https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/api.php?action=feedcontributions&feedformat=atom&user=Andrew+Graham 2026-04-23T17:04:34Z User contributions MediaWiki 1.39.13 https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Category:Earth_building&diff=128331 2015-04-20T08:03:27Z

<p>Andrew Graham: </p> <hr /> <div>{{Breadcrumb|Housing and construction}}<br /> <br /> ==Introduction==<br /> 3 of 6 billion people on this planet live in earth homes.<br /> <br /> ==Consultation==<br /> Free expert consultation available with the following companies:<br /> <br /> Prototype Creation, Wiesbaden / germany [http://www.prototype-creation]<br /> <br /> ==Online Resources==<br /> * http://earth.sustainablesources.com/<br /> * See groundbreaking work of Gernot Minke - <br /> [http://www.asl.uni-kassel.de/~feb/wissenswertes/manual_engl.pdf]<br /> <br /> ==Conversation between Andrew and Brad earthboundbuilders.com ==<br /> earthboundbuilders.com<br /> <br /> This is a conversation I had with brad about the methods he uses to stabilise CEB's with lime.<br /> <br /> Andrew Graham<br /> 4/16/14<br /> <br /> to brad <br /> I just met James Slade who mentioned to me that you have had great success stabilising CEB's with high clay content using lime. Is there any material you have written on how to replicate the process? I am building in a very high rainfall area in northern Australia for myself, and if its possible for something to approach the stability of a 10% CEB brick I would be very interested in doing this instead.<br /> <br /> Thanks so much if you could point me in the right direction,<br /> <br /> Andrew Graham<br /> ----<br /> http://www.vimeo.com/houdinifx/showreel<br /> <br /> Brad King<br /> 4/16/14<br /> <br /> to me <br /> Hi Andrew,<br /> I m attaching a pic of the CEB project<br /> We are currently working on. The blocks were stabilized with +/- 12% type S lime (dry hydrate state). '<br /> <br /> Sent from my iPhone<br /> <br /> <br /> Brad King<br /> 4/16/14<br /> <br /> to me <br /> Sorry, I sent that last one accidentally. As I was saying...<br /> The percentage of lime needed to effectively stabilize a clay rich subsoil varies dramatically dependent on several characteristics of the soils makeup. I am getting pretty familiar with my local region's subsoils and it is clear that even samples from different locations or depths on the same site can have different reactions to the highly alkali electrolytic solution that lime and water create. When you throw the high pressure/low OMC treatment of hydraulic compression into the mix things get even hazier. The best thing to do is make lots of test samples of varying percentage stabilized blocks, cure them carefully, then subject them to some harsh treatment and document how they perform. Take the best and make another round of tests with minor tweaks both ways. It takes time but you will find a mix that works for you. The blocks in the photo have been getting hammered by Texas's severe temperature swings and record flood producing rains for eight months (several of them without a roof) with no sign of damage even to the surface integrity. A separate company made those blocks onsite for us to lay, we don't own a machine, but I have used Lime as a stabilizer in a variety of clay applications, not just CEB, and I feel it is well worth the extra hassle and yields far superior results when done carefully. Better thermal properties, better working properties, and much less vulnerable to water damage. If you are interested in the technical details of the chemical process I can send you a couple of good resources. I have heard of geo-engineering lab tests that can tell you how much lime is ideal for your clay by analyzing the pH levels, but I've never sought any thing like that out. <br /> Hope that helps, feel free to ask questions, I may be slow to respond but I enjoy hearing about other people's projects.<br /> <br /> <br /> Andrew Graham<br /> 4/18/14<br /> <br /> to Brad <br /> Thanks a lot brad, thats amazing that you could achieve that result. was there a pic I could see in the end? I'm definitely going to explore this. for my first structure I wont have much time to play around and experiment though so I'll run with a 10% cement brick for the first structure. I've realised from reading Gernot Minke's book building with earth that 30% clay would be undesirable with 10% cement, (too much clay) but haven't been able to figure out how much clay I should instead aim for.<br /> <br /> I heard also when you use the lime that you are supposed to spread it all out on the soil and mist it, but i've not found any detail on the process...<br /> <br /> This is a soil mixer I helped build the other day at Open Source Ecology. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GM3Obl3yWts<br /> At the moment we need to get more articulation in the tractor before we can use it properly though.<br /> <br /> Attachments area<br /> Preview YouTube video Open Source Ecology - Soil Mixer Build<br /> <br /> Open Source Ecology - Soil Mixer Build<br /> <br /> Brad King<br /> 4/18/14<br /> <br /> to me <br /> image.jpeg<br /> <br /> image.jpeg<br /> image.jpeg<br /> <br /> <br /> We will be going back to do the interior clay plasters mid May. what you see in the pics is the exposed lime-stabilized compressed earth blocks. They even did great without a roof for a few months of abuse. They did have a cap, a concrete bond beam up top, but the only wear is a slight recession of the unstabilized clay slip/mortar we used to lay them. I have some Portland cement stabilized blocks approximately the same age stacked in my yard and they are essentially destroyed now. Just slowly broke themselves apart in wetting/drying cycles.<br /> This is a simplification and I'm no chemist, but heres one way to think of it. The Portland only binds the larger silt and sand particles together against the natural expansion and contraction of the clays and colloid fractions in the presence of water. Lime actually changes the chemical water dynamics between clay particles, causing them to clump together and behave more like dense packed sand. there is also a pozzalonic reaction that creates a weak cementitious binder, but with the high pressure/low moisture process of CEB presses, the slow induration of the lime and the afore mentioned clumping (on a very tiny scale) contribute more to keeping the clay from wanting to expand in the presence of water. <br /> <br /> Brad<br /> <br /> Sent from my iPhone<br /> <br /> <br /> Andrew Graham<br /> 7/5/14<br /> <br /> to Brad <br /> Hey Brad,<br /> <br /> I recall James saying that you would spread all your soil out, and cover it in lime, wet it and then press the bricks with it or some such thing... have you written up any method on how this is done? I haven't seen this before but I'm very keen to experiment when I start building in less than a year!<br /> <br /> <br /> Brad King<br /> 7/6/14<br /> <br /> to me <br /> The layered ground technique you mentioned is traditional in mixing adobe and would work as long as you are sure to mix the soil and lime into a completely homogenous state. Because the moisture level required for CEB production is so low, it is even more important that the lime be VERY well distributed. I have never seen this done well enough without mechanical mixers, but there is no theoretical reason, besides efficiency of course, that it couldn't be done by hand in small batches. The moisture is best added as you mix because again it too must be very well distributed. A stone rake and a lot of patience might work. You will have to do a fair amount of experimenting to dial in the h2o/batch and it will change slightly with local humidity/temperature conditions. I guess I have seen folks mix the lime (and in this case sharp fine sand as well) into the soil using a skid steer, but it didn't look thorough or efficient enough for automated machine block pressing. I actually think small batches in a large cement mixer would be faster than doing it in large batches on the ground with a skid steer, although that would mean a lot more shoveling material.<br /> Hope this helps simehow,<br /> Brad<br /> &gt; &lt;image.jpeg&gt;<br /> &gt; &lt;image.jpeg&gt;<br /> &gt; &lt;image.jpeg&gt;<br /> <br /> Andrew Graham<br /> 7/6/14<br /> <br /> to Brad <br /> Thanks Brad, so do you after its mixed well, and you add the water, do<br /> you press immediately after this point? Or do you wait a bit?<br /> <br /> <br /> Brad King<br /> 7/6/14<br /> <br /> to me <br /> My understanding of the chemistry involved would lead me to believe that with a lime stabilizer, letting it sit damp and well mixed for a few hours would theoretically be advantageous. In practice I have never seen this done with any real intension to control the timing. The only block producer we have worked with professionally mixes it mechanically then simply mists it on its way into the block press hopper. The quality of the blocks he produced using lime and this technique were excellent, but as I mentioned earlier every subsoil is different and not all clays and silts react to lime the same way.<br /> <br /> <br /> Andrew Graham<br /> 7/8/14<br /> <br /> to Brad <br /> Thanks Brad,<br /> <br /> I do find it interesting because I would think that if the lime set<br /> before compression, then maybe this wouldn't be as good if it set<br /> after compression. if it happenned before i would have though it<br /> would break the bonds when it gets compressed.<br /> <br /> <br /> Brad King<br /> 7/9/14<br /> <br /> to me <br /> Lime has no initial chemical set, at least not in the sense that most binders do. The &quot;set aside&quot; time has to do with cation exchange in the clay and colloid fraction of the subsoil. It gives the clay mecelles time to aggregate into less plastic clumps before compression, microscopic still, but with less interstitial space btw particles.<br /> I'm no chemist but I know enough to know that most owner builders are not going to reach a full understanding of the chemistry involved in lime stabilization of clayey subsoils. Even as a professional who works with Lime, it isn't worth the time required to fully grasp the details. If you are interested I would suggest finding a geotechnical engineer, they should be familiar with the chemistry as it is common to use lime as a clay stabilizer in road construction.<br /> The chemical induration that turns calcium hydroxide into calcium carbonate through absorption of atmospheric carbon dioxide is what gives lime it's traditional binding characteristics. This is a very slow process, and must be done in tge presence of moisture, hence the need to cure lime stabilized earth blocks under tightly wrapped plastic for a month before laying them.</div>

Andrew Graham https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Category:Earth_building&diff=128330 2015-04-20T07:59:26Z

<p>Andrew Graham: </p> <hr /> <div>{{Breadcrumb|Housing and construction}}<br /> <br /> ==Introduction==<br /> 3 of 6 billion people on this planet live in earth homes.<br /> <br /> ==Consultation==<br /> Free expert consultation available with the following companies:<br /> <br /> Prototype Creation, Wiesbaden / germany [http://www.prototype-creation]<br /> <br /> ==Online Resources==<br /> * http://earth.sustainablesources.com/<br /> * See groundbreaking work of Gernot Minke - <br /> [http://www.asl.uni-kassel.de/~feb/wissenswertes/manual_engl.pdf]<br /> <br /> ==Conversation between Andrew and Brad earthboundbuilders.com ==<br /> earthboundbuilders.com<br /> <br /> Andrew Graham<br /> 4/16/14<br /> <br /> to brad <br /> I just met James Slade who mentioned to me that you have had great success stabilising CEB's with high clay content using lime. Is there any material you have written on how to replicate the process? I am building in a very high rainfall area in northern Australia for myself, and if its possible for something to approach the stability of a 10% CEB brick I would be very interested in doing this instead.<br /> <br /> Thanks so much if you could point me in the right direction,<br /> <br /> Andrew Graham<br /> ----<br /> http://www.vimeo.com/houdinifx/showreel<br /> <br /> Brad King<br /> 4/16/14<br /> <br /> to me <br /> Hi Andrew,<br /> I m attaching a pic of the CEB project<br /> We are currently working on. The blocks were stabilized with +/- 12% type S lime (dry hydrate state). '<br /> <br /> Sent from my iPhone<br /> <br /> <br /> Brad King<br /> 4/16/14<br /> <br /> to me <br /> Sorry, I sent that last one accidentally. As I was saying...<br /> The percentage of lime needed to effectively stabilize a clay rich subsoil varies dramatically dependent on several characteristics of the soils makeup. I am getting pretty familiar with my local region's subsoils and it is clear that even samples from different locations or depths on the same site can have different reactions to the highly alkali electrolytic solution that lime and water create. When you throw the high pressure/low OMC treatment of hydraulic compression into the mix things get even hazier. The best thing to do is make lots of test samples of varying percentage stabilized blocks, cure them carefully, then subject them to some harsh treatment and document how they perform. Take the best and make another round of tests with minor tweaks both ways. It takes time but you will find a mix that works for you. The blocks in the photo have been getting hammered by Texas's severe temperature swings and record flood producing rains for eight months (several of them without a roof) with no sign of damage even to the surface integrity. A separate company made those blocks onsite for us to lay, we don't own a machine, but I have used Lime as a stabilizer in a variety of clay applications, not just CEB, and I feel it is well worth the extra hassle and yields far superior results when done carefully. Better thermal properties, better working properties, and much less vulnerable to water damage. If you are interested in the technical details of the chemical process I can send you a couple of good resources. I have heard of geo-engineering lab tests that can tell you how much lime is ideal for your clay by analyzing the pH levels, but I've never sought any thing like that out. <br /> Hope that helps, feel free to ask questions, I may be slow to respond but I enjoy hearing about other people's projects.<br /> <br /> <br /> Andrew Graham<br /> 4/18/14<br /> <br /> to Brad <br /> Thanks a lot brad, thats amazing that you could achieve that result. was there a pic I could see in the end? I'm definitely going to explore this. for my first structure I wont have much time to play around and experiment though so I'll run with a 10% cement brick for the first structure. I've realised from reading Gernot Minke's book building with earth that 30% clay would be undesirable with 10% cement, (too much clay) but haven't been able to figure out how much clay I should instead aim for.<br /> <br /> I heard also when you use the lime that you are supposed to spread it all out on the soil and mist it, but i've not found any detail on the process...<br /> <br /> This is a soil mixer I helped build the other day at Open Source Ecology. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GM3Obl3yWts<br /> At the moment we need to get more articulation in the tractor before we can use it properly though.<br /> <br /> Attachments area<br /> Preview YouTube video Open Source Ecology - Soil Mixer Build<br /> <br /> Open Source Ecology - Soil Mixer Build<br /> <br /> Brad King<br /> 4/18/14<br /> <br /> to me <br /> image.jpeg<br /> <br /> image.jpeg<br /> image.jpeg<br /> <br /> <br /> We will be going back to do the interior clay plasters mid May. what you see in the pics is the exposed lime-stabilized compressed earth blocks. They even did great without a roof for a few months of abuse. They did have a cap, a concrete bond beam up top, but the only wear is a slight recession of the unstabilized clay slip/mortar we used to lay them. I have some Portland cement stabilized blocks approximately the same age stacked in my yard and they are essentially destroyed now. Just slowly broke themselves apart in wetting/drying cycles.<br /> This is a simplification and I'm no chemist, but heres one way to think of it. The Portland only binds the larger silt and sand particles together against the natural expansion and contraction of the clays and colloid fractions in the presence of water. Lime actually changes the chemical water dynamics between clay particles, causing them to clump together and behave more like dense packed sand. there is also a pozzalonic reaction that creates a weak cementitious binder, but with the high pressure/low moisture process of CEB presses, the slow induration of the lime and the afore mentioned clumping (on a very tiny scale) contribute more to keeping the clay from wanting to expand in the presence of water. <br /> My cell is (901) 647 0186. Give me a call if you want to talk about what y'all are up to and how earthen construction fits in. I found it fascinating when I first helped Bunny, but haven't stayed abreast of the progress. <br /> Brad<br /> <br /> Sent from my iPhone<br /> <br /> <br /> Andrew Graham<br /> 7/5/14<br /> <br /> to Brad <br /> Hey Brad,<br /> <br /> I recall James saying that you would spread all your soil out, and cover it in lime, wet it and then press the bricks with it or some such thing... have you written up any method on how this is done? I haven't seen this before but I'm very keen to experiment when I start building in less than a year!<br /> <br /> <br /> Brad King<br /> 7/6/14<br /> <br /> to me <br /> The layered ground technique you mentioned is traditional in mixing adobe and would work as long as you are sure to mix the soil and lime into a completely homogenous state. Because the moisture level required for CEB production is so low, it is even more important that the lime be VERY well distributed. I have never seen this done well enough without mechanical mixers, but there is no theoretical reason, besides efficiency of course, that it couldn't be done by hand in small batches. The moisture is best added as you mix because again it too must be very well distributed. A stone rake and a lot of patience might work. You will have to do a fair amount of experimenting to dial in the h2o/batch and it will change slightly with local humidity/temperature conditions. I guess I have seen folks mix the lime (and in this case sharp fine sand as well) into the soil using a skid steer, but it didn't look thorough or efficient enough for automated machine block pressing. I actually think small batches in a large cement mixer would be faster than doing it in large batches on the ground with a skid steer, although that would mean a lot more shoveling material.<br /> Hope this helps simehow,<br /> Brad<br /> &gt; &lt;image.jpeg&gt;<br /> &gt; &lt;image.jpeg&gt;<br /> &gt; &lt;image.jpeg&gt;<br /> <br /> Andrew Graham<br /> 7/6/14<br /> <br /> to Brad <br /> Thanks Brad, so do you after its mixed well, and you add the water, do<br /> you press immediately after this point? Or do you wait a bit?<br /> <br /> <br /> Brad King<br /> 7/6/14<br /> <br /> to me <br /> My understanding of the chemistry involved would lead me to believe that with a lime stabilizer, letting it sit damp and well mixed for a few hours would theoretically be advantageous. In practice I have never seen this done with any real intension to control the timing. The only block producer we have worked with professionally mixes it mechanically then simply mists it on its way into the block press hopper. The quality of the blocks he produced using lime and this technique were excellent, but as I mentioned earlier every subsoil is different and not all clays and silts react to lime the same way.<br /> <br /> <br /> Andrew Graham<br /> 7/8/14<br /> <br /> to Brad <br /> Thanks Brad,<br /> <br /> I do find it interesting because I would think that if the lime set<br /> before compression, then maybe this wouldn't be as good if it set<br /> after compression. if it happenned before i would have though it<br /> would break the bonds when it gets compressed.<br /> <br /> <br /> Brad King<br /> 7/9/14<br /> <br /> to me <br /> Lime has no initial chemical set, at least not in the sense that most binders do. The &quot;set aside&quot; time has to do with cation exchange in the clay and colloid fraction of the subsoil. It gives the clay mecelles time to aggregate into less plastic clumps before compression, microscopic still, but with less interstitial space btw particles.<br /> I'm no chemist but I know enough to know that most owner builders are not going to reach a full understanding of the chemistry involved in lime stabilization of clayey subsoils. Even as a professional who works with Lime, it isn't worth the time required to fully grasp the details. If you are interested I would suggest finding a geotechnical engineer, they should be familiar with the chemistry as it is common to use lime as a clay stabilizer in road construction.<br /> The chemical induration that turns calcium hydroxide into calcium carbonate through absorption of atmospheric carbon dioxide is what gives lime it's traditional binding characteristics. This is a very slow process, and must be done in tge presence of moisture, hence the need to cure lime stabilized earth blocks under tightly wrapped plastic for a month before laying them.</div>

Andrew Graham https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Andrew_Graham_Log&diff=127589 2015-03-31T03:50:48Z

<p>Andrew Graham: </p> <hr /> <div>=Log - New Location=<br /> My log is now located here-<br /> https://docs.google.com/document/d/1yknC_iy4-caEIICCQkCogXY-DHEdrieYgp-8NZnB1RA/pub<br /> <br /> =Ideas to implement=<br /> * Create a sketchup for OSE video to show how to draw with the right accuracy, increase circle segments, use hiding, snapping etc, arcs to measure etc. also how to post the final result using the dozuki cad template<br /> * it may be possible to layout 3D objects from sketchup in free cad to be flat. it could be done dynamically using python script. this would give a proper procedural workflow for dimensioning. doing it manually isn't feasible because adjustments to sketchup files are asking for trouble. When it comes to the cam process you have to do it all over again to ensure you aren't maintaining any old incorrect parts.<br /> http://www.freecadweb.org/wiki/index.php?title=Python_scripting_tutorial<br /> * Build a workflow in Houdini to dynamically build a dxf with dimensioning and instructions for fabrication<br /> * Build a procedural animation tool to follow a spreadsheet for construction order. The result from houdini would be an open GL animation of the build of the model.<br /> * Improve wiki usability with suggested extension by Kunda<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/User_talk:Andrew_Graham<br /> <br /> =To do list=<br /> * look at stucco sprayer<br /> * get dish detergent<br /> * empty ash container.<br /> * hot water flow threshold to turn on is too high. kitchen tap needs to be turned on full for it to work.<br /> * rodent problem -thorough clean of kitchen and seal food away.<br /> * Make a sign to make sure people don't burn treated pine in the fire.<br /> <br /> timezones seem incorrect?<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/File:Soil_Pulverizer.skp<br /> <br /> =28th April, 2014=<br /> http://stackoverflow.com/questions/15461170/upload-an-image-to-a-google-spreadsheet/15474002#15474002<br /> It's possible to upload images with a form script, and forms can be edited offline with chrome. You just need to click more on the left column in drive, and click offline.<br /> <br /> this would be a great procedure for collecting information and mailing it out automatically to everyone with every entry. we would always be in sync with every entry learned. like the borg! but more awesome.<br /> <br /> =27th April, 2014=<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/CEB_Press_6_-_Frame_Module_-_Build_Instructions<br /> <br /> Build process for frame-<br /> *instead of finishing the welds for the vertical supports, it would be better to just tack each seam it in 4-6 spots and then bolt it all together.<br /> *The bolts should be on the interior so that the seams can be welded/finished.<br /> *all the other parts can be finished seperately.<br /> *the tolerance for accuracy on how important a 90 degree angle is on any part, and any spots that need to be ground out should be marked.<br /> <br /> We had a problem in the morning wasting time on a new methos to obtain greater accuracy with levels but we wasted hours on that and couldn't get it going. once we ditched that method and realised we could finish the welds after its bolted we had great velocity. but the momentumdidn't really happen until 2pm.<br /> <br /> =26th April, 2014=<br /> Setup links for all the modules. people need to embed these links into each module build time data page.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/CEB_Press_6_-_Overall_Machine_-_Build_Time_Data<br /> <br /> =25th April, 2014=<br /> created process layout for CEB press<br /> &lt;html&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://docs.google.com/drawings/d/1J3Izbcv5fDy2ITCB9SckSXit6GPZPrTc04xX8Yzs2Fs/pub?w=1651&amp;amp;h=305&quot;&gt;&lt;/html&gt;<br /> https://docs.google.com/drawings/d/1J3Izbcv5fDy2ITCB9SckSXit6GPZPrTc04xX8Yzs2Fs/edit<br /> <br /> =19th April, 2014=<br /> [http://www.xnview.com/en/xnconvert/#downloads xnview] is a must have for all dozuki users<br /> [File:Batch_resize_for_dozuki.xbs]<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/w/images/5/56/Batch_resize_for_dozuki.xbs<br /> <br /> It will resize an entire folder of images and can give a black border to put it in the right ratio for dozuki. It also helps when lots of users are trying to upload at once.<br /> <br /> Microhouse-<br /> because of variation in the concrete foundation, they were re measured on each side and checked against floor modules to see there are no surprises when they slot in.<br /> <br /> because of variation in birck szie we need half bricks to correct as early as possible to prevent parallel lines in the stacks occuring, i suggest that when the CEB press is in auto mode that because the other buttons on the interface are not useful in this state we use them for this - pressing one of these buttons can go to a half size brick mode, and another can go to a third size brick mode. this prevents slow down by getting someone to manually vary the pots when required. we just do a few of these varitions and revert back to normal funcitonality.<br /> <br /> =11th April, 2014=<br /> jar soil test<br /> http://www.ext.colostate.edu/mg/gardennotes/214.html<br /> <br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Bunk_Bed<br /> updated bunk bed sketchup and bom<br /> <br /> <br /> =10th April, 2014=<br /> We finished most of the bucket, all that needs to be done is weld the quick attach plates on the sides after the tractor loads it up.<br /> <br /> We lost a lot of time due to the shaft not being flat all the way across. its important to append this into the instrucitons. we should also note that tynes need to be drilled and then ground out flat, probably best to do it prior to welding the flats on.<br /> also brushing the shaft for a very easy fit for the bearings before fitting anything is an important thing to note for the build.<br /> <br /> we discussed making abox for the gopro hero3.<br /> <br /> the box that comes with it would be fine to just drill a hole in and use the usb cord to extend into a powergorilla or powermonkey. there are a lot of cheaper duplicates around but these are designed to be more ruggedised and have good multi voltage outputs.<br /> this one maybe overkill, but i find it has saved my bacon a number of times. if i forget to charge it its ok, I can run my gopro for maybe 3 days at least before charging again.<br /> https://www.powertraveller.com/en/shop/portable-chargers/professional/powergorilla/<br /> <br /> also the mini or the powermonkey extreme 12v would be adequate for all day timelapse<br /> https://www.powertraveller.com/en/shop/portable-chargers/professional/<br /> <br /> there is also a 3d printed box we could makle from here<br /> https://www.youmagine.com/designs/gopro-hero-3-box<br /> <br /> =9th April, 2014=<br /> need to adjust the build process for tynes. without a flat face, even working with gravity spatter on the nut is a big problem. a more robust process is to drill a hole, then use a grinder/cutter to flatten the area. this means there is no gap where the welds takes place on the nut and using this method they stayed more free<br /> <br /> =8th April, 2014=<br /> Had a very productive build day yesterday on the soil mixer. Things of note were-<br /> Putting the lid on was a bit of a challenge. We had to oxy cut the lid down a little more. we also realised that using clamp on the bottom to rest the lid on was usefull. it was to help get the lid in position with all the other welds for the hinges that need to take place.<br /> I made a mistake by welding the Hinge struts for the cylinder as part of the outside hinges on the lid. the parts look very similar, just a little shorter. it would help if we cut a bit of a different shape in the cad for easy identification. also to make sure everything is numbered.<br /> Putting on the hinges was easier than I thought. You can actually just use clamps or bolt and nuts for each part, keeping them at the 90 degree angle as in the design. Then position them in place getting everything square and tac away. This is all synced up in Trovebox and will be added to the documentation.<br /> <br /> <br /> =5th April, 2014=<br /> one guy got a bond with PLA on his 3d printer directly onto copper at 130C. that means if it works, and im sure it could, we could buy copper sheets directly at the weight price, and print the plastic layer on the back. print the layer on the other side as a resist layer and etch away. this has some potential.<br /> http://hydraraptor.blogspot.com/2010/04/cu-pla.html<br /> <br /> Here is a concept for a self aligning QA Lip<br /> <br /> [[Image:Self Aligning QA Mount.jpg|600px]]<br /> <br /> this can be improved by inverting the wedge and having it internally.<br /> <br /> =4th April, 2014=<br /> Fixed the construction order of the bucket on the dozuki and updated the tines production process to reflect what is happening now.<br /> <br /> Had lots of problems with the wire feeder on the welder today when trying to finish the QA Lip. but we got a lot more done towards the end of the day getting most of the bucket and lip tacked in place. almost ready to start putting on the lid once those welds are finished.<br /> <br /> <br /> =2nd April, 2014=<br /> <br /> today I cut up the larger pieces of stock on the iron worker. but we had a bit of a blocker and that was 2 big pieces that need to be cut with a torch. so we couldn't continue on the main bucket apart form the side walls, but we were busy all day anyway cutting up all the other necessary parts from stock, tubing, and tacking half the teeth.<br /> <br /> I thought this was a good read<br /> <br /> http://www.thefabricator.com/article/arcwelding/22-possible-causes-of-weld-metal-porosity<br /> and this -<br /> http://www.daihen-usa.com/techtips.php<br /> <br /> The first article says porosity is necessarily a deal breaker unless its really bad or a structural requirement<br /> <br /> I learnt to day that having the angle of the tool right made a big difference at about 15 degrees off perpendicular. paint was also causing major problems, so after an initial tack i went grinding along all the seams, welded again and ground out the old bad tacks. <br /> <br /> I know Marcin didn't want us to use the grinder, but it became a necessity with the paint on the rebar that needed to be removed along the seams. I used to grind out heaps of hot water systems I used to find for scrap copper thought so i felt comfortable doing it and it was perfectly safe, I used the small grinder which I'm used to.<br /> <br /> I learnt that when tacking, if it peels a piece back in the other direction after shrinkage, that its better to tack less, just a tiny dot, so that its more malleable. then you can tack the other side more easily without breaking it and then finish with some more solid tacks.<br /> <br /> <br /> =1st April, 2014=<br /> Relocated lots of stuff in the workshop and did some cleanup. Learnt how to weld with Marcin.<br /> <br /> =31st March, 2014=<br /> Upload in progress for a you tube video showing how to produce diagrams in sketchup using scenes for dozuki.<br /> <br /> Finished the dozuki for the Soil Mixer.<br /> <br /> Found an interesting resource on hardening steel<br /> http://www.roymech.co.uk/Useful_Tables/Matter/Hardening.html<br /> <br /> =29th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> Happy birthday to me!<br /> <br /> This shows 3 channel capacitive sensing with an arduino.<br /> http://playground.arduino.cc/Main/CapacitiveSensor?from=Main.CapSense#.UzeQ0dzgg8M<br /> <br /> one thing i wonder about is interference with other objects and people around the table though. when the sense gets near the edges, this could change. i wonder if its being used for this purpose in the real world now how they deal with this issue - if it is an issue that is.<br /> <br /> if the sensor is closer to the plate, with a lower value resistor being used, then this could limit interference.<br /> <br /> using a ring or toroid will have increased sensitivity in the axis perpendicular to the ring. this is because the delta in the field is greater in this axis. good idea!<br /> http://www.agelkom.com.tr/prod02.htm<br /> <br /> you can vary pwm as cutting height is approached to get finer control and slower z speed.<br /> http://www.agelkom.com.tr/cap04_pwm_function.htm<br /> <br /> note aluminium case for shielding of circuit.<br /> http://www.cnc4pc.com/Store/osc/product_info.php?products_id=339?osCsid=9cb438690de2f645e1a951bef1ba4df8<br /> <br /> looking at the material and justins log, i like the idea of using the adafruit ultrasonic range sensor. I drew an idea for some reflector geometry to let us measure a disc pattern instead of a narrow beam.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Ultrasound_Torch_Height_Controller<br /> <br /> its clear that a capacitive solution will require totally different operation when going to a plasma cutter instead of oxy. infact, the capacitive sensor isn't even used - rather the voltage is measured between the torch and table to control height.<br /> <br /> that means two different technologies to achieve the same thing, because you need the capacitive measurement when the torch is off for the initial height.<br /> <br /> i think ultrasonic may be the way to go because it wont be affected by the two different modes of cutting. it could be cheaper, and simpler to maintain.<br /> <br /> you also need to consider height reduction after the cut commences. you could feed an isolated voltage/current measurment to tell the controlled when to drop the torch head.<br /> <br /> shielded cables are a must- some good stuff here, actually a noise reduction bible-<br /> http://www.cnccookbook.com/CCCNCNoise.html<br /> <br /> also<br /> http://www.randyray.com/tmc/rf_shielding.htm<br /> <br /> =28th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> [https://docs.google.com/drawings/d/1IMUu0otp7BRCflIRYKZ1JqR3lF3VF8OBjkPQXPQbV3A/edit created Parallel workflow diagram.] Google draw sucks though. Doesn't know how to filter images for different sizes.<br /> <br /> [http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Build_Instructions embedded this drawing into the build instructions page]<br /> <br /> Added the hinge mechanism and lid build to the dozuki for the soil mixer.<br /> <br /> =27th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> Created bunk bed design. 2 bracket pathways we need to decide on.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Bunk_Bed<br /> <br /> bunk bed specs<br /> 5'2&quot; top level for matress<br /> 1'2&quot; bottom level for matress<br /> 6'4&quot; max height<br /> <br /> moved copy from http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Fabrication_Drawings to http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Build_Instructions<br /> <br /> Setup build instructions for bucket on dozuki<br /> http://opensourceecology.dozuki.com/Guide/Installing+Soil+Mixer+-+Module+-+Bucket+The+soil+pulverizer+bucket/126?revisionid=HEAD<br /> <br /> brief discussion of using internet lines as one connection.<br /> if your going to be paying for 2 internet connections it would be good to load balance them both from one location and distribute it out from there. this would solve the problem of having large numbers of people, and since you are already paying for the second line it makes sense to do it. currently with just 10 users, 50kbit/s up is not going to cut it.<br /> <br /> running ethernet up to the micro house could be done with a switch no more than every 100 meters to boost the signal. if power is an issue power over ethernet could be used also, mentioned in this thread<br /> http://forums.whirlpool.net.au/archive/1164805<br /> <br /> so onto using two connections as one-<br /> <br /> Load balancing is easier than bonding.<br /> <br /> Bonding will double web speed for a single user with 2 internet connections. however this is unnecessary.<br /> <br /> Load balancing will not give you a maximum of 2x the speed for a single, but it will distribute traffic to each of the connections on demand if done correctly. In the real world this means with large numbers of users the web will perform just as well as in bonding. You need to make sure that with 2 connections going in that the load balancing won't just act as a failsafe - switch over to different internet connection if one fails. you want both connections to be used.<br /> <br /> http://www.increasebroadbandspeed.co.uk/what-is-adsl-load-balancing<br /> <br /> if you have a wrt54gl router this might be a good start to figuring this out.<br /> <br /> to achieve this your going to need to position those 2 adsl modems in the same location, before the load balancing hardware - router.<br /> <br /> The ISP doesn't have to know about it if you want to load balance yourself. I believe it can be done without them<br /> <br /> this guy did it with that router-<br /> http://forum.kitz.co.uk/index.php?topic=12308.msg232604#msg232604<br /> <br /> =26th March, 2014=<br /> * Measured out boards for the side rooms.<br /> * Did file format tests import into houdini.<br /> * Spoke to randy on the phone and cuts are ready for pickup. http://www.seamanschuske.com/Seaman_and_Schuske/Welcome.html<br /> <br /> It will now be possible to create a large chunk of the workflow in sketchup for documentation and build procedure. From a base model we can have in the same file procedural references for everything including<br /> *CAD layout for DXF export to CNC.<br /> *exploded view as animation<br /> *fabrication procedure as animation.<br /> *fabrication procedure frames for print manual and dozuki.<br /> <br /> what this means if the base model needs updates, all these dependencies will update too. problems are the plugin is unstable in 2014. it crashes when setting or getting states, using scenes, and also exporting .mp4 doesn't work.<br /> <br /> plan for sketchup video<br /> show dropbox sharing. show scenes, layers groups. show circles and tricks with CAD. show dxf conversion tricks and laying out in sketchup.<br /> <br /> * good sketchup video on scenes<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qEYmiKh-sqs<br /> * groups and components - make sure you know when to use which, or your file will get slow quickly.<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7V_KbxXVt0I<br /> * layers<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fBdP499iw0Y<br /> *speed enhancements<br /> https://sites.google.com/site/sketchupsage/faster<br /> <br /> *dynamic components - pro only<br /> http://help.sketchup.com/en/article/94885<br /> <br /> *plugins<br /> http://sketchucation.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=10&amp;t=36583&amp;p=322249&amp;hilit=+add+hidden+layer+#p322249<br /> <br /> Thinks like the tunes on the rototiller, or grid beam should be designated in sketchup as dynamic components. building them in other software throws away the procedural abitiy of other software, or adding complexity to do it through other plugins to enable software like freecad or open scad.<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;html&gt;&lt;script type=&quot;text/javascript&quot;<br /> data-dozuki-embed='3'<br /> src=&quot;http://d1luk0418egahw.cloudfront.net/static/embed/ifixit-embed.3.js#id=130&amp;site=opensourceecology.dozuki.com&quot;&gt;<br /> &lt;/script&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://opensourceecology.dozuki.com/Guide/Installing+Soil+Mixer+-+Module+-+Toothbar+Teeth/130&quot;&gt;Installing Soil Mixer - Module - Toothbar Teeth&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/html&gt;<br /> <br /> =25th March, 2014=<br /> *updated fabrication procedure text for marcin to review. updated exploded parts diagram and CAM layout numbering. <br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Fabrication_Drawings<br /> *added washers into sketchup file<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_3D_CAD<br /> <br /> *fixed p29 length in cam files to accomodate washers in the hinges<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_CAM<br /> <br /> *Updated cam files protocol<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/CAM_Files_Protocol#Other_Resources<br /> <br /> Note: A lot of time seems to be lost when design changes are made and dependent files on the sketchup such as the dxf, images on the wiki, and wiki uploads to keep everything current need to take place. potentially a more desirable solution would be to have the ability to synchronize all these changes at once.<br /> <br /> =24th March, 2014=<br /> [http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_CAM Updated DXF to send to seaman schuske - Randy Clinton]<br /> *increased the diameter by 1/16th on all the holes except the quick attach mount, and the 3 ground plates because they are already oversized to .625&quot;<br /> <br /> [http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_3D_CAD Updated 3D CAD Sketchup file for exploded diagram and DXF generation]<br /> <br /> <br /> [http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Exploded_Parts_Diagram Updated exploded parts diagram]<br /> <br /> *Updated fabrication diagram text.<br /> <br /> =21th March, 2014=<br /> *Updated exploded view and part numbering.<br /> [[Image:ExplodedView.jpg|400px]]<br /> <br /> *Updated CAM and CAD. Removed extra lines from CAM. fixed radius on motor holes, removed extra motor holes for bolt.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_3D_CAD<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_CAM<br /> <br /> *Added 2nd coat of lime wash to second last room.<br /> *Anthony added first coat of lime wash to last room.<br /> <br /> =20th March, 2014=<br /> *bearing spec for bolt holes is incorrect - should be .625 - http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/File:Bearing178.jpg<br /> *needed to add 4 extra holes into the sidewall<br /> *tested internet, and its not going to be fast enough for a large group of people. good for a few people, up to 4 maybe.<br /> *[http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Exploded_Parts_Diagram Added exploded parts diagram]<br /> *Rubbed out walls in last 2 east rooms. Moved the big glass sheets into the silo. Prepped whitewash and applied into the second last room.<br /> <br /> =19th March, 2014=<br /> *fixed a wheelbarrow axel by replacing the pin and putting 3 large washers on there. After pumping up the tires it'll be good as new.<br /> *mixxed approx 5 shovels of sand to 4-5 shovels of very clayey soil to plaster the window and door on the outside room. this took a lot longer than anticipated to do the job well. plastering on top of the window and door frame required almost 100% clay just to stick, I'm wondering if it will crack but it was the only way it would stick on there even with the wire mesh.<br /> *used sprayer and a damp cloth to smooth out the walls to prep for limewash<br /> *Added suggested ratio to lime wash and plaster ratio suggestion.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Lime_Plaster_and_Wash#BoM<br /> *[http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasertoc.htm came across a sweet link from anthony to make your own laser - laser sam]<br /> <br /> =18th March, 2014=<br /> Uploaded timelapse videos<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kMBSe5V7M8E<br /> <br /> Updated sketchup file to reposition the holes for the mounts. some inaccuracies were present in the components attaching to the shaft.<br /> <br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_3D_CAD<br /> <br /> sketchup note: when creating circles, you must go to window, entity info, chad change the segments from 24 to 48. most circles look like ploys other wise and this will follow through to the machine file.<br /> <br /> Moved everything from the outer rooms into office and silo. took a while because there was a lot of sorting. some things needed to be inside. <br /> <br /> applied lime wash to a wall in the middle room. tomorrow need to smooth out the rendering with a rag. also staple chicken air and get sand from micro house.<br /> <br /> tommorrow - fix sheets and dimensions. get a quote from Justin Fuston<br /> https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0ArpE5Y9PpJCXdGpUZ3dqYWw3czQzZ09IUHFpRl9VT1E#gid=0<br /> <br /> =17th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> Updated CAD. Chamfered corners, removed excess hinge parts, rotated struts 90 degrees. added gussets, but now they may not be necessary with the struts at 90 degrees. easy to remove. stacking of the hinge components around the hydraulic mechanism has been changed for better strength and ease of construction.<br /> <br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_3D_CAD<br /> <br /> This has been fixed. see video! you just need to clear the prefs.<br /> &lt;strike&gt;I also submitted a complaint to google, sketch up 2014 eliminated features in the free version of 2013 so that you have to pay for them. It's no longer possible to export to 3DS and most other pro formats now.&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> <br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A9TdFNZwLtc&amp;feature=em-upload_owner<br /> <br /> &lt;html&gt;<br /> &lt;iframe width=&quot;560&quot; height=&quot;315&quot; src=&quot;//www.youtube.com/embed/A9TdFNZwLtc&quot; frameborder=&quot;0&quot; allowfullscreen&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;<br /> &lt;/html&gt;<br /> <br /> Microhouse-<br /> - Painted walls with white.<br /> <br /> - Moved weights into the silo.<br /> <br /> - prepped lime in 1 to one in the white container.<br /> <br /> =16th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> Added dhal to recipes-<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Recipes<br /> <br /> Fixed vacuum cleaner.<br /> <br /> Setup DIY mouse trap design to drown rodents.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Mouse_trap<br /> <br /> =15th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> Recipe for Dahl. For 8 people.<br /> Awesome vegetarian power food high in protein.<br /> <br /> 4 onions.<br /> <br /> half a bulb of garlic<br /> <br /> 1.5kg lentils or split peas, soaked for as long as you can during the day, overnight if possible. if not, it will just take longer to cook but it works out fine. rinse them thoroughly!<br /> <br /> Coconut oil<br /> <br /> teaspoon whole cumin seeds<br /> <br /> cumin powder<br /> <br /> garam masala<br /> <br /> salt<br /> <br /> pepper<br /> <br /> chilli or cayenne pepper<br /> <br /> turmeric<br /> <br /> sour cream and cilantro for garnish.<br /> <br /> heat the oil and keep an eye on it so it doesn't smoke.<br /> fry the cumin seeds for a bit then add the onions and garlic on high. when the onions are clear to brown colour add 1/2 teaspoons of the rest of the spices and the lentils. add water to the pot until the lentils are just covered.<br /> keep on high heat until it starts to boil, then simmer until the lentils are soft/falling apart. this usually takes an hour.<br /> add to bowls and garnish with the cilantro and sour cream!<br /> <br /> <br /> -------<br /> <br /> <br /> Added large grain sand and clay mix to top right corner of hablab. when dried we added mist and then lime wash. it may need another layer.<br /> <br /> Painted the outside door frames yellow.<br /> <br /> Modifications added to http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Review<br /> <br /> Current design revisions-<br /> <br /> 1. Long reinforcement on edge of lid - 1/4 x 2. Current reinforcement needs to be rotated 90 degrees.<br /> <br /> 2. Centre the cylinder mount, add an extra strut for symmetry.<br /> <br /> 3. gusset 1/2&quot; x 4&quot; triangle on the rod end mount<br /> <br /> 4. 45 degrees angle on outside hinge to lip mount.<br /> <br /> =14th March, 2014=<br /> tomatoe varieties for OSE - <br /> jetstart<br /> homestead,<br /> bhn 1021<br /> defiant phr<br /> <br /> setting out planting guide for kansas city<br /> http://www.almanac.com/gardening/planting-dates/zipcode/64151<br /> <br /> =13th March, 2014=<br /> Updated cad file and range of motion. Added hinges and correct thicknesses.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_3D_CAD<br /> <br /> [[Image:sketchupModel.png|400px]]<br /> <br /> Collaboration notes: setting up remote collaboration for the design process in solid works can be aided by a synchronized web folder to users local paths. drop box achieves this but has a size limit. we need software that can do that locally to a raid array with offsite backup. Eric Potash suggested aero fs https://www.aerofs.com<br /> We also have http://www.bittorrent.com/sync which looks very promising with redundancy and http://owncloud.org<br /> <br /> Lime wash<br /> <br /> Determined that the 4 parts lime/3 parts water then salt added (salt is 1/5th the lime amount by volume, not weight) is a good mix provided the surface is smooth. On a rough surface this mix is too thick. If the mix is too thick it can crack due to shrinkage after drying.<br /> For a rough surface, this mix instead works - 1 part lime / 1 part water by volume, with salt being the same ratio as before - 1/5th the amount of lime by volume.<br /> It isn't necessary to mix the salt with more water prior to mixing with a drill in both these recipes. this was done on previous days to help mix more evenly, but these mixes are both watery enough to not worry about this.<br /> <br /> Pre misting the area before applying the lime wash prevents cracking significantly. This is done by lightly misting so the soil looks darkened and damp, but not soaking wet which affects the bond negatively. Waiting a while to see it dry a little (~30 seconds) and repeating this 4 or 5 times helps create a deeper bond into to adobe wall when the lime wash is applied.<br /> <br /> Hard synthetic brushes are ok to use only on smoothly rendered stucco, but on mud stucco these can be too abrasive and affect application. softer brushes like the thick ones we use from horse hair apply the mix really smoothly and work really well on both types of surfaces.<br /> <br /> [[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tgDarFYW7hk 4/3 mix failing in divots]]<br /> [[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QrqwRHOAA8s testing with spray]]<br /> <br /> For filling holes with earth plaster, Chris also added that they had success when mixing coarse grain sand with the clayey soil 3/1 and that there was no shrinkage problems when filling holes. they mixed it with their hands. they also sprayed the wall which helped.<br /> <br /> 3D Printer that Coulton fixed!<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MH_0sHNAd9w<br /> <br /> =12th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> *3D range of motion test for hydraulic cylinder.<br /> *http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Opening_Mechanism_Module_-_Calculations<br /> *http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/File:RangeOfMotion.png<br /> *http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Opening_Mechanism_Module_-_Bill_of_Materials<br /> *Hablab whitewash testing - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BiA1LRERXjU&amp;list=UU0Jra6oMPLejbnPr4bzxdpg<br /> <br /> Determined that thick 2 to 1 lime/water ratio is too thick and cracks in some areas. Prepping with misting the adobe layer before limewashing definitely reduces cracking.<br /> We are also testing two recipes for tomorrow. One that is 4/3 Lime/water. The other that is 1/1. We will test both of these to see which works better.<br /> <br /> <br /> =11th March, 2014=<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KjADHmrkFy4<br /> <br /> Tested different whitewash formula. it appeared that thick lime wash was less tolerant of some areas of the wall and was peeling back at some points after some time had passed. We applied a thin whitewash with the consistency of cream or milk at the end to different parts of the wall to see if we could avoid the peeling problem.<br /> <br /> Drew the clamshell mechanism and hinge in sketch up for the Soil Mixer.<br /> <br /> Screenshot<br /> [[Image:WIPsoild_mixer_and_lid.png|200px]]<br /> <br /> <br /> Sketchup in progress<br /> [[File:SoilPulverizerV1s001.skp]]<br /> <br /> =10th March, 2014=<br /> Timelapse of wall painting-<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o4bef_KFQts<br /> <br /> Helped sketch designs for soil mixer.<br /> <br /> Painted wall with Lauren and Cat. (timelapse video in progress)<br /> <br /> Cooked thai style fried rice for dinner.<br /> <br /> Commenced ideation for procedural animation of the GVCS in Houdini for documentation.<br /> <br /> =9th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> [[Soil Mixer Requirements]].<br /> <br /> Append design Rationale -<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_Construction_Set_Requirements<br /> <br /> Laid hay over the ground to stop mud being moved along the path.</div>

Andrew Graham https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Trencher&diff=119739 2014-05-29T10:42:09Z

<p>Andrew Graham: /* Videos */</p> <hr /> <div><br /> =Latest Work=<br /> *2013 Development page at Dozuki - http://opensourceecology.dozuki.com/c/Trencher_-_Modules<br /> *YouTube playlist - [http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL6Jpysxw3Ty86Cw4ee5DwMgHV8tqyny4R]<br /> *Images on Trovebox - [https://opensourceecology.trovebox.com/photos/album-n/list]<br /> *Test Video -<br /> &lt;html&gt;&lt;iframe width=&quot;560&quot; height=&quot;315&quot; src=&quot;//www.youtube.com/embed/3NJpTfjnvwA?list=PL6Jpysxw3Ty86Cw4ee5DwMgHV8tqyny4R&quot; frameborder=&quot;0&quot; allowfullscreen&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&lt;/html&gt;<br /> <br /> =2012, Prototype I=<br /> <br /> [[Image: trencherv1.jpg|500px]]<br /> <br /> [[Image: trencherbackv1.jpg|500px]]<br /> <br /> A trencher is a piece of construction equipment used to dig trenches, typically for laying pipes or cables, or for drainage. <br /> <br /> Think a chainsaw, but one that cuts into the earth.<br /> <br /> [[Image:Trencher.png|thumb|right|400px|Off-shelf Trencher]]<br /> [[Image:hydtrencher.jpg|thumb|right|400px|Hydraulic trencher design]]<br /> <br /> ==Prototype I==<br /> &lt;html&gt;&lt;iframe src=&quot;//player.vimeo.com/video/53787538&quot; width=&quot;500&quot; height=&quot;281&quot; frameborder=&quot;0&quot; webkitallowfullscreen mozallowfullscreen allowfullscreen&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt; &lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://vimeo.com/53787538&quot;&gt;Open Source Trencher.&lt;/a&gt; from &lt;a href=&quot;http://vimeo.com/opensourceecology&quot;&gt;Open Source Ecology&lt;/a&gt; on &lt;a href=&quot;https://vimeo.com&quot;&gt;Vimeo&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/html&gt;<br /> <br /> [[Trencher Prototype I]]<br /> <br /> ==Product Ecology==<br /> <br /> '''Created With'''<br /> *{{Furnace}} Steel<br /> *{{Torch Table}} Cutouts<br /> *{{Welder}}<br /> <br /> '''Used with'''<br /> *{{Tractor}} - Mounting<br /> <br /> '''Creates'''<br /> *Trenches<br /> <br /> [[Image:4b-Constructioneco.png|600px]]<br /> <br /> <br /> See [[Product Ecologies]] for more information.<br /> <br /> ==Components==<br /> <br /> *Motor<br /> *Blade<br /> *Teeth<br /> *Housing<br /> <br /> <br /> ==Status==<br /> The Trencher is currently in the [[Trencher/Research Development|Research Phase of Product Development]]<br /> <br /> See [[GVCS Rollout Plan]]<br /> <br /> See [[Trencher Log]]<br /> <br /> ==Videos==<br /> <br /> {{Video}}<br /> <br /> [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Ntj0YLrcng Example of a ripper with pipe laying attachment]<br /> <br /> ==See Also==<br /> *[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trencher_(machine) Wikipedia: Trencher]<br /> *[[Rubble Trench Foundation]]<br /> *[[Foundation]]<br /> <br /> {{GVCS Footer}}</div>

Andrew Graham https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Lithium_Iron_Phosphate_Battery&diff=119559 2014-05-16T18:00:48Z

<p>Andrew Graham: </p> <hr /> <div>http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lithium_iron_phosphate_battery<br /> <br /> http://zenid10.wordpress.com/2011/07/10/building-a-lifepo4-lithium-pack/<br /> <br /> http://www.thelondoner.ca/2014/03/07/making-a-better-battery</div>

Andrew Graham https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Lithium_Iron_Phosphate_Battery&diff=119558 2014-05-16T17:59:46Z

<p>Andrew Graham: </p> <hr /> <div>http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lithium_iron_phosphate_battery<br /> <br /> http://zenid10.wordpress.com/2011/07/10/building-a-lifepo4-lithium-pack/</div>

Andrew Graham https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Lithium_Iron_Phosphate_Battery&diff=119557 2014-05-16T17:50:17Z

<p>Andrew Graham: Created page with &quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lithium_iron_phosphate_battery&quot;</p> <hr /> <div>http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lithium_iron_phosphate_battery</div>

Andrew Graham https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Batteries&diff=119556 2014-05-16T17:50:05Z

<p>Andrew Graham: /* Batteries */</p> <hr /> <div>[http://www.amazon.com/Sanyo-eneloop-Pre-Charged-Rechargeable-Batteries/dp/B004SB1TD4/ref=sr_1_1?s=hpc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1342491179&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=aaa+battery 1500 Cycle AAA 8pce 800mAh NiMh Batteries]<br /> <br /> [http://www.amazon.com/Sanyo-eneloop-Pre-Charged-Rechargeable-Batteries/dp/B004UG41XW/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1342492112&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=eneloop+battery+AA 1500 Cycle AA 8pce 2000mAh NiMh Batteries]<br /> <br /> ==Overview==<br /> [[Image:Battery.png|thumb|400px|[[Battery]]]]<br /> Comparison of various [[Battery]] chemistries.<br /> <br /> ==Batteries==<br /> *[[Lithium Iron Phosphate Battery]]<br /> *[[Nickel-Iron Battery]]<br /> **[[Edison Battery]]<br /> *[[Lead Acid Battery]]<br /> *[[Aluminum-Air Battery]]<br /> *[[Zinc bromine battery]]<br /> *[[Other Batteries]]<br /> <br /> ==See Also==<br /> *[[Battery chemistry comparison]]<br /> *[[Electrical energy storage]]<br /> *[[Electricity]]<br /> *[[Battery]]<br /> *[[Battery Cost]]<br /> *[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Battery_(electricity) Wikipedia: Battery]<br /> <br /> [[Category:Battery]]</div>

Andrew Graham https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Nickel-Iron_Battery&diff=119543 2014-05-15T01:30:57Z

<p>Andrew Graham: </p> <hr /> <div>{{GVCS Header}}<br /> <br /> ==Overview==<br /> [[File:Nickel-Iron Batterypic.png|thumb|400px|Nickel Iron Battery]] <br /> <br /> The '''Nickel Iron Battery''' is the primary electrical energy storage device for the [[GVCS]].<br /> <br /> Advantages:<br /> *Long lifetime of 50 years<br /> *Open source design of electrodes<br /> *Cells scalable: from 1 to 50kW hrs<br /> *Nickel and iron obtained from scrap stream, reprocessed via [[Induction Furnace]]<br /> *Completely closed loop material cycle ecology<br /> <br /> {{Video}}<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K84PywMwjZg<br /> <br /> ==Detailed Description==<br /> <br /> The '''nickel-iron battery''' (NiFe battery) or &quot;edison cell&quot; is a storage battery having a nickel oxide-hydroxide cathode and an iron anode, with an electrolyte of potassium hydroxide (lye can be used as a substitute). <br /> <br /> The active materials are held in nickel-plated steel tubes or perforated pockets. <br /> <br /> It is a very robust battery which is tolerant of abuse, (overcharge, overdischarge, and short-circuiting) and can have very long life even if so treated.<br /> <br /> It is often used in backup situations where it can be continuously charged and can last for more than 20 years.<br /> <br /> '''Nickel-iron batteries''' have ~50 year lifetimes, compared to a few-year lifetime of lead acid batteries. They are environmentally more benign, and lend themselves to local recycling and fabrication. They can have higher discharge rates and faster charge times than lead-acid batteries depending on mechanical design of the electrodes etc, so they lend themselves not only to off-grid power, but also to power electronics applications such as welding and heavy workshop power. In China a company by the name of changhong batteries makes a version of them for use in automotive starter batteries. Their energy density is half that of lead-acid batteries, but their long lifetime and deep discharge ability makes them highly relevant to the [[GVCS]], including to electric farming equipment as the next generation of [[LifeTrac]] infrastructure. <br /> <br /> The [[Edison Battery]] was developed and promoted primarily by Thomas A Edison.<br /> <br /> ==Product Ecology==<br /> [[Image:Electricalpowereco.png|600px|thumb|[[Product Ecology]]]]<br /> <br /> {{Product Ecology<br /> <br /> |Product={{Battery}}<br /> <br /> |From=<br /> *{{3D Printer}} - Casing<br /> *[[Controller Box]] - Power<br /> *{{Rod and Wire Mill}} - Wires, Tubes<br /> <br /> |Creates=<br /> *[[Electricity]]<br /> <br /> |Uses=<br /> <br /> <br /> |Enables=<br /> *{{Universal Power Supply}} - Stores energy<br /> *[[Charge Controller]]<br /> *[[Inverter]]<br /> <br /> |Components=<br /> <br /> }}<br /> <br /> ==Components==<br /> ===Anode Compound===<br /> <br /> * iron plate - low carbon, mild steel (demo)<br /> * iron graphite compounded (Edison)<br /> * iron oxide<br /> **http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Iron(II,III)_oxide<br /> <br /> ===node Construction===<br /> <br /> * plain plate (demo)<br /> * pocket plate with mesh inserts (Edison)<br /> <br /> ===Cathode Compounds===<br /> <br /> * [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nickel%28III%29_oxide-hydroxide Nickel(III) oxide-hydroxide]<br /> :* [https://www.spectrumchemical.com/OA_HTML/chemical-products_NickelII-Chloride-Anhydrous-for-General-Organic-Chemistry_TCI-N0850.jsp?sitex=10020:22372:US&amp;section=25807 Nickel (II) chloride]<br /> :* [http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sodium_hypochlorite#section_3 bleach]<br /> * nickel hydrate and pure nickel flake (Edison)<br /> <br /> <br /> Nickel(II) carbonate [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nickel%28II%29_carbonate can be combined with water to form Nickel(II) oxide], which can be used in cells. It generates Carbon Dioxide when mixed with water, which may affect Potassium Hydroxide in solution. Mix with water and allow to complete outgassing and dry before building the cell.<br /> <br /> Nickel(III) hydroxide &quot;Nickel Oxide Black&quot; and Nickel(II) carbonate &quot;Green&quot; are used as clay/ceramic colorants and available cheaply from ceramic and pottery related websites ... and though the purity is considered lower, it is still usuable for experimentation at a much lower cost.<br /> <br /> ===Cathode Construction===<br /> <br /> * plain plate (demo)<br /> * pocket plate with mesh inserts (Edison)<br /> * generally nickel-plated rather than pure nickel<br /> <br /> * Nickel sponge<br /> * Sintered nickel powder<br /> * Nickel mesh/cloth<br /> <br /> ===Electrolyte===<br /> <br /> * aqueous potassium hydroxide<br /> :* [https://www.spectrumchemical.com/OA_HTML/chemical-products_Potassium-Hydroxide-Pellets-Reagent-ACS_P1315.jsp?sitex=10020:22372:US&amp;section=15947 link]<br /> :* Water (121g per 100ml)<br /> * sodium hydroxide (alternate, lower voltage)<br /> * lithium (modern additive)<br /> <br /> ===Cell Casing===<br /> <br /> * nickel-plated steel box, rubber seals (Edison)<br /> * plastic box (modern commercial)<br /> * glass jars (demo projects)<br /> * pvc cylinders (Ed's Workshop)<br /> <br /> ==Status==<br /> The '''Nickel-Iron Battery''' is currently in the [[Nickel-Iron_Battery/Research_Development|research phase of development]].<br /> <br /> ==See Also==<br /> * [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Battery_(electricity) Wikipedia: Battery]<br /> * [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nickel_iron_battery Wikipedia: Nickel Iron Battery]<br /> * [http://www.beutilityfree.com/content/index.php?option=com_content&amp;view=article&amp;id=44&amp;Itemid=129 Battery Lifetimes]<br /> <br /> ===Other Communities===<br /> <br /> http://offgrid2.altervista.org/viewforum.php?f=7<br /> <br /> {{GVCS Footer}}</div>

Andrew Graham https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Houdini&diff=119480 2014-05-12T19:55:01Z

<p>Andrew Graham: </p> <hr /> <div>From Andrew Graham:<br /> <br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gzEEnnrrpUU<br /> <br /> Houdini/animation scripting<br /> <br /> For the houdini part yes I can create a design problem statement-<br /> &quot;Create a procedural workflow that allows a finished model (from sketchup or freecad or other) to be animated, demonstrating the build process.&quot;<br /> the animation should be able to be dynamically generated without a high level of skill or manual work.<br /> <br /> I suggest the potentially best solution is to export the geometry for each atom (part) as a seperate file, using a .rb sketchup plugin that we would develope. a ruby script could be made in sketchup to do this, or it may already exist.<br /> Each file should be named appropriately to this schema-<br /> &quot;(PART_NAME, STRING)-(COPY NUMBER, NUMERIC).OBJ&quot;<br /> eg wheelA-01.obj, wheelA-02.obj etc<br /> <br /> These would be exported in folders, with the layer as the step number that defines the folder name-<br /> file path example eg-<br /> 1\wheelA-01.obj, 1\wheelA-02.obj, 2\wheelA-03.obj<br /> <br /> The .rb sketchup plugin script should export all these files based on the group/component names at their top level in the layer.<br /> The folder name this file is put in (which is based on the layer name) would define the step number for the animation process.<br /> <br /> Houdini could load the geometry from each file and folder and animate the geometry being moved into place by a process I would build. All of the objects and the animation order are defined in the file structure. so any changes to the order, or the geometry themselves are procedurally updated. this Houdini plugin that I develope could be run by anyone with the free version of houdini. they just point it at the exported objects folder, and they get a nice animation out ready to edit.<br /> <br /> Subtitles and build instructions could be later overlayed in final cut or other movie editing software.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> That AMD guy-<br /> <br /> Sergey Blagodurov &lt;Blagodurov@gmail.com&gt;<br /> I met him on the train on the way back to van. He mainly codes for databasing, but I just planted the seed and he seemed excited about the possibilities. I think ideally if we got enough developers keen that we need a sketchup like interface, with more accuracy and snapping abilities, procedural dimensioning to drive objects like in solidworks, and an object library like github with version control. <br /> <br /> so if someone loads the latest tractor file, they get notified if someone has a more recent version for a particular part, and they can choose to propogate that or not.<br /> <br /> Freecad is too far away in usability for it to do what I think a good cad program should. its interface to me is in a word, horrendous. But if its open source there could be a few modules we could start with for the interface perhaps to get people going in the right direction.<br /> <br /> I'm not sure if he's on board yet, but wanted to wait a bit. Maybe you could do a talk at AMD if you contacted him and he could connect you. Would be rad to get some of those coders to help!</div>

Andrew Graham https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=User:Andrew_Graham&diff=119106 2014-04-30T23:57:50Z

<p>Andrew Graham: </p> <hr /> <div><br /> &lt;center&gt;[[File:AndrewGrahamPortrait.jpeg|200px]]&lt;/center&gt;<br /> <br /> =Team Culturing Information=<br /> <br /> last updated February, 2013<br /> <br /> '''WHO''' are you?<br /> *Name/Nationality/Ethnicity - Andrew Graham, Australian<br /> *Location – what is your city and country? - Vancouver, BC, Canada<br /> *Contact Information – queglay at gmail dot com, Skype - queglay<br /> *Introductory Video- Not yet available.<br /> <br /> *Resume/CV – [https://vimeo.com/houdinifx/showreel My Visual FX Showreel] [https://drive.google.com/file/d/0ByftBIpw4OLAd3VhRXE4ckxqckk/edit?usp=sharing Resume]<br /> <br /> *Skills - Generalist. Problem solver. Functional and aesthetic designer/inventor. Wannabe machinist.<br /> 3D animation for architecture, hollywood film, and technical animation for machinery (Advanced, 15 years) / Interface design / 3D pipeline and software development in Houdini, Python/ Understanding of remote collaboration tools (Intermediate) / CAD Solidworks (Intermediate to Advanced), 3DS MAX, Rhino / Photography, videography (Advanced) / Electronics, Arduino microcontrollers, python programming, automation, and PCB design (Intermediate) / Optimizing lead acid cells / Coil and core configuration for electric motors, Bedini motors / Welding and blacksmithing (beginner) / Sound production, video editing (advanced) / Teacher of 3D animation (university), maths and physics (secondary gifted children) / Realtime large scale LED video presentation / Understanding of food as medicine, alternative healing, naturopathy (Intermediate) / Building low cost video, audio production systems, Hackintoshing.<br /> <br /> *Hobbies and Pastimes – Electronic music production, electronics, hackspaces and community labs, walking, meditation, esoteric research and awareness, teaching, waking up people through truth and inspiration, research into alternative energy, snowboarding, getting things done.<br /> <br /> *Of note - We are acquiring 80 acres of land in Queensland, Australia (March 2014) and wish to replicate, sell, and educate others on building GVCS tools. I would very much like to create a non profit organization to do this. The skills I would like to focus on improving most to build / teach others how to replicate the GVCS are in welding and blacksmithing.<br /> <br /> '''WHY''' are you motivated to support/develop this work?<br /> *''Do you endorse open source culture?''<br /> It's the only way forward. It's clear that even if we created abundant energy and had the technology of your wildest dreams that it will only continue to be available to the 1% and thus further widen the gap. Indeed, the technology we have now would be indistinguishable from magic to someone 100 years ago, and things aren't really any different. The washing machine is probably the only invention that actually liberated any significant number of people, and it didn't even stretch that far.<br /> *''Why are you interested in this work?''<br /> I have previously researched alternative energy as a means to free humanity. But I've now realised that even with mass proliferation of such an ability that the OSE model has the capacity to provide it all within reach, and far sooner. It is potentially a much more stable decentralized force that can provide humanity a catalyst for growth. It can be a pulling force to distribute people away from cities. This is one of its most exciting aspects to me. That as the &quot;developed&quot; cities quality of life will continue to diminish, the OSE approach may present a true alternative to those seeking a different path towards liberation.<br /> *''Are you interested in teaching about the GVCS?''<br /> Yes, I'm hoping to teach about the GVCS in Byron Bay and Ravenshoe Queensland. We intend to replicate the model here and to instruct others on how to do so.<br /> *Are you interested in economic relocalization possibilities arising from the GVCS?<br /> Absolutely, it's one of the most inspiring aspects to me.<br /> *''Do you want to use the GVCS technologies yourself? Do you want to build them yourself?''<br /> Yes, we have a network that would allow us to build them ourselves. We are also considering purchasing from OSE and shipping the 4 currently available units back to Australia in a container if it would be more cost effective. If we did this I would be interested in a visit to be involved in the manufacture with others to learn. Once we had these in Australia we would have a good basis for constructing a fabrication workshop.<br /> *''Are you interested in starting up enterprise using the GVCS technologies?''<br /> Yes. I am considering options to setup as a non profit organization as well.<br /> *''Are you interested in having the GVCS technologies fabricated by your local custom fabricator?''<br /> Yes, I hope to also be present to do the work myself and to learn these techniques.<br /> *''Are you interested in applying the GVCS to third world development? To redevelopment of crisis areas? To development of derelict areas in the developed world?''<br /> If the GVCS were fully operational in Australia, this would be an excellent keystone for being able to apply the same approaches in somewhere like Cambodia which greatly interests me. I have also previously been involved with NGO's there that would likely be willing to help us do this in the long term.<br /> *''Are you interested in starting up Industry 2.0 flexible fabrication enterprises for your local community, by drawing from a global repository of freely down-loadable designs and fabricating using open source fabrication equipment?''<br /> Yes, I think this is fundamental to the growth of the GVCS and for it to be self sustaining.<br /> *''Are you interested in the potential of the GVCS for developing local food systems?''<br /> Yes, and I think food forests and sound permaculture techniques can reduce the assumed dependency for machinery too. But it is an important step towards autonomy of any self sufficient village.<br /> *''Are you interested in doing academic studies/papers, publishing books, or doing other analysis of our efforts?'' <br /> I perform analysis all the time towards improving efficiency, but applying it to anything other than something that is immediately relevant to me is not something I'm driven by. Perhaps the development of augmented instructional mediums would interest me. I can imagine utilizing a goPro on a helmet to document a construction process, then editing it back into a step by step process could be a rapid method of documenting and feeding back instruction to another person through a screen would be useful.<br /> *Are you interested in financial investment opportunities arising from our work?<br /> Yes, this does interest me since I am investing as much as I can into our own GVCS and propagating this philosophy.<br /> *''Are you interested in the distributive economic aspects of our work, and if so, how do you see this playing out?''<br /> Yes, I think that distributing education and enabling those that seek to replicate OSE's educational approach with potential immersion programs is a great way to gain momentum in enabling a distributed economy. It could be very successful provided the infrastructure exists to take on educating the growing number of interested people.<br /> *Are you interested in building renewable energy production facilities based on open hardware (solar concentrator electric, wind, biomass power).<br /> This would be a tremendous achievement, I can't wait. A solar concentrator steam engine combination is something that I think is realistically in reach and would be incredibly enabling for many people because it could be done with relatively simple technology.<br /> *Are you interested in building resilient communities based on access to the GVCS?<br /> Yes, we are aquireing 80 acres this month (March, 2014) in Queensland, Australia to do this on a small scale, and looking at another 180 acres in Byron Bay, NSW.<br /> *Are you interested in creating a bug-out hut using GVCS technologies?<br /> No, a backpack and knowledge of edible plants will do. Besides, I'd rather bank on creating an abundant alternative over total failure of civilization.<br /> *How do you think that the GVCS can help alleviate the instabilities of global monetary systems?<br /> Read above. To quote Marcin &quot;By relocalization of economies.&quot;<br /> *How do you think that the GVCS can address issues related to resource conflicts?<br /> No one fights over air, yet. Resource conflicts can be obsolete if everyone has what they need in abundance. <br /> Decentralized local stewardship of the land is far more beneficial than the current approach of incorporating it. I've seen one man create a full canopied rainforest out of a grass field in just 20 years of his attention - and have it world heritage listed. If someone can do that, then we can transform any land into land that is abundant. If we can produce a better environment and seed more land with this approach coupled with the ability to provide shelter and knowledge then potential resource wars could be averted.<br /> *How do you think that the GVCS can address issues of overpopulation?<br /> From my understanding and to paraphrase Edward Wilson, education and empowerment of women is the most powerful determining factor for the birthrate. It approaches 2.1 or less when a civilization has these characteristics which is a beautiful characteristic. The GVCS coupled with a powerful distributive education model can be more far reaching across humanity in achieving this than other alternatives I'm aware of.<br /> *How do you think that the GVCS can address issues of resource depletion and environmental degradation?<br /> Currently, the &quot;developed&quot; cities and our means of exchange (fake fiat currency) detach humans from what they take and what they create. The result is waste, apathy, and ultimately destruction. We are much more attuned to efficiency and waste when we are connected to what we take and what we create. Creating the GVCS and enabling self sustaining communities through greater freedom, spare time for self expression and sharing, and abundant food and shelter is a big draw card for getting humans to see an alternative and redistribute themselves. There is nothing innately wrong with humanity as we are sometimes misguided to believe, humanity is just in a situation/environment that is creating its temporary insanity.<br /> <br /> '''Introduction'''<br /> <br /> I just joined the true fans, and hope to become an OSE facility replicator in Northern Queensland (Australia) and a facilitator for the OSE model. I'd like to start as an intern or to join the immersion program when it is ready. I'll start by introducing my intentions and abilities.<br /> <br /> I know myself to be a very driven generalist with broad talents. I have achieved what I have sought thus far by listening what I'm passionate about. I think OSE is a great catalyst for global change that also represents an approach for me to grow and use my collective talents, its something I wish to dedicate myself to. I am very interested in the immersion program and am willing to spend as much time as necessary to learn how to build the fundamental components of the GVCS as are presently developed, and to assist future development.<br /> <br /> In our ability to replicate a facility, we have potential access to some machinery already such as earth movers, and are well connected with the local network for metal workshops and can arrange to use their tools. Our ability to start with the primary components of the GVCS is great because of this network. I see myself as a driver in assisting this reality in Australia and as such I want to educate myself with more of the machinery, construction and metal work skills required for me to go further. I have been in visual FX/CGI for 15 years total, and consider myself a master of digital media and especially 3D and simulation. I studied a Bachelor of Design qualification under scholarship, and also have a Certificate 4 in Electronics. I am also proficient in product modelling/design in Solidworks and architectural visualization in 3DS MAX. I did this for 10 years, helping to provide the successful contracts of large developments such as Melbourne's Southern Cross Station and The Melbourne Cricket Ground.<br /> As a relevant example I have produced technical animation of complex machinery for conversion of waste plastics to diesel fuel.<br /> <br /> [http://theoriginalqueg.com/design/thermofuel.mov Waste plastics to diesel fuel conversion video]<br /> <br /> I am proficient in writing code for Arduino micro controllers and Python. I've built DC motors / battery charge controllers for automation and 16 bit data acquisition using the Arduino with my own code. I started printing circuit boards when I was 12 (building circuits since I was 10) and have used dark room projection methods on PCBs and metal bending fabrication to make an AC-DC variable power supply. I've taken some basic courses in blacksmithing, welding and metal work, and am excited about developing these skills, its a motivation for me to get away from the computer and use that 3D part of my brain for other things :) I've also experimented with Bedini motors which have interesting implications for solar (like being able to capture energy from moonlight into a battery by re-gauging voltage), being able to run DC motors at much higher efficiency, and improving the longevity and capacity of lead acid batteries.<br /> <br /> I have recently purchased a share of land in Queensland, Australia with 5 other parties (80 acres, debt free). Proliferating the open source philosophy has been something that has been growing with me for a long time. We have the collective intent to setup as an educational resource for anyone who visits abroad, and to provide tools and knowledge to the local communities in Ravenshoe, potentially extending to Byron Bay in the future. We will finalise ownership of our land plot at the end of March 2014.<br /> Many of the others involved in our property already have an exceptional understanding of permaculture and aquaculture, and are producing all of their food where they currently live. Our property in subtropical climate is capable of supporting 90% of Earth's plant species according to Matali, one of the shareholders in the land. We have river frontage and multiple (spring fed) dams on the property. We are networked with some of the best talent in Australia in permaculture. I personally hope to contribute by enhancing more of my abilities in the engineering/mechanical capacity and to teach. As a teacher, I have previously lectured at 2 Australian universities in CAD, taught Final Cut Pro and repairing/building hackintoshes to children in Asia and worked with an NGO in Cambodia. I have also previously taught a specific mathematics program to some gifted secondary students.<br /> <br /> I understand that the GVCS and immersion program is not yet complete, but after learning what is available currently I believe I would be useful in further development of OSE tools that are underway at your location during that time. I could learn much just through osmosis in being there, and I'm keen to get involved.<br /> <br /> I feel this is the right time to start communication with you all as I am located considerably closer than Australia at the moment! I am currently located in Vancouver, Canada on contract with Sony Imageworks. I'm working on 3D Visual FX for Spider man as an FX TD.<br /> <br /> I have used other specialized procedural 3D tools like Houdini, excellent for creating custom simulation and organic and large scale evolving 3D toolsets. These areas will help with design and potentially animated documentation of any future projects to make replication for other adopters easier.<br /> <br /> 2 of us at the property are also audio producers to a very high skill level, and I am experienced with professional photography/videography. I have aerial experience in photography from helicopters and UAV's. We intend to construct 2 audio production studios on the property, so being able to cover digital distribution and internet media in the future is an area that we can accommodate towards.<br /> <br /> <br /> Previous work-<br /> <br /> [https://vimeo.com/houdinifx/showreel My Visual FX Showreel] <br /> <br /> [http://theoriginalqueg.com/design/towerfull.flv LED lighting sequence design for the Doha Asian Games]<br /> <br /> [http://theoriginalqueg.com/ Interface Design ]<br /> <br /> [http://theoriginalqueg.com/design/caulfield.mov Interior design]<br /> <br /> [http://theoriginalqueg.com/design/footprint.mov Aerial photography and videography ]<br /> <br /> [http://theoriginalqueg.com/design/showroom.mov Subaru showroom fitout]<br /> <br /> [http://theoriginalqueg.com/design/bishopslodge03.mov Informative animation on architectural design principles]<br /> <br /> [http://theoriginalqueg.com/design/fortunest.mov Architectural animation]<br /> <br /> [http://theoriginalqueg.com/design/interchange.mov Town Planning]<br /> <br /> [http://theoriginalqueg.com/design/ripcurl.mov Product modelling using a micrometer and Rhino 3D]</div>

Andrew Graham https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=User_talk:Andrew_Graham&diff=119105 2014-04-30T23:25:41Z

<p>Andrew Graham: /* Scripts */</p> <hr /> <div>== files sync and backup ==<br /> <br /> hey andrew, ive been trying out the bittorrent sync program. its closed source but its pretty effective and has no limits on data. no cloud backup but can have multiple cpu's storing. http://www.bittorrent.com/sync<br /> <br /> --------<br /> <br /> Thanks so much, thats a great suggestion!<br /> <br /> == Utilizing wiki better with bundled toolbar ==<br /> <br /> Hey Andrew, just wanted to suggest checking out [[User_talk:Marcin#Activate_Extended_wiki_formatting_capabilities]]. It can help with readability and minimize saved edits because wiki users would preview their work in a more streamlined way. Cheers -[[User:Kunda|Kunda]] ([[User talk:Kunda|talk]])<br /> <br /> == Fabrication Diagram Instructions ==<br /> <br /> Hi,<br /> Did you ever do a tutorial on making [[Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Fabrication_Drawings|fabrication diagrams]]? I'm trying to print some component diagrams that I drew in sketchup.<br /> &lt;br/&gt;Ty,<br /> [[User:Aidan Williamson|Aidan Williamson]] ([[User talk:Aidan Williamson|talk]]) 22:00, 31 March 2014 (CEST)<br /> <br /> Funny you should ask, I was hoping to do that. Should have a spare hour to do it today per Marcins request.<br /> Andrew<br /> <br /> You da man<br /> &lt;br/&gt;<br /> FYI: four tildes is a signed timestamp &lt;nowiki&gt;~~~~&lt;/nowiki&gt;<br /> &lt;br/&gt;<br /> [[User:Aidan Williamson|Aidan Williamson]] ([[User talk:Aidan Williamson|talk]]) 23:08, 31 March 2014 (CEST)<br /> <br /> let me try that [[User:Andrew Graham|Andrew Graham]] ([[User talk:Andrew Graham|talk]]) 23:09, 31 March 2014 (CEST)<br /> <br /> == Scripts ==<br /> <br /> Hi. I was wondering if you could do a quick video/writeup on scripts. I see you mentioning them but I don't have much idea of what they are/do other than that you write them on a computer. Thanks, [[User:Aidan Williamson|Aidan Williamson]] ([[User talk:Aidan Williamson|talk]]) 18:44, 29 April 2014 (CEST)<br /> <br /> Hello, what kind of scripts do you mean? What do you want to do? [[User:Andrew Graham|Andrew Graham]] ([[User talk:Andrew Graham|talk]])<br /> <br /> I'm actually not really sure. You write about using scripts to upload images - maybe just a definition of scripts? What they are in the ecology of computers? [[User:Aidan Williamson|Aidan Williamson]] ([[User talk:Aidan Williamson|talk]]) 14:00, 30 April 2014 (CEST)<br /> <br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Scripts<br /> <br /> Thanks. The sketchup plugin sounds interesting. Took me ~30 mins the other day to lay a bunch of parts flat. How would a script interface with a program like sketchup? (I am familiar with only assembly language when it comes to programming so I might not understand jargon in the answer.) <br /> [[User:Aidan Williamson|Aidan Williamson]] ([[User talk:Aidan Williamson|talk]]) 01:16, 1 May 2014 (CEST)<br /> <br /> i've never coded plugins for sketchup, so your on your own there unfortunately. If i had to do it i would use Houdini provided i was sure it could export the dxf format correctly. thats just because im familiar with it.</div>

Andrew Graham https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=User_talk:Andrew_Graham&diff=119102 2014-04-30T17:44:43Z

<p>Andrew Graham: /* Scripts */</p> <hr /> <div>== files sync and backup ==<br /> <br /> hey andrew, ive been trying out the bittorrent sync program. its closed source but its pretty effective and has no limits on data. no cloud backup but can have multiple cpu's storing. http://www.bittorrent.com/sync<br /> <br /> --------<br /> <br /> Thanks so much, thats a great suggestion!<br /> <br /> == Utilizing wiki better with bundled toolbar ==<br /> <br /> Hey Andrew, just wanted to suggest checking out [[User_talk:Marcin#Activate_Extended_wiki_formatting_capabilities]]. It can help with readability and minimize saved edits because wiki users would preview their work in a more streamlined way. Cheers -[[User:Kunda|Kunda]] ([[User talk:Kunda|talk]])<br /> <br /> == Fabrication Diagram Instructions ==<br /> <br /> Hi,<br /> Did you ever do a tutorial on making [[Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Fabrication_Drawings|fabrication diagrams]]? I'm trying to print some component diagrams that I drew in sketchup.<br /> &lt;br/&gt;Ty,<br /> [[User:Aidan Williamson|Aidan Williamson]] ([[User talk:Aidan Williamson|talk]]) 22:00, 31 March 2014 (CEST)<br /> <br /> Funny you should ask, I was hoping to do that. Should have a spare hour to do it today per Marcins request.<br /> Andrew<br /> <br /> You da man<br /> &lt;br/&gt;<br /> FYI: four tildes is a signed timestamp &lt;nowiki&gt;~~~~&lt;/nowiki&gt;<br /> &lt;br/&gt;<br /> [[User:Aidan Williamson|Aidan Williamson]] ([[User talk:Aidan Williamson|talk]]) 23:08, 31 March 2014 (CEST)<br /> <br /> let me try that [[User:Andrew Graham|Andrew Graham]] ([[User talk:Andrew Graham|talk]]) 23:09, 31 March 2014 (CEST)<br /> <br /> == Scripts ==<br /> <br /> Hi. I was wondering if you could do a quick video/writeup on scripts. I see you mentioning them but I don't have much idea of what they are/do other than that you write them on a computer. Thanks, [[User:Aidan Williamson|Aidan Williamson]] ([[User talk:Aidan Williamson|talk]]) 18:44, 29 April 2014 (CEST)<br /> <br /> Hello, what kind of scripts do you mean? What do you want to do? [[User:Andrew Graham|Andrew Graham]] ([[User talk:Andrew Graham|talk]])<br /> <br /> I'm actually not really sure. You write about using scripts to upload images - maybe just a definition of scripts? What they are in the ecology of computers? [[User:Aidan Williamson|Aidan Williamson]] ([[User talk:Aidan Williamson|talk]]) 14:00, 30 April 2014 (CEST)<br /> <br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Scripts</div>

Andrew Graham https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Scripts&diff=119101 2014-04-30T17:43:28Z

<p>Andrew Graham: </p> <hr /> <div>Scripts in the context of computing are usually referring to the use of basic programs or subroutines to make repetitive tasks easier. They may also refer to adding new functionality as a &quot;Plugin&quot;<br /> <br /> In the realm of computer graphics, we often use scripts to automate repetitive tasks.<br /> One may use a python script to say dynamically resize a bunch of images to fit within a certain size or aspect ratio, instead of having to manually do this for each one.<br /> <br /> When building a DXF layout for CAM or Machining from a sketchup fil, a script could be used to automatically layout all the parts flat, instead of the user having to do this manually for each part every time an update should occur.</div>

Andrew Graham https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Scripts&diff=119100 2014-04-30T17:42:25Z

<p>Andrew Graham: Created page with &quot;Scripts in the context of computing are usually referring to the use of basic programs or subroutines to make tasks easier. In the realm of computer graphics, we often use sc...&quot;</p> <hr /> <div>Scripts in the context of computing are usually referring to the use of basic programs or subroutines to make tasks easier.<br /> <br /> In the realm of computer graphics, we often use scripts to automate repetitive tasks.<br /> One may use a python script to say dynamically resize a bunch of images to fit within a certain size or aspect ratio, instead of having to manually do this for each one.<br /> <br /> When building a DXF layout for CAM or Machining from a sketchup fil, a script could be used to automatically layout all the parts flat, instead of the user having to do this manually for each part every time an update should occur.</div>

Andrew Graham https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=User_talk:Andrew_Graham&diff=119076 2014-04-29T18:23:59Z

<p>Andrew Graham: </p> <hr /> <div>== files sync and backup ==<br /> <br /> hey andrew, ive been trying out the bittorrent sync program. its closed source but its pretty effective and has no limits on data. no cloud backup but can have multiple cpu's storing. http://www.bittorrent.com/sync<br /> <br /> --------<br /> <br /> Thanks so much, thats a great suggestion!<br /> <br /> == Utilizing wiki better with bundled toolbar ==<br /> <br /> Hey Andrew, just wanted to suggest checking out [[User_talk:Marcin#Activate_Extended_wiki_formatting_capabilities]]. It can help with readability and minimize saved edits because wiki users would preview their work in a more streamlined way. Cheers -[[User:Kunda|Kunda]] ([[User talk:Kunda|talk]])<br /> <br /> == Fabrication Diagram Instructions ==<br /> <br /> Hi,<br /> Did you ever do a tutorial on making [[Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Fabrication_Drawings|fabrication diagrams]]? I'm trying to print some component diagrams that I drew in sketchup.<br /> &lt;br/&gt;Ty,<br /> [[User:Aidan Williamson|Aidan Williamson]] ([[User talk:Aidan Williamson|talk]]) 22:00, 31 March 2014 (CEST)<br /> <br /> Funny you should ask, I was hoping to do that. Should have a spare hour to do it today per Marcins request.<br /> Andrew<br /> <br /> You da man<br /> &lt;br/&gt;<br /> FYI: four tildes is a signed timestamp &lt;nowiki&gt;~~~~&lt;/nowiki&gt;<br /> &lt;br/&gt;<br /> [[User:Aidan Williamson|Aidan Williamson]] ([[User talk:Aidan Williamson|talk]]) 23:08, 31 March 2014 (CEST)<br /> <br /> let me try that [[User:Andrew Graham|Andrew Graham]] ([[User talk:Andrew Graham|talk]]) 23:09, 31 March 2014 (CEST)<br /> <br /> == Scripts ==<br /> <br /> Hi. I was wondering if you could do a quick video/writeup on scripts. I see you mentioning them but I don't have much idea of what they are/do other than that you write them on a computer. Thanks, [[User:Aidan Williamson|Aidan Williamson]] ([[User talk:Aidan Williamson|talk]]) 18:44, 29 April 2014 (CEST)<br /> <br /> Hello, what kind of scripts do you mean? What do you want to do? [[User:Andrew Graham|Andrew Graham]] ([[User talk:Andrew Graham|talk]])</div>

Andrew Graham https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=User_talk:Andrew_Graham&diff=119075 2014-04-29T18:22:53Z

<p>Andrew Graham: /* Scripts */</p> <hr /> <div>== files sync and backup ==<br /> <br /> hey andrew, ive been trying out the bittorrent sync program. its closed source but its pretty effective and has no limits on data. no cloud backup but can have multiple cpu's storing. http://www.bittorrent.com/sync<br /> <br /> --------<br /> <br /> Thanks so much, thats a great suggestion!<br /> <br /> == Utilizing wiki better with bundled toolbar ==<br /> <br /> Hey Andrew, just wanted to suggest checking out [[User_talk:Marcin#Activate_Extended_wiki_formatting_capabilities]]. It can help with readability and minimize saved edits because wiki users would preview their work in a more streamlined way. Cheers -[[User:Kunda|Kunda]] ([[User talk:Kunda|talk]])<br /> <br /> == Fabrication Diagram Instructions ==<br /> <br /> Hi,<br /> Did you ever do a tutorial on making [[Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Fabrication_Drawings|fabrication diagrams]]? I'm trying to print some component diagrams that I drew in sketchup.<br /> &lt;br/&gt;Ty,<br /> [[User:Aidan Williamson|Aidan Williamson]] ([[User talk:Aidan Williamson|talk]]) 22:00, 31 March 2014 (CEST)<br /> <br /> Funny you should ask, I was hoping to do that. Should have a spare hour to do it today per Marcins request.<br /> Andrew<br /> <br /> You da man<br /> &lt;br/&gt;<br /> FYI: four tildes is a signed timestamp &lt;nowiki&gt;~~~~&lt;/nowiki&gt;<br /> &lt;br/&gt;<br /> [[User:Aidan Williamson|Aidan Williamson]] ([[User talk:Aidan Williamson|talk]]) 23:08, 31 March 2014 (CEST)<br /> <br /> let me try that [[User:Andrew Graham|Andrew Graham]] ([[User talk:Andrew Graham|talk]]) 23:09, 31 March 2014 (CEST)<br /> <br /> == Scripts ==<br /> <br /> Hi. I was wondering if you could do a quick video/writeup on scripts. I see you mentioning them but I don't have much idea of what they are/do other than that you write them on a computer. Thanks, [[User:Aidan Williamson|Aidan Williamson]] ([[User talk:Aidan Williamson|talk]]) 18:44, 29 April 2014 (CEST)<br /> <br /> Hello, what kind of scripts do you mean? What do you want to do? ([[User talk:Andrew Graham|talk]])</div>

Andrew Graham https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Andrew_Graham_Log&diff=119060 2014-04-28T16:25:07Z

<p>Andrew Graham: </p> <hr /> <div>=Ideas to implement=<br /> * Create a sketchup for OSE video to show how to draw with the right accuracy, increase circle segments, use hiding, snapping etc, arcs to measure etc. also how to post the final result using the dozuki cad template<br /> * it may be possible to layout 3D objects from sketchup in free cad to be flat. it could be done dynamically using python script. this would give a proper procedural workflow for dimensioning. doing it manually isn't feasible because adjustments to sketchup files are asking for trouble. When it comes to the cam process you have to do it all over again to ensure you aren't maintaining any old incorrect parts.<br /> http://www.freecadweb.org/wiki/index.php?title=Python_scripting_tutorial<br /> * Build a workflow in Houdini to dynamically build a dxf with dimensioning and instructions for fabrication<br /> * Build a procedural animation tool to follow a spreadsheet for construction order. The result from houdini would be an open GL animation of the build of the model.<br /> * Improve wiki usability with suggested extension by Kunda<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/User_talk:Andrew_Graham<br /> <br /> =To do list=<br /> * look at stucco sprayer<br /> * get dish detergent<br /> * empty ash container.<br /> * hot water flow threshold to turn on is too high. kitchen tap needs to be turned on full for it to work.<br /> * rodent problem -thorough clean of kitchen and seal food away.<br /> * Make a sign to make sure people don't burn treated pine in the fire.<br /> <br /> timezones seem incorrect?<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/File:Soil_Pulverizer.skp<br /> <br /> =28th April, 2014=<br /> http://stackoverflow.com/questions/15461170/upload-an-image-to-a-google-spreadsheet/15474002#15474002<br /> It's possible to upload images with a form script, and forms can be edited offline with chrome. You just need to click more on the left column in drive, and click offline.<br /> <br /> this would be a great procedure for collecting information and mailing it out automatically to everyone with every entry. we would always be in sync with every entry learned. like the borg! but more awesome.<br /> <br /> =27th April, 2014=<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/CEB_Press_6_-_Frame_Module_-_Build_Instructions<br /> <br /> Build process for frame-<br /> *instead of finishing the welds for the vertical supports, it would be better to just tack each seam it in 4-6 spots and then bolt it all together.<br /> *The bolts should be on the interior so that the seams can be welded/finished.<br /> *all the other parts can be finished seperately.<br /> *the tolerance for accuracy on how important a 90 degree angle is on any part, and any spots that need to be ground out should be marked.<br /> <br /> We had a problem in the morning wasting time on a new methos to obtain greater accuracy with levels but we wasted hours on that and couldn't get it going. once we ditched that method and realised we could finish the welds after its bolted we had great velocity. but the momentumdidn't really happen until 2pm.<br /> <br /> =26th April, 2014=<br /> Setup links for all the modules. people need to embed these links into each module build time data page.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/CEB_Press_6_-_Overall_Machine_-_Build_Time_Data<br /> <br /> =25th April, 2014=<br /> created process layout for CEB press<br /> &lt;html&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://docs.google.com/drawings/d/1J3Izbcv5fDy2ITCB9SckSXit6GPZPrTc04xX8Yzs2Fs/pub?w=1651&amp;amp;h=305&quot;&gt;&lt;/html&gt;<br /> https://docs.google.com/drawings/d/1J3Izbcv5fDy2ITCB9SckSXit6GPZPrTc04xX8Yzs2Fs/edit<br /> <br /> =19th April, 2014=<br /> [http://www.xnview.com/en/xnconvert/#downloads xnview] is a must have for all dozuki users<br /> [File:Batch_resize_for_dozuki.xbs]<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/w/images/5/56/Batch_resize_for_dozuki.xbs<br /> <br /> It will resize an entire folder of images and can give a black border to put it in the right ratio for dozuki. It also helps when lots of users are trying to upload at once.<br /> <br /> Microhouse-<br /> because of variation in the concrete foundation, they were re measured on each side and checked against floor modules to see there are no surprises when they slot in.<br /> <br /> because of variation in birck szie we need half bricks to correct as early as possible to prevent parallel lines in the stacks occuring, i suggest that when the CEB press is in auto mode that because the other buttons on the interface are not useful in this state we use them for this - pressing one of these buttons can go to a half size brick mode, and another can go to a third size brick mode. this prevents slow down by getting someone to manually vary the pots when required. we just do a few of these varitions and revert back to normal funcitonality.<br /> <br /> =11th April, 2014=<br /> jar soil test<br /> http://www.ext.colostate.edu/mg/gardennotes/214.html<br /> <br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Bunk_Bed<br /> updated bunk bed sketchup and bom<br /> <br /> <br /> =10th April, 2014=<br /> We finished most of the bucket, all that needs to be done is weld the quick attach plates on the sides after the tractor loads it up.<br /> <br /> We lost a lot of time due to the shaft not being flat all the way across. its important to append this into the instrucitons. we should also note that tynes need to be drilled and then ground out flat, probably best to do it prior to welding the flats on.<br /> also brushing the shaft for a very easy fit for the bearings before fitting anything is an important thing to note for the build.<br /> <br /> we discussed making abox for the gopro hero3.<br /> <br /> the box that comes with it would be fine to just drill a hole in and use the usb cord to extend into a powergorilla or powermonkey. there are a lot of cheaper duplicates around but these are designed to be more ruggedised and have good multi voltage outputs.<br /> this one maybe overkill, but i find it has saved my bacon a number of times. if i forget to charge it its ok, I can run my gopro for maybe 3 days at least before charging again.<br /> https://www.powertraveller.com/en/shop/portable-chargers/professional/powergorilla/<br /> <br /> also the mini or the powermonkey extreme 12v would be adequate for all day timelapse<br /> https://www.powertraveller.com/en/shop/portable-chargers/professional/<br /> <br /> there is also a 3d printed box we could makle from here<br /> https://www.youmagine.com/designs/gopro-hero-3-box<br /> <br /> =9th April, 2014=<br /> need to adjust the build process for tynes. without a flat face, even working with gravity spatter on the nut is a big problem. a more robust process is to drill a hole, then use a grinder/cutter to flatten the area. this means there is no gap where the welds takes place on the nut and using this method they stayed more free<br /> <br /> =8th April, 2014=<br /> Had a very productive build day yesterday on the soil mixer. Things of note were-<br /> Putting the lid on was a bit of a challenge. We had to oxy cut the lid down a little more. we also realised that using clamp on the bottom to rest the lid on was usefull. it was to help get the lid in position with all the other welds for the hinges that need to take place.<br /> I made a mistake by welding the Hinge struts for the cylinder as part of the outside hinges on the lid. the parts look very similar, just a little shorter. it would help if we cut a bit of a different shape in the cad for easy identification. also to make sure everything is numbered.<br /> Putting on the hinges was easier than I thought. You can actually just use clamps or bolt and nuts for each part, keeping them at the 90 degree angle as in the design. Then position them in place getting everything square and tac away. This is all synced up in Trovebox and will be added to the documentation.<br /> <br /> <br /> =5th April, 2014=<br /> one guy got a bond with PLA on his 3d printer directly onto copper at 130C. that means if it works, and im sure it could, we could buy copper sheets directly at the weight price, and print the plastic layer on the back. print the layer on the other side as a resist layer and etch away. this has some potential.<br /> http://hydraraptor.blogspot.com/2010/04/cu-pla.html<br /> <br /> Here is a concept for a self aligning QA Lip<br /> <br /> [[Image:Self Aligning QA Mount.jpg|600px]]<br /> <br /> this can be improved by inverting the wedge and having it internally.<br /> <br /> =4th April, 2014=<br /> Fixed the construction order of the bucket on the dozuki and updated the tines production process to reflect what is happening now.<br /> <br /> Had lots of problems with the wire feeder on the welder today when trying to finish the QA Lip. but we got a lot more done towards the end of the day getting most of the bucket and lip tacked in place. almost ready to start putting on the lid once those welds are finished.<br /> <br /> <br /> =2nd April, 2014=<br /> <br /> today I cut up the larger pieces of stock on the iron worker. but we had a bit of a blocker and that was 2 big pieces that need to be cut with a torch. so we couldn't continue on the main bucket apart form the side walls, but we were busy all day anyway cutting up all the other necessary parts from stock, tubing, and tacking half the teeth.<br /> <br /> I thought this was a good read<br /> <br /> http://www.thefabricator.com/article/arcwelding/22-possible-causes-of-weld-metal-porosity<br /> and this -<br /> http://www.daihen-usa.com/techtips.php<br /> <br /> The first article says porosity is necessarily a deal breaker unless its really bad or a structural requirement<br /> <br /> I learnt to day that having the angle of the tool right made a big difference at about 15 degrees off perpendicular. paint was also causing major problems, so after an initial tack i went grinding along all the seams, welded again and ground out the old bad tacks. <br /> <br /> I know Marcin didn't want us to use the grinder, but it became a necessity with the paint on the rebar that needed to be removed along the seams. I used to grind out heaps of hot water systems I used to find for scrap copper thought so i felt comfortable doing it and it was perfectly safe, I used the small grinder which I'm used to.<br /> <br /> I learnt that when tacking, if it peels a piece back in the other direction after shrinkage, that its better to tack less, just a tiny dot, so that its more malleable. then you can tack the other side more easily without breaking it and then finish with some more solid tacks.<br /> <br /> <br /> =1st April, 2014=<br /> Relocated lots of stuff in the workshop and did some cleanup. Learnt how to weld with Marcin.<br /> <br /> =31st March, 2014=<br /> Upload in progress for a you tube video showing how to produce diagrams in sketchup using scenes for dozuki.<br /> <br /> Finished the dozuki for the Soil Mixer.<br /> <br /> Found an interesting resource on hardening steel<br /> http://www.roymech.co.uk/Useful_Tables/Matter/Hardening.html<br /> <br /> =29th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> Happy birthday to me!<br /> <br /> This shows 3 channel capacitive sensing with an arduino.<br /> http://playground.arduino.cc/Main/CapacitiveSensor?from=Main.CapSense#.UzeQ0dzgg8M<br /> <br /> one thing i wonder about is interference with other objects and people around the table though. when the sense gets near the edges, this could change. i wonder if its being used for this purpose in the real world now how they deal with this issue - if it is an issue that is.<br /> <br /> if the sensor is closer to the plate, with a lower value resistor being used, then this could limit interference.<br /> <br /> using a ring or toroid will have increased sensitivity in the axis perpendicular to the ring. this is because the delta in the field is greater in this axis. good idea!<br /> http://www.agelkom.com.tr/prod02.htm<br /> <br /> you can vary pwm as cutting height is approached to get finer control and slower z speed.<br /> http://www.agelkom.com.tr/cap04_pwm_function.htm<br /> <br /> note aluminium case for shielding of circuit.<br /> http://www.cnc4pc.com/Store/osc/product_info.php?products_id=339?osCsid=9cb438690de2f645e1a951bef1ba4df8<br /> <br /> looking at the material and justins log, i like the idea of using the adafruit ultrasonic range sensor. I drew an idea for some reflector geometry to let us measure a disc pattern instead of a narrow beam.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Ultrasound_Torch_Height_Controller<br /> <br /> its clear that a capacitive solution will require totally different operation when going to a plasma cutter instead of oxy. infact, the capacitive sensor isn't even used - rather the voltage is measured between the torch and table to control height.<br /> <br /> that means two different technologies to achieve the same thing, because you need the capacitive measurement when the torch is off for the initial height.<br /> <br /> i think ultrasonic may be the way to go because it wont be affected by the two different modes of cutting. it could be cheaper, and simpler to maintain.<br /> <br /> you also need to consider height reduction after the cut commences. you could feed an isolated voltage/current measurment to tell the controlled when to drop the torch head.<br /> <br /> shielded cables are a must- some good stuff here, actually a noise reduction bible-<br /> http://www.cnccookbook.com/CCCNCNoise.html<br /> <br /> also<br /> http://www.randyray.com/tmc/rf_shielding.htm<br /> <br /> =28th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> [https://docs.google.com/drawings/d/1IMUu0otp7BRCflIRYKZ1JqR3lF3VF8OBjkPQXPQbV3A/edit created Parallel workflow diagram.] Google draw sucks though. Doesn't know how to filter images for different sizes.<br /> <br /> [http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Build_Instructions embedded this drawing into the build instructions page]<br /> <br /> Added the hinge mechanism and lid build to the dozuki for the soil mixer.<br /> <br /> =27th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> Created bunk bed design. 2 bracket pathways we need to decide on.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Bunk_Bed<br /> <br /> bunk bed specs<br /> 5'2&quot; top level for matress<br /> 1'2&quot; bottom level for matress<br /> 6'4&quot; max height<br /> <br /> moved copy from http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Fabrication_Drawings to http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Build_Instructions<br /> <br /> Setup build instructions for bucket on dozuki<br /> http://opensourceecology.dozuki.com/Guide/Installing+Soil+Mixer+-+Module+-+Bucket+The+soil+pulverizer+bucket/126?revisionid=HEAD<br /> <br /> brief discussion of using internet lines as one connection.<br /> if your going to be paying for 2 internet connections it would be good to load balance them both from one location and distribute it out from there. this would solve the problem of having large numbers of people, and since you are already paying for the second line it makes sense to do it. currently with just 10 users, 50kbit/s up is not going to cut it.<br /> <br /> running ethernet up to the micro house could be done with a switch no more than every 100 meters to boost the signal. if power is an issue power over ethernet could be used also, mentioned in this thread<br /> http://forums.whirlpool.net.au/archive/1164805<br /> <br /> so onto using two connections as one-<br /> <br /> Load balancing is easier than bonding.<br /> <br /> Bonding will double web speed for a single user with 2 internet connections. however this is unnecessary.<br /> <br /> Load balancing will not give you a maximum of 2x the speed for a single, but it will distribute traffic to each of the connections on demand if done correctly. In the real world this means with large numbers of users the web will perform just as well as in bonding. You need to make sure that with 2 connections going in that the load balancing won't just act as a failsafe - switch over to different internet connection if one fails. you want both connections to be used.<br /> <br /> http://www.increasebroadbandspeed.co.uk/what-is-adsl-load-balancing<br /> <br /> if you have a wrt54gl router this might be a good start to figuring this out.<br /> <br /> to achieve this your going to need to position those 2 adsl modems in the same location, before the load balancing hardware - router.<br /> <br /> The ISP doesn't have to know about it if you want to load balance yourself. I believe it can be done without them<br /> <br /> this guy did it with that router-<br /> http://forum.kitz.co.uk/index.php?topic=12308.msg232604#msg232604<br /> <br /> =26th March, 2014=<br /> * Measured out boards for the side rooms.<br /> * Did file format tests import into houdini.<br /> * Spoke to randy on the phone and cuts are ready for pickup. http://www.seamanschuske.com/Seaman_and_Schuske/Welcome.html<br /> <br /> It will now be possible to create a large chunk of the workflow in sketchup for documentation and build procedure. From a base model we can have in the same file procedural references for everything including<br /> *CAD layout for DXF export to CNC.<br /> *exploded view as animation<br /> *fabrication procedure as animation.<br /> *fabrication procedure frames for print manual and dozuki.<br /> <br /> what this means if the base model needs updates, all these dependencies will update too. problems are the plugin is unstable in 2014. it crashes when setting or getting states, using scenes, and also exporting .mp4 doesn't work.<br /> <br /> plan for sketchup video<br /> show dropbox sharing. show scenes, layers groups. show circles and tricks with CAD. show dxf conversion tricks and laying out in sketchup.<br /> <br /> * good sketchup video on scenes<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qEYmiKh-sqs<br /> * groups and components - make sure you know when to use which, or your file will get slow quickly.<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7V_KbxXVt0I<br /> * layers<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fBdP499iw0Y<br /> *speed enhancements<br /> https://sites.google.com/site/sketchupsage/faster<br /> <br /> *dynamic components - pro only<br /> http://help.sketchup.com/en/article/94885<br /> <br /> *plugins<br /> http://sketchucation.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=10&amp;t=36583&amp;p=322249&amp;hilit=+add+hidden+layer+#p322249<br /> <br /> Thinks like the tunes on the rototiller, or grid beam should be designated in sketchup as dynamic components. building them in other software throws away the procedural abitiy of other software, or adding complexity to do it through other plugins to enable software like freecad or open scad.<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;html&gt;&lt;script type=&quot;text/javascript&quot;<br /> data-dozuki-embed='3'<br /> src=&quot;http://d1luk0418egahw.cloudfront.net/static/embed/ifixit-embed.3.js#id=130&amp;site=opensourceecology.dozuki.com&quot;&gt;<br /> &lt;/script&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://opensourceecology.dozuki.com/Guide/Installing+Soil+Mixer+-+Module+-+Toothbar+Teeth/130&quot;&gt;Installing Soil Mixer - Module - Toothbar Teeth&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/html&gt;<br /> <br /> =25th March, 2014=<br /> *updated fabrication procedure text for marcin to review. updated exploded parts diagram and CAM layout numbering. <br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Fabrication_Drawings<br /> *added washers into sketchup file<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_3D_CAD<br /> <br /> *fixed p29 length in cam files to accomodate washers in the hinges<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_CAM<br /> <br /> *Updated cam files protocol<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/CAM_Files_Protocol#Other_Resources<br /> <br /> Note: A lot of time seems to be lost when design changes are made and dependent files on the sketchup such as the dxf, images on the wiki, and wiki uploads to keep everything current need to take place. potentially a more desirable solution would be to have the ability to synchronize all these changes at once.<br /> <br /> =24th March, 2014=<br /> [http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_CAM Updated DXF to send to seaman schuske - Randy Clinton]<br /> *increased the diameter by 1/16th on all the holes except the quick attach mount, and the 3 ground plates because they are already oversized to .625&quot;<br /> <br /> [http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_3D_CAD Updated 3D CAD Sketchup file for exploded diagram and DXF generation]<br /> <br /> <br /> [http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Exploded_Parts_Diagram Updated exploded parts diagram]<br /> <br /> *Updated fabrication diagram text.<br /> <br /> =21th March, 2014=<br /> *Updated exploded view and part numbering.<br /> [[Image:ExplodedView.jpg|400px]]<br /> <br /> *Updated CAM and CAD. Removed extra lines from CAM. fixed radius on motor holes, removed extra motor holes for bolt.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_3D_CAD<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_CAM<br /> <br /> *Added 2nd coat of lime wash to second last room.<br /> *Anthony added first coat of lime wash to last room.<br /> <br /> =20th March, 2014=<br /> *bearing spec for bolt holes is incorrect - should be .625 - http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/File:Bearing178.jpg<br /> *needed to add 4 extra holes into the sidewall<br /> *tested internet, and its not going to be fast enough for a large group of people. good for a few people, up to 4 maybe.<br /> *[http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Exploded_Parts_Diagram Added exploded parts diagram]<br /> *Rubbed out walls in last 2 east rooms. Moved the big glass sheets into the silo. Prepped whitewash and applied into the second last room.<br /> <br /> =19th March, 2014=<br /> *fixed a wheelbarrow axel by replacing the pin and putting 3 large washers on there. After pumping up the tires it'll be good as new.<br /> *mixxed approx 5 shovels of sand to 4-5 shovels of very clayey soil to plaster the window and door on the outside room. this took a lot longer than anticipated to do the job well. plastering on top of the window and door frame required almost 100% clay just to stick, I'm wondering if it will crack but it was the only way it would stick on there even with the wire mesh.<br /> *used sprayer and a damp cloth to smooth out the walls to prep for limewash<br /> *Added suggested ratio to lime wash and plaster ratio suggestion.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Lime_Plaster_and_Wash#BoM<br /> *[http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasertoc.htm came across a sweet link from anthony to make your own laser - laser sam]<br /> <br /> =18th March, 2014=<br /> Uploaded timelapse videos<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kMBSe5V7M8E<br /> <br /> Updated sketchup file to reposition the holes for the mounts. some inaccuracies were present in the components attaching to the shaft.<br /> <br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_3D_CAD<br /> <br /> sketchup note: when creating circles, you must go to window, entity info, chad change the segments from 24 to 48. most circles look like ploys other wise and this will follow through to the machine file.<br /> <br /> Moved everything from the outer rooms into office and silo. took a while because there was a lot of sorting. some things needed to be inside. <br /> <br /> applied lime wash to a wall in the middle room. tomorrow need to smooth out the rendering with a rag. also staple chicken air and get sand from micro house.<br /> <br /> tommorrow - fix sheets and dimensions. get a quote from Justin Fuston<br /> https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0ArpE5Y9PpJCXdGpUZ3dqYWw3czQzZ09IUHFpRl9VT1E#gid=0<br /> <br /> =17th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> Updated CAD. Chamfered corners, removed excess hinge parts, rotated struts 90 degrees. added gussets, but now they may not be necessary with the struts at 90 degrees. easy to remove. stacking of the hinge components around the hydraulic mechanism has been changed for better strength and ease of construction.<br /> <br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_3D_CAD<br /> <br /> This has been fixed. see video! you just need to clear the prefs.<br /> &lt;strike&gt;I also submitted a complaint to google, sketch up 2014 eliminated features in the free version of 2013 so that you have to pay for them. It's no longer possible to export to 3DS and most other pro formats now.&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> <br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A9TdFNZwLtc&amp;feature=em-upload_owner<br /> <br /> &lt;html&gt;<br /> &lt;iframe width=&quot;560&quot; height=&quot;315&quot; src=&quot;//www.youtube.com/embed/A9TdFNZwLtc&quot; frameborder=&quot;0&quot; allowfullscreen&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;<br /> &lt;/html&gt;<br /> <br /> Microhouse-<br /> - Painted walls with white.<br /> <br /> - Moved weights into the silo.<br /> <br /> - prepped lime in 1 to one in the white container.<br /> <br /> =16th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> Added dhal to recipes-<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Recipes<br /> <br /> Fixed vacuum cleaner.<br /> <br /> Setup DIY mouse trap design to drown rodents.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Mouse_trap<br /> <br /> =15th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> Recipe for Dahl. For 8 people.<br /> Awesome vegetarian power food high in protein.<br /> <br /> 4 onions.<br /> <br /> half a bulb of garlic<br /> <br /> 1.5kg lentils or split peas, soaked for as long as you can during the day, overnight if possible. if not, it will just take longer to cook but it works out fine. rinse them thoroughly!<br /> <br /> Coconut oil<br /> <br /> teaspoon whole cumin seeds<br /> <br /> cumin powder<br /> <br /> garam masala<br /> <br /> salt<br /> <br /> pepper<br /> <br /> chilli or cayenne pepper<br /> <br /> turmeric<br /> <br /> sour cream and cilantro for garnish.<br /> <br /> heat the oil and keep an eye on it so it doesn't smoke.<br /> fry the cumin seeds for a bit then add the onions and garlic on high. when the onions are clear to brown colour add 1/2 teaspoons of the rest of the spices and the lentils. add water to the pot until the lentils are just covered.<br /> keep on high heat until it starts to boil, then simmer until the lentils are soft/falling apart. this usually takes an hour.<br /> add to bowls and garnish with the cilantro and sour cream!<br /> <br /> <br /> -------<br /> <br /> <br /> Added large grain sand and clay mix to top right corner of hablab. when dried we added mist and then lime wash. it may need another layer.<br /> <br /> Painted the outside door frames yellow.<br /> <br /> Modifications added to http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Review<br /> <br /> Current design revisions-<br /> <br /> 1. Long reinforcement on edge of lid - 1/4 x 2. Current reinforcement needs to be rotated 90 degrees.<br /> <br /> 2. Centre the cylinder mount, add an extra strut for symmetry.<br /> <br /> 3. gusset 1/2&quot; x 4&quot; triangle on the rod end mount<br /> <br /> 4. 45 degrees angle on outside hinge to lip mount.<br /> <br /> =14th March, 2014=<br /> tomatoe varieties for OSE - <br /> jetstart<br /> homestead,<br /> bhn 1021<br /> defiant phr<br /> <br /> setting out planting guide for kansas city<br /> http://www.almanac.com/gardening/planting-dates/zipcode/64151<br /> <br /> =13th March, 2014=<br /> Updated cad file and range of motion. Added hinges and correct thicknesses.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_3D_CAD<br /> <br /> [[Image:sketchupModel.png|400px]]<br /> <br /> Collaboration notes: setting up remote collaboration for the design process in solid works can be aided by a synchronized web folder to users local paths. drop box achieves this but has a size limit. we need software that can do that locally to a raid array with offsite backup. Eric Potash suggested aero fs https://www.aerofs.com<br /> We also have http://www.bittorrent.com/sync which looks very promising with redundancy and http://owncloud.org<br /> <br /> Lime wash<br /> <br /> Determined that the 4 parts lime/3 parts water then salt added (salt is 1/5th the lime amount by volume, not weight) is a good mix provided the surface is smooth. On a rough surface this mix is too thick. If the mix is too thick it can crack due to shrinkage after drying.<br /> For a rough surface, this mix instead works - 1 part lime / 1 part water by volume, with salt being the same ratio as before - 1/5th the amount of lime by volume.<br /> It isn't necessary to mix the salt with more water prior to mixing with a drill in both these recipes. this was done on previous days to help mix more evenly, but these mixes are both watery enough to not worry about this.<br /> <br /> Pre misting the area before applying the lime wash prevents cracking significantly. This is done by lightly misting so the soil looks darkened and damp, but not soaking wet which affects the bond negatively. Waiting a while to see it dry a little (~30 seconds) and repeating this 4 or 5 times helps create a deeper bond into to adobe wall when the lime wash is applied.<br /> <br /> Hard synthetic brushes are ok to use only on smoothly rendered stucco, but on mud stucco these can be too abrasive and affect application. softer brushes like the thick ones we use from horse hair apply the mix really smoothly and work really well on both types of surfaces.<br /> <br /> [[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tgDarFYW7hk 4/3 mix failing in divots]]<br /> [[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QrqwRHOAA8s testing with spray]]<br /> <br /> For filling holes with earth plaster, Chris also added that they had success when mixing coarse grain sand with the clayey soil 3/1 and that there was no shrinkage problems when filling holes. they mixed it with their hands. they also sprayed the wall which helped.<br /> <br /> 3D Printer that Coulton fixed!<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MH_0sHNAd9w<br /> <br /> =12th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> *3D range of motion test for hydraulic cylinder.<br /> *http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Opening_Mechanism_Module_-_Calculations<br /> *http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/File:RangeOfMotion.png<br /> *http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Opening_Mechanism_Module_-_Bill_of_Materials<br /> *Hablab whitewash testing - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BiA1LRERXjU&amp;list=UU0Jra6oMPLejbnPr4bzxdpg<br /> <br /> Determined that thick 2 to 1 lime/water ratio is too thick and cracks in some areas. Prepping with misting the adobe layer before limewashing definitely reduces cracking.<br /> We are also testing two recipes for tomorrow. One that is 4/3 Lime/water. The other that is 1/1. We will test both of these to see which works better.<br /> <br /> <br /> =11th March, 2014=<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KjADHmrkFy4<br /> <br /> Tested different whitewash formula. it appeared that thick lime wash was less tolerant of some areas of the wall and was peeling back at some points after some time had passed. We applied a thin whitewash with the consistency of cream or milk at the end to different parts of the wall to see if we could avoid the peeling problem.<br /> <br /> Drew the clamshell mechanism and hinge in sketch up for the Soil Mixer.<br /> <br /> Screenshot<br /> [[Image:WIPsoild_mixer_and_lid.png|200px]]<br /> <br /> <br /> Sketchup in progress<br /> [[File:SoilPulverizerV1s001.skp]]<br /> <br /> =10th March, 2014=<br /> Timelapse of wall painting-<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o4bef_KFQts<br /> <br /> Helped sketch designs for soil mixer.<br /> <br /> Painted wall with Lauren and Cat. (timelapse video in progress)<br /> <br /> Cooked thai style fried rice for dinner.<br /> <br /> Commenced ideation for procedural animation of the GVCS in Houdini for documentation.<br /> <br /> =9th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> [[Soil Mixer Requirements]].<br /> <br /> Append design Rationale -<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_Construction_Set_Requirements<br /> <br /> Laid hay over the ground to stop mud being moved along the path.</div>

Andrew Graham https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Andrew_Graham_Log&diff=119048 2014-04-27T15:19:12Z

<p>Andrew Graham: </p> <hr /> <div>=Ideas to implement=<br /> * Create a sketchup for OSE video to show how to draw with the right accuracy, increase circle segments, use hiding, snapping etc, arcs to measure etc. also how to post the final result using the dozuki cad template<br /> * it may be possible to layout 3D objects from sketchup in free cad to be flat. it could be done dynamically using python script. this would give a proper procedural workflow for dimensioning. doing it manually isn't feasible because adjustments to sketchup files are asking for trouble. When it comes to the cam process you have to do it all over again to ensure you aren't maintaining any old incorrect parts.<br /> http://www.freecadweb.org/wiki/index.php?title=Python_scripting_tutorial<br /> * Build a workflow in Houdini to dynamically build a dxf with dimensioning and instructions for fabrication<br /> * Build a procedural animation tool to follow a spreadsheet for construction order. The result from houdini would be an open GL animation of the build of the model.<br /> * Improve wiki usability with suggested extension by Kunda<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/User_talk:Andrew_Graham<br /> <br /> =To do list=<br /> * look at stucco sprayer<br /> * get dish detergent<br /> * empty ash container.<br /> * hot water flow threshold to turn on is too high. kitchen tap needs to be turned on full for it to work.<br /> * rodent problem -thorough clean of kitchen and seal food away.<br /> * Make a sign to make sure people don't burn treated pine in the fire.<br /> <br /> timezones seem incorrect?<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/File:Soil_Pulverizer.skp<br /> <br /> =27th April, 2014=<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/CEB_Press_6_-_Frame_Module_-_Build_Instructions<br /> <br /> Build process for frame-<br /> *instead of finishing the welds for the vertical supports, it would be better to just tack each seam it in 4-6 spots and then bolt it all together.<br /> *The bolts should be on the interior so that the seams can be welded/finished.<br /> *all the other parts can be finished seperately.<br /> *the tolerance for accuracy on how important a 90 degree angle is on any part, and any spots that need to be ground out should be marked.<br /> <br /> We had a problem in the morning wasting time on a new methos to obtain greater accuracy with levels but we wasted hours on that and couldn't get it going. once we ditched that method and realised we could finish the welds after its bolted we had great velocity. but the momentumdidn't really happen until 2pm.<br /> <br /> =26th April, 2014=<br /> Setup links for all the modules. people need to embed these links into each module build time data page.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/CEB_Press_6_-_Overall_Machine_-_Build_Time_Data<br /> <br /> =25th April, 2014=<br /> created process layout for CEB press<br /> &lt;html&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://docs.google.com/drawings/d/1J3Izbcv5fDy2ITCB9SckSXit6GPZPrTc04xX8Yzs2Fs/pub?w=1651&amp;amp;h=305&quot;&gt;&lt;/html&gt;<br /> https://docs.google.com/drawings/d/1J3Izbcv5fDy2ITCB9SckSXit6GPZPrTc04xX8Yzs2Fs/edit<br /> <br /> =19th April, 2014=<br /> [http://www.xnview.com/en/xnconvert/#downloads xnview] is a must have for all dozuki users<br /> [File:Batch_resize_for_dozuki.xbs]<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/w/images/5/56/Batch_resize_for_dozuki.xbs<br /> <br /> It will resize an entire folder of images and can give a black border to put it in the right ratio for dozuki. It also helps when lots of users are trying to upload at once.<br /> <br /> Microhouse-<br /> because of variation in the concrete foundation, they were re measured on each side and checked against floor modules to see there are no surprises when they slot in.<br /> <br /> because of variation in birck szie we need half bricks to correct as early as possible to prevent parallel lines in the stacks occuring, i suggest that when the CEB press is in auto mode that because the other buttons on the interface are not useful in this state we use them for this - pressing one of these buttons can go to a half size brick mode, and another can go to a third size brick mode. this prevents slow down by getting someone to manually vary the pots when required. we just do a few of these varitions and revert back to normal funcitonality.<br /> <br /> =11th April, 2014=<br /> jar soil test<br /> http://www.ext.colostate.edu/mg/gardennotes/214.html<br /> <br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Bunk_Bed<br /> updated bunk bed sketchup and bom<br /> <br /> <br /> =10th April, 2014=<br /> We finished most of the bucket, all that needs to be done is weld the quick attach plates on the sides after the tractor loads it up.<br /> <br /> We lost a lot of time due to the shaft not being flat all the way across. its important to append this into the instrucitons. we should also note that tynes need to be drilled and then ground out flat, probably best to do it prior to welding the flats on.<br /> also brushing the shaft for a very easy fit for the bearings before fitting anything is an important thing to note for the build.<br /> <br /> we discussed making abox for the gopro hero3.<br /> <br /> the box that comes with it would be fine to just drill a hole in and use the usb cord to extend into a powergorilla or powermonkey. there are a lot of cheaper duplicates around but these are designed to be more ruggedised and have good multi voltage outputs.<br /> this one maybe overkill, but i find it has saved my bacon a number of times. if i forget to charge it its ok, I can run my gopro for maybe 3 days at least before charging again.<br /> https://www.powertraveller.com/en/shop/portable-chargers/professional/powergorilla/<br /> <br /> also the mini or the powermonkey extreme 12v would be adequate for all day timelapse<br /> https://www.powertraveller.com/en/shop/portable-chargers/professional/<br /> <br /> there is also a 3d printed box we could makle from here<br /> https://www.youmagine.com/designs/gopro-hero-3-box<br /> <br /> =9th April, 2014=<br /> need to adjust the build process for tynes. without a flat face, even working with gravity spatter on the nut is a big problem. a more robust process is to drill a hole, then use a grinder/cutter to flatten the area. this means there is no gap where the welds takes place on the nut and using this method they stayed more free<br /> <br /> =8th April, 2014=<br /> Had a very productive build day yesterday on the soil mixer. Things of note were-<br /> Putting the lid on was a bit of a challenge. We had to oxy cut the lid down a little more. we also realised that using clamp on the bottom to rest the lid on was usefull. it was to help get the lid in position with all the other welds for the hinges that need to take place.<br /> I made a mistake by welding the Hinge struts for the cylinder as part of the outside hinges on the lid. the parts look very similar, just a little shorter. it would help if we cut a bit of a different shape in the cad for easy identification. also to make sure everything is numbered.<br /> Putting on the hinges was easier than I thought. You can actually just use clamps or bolt and nuts for each part, keeping them at the 90 degree angle as in the design. Then position them in place getting everything square and tac away. This is all synced up in Trovebox and will be added to the documentation.<br /> <br /> <br /> =5th April, 2014=<br /> one guy got a bond with PLA on his 3d printer directly onto copper at 130C. that means if it works, and im sure it could, we could buy copper sheets directly at the weight price, and print the plastic layer on the back. print the layer on the other side as a resist layer and etch away. this has some potential.<br /> http://hydraraptor.blogspot.com/2010/04/cu-pla.html<br /> <br /> Here is a concept for a self aligning QA Lip<br /> <br /> [[Image:Self Aligning QA Mount.jpg|600px]]<br /> <br /> this can be improved by inverting the wedge and having it internally.<br /> <br /> =4th April, 2014=<br /> Fixed the construction order of the bucket on the dozuki and updated the tines production process to reflect what is happening now.<br /> <br /> Had lots of problems with the wire feeder on the welder today when trying to finish the QA Lip. but we got a lot more done towards the end of the day getting most of the bucket and lip tacked in place. almost ready to start putting on the lid once those welds are finished.<br /> <br /> <br /> =2nd April, 2014=<br /> <br /> today I cut up the larger pieces of stock on the iron worker. but we had a bit of a blocker and that was 2 big pieces that need to be cut with a torch. so we couldn't continue on the main bucket apart form the side walls, but we were busy all day anyway cutting up all the other necessary parts from stock, tubing, and tacking half the teeth.<br /> <br /> I thought this was a good read<br /> <br /> http://www.thefabricator.com/article/arcwelding/22-possible-causes-of-weld-metal-porosity<br /> and this -<br /> http://www.daihen-usa.com/techtips.php<br /> <br /> The first article says porosity is necessarily a deal breaker unless its really bad or a structural requirement<br /> <br /> I learnt to day that having the angle of the tool right made a big difference at about 15 degrees off perpendicular. paint was also causing major problems, so after an initial tack i went grinding along all the seams, welded again and ground out the old bad tacks. <br /> <br /> I know Marcin didn't want us to use the grinder, but it became a necessity with the paint on the rebar that needed to be removed along the seams. I used to grind out heaps of hot water systems I used to find for scrap copper thought so i felt comfortable doing it and it was perfectly safe, I used the small grinder which I'm used to.<br /> <br /> I learnt that when tacking, if it peels a piece back in the other direction after shrinkage, that its better to tack less, just a tiny dot, so that its more malleable. then you can tack the other side more easily without breaking it and then finish with some more solid tacks.<br /> <br /> <br /> =1st April, 2014=<br /> Relocated lots of stuff in the workshop and did some cleanup. Learnt how to weld with Marcin.<br /> <br /> =31st March, 2014=<br /> Upload in progress for a you tube video showing how to produce diagrams in sketchup using scenes for dozuki.<br /> <br /> Finished the dozuki for the Soil Mixer.<br /> <br /> Found an interesting resource on hardening steel<br /> http://www.roymech.co.uk/Useful_Tables/Matter/Hardening.html<br /> <br /> =29th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> Happy birthday to me!<br /> <br /> This shows 3 channel capacitive sensing with an arduino.<br /> http://playground.arduino.cc/Main/CapacitiveSensor?from=Main.CapSense#.UzeQ0dzgg8M<br /> <br /> one thing i wonder about is interference with other objects and people around the table though. when the sense gets near the edges, this could change. i wonder if its being used for this purpose in the real world now how they deal with this issue - if it is an issue that is.<br /> <br /> if the sensor is closer to the plate, with a lower value resistor being used, then this could limit interference.<br /> <br /> using a ring or toroid will have increased sensitivity in the axis perpendicular to the ring. this is because the delta in the field is greater in this axis. good idea!<br /> http://www.agelkom.com.tr/prod02.htm<br /> <br /> you can vary pwm as cutting height is approached to get finer control and slower z speed.<br /> http://www.agelkom.com.tr/cap04_pwm_function.htm<br /> <br /> note aluminium case for shielding of circuit.<br /> http://www.cnc4pc.com/Store/osc/product_info.php?products_id=339?osCsid=9cb438690de2f645e1a951bef1ba4df8<br /> <br /> looking at the material and justins log, i like the idea of using the adafruit ultrasonic range sensor. I drew an idea for some reflector geometry to let us measure a disc pattern instead of a narrow beam.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Ultrasound_Torch_Height_Controller<br /> <br /> its clear that a capacitive solution will require totally different operation when going to a plasma cutter instead of oxy. infact, the capacitive sensor isn't even used - rather the voltage is measured between the torch and table to control height.<br /> <br /> that means two different technologies to achieve the same thing, because you need the capacitive measurement when the torch is off for the initial height.<br /> <br /> i think ultrasonic may be the way to go because it wont be affected by the two different modes of cutting. it could be cheaper, and simpler to maintain.<br /> <br /> you also need to consider height reduction after the cut commences. you could feed an isolated voltage/current measurment to tell the controlled when to drop the torch head.<br /> <br /> shielded cables are a must- some good stuff here, actually a noise reduction bible-<br /> http://www.cnccookbook.com/CCCNCNoise.html<br /> <br /> also<br /> http://www.randyray.com/tmc/rf_shielding.htm<br /> <br /> =28th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> [https://docs.google.com/drawings/d/1IMUu0otp7BRCflIRYKZ1JqR3lF3VF8OBjkPQXPQbV3A/edit created Parallel workflow diagram.] Google draw sucks though. Doesn't know how to filter images for different sizes.<br /> <br /> [http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Build_Instructions embedded this drawing into the build instructions page]<br /> <br /> Added the hinge mechanism and lid build to the dozuki for the soil mixer.<br /> <br /> =27th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> Created bunk bed design. 2 bracket pathways we need to decide on.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Bunk_Bed<br /> <br /> bunk bed specs<br /> 5'2&quot; top level for matress<br /> 1'2&quot; bottom level for matress<br /> 6'4&quot; max height<br /> <br /> moved copy from http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Fabrication_Drawings to http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Build_Instructions<br /> <br /> Setup build instructions for bucket on dozuki<br /> http://opensourceecology.dozuki.com/Guide/Installing+Soil+Mixer+-+Module+-+Bucket+The+soil+pulverizer+bucket/126?revisionid=HEAD<br /> <br /> brief discussion of using internet lines as one connection.<br /> if your going to be paying for 2 internet connections it would be good to load balance them both from one location and distribute it out from there. this would solve the problem of having large numbers of people, and since you are already paying for the second line it makes sense to do it. currently with just 10 users, 50kbit/s up is not going to cut it.<br /> <br /> running ethernet up to the micro house could be done with a switch no more than every 100 meters to boost the signal. if power is an issue power over ethernet could be used also, mentioned in this thread<br /> http://forums.whirlpool.net.au/archive/1164805<br /> <br /> so onto using two connections as one-<br /> <br /> Load balancing is easier than bonding.<br /> <br /> Bonding will double web speed for a single user with 2 internet connections. however this is unnecessary.<br /> <br /> Load balancing will not give you a maximum of 2x the speed for a single, but it will distribute traffic to each of the connections on demand if done correctly. In the real world this means with large numbers of users the web will perform just as well as in bonding. You need to make sure that with 2 connections going in that the load balancing won't just act as a failsafe - switch over to different internet connection if one fails. you want both connections to be used.<br /> <br /> http://www.increasebroadbandspeed.co.uk/what-is-adsl-load-balancing<br /> <br /> if you have a wrt54gl router this might be a good start to figuring this out.<br /> <br /> to achieve this your going to need to position those 2 adsl modems in the same location, before the load balancing hardware - router.<br /> <br /> The ISP doesn't have to know about it if you want to load balance yourself. I believe it can be done without them<br /> <br /> this guy did it with that router-<br /> http://forum.kitz.co.uk/index.php?topic=12308.msg232604#msg232604<br /> <br /> =26th March, 2014=<br /> * Measured out boards for the side rooms.<br /> * Did file format tests import into houdini.<br /> * Spoke to randy on the phone and cuts are ready for pickup. http://www.seamanschuske.com/Seaman_and_Schuske/Welcome.html<br /> <br /> It will now be possible to create a large chunk of the workflow in sketchup for documentation and build procedure. From a base model we can have in the same file procedural references for everything including<br /> *CAD layout for DXF export to CNC.<br /> *exploded view as animation<br /> *fabrication procedure as animation.<br /> *fabrication procedure frames for print manual and dozuki.<br /> <br /> what this means if the base model needs updates, all these dependencies will update too. problems are the plugin is unstable in 2014. it crashes when setting or getting states, using scenes, and also exporting .mp4 doesn't work.<br /> <br /> plan for sketchup video<br /> show dropbox sharing. show scenes, layers groups. show circles and tricks with CAD. show dxf conversion tricks and laying out in sketchup.<br /> <br /> * good sketchup video on scenes<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qEYmiKh-sqs<br /> * groups and components - make sure you know when to use which, or your file will get slow quickly.<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7V_KbxXVt0I<br /> * layers<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fBdP499iw0Y<br /> *speed enhancements<br /> https://sites.google.com/site/sketchupsage/faster<br /> <br /> *dynamic components - pro only<br /> http://help.sketchup.com/en/article/94885<br /> <br /> *plugins<br /> http://sketchucation.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=10&amp;t=36583&amp;p=322249&amp;hilit=+add+hidden+layer+#p322249<br /> <br /> Thinks like the tunes on the rototiller, or grid beam should be designated in sketchup as dynamic components. building them in other software throws away the procedural abitiy of other software, or adding complexity to do it through other plugins to enable software like freecad or open scad.<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;html&gt;&lt;script type=&quot;text/javascript&quot;<br /> data-dozuki-embed='3'<br /> src=&quot;http://d1luk0418egahw.cloudfront.net/static/embed/ifixit-embed.3.js#id=130&amp;site=opensourceecology.dozuki.com&quot;&gt;<br /> &lt;/script&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://opensourceecology.dozuki.com/Guide/Installing+Soil+Mixer+-+Module+-+Toothbar+Teeth/130&quot;&gt;Installing Soil Mixer - Module - Toothbar Teeth&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/html&gt;<br /> <br /> =25th March, 2014=<br /> *updated fabrication procedure text for marcin to review. updated exploded parts diagram and CAM layout numbering. <br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Fabrication_Drawings<br /> *added washers into sketchup file<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_3D_CAD<br /> <br /> *fixed p29 length in cam files to accomodate washers in the hinges<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_CAM<br /> <br /> *Updated cam files protocol<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/CAM_Files_Protocol#Other_Resources<br /> <br /> Note: A lot of time seems to be lost when design changes are made and dependent files on the sketchup such as the dxf, images on the wiki, and wiki uploads to keep everything current need to take place. potentially a more desirable solution would be to have the ability to synchronize all these changes at once.<br /> <br /> =24th March, 2014=<br /> [http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_CAM Updated DXF to send to seaman schuske - Randy Clinton]<br /> *increased the diameter by 1/16th on all the holes except the quick attach mount, and the 3 ground plates because they are already oversized to .625&quot;<br /> <br /> [http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_3D_CAD Updated 3D CAD Sketchup file for exploded diagram and DXF generation]<br /> <br /> <br /> [http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Exploded_Parts_Diagram Updated exploded parts diagram]<br /> <br /> *Updated fabrication diagram text.<br /> <br /> =21th March, 2014=<br /> *Updated exploded view and part numbering.<br /> [[Image:ExplodedView.jpg|400px]]<br /> <br /> *Updated CAM and CAD. Removed extra lines from CAM. fixed radius on motor holes, removed extra motor holes for bolt.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_3D_CAD<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_CAM<br /> <br /> *Added 2nd coat of lime wash to second last room.<br /> *Anthony added first coat of lime wash to last room.<br /> <br /> =20th March, 2014=<br /> *bearing spec for bolt holes is incorrect - should be .625 - http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/File:Bearing178.jpg<br /> *needed to add 4 extra holes into the sidewall<br /> *tested internet, and its not going to be fast enough for a large group of people. good for a few people, up to 4 maybe.<br /> *[http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Exploded_Parts_Diagram Added exploded parts diagram]<br /> *Rubbed out walls in last 2 east rooms. Moved the big glass sheets into the silo. Prepped whitewash and applied into the second last room.<br /> <br /> =19th March, 2014=<br /> *fixed a wheelbarrow axel by replacing the pin and putting 3 large washers on there. After pumping up the tires it'll be good as new.<br /> *mixxed approx 5 shovels of sand to 4-5 shovels of very clayey soil to plaster the window and door on the outside room. this took a lot longer than anticipated to do the job well. plastering on top of the window and door frame required almost 100% clay just to stick, I'm wondering if it will crack but it was the only way it would stick on there even with the wire mesh.<br /> *used sprayer and a damp cloth to smooth out the walls to prep for limewash<br /> *Added suggested ratio to lime wash and plaster ratio suggestion.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Lime_Plaster_and_Wash#BoM<br /> *[http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasertoc.htm came across a sweet link from anthony to make your own laser - laser sam]<br /> <br /> =18th March, 2014=<br /> Uploaded timelapse videos<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kMBSe5V7M8E<br /> <br /> Updated sketchup file to reposition the holes for the mounts. some inaccuracies were present in the components attaching to the shaft.<br /> <br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_3D_CAD<br /> <br /> sketchup note: when creating circles, you must go to window, entity info, chad change the segments from 24 to 48. most circles look like ploys other wise and this will follow through to the machine file.<br /> <br /> Moved everything from the outer rooms into office and silo. took a while because there was a lot of sorting. some things needed to be inside. <br /> <br /> applied lime wash to a wall in the middle room. tomorrow need to smooth out the rendering with a rag. also staple chicken air and get sand from micro house.<br /> <br /> tommorrow - fix sheets and dimensions. get a quote from Justin Fuston<br /> https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0ArpE5Y9PpJCXdGpUZ3dqYWw3czQzZ09IUHFpRl9VT1E#gid=0<br /> <br /> =17th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> Updated CAD. Chamfered corners, removed excess hinge parts, rotated struts 90 degrees. added gussets, but now they may not be necessary with the struts at 90 degrees. easy to remove. stacking of the hinge components around the hydraulic mechanism has been changed for better strength and ease of construction.<br /> <br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_3D_CAD<br /> <br /> This has been fixed. see video! you just need to clear the prefs.<br /> &lt;strike&gt;I also submitted a complaint to google, sketch up 2014 eliminated features in the free version of 2013 so that you have to pay for them. It's no longer possible to export to 3DS and most other pro formats now.&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> <br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A9TdFNZwLtc&amp;feature=em-upload_owner<br /> <br /> &lt;html&gt;<br /> &lt;iframe width=&quot;560&quot; height=&quot;315&quot; src=&quot;//www.youtube.com/embed/A9TdFNZwLtc&quot; frameborder=&quot;0&quot; allowfullscreen&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;<br /> &lt;/html&gt;<br /> <br /> Microhouse-<br /> - Painted walls with white.<br /> <br /> - Moved weights into the silo.<br /> <br /> - prepped lime in 1 to one in the white container.<br /> <br /> =16th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> Added dhal to recipes-<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Recipes<br /> <br /> Fixed vacuum cleaner.<br /> <br /> Setup DIY mouse trap design to drown rodents.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Mouse_trap<br /> <br /> =15th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> Recipe for Dahl. For 8 people.<br /> Awesome vegetarian power food high in protein.<br /> <br /> 4 onions.<br /> <br /> half a bulb of garlic<br /> <br /> 1.5kg lentils or split peas, soaked for as long as you can during the day, overnight if possible. if not, it will just take longer to cook but it works out fine. rinse them thoroughly!<br /> <br /> Coconut oil<br /> <br /> teaspoon whole cumin seeds<br /> <br /> cumin powder<br /> <br /> garam masala<br /> <br /> salt<br /> <br /> pepper<br /> <br /> chilli or cayenne pepper<br /> <br /> turmeric<br /> <br /> sour cream and cilantro for garnish.<br /> <br /> heat the oil and keep an eye on it so it doesn't smoke.<br /> fry the cumin seeds for a bit then add the onions and garlic on high. when the onions are clear to brown colour add 1/2 teaspoons of the rest of the spices and the lentils. add water to the pot until the lentils are just covered.<br /> keep on high heat until it starts to boil, then simmer until the lentils are soft/falling apart. this usually takes an hour.<br /> add to bowls and garnish with the cilantro and sour cream!<br /> <br /> <br /> -------<br /> <br /> <br /> Added large grain sand and clay mix to top right corner of hablab. when dried we added mist and then lime wash. it may need another layer.<br /> <br /> Painted the outside door frames yellow.<br /> <br /> Modifications added to http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Review<br /> <br /> Current design revisions-<br /> <br /> 1. Long reinforcement on edge of lid - 1/4 x 2. Current reinforcement needs to be rotated 90 degrees.<br /> <br /> 2. Centre the cylinder mount, add an extra strut for symmetry.<br /> <br /> 3. gusset 1/2&quot; x 4&quot; triangle on the rod end mount<br /> <br /> 4. 45 degrees angle on outside hinge to lip mount.<br /> <br /> =14th March, 2014=<br /> tomatoe varieties for OSE - <br /> jetstart<br /> homestead,<br /> bhn 1021<br /> defiant phr<br /> <br /> setting out planting guide for kansas city<br /> http://www.almanac.com/gardening/planting-dates/zipcode/64151<br /> <br /> =13th March, 2014=<br /> Updated cad file and range of motion. Added hinges and correct thicknesses.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_3D_CAD<br /> <br /> [[Image:sketchupModel.png|400px]]<br /> <br /> Collaboration notes: setting up remote collaboration for the design process in solid works can be aided by a synchronized web folder to users local paths. drop box achieves this but has a size limit. we need software that can do that locally to a raid array with offsite backup. Eric Potash suggested aero fs https://www.aerofs.com<br /> We also have http://www.bittorrent.com/sync which looks very promising with redundancy and http://owncloud.org<br /> <br /> Lime wash<br /> <br /> Determined that the 4 parts lime/3 parts water then salt added (salt is 1/5th the lime amount by volume, not weight) is a good mix provided the surface is smooth. On a rough surface this mix is too thick. If the mix is too thick it can crack due to shrinkage after drying.<br /> For a rough surface, this mix instead works - 1 part lime / 1 part water by volume, with salt being the same ratio as before - 1/5th the amount of lime by volume.<br /> It isn't necessary to mix the salt with more water prior to mixing with a drill in both these recipes. this was done on previous days to help mix more evenly, but these mixes are both watery enough to not worry about this.<br /> <br /> Pre misting the area before applying the lime wash prevents cracking significantly. This is done by lightly misting so the soil looks darkened and damp, but not soaking wet which affects the bond negatively. Waiting a while to see it dry a little (~30 seconds) and repeating this 4 or 5 times helps create a deeper bond into to adobe wall when the lime wash is applied.<br /> <br /> Hard synthetic brushes are ok to use only on smoothly rendered stucco, but on mud stucco these can be too abrasive and affect application. softer brushes like the thick ones we use from horse hair apply the mix really smoothly and work really well on both types of surfaces.<br /> <br /> [[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tgDarFYW7hk 4/3 mix failing in divots]]<br /> [[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QrqwRHOAA8s testing with spray]]<br /> <br /> For filling holes with earth plaster, Chris also added that they had success when mixing coarse grain sand with the clayey soil 3/1 and that there was no shrinkage problems when filling holes. they mixed it with their hands. they also sprayed the wall which helped.<br /> <br /> 3D Printer that Coulton fixed!<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MH_0sHNAd9w<br /> <br /> =12th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> *3D range of motion test for hydraulic cylinder.<br /> *http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Opening_Mechanism_Module_-_Calculations<br /> *http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/File:RangeOfMotion.png<br /> *http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Opening_Mechanism_Module_-_Bill_of_Materials<br /> *Hablab whitewash testing - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BiA1LRERXjU&amp;list=UU0Jra6oMPLejbnPr4bzxdpg<br /> <br /> Determined that thick 2 to 1 lime/water ratio is too thick and cracks in some areas. Prepping with misting the adobe layer before limewashing definitely reduces cracking.<br /> We are also testing two recipes for tomorrow. One that is 4/3 Lime/water. The other that is 1/1. We will test both of these to see which works better.<br /> <br /> <br /> =11th March, 2014=<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KjADHmrkFy4<br /> <br /> Tested different whitewash formula. it appeared that thick lime wash was less tolerant of some areas of the wall and was peeling back at some points after some time had passed. We applied a thin whitewash with the consistency of cream or milk at the end to different parts of the wall to see if we could avoid the peeling problem.<br /> <br /> Drew the clamshell mechanism and hinge in sketch up for the Soil Mixer.<br /> <br /> Screenshot<br /> [[Image:WIPsoild_mixer_and_lid.png|200px]]<br /> <br /> <br /> Sketchup in progress<br /> [[File:SoilPulverizerV1s001.skp]]<br /> <br /> =10th March, 2014=<br /> Timelapse of wall painting-<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o4bef_KFQts<br /> <br /> Helped sketch designs for soil mixer.<br /> <br /> Painted wall with Lauren and Cat. (timelapse video in progress)<br /> <br /> Cooked thai style fried rice for dinner.<br /> <br /> Commenced ideation for procedural animation of the GVCS in Houdini for documentation.<br /> <br /> =9th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> [[Soil Mixer Requirements]].<br /> <br /> Append design Rationale -<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_Construction_Set_Requirements<br /> <br /> Laid hay over the ground to stop mud being moved along the path.</div>

Andrew Graham https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=CEB_Press_6_-_Frame_Module_-_Build_Instructions&diff=119047 2014-04-27T15:18:43Z

<p>Andrew Graham: </p> <hr /> <div>&lt;html&gt;&lt;iframe src=&quot;https://docs.google.com/document/d/1o1gmjA3iFhLqaTassiFNoQHLEqkKpAEFVbCG29xQm-o/pub?embedded=true&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&lt;/html&gt;<br /> <br /> [https://docs.google.com/document/d/1o1gmjA3iFhLqaTassiFNoQHLEqkKpAEFVbCG29xQm-o/edit edit]</div>

Andrew Graham https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=CEB_Press_6_-_Frame_Module_-_Build_Instructions&diff=119046 2014-04-27T15:18:10Z

<p>Andrew Graham: </p> <hr /> <div>&lt;html&gt;&lt;iframe src=&quot;https://docs.google.com/document/d/1o1gmjA3iFhLqaTassiFNoQHLEqkKpAEFVbCG29xQm-o/pub?embedded=true&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&lt;/html&gt;<br /> <br /> &lt;https://docs.google.com/document/d/1o1gmjA3iFhLqaTassiFNoQHLEqkKpAEFVbCG29xQm-o/edit edit&gt;</div>

Andrew Graham https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=CEB_Press_6_-_Frame_Module_-_Build_Instructions&diff=119045 2014-04-27T15:17:35Z

<p>Andrew Graham: Created page with &quot;&lt;html&gt;&lt;iframe src=&quot;https://docs.google.com/document/d/1o1gmjA3iFhLqaTassiFNoQHLEqkKpAEFVbCG29xQm-o/pub?embedded=true&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&lt;/html&gt;&quot;</p> <hr /> <div>&lt;html&gt;&lt;iframe src=&quot;https://docs.google.com/document/d/1o1gmjA3iFhLqaTassiFNoQHLEqkKpAEFVbCG29xQm-o/pub?embedded=true&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&lt;/html&gt;</div>

Andrew Graham https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Andrew_Graham_Log&diff=119041 2014-04-27T14:50:30Z

<p>Andrew Graham: /* 27th April, 2014 */</p> <hr /> <div>=Ideas to implement=<br /> * Create a sketchup for OSE video to show how to draw with the right accuracy, increase circle segments, use hiding, snapping etc, arcs to measure etc. also how to post the final result using the dozuki cad template<br /> * it may be possible to layout 3D objects from sketchup in free cad to be flat. it could be done dynamically using python script. this would give a proper procedural workflow for dimensioning. doing it manually isn't feasible because adjustments to sketchup files are asking for trouble. When it comes to the cam process you have to do it all over again to ensure you aren't maintaining any old incorrect parts.<br /> http://www.freecadweb.org/wiki/index.php?title=Python_scripting_tutorial<br /> * Build a workflow in Houdini to dynamically build a dxf with dimensioning and instructions for fabrication<br /> * Build a procedural animation tool to follow a spreadsheet for construction order. The result from houdini would be an open GL animation of the build of the model.<br /> * Improve wiki usability with suggested extension by Kunda<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/User_talk:Andrew_Graham<br /> <br /> =To do list=<br /> * look at stucco sprayer<br /> * get dish detergent<br /> * empty ash container.<br /> * hot water flow threshold to turn on is too high. kitchen tap needs to be turned on full for it to work.<br /> * rodent problem -thorough clean of kitchen and seal food away.<br /> * Make a sign to make sure people don't burn treated pine in the fire.<br /> <br /> timezones seem incorrect?<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/File:Soil_Pulverizer.skp<br /> <br /> =27th April, 2014=<br /> Build process for frame-<br /> *instead of finishing the welds for the vertical supports, it would be better to just tack each seam it in 4-6 spots and then bolt it all together.<br /> *The bolts should be on the interior so that the seams can be welded/finished.<br /> *all the other parts can be finished seperately.<br /> *the tolerance for accuracy on how important a 90 degree angle is on any part, and any spots that need to be ground out should be marked.<br /> <br /> We had a problem in the morning wasting time on a new methos to obtain greater accuracy with levels but we wasted hours on that and couldn't get it going. once we ditched that method and realised we could finish the welds after its bolted we had great velocity. but the momentumdidn't really happen until 2pm.<br /> <br /> =26th April, 2014=<br /> Setup links for all the modules. people need to embed these links into each module build time data page.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/CEB_Press_6_-_Overall_Machine_-_Build_Time_Data<br /> <br /> =25th April, 2014=<br /> created process layout for CEB press<br /> &lt;html&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://docs.google.com/drawings/d/1J3Izbcv5fDy2ITCB9SckSXit6GPZPrTc04xX8Yzs2Fs/pub?w=1651&amp;amp;h=305&quot;&gt;&lt;/html&gt;<br /> https://docs.google.com/drawings/d/1J3Izbcv5fDy2ITCB9SckSXit6GPZPrTc04xX8Yzs2Fs/edit<br /> <br /> =19th April, 2014=<br /> [http://www.xnview.com/en/xnconvert/#downloads xnview] is a must have for all dozuki users<br /> [File:Batch_resize_for_dozuki.xbs]<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/w/images/5/56/Batch_resize_for_dozuki.xbs<br /> <br /> It will resize an entire folder of images and can give a black border to put it in the right ratio for dozuki. It also helps when lots of users are trying to upload at once.<br /> <br /> Microhouse-<br /> because of variation in the concrete foundation, they were re measured on each side and checked against floor modules to see there are no surprises when they slot in.<br /> <br /> because of variation in birck szie we need half bricks to correct as early as possible to prevent parallel lines in the stacks occuring, i suggest that when the CEB press is in auto mode that because the other buttons on the interface are not useful in this state we use them for this - pressing one of these buttons can go to a half size brick mode, and another can go to a third size brick mode. this prevents slow down by getting someone to manually vary the pots when required. we just do a few of these varitions and revert back to normal funcitonality.<br /> <br /> =11th April, 2014=<br /> jar soil test<br /> http://www.ext.colostate.edu/mg/gardennotes/214.html<br /> <br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Bunk_Bed<br /> updated bunk bed sketchup and bom<br /> <br /> <br /> =10th April, 2014=<br /> We finished most of the bucket, all that needs to be done is weld the quick attach plates on the sides after the tractor loads it up.<br /> <br /> We lost a lot of time due to the shaft not being flat all the way across. its important to append this into the instrucitons. we should also note that tynes need to be drilled and then ground out flat, probably best to do it prior to welding the flats on.<br /> also brushing the shaft for a very easy fit for the bearings before fitting anything is an important thing to note for the build.<br /> <br /> we discussed making abox for the gopro hero3.<br /> <br /> the box that comes with it would be fine to just drill a hole in and use the usb cord to extend into a powergorilla or powermonkey. there are a lot of cheaper duplicates around but these are designed to be more ruggedised and have good multi voltage outputs.<br /> this one maybe overkill, but i find it has saved my bacon a number of times. if i forget to charge it its ok, I can run my gopro for maybe 3 days at least before charging again.<br /> https://www.powertraveller.com/en/shop/portable-chargers/professional/powergorilla/<br /> <br /> also the mini or the powermonkey extreme 12v would be adequate for all day timelapse<br /> https://www.powertraveller.com/en/shop/portable-chargers/professional/<br /> <br /> there is also a 3d printed box we could makle from here<br /> https://www.youmagine.com/designs/gopro-hero-3-box<br /> <br /> =9th April, 2014=<br /> need to adjust the build process for tynes. without a flat face, even working with gravity spatter on the nut is a big problem. a more robust process is to drill a hole, then use a grinder/cutter to flatten the area. this means there is no gap where the welds takes place on the nut and using this method they stayed more free<br /> <br /> =8th April, 2014=<br /> Had a very productive build day yesterday on the soil mixer. Things of note were-<br /> Putting the lid on was a bit of a challenge. We had to oxy cut the lid down a little more. we also realised that using clamp on the bottom to rest the lid on was usefull. it was to help get the lid in position with all the other welds for the hinges that need to take place.<br /> I made a mistake by welding the Hinge struts for the cylinder as part of the outside hinges on the lid. the parts look very similar, just a little shorter. it would help if we cut a bit of a different shape in the cad for easy identification. also to make sure everything is numbered.<br /> Putting on the hinges was easier than I thought. You can actually just use clamps or bolt and nuts for each part, keeping them at the 90 degree angle as in the design. Then position them in place getting everything square and tac away. This is all synced up in Trovebox and will be added to the documentation.<br /> <br /> <br /> =5th April, 2014=<br /> one guy got a bond with PLA on his 3d printer directly onto copper at 130C. that means if it works, and im sure it could, we could buy copper sheets directly at the weight price, and print the plastic layer on the back. print the layer on the other side as a resist layer and etch away. this has some potential.<br /> http://hydraraptor.blogspot.com/2010/04/cu-pla.html<br /> <br /> Here is a concept for a self aligning QA Lip<br /> <br /> [[Image:Self Aligning QA Mount.jpg|600px]]<br /> <br /> this can be improved by inverting the wedge and having it internally.<br /> <br /> =4th April, 2014=<br /> Fixed the construction order of the bucket on the dozuki and updated the tines production process to reflect what is happening now.<br /> <br /> Had lots of problems with the wire feeder on the welder today when trying to finish the QA Lip. but we got a lot more done towards the end of the day getting most of the bucket and lip tacked in place. almost ready to start putting on the lid once those welds are finished.<br /> <br /> <br /> =2nd April, 2014=<br /> <br /> today I cut up the larger pieces of stock on the iron worker. but we had a bit of a blocker and that was 2 big pieces that need to be cut with a torch. so we couldn't continue on the main bucket apart form the side walls, but we were busy all day anyway cutting up all the other necessary parts from stock, tubing, and tacking half the teeth.<br /> <br /> I thought this was a good read<br /> <br /> http://www.thefabricator.com/article/arcwelding/22-possible-causes-of-weld-metal-porosity<br /> and this -<br /> http://www.daihen-usa.com/techtips.php<br /> <br /> The first article says porosity is necessarily a deal breaker unless its really bad or a structural requirement<br /> <br /> I learnt to day that having the angle of the tool right made a big difference at about 15 degrees off perpendicular. paint was also causing major problems, so after an initial tack i went grinding along all the seams, welded again and ground out the old bad tacks. <br /> <br /> I know Marcin didn't want us to use the grinder, but it became a necessity with the paint on the rebar that needed to be removed along the seams. I used to grind out heaps of hot water systems I used to find for scrap copper thought so i felt comfortable doing it and it was perfectly safe, I used the small grinder which I'm used to.<br /> <br /> I learnt that when tacking, if it peels a piece back in the other direction after shrinkage, that its better to tack less, just a tiny dot, so that its more malleable. then you can tack the other side more easily without breaking it and then finish with some more solid tacks.<br /> <br /> <br /> =1st April, 2014=<br /> Relocated lots of stuff in the workshop and did some cleanup. Learnt how to weld with Marcin.<br /> <br /> =31st March, 2014=<br /> Upload in progress for a you tube video showing how to produce diagrams in sketchup using scenes for dozuki.<br /> <br /> Finished the dozuki for the Soil Mixer.<br /> <br /> Found an interesting resource on hardening steel<br /> http://www.roymech.co.uk/Useful_Tables/Matter/Hardening.html<br /> <br /> =29th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> Happy birthday to me!<br /> <br /> This shows 3 channel capacitive sensing with an arduino.<br /> http://playground.arduino.cc/Main/CapacitiveSensor?from=Main.CapSense#.UzeQ0dzgg8M<br /> <br /> one thing i wonder about is interference with other objects and people around the table though. when the sense gets near the edges, this could change. i wonder if its being used for this purpose in the real world now how they deal with this issue - if it is an issue that is.<br /> <br /> if the sensor is closer to the plate, with a lower value resistor being used, then this could limit interference.<br /> <br /> using a ring or toroid will have increased sensitivity in the axis perpendicular to the ring. this is because the delta in the field is greater in this axis. good idea!<br /> http://www.agelkom.com.tr/prod02.htm<br /> <br /> you can vary pwm as cutting height is approached to get finer control and slower z speed.<br /> http://www.agelkom.com.tr/cap04_pwm_function.htm<br /> <br /> note aluminium case for shielding of circuit.<br /> http://www.cnc4pc.com/Store/osc/product_info.php?products_id=339?osCsid=9cb438690de2f645e1a951bef1ba4df8<br /> <br /> looking at the material and justins log, i like the idea of using the adafruit ultrasonic range sensor. I drew an idea for some reflector geometry to let us measure a disc pattern instead of a narrow beam.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Ultrasound_Torch_Height_Controller<br /> <br /> its clear that a capacitive solution will require totally different operation when going to a plasma cutter instead of oxy. infact, the capacitive sensor isn't even used - rather the voltage is measured between the torch and table to control height.<br /> <br /> that means two different technologies to achieve the same thing, because you need the capacitive measurement when the torch is off for the initial height.<br /> <br /> i think ultrasonic may be the way to go because it wont be affected by the two different modes of cutting. it could be cheaper, and simpler to maintain.<br /> <br /> you also need to consider height reduction after the cut commences. you could feed an isolated voltage/current measurment to tell the controlled when to drop the torch head.<br /> <br /> shielded cables are a must- some good stuff here, actually a noise reduction bible-<br /> http://www.cnccookbook.com/CCCNCNoise.html<br /> <br /> also<br /> http://www.randyray.com/tmc/rf_shielding.htm<br /> <br /> =28th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> [https://docs.google.com/drawings/d/1IMUu0otp7BRCflIRYKZ1JqR3lF3VF8OBjkPQXPQbV3A/edit created Parallel workflow diagram.] Google draw sucks though. Doesn't know how to filter images for different sizes.<br /> <br /> [http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Build_Instructions embedded this drawing into the build instructions page]<br /> <br /> Added the hinge mechanism and lid build to the dozuki for the soil mixer.<br /> <br /> =27th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> Created bunk bed design. 2 bracket pathways we need to decide on.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Bunk_Bed<br /> <br /> bunk bed specs<br /> 5'2&quot; top level for matress<br /> 1'2&quot; bottom level for matress<br /> 6'4&quot; max height<br /> <br /> moved copy from http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Fabrication_Drawings to http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Build_Instructions<br /> <br /> Setup build instructions for bucket on dozuki<br /> http://opensourceecology.dozuki.com/Guide/Installing+Soil+Mixer+-+Module+-+Bucket+The+soil+pulverizer+bucket/126?revisionid=HEAD<br /> <br /> brief discussion of using internet lines as one connection.<br /> if your going to be paying for 2 internet connections it would be good to load balance them both from one location and distribute it out from there. this would solve the problem of having large numbers of people, and since you are already paying for the second line it makes sense to do it. currently with just 10 users, 50kbit/s up is not going to cut it.<br /> <br /> running ethernet up to the micro house could be done with a switch no more than every 100 meters to boost the signal. if power is an issue power over ethernet could be used also, mentioned in this thread<br /> http://forums.whirlpool.net.au/archive/1164805<br /> <br /> so onto using two connections as one-<br /> <br /> Load balancing is easier than bonding.<br /> <br /> Bonding will double web speed for a single user with 2 internet connections. however this is unnecessary.<br /> <br /> Load balancing will not give you a maximum of 2x the speed for a single, but it will distribute traffic to each of the connections on demand if done correctly. In the real world this means with large numbers of users the web will perform just as well as in bonding. You need to make sure that with 2 connections going in that the load balancing won't just act as a failsafe - switch over to different internet connection if one fails. you want both connections to be used.<br /> <br /> http://www.increasebroadbandspeed.co.uk/what-is-adsl-load-balancing<br /> <br /> if you have a wrt54gl router this might be a good start to figuring this out.<br /> <br /> to achieve this your going to need to position those 2 adsl modems in the same location, before the load balancing hardware - router.<br /> <br /> The ISP doesn't have to know about it if you want to load balance yourself. I believe it can be done without them<br /> <br /> this guy did it with that router-<br /> http://forum.kitz.co.uk/index.php?topic=12308.msg232604#msg232604<br /> <br /> =26th March, 2014=<br /> * Measured out boards for the side rooms.<br /> * Did file format tests import into houdini.<br /> * Spoke to randy on the phone and cuts are ready for pickup. http://www.seamanschuske.com/Seaman_and_Schuske/Welcome.html<br /> <br /> It will now be possible to create a large chunk of the workflow in sketchup for documentation and build procedure. From a base model we can have in the same file procedural references for everything including<br /> *CAD layout for DXF export to CNC.<br /> *exploded view as animation<br /> *fabrication procedure as animation.<br /> *fabrication procedure frames for print manual and dozuki.<br /> <br /> what this means if the base model needs updates, all these dependencies will update too. problems are the plugin is unstable in 2014. it crashes when setting or getting states, using scenes, and also exporting .mp4 doesn't work.<br /> <br /> plan for sketchup video<br /> show dropbox sharing. show scenes, layers groups. show circles and tricks with CAD. show dxf conversion tricks and laying out in sketchup.<br /> <br /> * good sketchup video on scenes<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qEYmiKh-sqs<br /> * groups and components - make sure you know when to use which, or your file will get slow quickly.<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7V_KbxXVt0I<br /> * layers<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fBdP499iw0Y<br /> *speed enhancements<br /> https://sites.google.com/site/sketchupsage/faster<br /> <br /> *dynamic components - pro only<br /> http://help.sketchup.com/en/article/94885<br /> <br /> *plugins<br /> http://sketchucation.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=10&amp;t=36583&amp;p=322249&amp;hilit=+add+hidden+layer+#p322249<br /> <br /> Thinks like the tunes on the rototiller, or grid beam should be designated in sketchup as dynamic components. building them in other software throws away the procedural abitiy of other software, or adding complexity to do it through other plugins to enable software like freecad or open scad.<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;html&gt;&lt;script type=&quot;text/javascript&quot;<br /> data-dozuki-embed='3'<br /> src=&quot;http://d1luk0418egahw.cloudfront.net/static/embed/ifixit-embed.3.js#id=130&amp;site=opensourceecology.dozuki.com&quot;&gt;<br /> &lt;/script&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://opensourceecology.dozuki.com/Guide/Installing+Soil+Mixer+-+Module+-+Toothbar+Teeth/130&quot;&gt;Installing Soil Mixer - Module - Toothbar Teeth&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/html&gt;<br /> <br /> =25th March, 2014=<br /> *updated fabrication procedure text for marcin to review. updated exploded parts diagram and CAM layout numbering. <br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Fabrication_Drawings<br /> *added washers into sketchup file<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_3D_CAD<br /> <br /> *fixed p29 length in cam files to accomodate washers in the hinges<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_CAM<br /> <br /> *Updated cam files protocol<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/CAM_Files_Protocol#Other_Resources<br /> <br /> Note: A lot of time seems to be lost when design changes are made and dependent files on the sketchup such as the dxf, images on the wiki, and wiki uploads to keep everything current need to take place. potentially a more desirable solution would be to have the ability to synchronize all these changes at once.<br /> <br /> =24th March, 2014=<br /> [http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_CAM Updated DXF to send to seaman schuske - Randy Clinton]<br /> *increased the diameter by 1/16th on all the holes except the quick attach mount, and the 3 ground plates because they are already oversized to .625&quot;<br /> <br /> [http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_3D_CAD Updated 3D CAD Sketchup file for exploded diagram and DXF generation]<br /> <br /> <br /> [http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Exploded_Parts_Diagram Updated exploded parts diagram]<br /> <br /> *Updated fabrication diagram text.<br /> <br /> =21th March, 2014=<br /> *Updated exploded view and part numbering.<br /> [[Image:ExplodedView.jpg|400px]]<br /> <br /> *Updated CAM and CAD. Removed extra lines from CAM. fixed radius on motor holes, removed extra motor holes for bolt.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_3D_CAD<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_CAM<br /> <br /> *Added 2nd coat of lime wash to second last room.<br /> *Anthony added first coat of lime wash to last room.<br /> <br /> =20th March, 2014=<br /> *bearing spec for bolt holes is incorrect - should be .625 - http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/File:Bearing178.jpg<br /> *needed to add 4 extra holes into the sidewall<br /> *tested internet, and its not going to be fast enough for a large group of people. good for a few people, up to 4 maybe.<br /> *[http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Exploded_Parts_Diagram Added exploded parts diagram]<br /> *Rubbed out walls in last 2 east rooms. Moved the big glass sheets into the silo. Prepped whitewash and applied into the second last room.<br /> <br /> =19th March, 2014=<br /> *fixed a wheelbarrow axel by replacing the pin and putting 3 large washers on there. After pumping up the tires it'll be good as new.<br /> *mixxed approx 5 shovels of sand to 4-5 shovels of very clayey soil to plaster the window and door on the outside room. this took a lot longer than anticipated to do the job well. plastering on top of the window and door frame required almost 100% clay just to stick, I'm wondering if it will crack but it was the only way it would stick on there even with the wire mesh.<br /> *used sprayer and a damp cloth to smooth out the walls to prep for limewash<br /> *Added suggested ratio to lime wash and plaster ratio suggestion.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Lime_Plaster_and_Wash#BoM<br /> *[http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasertoc.htm came across a sweet link from anthony to make your own laser - laser sam]<br /> <br /> =18th March, 2014=<br /> Uploaded timelapse videos<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kMBSe5V7M8E<br /> <br /> Updated sketchup file to reposition the holes for the mounts. some inaccuracies were present in the components attaching to the shaft.<br /> <br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_3D_CAD<br /> <br /> sketchup note: when creating circles, you must go to window, entity info, chad change the segments from 24 to 48. most circles look like ploys other wise and this will follow through to the machine file.<br /> <br /> Moved everything from the outer rooms into office and silo. took a while because there was a lot of sorting. some things needed to be inside. <br /> <br /> applied lime wash to a wall in the middle room. tomorrow need to smooth out the rendering with a rag. also staple chicken air and get sand from micro house.<br /> <br /> tommorrow - fix sheets and dimensions. get a quote from Justin Fuston<br /> https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0ArpE5Y9PpJCXdGpUZ3dqYWw3czQzZ09IUHFpRl9VT1E#gid=0<br /> <br /> =17th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> Updated CAD. Chamfered corners, removed excess hinge parts, rotated struts 90 degrees. added gussets, but now they may not be necessary with the struts at 90 degrees. easy to remove. stacking of the hinge components around the hydraulic mechanism has been changed for better strength and ease of construction.<br /> <br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_3D_CAD<br /> <br /> This has been fixed. see video! you just need to clear the prefs.<br /> &lt;strike&gt;I also submitted a complaint to google, sketch up 2014 eliminated features in the free version of 2013 so that you have to pay for them. It's no longer possible to export to 3DS and most other pro formats now.&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> <br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A9TdFNZwLtc&amp;feature=em-upload_owner<br /> <br /> &lt;html&gt;<br /> &lt;iframe width=&quot;560&quot; height=&quot;315&quot; src=&quot;//www.youtube.com/embed/A9TdFNZwLtc&quot; frameborder=&quot;0&quot; allowfullscreen&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;<br /> &lt;/html&gt;<br /> <br /> Microhouse-<br /> - Painted walls with white.<br /> <br /> - Moved weights into the silo.<br /> <br /> - prepped lime in 1 to one in the white container.<br /> <br /> =16th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> Added dhal to recipes-<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Recipes<br /> <br /> Fixed vacuum cleaner.<br /> <br /> Setup DIY mouse trap design to drown rodents.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Mouse_trap<br /> <br /> =15th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> Recipe for Dahl. For 8 people.<br /> Awesome vegetarian power food high in protein.<br /> <br /> 4 onions.<br /> <br /> half a bulb of garlic<br /> <br /> 1.5kg lentils or split peas, soaked for as long as you can during the day, overnight if possible. if not, it will just take longer to cook but it works out fine. rinse them thoroughly!<br /> <br /> Coconut oil<br /> <br /> teaspoon whole cumin seeds<br /> <br /> cumin powder<br /> <br /> garam masala<br /> <br /> salt<br /> <br /> pepper<br /> <br /> chilli or cayenne pepper<br /> <br /> turmeric<br /> <br /> sour cream and cilantro for garnish.<br /> <br /> heat the oil and keep an eye on it so it doesn't smoke.<br /> fry the cumin seeds for a bit then add the onions and garlic on high. when the onions are clear to brown colour add 1/2 teaspoons of the rest of the spices and the lentils. add water to the pot until the lentils are just covered.<br /> keep on high heat until it starts to boil, then simmer until the lentils are soft/falling apart. this usually takes an hour.<br /> add to bowls and garnish with the cilantro and sour cream!<br /> <br /> <br /> -------<br /> <br /> <br /> Added large grain sand and clay mix to top right corner of hablab. when dried we added mist and then lime wash. it may need another layer.<br /> <br /> Painted the outside door frames yellow.<br /> <br /> Modifications added to http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Review<br /> <br /> Current design revisions-<br /> <br /> 1. Long reinforcement on edge of lid - 1/4 x 2. Current reinforcement needs to be rotated 90 degrees.<br /> <br /> 2. Centre the cylinder mount, add an extra strut for symmetry.<br /> <br /> 3. gusset 1/2&quot; x 4&quot; triangle on the rod end mount<br /> <br /> 4. 45 degrees angle on outside hinge to lip mount.<br /> <br /> =14th March, 2014=<br /> tomatoe varieties for OSE - <br /> jetstart<br /> homestead,<br /> bhn 1021<br /> defiant phr<br /> <br /> setting out planting guide for kansas city<br /> http://www.almanac.com/gardening/planting-dates/zipcode/64151<br /> <br /> =13th March, 2014=<br /> Updated cad file and range of motion. Added hinges and correct thicknesses.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_3D_CAD<br /> <br /> [[Image:sketchupModel.png|400px]]<br /> <br /> Collaboration notes: setting up remote collaboration for the design process in solid works can be aided by a synchronized web folder to users local paths. drop box achieves this but has a size limit. we need software that can do that locally to a raid array with offsite backup. Eric Potash suggested aero fs https://www.aerofs.com<br /> We also have http://www.bittorrent.com/sync which looks very promising with redundancy and http://owncloud.org<br /> <br /> Lime wash<br /> <br /> Determined that the 4 parts lime/3 parts water then salt added (salt is 1/5th the lime amount by volume, not weight) is a good mix provided the surface is smooth. On a rough surface this mix is too thick. If the mix is too thick it can crack due to shrinkage after drying.<br /> For a rough surface, this mix instead works - 1 part lime / 1 part water by volume, with salt being the same ratio as before - 1/5th the amount of lime by volume.<br /> It isn't necessary to mix the salt with more water prior to mixing with a drill in both these recipes. this was done on previous days to help mix more evenly, but these mixes are both watery enough to not worry about this.<br /> <br /> Pre misting the area before applying the lime wash prevents cracking significantly. This is done by lightly misting so the soil looks darkened and damp, but not soaking wet which affects the bond negatively. Waiting a while to see it dry a little (~30 seconds) and repeating this 4 or 5 times helps create a deeper bond into to adobe wall when the lime wash is applied.<br /> <br /> Hard synthetic brushes are ok to use only on smoothly rendered stucco, but on mud stucco these can be too abrasive and affect application. softer brushes like the thick ones we use from horse hair apply the mix really smoothly and work really well on both types of surfaces.<br /> <br /> [[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tgDarFYW7hk 4/3 mix failing in divots]]<br /> [[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QrqwRHOAA8s testing with spray]]<br /> <br /> For filling holes with earth plaster, Chris also added that they had success when mixing coarse grain sand with the clayey soil 3/1 and that there was no shrinkage problems when filling holes. they mixed it with their hands. they also sprayed the wall which helped.<br /> <br /> 3D Printer that Coulton fixed!<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MH_0sHNAd9w<br /> <br /> =12th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> *3D range of motion test for hydraulic cylinder.<br /> *http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Opening_Mechanism_Module_-_Calculations<br /> *http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/File:RangeOfMotion.png<br /> *http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Opening_Mechanism_Module_-_Bill_of_Materials<br /> *Hablab whitewash testing - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BiA1LRERXjU&amp;list=UU0Jra6oMPLejbnPr4bzxdpg<br /> <br /> Determined that thick 2 to 1 lime/water ratio is too thick and cracks in some areas. Prepping with misting the adobe layer before limewashing definitely reduces cracking.<br /> We are also testing two recipes for tomorrow. One that is 4/3 Lime/water. The other that is 1/1. We will test both of these to see which works better.<br /> <br /> <br /> =11th March, 2014=<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KjADHmrkFy4<br /> <br /> Tested different whitewash formula. it appeared that thick lime wash was less tolerant of some areas of the wall and was peeling back at some points after some time had passed. We applied a thin whitewash with the consistency of cream or milk at the end to different parts of the wall to see if we could avoid the peeling problem.<br /> <br /> Drew the clamshell mechanism and hinge in sketch up for the Soil Mixer.<br /> <br /> Screenshot<br /> [[Image:WIPsoild_mixer_and_lid.png|200px]]<br /> <br /> <br /> Sketchup in progress<br /> [[File:SoilPulverizerV1s001.skp]]<br /> <br /> =10th March, 2014=<br /> Timelapse of wall painting-<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o4bef_KFQts<br /> <br /> Helped sketch designs for soil mixer.<br /> <br /> Painted wall with Lauren and Cat. (timelapse video in progress)<br /> <br /> Cooked thai style fried rice for dinner.<br /> <br /> Commenced ideation for procedural animation of the GVCS in Houdini for documentation.<br /> <br /> =9th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> [[Soil Mixer Requirements]].<br /> <br /> Append design Rationale -<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_Construction_Set_Requirements<br /> <br /> Laid hay over the ground to stop mud being moved along the path.</div>

Andrew Graham https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Andrew_Graham_Log&diff=119040 2014-04-27T14:49:51Z

<p>Andrew Graham: /* 27th April, 2014 */</p> <hr /> <div>=Ideas to implement=<br /> * Create a sketchup for OSE video to show how to draw with the right accuracy, increase circle segments, use hiding, snapping etc, arcs to measure etc. also how to post the final result using the dozuki cad template<br /> * it may be possible to layout 3D objects from sketchup in free cad to be flat. it could be done dynamically using python script. this would give a proper procedural workflow for dimensioning. doing it manually isn't feasible because adjustments to sketchup files are asking for trouble. When it comes to the cam process you have to do it all over again to ensure you aren't maintaining any old incorrect parts.<br /> http://www.freecadweb.org/wiki/index.php?title=Python_scripting_tutorial<br /> * Build a workflow in Houdini to dynamically build a dxf with dimensioning and instructions for fabrication<br /> * Build a procedural animation tool to follow a spreadsheet for construction order. The result from houdini would be an open GL animation of the build of the model.<br /> * Improve wiki usability with suggested extension by Kunda<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/User_talk:Andrew_Graham<br /> <br /> =To do list=<br /> * look at stucco sprayer<br /> * get dish detergent<br /> * empty ash container.<br /> * hot water flow threshold to turn on is too high. kitchen tap needs to be turned on full for it to work.<br /> * rodent problem -thorough clean of kitchen and seal food away.<br /> * Make a sign to make sure people don't burn treated pine in the fire.<br /> <br /> timezones seem incorrect?<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/File:Soil_Pulverizer.skp<br /> <br /> =27th April, 2014=<br /> Build process for frame-<br /> instead of finishing the welds for the vertical supports, it would be better to just tack each seam it in 4-6 spots and then bolt it all together.<br /> The bolts should be on the interior so that the seams can be welded/finished.<br /> all the other parts can be finished seperately.<br /> the tolerance for accuracy on how important a 90 degree angle is on any part, and any spots that need to be ground out should be marked.<br /> <br /> We had a problem in the morning wasting time on a new methos to obtain greater accuracy with levels but we wasted hours on that and couldn't get it going. once we ditched that method and realised we could finish the welds after its bolted we had great velocity. but the momentumdidn't really happen until 2pm.<br /> <br /> =26th April, 2014=<br /> Setup links for all the modules. people need to embed these links into each module build time data page.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/CEB_Press_6_-_Overall_Machine_-_Build_Time_Data<br /> <br /> =25th April, 2014=<br /> created process layout for CEB press<br /> &lt;html&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://docs.google.com/drawings/d/1J3Izbcv5fDy2ITCB9SckSXit6GPZPrTc04xX8Yzs2Fs/pub?w=1651&amp;amp;h=305&quot;&gt;&lt;/html&gt;<br /> https://docs.google.com/drawings/d/1J3Izbcv5fDy2ITCB9SckSXit6GPZPrTc04xX8Yzs2Fs/edit<br /> <br /> =19th April, 2014=<br /> [http://www.xnview.com/en/xnconvert/#downloads xnview] is a must have for all dozuki users<br /> [File:Batch_resize_for_dozuki.xbs]<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/w/images/5/56/Batch_resize_for_dozuki.xbs<br /> <br /> It will resize an entire folder of images and can give a black border to put it in the right ratio for dozuki. It also helps when lots of users are trying to upload at once.<br /> <br /> Microhouse-<br /> because of variation in the concrete foundation, they were re measured on each side and checked against floor modules to see there are no surprises when they slot in.<br /> <br /> because of variation in birck szie we need half bricks to correct as early as possible to prevent parallel lines in the stacks occuring, i suggest that when the CEB press is in auto mode that because the other buttons on the interface are not useful in this state we use them for this - pressing one of these buttons can go to a half size brick mode, and another can go to a third size brick mode. this prevents slow down by getting someone to manually vary the pots when required. we just do a few of these varitions and revert back to normal funcitonality.<br /> <br /> =11th April, 2014=<br /> jar soil test<br /> http://www.ext.colostate.edu/mg/gardennotes/214.html<br /> <br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Bunk_Bed<br /> updated bunk bed sketchup and bom<br /> <br /> <br /> =10th April, 2014=<br /> We finished most of the bucket, all that needs to be done is weld the quick attach plates on the sides after the tractor loads it up.<br /> <br /> We lost a lot of time due to the shaft not being flat all the way across. its important to append this into the instrucitons. we should also note that tynes need to be drilled and then ground out flat, probably best to do it prior to welding the flats on.<br /> also brushing the shaft for a very easy fit for the bearings before fitting anything is an important thing to note for the build.<br /> <br /> we discussed making abox for the gopro hero3.<br /> <br /> the box that comes with it would be fine to just drill a hole in and use the usb cord to extend into a powergorilla or powermonkey. there are a lot of cheaper duplicates around but these are designed to be more ruggedised and have good multi voltage outputs.<br /> this one maybe overkill, but i find it has saved my bacon a number of times. if i forget to charge it its ok, I can run my gopro for maybe 3 days at least before charging again.<br /> https://www.powertraveller.com/en/shop/portable-chargers/professional/powergorilla/<br /> <br /> also the mini or the powermonkey extreme 12v would be adequate for all day timelapse<br /> https://www.powertraveller.com/en/shop/portable-chargers/professional/<br /> <br /> there is also a 3d printed box we could makle from here<br /> https://www.youmagine.com/designs/gopro-hero-3-box<br /> <br /> =9th April, 2014=<br /> need to adjust the build process for tynes. without a flat face, even working with gravity spatter on the nut is a big problem. a more robust process is to drill a hole, then use a grinder/cutter to flatten the area. this means there is no gap where the welds takes place on the nut and using this method they stayed more free<br /> <br /> =8th April, 2014=<br /> Had a very productive build day yesterday on the soil mixer. Things of note were-<br /> Putting the lid on was a bit of a challenge. We had to oxy cut the lid down a little more. we also realised that using clamp on the bottom to rest the lid on was usefull. it was to help get the lid in position with all the other welds for the hinges that need to take place.<br /> I made a mistake by welding the Hinge struts for the cylinder as part of the outside hinges on the lid. the parts look very similar, just a little shorter. it would help if we cut a bit of a different shape in the cad for easy identification. also to make sure everything is numbered.<br /> Putting on the hinges was easier than I thought. You can actually just use clamps or bolt and nuts for each part, keeping them at the 90 degree angle as in the design. Then position them in place getting everything square and tac away. This is all synced up in Trovebox and will be added to the documentation.<br /> <br /> <br /> =5th April, 2014=<br /> one guy got a bond with PLA on his 3d printer directly onto copper at 130C. that means if it works, and im sure it could, we could buy copper sheets directly at the weight price, and print the plastic layer on the back. print the layer on the other side as a resist layer and etch away. this has some potential.<br /> http://hydraraptor.blogspot.com/2010/04/cu-pla.html<br /> <br /> Here is a concept for a self aligning QA Lip<br /> <br /> [[Image:Self Aligning QA Mount.jpg|600px]]<br /> <br /> this can be improved by inverting the wedge and having it internally.<br /> <br /> =4th April, 2014=<br /> Fixed the construction order of the bucket on the dozuki and updated the tines production process to reflect what is happening now.<br /> <br /> Had lots of problems with the wire feeder on the welder today when trying to finish the QA Lip. but we got a lot more done towards the end of the day getting most of the bucket and lip tacked in place. almost ready to start putting on the lid once those welds are finished.<br /> <br /> <br /> =2nd April, 2014=<br /> <br /> today I cut up the larger pieces of stock on the iron worker. but we had a bit of a blocker and that was 2 big pieces that need to be cut with a torch. so we couldn't continue on the main bucket apart form the side walls, but we were busy all day anyway cutting up all the other necessary parts from stock, tubing, and tacking half the teeth.<br /> <br /> I thought this was a good read<br /> <br /> http://www.thefabricator.com/article/arcwelding/22-possible-causes-of-weld-metal-porosity<br /> and this -<br /> http://www.daihen-usa.com/techtips.php<br /> <br /> The first article says porosity is necessarily a deal breaker unless its really bad or a structural requirement<br /> <br /> I learnt to day that having the angle of the tool right made a big difference at about 15 degrees off perpendicular. paint was also causing major problems, so after an initial tack i went grinding along all the seams, welded again and ground out the old bad tacks. <br /> <br /> I know Marcin didn't want us to use the grinder, but it became a necessity with the paint on the rebar that needed to be removed along the seams. I used to grind out heaps of hot water systems I used to find for scrap copper thought so i felt comfortable doing it and it was perfectly safe, I used the small grinder which I'm used to.<br /> <br /> I learnt that when tacking, if it peels a piece back in the other direction after shrinkage, that its better to tack less, just a tiny dot, so that its more malleable. then you can tack the other side more easily without breaking it and then finish with some more solid tacks.<br /> <br /> <br /> =1st April, 2014=<br /> Relocated lots of stuff in the workshop and did some cleanup. Learnt how to weld with Marcin.<br /> <br /> =31st March, 2014=<br /> Upload in progress for a you tube video showing how to produce diagrams in sketchup using scenes for dozuki.<br /> <br /> Finished the dozuki for the Soil Mixer.<br /> <br /> Found an interesting resource on hardening steel<br /> http://www.roymech.co.uk/Useful_Tables/Matter/Hardening.html<br /> <br /> =29th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> Happy birthday to me!<br /> <br /> This shows 3 channel capacitive sensing with an arduino.<br /> http://playground.arduino.cc/Main/CapacitiveSensor?from=Main.CapSense#.UzeQ0dzgg8M<br /> <br /> one thing i wonder about is interference with other objects and people around the table though. when the sense gets near the edges, this could change. i wonder if its being used for this purpose in the real world now how they deal with this issue - if it is an issue that is.<br /> <br /> if the sensor is closer to the plate, with a lower value resistor being used, then this could limit interference.<br /> <br /> using a ring or toroid will have increased sensitivity in the axis perpendicular to the ring. this is because the delta in the field is greater in this axis. good idea!<br /> http://www.agelkom.com.tr/prod02.htm<br /> <br /> you can vary pwm as cutting height is approached to get finer control and slower z speed.<br /> http://www.agelkom.com.tr/cap04_pwm_function.htm<br /> <br /> note aluminium case for shielding of circuit.<br /> http://www.cnc4pc.com/Store/osc/product_info.php?products_id=339?osCsid=9cb438690de2f645e1a951bef1ba4df8<br /> <br /> looking at the material and justins log, i like the idea of using the adafruit ultrasonic range sensor. I drew an idea for some reflector geometry to let us measure a disc pattern instead of a narrow beam.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Ultrasound_Torch_Height_Controller<br /> <br /> its clear that a capacitive solution will require totally different operation when going to a plasma cutter instead of oxy. infact, the capacitive sensor isn't even used - rather the voltage is measured between the torch and table to control height.<br /> <br /> that means two different technologies to achieve the same thing, because you need the capacitive measurement when the torch is off for the initial height.<br /> <br /> i think ultrasonic may be the way to go because it wont be affected by the two different modes of cutting. it could be cheaper, and simpler to maintain.<br /> <br /> you also need to consider height reduction after the cut commences. you could feed an isolated voltage/current measurment to tell the controlled when to drop the torch head.<br /> <br /> shielded cables are a must- some good stuff here, actually a noise reduction bible-<br /> http://www.cnccookbook.com/CCCNCNoise.html<br /> <br /> also<br /> http://www.randyray.com/tmc/rf_shielding.htm<br /> <br /> =28th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> [https://docs.google.com/drawings/d/1IMUu0otp7BRCflIRYKZ1JqR3lF3VF8OBjkPQXPQbV3A/edit created Parallel workflow diagram.] Google draw sucks though. Doesn't know how to filter images for different sizes.<br /> <br /> [http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Build_Instructions embedded this drawing into the build instructions page]<br /> <br /> Added the hinge mechanism and lid build to the dozuki for the soil mixer.<br /> <br /> =27th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> Created bunk bed design. 2 bracket pathways we need to decide on.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Bunk_Bed<br /> <br /> bunk bed specs<br /> 5'2&quot; top level for matress<br /> 1'2&quot; bottom level for matress<br /> 6'4&quot; max height<br /> <br /> moved copy from http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Fabrication_Drawings to http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Build_Instructions<br /> <br /> Setup build instructions for bucket on dozuki<br /> http://opensourceecology.dozuki.com/Guide/Installing+Soil+Mixer+-+Module+-+Bucket+The+soil+pulverizer+bucket/126?revisionid=HEAD<br /> <br /> brief discussion of using internet lines as one connection.<br /> if your going to be paying for 2 internet connections it would be good to load balance them both from one location and distribute it out from there. this would solve the problem of having large numbers of people, and since you are already paying for the second line it makes sense to do it. currently with just 10 users, 50kbit/s up is not going to cut it.<br /> <br /> running ethernet up to the micro house could be done with a switch no more than every 100 meters to boost the signal. if power is an issue power over ethernet could be used also, mentioned in this thread<br /> http://forums.whirlpool.net.au/archive/1164805<br /> <br /> so onto using two connections as one-<br /> <br /> Load balancing is easier than bonding.<br /> <br /> Bonding will double web speed for a single user with 2 internet connections. however this is unnecessary.<br /> <br /> Load balancing will not give you a maximum of 2x the speed for a single, but it will distribute traffic to each of the connections on demand if done correctly. In the real world this means with large numbers of users the web will perform just as well as in bonding. You need to make sure that with 2 connections going in that the load balancing won't just act as a failsafe - switch over to different internet connection if one fails. you want both connections to be used.<br /> <br /> http://www.increasebroadbandspeed.co.uk/what-is-adsl-load-balancing<br /> <br /> if you have a wrt54gl router this might be a good start to figuring this out.<br /> <br /> to achieve this your going to need to position those 2 adsl modems in the same location, before the load balancing hardware - router.<br /> <br /> The ISP doesn't have to know about it if you want to load balance yourself. I believe it can be done without them<br /> <br /> this guy did it with that router-<br /> http://forum.kitz.co.uk/index.php?topic=12308.msg232604#msg232604<br /> <br /> =26th March, 2014=<br /> * Measured out boards for the side rooms.<br /> * Did file format tests import into houdini.<br /> * Spoke to randy on the phone and cuts are ready for pickup. http://www.seamanschuske.com/Seaman_and_Schuske/Welcome.html<br /> <br /> It will now be possible to create a large chunk of the workflow in sketchup for documentation and build procedure. From a base model we can have in the same file procedural references for everything including<br /> *CAD layout for DXF export to CNC.<br /> *exploded view as animation<br /> *fabrication procedure as animation.<br /> *fabrication procedure frames for print manual and dozuki.<br /> <br /> what this means if the base model needs updates, all these dependencies will update too. problems are the plugin is unstable in 2014. it crashes when setting or getting states, using scenes, and also exporting .mp4 doesn't work.<br /> <br /> plan for sketchup video<br /> show dropbox sharing. show scenes, layers groups. show circles and tricks with CAD. show dxf conversion tricks and laying out in sketchup.<br /> <br /> * good sketchup video on scenes<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qEYmiKh-sqs<br /> * groups and components - make sure you know when to use which, or your file will get slow quickly.<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7V_KbxXVt0I<br /> * layers<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fBdP499iw0Y<br /> *speed enhancements<br /> https://sites.google.com/site/sketchupsage/faster<br /> <br /> *dynamic components - pro only<br /> http://help.sketchup.com/en/article/94885<br /> <br /> *plugins<br /> http://sketchucation.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=10&amp;t=36583&amp;p=322249&amp;hilit=+add+hidden+layer+#p322249<br /> <br /> Thinks like the tunes on the rototiller, or grid beam should be designated in sketchup as dynamic components. building them in other software throws away the procedural abitiy of other software, or adding complexity to do it through other plugins to enable software like freecad or open scad.<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;html&gt;&lt;script type=&quot;text/javascript&quot;<br /> data-dozuki-embed='3'<br /> src=&quot;http://d1luk0418egahw.cloudfront.net/static/embed/ifixit-embed.3.js#id=130&amp;site=opensourceecology.dozuki.com&quot;&gt;<br /> &lt;/script&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://opensourceecology.dozuki.com/Guide/Installing+Soil+Mixer+-+Module+-+Toothbar+Teeth/130&quot;&gt;Installing Soil Mixer - Module - Toothbar Teeth&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/html&gt;<br /> <br /> =25th March, 2014=<br /> *updated fabrication procedure text for marcin to review. updated exploded parts diagram and CAM layout numbering. <br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Fabrication_Drawings<br /> *added washers into sketchup file<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_3D_CAD<br /> <br /> *fixed p29 length in cam files to accomodate washers in the hinges<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_CAM<br /> <br /> *Updated cam files protocol<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/CAM_Files_Protocol#Other_Resources<br /> <br /> Note: A lot of time seems to be lost when design changes are made and dependent files on the sketchup such as the dxf, images on the wiki, and wiki uploads to keep everything current need to take place. potentially a more desirable solution would be to have the ability to synchronize all these changes at once.<br /> <br /> =24th March, 2014=<br /> [http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_CAM Updated DXF to send to seaman schuske - Randy Clinton]<br /> *increased the diameter by 1/16th on all the holes except the quick attach mount, and the 3 ground plates because they are already oversized to .625&quot;<br /> <br /> [http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_3D_CAD Updated 3D CAD Sketchup file for exploded diagram and DXF generation]<br /> <br /> <br /> [http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Exploded_Parts_Diagram Updated exploded parts diagram]<br /> <br /> *Updated fabrication diagram text.<br /> <br /> =21th March, 2014=<br /> *Updated exploded view and part numbering.<br /> [[Image:ExplodedView.jpg|400px]]<br /> <br /> *Updated CAM and CAD. Removed extra lines from CAM. fixed radius on motor holes, removed extra motor holes for bolt.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_3D_CAD<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_CAM<br /> <br /> *Added 2nd coat of lime wash to second last room.<br /> *Anthony added first coat of lime wash to last room.<br /> <br /> =20th March, 2014=<br /> *bearing spec for bolt holes is incorrect - should be .625 - http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/File:Bearing178.jpg<br /> *needed to add 4 extra holes into the sidewall<br /> *tested internet, and its not going to be fast enough for a large group of people. good for a few people, up to 4 maybe.<br /> *[http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Exploded_Parts_Diagram Added exploded parts diagram]<br /> *Rubbed out walls in last 2 east rooms. Moved the big glass sheets into the silo. Prepped whitewash and applied into the second last room.<br /> <br /> =19th March, 2014=<br /> *fixed a wheelbarrow axel by replacing the pin and putting 3 large washers on there. After pumping up the tires it'll be good as new.<br /> *mixxed approx 5 shovels of sand to 4-5 shovels of very clayey soil to plaster the window and door on the outside room. this took a lot longer than anticipated to do the job well. plastering on top of the window and door frame required almost 100% clay just to stick, I'm wondering if it will crack but it was the only way it would stick on there even with the wire mesh.<br /> *used sprayer and a damp cloth to smooth out the walls to prep for limewash<br /> *Added suggested ratio to lime wash and plaster ratio suggestion.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Lime_Plaster_and_Wash#BoM<br /> *[http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasertoc.htm came across a sweet link from anthony to make your own laser - laser sam]<br /> <br /> =18th March, 2014=<br /> Uploaded timelapse videos<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kMBSe5V7M8E<br /> <br /> Updated sketchup file to reposition the holes for the mounts. some inaccuracies were present in the components attaching to the shaft.<br /> <br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_3D_CAD<br /> <br /> sketchup note: when creating circles, you must go to window, entity info, chad change the segments from 24 to 48. most circles look like ploys other wise and this will follow through to the machine file.<br /> <br /> Moved everything from the outer rooms into office and silo. took a while because there was a lot of sorting. some things needed to be inside. <br /> <br /> applied lime wash to a wall in the middle room. tomorrow need to smooth out the rendering with a rag. also staple chicken air and get sand from micro house.<br /> <br /> tommorrow - fix sheets and dimensions. get a quote from Justin Fuston<br /> https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0ArpE5Y9PpJCXdGpUZ3dqYWw3czQzZ09IUHFpRl9VT1E#gid=0<br /> <br /> =17th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> Updated CAD. Chamfered corners, removed excess hinge parts, rotated struts 90 degrees. added gussets, but now they may not be necessary with the struts at 90 degrees. easy to remove. stacking of the hinge components around the hydraulic mechanism has been changed for better strength and ease of construction.<br /> <br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_3D_CAD<br /> <br /> This has been fixed. see video! you just need to clear the prefs.<br /> &lt;strike&gt;I also submitted a complaint to google, sketch up 2014 eliminated features in the free version of 2013 so that you have to pay for them. It's no longer possible to export to 3DS and most other pro formats now.&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> <br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A9TdFNZwLtc&amp;feature=em-upload_owner<br /> <br /> &lt;html&gt;<br /> &lt;iframe width=&quot;560&quot; height=&quot;315&quot; src=&quot;//www.youtube.com/embed/A9TdFNZwLtc&quot; frameborder=&quot;0&quot; allowfullscreen&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;<br /> &lt;/html&gt;<br /> <br /> Microhouse-<br /> - Painted walls with white.<br /> <br /> - Moved weights into the silo.<br /> <br /> - prepped lime in 1 to one in the white container.<br /> <br /> =16th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> Added dhal to recipes-<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Recipes<br /> <br /> Fixed vacuum cleaner.<br /> <br /> Setup DIY mouse trap design to drown rodents.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Mouse_trap<br /> <br /> =15th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> Recipe for Dahl. For 8 people.<br /> Awesome vegetarian power food high in protein.<br /> <br /> 4 onions.<br /> <br /> half a bulb of garlic<br /> <br /> 1.5kg lentils or split peas, soaked for as long as you can during the day, overnight if possible. if not, it will just take longer to cook but it works out fine. rinse them thoroughly!<br /> <br /> Coconut oil<br /> <br /> teaspoon whole cumin seeds<br /> <br /> cumin powder<br /> <br /> garam masala<br /> <br /> salt<br /> <br /> pepper<br /> <br /> chilli or cayenne pepper<br /> <br /> turmeric<br /> <br /> sour cream and cilantro for garnish.<br /> <br /> heat the oil and keep an eye on it so it doesn't smoke.<br /> fry the cumin seeds for a bit then add the onions and garlic on high. when the onions are clear to brown colour add 1/2 teaspoons of the rest of the spices and the lentils. add water to the pot until the lentils are just covered.<br /> keep on high heat until it starts to boil, then simmer until the lentils are soft/falling apart. this usually takes an hour.<br /> add to bowls and garnish with the cilantro and sour cream!<br /> <br /> <br /> -------<br /> <br /> <br /> Added large grain sand and clay mix to top right corner of hablab. when dried we added mist and then lime wash. it may need another layer.<br /> <br /> Painted the outside door frames yellow.<br /> <br /> Modifications added to http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Review<br /> <br /> Current design revisions-<br /> <br /> 1. Long reinforcement on edge of lid - 1/4 x 2. Current reinforcement needs to be rotated 90 degrees.<br /> <br /> 2. Centre the cylinder mount, add an extra strut for symmetry.<br /> <br /> 3. gusset 1/2&quot; x 4&quot; triangle on the rod end mount<br /> <br /> 4. 45 degrees angle on outside hinge to lip mount.<br /> <br /> =14th March, 2014=<br /> tomatoe varieties for OSE - <br /> jetstart<br /> homestead,<br /> bhn 1021<br /> defiant phr<br /> <br /> setting out planting guide for kansas city<br /> http://www.almanac.com/gardening/planting-dates/zipcode/64151<br /> <br /> =13th March, 2014=<br /> Updated cad file and range of motion. Added hinges and correct thicknesses.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_3D_CAD<br /> <br /> [[Image:sketchupModel.png|400px]]<br /> <br /> Collaboration notes: setting up remote collaboration for the design process in solid works can be aided by a synchronized web folder to users local paths. drop box achieves this but has a size limit. we need software that can do that locally to a raid array with offsite backup. Eric Potash suggested aero fs https://www.aerofs.com<br /> We also have http://www.bittorrent.com/sync which looks very promising with redundancy and http://owncloud.org<br /> <br /> Lime wash<br /> <br /> Determined that the 4 parts lime/3 parts water then salt added (salt is 1/5th the lime amount by volume, not weight) is a good mix provided the surface is smooth. On a rough surface this mix is too thick. If the mix is too thick it can crack due to shrinkage after drying.<br /> For a rough surface, this mix instead works - 1 part lime / 1 part water by volume, with salt being the same ratio as before - 1/5th the amount of lime by volume.<br /> It isn't necessary to mix the salt with more water prior to mixing with a drill in both these recipes. this was done on previous days to help mix more evenly, but these mixes are both watery enough to not worry about this.<br /> <br /> Pre misting the area before applying the lime wash prevents cracking significantly. This is done by lightly misting so the soil looks darkened and damp, but not soaking wet which affects the bond negatively. Waiting a while to see it dry a little (~30 seconds) and repeating this 4 or 5 times helps create a deeper bond into to adobe wall when the lime wash is applied.<br /> <br /> Hard synthetic brushes are ok to use only on smoothly rendered stucco, but on mud stucco these can be too abrasive and affect application. softer brushes like the thick ones we use from horse hair apply the mix really smoothly and work really well on both types of surfaces.<br /> <br /> [[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tgDarFYW7hk 4/3 mix failing in divots]]<br /> [[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QrqwRHOAA8s testing with spray]]<br /> <br /> For filling holes with earth plaster, Chris also added that they had success when mixing coarse grain sand with the clayey soil 3/1 and that there was no shrinkage problems when filling holes. they mixed it with their hands. they also sprayed the wall which helped.<br /> <br /> 3D Printer that Coulton fixed!<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MH_0sHNAd9w<br /> <br /> =12th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> *3D range of motion test for hydraulic cylinder.<br /> *http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Opening_Mechanism_Module_-_Calculations<br /> *http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/File:RangeOfMotion.png<br /> *http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Opening_Mechanism_Module_-_Bill_of_Materials<br /> *Hablab whitewash testing - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BiA1LRERXjU&amp;list=UU0Jra6oMPLejbnPr4bzxdpg<br /> <br /> Determined that thick 2 to 1 lime/water ratio is too thick and cracks in some areas. Prepping with misting the adobe layer before limewashing definitely reduces cracking.<br /> We are also testing two recipes for tomorrow. One that is 4/3 Lime/water. The other that is 1/1. We will test both of these to see which works better.<br /> <br /> <br /> =11th March, 2014=<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KjADHmrkFy4<br /> <br /> Tested different whitewash formula. it appeared that thick lime wash was less tolerant of some areas of the wall and was peeling back at some points after some time had passed. We applied a thin whitewash with the consistency of cream or milk at the end to different parts of the wall to see if we could avoid the peeling problem.<br /> <br /> Drew the clamshell mechanism and hinge in sketch up for the Soil Mixer.<br /> <br /> Screenshot<br /> [[Image:WIPsoild_mixer_and_lid.png|200px]]<br /> <br /> <br /> Sketchup in progress<br /> [[File:SoilPulverizerV1s001.skp]]<br /> <br /> =10th March, 2014=<br /> Timelapse of wall painting-<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o4bef_KFQts<br /> <br /> Helped sketch designs for soil mixer.<br /> <br /> Painted wall with Lauren and Cat. (timelapse video in progress)<br /> <br /> Cooked thai style fried rice for dinner.<br /> <br /> Commenced ideation for procedural animation of the GVCS in Houdini for documentation.<br /> <br /> =9th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> [[Soil Mixer Requirements]].<br /> <br /> Append design Rationale -<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_Construction_Set_Requirements<br /> <br /> Laid hay over the ground to stop mud being moved along the path.</div>

Andrew Graham https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Andrew_Graham_Log&diff=119039 2014-04-27T14:47:57Z

<p>Andrew Graham: </p> <hr /> <div>=Ideas to implement=<br /> * Create a sketchup for OSE video to show how to draw with the right accuracy, increase circle segments, use hiding, snapping etc, arcs to measure etc. also how to post the final result using the dozuki cad template<br /> * it may be possible to layout 3D objects from sketchup in free cad to be flat. it could be done dynamically using python script. this would give a proper procedural workflow for dimensioning. doing it manually isn't feasible because adjustments to sketchup files are asking for trouble. When it comes to the cam process you have to do it all over again to ensure you aren't maintaining any old incorrect parts.<br /> http://www.freecadweb.org/wiki/index.php?title=Python_scripting_tutorial<br /> * Build a workflow in Houdini to dynamically build a dxf with dimensioning and instructions for fabrication<br /> * Build a procedural animation tool to follow a spreadsheet for construction order. The result from houdini would be an open GL animation of the build of the model.<br /> * Improve wiki usability with suggested extension by Kunda<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/User_talk:Andrew_Graham<br /> <br /> =To do list=<br /> * look at stucco sprayer<br /> * get dish detergent<br /> * empty ash container.<br /> * hot water flow threshold to turn on is too high. kitchen tap needs to be turned on full for it to work.<br /> * rodent problem -thorough clean of kitchen and seal food away.<br /> * Make a sign to make sure people don't burn treated pine in the fire.<br /> <br /> timezones seem incorrect?<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/File:Soil_Pulverizer.skp<br /> <br /> =27th April, 2014=<br /> Build process for frame-<br /> instead of finishing the welds for the vertical supports, it would be better to just tack each seam it in 4-6 spots and then bolt it all together.<br /> The bolts should be on the interior so that the seams can be welded/finished.<br /> all the other parts can be finished seperately.<br /> the tolerance for accuracy on how important a 90 degree angle is on any part, and any spots that need to be ground out should be marked.<br /> <br /> <br /> =26th April, 2014=<br /> Setup links for all the modules. people need to embed these links into each module build time data page.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/CEB_Press_6_-_Overall_Machine_-_Build_Time_Data<br /> <br /> =25th April, 2014=<br /> created process layout for CEB press<br /> &lt;html&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://docs.google.com/drawings/d/1J3Izbcv5fDy2ITCB9SckSXit6GPZPrTc04xX8Yzs2Fs/pub?w=1651&amp;amp;h=305&quot;&gt;&lt;/html&gt;<br /> https://docs.google.com/drawings/d/1J3Izbcv5fDy2ITCB9SckSXit6GPZPrTc04xX8Yzs2Fs/edit<br /> <br /> =19th April, 2014=<br /> [http://www.xnview.com/en/xnconvert/#downloads xnview] is a must have for all dozuki users<br /> [File:Batch_resize_for_dozuki.xbs]<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/w/images/5/56/Batch_resize_for_dozuki.xbs<br /> <br /> It will resize an entire folder of images and can give a black border to put it in the right ratio for dozuki. It also helps when lots of users are trying to upload at once.<br /> <br /> Microhouse-<br /> because of variation in the concrete foundation, they were re measured on each side and checked against floor modules to see there are no surprises when they slot in.<br /> <br /> because of variation in birck szie we need half bricks to correct as early as possible to prevent parallel lines in the stacks occuring, i suggest that when the CEB press is in auto mode that because the other buttons on the interface are not useful in this state we use them for this - pressing one of these buttons can go to a half size brick mode, and another can go to a third size brick mode. this prevents slow down by getting someone to manually vary the pots when required. we just do a few of these varitions and revert back to normal funcitonality.<br /> <br /> =11th April, 2014=<br /> jar soil test<br /> http://www.ext.colostate.edu/mg/gardennotes/214.html<br /> <br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Bunk_Bed<br /> updated bunk bed sketchup and bom<br /> <br /> <br /> =10th April, 2014=<br /> We finished most of the bucket, all that needs to be done is weld the quick attach plates on the sides after the tractor loads it up.<br /> <br /> We lost a lot of time due to the shaft not being flat all the way across. its important to append this into the instrucitons. we should also note that tynes need to be drilled and then ground out flat, probably best to do it prior to welding the flats on.<br /> also brushing the shaft for a very easy fit for the bearings before fitting anything is an important thing to note for the build.<br /> <br /> we discussed making abox for the gopro hero3.<br /> <br /> the box that comes with it would be fine to just drill a hole in and use the usb cord to extend into a powergorilla or powermonkey. there are a lot of cheaper duplicates around but these are designed to be more ruggedised and have good multi voltage outputs.<br /> this one maybe overkill, but i find it has saved my bacon a number of times. if i forget to charge it its ok, I can run my gopro for maybe 3 days at least before charging again.<br /> https://www.powertraveller.com/en/shop/portable-chargers/professional/powergorilla/<br /> <br /> also the mini or the powermonkey extreme 12v would be adequate for all day timelapse<br /> https://www.powertraveller.com/en/shop/portable-chargers/professional/<br /> <br /> there is also a 3d printed box we could makle from here<br /> https://www.youmagine.com/designs/gopro-hero-3-box<br /> <br /> =9th April, 2014=<br /> need to adjust the build process for tynes. without a flat face, even working with gravity spatter on the nut is a big problem. a more robust process is to drill a hole, then use a grinder/cutter to flatten the area. this means there is no gap where the welds takes place on the nut and using this method they stayed more free<br /> <br /> =8th April, 2014=<br /> Had a very productive build day yesterday on the soil mixer. Things of note were-<br /> Putting the lid on was a bit of a challenge. We had to oxy cut the lid down a little more. we also realised that using clamp on the bottom to rest the lid on was usefull. it was to help get the lid in position with all the other welds for the hinges that need to take place.<br /> I made a mistake by welding the Hinge struts for the cylinder as part of the outside hinges on the lid. the parts look very similar, just a little shorter. it would help if we cut a bit of a different shape in the cad for easy identification. also to make sure everything is numbered.<br /> Putting on the hinges was easier than I thought. You can actually just use clamps or bolt and nuts for each part, keeping them at the 90 degree angle as in the design. Then position them in place getting everything square and tac away. This is all synced up in Trovebox and will be added to the documentation.<br /> <br /> <br /> =5th April, 2014=<br /> one guy got a bond with PLA on his 3d printer directly onto copper at 130C. that means if it works, and im sure it could, we could buy copper sheets directly at the weight price, and print the plastic layer on the back. print the layer on the other side as a resist layer and etch away. this has some potential.<br /> http://hydraraptor.blogspot.com/2010/04/cu-pla.html<br /> <br /> Here is a concept for a self aligning QA Lip<br /> <br /> [[Image:Self Aligning QA Mount.jpg|600px]]<br /> <br /> this can be improved by inverting the wedge and having it internally.<br /> <br /> =4th April, 2014=<br /> Fixed the construction order of the bucket on the dozuki and updated the tines production process to reflect what is happening now.<br /> <br /> Had lots of problems with the wire feeder on the welder today when trying to finish the QA Lip. but we got a lot more done towards the end of the day getting most of the bucket and lip tacked in place. almost ready to start putting on the lid once those welds are finished.<br /> <br /> <br /> =2nd April, 2014=<br /> <br /> today I cut up the larger pieces of stock on the iron worker. but we had a bit of a blocker and that was 2 big pieces that need to be cut with a torch. so we couldn't continue on the main bucket apart form the side walls, but we were busy all day anyway cutting up all the other necessary parts from stock, tubing, and tacking half the teeth.<br /> <br /> I thought this was a good read<br /> <br /> http://www.thefabricator.com/article/arcwelding/22-possible-causes-of-weld-metal-porosity<br /> and this -<br /> http://www.daihen-usa.com/techtips.php<br /> <br /> The first article says porosity is necessarily a deal breaker unless its really bad or a structural requirement<br /> <br /> I learnt to day that having the angle of the tool right made a big difference at about 15 degrees off perpendicular. paint was also causing major problems, so after an initial tack i went grinding along all the seams, welded again and ground out the old bad tacks. <br /> <br /> I know Marcin didn't want us to use the grinder, but it became a necessity with the paint on the rebar that needed to be removed along the seams. I used to grind out heaps of hot water systems I used to find for scrap copper thought so i felt comfortable doing it and it was perfectly safe, I used the small grinder which I'm used to.<br /> <br /> I learnt that when tacking, if it peels a piece back in the other direction after shrinkage, that its better to tack less, just a tiny dot, so that its more malleable. then you can tack the other side more easily without breaking it and then finish with some more solid tacks.<br /> <br /> <br /> =1st April, 2014=<br /> Relocated lots of stuff in the workshop and did some cleanup. Learnt how to weld with Marcin.<br /> <br /> =31st March, 2014=<br /> Upload in progress for a you tube video showing how to produce diagrams in sketchup using scenes for dozuki.<br /> <br /> Finished the dozuki for the Soil Mixer.<br /> <br /> Found an interesting resource on hardening steel<br /> http://www.roymech.co.uk/Useful_Tables/Matter/Hardening.html<br /> <br /> =29th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> Happy birthday to me!<br /> <br /> This shows 3 channel capacitive sensing with an arduino.<br /> http://playground.arduino.cc/Main/CapacitiveSensor?from=Main.CapSense#.UzeQ0dzgg8M<br /> <br /> one thing i wonder about is interference with other objects and people around the table though. when the sense gets near the edges, this could change. i wonder if its being used for this purpose in the real world now how they deal with this issue - if it is an issue that is.<br /> <br /> if the sensor is closer to the plate, with a lower value resistor being used, then this could limit interference.<br /> <br /> using a ring or toroid will have increased sensitivity in the axis perpendicular to the ring. this is because the delta in the field is greater in this axis. good idea!<br /> http://www.agelkom.com.tr/prod02.htm<br /> <br /> you can vary pwm as cutting height is approached to get finer control and slower z speed.<br /> http://www.agelkom.com.tr/cap04_pwm_function.htm<br /> <br /> note aluminium case for shielding of circuit.<br /> http://www.cnc4pc.com/Store/osc/product_info.php?products_id=339?osCsid=9cb438690de2f645e1a951bef1ba4df8<br /> <br /> looking at the material and justins log, i like the idea of using the adafruit ultrasonic range sensor. I drew an idea for some reflector geometry to let us measure a disc pattern instead of a narrow beam.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Ultrasound_Torch_Height_Controller<br /> <br /> its clear that a capacitive solution will require totally different operation when going to a plasma cutter instead of oxy. infact, the capacitive sensor isn't even used - rather the voltage is measured between the torch and table to control height.<br /> <br /> that means two different technologies to achieve the same thing, because you need the capacitive measurement when the torch is off for the initial height.<br /> <br /> i think ultrasonic may be the way to go because it wont be affected by the two different modes of cutting. it could be cheaper, and simpler to maintain.<br /> <br /> you also need to consider height reduction after the cut commences. you could feed an isolated voltage/current measurment to tell the controlled when to drop the torch head.<br /> <br /> shielded cables are a must- some good stuff here, actually a noise reduction bible-<br /> http://www.cnccookbook.com/CCCNCNoise.html<br /> <br /> also<br /> http://www.randyray.com/tmc/rf_shielding.htm<br /> <br /> =28th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> [https://docs.google.com/drawings/d/1IMUu0otp7BRCflIRYKZ1JqR3lF3VF8OBjkPQXPQbV3A/edit created Parallel workflow diagram.] Google draw sucks though. Doesn't know how to filter images for different sizes.<br /> <br /> [http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Build_Instructions embedded this drawing into the build instructions page]<br /> <br /> Added the hinge mechanism and lid build to the dozuki for the soil mixer.<br /> <br /> =27th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> Created bunk bed design. 2 bracket pathways we need to decide on.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Bunk_Bed<br /> <br /> bunk bed specs<br /> 5'2&quot; top level for matress<br /> 1'2&quot; bottom level for matress<br /> 6'4&quot; max height<br /> <br /> moved copy from http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Fabrication_Drawings to http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Build_Instructions<br /> <br /> Setup build instructions for bucket on dozuki<br /> http://opensourceecology.dozuki.com/Guide/Installing+Soil+Mixer+-+Module+-+Bucket+The+soil+pulverizer+bucket/126?revisionid=HEAD<br /> <br /> brief discussion of using internet lines as one connection.<br /> if your going to be paying for 2 internet connections it would be good to load balance them both from one location and distribute it out from there. this would solve the problem of having large numbers of people, and since you are already paying for the second line it makes sense to do it. currently with just 10 users, 50kbit/s up is not going to cut it.<br /> <br /> running ethernet up to the micro house could be done with a switch no more than every 100 meters to boost the signal. if power is an issue power over ethernet could be used also, mentioned in this thread<br /> http://forums.whirlpool.net.au/archive/1164805<br /> <br /> so onto using two connections as one-<br /> <br /> Load balancing is easier than bonding.<br /> <br /> Bonding will double web speed for a single user with 2 internet connections. however this is unnecessary.<br /> <br /> Load balancing will not give you a maximum of 2x the speed for a single, but it will distribute traffic to each of the connections on demand if done correctly. In the real world this means with large numbers of users the web will perform just as well as in bonding. You need to make sure that with 2 connections going in that the load balancing won't just act as a failsafe - switch over to different internet connection if one fails. you want both connections to be used.<br /> <br /> http://www.increasebroadbandspeed.co.uk/what-is-adsl-load-balancing<br /> <br /> if you have a wrt54gl router this might be a good start to figuring this out.<br /> <br /> to achieve this your going to need to position those 2 adsl modems in the same location, before the load balancing hardware - router.<br /> <br /> The ISP doesn't have to know about it if you want to load balance yourself. I believe it can be done without them<br /> <br /> this guy did it with that router-<br /> http://forum.kitz.co.uk/index.php?topic=12308.msg232604#msg232604<br /> <br /> =26th March, 2014=<br /> * Measured out boards for the side rooms.<br /> * Did file format tests import into houdini.<br /> * Spoke to randy on the phone and cuts are ready for pickup. http://www.seamanschuske.com/Seaman_and_Schuske/Welcome.html<br /> <br /> It will now be possible to create a large chunk of the workflow in sketchup for documentation and build procedure. From a base model we can have in the same file procedural references for everything including<br /> *CAD layout for DXF export to CNC.<br /> *exploded view as animation<br /> *fabrication procedure as animation.<br /> *fabrication procedure frames for print manual and dozuki.<br /> <br /> what this means if the base model needs updates, all these dependencies will update too. problems are the plugin is unstable in 2014. it crashes when setting or getting states, using scenes, and also exporting .mp4 doesn't work.<br /> <br /> plan for sketchup video<br /> show dropbox sharing. show scenes, layers groups. show circles and tricks with CAD. show dxf conversion tricks and laying out in sketchup.<br /> <br /> * good sketchup video on scenes<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qEYmiKh-sqs<br /> * groups and components - make sure you know when to use which, or your file will get slow quickly.<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7V_KbxXVt0I<br /> * layers<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fBdP499iw0Y<br /> *speed enhancements<br /> https://sites.google.com/site/sketchupsage/faster<br /> <br /> *dynamic components - pro only<br /> http://help.sketchup.com/en/article/94885<br /> <br /> *plugins<br /> http://sketchucation.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=10&amp;t=36583&amp;p=322249&amp;hilit=+add+hidden+layer+#p322249<br /> <br /> Thinks like the tunes on the rototiller, or grid beam should be designated in sketchup as dynamic components. building them in other software throws away the procedural abitiy of other software, or adding complexity to do it through other plugins to enable software like freecad or open scad.<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;html&gt;&lt;script type=&quot;text/javascript&quot;<br /> data-dozuki-embed='3'<br /> src=&quot;http://d1luk0418egahw.cloudfront.net/static/embed/ifixit-embed.3.js#id=130&amp;site=opensourceecology.dozuki.com&quot;&gt;<br /> &lt;/script&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://opensourceecology.dozuki.com/Guide/Installing+Soil+Mixer+-+Module+-+Toothbar+Teeth/130&quot;&gt;Installing Soil Mixer - Module - Toothbar Teeth&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/html&gt;<br /> <br /> =25th March, 2014=<br /> *updated fabrication procedure text for marcin to review. updated exploded parts diagram and CAM layout numbering. <br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Fabrication_Drawings<br /> *added washers into sketchup file<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_3D_CAD<br /> <br /> *fixed p29 length in cam files to accomodate washers in the hinges<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_CAM<br /> <br /> *Updated cam files protocol<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/CAM_Files_Protocol#Other_Resources<br /> <br /> Note: A lot of time seems to be lost when design changes are made and dependent files on the sketchup such as the dxf, images on the wiki, and wiki uploads to keep everything current need to take place. potentially a more desirable solution would be to have the ability to synchronize all these changes at once.<br /> <br /> =24th March, 2014=<br /> [http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_CAM Updated DXF to send to seaman schuske - Randy Clinton]<br /> *increased the diameter by 1/16th on all the holes except the quick attach mount, and the 3 ground plates because they are already oversized to .625&quot;<br /> <br /> [http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_3D_CAD Updated 3D CAD Sketchup file for exploded diagram and DXF generation]<br /> <br /> <br /> [http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Exploded_Parts_Diagram Updated exploded parts diagram]<br /> <br /> *Updated fabrication diagram text.<br /> <br /> =21th March, 2014=<br /> *Updated exploded view and part numbering.<br /> [[Image:ExplodedView.jpg|400px]]<br /> <br /> *Updated CAM and CAD. Removed extra lines from CAM. fixed radius on motor holes, removed extra motor holes for bolt.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_3D_CAD<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_CAM<br /> <br /> *Added 2nd coat of lime wash to second last room.<br /> *Anthony added first coat of lime wash to last room.<br /> <br /> =20th March, 2014=<br /> *bearing spec for bolt holes is incorrect - should be .625 - http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/File:Bearing178.jpg<br /> *needed to add 4 extra holes into the sidewall<br /> *tested internet, and its not going to be fast enough for a large group of people. good for a few people, up to 4 maybe.<br /> *[http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Exploded_Parts_Diagram Added exploded parts diagram]<br /> *Rubbed out walls in last 2 east rooms. Moved the big glass sheets into the silo. Prepped whitewash and applied into the second last room.<br /> <br /> =19th March, 2014=<br /> *fixed a wheelbarrow axel by replacing the pin and putting 3 large washers on there. After pumping up the tires it'll be good as new.<br /> *mixxed approx 5 shovels of sand to 4-5 shovels of very clayey soil to plaster the window and door on the outside room. this took a lot longer than anticipated to do the job well. plastering on top of the window and door frame required almost 100% clay just to stick, I'm wondering if it will crack but it was the only way it would stick on there even with the wire mesh.<br /> *used sprayer and a damp cloth to smooth out the walls to prep for limewash<br /> *Added suggested ratio to lime wash and plaster ratio suggestion.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Lime_Plaster_and_Wash#BoM<br /> *[http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasertoc.htm came across a sweet link from anthony to make your own laser - laser sam]<br /> <br /> =18th March, 2014=<br /> Uploaded timelapse videos<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kMBSe5V7M8E<br /> <br /> Updated sketchup file to reposition the holes for the mounts. some inaccuracies were present in the components attaching to the shaft.<br /> <br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_3D_CAD<br /> <br /> sketchup note: when creating circles, you must go to window, entity info, chad change the segments from 24 to 48. most circles look like ploys other wise and this will follow through to the machine file.<br /> <br /> Moved everything from the outer rooms into office and silo. took a while because there was a lot of sorting. some things needed to be inside. <br /> <br /> applied lime wash to a wall in the middle room. tomorrow need to smooth out the rendering with a rag. also staple chicken air and get sand from micro house.<br /> <br /> tommorrow - fix sheets and dimensions. get a quote from Justin Fuston<br /> https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0ArpE5Y9PpJCXdGpUZ3dqYWw3czQzZ09IUHFpRl9VT1E#gid=0<br /> <br /> =17th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> Updated CAD. Chamfered corners, removed excess hinge parts, rotated struts 90 degrees. added gussets, but now they may not be necessary with the struts at 90 degrees. easy to remove. stacking of the hinge components around the hydraulic mechanism has been changed for better strength and ease of construction.<br /> <br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_3D_CAD<br /> <br /> This has been fixed. see video! you just need to clear the prefs.<br /> &lt;strike&gt;I also submitted a complaint to google, sketch up 2014 eliminated features in the free version of 2013 so that you have to pay for them. It's no longer possible to export to 3DS and most other pro formats now.&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> <br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A9TdFNZwLtc&amp;feature=em-upload_owner<br /> <br /> &lt;html&gt;<br /> &lt;iframe width=&quot;560&quot; height=&quot;315&quot; src=&quot;//www.youtube.com/embed/A9TdFNZwLtc&quot; frameborder=&quot;0&quot; allowfullscreen&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;<br /> &lt;/html&gt;<br /> <br /> Microhouse-<br /> - Painted walls with white.<br /> <br /> - Moved weights into the silo.<br /> <br /> - prepped lime in 1 to one in the white container.<br /> <br /> =16th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> Added dhal to recipes-<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Recipes<br /> <br /> Fixed vacuum cleaner.<br /> <br /> Setup DIY mouse trap design to drown rodents.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Mouse_trap<br /> <br /> =15th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> Recipe for Dahl. For 8 people.<br /> Awesome vegetarian power food high in protein.<br /> <br /> 4 onions.<br /> <br /> half a bulb of garlic<br /> <br /> 1.5kg lentils or split peas, soaked for as long as you can during the day, overnight if possible. if not, it will just take longer to cook but it works out fine. rinse them thoroughly!<br /> <br /> Coconut oil<br /> <br /> teaspoon whole cumin seeds<br /> <br /> cumin powder<br /> <br /> garam masala<br /> <br /> salt<br /> <br /> pepper<br /> <br /> chilli or cayenne pepper<br /> <br /> turmeric<br /> <br /> sour cream and cilantro for garnish.<br /> <br /> heat the oil and keep an eye on it so it doesn't smoke.<br /> fry the cumin seeds for a bit then add the onions and garlic on high. when the onions are clear to brown colour add 1/2 teaspoons of the rest of the spices and the lentils. add water to the pot until the lentils are just covered.<br /> keep on high heat until it starts to boil, then simmer until the lentils are soft/falling apart. this usually takes an hour.<br /> add to bowls and garnish with the cilantro and sour cream!<br /> <br /> <br /> -------<br /> <br /> <br /> Added large grain sand and clay mix to top right corner of hablab. when dried we added mist and then lime wash. it may need another layer.<br /> <br /> Painted the outside door frames yellow.<br /> <br /> Modifications added to http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Review<br /> <br /> Current design revisions-<br /> <br /> 1. Long reinforcement on edge of lid - 1/4 x 2. Current reinforcement needs to be rotated 90 degrees.<br /> <br /> 2. Centre the cylinder mount, add an extra strut for symmetry.<br /> <br /> 3. gusset 1/2&quot; x 4&quot; triangle on the rod end mount<br /> <br /> 4. 45 degrees angle on outside hinge to lip mount.<br /> <br /> =14th March, 2014=<br /> tomatoe varieties for OSE - <br /> jetstart<br /> homestead,<br /> bhn 1021<br /> defiant phr<br /> <br /> setting out planting guide for kansas city<br /> http://www.almanac.com/gardening/planting-dates/zipcode/64151<br /> <br /> =13th March, 2014=<br /> Updated cad file and range of motion. Added hinges and correct thicknesses.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_3D_CAD<br /> <br /> [[Image:sketchupModel.png|400px]]<br /> <br /> Collaboration notes: setting up remote collaboration for the design process in solid works can be aided by a synchronized web folder to users local paths. drop box achieves this but has a size limit. we need software that can do that locally to a raid array with offsite backup. Eric Potash suggested aero fs https://www.aerofs.com<br /> We also have http://www.bittorrent.com/sync which looks very promising with redundancy and http://owncloud.org<br /> <br /> Lime wash<br /> <br /> Determined that the 4 parts lime/3 parts water then salt added (salt is 1/5th the lime amount by volume, not weight) is a good mix provided the surface is smooth. On a rough surface this mix is too thick. If the mix is too thick it can crack due to shrinkage after drying.<br /> For a rough surface, this mix instead works - 1 part lime / 1 part water by volume, with salt being the same ratio as before - 1/5th the amount of lime by volume.<br /> It isn't necessary to mix the salt with more water prior to mixing with a drill in both these recipes. this was done on previous days to help mix more evenly, but these mixes are both watery enough to not worry about this.<br /> <br /> Pre misting the area before applying the lime wash prevents cracking significantly. This is done by lightly misting so the soil looks darkened and damp, but not soaking wet which affects the bond negatively. Waiting a while to see it dry a little (~30 seconds) and repeating this 4 or 5 times helps create a deeper bond into to adobe wall when the lime wash is applied.<br /> <br /> Hard synthetic brushes are ok to use only on smoothly rendered stucco, but on mud stucco these can be too abrasive and affect application. softer brushes like the thick ones we use from horse hair apply the mix really smoothly and work really well on both types of surfaces.<br /> <br /> [[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tgDarFYW7hk 4/3 mix failing in divots]]<br /> [[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QrqwRHOAA8s testing with spray]]<br /> <br /> For filling holes with earth plaster, Chris also added that they had success when mixing coarse grain sand with the clayey soil 3/1 and that there was no shrinkage problems when filling holes. they mixed it with their hands. they also sprayed the wall which helped.<br /> <br /> 3D Printer that Coulton fixed!<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MH_0sHNAd9w<br /> <br /> =12th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> *3D range of motion test for hydraulic cylinder.<br /> *http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Opening_Mechanism_Module_-_Calculations<br /> *http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/File:RangeOfMotion.png<br /> *http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Opening_Mechanism_Module_-_Bill_of_Materials<br /> *Hablab whitewash testing - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BiA1LRERXjU&amp;list=UU0Jra6oMPLejbnPr4bzxdpg<br /> <br /> Determined that thick 2 to 1 lime/water ratio is too thick and cracks in some areas. Prepping with misting the adobe layer before limewashing definitely reduces cracking.<br /> We are also testing two recipes for tomorrow. One that is 4/3 Lime/water. The other that is 1/1. We will test both of these to see which works better.<br /> <br /> <br /> =11th March, 2014=<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KjADHmrkFy4<br /> <br /> Tested different whitewash formula. it appeared that thick lime wash was less tolerant of some areas of the wall and was peeling back at some points after some time had passed. We applied a thin whitewash with the consistency of cream or milk at the end to different parts of the wall to see if we could avoid the peeling problem.<br /> <br /> Drew the clamshell mechanism and hinge in sketch up for the Soil Mixer.<br /> <br /> Screenshot<br /> [[Image:WIPsoild_mixer_and_lid.png|200px]]<br /> <br /> <br /> Sketchup in progress<br /> [[File:SoilPulverizerV1s001.skp]]<br /> <br /> =10th March, 2014=<br /> Timelapse of wall painting-<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o4bef_KFQts<br /> <br /> Helped sketch designs for soil mixer.<br /> <br /> Painted wall with Lauren and Cat. (timelapse video in progress)<br /> <br /> Cooked thai style fried rice for dinner.<br /> <br /> Commenced ideation for procedural animation of the GVCS in Houdini for documentation.<br /> <br /> =9th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> [[Soil Mixer Requirements]].<br /> <br /> Append design Rationale -<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_Construction_Set_Requirements<br /> <br /> Laid hay over the ground to stop mud being moved along the path.</div>

Andrew Graham https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Andrew_Graham_Log&diff=119032 2014-04-26T15:35:07Z

<p>Andrew Graham: </p> <hr /> <div>=Ideas to implement=<br /> * Create a sketchup for OSE video to show how to draw with the right accuracy, increase circle segments, use hiding, snapping etc, arcs to measure etc. also how to post the final result using the dozuki cad template<br /> * it may be possible to layout 3D objects from sketchup in free cad to be flat. it could be done dynamically using python script. this would give a proper procedural workflow for dimensioning. doing it manually isn't feasible because adjustments to sketchup files are asking for trouble. When it comes to the cam process you have to do it all over again to ensure you aren't maintaining any old incorrect parts.<br /> http://www.freecadweb.org/wiki/index.php?title=Python_scripting_tutorial<br /> * Build a workflow in Houdini to dynamically build a dxf with dimensioning and instructions for fabrication<br /> * Build a procedural animation tool to follow a spreadsheet for construction order. The result from houdini would be an open GL animation of the build of the model.<br /> * Improve wiki usability with suggested extension by Kunda<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/User_talk:Andrew_Graham<br /> <br /> =To do list=<br /> * look at stucco sprayer<br /> * get dish detergent<br /> * empty ash container.<br /> * hot water flow threshold to turn on is too high. kitchen tap needs to be turned on full for it to work.<br /> * rodent problem -thorough clean of kitchen and seal food away.<br /> * Make a sign to make sure people don't burn treated pine in the fire.<br /> <br /> timezones seem incorrect?<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/File:Soil_Pulverizer.skp<br /> <br /> =26th April, 2014=<br /> Setup links for all the modules. people need to embed these links into each module build time data page.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/CEB_Press_6_-_Overall_Machine_-_Build_Time_Data<br /> <br /> =25th April, 2014=<br /> created process layout for CEB press<br /> &lt;html&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://docs.google.com/drawings/d/1J3Izbcv5fDy2ITCB9SckSXit6GPZPrTc04xX8Yzs2Fs/pub?w=1651&amp;amp;h=305&quot;&gt;&lt;/html&gt;<br /> https://docs.google.com/drawings/d/1J3Izbcv5fDy2ITCB9SckSXit6GPZPrTc04xX8Yzs2Fs/edit<br /> <br /> =19th April, 2014=<br /> [http://www.xnview.com/en/xnconvert/#downloads xnview] is a must have for all dozuki users<br /> [File:Batch_resize_for_dozuki.xbs]<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/w/images/5/56/Batch_resize_for_dozuki.xbs<br /> <br /> It will resize an entire folder of images and can give a black border to put it in the right ratio for dozuki. It also helps when lots of users are trying to upload at once.<br /> <br /> Microhouse-<br /> because of variation in the concrete foundation, they were re measured on each side and checked against floor modules to see there are no surprises when they slot in.<br /> <br /> because of variation in birck szie we need half bricks to correct as early as possible to prevent parallel lines in the stacks occuring, i suggest that when the CEB press is in auto mode that because the other buttons on the interface are not useful in this state we use them for this - pressing one of these buttons can go to a half size brick mode, and another can go to a third size brick mode. this prevents slow down by getting someone to manually vary the pots when required. we just do a few of these varitions and revert back to normal funcitonality.<br /> <br /> =11th April, 2014=<br /> jar soil test<br /> http://www.ext.colostate.edu/mg/gardennotes/214.html<br /> <br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Bunk_Bed<br /> updated bunk bed sketchup and bom<br /> <br /> <br /> =10th April, 2014=<br /> We finished most of the bucket, all that needs to be done is weld the quick attach plates on the sides after the tractor loads it up.<br /> <br /> We lost a lot of time due to the shaft not being flat all the way across. its important to append this into the instrucitons. we should also note that tynes need to be drilled and then ground out flat, probably best to do it prior to welding the flats on.<br /> also brushing the shaft for a very easy fit for the bearings before fitting anything is an important thing to note for the build.<br /> <br /> we discussed making abox for the gopro hero3.<br /> <br /> the box that comes with it would be fine to just drill a hole in and use the usb cord to extend into a powergorilla or powermonkey. there are a lot of cheaper duplicates around but these are designed to be more ruggedised and have good multi voltage outputs.<br /> this one maybe overkill, but i find it has saved my bacon a number of times. if i forget to charge it its ok, I can run my gopro for maybe 3 days at least before charging again.<br /> https://www.powertraveller.com/en/shop/portable-chargers/professional/powergorilla/<br /> <br /> also the mini or the powermonkey extreme 12v would be adequate for all day timelapse<br /> https://www.powertraveller.com/en/shop/portable-chargers/professional/<br /> <br /> there is also a 3d printed box we could makle from here<br /> https://www.youmagine.com/designs/gopro-hero-3-box<br /> <br /> =9th April, 2014=<br /> need to adjust the build process for tynes. without a flat face, even working with gravity spatter on the nut is a big problem. a more robust process is to drill a hole, then use a grinder/cutter to flatten the area. this means there is no gap where the welds takes place on the nut and using this method they stayed more free<br /> <br /> =8th April, 2014=<br /> Had a very productive build day yesterday on the soil mixer. Things of note were-<br /> Putting the lid on was a bit of a challenge. We had to oxy cut the lid down a little more. we also realised that using clamp on the bottom to rest the lid on was usefull. it was to help get the lid in position with all the other welds for the hinges that need to take place.<br /> I made a mistake by welding the Hinge struts for the cylinder as part of the outside hinges on the lid. the parts look very similar, just a little shorter. it would help if we cut a bit of a different shape in the cad for easy identification. also to make sure everything is numbered.<br /> Putting on the hinges was easier than I thought. You can actually just use clamps or bolt and nuts for each part, keeping them at the 90 degree angle as in the design. Then position them in place getting everything square and tac away. This is all synced up in Trovebox and will be added to the documentation.<br /> <br /> <br /> =5th April, 2014=<br /> one guy got a bond with PLA on his 3d printer directly onto copper at 130C. that means if it works, and im sure it could, we could buy copper sheets directly at the weight price, and print the plastic layer on the back. print the layer on the other side as a resist layer and etch away. this has some potential.<br /> http://hydraraptor.blogspot.com/2010/04/cu-pla.html<br /> <br /> Here is a concept for a self aligning QA Lip<br /> <br /> [[Image:Self Aligning QA Mount.jpg|600px]]<br /> <br /> this can be improved by inverting the wedge and having it internally.<br /> <br /> =4th April, 2014=<br /> Fixed the construction order of the bucket on the dozuki and updated the tines production process to reflect what is happening now.<br /> <br /> Had lots of problems with the wire feeder on the welder today when trying to finish the QA Lip. but we got a lot more done towards the end of the day getting most of the bucket and lip tacked in place. almost ready to start putting on the lid once those welds are finished.<br /> <br /> <br /> =2nd April, 2014=<br /> <br /> today I cut up the larger pieces of stock on the iron worker. but we had a bit of a blocker and that was 2 big pieces that need to be cut with a torch. so we couldn't continue on the main bucket apart form the side walls, but we were busy all day anyway cutting up all the other necessary parts from stock, tubing, and tacking half the teeth.<br /> <br /> I thought this was a good read<br /> <br /> http://www.thefabricator.com/article/arcwelding/22-possible-causes-of-weld-metal-porosity<br /> and this -<br /> http://www.daihen-usa.com/techtips.php<br /> <br /> The first article says porosity is necessarily a deal breaker unless its really bad or a structural requirement<br /> <br /> I learnt to day that having the angle of the tool right made a big difference at about 15 degrees off perpendicular. paint was also causing major problems, so after an initial tack i went grinding along all the seams, welded again and ground out the old bad tacks. <br /> <br /> I know Marcin didn't want us to use the grinder, but it became a necessity with the paint on the rebar that needed to be removed along the seams. I used to grind out heaps of hot water systems I used to find for scrap copper thought so i felt comfortable doing it and it was perfectly safe, I used the small grinder which I'm used to.<br /> <br /> I learnt that when tacking, if it peels a piece back in the other direction after shrinkage, that its better to tack less, just a tiny dot, so that its more malleable. then you can tack the other side more easily without breaking it and then finish with some more solid tacks.<br /> <br /> <br /> =1st April, 2014=<br /> Relocated lots of stuff in the workshop and did some cleanup. Learnt how to weld with Marcin.<br /> <br /> =31st March, 2014=<br /> Upload in progress for a you tube video showing how to produce diagrams in sketchup using scenes for dozuki.<br /> <br /> Finished the dozuki for the Soil Mixer.<br /> <br /> Found an interesting resource on hardening steel<br /> http://www.roymech.co.uk/Useful_Tables/Matter/Hardening.html<br /> <br /> =29th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> Happy birthday to me!<br /> <br /> This shows 3 channel capacitive sensing with an arduino.<br /> http://playground.arduino.cc/Main/CapacitiveSensor?from=Main.CapSense#.UzeQ0dzgg8M<br /> <br /> one thing i wonder about is interference with other objects and people around the table though. when the sense gets near the edges, this could change. i wonder if its being used for this purpose in the real world now how they deal with this issue - if it is an issue that is.<br /> <br /> if the sensor is closer to the plate, with a lower value resistor being used, then this could limit interference.<br /> <br /> using a ring or toroid will have increased sensitivity in the axis perpendicular to the ring. this is because the delta in the field is greater in this axis. good idea!<br /> http://www.agelkom.com.tr/prod02.htm<br /> <br /> you can vary pwm as cutting height is approached to get finer control and slower z speed.<br /> http://www.agelkom.com.tr/cap04_pwm_function.htm<br /> <br /> note aluminium case for shielding of circuit.<br /> http://www.cnc4pc.com/Store/osc/product_info.php?products_id=339?osCsid=9cb438690de2f645e1a951bef1ba4df8<br /> <br /> looking at the material and justins log, i like the idea of using the adafruit ultrasonic range sensor. I drew an idea for some reflector geometry to let us measure a disc pattern instead of a narrow beam.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Ultrasound_Torch_Height_Controller<br /> <br /> its clear that a capacitive solution will require totally different operation when going to a plasma cutter instead of oxy. infact, the capacitive sensor isn't even used - rather the voltage is measured between the torch and table to control height.<br /> <br /> that means two different technologies to achieve the same thing, because you need the capacitive measurement when the torch is off for the initial height.<br /> <br /> i think ultrasonic may be the way to go because it wont be affected by the two different modes of cutting. it could be cheaper, and simpler to maintain.<br /> <br /> you also need to consider height reduction after the cut commences. you could feed an isolated voltage/current measurment to tell the controlled when to drop the torch head.<br /> <br /> shielded cables are a must- some good stuff here, actually a noise reduction bible-<br /> http://www.cnccookbook.com/CCCNCNoise.html<br /> <br /> also<br /> http://www.randyray.com/tmc/rf_shielding.htm<br /> <br /> =28th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> [https://docs.google.com/drawings/d/1IMUu0otp7BRCflIRYKZ1JqR3lF3VF8OBjkPQXPQbV3A/edit created Parallel workflow diagram.] Google draw sucks though. Doesn't know how to filter images for different sizes.<br /> <br /> [http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Build_Instructions embedded this drawing into the build instructions page]<br /> <br /> Added the hinge mechanism and lid build to the dozuki for the soil mixer.<br /> <br /> =27th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> Created bunk bed design. 2 bracket pathways we need to decide on.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Bunk_Bed<br /> <br /> bunk bed specs<br /> 5'2&quot; top level for matress<br /> 1'2&quot; bottom level for matress<br /> 6'4&quot; max height<br /> <br /> moved copy from http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Fabrication_Drawings to http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Build_Instructions<br /> <br /> Setup build instructions for bucket on dozuki<br /> http://opensourceecology.dozuki.com/Guide/Installing+Soil+Mixer+-+Module+-+Bucket+The+soil+pulverizer+bucket/126?revisionid=HEAD<br /> <br /> brief discussion of using internet lines as one connection.<br /> if your going to be paying for 2 internet connections it would be good to load balance them both from one location and distribute it out from there. this would solve the problem of having large numbers of people, and since you are already paying for the second line it makes sense to do it. currently with just 10 users, 50kbit/s up is not going to cut it.<br /> <br /> running ethernet up to the micro house could be done with a switch no more than every 100 meters to boost the signal. if power is an issue power over ethernet could be used also, mentioned in this thread<br /> http://forums.whirlpool.net.au/archive/1164805<br /> <br /> so onto using two connections as one-<br /> <br /> Load balancing is easier than bonding.<br /> <br /> Bonding will double web speed for a single user with 2 internet connections. however this is unnecessary.<br /> <br /> Load balancing will not give you a maximum of 2x the speed for a single, but it will distribute traffic to each of the connections on demand if done correctly. In the real world this means with large numbers of users the web will perform just as well as in bonding. You need to make sure that with 2 connections going in that the load balancing won't just act as a failsafe - switch over to different internet connection if one fails. you want both connections to be used.<br /> <br /> http://www.increasebroadbandspeed.co.uk/what-is-adsl-load-balancing<br /> <br /> if you have a wrt54gl router this might be a good start to figuring this out.<br /> <br /> to achieve this your going to need to position those 2 adsl modems in the same location, before the load balancing hardware - router.<br /> <br /> The ISP doesn't have to know about it if you want to load balance yourself. I believe it can be done without them<br /> <br /> this guy did it with that router-<br /> http://forum.kitz.co.uk/index.php?topic=12308.msg232604#msg232604<br /> <br /> =26th March, 2014=<br /> * Measured out boards for the side rooms.<br /> * Did file format tests import into houdini.<br /> * Spoke to randy on the phone and cuts are ready for pickup. http://www.seamanschuske.com/Seaman_and_Schuske/Welcome.html<br /> <br /> It will now be possible to create a large chunk of the workflow in sketchup for documentation and build procedure. From a base model we can have in the same file procedural references for everything including<br /> *CAD layout for DXF export to CNC.<br /> *exploded view as animation<br /> *fabrication procedure as animation.<br /> *fabrication procedure frames for print manual and dozuki.<br /> <br /> what this means if the base model needs updates, all these dependencies will update too. problems are the plugin is unstable in 2014. it crashes when setting or getting states, using scenes, and also exporting .mp4 doesn't work.<br /> <br /> plan for sketchup video<br /> show dropbox sharing. show scenes, layers groups. show circles and tricks with CAD. show dxf conversion tricks and laying out in sketchup.<br /> <br /> * good sketchup video on scenes<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qEYmiKh-sqs<br /> * groups and components - make sure you know when to use which, or your file will get slow quickly.<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7V_KbxXVt0I<br /> * layers<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fBdP499iw0Y<br /> *speed enhancements<br /> https://sites.google.com/site/sketchupsage/faster<br /> <br /> *dynamic components - pro only<br /> http://help.sketchup.com/en/article/94885<br /> <br /> *plugins<br /> http://sketchucation.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=10&amp;t=36583&amp;p=322249&amp;hilit=+add+hidden+layer+#p322249<br /> <br /> Thinks like the tunes on the rototiller, or grid beam should be designated in sketchup as dynamic components. building them in other software throws away the procedural abitiy of other software, or adding complexity to do it through other plugins to enable software like freecad or open scad.<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;html&gt;&lt;script type=&quot;text/javascript&quot;<br /> data-dozuki-embed='3'<br /> src=&quot;http://d1luk0418egahw.cloudfront.net/static/embed/ifixit-embed.3.js#id=130&amp;site=opensourceecology.dozuki.com&quot;&gt;<br /> &lt;/script&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://opensourceecology.dozuki.com/Guide/Installing+Soil+Mixer+-+Module+-+Toothbar+Teeth/130&quot;&gt;Installing Soil Mixer - Module - Toothbar Teeth&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/html&gt;<br /> <br /> =25th March, 2014=<br /> *updated fabrication procedure text for marcin to review. updated exploded parts diagram and CAM layout numbering. <br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Fabrication_Drawings<br /> *added washers into sketchup file<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_3D_CAD<br /> <br /> *fixed p29 length in cam files to accomodate washers in the hinges<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_CAM<br /> <br /> *Updated cam files protocol<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/CAM_Files_Protocol#Other_Resources<br /> <br /> Note: A lot of time seems to be lost when design changes are made and dependent files on the sketchup such as the dxf, images on the wiki, and wiki uploads to keep everything current need to take place. potentially a more desirable solution would be to have the ability to synchronize all these changes at once.<br /> <br /> =24th March, 2014=<br /> [http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_CAM Updated DXF to send to seaman schuske - Randy Clinton]<br /> *increased the diameter by 1/16th on all the holes except the quick attach mount, and the 3 ground plates because they are already oversized to .625&quot;<br /> <br /> [http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_3D_CAD Updated 3D CAD Sketchup file for exploded diagram and DXF generation]<br /> <br /> <br /> [http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Exploded_Parts_Diagram Updated exploded parts diagram]<br /> <br /> *Updated fabrication diagram text.<br /> <br /> =21th March, 2014=<br /> *Updated exploded view and part numbering.<br /> [[Image:ExplodedView.jpg|400px]]<br /> <br /> *Updated CAM and CAD. Removed extra lines from CAM. fixed radius on motor holes, removed extra motor holes for bolt.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_3D_CAD<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_CAM<br /> <br /> *Added 2nd coat of lime wash to second last room.<br /> *Anthony added first coat of lime wash to last room.<br /> <br /> =20th March, 2014=<br /> *bearing spec for bolt holes is incorrect - should be .625 - http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/File:Bearing178.jpg<br /> *needed to add 4 extra holes into the sidewall<br /> *tested internet, and its not going to be fast enough for a large group of people. good for a few people, up to 4 maybe.<br /> *[http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Exploded_Parts_Diagram Added exploded parts diagram]<br /> *Rubbed out walls in last 2 east rooms. Moved the big glass sheets into the silo. Prepped whitewash and applied into the second last room.<br /> <br /> =19th March, 2014=<br /> *fixed a wheelbarrow axel by replacing the pin and putting 3 large washers on there. After pumping up the tires it'll be good as new.<br /> *mixxed approx 5 shovels of sand to 4-5 shovels of very clayey soil to plaster the window and door on the outside room. this took a lot longer than anticipated to do the job well. plastering on top of the window and door frame required almost 100% clay just to stick, I'm wondering if it will crack but it was the only way it would stick on there even with the wire mesh.<br /> *used sprayer and a damp cloth to smooth out the walls to prep for limewash<br /> *Added suggested ratio to lime wash and plaster ratio suggestion.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Lime_Plaster_and_Wash#BoM<br /> *[http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasertoc.htm came across a sweet link from anthony to make your own laser - laser sam]<br /> <br /> =18th March, 2014=<br /> Uploaded timelapse videos<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kMBSe5V7M8E<br /> <br /> Updated sketchup file to reposition the holes for the mounts. some inaccuracies were present in the components attaching to the shaft.<br /> <br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_3D_CAD<br /> <br /> sketchup note: when creating circles, you must go to window, entity info, chad change the segments from 24 to 48. most circles look like ploys other wise and this will follow through to the machine file.<br /> <br /> Moved everything from the outer rooms into office and silo. took a while because there was a lot of sorting. some things needed to be inside. <br /> <br /> applied lime wash to a wall in the middle room. tomorrow need to smooth out the rendering with a rag. also staple chicken air and get sand from micro house.<br /> <br /> tommorrow - fix sheets and dimensions. get a quote from Justin Fuston<br /> https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0ArpE5Y9PpJCXdGpUZ3dqYWw3czQzZ09IUHFpRl9VT1E#gid=0<br /> <br /> =17th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> Updated CAD. Chamfered corners, removed excess hinge parts, rotated struts 90 degrees. added gussets, but now they may not be necessary with the struts at 90 degrees. easy to remove. stacking of the hinge components around the hydraulic mechanism has been changed for better strength and ease of construction.<br /> <br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_3D_CAD<br /> <br /> This has been fixed. see video! you just need to clear the prefs.<br /> &lt;strike&gt;I also submitted a complaint to google, sketch up 2014 eliminated features in the free version of 2013 so that you have to pay for them. It's no longer possible to export to 3DS and most other pro formats now.&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> <br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A9TdFNZwLtc&amp;feature=em-upload_owner<br /> <br /> &lt;html&gt;<br /> &lt;iframe width=&quot;560&quot; height=&quot;315&quot; src=&quot;//www.youtube.com/embed/A9TdFNZwLtc&quot; frameborder=&quot;0&quot; allowfullscreen&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;<br /> &lt;/html&gt;<br /> <br /> Microhouse-<br /> - Painted walls with white.<br /> <br /> - Moved weights into the silo.<br /> <br /> - prepped lime in 1 to one in the white container.<br /> <br /> =16th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> Added dhal to recipes-<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Recipes<br /> <br /> Fixed vacuum cleaner.<br /> <br /> Setup DIY mouse trap design to drown rodents.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Mouse_trap<br /> <br /> =15th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> Recipe for Dahl. For 8 people.<br /> Awesome vegetarian power food high in protein.<br /> <br /> 4 onions.<br /> <br /> half a bulb of garlic<br /> <br /> 1.5kg lentils or split peas, soaked for as long as you can during the day, overnight if possible. if not, it will just take longer to cook but it works out fine. rinse them thoroughly!<br /> <br /> Coconut oil<br /> <br /> teaspoon whole cumin seeds<br /> <br /> cumin powder<br /> <br /> garam masala<br /> <br /> salt<br /> <br /> pepper<br /> <br /> chilli or cayenne pepper<br /> <br /> turmeric<br /> <br /> sour cream and cilantro for garnish.<br /> <br /> heat the oil and keep an eye on it so it doesn't smoke.<br /> fry the cumin seeds for a bit then add the onions and garlic on high. when the onions are clear to brown colour add 1/2 teaspoons of the rest of the spices and the lentils. add water to the pot until the lentils are just covered.<br /> keep on high heat until it starts to boil, then simmer until the lentils are soft/falling apart. this usually takes an hour.<br /> add to bowls and garnish with the cilantro and sour cream!<br /> <br /> <br /> -------<br /> <br /> <br /> Added large grain sand and clay mix to top right corner of hablab. when dried we added mist and then lime wash. it may need another layer.<br /> <br /> Painted the outside door frames yellow.<br /> <br /> Modifications added to http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Review<br /> <br /> Current design revisions-<br /> <br /> 1. Long reinforcement on edge of lid - 1/4 x 2. Current reinforcement needs to be rotated 90 degrees.<br /> <br /> 2. Centre the cylinder mount, add an extra strut for symmetry.<br /> <br /> 3. gusset 1/2&quot; x 4&quot; triangle on the rod end mount<br /> <br /> 4. 45 degrees angle on outside hinge to lip mount.<br /> <br /> =14th March, 2014=<br /> tomatoe varieties for OSE - <br /> jetstart<br /> homestead,<br /> bhn 1021<br /> defiant phr<br /> <br /> setting out planting guide for kansas city<br /> http://www.almanac.com/gardening/planting-dates/zipcode/64151<br /> <br /> =13th March, 2014=<br /> Updated cad file and range of motion. Added hinges and correct thicknesses.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_3D_CAD<br /> <br /> [[Image:sketchupModel.png|400px]]<br /> <br /> Collaboration notes: setting up remote collaboration for the design process in solid works can be aided by a synchronized web folder to users local paths. drop box achieves this but has a size limit. we need software that can do that locally to a raid array with offsite backup. Eric Potash suggested aero fs https://www.aerofs.com<br /> We also have http://www.bittorrent.com/sync which looks very promising with redundancy and http://owncloud.org<br /> <br /> Lime wash<br /> <br /> Determined that the 4 parts lime/3 parts water then salt added (salt is 1/5th the lime amount by volume, not weight) is a good mix provided the surface is smooth. On a rough surface this mix is too thick. If the mix is too thick it can crack due to shrinkage after drying.<br /> For a rough surface, this mix instead works - 1 part lime / 1 part water by volume, with salt being the same ratio as before - 1/5th the amount of lime by volume.<br /> It isn't necessary to mix the salt with more water prior to mixing with a drill in both these recipes. this was done on previous days to help mix more evenly, but these mixes are both watery enough to not worry about this.<br /> <br /> Pre misting the area before applying the lime wash prevents cracking significantly. This is done by lightly misting so the soil looks darkened and damp, but not soaking wet which affects the bond negatively. Waiting a while to see it dry a little (~30 seconds) and repeating this 4 or 5 times helps create a deeper bond into to adobe wall when the lime wash is applied.<br /> <br /> Hard synthetic brushes are ok to use only on smoothly rendered stucco, but on mud stucco these can be too abrasive and affect application. softer brushes like the thick ones we use from horse hair apply the mix really smoothly and work really well on both types of surfaces.<br /> <br /> [[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tgDarFYW7hk 4/3 mix failing in divots]]<br /> [[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QrqwRHOAA8s testing with spray]]<br /> <br /> For filling holes with earth plaster, Chris also added that they had success when mixing coarse grain sand with the clayey soil 3/1 and that there was no shrinkage problems when filling holes. they mixed it with their hands. they also sprayed the wall which helped.<br /> <br /> 3D Printer that Coulton fixed!<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MH_0sHNAd9w<br /> <br /> =12th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> *3D range of motion test for hydraulic cylinder.<br /> *http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Opening_Mechanism_Module_-_Calculations<br /> *http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/File:RangeOfMotion.png<br /> *http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Opening_Mechanism_Module_-_Bill_of_Materials<br /> *Hablab whitewash testing - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BiA1LRERXjU&amp;list=UU0Jra6oMPLejbnPr4bzxdpg<br /> <br /> Determined that thick 2 to 1 lime/water ratio is too thick and cracks in some areas. Prepping with misting the adobe layer before limewashing definitely reduces cracking.<br /> We are also testing two recipes for tomorrow. One that is 4/3 Lime/water. The other that is 1/1. We will test both of these to see which works better.<br /> <br /> <br /> =11th March, 2014=<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KjADHmrkFy4<br /> <br /> Tested different whitewash formula. it appeared that thick lime wash was less tolerant of some areas of the wall and was peeling back at some points after some time had passed. We applied a thin whitewash with the consistency of cream or milk at the end to different parts of the wall to see if we could avoid the peeling problem.<br /> <br /> Drew the clamshell mechanism and hinge in sketch up for the Soil Mixer.<br /> <br /> Screenshot<br /> [[Image:WIPsoild_mixer_and_lid.png|200px]]<br /> <br /> <br /> Sketchup in progress<br /> [[File:SoilPulverizerV1s001.skp]]<br /> <br /> =10th March, 2014=<br /> Timelapse of wall painting-<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o4bef_KFQts<br /> <br /> Helped sketch designs for soil mixer.<br /> <br /> Painted wall with Lauren and Cat. (timelapse video in progress)<br /> <br /> Cooked thai style fried rice for dinner.<br /> <br /> Commenced ideation for procedural animation of the GVCS in Houdini for documentation.<br /> <br /> =9th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> [[Soil Mixer Requirements]].<br /> <br /> Append design Rationale -<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_Construction_Set_Requirements<br /> <br /> Laid hay over the ground to stop mud being moved along the path.</div>

Andrew Graham https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=CEB_Press_6_-_Overall_Machine_-_Build_Time_Data&diff=119030 2014-04-26T15:24:17Z

<p>Andrew Graham: </p> <hr /> <div>[https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AiftBIpw4OLAdHJEd1VLRXZZNUdSUHNKeWc1RW9tVlE&amp;usp=sharing Build Data Template - Frame]<br /> <br /> [https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AiftBIpw4OLAdEhZWXBRSF9VZDdzM0tFMU9ManNOWkE&amp;usp=sharing Build Data Template - Drawer]<br /> <br /> [https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AiftBIpw4OLAdFpNMGRqYzNmUDZlNGUtd1o4MHgtbUE&amp;usp=sharing Build Data Template - Drawer Guides]<br /> <br /> [https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AiftBIpw4OLAdGFGdVJHQ0dPbFB5WVRsOGVMMTJibHc&amp;usp=sharing Build Data Template - Main Cylinder Assembly]<br /> <br /> [https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AiftBIpw4OLAdGhkdWhYMnNickJMdW5QcGpwSnhXb1E&amp;usp=sharing Build Data Template - Arms]<br /> <br /> [https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AiftBIpw4OLAdE92YmE2aGxYeEVLQmwxdmRWb3gwWGc&amp;usp=sharing Build Data Template - Hopper]<br /> <br /> [https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AiftBIpw4OLAdGZ6ZFVFSTJjNlQ4ZExzeVQ5UEhNeHc&amp;usp=sharing Build Data Template - Support Clamps]<br /> <br /> [https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AiftBIpw4OLAdGxJaXYwa3I4YUtZY0U1di16dFR0VXc&amp;usp=sharing Build Data Template - Grate]<br /> <br /> [https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AiftBIpw4OLAdHBCbXBoc0VtVzZHdGtpeHIwa1NEcXc&amp;usp=sharing Build Data Template - Legs, Feet, Hopper Supports]<br /> <br /> [https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AiftBIpw4OLAdGQ2RTRzZnJzaUliWC1YUWZ3SWlvWnc&amp;usp=sharing Build Data Template - Hopper Shaker]<br /> <br /> [https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AiftBIpw4OLAdFlla0FGRUNjdGk5SU1xQzVLRVptY2c&amp;usp=sharing Build Data Template - Secondary Cylinder Assembly]<br /> <br /> [https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AiftBIpw4OLAdF8xVW1nWHlOWVViMVN6a3pCYWRoTmc&amp;usp=sharing Build Data Template - Solenoid Assembly]<br /> <br /> [https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AiftBIpw4OLAdDZ1RHg0VFN0LW50b09ib2ZSVXV1MXc&amp;usp=sharing Build Data Template - Controller]<br /> <br /> [https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AiftBIpw4OLAdFJ2WUNZMHBKcWVqWnpmVzNJV2x5Q1E&amp;usp=sharing Build Data Template - Pressure Switch]<br /> <br /> [https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AiftBIpw4OLAdG1GT3M5ZG5QbFd6TEwwZmJQMWZKRkE&amp;usp=sharing Build Data Template - Hydraulic Hoses]</div>

Andrew Graham https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Andrew_Graham_Log&diff=119025 2014-04-25T20:13:44Z

<p>Andrew Graham: </p> <hr /> <div>=Ideas to implement=<br /> * Create a sketchup for OSE video to show how to draw with the right accuracy, increase circle segments, use hiding, snapping etc, arcs to measure etc. also how to post the final result using the dozuki cad template<br /> * it may be possible to layout 3D objects from sketchup in free cad to be flat. it could be done dynamically using python script. this would give a proper procedural workflow for dimensioning. doing it manually isn't feasible because adjustments to sketchup files are asking for trouble. When it comes to the cam process you have to do it all over again to ensure you aren't maintaining any old incorrect parts.<br /> http://www.freecadweb.org/wiki/index.php?title=Python_scripting_tutorial<br /> * Build a workflow in Houdini to dynamically build a dxf with dimensioning and instructions for fabrication<br /> * Build a procedural animation tool to follow a spreadsheet for construction order. The result from houdini would be an open GL animation of the build of the model.<br /> * Improve wiki usability with suggested extension by Kunda<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/User_talk:Andrew_Graham<br /> <br /> =To do list=<br /> * look at stucco sprayer<br /> * get dish detergent<br /> * empty ash container.<br /> * hot water flow threshold to turn on is too high. kitchen tap needs to be turned on full for it to work.<br /> * rodent problem -thorough clean of kitchen and seal food away.<br /> * Make a sign to make sure people don't burn treated pine in the fire.<br /> <br /> timezones seem incorrect?<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/File:Soil_Pulverizer.skp<br /> <br /> =25th April, 2014=<br /> created process layout for CEB press<br /> &lt;html&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://docs.google.com/drawings/d/1J3Izbcv5fDy2ITCB9SckSXit6GPZPrTc04xX8Yzs2Fs/pub?w=1651&amp;amp;h=305&quot;&gt;&lt;/html&gt;<br /> https://docs.google.com/drawings/d/1J3Izbcv5fDy2ITCB9SckSXit6GPZPrTc04xX8Yzs2Fs/edit<br /> <br /> =19th April, 2014=<br /> [http://www.xnview.com/en/xnconvert/#downloads xnview] is a must have for all dozuki users<br /> [File:Batch_resize_for_dozuki.xbs]<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/w/images/5/56/Batch_resize_for_dozuki.xbs<br /> <br /> It will resize an entire folder of images and can give a black border to put it in the right ratio for dozuki. It also helps when lots of users are trying to upload at once.<br /> <br /> Microhouse-<br /> because of variation in the concrete foundation, they were re measured on each side and checked against floor modules to see there are no surprises when they slot in.<br /> <br /> because of variation in birck szie we need half bricks to correct as early as possible to prevent parallel lines in the stacks occuring, i suggest that when the CEB press is in auto mode that because the other buttons on the interface are not useful in this state we use them for this - pressing one of these buttons can go to a half size brick mode, and another can go to a third size brick mode. this prevents slow down by getting someone to manually vary the pots when required. we just do a few of these varitions and revert back to normal funcitonality.<br /> <br /> =11th April, 2014=<br /> jar soil test<br /> http://www.ext.colostate.edu/mg/gardennotes/214.html<br /> <br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Bunk_Bed<br /> updated bunk bed sketchup and bom<br /> <br /> <br /> =10th April, 2014=<br /> We finished most of the bucket, all that needs to be done is weld the quick attach plates on the sides after the tractor loads it up.<br /> <br /> We lost a lot of time due to the shaft not being flat all the way across. its important to append this into the instrucitons. we should also note that tynes need to be drilled and then ground out flat, probably best to do it prior to welding the flats on.<br /> also brushing the shaft for a very easy fit for the bearings before fitting anything is an important thing to note for the build.<br /> <br /> we discussed making abox for the gopro hero3.<br /> <br /> the box that comes with it would be fine to just drill a hole in and use the usb cord to extend into a powergorilla or powermonkey. there are a lot of cheaper duplicates around but these are designed to be more ruggedised and have good multi voltage outputs.<br /> this one maybe overkill, but i find it has saved my bacon a number of times. if i forget to charge it its ok, I can run my gopro for maybe 3 days at least before charging again.<br /> https://www.powertraveller.com/en/shop/portable-chargers/professional/powergorilla/<br /> <br /> also the mini or the powermonkey extreme 12v would be adequate for all day timelapse<br /> https://www.powertraveller.com/en/shop/portable-chargers/professional/<br /> <br /> there is also a 3d printed box we could makle from here<br /> https://www.youmagine.com/designs/gopro-hero-3-box<br /> <br /> =9th April, 2014=<br /> need to adjust the build process for tynes. without a flat face, even working with gravity spatter on the nut is a big problem. a more robust process is to drill a hole, then use a grinder/cutter to flatten the area. this means there is no gap where the welds takes place on the nut and using this method they stayed more free<br /> <br /> =8th April, 2014=<br /> Had a very productive build day yesterday on the soil mixer. Things of note were-<br /> Putting the lid on was a bit of a challenge. We had to oxy cut the lid down a little more. we also realised that using clamp on the bottom to rest the lid on was usefull. it was to help get the lid in position with all the other welds for the hinges that need to take place.<br /> I made a mistake by welding the Hinge struts for the cylinder as part of the outside hinges on the lid. the parts look very similar, just a little shorter. it would help if we cut a bit of a different shape in the cad for easy identification. also to make sure everything is numbered.<br /> Putting on the hinges was easier than I thought. You can actually just use clamps or bolt and nuts for each part, keeping them at the 90 degree angle as in the design. Then position them in place getting everything square and tac away. This is all synced up in Trovebox and will be added to the documentation.<br /> <br /> <br /> =5th April, 2014=<br /> one guy got a bond with PLA on his 3d printer directly onto copper at 130C. that means if it works, and im sure it could, we could buy copper sheets directly at the weight price, and print the plastic layer on the back. print the layer on the other side as a resist layer and etch away. this has some potential.<br /> http://hydraraptor.blogspot.com/2010/04/cu-pla.html<br /> <br /> Here is a concept for a self aligning QA Lip<br /> <br /> [[Image:Self Aligning QA Mount.jpg|600px]]<br /> <br /> this can be improved by inverting the wedge and having it internally.<br /> <br /> =4th April, 2014=<br /> Fixed the construction order of the bucket on the dozuki and updated the tines production process to reflect what is happening now.<br /> <br /> Had lots of problems with the wire feeder on the welder today when trying to finish the QA Lip. but we got a lot more done towards the end of the day getting most of the bucket and lip tacked in place. almost ready to start putting on the lid once those welds are finished.<br /> <br /> <br /> =2nd April, 2014=<br /> <br /> today I cut up the larger pieces of stock on the iron worker. but we had a bit of a blocker and that was 2 big pieces that need to be cut with a torch. so we couldn't continue on the main bucket apart form the side walls, but we were busy all day anyway cutting up all the other necessary parts from stock, tubing, and tacking half the teeth.<br /> <br /> I thought this was a good read<br /> <br /> http://www.thefabricator.com/article/arcwelding/22-possible-causes-of-weld-metal-porosity<br /> and this -<br /> http://www.daihen-usa.com/techtips.php<br /> <br /> The first article says porosity is necessarily a deal breaker unless its really bad or a structural requirement<br /> <br /> I learnt to day that having the angle of the tool right made a big difference at about 15 degrees off perpendicular. paint was also causing major problems, so after an initial tack i went grinding along all the seams, welded again and ground out the old bad tacks. <br /> <br /> I know Marcin didn't want us to use the grinder, but it became a necessity with the paint on the rebar that needed to be removed along the seams. I used to grind out heaps of hot water systems I used to find for scrap copper thought so i felt comfortable doing it and it was perfectly safe, I used the small grinder which I'm used to.<br /> <br /> I learnt that when tacking, if it peels a piece back in the other direction after shrinkage, that its better to tack less, just a tiny dot, so that its more malleable. then you can tack the other side more easily without breaking it and then finish with some more solid tacks.<br /> <br /> <br /> =1st April, 2014=<br /> Relocated lots of stuff in the workshop and did some cleanup. Learnt how to weld with Marcin.<br /> <br /> =31st March, 2014=<br /> Upload in progress for a you tube video showing how to produce diagrams in sketchup using scenes for dozuki.<br /> <br /> Finished the dozuki for the Soil Mixer.<br /> <br /> Found an interesting resource on hardening steel<br /> http://www.roymech.co.uk/Useful_Tables/Matter/Hardening.html<br /> <br /> =29th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> Happy birthday to me!<br /> <br /> This shows 3 channel capacitive sensing with an arduino.<br /> http://playground.arduino.cc/Main/CapacitiveSensor?from=Main.CapSense#.UzeQ0dzgg8M<br /> <br /> one thing i wonder about is interference with other objects and people around the table though. when the sense gets near the edges, this could change. i wonder if its being used for this purpose in the real world now how they deal with this issue - if it is an issue that is.<br /> <br /> if the sensor is closer to the plate, with a lower value resistor being used, then this could limit interference.<br /> <br /> using a ring or toroid will have increased sensitivity in the axis perpendicular to the ring. this is because the delta in the field is greater in this axis. good idea!<br /> http://www.agelkom.com.tr/prod02.htm<br /> <br /> you can vary pwm as cutting height is approached to get finer control and slower z speed.<br /> http://www.agelkom.com.tr/cap04_pwm_function.htm<br /> <br /> note aluminium case for shielding of circuit.<br /> http://www.cnc4pc.com/Store/osc/product_info.php?products_id=339?osCsid=9cb438690de2f645e1a951bef1ba4df8<br /> <br /> looking at the material and justins log, i like the idea of using the adafruit ultrasonic range sensor. I drew an idea for some reflector geometry to let us measure a disc pattern instead of a narrow beam.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Ultrasound_Torch_Height_Controller<br /> <br /> its clear that a capacitive solution will require totally different operation when going to a plasma cutter instead of oxy. infact, the capacitive sensor isn't even used - rather the voltage is measured between the torch and table to control height.<br /> <br /> that means two different technologies to achieve the same thing, because you need the capacitive measurement when the torch is off for the initial height.<br /> <br /> i think ultrasonic may be the way to go because it wont be affected by the two different modes of cutting. it could be cheaper, and simpler to maintain.<br /> <br /> you also need to consider height reduction after the cut commences. you could feed an isolated voltage/current measurment to tell the controlled when to drop the torch head.<br /> <br /> shielded cables are a must- some good stuff here, actually a noise reduction bible-<br /> http://www.cnccookbook.com/CCCNCNoise.html<br /> <br /> also<br /> http://www.randyray.com/tmc/rf_shielding.htm<br /> <br /> =28th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> [https://docs.google.com/drawings/d/1IMUu0otp7BRCflIRYKZ1JqR3lF3VF8OBjkPQXPQbV3A/edit created Parallel workflow diagram.] Google draw sucks though. Doesn't know how to filter images for different sizes.<br /> <br /> [http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Build_Instructions embedded this drawing into the build instructions page]<br /> <br /> Added the hinge mechanism and lid build to the dozuki for the soil mixer.<br /> <br /> =27th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> Created bunk bed design. 2 bracket pathways we need to decide on.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Bunk_Bed<br /> <br /> bunk bed specs<br /> 5'2&quot; top level for matress<br /> 1'2&quot; bottom level for matress<br /> 6'4&quot; max height<br /> <br /> moved copy from http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Fabrication_Drawings to http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Build_Instructions<br /> <br /> Setup build instructions for bucket on dozuki<br /> http://opensourceecology.dozuki.com/Guide/Installing+Soil+Mixer+-+Module+-+Bucket+The+soil+pulverizer+bucket/126?revisionid=HEAD<br /> <br /> brief discussion of using internet lines as one connection.<br /> if your going to be paying for 2 internet connections it would be good to load balance them both from one location and distribute it out from there. this would solve the problem of having large numbers of people, and since you are already paying for the second line it makes sense to do it. currently with just 10 users, 50kbit/s up is not going to cut it.<br /> <br /> running ethernet up to the micro house could be done with a switch no more than every 100 meters to boost the signal. if power is an issue power over ethernet could be used also, mentioned in this thread<br /> http://forums.whirlpool.net.au/archive/1164805<br /> <br /> so onto using two connections as one-<br /> <br /> Load balancing is easier than bonding.<br /> <br /> Bonding will double web speed for a single user with 2 internet connections. however this is unnecessary.<br /> <br /> Load balancing will not give you a maximum of 2x the speed for a single, but it will distribute traffic to each of the connections on demand if done correctly. In the real world this means with large numbers of users the web will perform just as well as in bonding. You need to make sure that with 2 connections going in that the load balancing won't just act as a failsafe - switch over to different internet connection if one fails. you want both connections to be used.<br /> <br /> http://www.increasebroadbandspeed.co.uk/what-is-adsl-load-balancing<br /> <br /> if you have a wrt54gl router this might be a good start to figuring this out.<br /> <br /> to achieve this your going to need to position those 2 adsl modems in the same location, before the load balancing hardware - router.<br /> <br /> The ISP doesn't have to know about it if you want to load balance yourself. I believe it can be done without them<br /> <br /> this guy did it with that router-<br /> http://forum.kitz.co.uk/index.php?topic=12308.msg232604#msg232604<br /> <br /> =26th March, 2014=<br /> * Measured out boards for the side rooms.<br /> * Did file format tests import into houdini.<br /> * Spoke to randy on the phone and cuts are ready for pickup. http://www.seamanschuske.com/Seaman_and_Schuske/Welcome.html<br /> <br /> It will now be possible to create a large chunk of the workflow in sketchup for documentation and build procedure. From a base model we can have in the same file procedural references for everything including<br /> *CAD layout for DXF export to CNC.<br /> *exploded view as animation<br /> *fabrication procedure as animation.<br /> *fabrication procedure frames for print manual and dozuki.<br /> <br /> what this means if the base model needs updates, all these dependencies will update too. problems are the plugin is unstable in 2014. it crashes when setting or getting states, using scenes, and also exporting .mp4 doesn't work.<br /> <br /> plan for sketchup video<br /> show dropbox sharing. show scenes, layers groups. show circles and tricks with CAD. show dxf conversion tricks and laying out in sketchup.<br /> <br /> * good sketchup video on scenes<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qEYmiKh-sqs<br /> * groups and components - make sure you know when to use which, or your file will get slow quickly.<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7V_KbxXVt0I<br /> * layers<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fBdP499iw0Y<br /> *speed enhancements<br /> https://sites.google.com/site/sketchupsage/faster<br /> <br /> *dynamic components - pro only<br /> http://help.sketchup.com/en/article/94885<br /> <br /> *plugins<br /> http://sketchucation.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=10&amp;t=36583&amp;p=322249&amp;hilit=+add+hidden+layer+#p322249<br /> <br /> Thinks like the tunes on the rototiller, or grid beam should be designated in sketchup as dynamic components. building them in other software throws away the procedural abitiy of other software, or adding complexity to do it through other plugins to enable software like freecad or open scad.<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;html&gt;&lt;script type=&quot;text/javascript&quot;<br /> data-dozuki-embed='3'<br /> src=&quot;http://d1luk0418egahw.cloudfront.net/static/embed/ifixit-embed.3.js#id=130&amp;site=opensourceecology.dozuki.com&quot;&gt;<br /> &lt;/script&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://opensourceecology.dozuki.com/Guide/Installing+Soil+Mixer+-+Module+-+Toothbar+Teeth/130&quot;&gt;Installing Soil Mixer - Module - Toothbar Teeth&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/html&gt;<br /> <br /> =25th March, 2014=<br /> *updated fabrication procedure text for marcin to review. updated exploded parts diagram and CAM layout numbering. <br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Fabrication_Drawings<br /> *added washers into sketchup file<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_3D_CAD<br /> <br /> *fixed p29 length in cam files to accomodate washers in the hinges<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_CAM<br /> <br /> *Updated cam files protocol<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/CAM_Files_Protocol#Other_Resources<br /> <br /> Note: A lot of time seems to be lost when design changes are made and dependent files on the sketchup such as the dxf, images on the wiki, and wiki uploads to keep everything current need to take place. potentially a more desirable solution would be to have the ability to synchronize all these changes at once.<br /> <br /> =24th March, 2014=<br /> [http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_CAM Updated DXF to send to seaman schuske - Randy Clinton]<br /> *increased the diameter by 1/16th on all the holes except the quick attach mount, and the 3 ground plates because they are already oversized to .625&quot;<br /> <br /> [http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_3D_CAD Updated 3D CAD Sketchup file for exploded diagram and DXF generation]<br /> <br /> <br /> [http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Exploded_Parts_Diagram Updated exploded parts diagram]<br /> <br /> *Updated fabrication diagram text.<br /> <br /> =21th March, 2014=<br /> *Updated exploded view and part numbering.<br /> [[Image:ExplodedView.jpg|400px]]<br /> <br /> *Updated CAM and CAD. Removed extra lines from CAM. fixed radius on motor holes, removed extra motor holes for bolt.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_3D_CAD<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_CAM<br /> <br /> *Added 2nd coat of lime wash to second last room.<br /> *Anthony added first coat of lime wash to last room.<br /> <br /> =20th March, 2014=<br /> *bearing spec for bolt holes is incorrect - should be .625 - http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/File:Bearing178.jpg<br /> *needed to add 4 extra holes into the sidewall<br /> *tested internet, and its not going to be fast enough for a large group of people. good for a few people, up to 4 maybe.<br /> *[http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Exploded_Parts_Diagram Added exploded parts diagram]<br /> *Rubbed out walls in last 2 east rooms. Moved the big glass sheets into the silo. Prepped whitewash and applied into the second last room.<br /> <br /> =19th March, 2014=<br /> *fixed a wheelbarrow axel by replacing the pin and putting 3 large washers on there. After pumping up the tires it'll be good as new.<br /> *mixxed approx 5 shovels of sand to 4-5 shovels of very clayey soil to plaster the window and door on the outside room. this took a lot longer than anticipated to do the job well. plastering on top of the window and door frame required almost 100% clay just to stick, I'm wondering if it will crack but it was the only way it would stick on there even with the wire mesh.<br /> *used sprayer and a damp cloth to smooth out the walls to prep for limewash<br /> *Added suggested ratio to lime wash and plaster ratio suggestion.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Lime_Plaster_and_Wash#BoM<br /> *[http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasertoc.htm came across a sweet link from anthony to make your own laser - laser sam]<br /> <br /> =18th March, 2014=<br /> Uploaded timelapse videos<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kMBSe5V7M8E<br /> <br /> Updated sketchup file to reposition the holes for the mounts. some inaccuracies were present in the components attaching to the shaft.<br /> <br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_3D_CAD<br /> <br /> sketchup note: when creating circles, you must go to window, entity info, chad change the segments from 24 to 48. most circles look like ploys other wise and this will follow through to the machine file.<br /> <br /> Moved everything from the outer rooms into office and silo. took a while because there was a lot of sorting. some things needed to be inside. <br /> <br /> applied lime wash to a wall in the middle room. tomorrow need to smooth out the rendering with a rag. also staple chicken air and get sand from micro house.<br /> <br /> tommorrow - fix sheets and dimensions. get a quote from Justin Fuston<br /> https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0ArpE5Y9PpJCXdGpUZ3dqYWw3czQzZ09IUHFpRl9VT1E#gid=0<br /> <br /> =17th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> Updated CAD. Chamfered corners, removed excess hinge parts, rotated struts 90 degrees. added gussets, but now they may not be necessary with the struts at 90 degrees. easy to remove. stacking of the hinge components around the hydraulic mechanism has been changed for better strength and ease of construction.<br /> <br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_3D_CAD<br /> <br /> This has been fixed. see video! you just need to clear the prefs.<br /> &lt;strike&gt;I also submitted a complaint to google, sketch up 2014 eliminated features in the free version of 2013 so that you have to pay for them. It's no longer possible to export to 3DS and most other pro formats now.&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> <br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A9TdFNZwLtc&amp;feature=em-upload_owner<br /> <br /> &lt;html&gt;<br /> &lt;iframe width=&quot;560&quot; height=&quot;315&quot; src=&quot;//www.youtube.com/embed/A9TdFNZwLtc&quot; frameborder=&quot;0&quot; allowfullscreen&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;<br /> &lt;/html&gt;<br /> <br /> Microhouse-<br /> - Painted walls with white.<br /> <br /> - Moved weights into the silo.<br /> <br /> - prepped lime in 1 to one in the white container.<br /> <br /> =16th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> Added dhal to recipes-<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Recipes<br /> <br /> Fixed vacuum cleaner.<br /> <br /> Setup DIY mouse trap design to drown rodents.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Mouse_trap<br /> <br /> =15th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> Recipe for Dahl. For 8 people.<br /> Awesome vegetarian power food high in protein.<br /> <br /> 4 onions.<br /> <br /> half a bulb of garlic<br /> <br /> 1.5kg lentils or split peas, soaked for as long as you can during the day, overnight if possible. if not, it will just take longer to cook but it works out fine. rinse them thoroughly!<br /> <br /> Coconut oil<br /> <br /> teaspoon whole cumin seeds<br /> <br /> cumin powder<br /> <br /> garam masala<br /> <br /> salt<br /> <br /> pepper<br /> <br /> chilli or cayenne pepper<br /> <br /> turmeric<br /> <br /> sour cream and cilantro for garnish.<br /> <br /> heat the oil and keep an eye on it so it doesn't smoke.<br /> fry the cumin seeds for a bit then add the onions and garlic on high. when the onions are clear to brown colour add 1/2 teaspoons of the rest of the spices and the lentils. add water to the pot until the lentils are just covered.<br /> keep on high heat until it starts to boil, then simmer until the lentils are soft/falling apart. this usually takes an hour.<br /> add to bowls and garnish with the cilantro and sour cream!<br /> <br /> <br /> -------<br /> <br /> <br /> Added large grain sand and clay mix to top right corner of hablab. when dried we added mist and then lime wash. it may need another layer.<br /> <br /> Painted the outside door frames yellow.<br /> <br /> Modifications added to http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Review<br /> <br /> Current design revisions-<br /> <br /> 1. Long reinforcement on edge of lid - 1/4 x 2. Current reinforcement needs to be rotated 90 degrees.<br /> <br /> 2. Centre the cylinder mount, add an extra strut for symmetry.<br /> <br /> 3. gusset 1/2&quot; x 4&quot; triangle on the rod end mount<br /> <br /> 4. 45 degrees angle on outside hinge to lip mount.<br /> <br /> =14th March, 2014=<br /> tomatoe varieties for OSE - <br /> jetstart<br /> homestead,<br /> bhn 1021<br /> defiant phr<br /> <br /> setting out planting guide for kansas city<br /> http://www.almanac.com/gardening/planting-dates/zipcode/64151<br /> <br /> =13th March, 2014=<br /> Updated cad file and range of motion. Added hinges and correct thicknesses.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_3D_CAD<br /> <br /> [[Image:sketchupModel.png|400px]]<br /> <br /> Collaboration notes: setting up remote collaboration for the design process in solid works can be aided by a synchronized web folder to users local paths. drop box achieves this but has a size limit. we need software that can do that locally to a raid array with offsite backup. Eric Potash suggested aero fs https://www.aerofs.com<br /> We also have http://www.bittorrent.com/sync which looks very promising with redundancy and http://owncloud.org<br /> <br /> Lime wash<br /> <br /> Determined that the 4 parts lime/3 parts water then salt added (salt is 1/5th the lime amount by volume, not weight) is a good mix provided the surface is smooth. On a rough surface this mix is too thick. If the mix is too thick it can crack due to shrinkage after drying.<br /> For a rough surface, this mix instead works - 1 part lime / 1 part water by volume, with salt being the same ratio as before - 1/5th the amount of lime by volume.<br /> It isn't necessary to mix the salt with more water prior to mixing with a drill in both these recipes. this was done on previous days to help mix more evenly, but these mixes are both watery enough to not worry about this.<br /> <br /> Pre misting the area before applying the lime wash prevents cracking significantly. This is done by lightly misting so the soil looks darkened and damp, but not soaking wet which affects the bond negatively. Waiting a while to see it dry a little (~30 seconds) and repeating this 4 or 5 times helps create a deeper bond into to adobe wall when the lime wash is applied.<br /> <br /> Hard synthetic brushes are ok to use only on smoothly rendered stucco, but on mud stucco these can be too abrasive and affect application. softer brushes like the thick ones we use from horse hair apply the mix really smoothly and work really well on both types of surfaces.<br /> <br /> [[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tgDarFYW7hk 4/3 mix failing in divots]]<br /> [[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QrqwRHOAA8s testing with spray]]<br /> <br /> For filling holes with earth plaster, Chris also added that they had success when mixing coarse grain sand with the clayey soil 3/1 and that there was no shrinkage problems when filling holes. they mixed it with their hands. they also sprayed the wall which helped.<br /> <br /> 3D Printer that Coulton fixed!<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MH_0sHNAd9w<br /> <br /> =12th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> *3D range of motion test for hydraulic cylinder.<br /> *http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Opening_Mechanism_Module_-_Calculations<br /> *http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/File:RangeOfMotion.png<br /> *http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Opening_Mechanism_Module_-_Bill_of_Materials<br /> *Hablab whitewash testing - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BiA1LRERXjU&amp;list=UU0Jra6oMPLejbnPr4bzxdpg<br /> <br /> Determined that thick 2 to 1 lime/water ratio is too thick and cracks in some areas. Prepping with misting the adobe layer before limewashing definitely reduces cracking.<br /> We are also testing two recipes for tomorrow. One that is 4/3 Lime/water. The other that is 1/1. We will test both of these to see which works better.<br /> <br /> <br /> =11th March, 2014=<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KjADHmrkFy4<br /> <br /> Tested different whitewash formula. it appeared that thick lime wash was less tolerant of some areas of the wall and was peeling back at some points after some time had passed. We applied a thin whitewash with the consistency of cream or milk at the end to different parts of the wall to see if we could avoid the peeling problem.<br /> <br /> Drew the clamshell mechanism and hinge in sketch up for the Soil Mixer.<br /> <br /> Screenshot<br /> [[Image:WIPsoild_mixer_and_lid.png|200px]]<br /> <br /> <br /> Sketchup in progress<br /> [[File:SoilPulverizerV1s001.skp]]<br /> <br /> =10th March, 2014=<br /> Timelapse of wall painting-<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o4bef_KFQts<br /> <br /> Helped sketch designs for soil mixer.<br /> <br /> Painted wall with Lauren and Cat. (timelapse video in progress)<br /> <br /> Cooked thai style fried rice for dinner.<br /> <br /> Commenced ideation for procedural animation of the GVCS in Houdini for documentation.<br /> <br /> =9th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> [[Soil Mixer Requirements]].<br /> <br /> Append design Rationale -<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_Construction_Set_Requirements<br /> <br /> Laid hay over the ground to stop mud being moved along the path.</div>

Andrew Graham https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Andrew_Graham_Log&diff=118791 2014-04-19T23:09:44Z

<p>Andrew Graham: /* 19th April, 2014 */</p> <hr /> <div>=Ideas to implement=<br /> * Create a sketchup for OSE video to show how to draw with the right accuracy, increase circle segments, use hiding, snapping etc, arcs to measure etc. also how to post the final result using the dozuki cad template<br /> * it may be possible to layout 3D objects from sketchup in free cad to be flat. it could be done dynamically using python script. this would give a proper procedural workflow for dimensioning. doing it manually isn't feasible because adjustments to sketchup files are asking for trouble. When it comes to the cam process you have to do it all over again to ensure you aren't maintaining any old incorrect parts.<br /> http://www.freecadweb.org/wiki/index.php?title=Python_scripting_tutorial<br /> * Build a workflow in Houdini to dynamically build a dxf with dimensioning and instructions for fabrication<br /> * Build a procedural animation tool to follow a spreadsheet for construction order. The result from houdini would be an open GL animation of the build of the model.<br /> * Improve wiki usability with suggested extension by Kunda<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/User_talk:Andrew_Graham<br /> <br /> =To do list=<br /> * look at stucco sprayer<br /> * get dish detergent<br /> * empty ash container.<br /> * hot water flow threshold to turn on is too high. kitchen tap needs to be turned on full for it to work.<br /> * rodent problem -thorough clean of kitchen and seal food away.<br /> * Make a sign to make sure people don't burn treated pine in the fire.<br /> <br /> timezones seem incorrect?<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/File:Soil_Pulverizer.skp<br /> <br /> =19th April, 2014=<br /> [http://www.xnview.com/en/xnconvert/#downloads xnview] is a must have for all dozuki users<br /> [File:Batch_resize_for_dozuki.xbs]<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/w/images/5/56/Batch_resize_for_dozuki.xbs<br /> <br /> It will resize an entire folder of images and can give a black border to put it in the right ratio for dozuki. It also helps when lots of users are trying to upload at once.<br /> <br /> Microhouse-<br /> because of variation in the concrete foundation, they were re measured on each side and checked against floor modules to see there are no surprises when they slot in.<br /> <br /> because of variation in birck szie we need half bricks to correct as early as possible to prevent parallel lines in the stacks occuring, i suggest that when the CEB press is in auto mode that because the other buttons on the interface are not useful in this state we use them for this - pressing one of these buttons can go to a half size brick mode, and another can go to a third size brick mode. this prevents slow down by getting someone to manually vary the pots when required. we just do a few of these varitions and revert back to normal funcitonality.<br /> <br /> =11th April, 2014=<br /> jar soil test<br /> http://www.ext.colostate.edu/mg/gardennotes/214.html<br /> <br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Bunk_Bed<br /> updated bunk bed sketchup and bom<br /> <br /> <br /> =10th April, 2014=<br /> We finished most of the bucket, all that needs to be done is weld the quick attach plates on the sides after the tractor loads it up.<br /> <br /> We lost a lot of time due to the shaft not being flat all the way across. its important to append this into the instrucitons. we should also note that tynes need to be drilled and then ground out flat, probably best to do it prior to welding the flats on.<br /> also brushing the shaft for a very easy fit for the bearings before fitting anything is an important thing to note for the build.<br /> <br /> we discussed making abox for the gopro hero3.<br /> <br /> the box that comes with it would be fine to just drill a hole in and use the usb cord to extend into a powergorilla or powermonkey. there are a lot of cheaper duplicates around but these are designed to be more ruggedised and have good multi voltage outputs.<br /> this one maybe overkill, but i find it has saved my bacon a number of times. if i forget to charge it its ok, I can run my gopro for maybe 3 days at least before charging again.<br /> https://www.powertraveller.com/en/shop/portable-chargers/professional/powergorilla/<br /> <br /> also the mini or the powermonkey extreme 12v would be adequate for all day timelapse<br /> https://www.powertraveller.com/en/shop/portable-chargers/professional/<br /> <br /> there is also a 3d printed box we could makle from here<br /> https://www.youmagine.com/designs/gopro-hero-3-box<br /> <br /> =9th April, 2014=<br /> need to adjust the build process for tynes. without a flat face, even working with gravity spatter on the nut is a big problem. a more robust process is to drill a hole, then use a grinder/cutter to flatten the area. this means there is no gap where the welds takes place on the nut and using this method they stayed more free<br /> <br /> =8th April, 2014=<br /> Had a very productive build day yesterday on the soil mixer. Things of note were-<br /> Putting the lid on was a bit of a challenge. We had to oxy cut the lid down a little more. we also realised that using clamp on the bottom to rest the lid on was usefull. it was to help get the lid in position with all the other welds for the hinges that need to take place.<br /> I made a mistake by welding the Hinge struts for the cylinder as part of the outside hinges on the lid. the parts look very similar, just a little shorter. it would help if we cut a bit of a different shape in the cad for easy identification. also to make sure everything is numbered.<br /> Putting on the hinges was easier than I thought. You can actually just use clamps or bolt and nuts for each part, keeping them at the 90 degree angle as in the design. Then position them in place getting everything square and tac away. This is all synced up in Trovebox and will be added to the documentation.<br /> <br /> <br /> =5th April, 2014=<br /> one guy got a bond with PLA on his 3d printer directly onto copper at 130C. that means if it works, and im sure it could, we could buy copper sheets directly at the weight price, and print the plastic layer on the back. print the layer on the other side as a resist layer and etch away. this has some potential.<br /> http://hydraraptor.blogspot.com/2010/04/cu-pla.html<br /> <br /> Here is a concept for a self aligning QA Lip<br /> <br /> [[Image:Self Aligning QA Mount.jpg|600px]]<br /> <br /> this can be improved by inverting the wedge and having it internally.<br /> <br /> =4th April, 2014=<br /> Fixed the construction order of the bucket on the dozuki and updated the tines production process to reflect what is happening now.<br /> <br /> Had lots of problems with the wire feeder on the welder today when trying to finish the QA Lip. but we got a lot more done towards the end of the day getting most of the bucket and lip tacked in place. almost ready to start putting on the lid once those welds are finished.<br /> <br /> <br /> =2nd April, 2014=<br /> <br /> today I cut up the larger pieces of stock on the iron worker. but we had a bit of a blocker and that was 2 big pieces that need to be cut with a torch. so we couldn't continue on the main bucket apart form the side walls, but we were busy all day anyway cutting up all the other necessary parts from stock, tubing, and tacking half the teeth.<br /> <br /> I thought this was a good read<br /> <br /> http://www.thefabricator.com/article/arcwelding/22-possible-causes-of-weld-metal-porosity<br /> and this -<br /> http://www.daihen-usa.com/techtips.php<br /> <br /> The first article says porosity is necessarily a deal breaker unless its really bad or a structural requirement<br /> <br /> I learnt to day that having the angle of the tool right made a big difference at about 15 degrees off perpendicular. paint was also causing major problems, so after an initial tack i went grinding along all the seams, welded again and ground out the old bad tacks. <br /> <br /> I know Marcin didn't want us to use the grinder, but it became a necessity with the paint on the rebar that needed to be removed along the seams. I used to grind out heaps of hot water systems I used to find for scrap copper thought so i felt comfortable doing it and it was perfectly safe, I used the small grinder which I'm used to.<br /> <br /> I learnt that when tacking, if it peels a piece back in the other direction after shrinkage, that its better to tack less, just a tiny dot, so that its more malleable. then you can tack the other side more easily without breaking it and then finish with some more solid tacks.<br /> <br /> <br /> =1st April, 2014=<br /> Relocated lots of stuff in the workshop and did some cleanup. Learnt how to weld with Marcin.<br /> <br /> =31st March, 2014=<br /> Upload in progress for a you tube video showing how to produce diagrams in sketchup using scenes for dozuki.<br /> <br /> Finished the dozuki for the Soil Mixer.<br /> <br /> Found an interesting resource on hardening steel<br /> http://www.roymech.co.uk/Useful_Tables/Matter/Hardening.html<br /> <br /> =29th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> Happy birthday to me!<br /> <br /> This shows 3 channel capacitive sensing with an arduino.<br /> http://playground.arduino.cc/Main/CapacitiveSensor?from=Main.CapSense#.UzeQ0dzgg8M<br /> <br /> one thing i wonder about is interference with other objects and people around the table though. when the sense gets near the edges, this could change. i wonder if its being used for this purpose in the real world now how they deal with this issue - if it is an issue that is.<br /> <br /> if the sensor is closer to the plate, with a lower value resistor being used, then this could limit interference.<br /> <br /> using a ring or toroid will have increased sensitivity in the axis perpendicular to the ring. this is because the delta in the field is greater in this axis. good idea!<br /> http://www.agelkom.com.tr/prod02.htm<br /> <br /> you can vary pwm as cutting height is approached to get finer control and slower z speed.<br /> http://www.agelkom.com.tr/cap04_pwm_function.htm<br /> <br /> note aluminium case for shielding of circuit.<br /> http://www.cnc4pc.com/Store/osc/product_info.php?products_id=339?osCsid=9cb438690de2f645e1a951bef1ba4df8<br /> <br /> looking at the material and justins log, i like the idea of using the adafruit ultrasonic range sensor. I drew an idea for some reflector geometry to let us measure a disc pattern instead of a narrow beam.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Ultrasound_Torch_Height_Controller<br /> <br /> its clear that a capacitive solution will require totally different operation when going to a plasma cutter instead of oxy. infact, the capacitive sensor isn't even used - rather the voltage is measured between the torch and table to control height.<br /> <br /> that means two different technologies to achieve the same thing, because you need the capacitive measurement when the torch is off for the initial height.<br /> <br /> i think ultrasonic may be the way to go because it wont be affected by the two different modes of cutting. it could be cheaper, and simpler to maintain.<br /> <br /> you also need to consider height reduction after the cut commences. you could feed an isolated voltage/current measurment to tell the controlled when to drop the torch head.<br /> <br /> shielded cables are a must- some good stuff here, actually a noise reduction bible-<br /> http://www.cnccookbook.com/CCCNCNoise.html<br /> <br /> also<br /> http://www.randyray.com/tmc/rf_shielding.htm<br /> <br /> =28th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> [https://docs.google.com/drawings/d/1IMUu0otp7BRCflIRYKZ1JqR3lF3VF8OBjkPQXPQbV3A/edit created Parallel workflow diagram.] Google draw sucks though. Doesn't know how to filter images for different sizes.<br /> <br /> [http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Build_Instructions embedded this drawing into the build instructions page]<br /> <br /> Added the hinge mechanism and lid build to the dozuki for the soil mixer.<br /> <br /> =27th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> Created bunk bed design. 2 bracket pathways we need to decide on.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Bunk_Bed<br /> <br /> bunk bed specs<br /> 5'2&quot; top level for matress<br /> 1'2&quot; bottom level for matress<br /> 6'4&quot; max height<br /> <br /> moved copy from http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Fabrication_Drawings to http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Build_Instructions<br /> <br /> Setup build instructions for bucket on dozuki<br /> http://opensourceecology.dozuki.com/Guide/Installing+Soil+Mixer+-+Module+-+Bucket+The+soil+pulverizer+bucket/126?revisionid=HEAD<br /> <br /> brief discussion of using internet lines as one connection.<br /> if your going to be paying for 2 internet connections it would be good to load balance them both from one location and distribute it out from there. this would solve the problem of having large numbers of people, and since you are already paying for the second line it makes sense to do it. currently with just 10 users, 50kbit/s up is not going to cut it.<br /> <br /> running ethernet up to the micro house could be done with a switch no more than every 100 meters to boost the signal. if power is an issue power over ethernet could be used also, mentioned in this thread<br /> http://forums.whirlpool.net.au/archive/1164805<br /> <br /> so onto using two connections as one-<br /> <br /> Load balancing is easier than bonding.<br /> <br /> Bonding will double web speed for a single user with 2 internet connections. however this is unnecessary.<br /> <br /> Load balancing will not give you a maximum of 2x the speed for a single, but it will distribute traffic to each of the connections on demand if done correctly. In the real world this means with large numbers of users the web will perform just as well as in bonding. You need to make sure that with 2 connections going in that the load balancing won't just act as a failsafe - switch over to different internet connection if one fails. you want both connections to be used.<br /> <br /> http://www.increasebroadbandspeed.co.uk/what-is-adsl-load-balancing<br /> <br /> if you have a wrt54gl router this might be a good start to figuring this out.<br /> <br /> to achieve this your going to need to position those 2 adsl modems in the same location, before the load balancing hardware - router.<br /> <br /> The ISP doesn't have to know about it if you want to load balance yourself. I believe it can be done without them<br /> <br /> this guy did it with that router-<br /> http://forum.kitz.co.uk/index.php?topic=12308.msg232604#msg232604<br /> <br /> =26th March, 2014=<br /> * Measured out boards for the side rooms.<br /> * Did file format tests import into houdini.<br /> * Spoke to randy on the phone and cuts are ready for pickup. http://www.seamanschuske.com/Seaman_and_Schuske/Welcome.html<br /> <br /> It will now be possible to create a large chunk of the workflow in sketchup for documentation and build procedure. From a base model we can have in the same file procedural references for everything including<br /> *CAD layout for DXF export to CNC.<br /> *exploded view as animation<br /> *fabrication procedure as animation.<br /> *fabrication procedure frames for print manual and dozuki.<br /> <br /> what this means if the base model needs updates, all these dependencies will update too. problems are the plugin is unstable in 2014. it crashes when setting or getting states, using scenes, and also exporting .mp4 doesn't work.<br /> <br /> plan for sketchup video<br /> show dropbox sharing. show scenes, layers groups. show circles and tricks with CAD. show dxf conversion tricks and laying out in sketchup.<br /> <br /> * good sketchup video on scenes<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qEYmiKh-sqs<br /> * groups and components - make sure you know when to use which, or your file will get slow quickly.<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7V_KbxXVt0I<br /> * layers<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fBdP499iw0Y<br /> *speed enhancements<br /> https://sites.google.com/site/sketchupsage/faster<br /> <br /> *dynamic components - pro only<br /> http://help.sketchup.com/en/article/94885<br /> <br /> *plugins<br /> http://sketchucation.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=10&amp;t=36583&amp;p=322249&amp;hilit=+add+hidden+layer+#p322249<br /> <br /> Thinks like the tunes on the rototiller, or grid beam should be designated in sketchup as dynamic components. building them in other software throws away the procedural abitiy of other software, or adding complexity to do it through other plugins to enable software like freecad or open scad.<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;html&gt;&lt;script type=&quot;text/javascript&quot;<br /> data-dozuki-embed='3'<br /> src=&quot;http://d1luk0418egahw.cloudfront.net/static/embed/ifixit-embed.3.js#id=130&amp;site=opensourceecology.dozuki.com&quot;&gt;<br /> &lt;/script&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://opensourceecology.dozuki.com/Guide/Installing+Soil+Mixer+-+Module+-+Toothbar+Teeth/130&quot;&gt;Installing Soil Mixer - Module - Toothbar Teeth&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/html&gt;<br /> <br /> =25th March, 2014=<br /> *updated fabrication procedure text for marcin to review. updated exploded parts diagram and CAM layout numbering. <br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Fabrication_Drawings<br /> *added washers into sketchup file<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_3D_CAD<br /> <br /> *fixed p29 length in cam files to accomodate washers in the hinges<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_CAM<br /> <br /> *Updated cam files protocol<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/CAM_Files_Protocol#Other_Resources<br /> <br /> Note: A lot of time seems to be lost when design changes are made and dependent files on the sketchup such as the dxf, images on the wiki, and wiki uploads to keep everything current need to take place. potentially a more desirable solution would be to have the ability to synchronize all these changes at once.<br /> <br /> =24th March, 2014=<br /> [http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_CAM Updated DXF to send to seaman schuske - Randy Clinton]<br /> *increased the diameter by 1/16th on all the holes except the quick attach mount, and the 3 ground plates because they are already oversized to .625&quot;<br /> <br /> [http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_3D_CAD Updated 3D CAD Sketchup file for exploded diagram and DXF generation]<br /> <br /> <br /> [http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Exploded_Parts_Diagram Updated exploded parts diagram]<br /> <br /> *Updated fabrication diagram text.<br /> <br /> =21th March, 2014=<br /> *Updated exploded view and part numbering.<br /> [[Image:ExplodedView.jpg|400px]]<br /> <br /> *Updated CAM and CAD. Removed extra lines from CAM. fixed radius on motor holes, removed extra motor holes for bolt.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_3D_CAD<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_CAM<br /> <br /> *Added 2nd coat of lime wash to second last room.<br /> *Anthony added first coat of lime wash to last room.<br /> <br /> =20th March, 2014=<br /> *bearing spec for bolt holes is incorrect - should be .625 - http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/File:Bearing178.jpg<br /> *needed to add 4 extra holes into the sidewall<br /> *tested internet, and its not going to be fast enough for a large group of people. good for a few people, up to 4 maybe.<br /> *[http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Exploded_Parts_Diagram Added exploded parts diagram]<br /> *Rubbed out walls in last 2 east rooms. Moved the big glass sheets into the silo. Prepped whitewash and applied into the second last room.<br /> <br /> =19th March, 2014=<br /> *fixed a wheelbarrow axel by replacing the pin and putting 3 large washers on there. After pumping up the tires it'll be good as new.<br /> *mixxed approx 5 shovels of sand to 4-5 shovels of very clayey soil to plaster the window and door on the outside room. this took a lot longer than anticipated to do the job well. plastering on top of the window and door frame required almost 100% clay just to stick, I'm wondering if it will crack but it was the only way it would stick on there even with the wire mesh.<br /> *used sprayer and a damp cloth to smooth out the walls to prep for limewash<br /> *Added suggested ratio to lime wash and plaster ratio suggestion.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Lime_Plaster_and_Wash#BoM<br /> *[http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasertoc.htm came across a sweet link from anthony to make your own laser - laser sam]<br /> <br /> =18th March, 2014=<br /> Uploaded timelapse videos<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kMBSe5V7M8E<br /> <br /> Updated sketchup file to reposition the holes for the mounts. some inaccuracies were present in the components attaching to the shaft.<br /> <br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_3D_CAD<br /> <br /> sketchup note: when creating circles, you must go to window, entity info, chad change the segments from 24 to 48. most circles look like ploys other wise and this will follow through to the machine file.<br /> <br /> Moved everything from the outer rooms into office and silo. took a while because there was a lot of sorting. some things needed to be inside. <br /> <br /> applied lime wash to a wall in the middle room. tomorrow need to smooth out the rendering with a rag. also staple chicken air and get sand from micro house.<br /> <br /> tommorrow - fix sheets and dimensions. get a quote from Justin Fuston<br /> https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0ArpE5Y9PpJCXdGpUZ3dqYWw3czQzZ09IUHFpRl9VT1E#gid=0<br /> <br /> =17th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> Updated CAD. Chamfered corners, removed excess hinge parts, rotated struts 90 degrees. added gussets, but now they may not be necessary with the struts at 90 degrees. easy to remove. stacking of the hinge components around the hydraulic mechanism has been changed for better strength and ease of construction.<br /> <br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_3D_CAD<br /> <br /> This has been fixed. see video! you just need to clear the prefs.<br /> &lt;strike&gt;I also submitted a complaint to google, sketch up 2014 eliminated features in the free version of 2013 so that you have to pay for them. It's no longer possible to export to 3DS and most other pro formats now.&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> <br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A9TdFNZwLtc&amp;feature=em-upload_owner<br /> <br /> &lt;html&gt;<br /> &lt;iframe width=&quot;560&quot; height=&quot;315&quot; src=&quot;//www.youtube.com/embed/A9TdFNZwLtc&quot; frameborder=&quot;0&quot; allowfullscreen&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;<br /> &lt;/html&gt;<br /> <br /> Microhouse-<br /> - Painted walls with white.<br /> <br /> - Moved weights into the silo.<br /> <br /> - prepped lime in 1 to one in the white container.<br /> <br /> =16th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> Added dhal to recipes-<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Recipes<br /> <br /> Fixed vacuum cleaner.<br /> <br /> Setup DIY mouse trap design to drown rodents.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Mouse_trap<br /> <br /> =15th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> Recipe for Dahl. For 8 people.<br /> Awesome vegetarian power food high in protein.<br /> <br /> 4 onions.<br /> <br /> half a bulb of garlic<br /> <br /> 1.5kg lentils or split peas, soaked for as long as you can during the day, overnight if possible. if not, it will just take longer to cook but it works out fine. rinse them thoroughly!<br /> <br /> Coconut oil<br /> <br /> teaspoon whole cumin seeds<br /> <br /> cumin powder<br /> <br /> garam masala<br /> <br /> salt<br /> <br /> pepper<br /> <br /> chilli or cayenne pepper<br /> <br /> turmeric<br /> <br /> sour cream and cilantro for garnish.<br /> <br /> heat the oil and keep an eye on it so it doesn't smoke.<br /> fry the cumin seeds for a bit then add the onions and garlic on high. when the onions are clear to brown colour add 1/2 teaspoons of the rest of the spices and the lentils. add water to the pot until the lentils are just covered.<br /> keep on high heat until it starts to boil, then simmer until the lentils are soft/falling apart. this usually takes an hour.<br /> add to bowls and garnish with the cilantro and sour cream!<br /> <br /> <br /> -------<br /> <br /> <br /> Added large grain sand and clay mix to top right corner of hablab. when dried we added mist and then lime wash. it may need another layer.<br /> <br /> Painted the outside door frames yellow.<br /> <br /> Modifications added to http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Review<br /> <br /> Current design revisions-<br /> <br /> 1. Long reinforcement on edge of lid - 1/4 x 2. Current reinforcement needs to be rotated 90 degrees.<br /> <br /> 2. Centre the cylinder mount, add an extra strut for symmetry.<br /> <br /> 3. gusset 1/2&quot; x 4&quot; triangle on the rod end mount<br /> <br /> 4. 45 degrees angle on outside hinge to lip mount.<br /> <br /> =14th March, 2014=<br /> tomatoe varieties for OSE - <br /> jetstart<br /> homestead,<br /> bhn 1021<br /> defiant phr<br /> <br /> setting out planting guide for kansas city<br /> http://www.almanac.com/gardening/planting-dates/zipcode/64151<br /> <br /> =13th March, 2014=<br /> Updated cad file and range of motion. Added hinges and correct thicknesses.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_3D_CAD<br /> <br /> [[Image:sketchupModel.png|400px]]<br /> <br /> Collaboration notes: setting up remote collaboration for the design process in solid works can be aided by a synchronized web folder to users local paths. drop box achieves this but has a size limit. we need software that can do that locally to a raid array with offsite backup. Eric Potash suggested aero fs https://www.aerofs.com<br /> We also have http://www.bittorrent.com/sync which looks very promising with redundancy and http://owncloud.org<br /> <br /> Lime wash<br /> <br /> Determined that the 4 parts lime/3 parts water then salt added (salt is 1/5th the lime amount by volume, not weight) is a good mix provided the surface is smooth. On a rough surface this mix is too thick. If the mix is too thick it can crack due to shrinkage after drying.<br /> For a rough surface, this mix instead works - 1 part lime / 1 part water by volume, with salt being the same ratio as before - 1/5th the amount of lime by volume.<br /> It isn't necessary to mix the salt with more water prior to mixing with a drill in both these recipes. this was done on previous days to help mix more evenly, but these mixes are both watery enough to not worry about this.<br /> <br /> Pre misting the area before applying the lime wash prevents cracking significantly. This is done by lightly misting so the soil looks darkened and damp, but not soaking wet which affects the bond negatively. Waiting a while to see it dry a little (~30 seconds) and repeating this 4 or 5 times helps create a deeper bond into to adobe wall when the lime wash is applied.<br /> <br /> Hard synthetic brushes are ok to use only on smoothly rendered stucco, but on mud stucco these can be too abrasive and affect application. softer brushes like the thick ones we use from horse hair apply the mix really smoothly and work really well on both types of surfaces.<br /> <br /> [[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tgDarFYW7hk 4/3 mix failing in divots]]<br /> [[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QrqwRHOAA8s testing with spray]]<br /> <br /> For filling holes with earth plaster, Chris also added that they had success when mixing coarse grain sand with the clayey soil 3/1 and that there was no shrinkage problems when filling holes. they mixed it with their hands. they also sprayed the wall which helped.<br /> <br /> 3D Printer that Coulton fixed!<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MH_0sHNAd9w<br /> <br /> =12th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> *3D range of motion test for hydraulic cylinder.<br /> *http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Opening_Mechanism_Module_-_Calculations<br /> *http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/File:RangeOfMotion.png<br /> *http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Opening_Mechanism_Module_-_Bill_of_Materials<br /> *Hablab whitewash testing - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BiA1LRERXjU&amp;list=UU0Jra6oMPLejbnPr4bzxdpg<br /> <br /> Determined that thick 2 to 1 lime/water ratio is too thick and cracks in some areas. Prepping with misting the adobe layer before limewashing definitely reduces cracking.<br /> We are also testing two recipes for tomorrow. One that is 4/3 Lime/water. The other that is 1/1. We will test both of these to see which works better.<br /> <br /> <br /> =11th March, 2014=<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KjADHmrkFy4<br /> <br /> Tested different whitewash formula. it appeared that thick lime wash was less tolerant of some areas of the wall and was peeling back at some points after some time had passed. We applied a thin whitewash with the consistency of cream or milk at the end to different parts of the wall to see if we could avoid the peeling problem.<br /> <br /> Drew the clamshell mechanism and hinge in sketch up for the Soil Mixer.<br /> <br /> Screenshot<br /> [[Image:WIPsoild_mixer_and_lid.png|200px]]<br /> <br /> <br /> Sketchup in progress<br /> [[File:SoilPulverizerV1s001.skp]]<br /> <br /> =10th March, 2014=<br /> Timelapse of wall painting-<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o4bef_KFQts<br /> <br /> Helped sketch designs for soil mixer.<br /> <br /> Painted wall with Lauren and Cat. (timelapse video in progress)<br /> <br /> Cooked thai style fried rice for dinner.<br /> <br /> Commenced ideation for procedural animation of the GVCS in Houdini for documentation.<br /> <br /> =9th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> [[Soil Mixer Requirements]].<br /> <br /> Append design Rationale -<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_Construction_Set_Requirements<br /> <br /> Laid hay over the ground to stop mud being moved along the path.</div>

Andrew Graham https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Andrew_Graham_Log&diff=118784 2014-04-19T19:06:05Z

<p>Andrew Graham: /* 19th April, 2014 */</p> <hr /> <div>=Ideas to implement=<br /> * Create a sketchup for OSE video to show how to draw with the right accuracy, increase circle segments, use hiding, snapping etc, arcs to measure etc. also how to post the final result using the dozuki cad template<br /> * it may be possible to layout 3D objects from sketchup in free cad to be flat. it could be done dynamically using python script. this would give a proper procedural workflow for dimensioning. doing it manually isn't feasible because adjustments to sketchup files are asking for trouble. When it comes to the cam process you have to do it all over again to ensure you aren't maintaining any old incorrect parts.<br /> http://www.freecadweb.org/wiki/index.php?title=Python_scripting_tutorial<br /> * Build a workflow in Houdini to dynamically build a dxf with dimensioning and instructions for fabrication<br /> * Build a procedural animation tool to follow a spreadsheet for construction order. The result from houdini would be an open GL animation of the build of the model.<br /> * Improve wiki usability with suggested extension by Kunda<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/User_talk:Andrew_Graham<br /> <br /> =To do list=<br /> * look at stucco sprayer<br /> * get dish detergent<br /> * empty ash container.<br /> * hot water flow threshold to turn on is too high. kitchen tap needs to be turned on full for it to work.<br /> * rodent problem -thorough clean of kitchen and seal food away.<br /> * Make a sign to make sure people don't burn treated pine in the fire.<br /> <br /> timezones seem incorrect?<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/File:Soil_Pulverizer.skp<br /> <br /> =19th April, 2014=<br /> [http://www.xnview.com/en/xnconvert/#downloads xnview] is a must have for all dozuki users<br /> [File:Batch_resize_for_dozuki.xbs]<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/w/images/5/56/Batch_resize_for_dozuki.xbs<br /> <br /> It will resize an entire folder of images and can give a black border to put it in the right ratio for dozuki. It also helps when lots of users are trying to upload at once.<br /> <br /> =11th April, 2014=<br /> jar soil test<br /> http://www.ext.colostate.edu/mg/gardennotes/214.html<br /> <br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Bunk_Bed<br /> updated bunk bed sketchup and bom<br /> <br /> <br /> =10th April, 2014=<br /> We finished most of the bucket, all that needs to be done is weld the quick attach plates on the sides after the tractor loads it up.<br /> <br /> We lost a lot of time due to the shaft not being flat all the way across. its important to append this into the instrucitons. we should also note that tynes need to be drilled and then ground out flat, probably best to do it prior to welding the flats on.<br /> also brushing the shaft for a very easy fit for the bearings before fitting anything is an important thing to note for the build.<br /> <br /> we discussed making abox for the gopro hero3.<br /> <br /> the box that comes with it would be fine to just drill a hole in and use the usb cord to extend into a powergorilla or powermonkey. there are a lot of cheaper duplicates around but these are designed to be more ruggedised and have good multi voltage outputs.<br /> this one maybe overkill, but i find it has saved my bacon a number of times. if i forget to charge it its ok, I can run my gopro for maybe 3 days at least before charging again.<br /> https://www.powertraveller.com/en/shop/portable-chargers/professional/powergorilla/<br /> <br /> also the mini or the powermonkey extreme 12v would be adequate for all day timelapse<br /> https://www.powertraveller.com/en/shop/portable-chargers/professional/<br /> <br /> there is also a 3d printed box we could makle from here<br /> https://www.youmagine.com/designs/gopro-hero-3-box<br /> <br /> =9th April, 2014=<br /> need to adjust the build process for tynes. without a flat face, even working with gravity spatter on the nut is a big problem. a more robust process is to drill a hole, then use a grinder/cutter to flatten the area. this means there is no gap where the welds takes place on the nut and using this method they stayed more free<br /> <br /> =8th April, 2014=<br /> Had a very productive build day yesterday on the soil mixer. Things of note were-<br /> Putting the lid on was a bit of a challenge. We had to oxy cut the lid down a little more. we also realised that using clamp on the bottom to rest the lid on was usefull. it was to help get the lid in position with all the other welds for the hinges that need to take place.<br /> I made a mistake by welding the Hinge struts for the cylinder as part of the outside hinges on the lid. the parts look very similar, just a little shorter. it would help if we cut a bit of a different shape in the cad for easy identification. also to make sure everything is numbered.<br /> Putting on the hinges was easier than I thought. You can actually just use clamps or bolt and nuts for each part, keeping them at the 90 degree angle as in the design. Then position them in place getting everything square and tac away. This is all synced up in Trovebox and will be added to the documentation.<br /> <br /> <br /> =5th April, 2014=<br /> one guy got a bond with PLA on his 3d printer directly onto copper at 130C. that means if it works, and im sure it could, we could buy copper sheets directly at the weight price, and print the plastic layer on the back. print the layer on the other side as a resist layer and etch away. this has some potential.<br /> http://hydraraptor.blogspot.com/2010/04/cu-pla.html<br /> <br /> Here is a concept for a self aligning QA Lip<br /> <br /> [[Image:Self Aligning QA Mount.jpg|600px]]<br /> <br /> this can be improved by inverting the wedge and having it internally.<br /> <br /> =4th April, 2014=<br /> Fixed the construction order of the bucket on the dozuki and updated the tines production process to reflect what is happening now.<br /> <br /> Had lots of problems with the wire feeder on the welder today when trying to finish the QA Lip. but we got a lot more done towards the end of the day getting most of the bucket and lip tacked in place. almost ready to start putting on the lid once those welds are finished.<br /> <br /> <br /> =2nd April, 2014=<br /> <br /> today I cut up the larger pieces of stock on the iron worker. but we had a bit of a blocker and that was 2 big pieces that need to be cut with a torch. so we couldn't continue on the main bucket apart form the side walls, but we were busy all day anyway cutting up all the other necessary parts from stock, tubing, and tacking half the teeth.<br /> <br /> I thought this was a good read<br /> <br /> http://www.thefabricator.com/article/arcwelding/22-possible-causes-of-weld-metal-porosity<br /> and this -<br /> http://www.daihen-usa.com/techtips.php<br /> <br /> The first article says porosity is necessarily a deal breaker unless its really bad or a structural requirement<br /> <br /> I learnt to day that having the angle of the tool right made a big difference at about 15 degrees off perpendicular. paint was also causing major problems, so after an initial tack i went grinding along all the seams, welded again and ground out the old bad tacks. <br /> <br /> I know Marcin didn't want us to use the grinder, but it became a necessity with the paint on the rebar that needed to be removed along the seams. I used to grind out heaps of hot water systems I used to find for scrap copper thought so i felt comfortable doing it and it was perfectly safe, I used the small grinder which I'm used to.<br /> <br /> I learnt that when tacking, if it peels a piece back in the other direction after shrinkage, that its better to tack less, just a tiny dot, so that its more malleable. then you can tack the other side more easily without breaking it and then finish with some more solid tacks.<br /> <br /> <br /> =1st April, 2014=<br /> Relocated lots of stuff in the workshop and did some cleanup. Learnt how to weld with Marcin.<br /> <br /> =31st March, 2014=<br /> Upload in progress for a you tube video showing how to produce diagrams in sketchup using scenes for dozuki.<br /> <br /> Finished the dozuki for the Soil Mixer.<br /> <br /> Found an interesting resource on hardening steel<br /> http://www.roymech.co.uk/Useful_Tables/Matter/Hardening.html<br /> <br /> =29th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> Happy birthday to me!<br /> <br /> This shows 3 channel capacitive sensing with an arduino.<br /> http://playground.arduino.cc/Main/CapacitiveSensor?from=Main.CapSense#.UzeQ0dzgg8M<br /> <br /> one thing i wonder about is interference with other objects and people around the table though. when the sense gets near the edges, this could change. i wonder if its being used for this purpose in the real world now how they deal with this issue - if it is an issue that is.<br /> <br /> if the sensor is closer to the plate, with a lower value resistor being used, then this could limit interference.<br /> <br /> using a ring or toroid will have increased sensitivity in the axis perpendicular to the ring. this is because the delta in the field is greater in this axis. good idea!<br /> http://www.agelkom.com.tr/prod02.htm<br /> <br /> you can vary pwm as cutting height is approached to get finer control and slower z speed.<br /> http://www.agelkom.com.tr/cap04_pwm_function.htm<br /> <br /> note aluminium case for shielding of circuit.<br /> http://www.cnc4pc.com/Store/osc/product_info.php?products_id=339?osCsid=9cb438690de2f645e1a951bef1ba4df8<br /> <br /> looking at the material and justins log, i like the idea of using the adafruit ultrasonic range sensor. I drew an idea for some reflector geometry to let us measure a disc pattern instead of a narrow beam.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Ultrasound_Torch_Height_Controller<br /> <br /> its clear that a capacitive solution will require totally different operation when going to a plasma cutter instead of oxy. infact, the capacitive sensor isn't even used - rather the voltage is measured between the torch and table to control height.<br /> <br /> that means two different technologies to achieve the same thing, because you need the capacitive measurement when the torch is off for the initial height.<br /> <br /> i think ultrasonic may be the way to go because it wont be affected by the two different modes of cutting. it could be cheaper, and simpler to maintain.<br /> <br /> you also need to consider height reduction after the cut commences. you could feed an isolated voltage/current measurment to tell the controlled when to drop the torch head.<br /> <br /> shielded cables are a must- some good stuff here, actually a noise reduction bible-<br /> http://www.cnccookbook.com/CCCNCNoise.html<br /> <br /> also<br /> http://www.randyray.com/tmc/rf_shielding.htm<br /> <br /> =28th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> [https://docs.google.com/drawings/d/1IMUu0otp7BRCflIRYKZ1JqR3lF3VF8OBjkPQXPQbV3A/edit created Parallel workflow diagram.] Google draw sucks though. Doesn't know how to filter images for different sizes.<br /> <br /> [http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Build_Instructions embedded this drawing into the build instructions page]<br /> <br /> Added the hinge mechanism and lid build to the dozuki for the soil mixer.<br /> <br /> =27th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> Created bunk bed design. 2 bracket pathways we need to decide on.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Bunk_Bed<br /> <br /> bunk bed specs<br /> 5'2&quot; top level for matress<br /> 1'2&quot; bottom level for matress<br /> 6'4&quot; max height<br /> <br /> moved copy from http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Fabrication_Drawings to http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Build_Instructions<br /> <br /> Setup build instructions for bucket on dozuki<br /> http://opensourceecology.dozuki.com/Guide/Installing+Soil+Mixer+-+Module+-+Bucket+The+soil+pulverizer+bucket/126?revisionid=HEAD<br /> <br /> brief discussion of using internet lines as one connection.<br /> if your going to be paying for 2 internet connections it would be good to load balance them both from one location and distribute it out from there. this would solve the problem of having large numbers of people, and since you are already paying for the second line it makes sense to do it. currently with just 10 users, 50kbit/s up is not going to cut it.<br /> <br /> running ethernet up to the micro house could be done with a switch no more than every 100 meters to boost the signal. if power is an issue power over ethernet could be used also, mentioned in this thread<br /> http://forums.whirlpool.net.au/archive/1164805<br /> <br /> so onto using two connections as one-<br /> <br /> Load balancing is easier than bonding.<br /> <br /> Bonding will double web speed for a single user with 2 internet connections. however this is unnecessary.<br /> <br /> Load balancing will not give you a maximum of 2x the speed for a single, but it will distribute traffic to each of the connections on demand if done correctly. In the real world this means with large numbers of users the web will perform just as well as in bonding. You need to make sure that with 2 connections going in that the load balancing won't just act as a failsafe - switch over to different internet connection if one fails. you want both connections to be used.<br /> <br /> http://www.increasebroadbandspeed.co.uk/what-is-adsl-load-balancing<br /> <br /> if you have a wrt54gl router this might be a good start to figuring this out.<br /> <br /> to achieve this your going to need to position those 2 adsl modems in the same location, before the load balancing hardware - router.<br /> <br /> The ISP doesn't have to know about it if you want to load balance yourself. I believe it can be done without them<br /> <br /> this guy did it with that router-<br /> http://forum.kitz.co.uk/index.php?topic=12308.msg232604#msg232604<br /> <br /> =26th March, 2014=<br /> * Measured out boards for the side rooms.<br /> * Did file format tests import into houdini.<br /> * Spoke to randy on the phone and cuts are ready for pickup. http://www.seamanschuske.com/Seaman_and_Schuske/Welcome.html<br /> <br /> It will now be possible to create a large chunk of the workflow in sketchup for documentation and build procedure. From a base model we can have in the same file procedural references for everything including<br /> *CAD layout for DXF export to CNC.<br /> *exploded view as animation<br /> *fabrication procedure as animation.<br /> *fabrication procedure frames for print manual and dozuki.<br /> <br /> what this means if the base model needs updates, all these dependencies will update too. problems are the plugin is unstable in 2014. it crashes when setting or getting states, using scenes, and also exporting .mp4 doesn't work.<br /> <br /> plan for sketchup video<br /> show dropbox sharing. show scenes, layers groups. show circles and tricks with CAD. show dxf conversion tricks and laying out in sketchup.<br /> <br /> * good sketchup video on scenes<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qEYmiKh-sqs<br /> * groups and components - make sure you know when to use which, or your file will get slow quickly.<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7V_KbxXVt0I<br /> * layers<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fBdP499iw0Y<br /> *speed enhancements<br /> https://sites.google.com/site/sketchupsage/faster<br /> <br /> *dynamic components - pro only<br /> http://help.sketchup.com/en/article/94885<br /> <br /> *plugins<br /> http://sketchucation.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=10&amp;t=36583&amp;p=322249&amp;hilit=+add+hidden+layer+#p322249<br /> <br /> Thinks like the tunes on the rototiller, or grid beam should be designated in sketchup as dynamic components. building them in other software throws away the procedural abitiy of other software, or adding complexity to do it through other plugins to enable software like freecad or open scad.<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;html&gt;&lt;script type=&quot;text/javascript&quot;<br /> data-dozuki-embed='3'<br /> src=&quot;http://d1luk0418egahw.cloudfront.net/static/embed/ifixit-embed.3.js#id=130&amp;site=opensourceecology.dozuki.com&quot;&gt;<br /> &lt;/script&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://opensourceecology.dozuki.com/Guide/Installing+Soil+Mixer+-+Module+-+Toothbar+Teeth/130&quot;&gt;Installing Soil Mixer - Module - Toothbar Teeth&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/html&gt;<br /> <br /> =25th March, 2014=<br /> *updated fabrication procedure text for marcin to review. updated exploded parts diagram and CAM layout numbering. <br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Fabrication_Drawings<br /> *added washers into sketchup file<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_3D_CAD<br /> <br /> *fixed p29 length in cam files to accomodate washers in the hinges<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_CAM<br /> <br /> *Updated cam files protocol<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/CAM_Files_Protocol#Other_Resources<br /> <br /> Note: A lot of time seems to be lost when design changes are made and dependent files on the sketchup such as the dxf, images on the wiki, and wiki uploads to keep everything current need to take place. potentially a more desirable solution would be to have the ability to synchronize all these changes at once.<br /> <br /> =24th March, 2014=<br /> [http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_CAM Updated DXF to send to seaman schuske - Randy Clinton]<br /> *increased the diameter by 1/16th on all the holes except the quick attach mount, and the 3 ground plates because they are already oversized to .625&quot;<br /> <br /> [http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_3D_CAD Updated 3D CAD Sketchup file for exploded diagram and DXF generation]<br /> <br /> <br /> [http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Exploded_Parts_Diagram Updated exploded parts diagram]<br /> <br /> *Updated fabrication diagram text.<br /> <br /> =21th March, 2014=<br /> *Updated exploded view and part numbering.<br /> [[Image:ExplodedView.jpg|400px]]<br /> <br /> *Updated CAM and CAD. Removed extra lines from CAM. fixed radius on motor holes, removed extra motor holes for bolt.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_3D_CAD<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_CAM<br /> <br /> *Added 2nd coat of lime wash to second last room.<br /> *Anthony added first coat of lime wash to last room.<br /> <br /> =20th March, 2014=<br /> *bearing spec for bolt holes is incorrect - should be .625 - http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/File:Bearing178.jpg<br /> *needed to add 4 extra holes into the sidewall<br /> *tested internet, and its not going to be fast enough for a large group of people. good for a few people, up to 4 maybe.<br /> *[http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Exploded_Parts_Diagram Added exploded parts diagram]<br /> *Rubbed out walls in last 2 east rooms. Moved the big glass sheets into the silo. Prepped whitewash and applied into the second last room.<br /> <br /> =19th March, 2014=<br /> *fixed a wheelbarrow axel by replacing the pin and putting 3 large washers on there. After pumping up the tires it'll be good as new.<br /> *mixxed approx 5 shovels of sand to 4-5 shovels of very clayey soil to plaster the window and door on the outside room. this took a lot longer than anticipated to do the job well. plastering on top of the window and door frame required almost 100% clay just to stick, I'm wondering if it will crack but it was the only way it would stick on there even with the wire mesh.<br /> *used sprayer and a damp cloth to smooth out the walls to prep for limewash<br /> *Added suggested ratio to lime wash and plaster ratio suggestion.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Lime_Plaster_and_Wash#BoM<br /> *[http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasertoc.htm came across a sweet link from anthony to make your own laser - laser sam]<br /> <br /> =18th March, 2014=<br /> Uploaded timelapse videos<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kMBSe5V7M8E<br /> <br /> Updated sketchup file to reposition the holes for the mounts. some inaccuracies were present in the components attaching to the shaft.<br /> <br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_3D_CAD<br /> <br /> sketchup note: when creating circles, you must go to window, entity info, chad change the segments from 24 to 48. most circles look like ploys other wise and this will follow through to the machine file.<br /> <br /> Moved everything from the outer rooms into office and silo. took a while because there was a lot of sorting. some things needed to be inside. <br /> <br /> applied lime wash to a wall in the middle room. tomorrow need to smooth out the rendering with a rag. also staple chicken air and get sand from micro house.<br /> <br /> tommorrow - fix sheets and dimensions. get a quote from Justin Fuston<br /> https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0ArpE5Y9PpJCXdGpUZ3dqYWw3czQzZ09IUHFpRl9VT1E#gid=0<br /> <br /> =17th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> Updated CAD. Chamfered corners, removed excess hinge parts, rotated struts 90 degrees. added gussets, but now they may not be necessary with the struts at 90 degrees. easy to remove. stacking of the hinge components around the hydraulic mechanism has been changed for better strength and ease of construction.<br /> <br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_3D_CAD<br /> <br /> This has been fixed. see video! you just need to clear the prefs.<br /> &lt;strike&gt;I also submitted a complaint to google, sketch up 2014 eliminated features in the free version of 2013 so that you have to pay for them. It's no longer possible to export to 3DS and most other pro formats now.&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> <br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A9TdFNZwLtc&amp;feature=em-upload_owner<br /> <br /> &lt;html&gt;<br /> &lt;iframe width=&quot;560&quot; height=&quot;315&quot; src=&quot;//www.youtube.com/embed/A9TdFNZwLtc&quot; frameborder=&quot;0&quot; allowfullscreen&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;<br /> &lt;/html&gt;<br /> <br /> Microhouse-<br /> - Painted walls with white.<br /> <br /> - Moved weights into the silo.<br /> <br /> - prepped lime in 1 to one in the white container.<br /> <br /> =16th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> Added dhal to recipes-<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Recipes<br /> <br /> Fixed vacuum cleaner.<br /> <br /> Setup DIY mouse trap design to drown rodents.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Mouse_trap<br /> <br /> =15th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> Recipe for Dahl. For 8 people.<br /> Awesome vegetarian power food high in protein.<br /> <br /> 4 onions.<br /> <br /> half a bulb of garlic<br /> <br /> 1.5kg lentils or split peas, soaked for as long as you can during the day, overnight if possible. if not, it will just take longer to cook but it works out fine. rinse them thoroughly!<br /> <br /> Coconut oil<br /> <br /> teaspoon whole cumin seeds<br /> <br /> cumin powder<br /> <br /> garam masala<br /> <br /> salt<br /> <br /> pepper<br /> <br /> chilli or cayenne pepper<br /> <br /> turmeric<br /> <br /> sour cream and cilantro for garnish.<br /> <br /> heat the oil and keep an eye on it so it doesn't smoke.<br /> fry the cumin seeds for a bit then add the onions and garlic on high. when the onions are clear to brown colour add 1/2 teaspoons of the rest of the spices and the lentils. add water to the pot until the lentils are just covered.<br /> keep on high heat until it starts to boil, then simmer until the lentils are soft/falling apart. this usually takes an hour.<br /> add to bowls and garnish with the cilantro and sour cream!<br /> <br /> <br /> -------<br /> <br /> <br /> Added large grain sand and clay mix to top right corner of hablab. when dried we added mist and then lime wash. it may need another layer.<br /> <br /> Painted the outside door frames yellow.<br /> <br /> Modifications added to http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Review<br /> <br /> Current design revisions-<br /> <br /> 1. Long reinforcement on edge of lid - 1/4 x 2. Current reinforcement needs to be rotated 90 degrees.<br /> <br /> 2. Centre the cylinder mount, add an extra strut for symmetry.<br /> <br /> 3. gusset 1/2&quot; x 4&quot; triangle on the rod end mount<br /> <br /> 4. 45 degrees angle on outside hinge to lip mount.<br /> <br /> =14th March, 2014=<br /> tomatoe varieties for OSE - <br /> jetstart<br /> homestead,<br /> bhn 1021<br /> defiant phr<br /> <br /> setting out planting guide for kansas city<br /> http://www.almanac.com/gardening/planting-dates/zipcode/64151<br /> <br /> =13th March, 2014=<br /> Updated cad file and range of motion. Added hinges and correct thicknesses.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_3D_CAD<br /> <br /> [[Image:sketchupModel.png|400px]]<br /> <br /> Collaboration notes: setting up remote collaboration for the design process in solid works can be aided by a synchronized web folder to users local paths. drop box achieves this but has a size limit. we need software that can do that locally to a raid array with offsite backup. Eric Potash suggested aero fs https://www.aerofs.com<br /> We also have http://www.bittorrent.com/sync which looks very promising with redundancy and http://owncloud.org<br /> <br /> Lime wash<br /> <br /> Determined that the 4 parts lime/3 parts water then salt added (salt is 1/5th the lime amount by volume, not weight) is a good mix provided the surface is smooth. On a rough surface this mix is too thick. If the mix is too thick it can crack due to shrinkage after drying.<br /> For a rough surface, this mix instead works - 1 part lime / 1 part water by volume, with salt being the same ratio as before - 1/5th the amount of lime by volume.<br /> It isn't necessary to mix the salt with more water prior to mixing with a drill in both these recipes. this was done on previous days to help mix more evenly, but these mixes are both watery enough to not worry about this.<br /> <br /> Pre misting the area before applying the lime wash prevents cracking significantly. This is done by lightly misting so the soil looks darkened and damp, but not soaking wet which affects the bond negatively. Waiting a while to see it dry a little (~30 seconds) and repeating this 4 or 5 times helps create a deeper bond into to adobe wall when the lime wash is applied.<br /> <br /> Hard synthetic brushes are ok to use only on smoothly rendered stucco, but on mud stucco these can be too abrasive and affect application. softer brushes like the thick ones we use from horse hair apply the mix really smoothly and work really well on both types of surfaces.<br /> <br /> [[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tgDarFYW7hk 4/3 mix failing in divots]]<br /> [[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QrqwRHOAA8s testing with spray]]<br /> <br /> For filling holes with earth plaster, Chris also added that they had success when mixing coarse grain sand with the clayey soil 3/1 and that there was no shrinkage problems when filling holes. they mixed it with their hands. they also sprayed the wall which helped.<br /> <br /> 3D Printer that Coulton fixed!<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MH_0sHNAd9w<br /> <br /> =12th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> *3D range of motion test for hydraulic cylinder.<br /> *http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Opening_Mechanism_Module_-_Calculations<br /> *http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/File:RangeOfMotion.png<br /> *http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Opening_Mechanism_Module_-_Bill_of_Materials<br /> *Hablab whitewash testing - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BiA1LRERXjU&amp;list=UU0Jra6oMPLejbnPr4bzxdpg<br /> <br /> Determined that thick 2 to 1 lime/water ratio is too thick and cracks in some areas. Prepping with misting the adobe layer before limewashing definitely reduces cracking.<br /> We are also testing two recipes for tomorrow. One that is 4/3 Lime/water. The other that is 1/1. We will test both of these to see which works better.<br /> <br /> <br /> =11th March, 2014=<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KjADHmrkFy4<br /> <br /> Tested different whitewash formula. it appeared that thick lime wash was less tolerant of some areas of the wall and was peeling back at some points after some time had passed. We applied a thin whitewash with the consistency of cream or milk at the end to different parts of the wall to see if we could avoid the peeling problem.<br /> <br /> Drew the clamshell mechanism and hinge in sketch up for the Soil Mixer.<br /> <br /> Screenshot<br /> [[Image:WIPsoild_mixer_and_lid.png|200px]]<br /> <br /> <br /> Sketchup in progress<br /> [[File:SoilPulverizerV1s001.skp]]<br /> <br /> =10th March, 2014=<br /> Timelapse of wall painting-<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o4bef_KFQts<br /> <br /> Helped sketch designs for soil mixer.<br /> <br /> Painted wall with Lauren and Cat. (timelapse video in progress)<br /> <br /> Cooked thai style fried rice for dinner.<br /> <br /> Commenced ideation for procedural animation of the GVCS in Houdini for documentation.<br /> <br /> =9th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> [[Soil Mixer Requirements]].<br /> <br /> Append design Rationale -<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_Construction_Set_Requirements<br /> <br /> Laid hay over the ground to stop mud being moved along the path.</div>

Andrew Graham https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Andrew_Graham_Log&diff=118783 2014-04-19T19:04:43Z

<p>Andrew Graham: </p> <hr /> <div>=Ideas to implement=<br /> * Create a sketchup for OSE video to show how to draw with the right accuracy, increase circle segments, use hiding, snapping etc, arcs to measure etc. also how to post the final result using the dozuki cad template<br /> * it may be possible to layout 3D objects from sketchup in free cad to be flat. it could be done dynamically using python script. this would give a proper procedural workflow for dimensioning. doing it manually isn't feasible because adjustments to sketchup files are asking for trouble. When it comes to the cam process you have to do it all over again to ensure you aren't maintaining any old incorrect parts.<br /> http://www.freecadweb.org/wiki/index.php?title=Python_scripting_tutorial<br /> * Build a workflow in Houdini to dynamically build a dxf with dimensioning and instructions for fabrication<br /> * Build a procedural animation tool to follow a spreadsheet for construction order. The result from houdini would be an open GL animation of the build of the model.<br /> * Improve wiki usability with suggested extension by Kunda<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/User_talk:Andrew_Graham<br /> <br /> =To do list=<br /> * look at stucco sprayer<br /> * get dish detergent<br /> * empty ash container.<br /> * hot water flow threshold to turn on is too high. kitchen tap needs to be turned on full for it to work.<br /> * rodent problem -thorough clean of kitchen and seal food away.<br /> * Make a sign to make sure people don't burn treated pine in the fire.<br /> <br /> timezones seem incorrect?<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/File:Soil_Pulverizer.skp<br /> <br /> =19th April, 2014=<br /> [http://www.xnview.com/en/xnconvert/#downloads xnview] is a must have for all dozuki users<br /> [File:Batch_resize_for_dozuki.xbs]<br /> <br /> It will resize an entire folder of images and can give a black border to put it in the right ratio for dozuki. It also helps when lots of users are trying to upload at once.<br /> <br /> =11th April, 2014=<br /> jar soil test<br /> http://www.ext.colostate.edu/mg/gardennotes/214.html<br /> <br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Bunk_Bed<br /> updated bunk bed sketchup and bom<br /> <br /> <br /> =10th April, 2014=<br /> We finished most of the bucket, all that needs to be done is weld the quick attach plates on the sides after the tractor loads it up.<br /> <br /> We lost a lot of time due to the shaft not being flat all the way across. its important to append this into the instrucitons. we should also note that tynes need to be drilled and then ground out flat, probably best to do it prior to welding the flats on.<br /> also brushing the shaft for a very easy fit for the bearings before fitting anything is an important thing to note for the build.<br /> <br /> we discussed making abox for the gopro hero3.<br /> <br /> the box that comes with it would be fine to just drill a hole in and use the usb cord to extend into a powergorilla or powermonkey. there are a lot of cheaper duplicates around but these are designed to be more ruggedised and have good multi voltage outputs.<br /> this one maybe overkill, but i find it has saved my bacon a number of times. if i forget to charge it its ok, I can run my gopro for maybe 3 days at least before charging again.<br /> https://www.powertraveller.com/en/shop/portable-chargers/professional/powergorilla/<br /> <br /> also the mini or the powermonkey extreme 12v would be adequate for all day timelapse<br /> https://www.powertraveller.com/en/shop/portable-chargers/professional/<br /> <br /> there is also a 3d printed box we could makle from here<br /> https://www.youmagine.com/designs/gopro-hero-3-box<br /> <br /> =9th April, 2014=<br /> need to adjust the build process for tynes. without a flat face, even working with gravity spatter on the nut is a big problem. a more robust process is to drill a hole, then use a grinder/cutter to flatten the area. this means there is no gap where the welds takes place on the nut and using this method they stayed more free<br /> <br /> =8th April, 2014=<br /> Had a very productive build day yesterday on the soil mixer. Things of note were-<br /> Putting the lid on was a bit of a challenge. We had to oxy cut the lid down a little more. we also realised that using clamp on the bottom to rest the lid on was usefull. it was to help get the lid in position with all the other welds for the hinges that need to take place.<br /> I made a mistake by welding the Hinge struts for the cylinder as part of the outside hinges on the lid. the parts look very similar, just a little shorter. it would help if we cut a bit of a different shape in the cad for easy identification. also to make sure everything is numbered.<br /> Putting on the hinges was easier than I thought. You can actually just use clamps or bolt and nuts for each part, keeping them at the 90 degree angle as in the design. Then position them in place getting everything square and tac away. This is all synced up in Trovebox and will be added to the documentation.<br /> <br /> <br /> =5th April, 2014=<br /> one guy got a bond with PLA on his 3d printer directly onto copper at 130C. that means if it works, and im sure it could, we could buy copper sheets directly at the weight price, and print the plastic layer on the back. print the layer on the other side as a resist layer and etch away. this has some potential.<br /> http://hydraraptor.blogspot.com/2010/04/cu-pla.html<br /> <br /> Here is a concept for a self aligning QA Lip<br /> <br /> [[Image:Self Aligning QA Mount.jpg|600px]]<br /> <br /> this can be improved by inverting the wedge and having it internally.<br /> <br /> =4th April, 2014=<br /> Fixed the construction order of the bucket on the dozuki and updated the tines production process to reflect what is happening now.<br /> <br /> Had lots of problems with the wire feeder on the welder today when trying to finish the QA Lip. but we got a lot more done towards the end of the day getting most of the bucket and lip tacked in place. almost ready to start putting on the lid once those welds are finished.<br /> <br /> <br /> =2nd April, 2014=<br /> <br /> today I cut up the larger pieces of stock on the iron worker. but we had a bit of a blocker and that was 2 big pieces that need to be cut with a torch. so we couldn't continue on the main bucket apart form the side walls, but we were busy all day anyway cutting up all the other necessary parts from stock, tubing, and tacking half the teeth.<br /> <br /> I thought this was a good read<br /> <br /> http://www.thefabricator.com/article/arcwelding/22-possible-causes-of-weld-metal-porosity<br /> and this -<br /> http://www.daihen-usa.com/techtips.php<br /> <br /> The first article says porosity is necessarily a deal breaker unless its really bad or a structural requirement<br /> <br /> I learnt to day that having the angle of the tool right made a big difference at about 15 degrees off perpendicular. paint was also causing major problems, so after an initial tack i went grinding along all the seams, welded again and ground out the old bad tacks. <br /> <br /> I know Marcin didn't want us to use the grinder, but it became a necessity with the paint on the rebar that needed to be removed along the seams. I used to grind out heaps of hot water systems I used to find for scrap copper thought so i felt comfortable doing it and it was perfectly safe, I used the small grinder which I'm used to.<br /> <br /> I learnt that when tacking, if it peels a piece back in the other direction after shrinkage, that its better to tack less, just a tiny dot, so that its more malleable. then you can tack the other side more easily without breaking it and then finish with some more solid tacks.<br /> <br /> <br /> =1st April, 2014=<br /> Relocated lots of stuff in the workshop and did some cleanup. Learnt how to weld with Marcin.<br /> <br /> =31st March, 2014=<br /> Upload in progress for a you tube video showing how to produce diagrams in sketchup using scenes for dozuki.<br /> <br /> Finished the dozuki for the Soil Mixer.<br /> <br /> Found an interesting resource on hardening steel<br /> http://www.roymech.co.uk/Useful_Tables/Matter/Hardening.html<br /> <br /> =29th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> Happy birthday to me!<br /> <br /> This shows 3 channel capacitive sensing with an arduino.<br /> http://playground.arduino.cc/Main/CapacitiveSensor?from=Main.CapSense#.UzeQ0dzgg8M<br /> <br /> one thing i wonder about is interference with other objects and people around the table though. when the sense gets near the edges, this could change. i wonder if its being used for this purpose in the real world now how they deal with this issue - if it is an issue that is.<br /> <br /> if the sensor is closer to the plate, with a lower value resistor being used, then this could limit interference.<br /> <br /> using a ring or toroid will have increased sensitivity in the axis perpendicular to the ring. this is because the delta in the field is greater in this axis. good idea!<br /> http://www.agelkom.com.tr/prod02.htm<br /> <br /> you can vary pwm as cutting height is approached to get finer control and slower z speed.<br /> http://www.agelkom.com.tr/cap04_pwm_function.htm<br /> <br /> note aluminium case for shielding of circuit.<br /> http://www.cnc4pc.com/Store/osc/product_info.php?products_id=339?osCsid=9cb438690de2f645e1a951bef1ba4df8<br /> <br /> looking at the material and justins log, i like the idea of using the adafruit ultrasonic range sensor. I drew an idea for some reflector geometry to let us measure a disc pattern instead of a narrow beam.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Ultrasound_Torch_Height_Controller<br /> <br /> its clear that a capacitive solution will require totally different operation when going to a plasma cutter instead of oxy. infact, the capacitive sensor isn't even used - rather the voltage is measured between the torch and table to control height.<br /> <br /> that means two different technologies to achieve the same thing, because you need the capacitive measurement when the torch is off for the initial height.<br /> <br /> i think ultrasonic may be the way to go because it wont be affected by the two different modes of cutting. it could be cheaper, and simpler to maintain.<br /> <br /> you also need to consider height reduction after the cut commences. you could feed an isolated voltage/current measurment to tell the controlled when to drop the torch head.<br /> <br /> shielded cables are a must- some good stuff here, actually a noise reduction bible-<br /> http://www.cnccookbook.com/CCCNCNoise.html<br /> <br /> also<br /> http://www.randyray.com/tmc/rf_shielding.htm<br /> <br /> =28th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> [https://docs.google.com/drawings/d/1IMUu0otp7BRCflIRYKZ1JqR3lF3VF8OBjkPQXPQbV3A/edit created Parallel workflow diagram.] Google draw sucks though. Doesn't know how to filter images for different sizes.<br /> <br /> [http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Build_Instructions embedded this drawing into the build instructions page]<br /> <br /> Added the hinge mechanism and lid build to the dozuki for the soil mixer.<br /> <br /> =27th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> Created bunk bed design. 2 bracket pathways we need to decide on.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Bunk_Bed<br /> <br /> bunk bed specs<br /> 5'2&quot; top level for matress<br /> 1'2&quot; bottom level for matress<br /> 6'4&quot; max height<br /> <br /> moved copy from http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Fabrication_Drawings to http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Build_Instructions<br /> <br /> Setup build instructions for bucket on dozuki<br /> http://opensourceecology.dozuki.com/Guide/Installing+Soil+Mixer+-+Module+-+Bucket+The+soil+pulverizer+bucket/126?revisionid=HEAD<br /> <br /> brief discussion of using internet lines as one connection.<br /> if your going to be paying for 2 internet connections it would be good to load balance them both from one location and distribute it out from there. this would solve the problem of having large numbers of people, and since you are already paying for the second line it makes sense to do it. currently with just 10 users, 50kbit/s up is not going to cut it.<br /> <br /> running ethernet up to the micro house could be done with a switch no more than every 100 meters to boost the signal. if power is an issue power over ethernet could be used also, mentioned in this thread<br /> http://forums.whirlpool.net.au/archive/1164805<br /> <br /> so onto using two connections as one-<br /> <br /> Load balancing is easier than bonding.<br /> <br /> Bonding will double web speed for a single user with 2 internet connections. however this is unnecessary.<br /> <br /> Load balancing will not give you a maximum of 2x the speed for a single, but it will distribute traffic to each of the connections on demand if done correctly. In the real world this means with large numbers of users the web will perform just as well as in bonding. You need to make sure that with 2 connections going in that the load balancing won't just act as a failsafe - switch over to different internet connection if one fails. you want both connections to be used.<br /> <br /> http://www.increasebroadbandspeed.co.uk/what-is-adsl-load-balancing<br /> <br /> if you have a wrt54gl router this might be a good start to figuring this out.<br /> <br /> to achieve this your going to need to position those 2 adsl modems in the same location, before the load balancing hardware - router.<br /> <br /> The ISP doesn't have to know about it if you want to load balance yourself. I believe it can be done without them<br /> <br /> this guy did it with that router-<br /> http://forum.kitz.co.uk/index.php?topic=12308.msg232604#msg232604<br /> <br /> =26th March, 2014=<br /> * Measured out boards for the side rooms.<br /> * Did file format tests import into houdini.<br /> * Spoke to randy on the phone and cuts are ready for pickup. http://www.seamanschuske.com/Seaman_and_Schuske/Welcome.html<br /> <br /> It will now be possible to create a large chunk of the workflow in sketchup for documentation and build procedure. From a base model we can have in the same file procedural references for everything including<br /> *CAD layout for DXF export to CNC.<br /> *exploded view as animation<br /> *fabrication procedure as animation.<br /> *fabrication procedure frames for print manual and dozuki.<br /> <br /> what this means if the base model needs updates, all these dependencies will update too. problems are the plugin is unstable in 2014. it crashes when setting or getting states, using scenes, and also exporting .mp4 doesn't work.<br /> <br /> plan for sketchup video<br /> show dropbox sharing. show scenes, layers groups. show circles and tricks with CAD. show dxf conversion tricks and laying out in sketchup.<br /> <br /> * good sketchup video on scenes<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qEYmiKh-sqs<br /> * groups and components - make sure you know when to use which, or your file will get slow quickly.<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7V_KbxXVt0I<br /> * layers<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fBdP499iw0Y<br /> *speed enhancements<br /> https://sites.google.com/site/sketchupsage/faster<br /> <br /> *dynamic components - pro only<br /> http://help.sketchup.com/en/article/94885<br /> <br /> *plugins<br /> http://sketchucation.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=10&amp;t=36583&amp;p=322249&amp;hilit=+add+hidden+layer+#p322249<br /> <br /> Thinks like the tunes on the rototiller, or grid beam should be designated in sketchup as dynamic components. building them in other software throws away the procedural abitiy of other software, or adding complexity to do it through other plugins to enable software like freecad or open scad.<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;html&gt;&lt;script type=&quot;text/javascript&quot;<br /> data-dozuki-embed='3'<br /> src=&quot;http://d1luk0418egahw.cloudfront.net/static/embed/ifixit-embed.3.js#id=130&amp;site=opensourceecology.dozuki.com&quot;&gt;<br /> &lt;/script&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://opensourceecology.dozuki.com/Guide/Installing+Soil+Mixer+-+Module+-+Toothbar+Teeth/130&quot;&gt;Installing Soil Mixer - Module - Toothbar Teeth&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/html&gt;<br /> <br /> =25th March, 2014=<br /> *updated fabrication procedure text for marcin to review. updated exploded parts diagram and CAM layout numbering. <br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Fabrication_Drawings<br /> *added washers into sketchup file<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_3D_CAD<br /> <br /> *fixed p29 length in cam files to accomodate washers in the hinges<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_CAM<br /> <br /> *Updated cam files protocol<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/CAM_Files_Protocol#Other_Resources<br /> <br /> Note: A lot of time seems to be lost when design changes are made and dependent files on the sketchup such as the dxf, images on the wiki, and wiki uploads to keep everything current need to take place. potentially a more desirable solution would be to have the ability to synchronize all these changes at once.<br /> <br /> =24th March, 2014=<br /> [http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_CAM Updated DXF to send to seaman schuske - Randy Clinton]<br /> *increased the diameter by 1/16th on all the holes except the quick attach mount, and the 3 ground plates because they are already oversized to .625&quot;<br /> <br /> [http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_3D_CAD Updated 3D CAD Sketchup file for exploded diagram and DXF generation]<br /> <br /> <br /> [http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Exploded_Parts_Diagram Updated exploded parts diagram]<br /> <br /> *Updated fabrication diagram text.<br /> <br /> =21th March, 2014=<br /> *Updated exploded view and part numbering.<br /> [[Image:ExplodedView.jpg|400px]]<br /> <br /> *Updated CAM and CAD. Removed extra lines from CAM. fixed radius on motor holes, removed extra motor holes for bolt.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_3D_CAD<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_CAM<br /> <br /> *Added 2nd coat of lime wash to second last room.<br /> *Anthony added first coat of lime wash to last room.<br /> <br /> =20th March, 2014=<br /> *bearing spec for bolt holes is incorrect - should be .625 - http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/File:Bearing178.jpg<br /> *needed to add 4 extra holes into the sidewall<br /> *tested internet, and its not going to be fast enough for a large group of people. good for a few people, up to 4 maybe.<br /> *[http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Exploded_Parts_Diagram Added exploded parts diagram]<br /> *Rubbed out walls in last 2 east rooms. Moved the big glass sheets into the silo. Prepped whitewash and applied into the second last room.<br /> <br /> =19th March, 2014=<br /> *fixed a wheelbarrow axel by replacing the pin and putting 3 large washers on there. After pumping up the tires it'll be good as new.<br /> *mixxed approx 5 shovels of sand to 4-5 shovels of very clayey soil to plaster the window and door on the outside room. this took a lot longer than anticipated to do the job well. plastering on top of the window and door frame required almost 100% clay just to stick, I'm wondering if it will crack but it was the only way it would stick on there even with the wire mesh.<br /> *used sprayer and a damp cloth to smooth out the walls to prep for limewash<br /> *Added suggested ratio to lime wash and plaster ratio suggestion.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Lime_Plaster_and_Wash#BoM<br /> *[http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasertoc.htm came across a sweet link from anthony to make your own laser - laser sam]<br /> <br /> =18th March, 2014=<br /> Uploaded timelapse videos<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kMBSe5V7M8E<br /> <br /> Updated sketchup file to reposition the holes for the mounts. some inaccuracies were present in the components attaching to the shaft.<br /> <br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_3D_CAD<br /> <br /> sketchup note: when creating circles, you must go to window, entity info, chad change the segments from 24 to 48. most circles look like ploys other wise and this will follow through to the machine file.<br /> <br /> Moved everything from the outer rooms into office and silo. took a while because there was a lot of sorting. some things needed to be inside. <br /> <br /> applied lime wash to a wall in the middle room. tomorrow need to smooth out the rendering with a rag. also staple chicken air and get sand from micro house.<br /> <br /> tommorrow - fix sheets and dimensions. get a quote from Justin Fuston<br /> https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0ArpE5Y9PpJCXdGpUZ3dqYWw3czQzZ09IUHFpRl9VT1E#gid=0<br /> <br /> =17th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> Updated CAD. Chamfered corners, removed excess hinge parts, rotated struts 90 degrees. added gussets, but now they may not be necessary with the struts at 90 degrees. easy to remove. stacking of the hinge components around the hydraulic mechanism has been changed for better strength and ease of construction.<br /> <br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_3D_CAD<br /> <br /> This has been fixed. see video! you just need to clear the prefs.<br /> &lt;strike&gt;I also submitted a complaint to google, sketch up 2014 eliminated features in the free version of 2013 so that you have to pay for them. It's no longer possible to export to 3DS and most other pro formats now.&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> <br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A9TdFNZwLtc&amp;feature=em-upload_owner<br /> <br /> &lt;html&gt;<br /> &lt;iframe width=&quot;560&quot; height=&quot;315&quot; src=&quot;//www.youtube.com/embed/A9TdFNZwLtc&quot; frameborder=&quot;0&quot; allowfullscreen&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;<br /> &lt;/html&gt;<br /> <br /> Microhouse-<br /> - Painted walls with white.<br /> <br /> - Moved weights into the silo.<br /> <br /> - prepped lime in 1 to one in the white container.<br /> <br /> =16th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> Added dhal to recipes-<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Recipes<br /> <br /> Fixed vacuum cleaner.<br /> <br /> Setup DIY mouse trap design to drown rodents.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Mouse_trap<br /> <br /> =15th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> Recipe for Dahl. For 8 people.<br /> Awesome vegetarian power food high in protein.<br /> <br /> 4 onions.<br /> <br /> half a bulb of garlic<br /> <br /> 1.5kg lentils or split peas, soaked for as long as you can during the day, overnight if possible. if not, it will just take longer to cook but it works out fine. rinse them thoroughly!<br /> <br /> Coconut oil<br /> <br /> teaspoon whole cumin seeds<br /> <br /> cumin powder<br /> <br /> garam masala<br /> <br /> salt<br /> <br /> pepper<br /> <br /> chilli or cayenne pepper<br /> <br /> turmeric<br /> <br /> sour cream and cilantro for garnish.<br /> <br /> heat the oil and keep an eye on it so it doesn't smoke.<br /> fry the cumin seeds for a bit then add the onions and garlic on high. when the onions are clear to brown colour add 1/2 teaspoons of the rest of the spices and the lentils. add water to the pot until the lentils are just covered.<br /> keep on high heat until it starts to boil, then simmer until the lentils are soft/falling apart. this usually takes an hour.<br /> add to bowls and garnish with the cilantro and sour cream!<br /> <br /> <br /> -------<br /> <br /> <br /> Added large grain sand and clay mix to top right corner of hablab. when dried we added mist and then lime wash. it may need another layer.<br /> <br /> Painted the outside door frames yellow.<br /> <br /> Modifications added to http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Review<br /> <br /> Current design revisions-<br /> <br /> 1. Long reinforcement on edge of lid - 1/4 x 2. Current reinforcement needs to be rotated 90 degrees.<br /> <br /> 2. Centre the cylinder mount, add an extra strut for symmetry.<br /> <br /> 3. gusset 1/2&quot; x 4&quot; triangle on the rod end mount<br /> <br /> 4. 45 degrees angle on outside hinge to lip mount.<br /> <br /> =14th March, 2014=<br /> tomatoe varieties for OSE - <br /> jetstart<br /> homestead,<br /> bhn 1021<br /> defiant phr<br /> <br /> setting out planting guide for kansas city<br /> http://www.almanac.com/gardening/planting-dates/zipcode/64151<br /> <br /> =13th March, 2014=<br /> Updated cad file and range of motion. Added hinges and correct thicknesses.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_3D_CAD<br /> <br /> [[Image:sketchupModel.png|400px]]<br /> <br /> Collaboration notes: setting up remote collaboration for the design process in solid works can be aided by a synchronized web folder to users local paths. drop box achieves this but has a size limit. we need software that can do that locally to a raid array with offsite backup. Eric Potash suggested aero fs https://www.aerofs.com<br /> We also have http://www.bittorrent.com/sync which looks very promising with redundancy and http://owncloud.org<br /> <br /> Lime wash<br /> <br /> Determined that the 4 parts lime/3 parts water then salt added (salt is 1/5th the lime amount by volume, not weight) is a good mix provided the surface is smooth. On a rough surface this mix is too thick. If the mix is too thick it can crack due to shrinkage after drying.<br /> For a rough surface, this mix instead works - 1 part lime / 1 part water by volume, with salt being the same ratio as before - 1/5th the amount of lime by volume.<br /> It isn't necessary to mix the salt with more water prior to mixing with a drill in both these recipes. this was done on previous days to help mix more evenly, but these mixes are both watery enough to not worry about this.<br /> <br /> Pre misting the area before applying the lime wash prevents cracking significantly. This is done by lightly misting so the soil looks darkened and damp, but not soaking wet which affects the bond negatively. Waiting a while to see it dry a little (~30 seconds) and repeating this 4 or 5 times helps create a deeper bond into to adobe wall when the lime wash is applied.<br /> <br /> Hard synthetic brushes are ok to use only on smoothly rendered stucco, but on mud stucco these can be too abrasive and affect application. softer brushes like the thick ones we use from horse hair apply the mix really smoothly and work really well on both types of surfaces.<br /> <br /> [[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tgDarFYW7hk 4/3 mix failing in divots]]<br /> [[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QrqwRHOAA8s testing with spray]]<br /> <br /> For filling holes with earth plaster, Chris also added that they had success when mixing coarse grain sand with the clayey soil 3/1 and that there was no shrinkage problems when filling holes. they mixed it with their hands. they also sprayed the wall which helped.<br /> <br /> 3D Printer that Coulton fixed!<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MH_0sHNAd9w<br /> <br /> =12th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> *3D range of motion test for hydraulic cylinder.<br /> *http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Opening_Mechanism_Module_-_Calculations<br /> *http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/File:RangeOfMotion.png<br /> *http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Opening_Mechanism_Module_-_Bill_of_Materials<br /> *Hablab whitewash testing - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BiA1LRERXjU&amp;list=UU0Jra6oMPLejbnPr4bzxdpg<br /> <br /> Determined that thick 2 to 1 lime/water ratio is too thick and cracks in some areas. Prepping with misting the adobe layer before limewashing definitely reduces cracking.<br /> We are also testing two recipes for tomorrow. One that is 4/3 Lime/water. The other that is 1/1. We will test both of these to see which works better.<br /> <br /> <br /> =11th March, 2014=<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KjADHmrkFy4<br /> <br /> Tested different whitewash formula. it appeared that thick lime wash was less tolerant of some areas of the wall and was peeling back at some points after some time had passed. We applied a thin whitewash with the consistency of cream or milk at the end to different parts of the wall to see if we could avoid the peeling problem.<br /> <br /> Drew the clamshell mechanism and hinge in sketch up for the Soil Mixer.<br /> <br /> Screenshot<br /> [[Image:WIPsoild_mixer_and_lid.png|200px]]<br /> <br /> <br /> Sketchup in progress<br /> [[File:SoilPulverizerV1s001.skp]]<br /> <br /> =10th March, 2014=<br /> Timelapse of wall painting-<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o4bef_KFQts<br /> <br /> Helped sketch designs for soil mixer.<br /> <br /> Painted wall with Lauren and Cat. (timelapse video in progress)<br /> <br /> Cooked thai style fried rice for dinner.<br /> <br /> Commenced ideation for procedural animation of the GVCS in Houdini for documentation.<br /> <br /> =9th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> [[Soil Mixer Requirements]].<br /> <br /> Append design Rationale -<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_Construction_Set_Requirements<br /> <br /> Laid hay over the ground to stop mud being moved along the path.</div>

Andrew Graham https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=File:Batch_resize_for_dozuki.xbs&diff=118782 2014-04-19T18:59:48Z

<p>Andrew Graham: this is a template for xnconvert</p> <hr /> <div>this is a template for xnconvert</div>

Andrew Graham https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Microhouse_2_-_Soil_Testing&diff=118461 2014-04-12T16:59:26Z

<p>Andrew Graham: </p> <hr /> <div>This was the guide we used for the soil test - http://www.ext.colostate.edu/mg/gardennotes/214.html<br /> <br /> There are two piles of soil to use, one is yellow and very clayey, the other is dark and more sandy and silty. the objective is to produce a stabilised earth brick <br /> <br /> I'm quite sure that yellow pile is almost all clay and according to gernot minke's book, more than 30% clay for CEB's is no good. using cement for stabilising soil at the higher end of this clayey spectrum is not ideal either because it is incompatible with the clay - to much fine particle matter/glue with nothing to glue onto (but the different types of clay affect how true this statement is). you need to balance it out with more grainy sand to get a better matrix happenning. clay and cement are like the glue, the brick shouldn't be all glue but use the glue to bond ideally an event distribution of different sized particles. the higher clay content CEB's need other crazy ingredients instead of cement for stabilising like horse pee and ox blood, or lime.<br /> <br /> If the intent is to get the most ideal concrete stabilised block at the maximum end of concrete in the mix @ 10%, then i would recomend from memory (will dive in deeper) that there be around 15% clay in the mix, using very sandy soil or sand to balance out the rest. Using less than 4% concrete in any ceb from stress tests appears to be a no no, so getting it right is pretty important here.<br /> <br /> The dark soil pile being tested could be ideal. Although i don't know its history (how deep it was dug from the original top layer where it had its biology in there), if it was taken from underneath all the biological layer (usually about a foot deep and under is what you want). So far it looks like its going to come out at least 30% sandy 30% silt, perhaps more, but a good healthy distribution of the larger grains. depending on how much clay settles we can mix a small amount of that yellow pile in there to get a likely very good mix in terms of granularity and then add our cement. only thing about the dark soil is it may have a bit of biological content, I have no idea. it has no smell to me which is good. if there is biological content then it can create mold later, but i think for now this is going to be our best bet unless theres something I'm missing.<br /> <br /> Thinking about this mixing of proportions now, we need to mark a meter out on the bucket when in its tilted position to gauge our volumes. We can fill it with water and add our markings every 50-100 liters of water added or so to do this, Marcin should I add this to the tasks? We need the tractor to do it and to weld the tabs on the mixer too.<br /> <br /> I'm reading more about what our ideal proportions can be tonight. I shared the gernot mink book with everyone, the thing is deep but a must read anyone that wants to build with soil. the information in it can also be applied to rammed earth.<br /> <br /> <br /> = Updating on building with Earth - Gernot Minke =<br /> <br /> <br /> I will add this to the wiki but heres an update-<br /> <br /> From the book - getting more coarse grain sand can also achieve a better weather resistance in higher clay content soils.<br /> more coarse grain sand improves compressive strength too.<br /> <br /> It says cement blocks must cure for at least 7 days. if not protected against direct sun and wind they must be sprayed with water while curing. sodium hydroxide can be added to the water to hasten and enhance curing. Maybe we should get mixing on monday and put them in the hab lab?<br /> <br /> If opting for lime as a stabiliser instead of cement in the high clay case, the bricks must be tested to find the optimum amount (this makes it a bit more inconvenient in my opinion)<br /> <br /> We also should do clay ball tests with the soil mixer to determine optimum mixing time to get maximum strength<br /> <br /> An interesting statement is that often adobes and kneaded loam can result in higher strength than compression see attached p44.<br /> but the difference is less with higher sand or clay content loams. So it make sense that optimum soil for the CEB is to have more sand in it and enough clay such that it doesn't impact the 10% cement - cement negatively affects clay's bonding ability to a degree.<br /> <br /> Also interesting is it says compressing under static force does not achieve as higher strength as beating while vibrating<br /> &quot;Here it can be seen that the compressive strength of a sandy loam under constant pressure for ten seconds and vibrating at 3,000 cycles per minute is enhanced by 14%. For each technique of preparation, there is an optimum water content that can be determined only by testing &quot;<br /> <br /> Maybe something to consider for the next version of the CEB press. <br /> <br /> Also intersting is on p45, optimum water content at which maximum density is achieved ad its relationship to compressive strength. &quot;if there is lesser compaction and higher water, then the same compressive strength may be achieved by using higher compaction and less water&quot; p45<br /> So there can be higher tolerance for having less water under compression. How much this transfers to a cement stabilised block though im not sure, probably to some degree.<br /> <br /> Perhaps at the point at which we get the highest density brick adding water and making bricks with different amounts of water, we could take a step a little back on the water from that maximum density we got - since we are compressing. how much though I'm not sure. also to factor in is the cement and the fact that we may not be curing them? with more cement, then optimum water content is probably a logical thing to aim for, but no curing again could be a deal breaker. I really hope we try to aim for as much curing time as we can.<br /> <br /> &quot;When adding cement to loam, the mixture should be used immediately, since the setting of cement starts at once. If the mix is allowed to stand for several hours before being pressed into soil blocks, the compressive strength of these blocks may be reduced by as much as 50%. However, if lime is added, this time lag has no negative influence on the final strength. If less than 5% cement is added, the drying process affects the compressive strength&quot; <br /> <br /> -so we add cement just before we press, stands to reason.<br /> <br /> I think it would be a worthy experiment for the future to make 5 bricks for each test - with enough sand content, 10% cement, and do variations on clay from 5% - 50%.<br /> <br /> Test 3 brick on compressive strength, the rest on erosion (but I believe they all will pass with 10% cement on the erosion test)<br /> <br /> Kaolinite clay can improve compressive strength by 50%, Montmorilinite clay by 100% in some tests. how to know which one we have though? in another test with 17% clay, bentonite showed 2.4x improvment over kaolinite. all are good, but kaolinite is not as good as the others in this regard to compressive strength. we know that a 30% clay brick needs much more cement to get goot bonding, so I think if we go back to something like 15% clay that would be sound value - No empirical data yet on the optimum brick yet with 10% cement as an axiom from my reading.<br /> <br /> &quot;The addition of lime and cement, usually intended to increase the weather resistance of loam, also generally increases compressive strength. As described here, however, compressive strength may also be decreased by these additives, especially in amounts lower than 5%. This is because lime and cement interfere with the binding force of clay minerals. The greater the clay content, the higher must be the amount of lime or cement added.&quot; p45 <br /> <br /> So it stands to reason that high clay content soil means you will need much more cement to get it to work optimally, and less than 5% cement or lime is generally a bad idea.<br /> &quot;Tests have shown that as a rule, lime offers better stabilisation with rich clayey loams, while cement gives better results with leaner loams. Furthermore, cement is more effective with Kaolinite and lime with Mont- morillonite. In practice, it is always recommended that relevant tests be conducted. When doing so, the following points are to be kept in mind:<br /> 1. When loam is stabilised with cement or lime, some pores should remain. Only the points of contact of the larger particles should be cemented together, but fewer pores should be filled than with concrete.<br /> 2. When the cement hydrates, free lime is formed. This reacts with the silicate acids of the clay minerals so that in addition to the early stabilisation caused by cement, a longer lasting hardening also occurs. Unlike cement concrete, therefore, the strength of cement-stabilised loam increases a little even after 28 days.<br /> 3. When adding hydraulic lime, an ion exchange between the clay minerals and the added calcium ions takes place, lasting between four and eight hours. The addi- tional hardening process caused by the reaction of the hydrated lime with the car- bon dioxide from the air occurs very slowly.&quot; <br /> <br /> So without any test data to say, this is the way to do it, based on what I'm reading I'm recommending mixing to achieve these proportions<br /> Current optimum mix -<br /> <br /> 10% cement (we can lock this one down, because while adding more cement can improve weathering performance, most graphs show a great benefit already at 8%, and if need too much cement it kind of defeats the purpose of making CEB's in the first place)<br /> 15% clay, (potentially less but unknown how much)- generally, if theres more clay you need more lime or cement to stabilise so we want to avoid this for reasons above. Clay bonding forces are destroyed by clay and lime. generally stabilising high clayey soil is better with lime instead, but i doubt lime is as great with water erosion than cement is.<br /> 40% sand<br /> 35% silt<br /> These last two can be split, but balance on the side of more sand if possible since it plays nice with clay and improves stabilisation/erosion resistance even without cement. it also reduces shrinkage.</div>

Andrew Graham https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Microhouse_2_-_Soil_Testing&diff=118453 2014-04-12T02:14:18Z

<p>Andrew Graham: Created page with &quot;There are two piles of soil to use, one is yellow and very clayey, the other is dark and more sandy and silty. the objective is to produce a stabilised earth brick I&#039;m quit...&quot;</p> <hr /> <div>There are two piles of soil to use, one is yellow and very clayey, the other is dark and more sandy and silty. the objective is to produce a stabilised earth brick <br /> <br /> I'm quite sure that yellow pile is almost all clay and according to gernot minke's book, more than 30% clay for CEB's is no good. using cement for stabilising soil at the higher end of this clayey spectrum is not ideal either because it is incompatible with the clay - to much fine particle matter/glue with nothing to glue onto (but the different types of clay affect how true this statement is). you need to balance it out with more grainy sand to get a better matrix happenning. clay and cement are like the glue, the brick shouldn't be all glue but use the glue to bond ideally an event distribution of different sized particles. the higher clay content CEB's need other crazy ingredients instead of cement for stabilising like horse pee and ox blood, or lime.<br /> <br /> If the intent is to get the most ideal concrete stabilised block at the maximum end of concrete in the mix @ 10%, then i would recomend from memory (will dive in deeper) that there be around 15% clay in the mix, using very sandy soil or sand to balance out the rest. Using less than 4% concrete in any ceb from stress tests appears to be a no no, so getting it right is pretty important here.<br /> <br /> The dark soil pile being tested could be ideal. Although i don't know its history (how deep it was dug from the original top layer where it had its biology in there), if it was taken from underneath all the biological layer (usually about a foot deep and under is what you want). So far it looks like its going to come out at least 30% sandy 30% silt, perhaps more, but a good healthy distribution of the larger grains. depending on how much clay settles we can mix a small amount of that yellow pile in there to get a likely very good mix in terms of granularity and then add our cement. only thing about the dark soil is it may have a bit of biological content, I have no idea. it has no smell to me which is good. if there is biological content then it can create mold later, but i think for now this is going to be our best bet unless theres something I'm missing.<br /> <br /> Thinking about this mixing of proportions now, we need to mark a meter out on the bucket when in its tilted position to gauge our volumes. We can fill it with water and add our markings every 50-100 liters of water added or so to do this, Marcin should I add this to the tasks? We need the tractor to do it and to weld the tabs on the mixer too.<br /> <br /> I'm reading more about what our ideal proportions can be tonight. I shared the gernot mink book with everyone, the thing is deep but a must read anyone that wants to build with soil. the information in it can also be applied to rammed earth.</div>

Andrew Graham https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Bunk_Bed&diff=118452 2014-04-11T19:48:00Z

<p>Andrew Graham: </p> <hr /> <div>Source corner braces from Menards<br /> http://www.menards.com/main/tools-hardware/household-hardware/utility-hardware/corner-braces/3-1-2-corner-brace/p-2155800-c-9700.htm<br /> <br /> this is another alternative<br /> http://www.mymobilecommunications.com/index.php?route=product/product&amp;product_id=67<br /> <br /> or we can make them ourselves from plates as shown in the animation...<br /> but this design needs countersunk holes to sit flat so maybe it isn't appropriate.<br /> <br /> Sketchup:<br /> [[File:Bunk_Bed.skp]]<br /> <br /> BOM:<br /> https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AiftBIpw4OLAdHlhenV4QlhVU0JLMWpCTGltUDl1TXc&amp;usp=drive_web#gid=0<br /> <br /> &lt;html&gt;&lt;iframe width=&quot;560&quot; height=&quot;315&quot; src=&quot;//www.youtube.com/embed/VyzkXCj19Us&quot; frameborder=&quot;0&quot; allowfullscreen&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&lt;/html&gt;</div>

Andrew Graham https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Andrew_Graham_Log&diff=118451 2014-04-11T19:47:34Z

<p>Andrew Graham: </p> <hr /> <div>=Ideas to implement=<br /> * Create a sketchup for OSE video to show how to draw with the right accuracy, increase circle segments, use hiding, snapping etc, arcs to measure etc. also how to post the final result using the dozuki cad template<br /> * it may be possible to layout 3D objects from sketchup in free cad to be flat. it could be done dynamically using python script. this would give a proper procedural workflow for dimensioning. doing it manually isn't feasible because adjustments to sketchup files are asking for trouble. When it comes to the cam process you have to do it all over again to ensure you aren't maintaining any old incorrect parts.<br /> http://www.freecadweb.org/wiki/index.php?title=Python_scripting_tutorial<br /> * Build a workflow in Houdini to dynamically build a dxf with dimensioning and instructions for fabrication<br /> * Build a procedural animation tool to follow a spreadsheet for construction order. The result from houdini would be an open GL animation of the build of the model.<br /> * Improve wiki usability with suggested extension by Kunda<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/User_talk:Andrew_Graham<br /> <br /> =To do list=<br /> * look at stucco sprayer<br /> * get dish detergent<br /> * empty ash container.<br /> * hot water flow threshold to turn on is too high. kitchen tap needs to be turned on full for it to work.<br /> * rodent problem -thorough clean of kitchen and seal food away.<br /> * Make a sign to make sure people don't burn treated pine in the fire.<br /> <br /> timezones seem incorrect?<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/File:Soil_Pulverizer.skp<br /> <br /> =11th April, 2014=<br /> jar soil test<br /> http://www.ext.colostate.edu/mg/gardennotes/214.html<br /> <br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Bunk_Bed<br /> updated bunk bed sketchup and bom<br /> <br /> <br /> =10th April, 2014=<br /> We finished most of the bucket, all that needs to be done is weld the quick attach plates on the sides after the tractor loads it up.<br /> <br /> We lost a lot of time due to the shaft not being flat all the way across. its important to append this into the instrucitons. we should also note that tynes need to be drilled and then ground out flat, probably best to do it prior to welding the flats on.<br /> also brushing the shaft for a very easy fit for the bearings before fitting anything is an important thing to note for the build.<br /> <br /> we discussed making abox for the gopro hero3.<br /> <br /> the box that comes with it would be fine to just drill a hole in and use the usb cord to extend into a powergorilla or powermonkey. there are a lot of cheaper duplicates around but these are designed to be more ruggedised and have good multi voltage outputs.<br /> this one maybe overkill, but i find it has saved my bacon a number of times. if i forget to charge it its ok, I can run my gopro for maybe 3 days at least before charging again.<br /> https://www.powertraveller.com/en/shop/portable-chargers/professional/powergorilla/<br /> <br /> also the mini or the powermonkey extreme 12v would be adequate for all day timelapse<br /> https://www.powertraveller.com/en/shop/portable-chargers/professional/<br /> <br /> there is also a 3d printed box we could makle from here<br /> https://www.youmagine.com/designs/gopro-hero-3-box<br /> <br /> =9th April, 2014=<br /> need to adjust the build process for tynes. without a flat face, even working with gravity spatter on the nut is a big problem. a more robust process is to drill a hole, then use a grinder/cutter to flatten the area. this means there is no gap where the welds takes place on the nut and using this method they stayed more free<br /> <br /> =8th April, 2014=<br /> Had a very productive build day yesterday on the soil mixer. Things of note were-<br /> Putting the lid on was a bit of a challenge. We had to oxy cut the lid down a little more. we also realised that using clamp on the bottom to rest the lid on was usefull. it was to help get the lid in position with all the other welds for the hinges that need to take place.<br /> I made a mistake by welding the Hinge struts for the cylinder as part of the outside hinges on the lid. the parts look very similar, just a little shorter. it would help if we cut a bit of a different shape in the cad for easy identification. also to make sure everything is numbered.<br /> Putting on the hinges was easier than I thought. You can actually just use clamps or bolt and nuts for each part, keeping them at the 90 degree angle as in the design. Then position them in place getting everything square and tac away. This is all synced up in Trovebox and will be added to the documentation.<br /> <br /> <br /> =5th April, 2014=<br /> one guy got a bond with PLA on his 3d printer directly onto copper at 130C. that means if it works, and im sure it could, we could buy copper sheets directly at the weight price, and print the plastic layer on the back. print the layer on the other side as a resist layer and etch away. this has some potential.<br /> http://hydraraptor.blogspot.com/2010/04/cu-pla.html<br /> <br /> Here is a concept for a self aligning QA Lip<br /> <br /> [[Image:Self Aligning QA Mount.jpg|600px]]<br /> <br /> this can be improved by inverting the wedge and having it internally.<br /> <br /> =4th April, 2014=<br /> Fixed the construction order of the bucket on the dozuki and updated the tines production process to reflect what is happening now.<br /> <br /> Had lots of problems with the wire feeder on the welder today when trying to finish the QA Lip. but we got a lot more done towards the end of the day getting most of the bucket and lip tacked in place. almost ready to start putting on the lid once those welds are finished.<br /> <br /> <br /> =2nd April, 2014=<br /> <br /> today I cut up the larger pieces of stock on the iron worker. but we had a bit of a blocker and that was 2 big pieces that need to be cut with a torch. so we couldn't continue on the main bucket apart form the side walls, but we were busy all day anyway cutting up all the other necessary parts from stock, tubing, and tacking half the teeth.<br /> <br /> I thought this was a good read<br /> <br /> http://www.thefabricator.com/article/arcwelding/22-possible-causes-of-weld-metal-porosity<br /> and this -<br /> http://www.daihen-usa.com/techtips.php<br /> <br /> The first article says porosity is necessarily a deal breaker unless its really bad or a structural requirement<br /> <br /> I learnt to day that having the angle of the tool right made a big difference at about 15 degrees off perpendicular. paint was also causing major problems, so after an initial tack i went grinding along all the seams, welded again and ground out the old bad tacks. <br /> <br /> I know Marcin didn't want us to use the grinder, but it became a necessity with the paint on the rebar that needed to be removed along the seams. I used to grind out heaps of hot water systems I used to find for scrap copper thought so i felt comfortable doing it and it was perfectly safe, I used the small grinder which I'm used to.<br /> <br /> I learnt that when tacking, if it peels a piece back in the other direction after shrinkage, that its better to tack less, just a tiny dot, so that its more malleable. then you can tack the other side more easily without breaking it and then finish with some more solid tacks.<br /> <br /> <br /> =1st April, 2014=<br /> Relocated lots of stuff in the workshop and did some cleanup. Learnt how to weld with Marcin.<br /> <br /> =31st March, 2014=<br /> Upload in progress for a you tube video showing how to produce diagrams in sketchup using scenes for dozuki.<br /> <br /> Finished the dozuki for the Soil Mixer.<br /> <br /> Found an interesting resource on hardening steel<br /> http://www.roymech.co.uk/Useful_Tables/Matter/Hardening.html<br /> <br /> =29th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> Happy birthday to me!<br /> <br /> This shows 3 channel capacitive sensing with an arduino.<br /> http://playground.arduino.cc/Main/CapacitiveSensor?from=Main.CapSense#.UzeQ0dzgg8M<br /> <br /> one thing i wonder about is interference with other objects and people around the table though. when the sense gets near the edges, this could change. i wonder if its being used for this purpose in the real world now how they deal with this issue - if it is an issue that is.<br /> <br /> if the sensor is closer to the plate, with a lower value resistor being used, then this could limit interference.<br /> <br /> using a ring or toroid will have increased sensitivity in the axis perpendicular to the ring. this is because the delta in the field is greater in this axis. good idea!<br /> http://www.agelkom.com.tr/prod02.htm<br /> <br /> you can vary pwm as cutting height is approached to get finer control and slower z speed.<br /> http://www.agelkom.com.tr/cap04_pwm_function.htm<br /> <br /> note aluminium case for shielding of circuit.<br /> http://www.cnc4pc.com/Store/osc/product_info.php?products_id=339?osCsid=9cb438690de2f645e1a951bef1ba4df8<br /> <br /> looking at the material and justins log, i like the idea of using the adafruit ultrasonic range sensor. I drew an idea for some reflector geometry to let us measure a disc pattern instead of a narrow beam.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Ultrasound_Torch_Height_Controller<br /> <br /> its clear that a capacitive solution will require totally different operation when going to a plasma cutter instead of oxy. infact, the capacitive sensor isn't even used - rather the voltage is measured between the torch and table to control height.<br /> <br /> that means two different technologies to achieve the same thing, because you need the capacitive measurement when the torch is off for the initial height.<br /> <br /> i think ultrasonic may be the way to go because it wont be affected by the two different modes of cutting. it could be cheaper, and simpler to maintain.<br /> <br /> you also need to consider height reduction after the cut commences. you could feed an isolated voltage/current measurment to tell the controlled when to drop the torch head.<br /> <br /> shielded cables are a must- some good stuff here, actually a noise reduction bible-<br /> http://www.cnccookbook.com/CCCNCNoise.html<br /> <br /> also<br /> http://www.randyray.com/tmc/rf_shielding.htm<br /> <br /> =28th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> [https://docs.google.com/drawings/d/1IMUu0otp7BRCflIRYKZ1JqR3lF3VF8OBjkPQXPQbV3A/edit created Parallel workflow diagram.] Google draw sucks though. Doesn't know how to filter images for different sizes.<br /> <br /> [http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Build_Instructions embedded this drawing into the build instructions page]<br /> <br /> Added the hinge mechanism and lid build to the dozuki for the soil mixer.<br /> <br /> =27th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> Created bunk bed design. 2 bracket pathways we need to decide on.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Bunk_Bed<br /> <br /> bunk bed specs<br /> 5'2&quot; top level for matress<br /> 1'2&quot; bottom level for matress<br /> 6'4&quot; max height<br /> <br /> moved copy from http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Fabrication_Drawings to http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Build_Instructions<br /> <br /> Setup build instructions for bucket on dozuki<br /> http://opensourceecology.dozuki.com/Guide/Installing+Soil+Mixer+-+Module+-+Bucket+The+soil+pulverizer+bucket/126?revisionid=HEAD<br /> <br /> brief discussion of using internet lines as one connection.<br /> if your going to be paying for 2 internet connections it would be good to load balance them both from one location and distribute it out from there. this would solve the problem of having large numbers of people, and since you are already paying for the second line it makes sense to do it. currently with just 10 users, 50kbit/s up is not going to cut it.<br /> <br /> running ethernet up to the micro house could be done with a switch no more than every 100 meters to boost the signal. if power is an issue power over ethernet could be used also, mentioned in this thread<br /> http://forums.whirlpool.net.au/archive/1164805<br /> <br /> so onto using two connections as one-<br /> <br /> Load balancing is easier than bonding.<br /> <br /> Bonding will double web speed for a single user with 2 internet connections. however this is unnecessary.<br /> <br /> Load balancing will not give you a maximum of 2x the speed for a single, but it will distribute traffic to each of the connections on demand if done correctly. In the real world this means with large numbers of users the web will perform just as well as in bonding. You need to make sure that with 2 connections going in that the load balancing won't just act as a failsafe - switch over to different internet connection if one fails. you want both connections to be used.<br /> <br /> http://www.increasebroadbandspeed.co.uk/what-is-adsl-load-balancing<br /> <br /> if you have a wrt54gl router this might be a good start to figuring this out.<br /> <br /> to achieve this your going to need to position those 2 adsl modems in the same location, before the load balancing hardware - router.<br /> <br /> The ISP doesn't have to know about it if you want to load balance yourself. I believe it can be done without them<br /> <br /> this guy did it with that router-<br /> http://forum.kitz.co.uk/index.php?topic=12308.msg232604#msg232604<br /> <br /> =26th March, 2014=<br /> * Measured out boards for the side rooms.<br /> * Did file format tests import into houdini.<br /> * Spoke to randy on the phone and cuts are ready for pickup. http://www.seamanschuske.com/Seaman_and_Schuske/Welcome.html<br /> <br /> It will now be possible to create a large chunk of the workflow in sketchup for documentation and build procedure. From a base model we can have in the same file procedural references for everything including<br /> *CAD layout for DXF export to CNC.<br /> *exploded view as animation<br /> *fabrication procedure as animation.<br /> *fabrication procedure frames for print manual and dozuki.<br /> <br /> what this means if the base model needs updates, all these dependencies will update too. problems are the plugin is unstable in 2014. it crashes when setting or getting states, using scenes, and also exporting .mp4 doesn't work.<br /> <br /> plan for sketchup video<br /> show dropbox sharing. show scenes, layers groups. show circles and tricks with CAD. show dxf conversion tricks and laying out in sketchup.<br /> <br /> * good sketchup video on scenes<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qEYmiKh-sqs<br /> * groups and components - make sure you know when to use which, or your file will get slow quickly.<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7V_KbxXVt0I<br /> * layers<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fBdP499iw0Y<br /> *speed enhancements<br /> https://sites.google.com/site/sketchupsage/faster<br /> <br /> *dynamic components - pro only<br /> http://help.sketchup.com/en/article/94885<br /> <br /> *plugins<br /> http://sketchucation.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=10&amp;t=36583&amp;p=322249&amp;hilit=+add+hidden+layer+#p322249<br /> <br /> Thinks like the tunes on the rototiller, or grid beam should be designated in sketchup as dynamic components. building them in other software throws away the procedural abitiy of other software, or adding complexity to do it through other plugins to enable software like freecad or open scad.<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;html&gt;&lt;script type=&quot;text/javascript&quot;<br /> data-dozuki-embed='3'<br /> src=&quot;http://d1luk0418egahw.cloudfront.net/static/embed/ifixit-embed.3.js#id=130&amp;site=opensourceecology.dozuki.com&quot;&gt;<br /> &lt;/script&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://opensourceecology.dozuki.com/Guide/Installing+Soil+Mixer+-+Module+-+Toothbar+Teeth/130&quot;&gt;Installing Soil Mixer - Module - Toothbar Teeth&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/html&gt;<br /> <br /> =25th March, 2014=<br /> *updated fabrication procedure text for marcin to review. updated exploded parts diagram and CAM layout numbering. <br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Fabrication_Drawings<br /> *added washers into sketchup file<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_3D_CAD<br /> <br /> *fixed p29 length in cam files to accomodate washers in the hinges<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_CAM<br /> <br /> *Updated cam files protocol<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/CAM_Files_Protocol#Other_Resources<br /> <br /> Note: A lot of time seems to be lost when design changes are made and dependent files on the sketchup such as the dxf, images on the wiki, and wiki uploads to keep everything current need to take place. potentially a more desirable solution would be to have the ability to synchronize all these changes at once.<br /> <br /> =24th March, 2014=<br /> [http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_CAM Updated DXF to send to seaman schuske - Randy Clinton]<br /> *increased the diameter by 1/16th on all the holes except the quick attach mount, and the 3 ground plates because they are already oversized to .625&quot;<br /> <br /> [http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_3D_CAD Updated 3D CAD Sketchup file for exploded diagram and DXF generation]<br /> <br /> <br /> [http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Exploded_Parts_Diagram Updated exploded parts diagram]<br /> <br /> *Updated fabrication diagram text.<br /> <br /> =21th March, 2014=<br /> *Updated exploded view and part numbering.<br /> [[Image:ExplodedView.jpg|400px]]<br /> <br /> *Updated CAM and CAD. Removed extra lines from CAM. fixed radius on motor holes, removed extra motor holes for bolt.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_3D_CAD<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_CAM<br /> <br /> *Added 2nd coat of lime wash to second last room.<br /> *Anthony added first coat of lime wash to last room.<br /> <br /> =20th March, 2014=<br /> *bearing spec for bolt holes is incorrect - should be .625 - http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/File:Bearing178.jpg<br /> *needed to add 4 extra holes into the sidewall<br /> *tested internet, and its not going to be fast enough for a large group of people. good for a few people, up to 4 maybe.<br /> *[http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Exploded_Parts_Diagram Added exploded parts diagram]<br /> *Rubbed out walls in last 2 east rooms. Moved the big glass sheets into the silo. Prepped whitewash and applied into the second last room.<br /> <br /> =19th March, 2014=<br /> *fixed a wheelbarrow axel by replacing the pin and putting 3 large washers on there. After pumping up the tires it'll be good as new.<br /> *mixxed approx 5 shovels of sand to 4-5 shovels of very clayey soil to plaster the window and door on the outside room. this took a lot longer than anticipated to do the job well. plastering on top of the window and door frame required almost 100% clay just to stick, I'm wondering if it will crack but it was the only way it would stick on there even with the wire mesh.<br /> *used sprayer and a damp cloth to smooth out the walls to prep for limewash<br /> *Added suggested ratio to lime wash and plaster ratio suggestion.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Lime_Plaster_and_Wash#BoM<br /> *[http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasertoc.htm came across a sweet link from anthony to make your own laser - laser sam]<br /> <br /> =18th March, 2014=<br /> Uploaded timelapse videos<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kMBSe5V7M8E<br /> <br /> Updated sketchup file to reposition the holes for the mounts. some inaccuracies were present in the components attaching to the shaft.<br /> <br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_3D_CAD<br /> <br /> sketchup note: when creating circles, you must go to window, entity info, chad change the segments from 24 to 48. most circles look like ploys other wise and this will follow through to the machine file.<br /> <br /> Moved everything from the outer rooms into office and silo. took a while because there was a lot of sorting. some things needed to be inside. <br /> <br /> applied lime wash to a wall in the middle room. tomorrow need to smooth out the rendering with a rag. also staple chicken air and get sand from micro house.<br /> <br /> tommorrow - fix sheets and dimensions. get a quote from Justin Fuston<br /> https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0ArpE5Y9PpJCXdGpUZ3dqYWw3czQzZ09IUHFpRl9VT1E#gid=0<br /> <br /> =17th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> Updated CAD. Chamfered corners, removed excess hinge parts, rotated struts 90 degrees. added gussets, but now they may not be necessary with the struts at 90 degrees. easy to remove. stacking of the hinge components around the hydraulic mechanism has been changed for better strength and ease of construction.<br /> <br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_3D_CAD<br /> <br /> This has been fixed. see video! you just need to clear the prefs.<br /> &lt;strike&gt;I also submitted a complaint to google, sketch up 2014 eliminated features in the free version of 2013 so that you have to pay for them. It's no longer possible to export to 3DS and most other pro formats now.&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> <br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A9TdFNZwLtc&amp;feature=em-upload_owner<br /> <br /> &lt;html&gt;<br /> &lt;iframe width=&quot;560&quot; height=&quot;315&quot; src=&quot;//www.youtube.com/embed/A9TdFNZwLtc&quot; frameborder=&quot;0&quot; allowfullscreen&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;<br /> &lt;/html&gt;<br /> <br /> Microhouse-<br /> - Painted walls with white.<br /> <br /> - Moved weights into the silo.<br /> <br /> - prepped lime in 1 to one in the white container.<br /> <br /> =16th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> Added dhal to recipes-<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Recipes<br /> <br /> Fixed vacuum cleaner.<br /> <br /> Setup DIY mouse trap design to drown rodents.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Mouse_trap<br /> <br /> =15th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> Recipe for Dahl. For 8 people.<br /> Awesome vegetarian power food high in protein.<br /> <br /> 4 onions.<br /> <br /> half a bulb of garlic<br /> <br /> 1.5kg lentils or split peas, soaked for as long as you can during the day, overnight if possible. if not, it will just take longer to cook but it works out fine. rinse them thoroughly!<br /> <br /> Coconut oil<br /> <br /> teaspoon whole cumin seeds<br /> <br /> cumin powder<br /> <br /> garam masala<br /> <br /> salt<br /> <br /> pepper<br /> <br /> chilli or cayenne pepper<br /> <br /> turmeric<br /> <br /> sour cream and cilantro for garnish.<br /> <br /> heat the oil and keep an eye on it so it doesn't smoke.<br /> fry the cumin seeds for a bit then add the onions and garlic on high. when the onions are clear to brown colour add 1/2 teaspoons of the rest of the spices and the lentils. add water to the pot until the lentils are just covered.<br /> keep on high heat until it starts to boil, then simmer until the lentils are soft/falling apart. this usually takes an hour.<br /> add to bowls and garnish with the cilantro and sour cream!<br /> <br /> <br /> -------<br /> <br /> <br /> Added large grain sand and clay mix to top right corner of hablab. when dried we added mist and then lime wash. it may need another layer.<br /> <br /> Painted the outside door frames yellow.<br /> <br /> Modifications added to http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Review<br /> <br /> Current design revisions-<br /> <br /> 1. Long reinforcement on edge of lid - 1/4 x 2. Current reinforcement needs to be rotated 90 degrees.<br /> <br /> 2. Centre the cylinder mount, add an extra strut for symmetry.<br /> <br /> 3. gusset 1/2&quot; x 4&quot; triangle on the rod end mount<br /> <br /> 4. 45 degrees angle on outside hinge to lip mount.<br /> <br /> =14th March, 2014=<br /> tomatoe varieties for OSE - <br /> jetstart<br /> homestead,<br /> bhn 1021<br /> defiant phr<br /> <br /> setting out planting guide for kansas city<br /> http://www.almanac.com/gardening/planting-dates/zipcode/64151<br /> <br /> =13th March, 2014=<br /> Updated cad file and range of motion. Added hinges and correct thicknesses.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_3D_CAD<br /> <br /> [[Image:sketchupModel.png|400px]]<br /> <br /> Collaboration notes: setting up remote collaboration for the design process in solid works can be aided by a synchronized web folder to users local paths. drop box achieves this but has a size limit. we need software that can do that locally to a raid array with offsite backup. Eric Potash suggested aero fs https://www.aerofs.com<br /> We also have http://www.bittorrent.com/sync which looks very promising with redundancy and http://owncloud.org<br /> <br /> Lime wash<br /> <br /> Determined that the 4 parts lime/3 parts water then salt added (salt is 1/5th the lime amount by volume, not weight) is a good mix provided the surface is smooth. On a rough surface this mix is too thick. If the mix is too thick it can crack due to shrinkage after drying.<br /> For a rough surface, this mix instead works - 1 part lime / 1 part water by volume, with salt being the same ratio as before - 1/5th the amount of lime by volume.<br /> It isn't necessary to mix the salt with more water prior to mixing with a drill in both these recipes. this was done on previous days to help mix more evenly, but these mixes are both watery enough to not worry about this.<br /> <br /> Pre misting the area before applying the lime wash prevents cracking significantly. This is done by lightly misting so the soil looks darkened and damp, but not soaking wet which affects the bond negatively. Waiting a while to see it dry a little (~30 seconds) and repeating this 4 or 5 times helps create a deeper bond into to adobe wall when the lime wash is applied.<br /> <br /> Hard synthetic brushes are ok to use only on smoothly rendered stucco, but on mud stucco these can be too abrasive and affect application. softer brushes like the thick ones we use from horse hair apply the mix really smoothly and work really well on both types of surfaces.<br /> <br /> [[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tgDarFYW7hk 4/3 mix failing in divots]]<br /> [[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QrqwRHOAA8s testing with spray]]<br /> <br /> For filling holes with earth plaster, Chris also added that they had success when mixing coarse grain sand with the clayey soil 3/1 and that there was no shrinkage problems when filling holes. they mixed it with their hands. they also sprayed the wall which helped.<br /> <br /> 3D Printer that Coulton fixed!<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MH_0sHNAd9w<br /> <br /> =12th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> *3D range of motion test for hydraulic cylinder.<br /> *http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Opening_Mechanism_Module_-_Calculations<br /> *http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/File:RangeOfMotion.png<br /> *http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Opening_Mechanism_Module_-_Bill_of_Materials<br /> *Hablab whitewash testing - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BiA1LRERXjU&amp;list=UU0Jra6oMPLejbnPr4bzxdpg<br /> <br /> Determined that thick 2 to 1 lime/water ratio is too thick and cracks in some areas. Prepping with misting the adobe layer before limewashing definitely reduces cracking.<br /> We are also testing two recipes for tomorrow. One that is 4/3 Lime/water. The other that is 1/1. We will test both of these to see which works better.<br /> <br /> <br /> =11th March, 2014=<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KjADHmrkFy4<br /> <br /> Tested different whitewash formula. it appeared that thick lime wash was less tolerant of some areas of the wall and was peeling back at some points after some time had passed. We applied a thin whitewash with the consistency of cream or milk at the end to different parts of the wall to see if we could avoid the peeling problem.<br /> <br /> Drew the clamshell mechanism and hinge in sketch up for the Soil Mixer.<br /> <br /> Screenshot<br /> [[Image:WIPsoild_mixer_and_lid.png|200px]]<br /> <br /> <br /> Sketchup in progress<br /> [[File:SoilPulverizerV1s001.skp]]<br /> <br /> =10th March, 2014=<br /> Timelapse of wall painting-<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o4bef_KFQts<br /> <br /> Helped sketch designs for soil mixer.<br /> <br /> Painted wall with Lauren and Cat. (timelapse video in progress)<br /> <br /> Cooked thai style fried rice for dinner.<br /> <br /> Commenced ideation for procedural animation of the GVCS in Houdini for documentation.<br /> <br /> =9th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> [[Soil Mixer Requirements]].<br /> <br /> Append design Rationale -<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_Construction_Set_Requirements<br /> <br /> Laid hay over the ground to stop mud being moved along the path.</div>

Andrew Graham https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=File:Bunk_Bed.skp&diff=118450 2014-04-11T19:47:16Z

<p>Andrew Graham: Andrew Graham uploaded a new version of &amp;quot;File:Bunk Bed.skp&amp;quot;</p> <hr /> <div></div>

Andrew Graham https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Andrew_Graham_Log&diff=118449 2014-04-11T17:20:06Z

<p>Andrew Graham: </p> <hr /> <div>=Ideas to implement=<br /> * Create a sketchup for OSE video to show how to draw with the right accuracy, increase circle segments, use hiding, snapping etc, arcs to measure etc. also how to post the final result using the dozuki cad template<br /> * it may be possible to layout 3D objects from sketchup in free cad to be flat. it could be done dynamically using python script. this would give a proper procedural workflow for dimensioning. doing it manually isn't feasible because adjustments to sketchup files are asking for trouble. When it comes to the cam process you have to do it all over again to ensure you aren't maintaining any old incorrect parts.<br /> http://www.freecadweb.org/wiki/index.php?title=Python_scripting_tutorial<br /> * Build a workflow in Houdini to dynamically build a dxf with dimensioning and instructions for fabrication<br /> * Build a procedural animation tool to follow a spreadsheet for construction order. The result from houdini would be an open GL animation of the build of the model.<br /> * Improve wiki usability with suggested extension by Kunda<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/User_talk:Andrew_Graham<br /> <br /> =To do list=<br /> * look at stucco sprayer<br /> * get dish detergent<br /> * empty ash container.<br /> * hot water flow threshold to turn on is too high. kitchen tap needs to be turned on full for it to work.<br /> * rodent problem -thorough clean of kitchen and seal food away.<br /> * Make a sign to make sure people don't burn treated pine in the fire.<br /> <br /> timezones seem incorrect?<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/File:Soil_Pulverizer.skp<br /> <br /> =11th April, 2014=<br /> jar soil test<br /> http://www.ext.colostate.edu/mg/gardennotes/214.html<br /> <br /> =10th April, 2014=<br /> We finished most of the bucket, all that needs to be done is weld the quick attach plates on the sides after the tractor loads it up.<br /> <br /> We lost a lot of time due to the shaft not being flat all the way across. its important to append this into the instrucitons. we should also note that tynes need to be drilled and then ground out flat, probably best to do it prior to welding the flats on.<br /> also brushing the shaft for a very easy fit for the bearings before fitting anything is an important thing to note for the build.<br /> <br /> we discussed making abox for the gopro hero3.<br /> <br /> the box that comes with it would be fine to just drill a hole in and use the usb cord to extend into a powergorilla or powermonkey. there are a lot of cheaper duplicates around but these are designed to be more ruggedised and have good multi voltage outputs.<br /> this one maybe overkill, but i find it has saved my bacon a number of times. if i forget to charge it its ok, I can run my gopro for maybe 3 days at least before charging again.<br /> https://www.powertraveller.com/en/shop/portable-chargers/professional/powergorilla/<br /> <br /> also the mini or the powermonkey extreme 12v would be adequate for all day timelapse<br /> https://www.powertraveller.com/en/shop/portable-chargers/professional/<br /> <br /> there is also a 3d printed box we could makle from here<br /> https://www.youmagine.com/designs/gopro-hero-3-box<br /> <br /> =9th April, 2014=<br /> need to adjust the build process for tynes. without a flat face, even working with gravity spatter on the nut is a big problem. a more robust process is to drill a hole, then use a grinder/cutter to flatten the area. this means there is no gap where the welds takes place on the nut and using this method they stayed more free<br /> <br /> =8th April, 2014=<br /> Had a very productive build day yesterday on the soil mixer. Things of note were-<br /> Putting the lid on was a bit of a challenge. We had to oxy cut the lid down a little more. we also realised that using clamp on the bottom to rest the lid on was usefull. it was to help get the lid in position with all the other welds for the hinges that need to take place.<br /> I made a mistake by welding the Hinge struts for the cylinder as part of the outside hinges on the lid. the parts look very similar, just a little shorter. it would help if we cut a bit of a different shape in the cad for easy identification. also to make sure everything is numbered.<br /> Putting on the hinges was easier than I thought. You can actually just use clamps or bolt and nuts for each part, keeping them at the 90 degree angle as in the design. Then position them in place getting everything square and tac away. This is all synced up in Trovebox and will be added to the documentation.<br /> <br /> <br /> =5th April, 2014=<br /> one guy got a bond with PLA on his 3d printer directly onto copper at 130C. that means if it works, and im sure it could, we could buy copper sheets directly at the weight price, and print the plastic layer on the back. print the layer on the other side as a resist layer and etch away. this has some potential.<br /> http://hydraraptor.blogspot.com/2010/04/cu-pla.html<br /> <br /> Here is a concept for a self aligning QA Lip<br /> <br /> [[Image:Self Aligning QA Mount.jpg|600px]]<br /> <br /> this can be improved by inverting the wedge and having it internally.<br /> <br /> =4th April, 2014=<br /> Fixed the construction order of the bucket on the dozuki and updated the tines production process to reflect what is happening now.<br /> <br /> Had lots of problems with the wire feeder on the welder today when trying to finish the QA Lip. but we got a lot more done towards the end of the day getting most of the bucket and lip tacked in place. almost ready to start putting on the lid once those welds are finished.<br /> <br /> <br /> =2nd April, 2014=<br /> <br /> today I cut up the larger pieces of stock on the iron worker. but we had a bit of a blocker and that was 2 big pieces that need to be cut with a torch. so we couldn't continue on the main bucket apart form the side walls, but we were busy all day anyway cutting up all the other necessary parts from stock, tubing, and tacking half the teeth.<br /> <br /> I thought this was a good read<br /> <br /> http://www.thefabricator.com/article/arcwelding/22-possible-causes-of-weld-metal-porosity<br /> and this -<br /> http://www.daihen-usa.com/techtips.php<br /> <br /> The first article says porosity is necessarily a deal breaker unless its really bad or a structural requirement<br /> <br /> I learnt to day that having the angle of the tool right made a big difference at about 15 degrees off perpendicular. paint was also causing major problems, so after an initial tack i went grinding along all the seams, welded again and ground out the old bad tacks. <br /> <br /> I know Marcin didn't want us to use the grinder, but it became a necessity with the paint on the rebar that needed to be removed along the seams. I used to grind out heaps of hot water systems I used to find for scrap copper thought so i felt comfortable doing it and it was perfectly safe, I used the small grinder which I'm used to.<br /> <br /> I learnt that when tacking, if it peels a piece back in the other direction after shrinkage, that its better to tack less, just a tiny dot, so that its more malleable. then you can tack the other side more easily without breaking it and then finish with some more solid tacks.<br /> <br /> <br /> =1st April, 2014=<br /> Relocated lots of stuff in the workshop and did some cleanup. Learnt how to weld with Marcin.<br /> <br /> =31st March, 2014=<br /> Upload in progress for a you tube video showing how to produce diagrams in sketchup using scenes for dozuki.<br /> <br /> Finished the dozuki for the Soil Mixer.<br /> <br /> Found an interesting resource on hardening steel<br /> http://www.roymech.co.uk/Useful_Tables/Matter/Hardening.html<br /> <br /> =29th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> Happy birthday to me!<br /> <br /> This shows 3 channel capacitive sensing with an arduino.<br /> http://playground.arduino.cc/Main/CapacitiveSensor?from=Main.CapSense#.UzeQ0dzgg8M<br /> <br /> one thing i wonder about is interference with other objects and people around the table though. when the sense gets near the edges, this could change. i wonder if its being used for this purpose in the real world now how they deal with this issue - if it is an issue that is.<br /> <br /> if the sensor is closer to the plate, with a lower value resistor being used, then this could limit interference.<br /> <br /> using a ring or toroid will have increased sensitivity in the axis perpendicular to the ring. this is because the delta in the field is greater in this axis. good idea!<br /> http://www.agelkom.com.tr/prod02.htm<br /> <br /> you can vary pwm as cutting height is approached to get finer control and slower z speed.<br /> http://www.agelkom.com.tr/cap04_pwm_function.htm<br /> <br /> note aluminium case for shielding of circuit.<br /> http://www.cnc4pc.com/Store/osc/product_info.php?products_id=339?osCsid=9cb438690de2f645e1a951bef1ba4df8<br /> <br /> looking at the material and justins log, i like the idea of using the adafruit ultrasonic range sensor. I drew an idea for some reflector geometry to let us measure a disc pattern instead of a narrow beam.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Ultrasound_Torch_Height_Controller<br /> <br /> its clear that a capacitive solution will require totally different operation when going to a plasma cutter instead of oxy. infact, the capacitive sensor isn't even used - rather the voltage is measured between the torch and table to control height.<br /> <br /> that means two different technologies to achieve the same thing, because you need the capacitive measurement when the torch is off for the initial height.<br /> <br /> i think ultrasonic may be the way to go because it wont be affected by the two different modes of cutting. it could be cheaper, and simpler to maintain.<br /> <br /> you also need to consider height reduction after the cut commences. you could feed an isolated voltage/current measurment to tell the controlled when to drop the torch head.<br /> <br /> shielded cables are a must- some good stuff here, actually a noise reduction bible-<br /> http://www.cnccookbook.com/CCCNCNoise.html<br /> <br /> also<br /> http://www.randyray.com/tmc/rf_shielding.htm<br /> <br /> =28th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> [https://docs.google.com/drawings/d/1IMUu0otp7BRCflIRYKZ1JqR3lF3VF8OBjkPQXPQbV3A/edit created Parallel workflow diagram.] Google draw sucks though. Doesn't know how to filter images for different sizes.<br /> <br /> [http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Build_Instructions embedded this drawing into the build instructions page]<br /> <br /> Added the hinge mechanism and lid build to the dozuki for the soil mixer.<br /> <br /> =27th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> Created bunk bed design. 2 bracket pathways we need to decide on.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Bunk_Bed<br /> <br /> bunk bed specs<br /> 5'2&quot; top level for matress<br /> 1'2&quot; bottom level for matress<br /> 6'4&quot; max height<br /> <br /> moved copy from http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Fabrication_Drawings to http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Build_Instructions<br /> <br /> Setup build instructions for bucket on dozuki<br /> http://opensourceecology.dozuki.com/Guide/Installing+Soil+Mixer+-+Module+-+Bucket+The+soil+pulverizer+bucket/126?revisionid=HEAD<br /> <br /> brief discussion of using internet lines as one connection.<br /> if your going to be paying for 2 internet connections it would be good to load balance them both from one location and distribute it out from there. this would solve the problem of having large numbers of people, and since you are already paying for the second line it makes sense to do it. currently with just 10 users, 50kbit/s up is not going to cut it.<br /> <br /> running ethernet up to the micro house could be done with a switch no more than every 100 meters to boost the signal. if power is an issue power over ethernet could be used also, mentioned in this thread<br /> http://forums.whirlpool.net.au/archive/1164805<br /> <br /> so onto using two connections as one-<br /> <br /> Load balancing is easier than bonding.<br /> <br /> Bonding will double web speed for a single user with 2 internet connections. however this is unnecessary.<br /> <br /> Load balancing will not give you a maximum of 2x the speed for a single, but it will distribute traffic to each of the connections on demand if done correctly. In the real world this means with large numbers of users the web will perform just as well as in bonding. You need to make sure that with 2 connections going in that the load balancing won't just act as a failsafe - switch over to different internet connection if one fails. you want both connections to be used.<br /> <br /> http://www.increasebroadbandspeed.co.uk/what-is-adsl-load-balancing<br /> <br /> if you have a wrt54gl router this might be a good start to figuring this out.<br /> <br /> to achieve this your going to need to position those 2 adsl modems in the same location, before the load balancing hardware - router.<br /> <br /> The ISP doesn't have to know about it if you want to load balance yourself. I believe it can be done without them<br /> <br /> this guy did it with that router-<br /> http://forum.kitz.co.uk/index.php?topic=12308.msg232604#msg232604<br /> <br /> =26th March, 2014=<br /> * Measured out boards for the side rooms.<br /> * Did file format tests import into houdini.<br /> * Spoke to randy on the phone and cuts are ready for pickup. http://www.seamanschuske.com/Seaman_and_Schuske/Welcome.html<br /> <br /> It will now be possible to create a large chunk of the workflow in sketchup for documentation and build procedure. From a base model we can have in the same file procedural references for everything including<br /> *CAD layout for DXF export to CNC.<br /> *exploded view as animation<br /> *fabrication procedure as animation.<br /> *fabrication procedure frames for print manual and dozuki.<br /> <br /> what this means if the base model needs updates, all these dependencies will update too. problems are the plugin is unstable in 2014. it crashes when setting or getting states, using scenes, and also exporting .mp4 doesn't work.<br /> <br /> plan for sketchup video<br /> show dropbox sharing. show scenes, layers groups. show circles and tricks with CAD. show dxf conversion tricks and laying out in sketchup.<br /> <br /> * good sketchup video on scenes<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qEYmiKh-sqs<br /> * groups and components - make sure you know when to use which, or your file will get slow quickly.<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7V_KbxXVt0I<br /> * layers<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fBdP499iw0Y<br /> *speed enhancements<br /> https://sites.google.com/site/sketchupsage/faster<br /> <br /> *dynamic components - pro only<br /> http://help.sketchup.com/en/article/94885<br /> <br /> *plugins<br /> http://sketchucation.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=10&amp;t=36583&amp;p=322249&amp;hilit=+add+hidden+layer+#p322249<br /> <br /> Thinks like the tunes on the rototiller, or grid beam should be designated in sketchup as dynamic components. building them in other software throws away the procedural abitiy of other software, or adding complexity to do it through other plugins to enable software like freecad or open scad.<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;html&gt;&lt;script type=&quot;text/javascript&quot;<br /> data-dozuki-embed='3'<br /> src=&quot;http://d1luk0418egahw.cloudfront.net/static/embed/ifixit-embed.3.js#id=130&amp;site=opensourceecology.dozuki.com&quot;&gt;<br /> &lt;/script&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://opensourceecology.dozuki.com/Guide/Installing+Soil+Mixer+-+Module+-+Toothbar+Teeth/130&quot;&gt;Installing Soil Mixer - Module - Toothbar Teeth&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/html&gt;<br /> <br /> =25th March, 2014=<br /> *updated fabrication procedure text for marcin to review. updated exploded parts diagram and CAM layout numbering. <br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Fabrication_Drawings<br /> *added washers into sketchup file<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_3D_CAD<br /> <br /> *fixed p29 length in cam files to accomodate washers in the hinges<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_CAM<br /> <br /> *Updated cam files protocol<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/CAM_Files_Protocol#Other_Resources<br /> <br /> Note: A lot of time seems to be lost when design changes are made and dependent files on the sketchup such as the dxf, images on the wiki, and wiki uploads to keep everything current need to take place. potentially a more desirable solution would be to have the ability to synchronize all these changes at once.<br /> <br /> =24th March, 2014=<br /> [http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_CAM Updated DXF to send to seaman schuske - Randy Clinton]<br /> *increased the diameter by 1/16th on all the holes except the quick attach mount, and the 3 ground plates because they are already oversized to .625&quot;<br /> <br /> [http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_3D_CAD Updated 3D CAD Sketchup file for exploded diagram and DXF generation]<br /> <br /> <br /> [http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Exploded_Parts_Diagram Updated exploded parts diagram]<br /> <br /> *Updated fabrication diagram text.<br /> <br /> =21th March, 2014=<br /> *Updated exploded view and part numbering.<br /> [[Image:ExplodedView.jpg|400px]]<br /> <br /> *Updated CAM and CAD. Removed extra lines from CAM. fixed radius on motor holes, removed extra motor holes for bolt.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_3D_CAD<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_CAM<br /> <br /> *Added 2nd coat of lime wash to second last room.<br /> *Anthony added first coat of lime wash to last room.<br /> <br /> =20th March, 2014=<br /> *bearing spec for bolt holes is incorrect - should be .625 - http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/File:Bearing178.jpg<br /> *needed to add 4 extra holes into the sidewall<br /> *tested internet, and its not going to be fast enough for a large group of people. good for a few people, up to 4 maybe.<br /> *[http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Exploded_Parts_Diagram Added exploded parts diagram]<br /> *Rubbed out walls in last 2 east rooms. Moved the big glass sheets into the silo. Prepped whitewash and applied into the second last room.<br /> <br /> =19th March, 2014=<br /> *fixed a wheelbarrow axel by replacing the pin and putting 3 large washers on there. After pumping up the tires it'll be good as new.<br /> *mixxed approx 5 shovels of sand to 4-5 shovels of very clayey soil to plaster the window and door on the outside room. this took a lot longer than anticipated to do the job well. plastering on top of the window and door frame required almost 100% clay just to stick, I'm wondering if it will crack but it was the only way it would stick on there even with the wire mesh.<br /> *used sprayer and a damp cloth to smooth out the walls to prep for limewash<br /> *Added suggested ratio to lime wash and plaster ratio suggestion.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Lime_Plaster_and_Wash#BoM<br /> *[http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasertoc.htm came across a sweet link from anthony to make your own laser - laser sam]<br /> <br /> =18th March, 2014=<br /> Uploaded timelapse videos<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kMBSe5V7M8E<br /> <br /> Updated sketchup file to reposition the holes for the mounts. some inaccuracies were present in the components attaching to the shaft.<br /> <br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_3D_CAD<br /> <br /> sketchup note: when creating circles, you must go to window, entity info, chad change the segments from 24 to 48. most circles look like ploys other wise and this will follow through to the machine file.<br /> <br /> Moved everything from the outer rooms into office and silo. took a while because there was a lot of sorting. some things needed to be inside. <br /> <br /> applied lime wash to a wall in the middle room. tomorrow need to smooth out the rendering with a rag. also staple chicken air and get sand from micro house.<br /> <br /> tommorrow - fix sheets and dimensions. get a quote from Justin Fuston<br /> https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0ArpE5Y9PpJCXdGpUZ3dqYWw3czQzZ09IUHFpRl9VT1E#gid=0<br /> <br /> =17th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> Updated CAD. Chamfered corners, removed excess hinge parts, rotated struts 90 degrees. added gussets, but now they may not be necessary with the struts at 90 degrees. easy to remove. stacking of the hinge components around the hydraulic mechanism has been changed for better strength and ease of construction.<br /> <br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_3D_CAD<br /> <br /> This has been fixed. see video! you just need to clear the prefs.<br /> &lt;strike&gt;I also submitted a complaint to google, sketch up 2014 eliminated features in the free version of 2013 so that you have to pay for them. It's no longer possible to export to 3DS and most other pro formats now.&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> <br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A9TdFNZwLtc&amp;feature=em-upload_owner<br /> <br /> &lt;html&gt;<br /> &lt;iframe width=&quot;560&quot; height=&quot;315&quot; src=&quot;//www.youtube.com/embed/A9TdFNZwLtc&quot; frameborder=&quot;0&quot; allowfullscreen&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;<br /> &lt;/html&gt;<br /> <br /> Microhouse-<br /> - Painted walls with white.<br /> <br /> - Moved weights into the silo.<br /> <br /> - prepped lime in 1 to one in the white container.<br /> <br /> =16th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> Added dhal to recipes-<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Recipes<br /> <br /> Fixed vacuum cleaner.<br /> <br /> Setup DIY mouse trap design to drown rodents.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Mouse_trap<br /> <br /> =15th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> Recipe for Dahl. For 8 people.<br /> Awesome vegetarian power food high in protein.<br /> <br /> 4 onions.<br /> <br /> half a bulb of garlic<br /> <br /> 1.5kg lentils or split peas, soaked for as long as you can during the day, overnight if possible. if not, it will just take longer to cook but it works out fine. rinse them thoroughly!<br /> <br /> Coconut oil<br /> <br /> teaspoon whole cumin seeds<br /> <br /> cumin powder<br /> <br /> garam masala<br /> <br /> salt<br /> <br /> pepper<br /> <br /> chilli or cayenne pepper<br /> <br /> turmeric<br /> <br /> sour cream and cilantro for garnish.<br /> <br /> heat the oil and keep an eye on it so it doesn't smoke.<br /> fry the cumin seeds for a bit then add the onions and garlic on high. when the onions are clear to brown colour add 1/2 teaspoons of the rest of the spices and the lentils. add water to the pot until the lentils are just covered.<br /> keep on high heat until it starts to boil, then simmer until the lentils are soft/falling apart. this usually takes an hour.<br /> add to bowls and garnish with the cilantro and sour cream!<br /> <br /> <br /> -------<br /> <br /> <br /> Added large grain sand and clay mix to top right corner of hablab. when dried we added mist and then lime wash. it may need another layer.<br /> <br /> Painted the outside door frames yellow.<br /> <br /> Modifications added to http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Review<br /> <br /> Current design revisions-<br /> <br /> 1. Long reinforcement on edge of lid - 1/4 x 2. Current reinforcement needs to be rotated 90 degrees.<br /> <br /> 2. Centre the cylinder mount, add an extra strut for symmetry.<br /> <br /> 3. gusset 1/2&quot; x 4&quot; triangle on the rod end mount<br /> <br /> 4. 45 degrees angle on outside hinge to lip mount.<br /> <br /> =14th March, 2014=<br /> tomatoe varieties for OSE - <br /> jetstart<br /> homestead,<br /> bhn 1021<br /> defiant phr<br /> <br /> setting out planting guide for kansas city<br /> http://www.almanac.com/gardening/planting-dates/zipcode/64151<br /> <br /> =13th March, 2014=<br /> Updated cad file and range of motion. Added hinges and correct thicknesses.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_3D_CAD<br /> <br /> [[Image:sketchupModel.png|400px]]<br /> <br /> Collaboration notes: setting up remote collaboration for the design process in solid works can be aided by a synchronized web folder to users local paths. drop box achieves this but has a size limit. we need software that can do that locally to a raid array with offsite backup. Eric Potash suggested aero fs https://www.aerofs.com<br /> We also have http://www.bittorrent.com/sync which looks very promising with redundancy and http://owncloud.org<br /> <br /> Lime wash<br /> <br /> Determined that the 4 parts lime/3 parts water then salt added (salt is 1/5th the lime amount by volume, not weight) is a good mix provided the surface is smooth. On a rough surface this mix is too thick. If the mix is too thick it can crack due to shrinkage after drying.<br /> For a rough surface, this mix instead works - 1 part lime / 1 part water by volume, with salt being the same ratio as before - 1/5th the amount of lime by volume.<br /> It isn't necessary to mix the salt with more water prior to mixing with a drill in both these recipes. this was done on previous days to help mix more evenly, but these mixes are both watery enough to not worry about this.<br /> <br /> Pre misting the area before applying the lime wash prevents cracking significantly. This is done by lightly misting so the soil looks darkened and damp, but not soaking wet which affects the bond negatively. Waiting a while to see it dry a little (~30 seconds) and repeating this 4 or 5 times helps create a deeper bond into to adobe wall when the lime wash is applied.<br /> <br /> Hard synthetic brushes are ok to use only on smoothly rendered stucco, but on mud stucco these can be too abrasive and affect application. softer brushes like the thick ones we use from horse hair apply the mix really smoothly and work really well on both types of surfaces.<br /> <br /> [[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tgDarFYW7hk 4/3 mix failing in divots]]<br /> [[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QrqwRHOAA8s testing with spray]]<br /> <br /> For filling holes with earth plaster, Chris also added that they had success when mixing coarse grain sand with the clayey soil 3/1 and that there was no shrinkage problems when filling holes. they mixed it with their hands. they also sprayed the wall which helped.<br /> <br /> 3D Printer that Coulton fixed!<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MH_0sHNAd9w<br /> <br /> =12th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> *3D range of motion test for hydraulic cylinder.<br /> *http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Opening_Mechanism_Module_-_Calculations<br /> *http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/File:RangeOfMotion.png<br /> *http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Opening_Mechanism_Module_-_Bill_of_Materials<br /> *Hablab whitewash testing - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BiA1LRERXjU&amp;list=UU0Jra6oMPLejbnPr4bzxdpg<br /> <br /> Determined that thick 2 to 1 lime/water ratio is too thick and cracks in some areas. Prepping with misting the adobe layer before limewashing definitely reduces cracking.<br /> We are also testing two recipes for tomorrow. One that is 4/3 Lime/water. The other that is 1/1. We will test both of these to see which works better.<br /> <br /> <br /> =11th March, 2014=<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KjADHmrkFy4<br /> <br /> Tested different whitewash formula. it appeared that thick lime wash was less tolerant of some areas of the wall and was peeling back at some points after some time had passed. We applied a thin whitewash with the consistency of cream or milk at the end to different parts of the wall to see if we could avoid the peeling problem.<br /> <br /> Drew the clamshell mechanism and hinge in sketch up for the Soil Mixer.<br /> <br /> Screenshot<br /> [[Image:WIPsoild_mixer_and_lid.png|200px]]<br /> <br /> <br /> Sketchup in progress<br /> [[File:SoilPulverizerV1s001.skp]]<br /> <br /> =10th March, 2014=<br /> Timelapse of wall painting-<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o4bef_KFQts<br /> <br /> Helped sketch designs for soil mixer.<br /> <br /> Painted wall with Lauren and Cat. (timelapse video in progress)<br /> <br /> Cooked thai style fried rice for dinner.<br /> <br /> Commenced ideation for procedural animation of the GVCS in Houdini for documentation.<br /> <br /> =9th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> [[Soil Mixer Requirements]].<br /> <br /> Append design Rationale -<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_Construction_Set_Requirements<br /> <br /> Laid hay over the ground to stop mud being moved along the path.</div>

Andrew Graham https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=CEB_Press_6_-_Controller_Module_-_Requirements&diff=118435 2014-04-10T15:37:53Z

<p>Andrew Graham: </p> <hr /> <div>&lt;html&gt;&lt;iframe src=&quot;https://docs.google.com/document/d/11deHuTHwnXVGwOAiGU-PDnJxmzbjP9ZpLYPTA-D4dCo/pub?embedded=true&quot; width=100% height=600&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&lt;/html&gt;<br /> [https://docs.google.com/document/d/11deHuTHwnXVGwOAiGU-PDnJxmzbjP9ZpLYPTA-D4dCo edit]</div>

Andrew Graham https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=CEB_Press_6_-_Controller_Module_-_Bill_of_Materials&diff=118434 2014-04-10T15:08:46Z

<p>Andrew Graham: </p> <hr /> <div>&lt;html&gt;&lt;iframe width='500' height='300' frameborder='0' src='https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/pub?key=0AiftBIpw4OLAdFYtQTB1RUtMUXZZNnNjWWJ6SGRYT1E&amp;output=html&amp;widget=true'&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&lt;/html&gt;<br /> [https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AiftBIpw4OLAdFYtQTB1RUtMUXZZNnNjWWJ6SGRYT1E#gid=0 edit]</div>

Andrew Graham https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=CEB_Press_6_-_Controller_Module_-_Bill_of_Materials&diff=118433 2014-04-10T15:08:13Z

<p>Andrew Graham: Created page with &quot;&lt;html&gt;&lt;iframe width=&#039;500&#039; height=&#039;300&#039; frameborder=&#039;0&#039; src=&#039;https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/pub?key=0AiftBIpw4OLAdFYtQTB1RUtMUXZZNnNjWWJ6SGRYT1E&amp;output=html&amp;widget=true&#039;&gt;&lt;...&quot;</p> <hr /> <div>&lt;html&gt;&lt;iframe width='500' height='300' frameborder='0' src='https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/pub?key=0AiftBIpw4OLAdFYtQTB1RUtMUXZZNnNjWWJ6SGRYT1E&amp;output=html&amp;widget=true'&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&lt;/html&gt;</div>

Andrew Graham https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=CEB_Press_6_-_Controller_Module_-_Requirements&diff=118381 2014-04-09T23:20:04Z

<p>Andrew Graham: </p> <hr /> <div>&lt;html&gt;&lt;iframe src=&quot;https://docs.google.com/document/d/11deHuTHwnXVGwOAiGU-PDnJxmzbjP9ZpLYPTA-D4dCo/pub?embedded=true&quot; width=800&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&lt;/html&gt;</div>

Andrew Graham https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=CEB_Press_6_-_Controller_Module_-_Requirements&diff=118380 2014-04-09T23:19:14Z

<p>Andrew Graham: Created page with &quot;&lt;html&gt;&lt;iframe src=&quot;https://docs.google.com/document/d/11deHuTHwnXVGwOAiGU-PDnJxmzbjP9ZpLYPTA-D4dCo/pub?embedded=true&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&lt;/html&gt;&quot;</p> <hr /> <div>&lt;html&gt;&lt;iframe src=&quot;https://docs.google.com/document/d/11deHuTHwnXVGwOAiGU-PDnJxmzbjP9ZpLYPTA-D4dCo/pub?embedded=true&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&lt;/html&gt;</div>

Andrew Graham https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Andrew_Graham_Log&diff=118379 2014-04-09T22:36:07Z

<p>Andrew Graham: </p> <hr /> <div>=Ideas to implement=<br /> * Create a sketchup for OSE video to show how to draw with the right accuracy, increase circle segments, use hiding, snapping etc, arcs to measure etc. also how to post the final result using the dozuki cad template<br /> * it may be possible to layout 3D objects from sketchup in free cad to be flat. it could be done dynamically using python script. this would give a proper procedural workflow for dimensioning. doing it manually isn't feasible because adjustments to sketchup files are asking for trouble. When it comes to the cam process you have to do it all over again to ensure you aren't maintaining any old incorrect parts.<br /> http://www.freecadweb.org/wiki/index.php?title=Python_scripting_tutorial<br /> * Build a workflow in Houdini to dynamically build a dxf with dimensioning and instructions for fabrication<br /> * Build a procedural animation tool to follow a spreadsheet for construction order. The result from houdini would be an open GL animation of the build of the model.<br /> * Improve wiki usability with suggested extension by Kunda<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/User_talk:Andrew_Graham<br /> <br /> =To do list=<br /> * look at stucco sprayer<br /> * get dish detergent<br /> * empty ash container.<br /> * hot water flow threshold to turn on is too high. kitchen tap needs to be turned on full for it to work.<br /> * rodent problem -thorough clean of kitchen and seal food away.<br /> * Make a sign to make sure people don't burn treated pine in the fire.<br /> <br /> timezones seem incorrect?<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/File:Soil_Pulverizer.skp<br /> <br /> =10th April, 2014=<br /> We finished most of the bucket, all that needs to be done is weld the quick attach plates on the sides after the tractor loads it up.<br /> <br /> We lost a lot of time due to the shaft not being flat all the way across. its important to append this into the instrucitons. we should also note that tynes need to be drilled and then ground out flat, probably best to do it prior to welding the flats on.<br /> also brushing the shaft for a very easy fit for the bearings before fitting anything is an important thing to note for the build.<br /> <br /> we discussed making abox for the gopro hero3.<br /> <br /> the box that comes with it would be fine to just drill a hole in and use the usb cord to extend into a powergorilla or powermonkey. there are a lot of cheaper duplicates around but these are designed to be more ruggedised and have good multi voltage outputs.<br /> this one maybe overkill, but i find it has saved my bacon a number of times. if i forget to charge it its ok, I can run my gopro for maybe 3 days at least before charging again.<br /> https://www.powertraveller.com/en/shop/portable-chargers/professional/powergorilla/<br /> <br /> also the mini or the powermonkey extreme 12v would be adequate for all day timelapse<br /> https://www.powertraveller.com/en/shop/portable-chargers/professional/<br /> <br /> there is also a 3d printed box we could makle from here<br /> https://www.youmagine.com/designs/gopro-hero-3-box<br /> <br /> =9th April, 2014=<br /> need to adjust the build process for tynes. without a flat face, even working with gravity spatter on the nut is a big problem. a more robust process is to drill a hole, then use a grinder/cutter to flatten the area. this means there is no gap where the welds takes place on the nut and using this method they stayed more free<br /> <br /> =8th April, 2014=<br /> Had a very productive build day yesterday on the soil mixer. Things of note were-<br /> Putting the lid on was a bit of a challenge. We had to oxy cut the lid down a little more. we also realised that using clamp on the bottom to rest the lid on was usefull. it was to help get the lid in position with all the other welds for the hinges that need to take place.<br /> I made a mistake by welding the Hinge struts for the cylinder as part of the outside hinges on the lid. the parts look very similar, just a little shorter. it would help if we cut a bit of a different shape in the cad for easy identification. also to make sure everything is numbered.<br /> Putting on the hinges was easier than I thought. You can actually just use clamps or bolt and nuts for each part, keeping them at the 90 degree angle as in the design. Then position them in place getting everything square and tac away. This is all synced up in Trovebox and will be added to the documentation.<br /> <br /> <br /> =5th April, 2014=<br /> one guy got a bond with PLA on his 3d printer directly onto copper at 130C. that means if it works, and im sure it could, we could buy copper sheets directly at the weight price, and print the plastic layer on the back. print the layer on the other side as a resist layer and etch away. this has some potential.<br /> http://hydraraptor.blogspot.com/2010/04/cu-pla.html<br /> <br /> Here is a concept for a self aligning QA Lip<br /> <br /> [[Image:Self Aligning QA Mount.jpg|600px]]<br /> <br /> this can be improved by inverting the wedge and having it internally.<br /> <br /> =4th April, 2014=<br /> Fixed the construction order of the bucket on the dozuki and updated the tines production process to reflect what is happening now.<br /> <br /> Had lots of problems with the wire feeder on the welder today when trying to finish the QA Lip. but we got a lot more done towards the end of the day getting most of the bucket and lip tacked in place. almost ready to start putting on the lid once those welds are finished.<br /> <br /> <br /> =2nd April, 2014=<br /> <br /> today I cut up the larger pieces of stock on the iron worker. but we had a bit of a blocker and that was 2 big pieces that need to be cut with a torch. so we couldn't continue on the main bucket apart form the side walls, but we were busy all day anyway cutting up all the other necessary parts from stock, tubing, and tacking half the teeth.<br /> <br /> I thought this was a good read<br /> <br /> http://www.thefabricator.com/article/arcwelding/22-possible-causes-of-weld-metal-porosity<br /> and this -<br /> http://www.daihen-usa.com/techtips.php<br /> <br /> The first article says porosity is necessarily a deal breaker unless its really bad or a structural requirement<br /> <br /> I learnt to day that having the angle of the tool right made a big difference at about 15 degrees off perpendicular. paint was also causing major problems, so after an initial tack i went grinding along all the seams, welded again and ground out the old bad tacks. <br /> <br /> I know Marcin didn't want us to use the grinder, but it became a necessity with the paint on the rebar that needed to be removed along the seams. I used to grind out heaps of hot water systems I used to find for scrap copper thought so i felt comfortable doing it and it was perfectly safe, I used the small grinder which I'm used to.<br /> <br /> I learnt that when tacking, if it peels a piece back in the other direction after shrinkage, that its better to tack less, just a tiny dot, so that its more malleable. then you can tack the other side more easily without breaking it and then finish with some more solid tacks.<br /> <br /> <br /> =1st April, 2014=<br /> Relocated lots of stuff in the workshop and did some cleanup. Learnt how to weld with Marcin.<br /> <br /> =31st March, 2014=<br /> Upload in progress for a you tube video showing how to produce diagrams in sketchup using scenes for dozuki.<br /> <br /> Finished the dozuki for the Soil Mixer.<br /> <br /> Found an interesting resource on hardening steel<br /> http://www.roymech.co.uk/Useful_Tables/Matter/Hardening.html<br /> <br /> =29th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> Happy birthday to me!<br /> <br /> This shows 3 channel capacitive sensing with an arduino.<br /> http://playground.arduino.cc/Main/CapacitiveSensor?from=Main.CapSense#.UzeQ0dzgg8M<br /> <br /> one thing i wonder about is interference with other objects and people around the table though. when the sense gets near the edges, this could change. i wonder if its being used for this purpose in the real world now how they deal with this issue - if it is an issue that is.<br /> <br /> if the sensor is closer to the plate, with a lower value resistor being used, then this could limit interference.<br /> <br /> using a ring or toroid will have increased sensitivity in the axis perpendicular to the ring. this is because the delta in the field is greater in this axis. good idea!<br /> http://www.agelkom.com.tr/prod02.htm<br /> <br /> you can vary pwm as cutting height is approached to get finer control and slower z speed.<br /> http://www.agelkom.com.tr/cap04_pwm_function.htm<br /> <br /> note aluminium case for shielding of circuit.<br /> http://www.cnc4pc.com/Store/osc/product_info.php?products_id=339?osCsid=9cb438690de2f645e1a951bef1ba4df8<br /> <br /> looking at the material and justins log, i like the idea of using the adafruit ultrasonic range sensor. I drew an idea for some reflector geometry to let us measure a disc pattern instead of a narrow beam.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Ultrasound_Torch_Height_Controller<br /> <br /> its clear that a capacitive solution will require totally different operation when going to a plasma cutter instead of oxy. infact, the capacitive sensor isn't even used - rather the voltage is measured between the torch and table to control height.<br /> <br /> that means two different technologies to achieve the same thing, because you need the capacitive measurement when the torch is off for the initial height.<br /> <br /> i think ultrasonic may be the way to go because it wont be affected by the two different modes of cutting. it could be cheaper, and simpler to maintain.<br /> <br /> you also need to consider height reduction after the cut commences. you could feed an isolated voltage/current measurment to tell the controlled when to drop the torch head.<br /> <br /> shielded cables are a must- some good stuff here, actually a noise reduction bible-<br /> http://www.cnccookbook.com/CCCNCNoise.html<br /> <br /> also<br /> http://www.randyray.com/tmc/rf_shielding.htm<br /> <br /> =28th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> [https://docs.google.com/drawings/d/1IMUu0otp7BRCflIRYKZ1JqR3lF3VF8OBjkPQXPQbV3A/edit created Parallel workflow diagram.] Google draw sucks though. Doesn't know how to filter images for different sizes.<br /> <br /> [http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Build_Instructions embedded this drawing into the build instructions page]<br /> <br /> Added the hinge mechanism and lid build to the dozuki for the soil mixer.<br /> <br /> =27th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> Created bunk bed design. 2 bracket pathways we need to decide on.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Bunk_Bed<br /> <br /> bunk bed specs<br /> 5'2&quot; top level for matress<br /> 1'2&quot; bottom level for matress<br /> 6'4&quot; max height<br /> <br /> moved copy from http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Fabrication_Drawings to http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Build_Instructions<br /> <br /> Setup build instructions for bucket on dozuki<br /> http://opensourceecology.dozuki.com/Guide/Installing+Soil+Mixer+-+Module+-+Bucket+The+soil+pulverizer+bucket/126?revisionid=HEAD<br /> <br /> brief discussion of using internet lines as one connection.<br /> if your going to be paying for 2 internet connections it would be good to load balance them both from one location and distribute it out from there. this would solve the problem of having large numbers of people, and since you are already paying for the second line it makes sense to do it. currently with just 10 users, 50kbit/s up is not going to cut it.<br /> <br /> running ethernet up to the micro house could be done with a switch no more than every 100 meters to boost the signal. if power is an issue power over ethernet could be used also, mentioned in this thread<br /> http://forums.whirlpool.net.au/archive/1164805<br /> <br /> so onto using two connections as one-<br /> <br /> Load balancing is easier than bonding.<br /> <br /> Bonding will double web speed for a single user with 2 internet connections. however this is unnecessary.<br /> <br /> Load balancing will not give you a maximum of 2x the speed for a single, but it will distribute traffic to each of the connections on demand if done correctly. In the real world this means with large numbers of users the web will perform just as well as in bonding. You need to make sure that with 2 connections going in that the load balancing won't just act as a failsafe - switch over to different internet connection if one fails. you want both connections to be used.<br /> <br /> http://www.increasebroadbandspeed.co.uk/what-is-adsl-load-balancing<br /> <br /> if you have a wrt54gl router this might be a good start to figuring this out.<br /> <br /> to achieve this your going to need to position those 2 adsl modems in the same location, before the load balancing hardware - router.<br /> <br /> The ISP doesn't have to know about it if you want to load balance yourself. I believe it can be done without them<br /> <br /> this guy did it with that router-<br /> http://forum.kitz.co.uk/index.php?topic=12308.msg232604#msg232604<br /> <br /> =26th March, 2014=<br /> * Measured out boards for the side rooms.<br /> * Did file format tests import into houdini.<br /> * Spoke to randy on the phone and cuts are ready for pickup. http://www.seamanschuske.com/Seaman_and_Schuske/Welcome.html<br /> <br /> It will now be possible to create a large chunk of the workflow in sketchup for documentation and build procedure. From a base model we can have in the same file procedural references for everything including<br /> *CAD layout for DXF export to CNC.<br /> *exploded view as animation<br /> *fabrication procedure as animation.<br /> *fabrication procedure frames for print manual and dozuki.<br /> <br /> what this means if the base model needs updates, all these dependencies will update too. problems are the plugin is unstable in 2014. it crashes when setting or getting states, using scenes, and also exporting .mp4 doesn't work.<br /> <br /> plan for sketchup video<br /> show dropbox sharing. show scenes, layers groups. show circles and tricks with CAD. show dxf conversion tricks and laying out in sketchup.<br /> <br /> * good sketchup video on scenes<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qEYmiKh-sqs<br /> * groups and components - make sure you know when to use which, or your file will get slow quickly.<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7V_KbxXVt0I<br /> * layers<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fBdP499iw0Y<br /> *speed enhancements<br /> https://sites.google.com/site/sketchupsage/faster<br /> <br /> *dynamic components - pro only<br /> http://help.sketchup.com/en/article/94885<br /> <br /> *plugins<br /> http://sketchucation.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=10&amp;t=36583&amp;p=322249&amp;hilit=+add+hidden+layer+#p322249<br /> <br /> Thinks like the tunes on the rototiller, or grid beam should be designated in sketchup as dynamic components. building them in other software throws away the procedural abitiy of other software, or adding complexity to do it through other plugins to enable software like freecad or open scad.<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;html&gt;&lt;script type=&quot;text/javascript&quot;<br /> data-dozuki-embed='3'<br /> src=&quot;http://d1luk0418egahw.cloudfront.net/static/embed/ifixit-embed.3.js#id=130&amp;site=opensourceecology.dozuki.com&quot;&gt;<br /> &lt;/script&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://opensourceecology.dozuki.com/Guide/Installing+Soil+Mixer+-+Module+-+Toothbar+Teeth/130&quot;&gt;Installing Soil Mixer - Module - Toothbar Teeth&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/html&gt;<br /> <br /> =25th March, 2014=<br /> *updated fabrication procedure text for marcin to review. updated exploded parts diagram and CAM layout numbering. <br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Fabrication_Drawings<br /> *added washers into sketchup file<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_3D_CAD<br /> <br /> *fixed p29 length in cam files to accomodate washers in the hinges<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_CAM<br /> <br /> *Updated cam files protocol<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/CAM_Files_Protocol#Other_Resources<br /> <br /> Note: A lot of time seems to be lost when design changes are made and dependent files on the sketchup such as the dxf, images on the wiki, and wiki uploads to keep everything current need to take place. potentially a more desirable solution would be to have the ability to synchronize all these changes at once.<br /> <br /> =24th March, 2014=<br /> [http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_CAM Updated DXF to send to seaman schuske - Randy Clinton]<br /> *increased the diameter by 1/16th on all the holes except the quick attach mount, and the 3 ground plates because they are already oversized to .625&quot;<br /> <br /> [http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_3D_CAD Updated 3D CAD Sketchup file for exploded diagram and DXF generation]<br /> <br /> <br /> [http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Exploded_Parts_Diagram Updated exploded parts diagram]<br /> <br /> *Updated fabrication diagram text.<br /> <br /> =21th March, 2014=<br /> *Updated exploded view and part numbering.<br /> [[Image:ExplodedView.jpg|400px]]<br /> <br /> *Updated CAM and CAD. Removed extra lines from CAM. fixed radius on motor holes, removed extra motor holes for bolt.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_3D_CAD<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_CAM<br /> <br /> *Added 2nd coat of lime wash to second last room.<br /> *Anthony added first coat of lime wash to last room.<br /> <br /> =20th March, 2014=<br /> *bearing spec for bolt holes is incorrect - should be .625 - http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/File:Bearing178.jpg<br /> *needed to add 4 extra holes into the sidewall<br /> *tested internet, and its not going to be fast enough for a large group of people. good for a few people, up to 4 maybe.<br /> *[http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Exploded_Parts_Diagram Added exploded parts diagram]<br /> *Rubbed out walls in last 2 east rooms. Moved the big glass sheets into the silo. Prepped whitewash and applied into the second last room.<br /> <br /> =19th March, 2014=<br /> *fixed a wheelbarrow axel by replacing the pin and putting 3 large washers on there. After pumping up the tires it'll be good as new.<br /> *mixxed approx 5 shovels of sand to 4-5 shovels of very clayey soil to plaster the window and door on the outside room. this took a lot longer than anticipated to do the job well. plastering on top of the window and door frame required almost 100% clay just to stick, I'm wondering if it will crack but it was the only way it would stick on there even with the wire mesh.<br /> *used sprayer and a damp cloth to smooth out the walls to prep for limewash<br /> *Added suggested ratio to lime wash and plaster ratio suggestion.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Lime_Plaster_and_Wash#BoM<br /> *[http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasertoc.htm came across a sweet link from anthony to make your own laser - laser sam]<br /> <br /> =18th March, 2014=<br /> Uploaded timelapse videos<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kMBSe5V7M8E<br /> <br /> Updated sketchup file to reposition the holes for the mounts. some inaccuracies were present in the components attaching to the shaft.<br /> <br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_3D_CAD<br /> <br /> sketchup note: when creating circles, you must go to window, entity info, chad change the segments from 24 to 48. most circles look like ploys other wise and this will follow through to the machine file.<br /> <br /> Moved everything from the outer rooms into office and silo. took a while because there was a lot of sorting. some things needed to be inside. <br /> <br /> applied lime wash to a wall in the middle room. tomorrow need to smooth out the rendering with a rag. also staple chicken air and get sand from micro house.<br /> <br /> tommorrow - fix sheets and dimensions. get a quote from Justin Fuston<br /> https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0ArpE5Y9PpJCXdGpUZ3dqYWw3czQzZ09IUHFpRl9VT1E#gid=0<br /> <br /> =17th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> Updated CAD. Chamfered corners, removed excess hinge parts, rotated struts 90 degrees. added gussets, but now they may not be necessary with the struts at 90 degrees. easy to remove. stacking of the hinge components around the hydraulic mechanism has been changed for better strength and ease of construction.<br /> <br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_3D_CAD<br /> <br /> This has been fixed. see video! you just need to clear the prefs.<br /> &lt;strike&gt;I also submitted a complaint to google, sketch up 2014 eliminated features in the free version of 2013 so that you have to pay for them. It's no longer possible to export to 3DS and most other pro formats now.&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> <br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A9TdFNZwLtc&amp;feature=em-upload_owner<br /> <br /> &lt;html&gt;<br /> &lt;iframe width=&quot;560&quot; height=&quot;315&quot; src=&quot;//www.youtube.com/embed/A9TdFNZwLtc&quot; frameborder=&quot;0&quot; allowfullscreen&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;<br /> &lt;/html&gt;<br /> <br /> Microhouse-<br /> - Painted walls with white.<br /> <br /> - Moved weights into the silo.<br /> <br /> - prepped lime in 1 to one in the white container.<br /> <br /> =16th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> Added dhal to recipes-<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Recipes<br /> <br /> Fixed vacuum cleaner.<br /> <br /> Setup DIY mouse trap design to drown rodents.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Mouse_trap<br /> <br /> =15th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> Recipe for Dahl. For 8 people.<br /> Awesome vegetarian power food high in protein.<br /> <br /> 4 onions.<br /> <br /> half a bulb of garlic<br /> <br /> 1.5kg lentils or split peas, soaked for as long as you can during the day, overnight if possible. if not, it will just take longer to cook but it works out fine. rinse them thoroughly!<br /> <br /> Coconut oil<br /> <br /> teaspoon whole cumin seeds<br /> <br /> cumin powder<br /> <br /> garam masala<br /> <br /> salt<br /> <br /> pepper<br /> <br /> chilli or cayenne pepper<br /> <br /> turmeric<br /> <br /> sour cream and cilantro for garnish.<br /> <br /> heat the oil and keep an eye on it so it doesn't smoke.<br /> fry the cumin seeds for a bit then add the onions and garlic on high. when the onions are clear to brown colour add 1/2 teaspoons of the rest of the spices and the lentils. add water to the pot until the lentils are just covered.<br /> keep on high heat until it starts to boil, then simmer until the lentils are soft/falling apart. this usually takes an hour.<br /> add to bowls and garnish with the cilantro and sour cream!<br /> <br /> <br /> -------<br /> <br /> <br /> Added large grain sand and clay mix to top right corner of hablab. when dried we added mist and then lime wash. it may need another layer.<br /> <br /> Painted the outside door frames yellow.<br /> <br /> Modifications added to http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Review<br /> <br /> Current design revisions-<br /> <br /> 1. Long reinforcement on edge of lid - 1/4 x 2. Current reinforcement needs to be rotated 90 degrees.<br /> <br /> 2. Centre the cylinder mount, add an extra strut for symmetry.<br /> <br /> 3. gusset 1/2&quot; x 4&quot; triangle on the rod end mount<br /> <br /> 4. 45 degrees angle on outside hinge to lip mount.<br /> <br /> =14th March, 2014=<br /> tomatoe varieties for OSE - <br /> jetstart<br /> homestead,<br /> bhn 1021<br /> defiant phr<br /> <br /> setting out planting guide for kansas city<br /> http://www.almanac.com/gardening/planting-dates/zipcode/64151<br /> <br /> =13th March, 2014=<br /> Updated cad file and range of motion. Added hinges and correct thicknesses.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_3D_CAD<br /> <br /> [[Image:sketchupModel.png|400px]]<br /> <br /> Collaboration notes: setting up remote collaboration for the design process in solid works can be aided by a synchronized web folder to users local paths. drop box achieves this but has a size limit. we need software that can do that locally to a raid array with offsite backup. Eric Potash suggested aero fs https://www.aerofs.com<br /> We also have http://www.bittorrent.com/sync which looks very promising with redundancy and http://owncloud.org<br /> <br /> Lime wash<br /> <br /> Determined that the 4 parts lime/3 parts water then salt added (salt is 1/5th the lime amount by volume, not weight) is a good mix provided the surface is smooth. On a rough surface this mix is too thick. If the mix is too thick it can crack due to shrinkage after drying.<br /> For a rough surface, this mix instead works - 1 part lime / 1 part water by volume, with salt being the same ratio as before - 1/5th the amount of lime by volume.<br /> It isn't necessary to mix the salt with more water prior to mixing with a drill in both these recipes. this was done on previous days to help mix more evenly, but these mixes are both watery enough to not worry about this.<br /> <br /> Pre misting the area before applying the lime wash prevents cracking significantly. This is done by lightly misting so the soil looks darkened and damp, but not soaking wet which affects the bond negatively. Waiting a while to see it dry a little (~30 seconds) and repeating this 4 or 5 times helps create a deeper bond into to adobe wall when the lime wash is applied.<br /> <br /> Hard synthetic brushes are ok to use only on smoothly rendered stucco, but on mud stucco these can be too abrasive and affect application. softer brushes like the thick ones we use from horse hair apply the mix really smoothly and work really well on both types of surfaces.<br /> <br /> [[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tgDarFYW7hk 4/3 mix failing in divots]]<br /> [[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QrqwRHOAA8s testing with spray]]<br /> <br /> For filling holes with earth plaster, Chris also added that they had success when mixing coarse grain sand with the clayey soil 3/1 and that there was no shrinkage problems when filling holes. they mixed it with their hands. they also sprayed the wall which helped.<br /> <br /> 3D Printer that Coulton fixed!<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MH_0sHNAd9w<br /> <br /> =12th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> *3D range of motion test for hydraulic cylinder.<br /> *http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Opening_Mechanism_Module_-_Calculations<br /> *http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/File:RangeOfMotion.png<br /> *http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Opening_Mechanism_Module_-_Bill_of_Materials<br /> *Hablab whitewash testing - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BiA1LRERXjU&amp;list=UU0Jra6oMPLejbnPr4bzxdpg<br /> <br /> Determined that thick 2 to 1 lime/water ratio is too thick and cracks in some areas. Prepping with misting the adobe layer before limewashing definitely reduces cracking.<br /> We are also testing two recipes for tomorrow. One that is 4/3 Lime/water. The other that is 1/1. We will test both of these to see which works better.<br /> <br /> <br /> =11th March, 2014=<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KjADHmrkFy4<br /> <br /> Tested different whitewash formula. it appeared that thick lime wash was less tolerant of some areas of the wall and was peeling back at some points after some time had passed. We applied a thin whitewash with the consistency of cream or milk at the end to different parts of the wall to see if we could avoid the peeling problem.<br /> <br /> Drew the clamshell mechanism and hinge in sketch up for the Soil Mixer.<br /> <br /> Screenshot<br /> [[Image:WIPsoild_mixer_and_lid.png|200px]]<br /> <br /> <br /> Sketchup in progress<br /> [[File:SoilPulverizerV1s001.skp]]<br /> <br /> =10th March, 2014=<br /> Timelapse of wall painting-<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o4bef_KFQts<br /> <br /> Helped sketch designs for soil mixer.<br /> <br /> Painted wall with Lauren and Cat. (timelapse video in progress)<br /> <br /> Cooked thai style fried rice for dinner.<br /> <br /> Commenced ideation for procedural animation of the GVCS in Houdini for documentation.<br /> <br /> =9th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> [[Soil Mixer Requirements]].<br /> <br /> Append design Rationale -<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_Construction_Set_Requirements<br /> <br /> Laid hay over the ground to stop mud being moved along the path.</div>

Andrew Graham https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Andrew_Graham_Log&diff=118378 2014-04-09T22:26:59Z

<p>Andrew Graham: </p> <hr /> <div>=Ideas to implement=<br /> * Create a sketchup for OSE video to show how to draw with the right accuracy, increase circle segments, use hiding, snapping etc, arcs to measure etc. also how to post the final result using the dozuki cad template<br /> * it may be possible to layout 3D objects from sketchup in free cad to be flat. it could be done dynamically using python script. this would give a proper procedural workflow for dimensioning. doing it manually isn't feasible because adjustments to sketchup files are asking for trouble. When it comes to the cam process you have to do it all over again to ensure you aren't maintaining any old incorrect parts.<br /> http://www.freecadweb.org/wiki/index.php?title=Python_scripting_tutorial<br /> * Build a workflow in Houdini to dynamically build a dxf with dimensioning and instructions for fabrication<br /> * Build a procedural animation tool to follow a spreadsheet for construction order. The result from houdini would be an open GL animation of the build of the model.<br /> * Improve wiki usability with suggested extension by Kunda<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/User_talk:Andrew_Graham<br /> <br /> =To do list=<br /> * look at stucco sprayer<br /> * get dish detergent<br /> * empty ash container.<br /> * hot water flow threshold to turn on is too high. kitchen tap needs to be turned on full for it to work.<br /> * rodent problem -thorough clean of kitchen and seal food away.<br /> * Make a sign to make sure people don't burn treated pine in the fire.<br /> <br /> timezones seem incorrect?<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/File:Soil_Pulverizer.skp<br /> <br /> =10th April, 2014=<br /> We finished most of the bucket, all that needs to be done is weld the quick attach plates on the sides after the tractor loads it up.<br /> <br /> We lost a lot of time due to the shaft not being flat all the way across. its important to append this into the instrucitons. we should also note that tynes need to be drilled and then ground out flat, probably best to do it prior to welding the flats on.<br /> <br /> also brushing the shaft for a very easy fit for the bearings before fitting anything is an important thing to note for the build.<br /> <br /> <br /> =9th April, 2014=<br /> need to adjust the build process for tynes. without a flat face, even working with gravity spatter on the nut is a big problem. a more robust process is to drill a hole, then use a grinder/cutter to flatten the area. this means there is no gap where the welds takes place on the nut and using this method they stayed more free<br /> <br /> =8th April, 2014=<br /> Had a very productive build day yesterday on the soil mixer. Things of note were-<br /> Putting the lid on was a bit of a challenge. We had to oxy cut the lid down a little more. we also realised that using clamp on the bottom to rest the lid on was usefull. it was to help get the lid in position with all the other welds for the hinges that need to take place.<br /> I made a mistake by welding the Hinge struts for the cylinder as part of the outside hinges on the lid. the parts look very similar, just a little shorter. it would help if we cut a bit of a different shape in the cad for easy identification. also to make sure everything is numbered.<br /> Putting on the hinges was easier than I thought. You can actually just use clamps or bolt and nuts for each part, keeping them at the 90 degree angle as in the design. Then position them in place getting everything square and tac away. This is all synced up in Trovebox and will be added to the documentation.<br /> <br /> <br /> =5th April, 2014=<br /> one guy got a bond with PLA on his 3d printer directly onto copper at 130C. that means if it works, and im sure it could, we could buy copper sheets directly at the weight price, and print the plastic layer on the back. print the layer on the other side as a resist layer and etch away. this has some potential.<br /> http://hydraraptor.blogspot.com/2010/04/cu-pla.html<br /> <br /> Here is a concept for a self aligning QA Lip<br /> <br /> [[Image:Self Aligning QA Mount.jpg|600px]]<br /> <br /> this can be improved by inverting the wedge and having it internally.<br /> <br /> =4th April, 2014=<br /> Fixed the construction order of the bucket on the dozuki and updated the tines production process to reflect what is happening now.<br /> <br /> Had lots of problems with the wire feeder on the welder today when trying to finish the QA Lip. but we got a lot more done towards the end of the day getting most of the bucket and lip tacked in place. almost ready to start putting on the lid once those welds are finished.<br /> <br /> <br /> =2nd April, 2014=<br /> <br /> today I cut up the larger pieces of stock on the iron worker. but we had a bit of a blocker and that was 2 big pieces that need to be cut with a torch. so we couldn't continue on the main bucket apart form the side walls, but we were busy all day anyway cutting up all the other necessary parts from stock, tubing, and tacking half the teeth.<br /> <br /> I thought this was a good read<br /> <br /> http://www.thefabricator.com/article/arcwelding/22-possible-causes-of-weld-metal-porosity<br /> and this -<br /> http://www.daihen-usa.com/techtips.php<br /> <br /> The first article says porosity is necessarily a deal breaker unless its really bad or a structural requirement<br /> <br /> I learnt to day that having the angle of the tool right made a big difference at about 15 degrees off perpendicular. paint was also causing major problems, so after an initial tack i went grinding along all the seams, welded again and ground out the old bad tacks. <br /> <br /> I know Marcin didn't want us to use the grinder, but it became a necessity with the paint on the rebar that needed to be removed along the seams. I used to grind out heaps of hot water systems I used to find for scrap copper thought so i felt comfortable doing it and it was perfectly safe, I used the small grinder which I'm used to.<br /> <br /> I learnt that when tacking, if it peels a piece back in the other direction after shrinkage, that its better to tack less, just a tiny dot, so that its more malleable. then you can tack the other side more easily without breaking it and then finish with some more solid tacks.<br /> <br /> <br /> =1st April, 2014=<br /> Relocated lots of stuff in the workshop and did some cleanup. Learnt how to weld with Marcin.<br /> <br /> =31st March, 2014=<br /> Upload in progress for a you tube video showing how to produce diagrams in sketchup using scenes for dozuki.<br /> <br /> Finished the dozuki for the Soil Mixer.<br /> <br /> Found an interesting resource on hardening steel<br /> http://www.roymech.co.uk/Useful_Tables/Matter/Hardening.html<br /> <br /> =29th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> Happy birthday to me!<br /> <br /> This shows 3 channel capacitive sensing with an arduino.<br /> http://playground.arduino.cc/Main/CapacitiveSensor?from=Main.CapSense#.UzeQ0dzgg8M<br /> <br /> one thing i wonder about is interference with other objects and people around the table though. when the sense gets near the edges, this could change. i wonder if its being used for this purpose in the real world now how they deal with this issue - if it is an issue that is.<br /> <br /> if the sensor is closer to the plate, with a lower value resistor being used, then this could limit interference.<br /> <br /> using a ring or toroid will have increased sensitivity in the axis perpendicular to the ring. this is because the delta in the field is greater in this axis. good idea!<br /> http://www.agelkom.com.tr/prod02.htm<br /> <br /> you can vary pwm as cutting height is approached to get finer control and slower z speed.<br /> http://www.agelkom.com.tr/cap04_pwm_function.htm<br /> <br /> note aluminium case for shielding of circuit.<br /> http://www.cnc4pc.com/Store/osc/product_info.php?products_id=339?osCsid=9cb438690de2f645e1a951bef1ba4df8<br /> <br /> looking at the material and justins log, i like the idea of using the adafruit ultrasonic range sensor. I drew an idea for some reflector geometry to let us measure a disc pattern instead of a narrow beam.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Ultrasound_Torch_Height_Controller<br /> <br /> its clear that a capacitive solution will require totally different operation when going to a plasma cutter instead of oxy. infact, the capacitive sensor isn't even used - rather the voltage is measured between the torch and table to control height.<br /> <br /> that means two different technologies to achieve the same thing, because you need the capacitive measurement when the torch is off for the initial height.<br /> <br /> i think ultrasonic may be the way to go because it wont be affected by the two different modes of cutting. it could be cheaper, and simpler to maintain.<br /> <br /> you also need to consider height reduction after the cut commences. you could feed an isolated voltage/current measurment to tell the controlled when to drop the torch head.<br /> <br /> shielded cables are a must- some good stuff here, actually a noise reduction bible-<br /> http://www.cnccookbook.com/CCCNCNoise.html<br /> <br /> also<br /> http://www.randyray.com/tmc/rf_shielding.htm<br /> <br /> =28th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> [https://docs.google.com/drawings/d/1IMUu0otp7BRCflIRYKZ1JqR3lF3VF8OBjkPQXPQbV3A/edit created Parallel workflow diagram.] Google draw sucks though. Doesn't know how to filter images for different sizes.<br /> <br /> [http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Build_Instructions embedded this drawing into the build instructions page]<br /> <br /> Added the hinge mechanism and lid build to the dozuki for the soil mixer.<br /> <br /> =27th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> Created bunk bed design. 2 bracket pathways we need to decide on.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Bunk_Bed<br /> <br /> bunk bed specs<br /> 5'2&quot; top level for matress<br /> 1'2&quot; bottom level for matress<br /> 6'4&quot; max height<br /> <br /> moved copy from http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Fabrication_Drawings to http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Build_Instructions<br /> <br /> Setup build instructions for bucket on dozuki<br /> http://opensourceecology.dozuki.com/Guide/Installing+Soil+Mixer+-+Module+-+Bucket+The+soil+pulverizer+bucket/126?revisionid=HEAD<br /> <br /> brief discussion of using internet lines as one connection.<br /> if your going to be paying for 2 internet connections it would be good to load balance them both from one location and distribute it out from there. this would solve the problem of having large numbers of people, and since you are already paying for the second line it makes sense to do it. currently with just 10 users, 50kbit/s up is not going to cut it.<br /> <br /> running ethernet up to the micro house could be done with a switch no more than every 100 meters to boost the signal. if power is an issue power over ethernet could be used also, mentioned in this thread<br /> http://forums.whirlpool.net.au/archive/1164805<br /> <br /> so onto using two connections as one-<br /> <br /> Load balancing is easier than bonding.<br /> <br /> Bonding will double web speed for a single user with 2 internet connections. however this is unnecessary.<br /> <br /> Load balancing will not give you a maximum of 2x the speed for a single, but it will distribute traffic to each of the connections on demand if done correctly. In the real world this means with large numbers of users the web will perform just as well as in bonding. You need to make sure that with 2 connections going in that the load balancing won't just act as a failsafe - switch over to different internet connection if one fails. you want both connections to be used.<br /> <br /> http://www.increasebroadbandspeed.co.uk/what-is-adsl-load-balancing<br /> <br /> if you have a wrt54gl router this might be a good start to figuring this out.<br /> <br /> to achieve this your going to need to position those 2 adsl modems in the same location, before the load balancing hardware - router.<br /> <br /> The ISP doesn't have to know about it if you want to load balance yourself. I believe it can be done without them<br /> <br /> this guy did it with that router-<br /> http://forum.kitz.co.uk/index.php?topic=12308.msg232604#msg232604<br /> <br /> =26th March, 2014=<br /> * Measured out boards for the side rooms.<br /> * Did file format tests import into houdini.<br /> * Spoke to randy on the phone and cuts are ready for pickup. http://www.seamanschuske.com/Seaman_and_Schuske/Welcome.html<br /> <br /> It will now be possible to create a large chunk of the workflow in sketchup for documentation and build procedure. From a base model we can have in the same file procedural references for everything including<br /> *CAD layout for DXF export to CNC.<br /> *exploded view as animation<br /> *fabrication procedure as animation.<br /> *fabrication procedure frames for print manual and dozuki.<br /> <br /> what this means if the base model needs updates, all these dependencies will update too. problems are the plugin is unstable in 2014. it crashes when setting or getting states, using scenes, and also exporting .mp4 doesn't work.<br /> <br /> plan for sketchup video<br /> show dropbox sharing. show scenes, layers groups. show circles and tricks with CAD. show dxf conversion tricks and laying out in sketchup.<br /> <br /> * good sketchup video on scenes<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qEYmiKh-sqs<br /> * groups and components - make sure you know when to use which, or your file will get slow quickly.<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7V_KbxXVt0I<br /> * layers<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fBdP499iw0Y<br /> *speed enhancements<br /> https://sites.google.com/site/sketchupsage/faster<br /> <br /> *dynamic components - pro only<br /> http://help.sketchup.com/en/article/94885<br /> <br /> *plugins<br /> http://sketchucation.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=10&amp;t=36583&amp;p=322249&amp;hilit=+add+hidden+layer+#p322249<br /> <br /> Thinks like the tunes on the rototiller, or grid beam should be designated in sketchup as dynamic components. building them in other software throws away the procedural abitiy of other software, or adding complexity to do it through other plugins to enable software like freecad or open scad.<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;html&gt;&lt;script type=&quot;text/javascript&quot;<br /> data-dozuki-embed='3'<br /> src=&quot;http://d1luk0418egahw.cloudfront.net/static/embed/ifixit-embed.3.js#id=130&amp;site=opensourceecology.dozuki.com&quot;&gt;<br /> &lt;/script&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://opensourceecology.dozuki.com/Guide/Installing+Soil+Mixer+-+Module+-+Toothbar+Teeth/130&quot;&gt;Installing Soil Mixer - Module - Toothbar Teeth&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/html&gt;<br /> <br /> =25th March, 2014=<br /> *updated fabrication procedure text for marcin to review. updated exploded parts diagram and CAM layout numbering. <br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Fabrication_Drawings<br /> *added washers into sketchup file<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_3D_CAD<br /> <br /> *fixed p29 length in cam files to accomodate washers in the hinges<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_CAM<br /> <br /> *Updated cam files protocol<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/CAM_Files_Protocol#Other_Resources<br /> <br /> Note: A lot of time seems to be lost when design changes are made and dependent files on the sketchup such as the dxf, images on the wiki, and wiki uploads to keep everything current need to take place. potentially a more desirable solution would be to have the ability to synchronize all these changes at once.<br /> <br /> =24th March, 2014=<br /> [http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_CAM Updated DXF to send to seaman schuske - Randy Clinton]<br /> *increased the diameter by 1/16th on all the holes except the quick attach mount, and the 3 ground plates because they are already oversized to .625&quot;<br /> <br /> [http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_3D_CAD Updated 3D CAD Sketchup file for exploded diagram and DXF generation]<br /> <br /> <br /> [http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Exploded_Parts_Diagram Updated exploded parts diagram]<br /> <br /> *Updated fabrication diagram text.<br /> <br /> =21th March, 2014=<br /> *Updated exploded view and part numbering.<br /> [[Image:ExplodedView.jpg|400px]]<br /> <br /> *Updated CAM and CAD. Removed extra lines from CAM. fixed radius on motor holes, removed extra motor holes for bolt.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_3D_CAD<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_CAM<br /> <br /> *Added 2nd coat of lime wash to second last room.<br /> *Anthony added first coat of lime wash to last room.<br /> <br /> =20th March, 2014=<br /> *bearing spec for bolt holes is incorrect - should be .625 - http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/File:Bearing178.jpg<br /> *needed to add 4 extra holes into the sidewall<br /> *tested internet, and its not going to be fast enough for a large group of people. good for a few people, up to 4 maybe.<br /> *[http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Exploded_Parts_Diagram Added exploded parts diagram]<br /> *Rubbed out walls in last 2 east rooms. Moved the big glass sheets into the silo. Prepped whitewash and applied into the second last room.<br /> <br /> =19th March, 2014=<br /> *fixed a wheelbarrow axel by replacing the pin and putting 3 large washers on there. After pumping up the tires it'll be good as new.<br /> *mixxed approx 5 shovels of sand to 4-5 shovels of very clayey soil to plaster the window and door on the outside room. this took a lot longer than anticipated to do the job well. plastering on top of the window and door frame required almost 100% clay just to stick, I'm wondering if it will crack but it was the only way it would stick on there even with the wire mesh.<br /> *used sprayer and a damp cloth to smooth out the walls to prep for limewash<br /> *Added suggested ratio to lime wash and plaster ratio suggestion.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Lime_Plaster_and_Wash#BoM<br /> *[http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasertoc.htm came across a sweet link from anthony to make your own laser - laser sam]<br /> <br /> =18th March, 2014=<br /> Uploaded timelapse videos<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kMBSe5V7M8E<br /> <br /> Updated sketchup file to reposition the holes for the mounts. some inaccuracies were present in the components attaching to the shaft.<br /> <br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_3D_CAD<br /> <br /> sketchup note: when creating circles, you must go to window, entity info, chad change the segments from 24 to 48. most circles look like ploys other wise and this will follow through to the machine file.<br /> <br /> Moved everything from the outer rooms into office and silo. took a while because there was a lot of sorting. some things needed to be inside. <br /> <br /> applied lime wash to a wall in the middle room. tomorrow need to smooth out the rendering with a rag. also staple chicken air and get sand from micro house.<br /> <br /> tommorrow - fix sheets and dimensions. get a quote from Justin Fuston<br /> https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0ArpE5Y9PpJCXdGpUZ3dqYWw3czQzZ09IUHFpRl9VT1E#gid=0<br /> <br /> =17th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> Updated CAD. Chamfered corners, removed excess hinge parts, rotated struts 90 degrees. added gussets, but now they may not be necessary with the struts at 90 degrees. easy to remove. stacking of the hinge components around the hydraulic mechanism has been changed for better strength and ease of construction.<br /> <br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_3D_CAD<br /> <br /> This has been fixed. see video! you just need to clear the prefs.<br /> &lt;strike&gt;I also submitted a complaint to google, sketch up 2014 eliminated features in the free version of 2013 so that you have to pay for them. It's no longer possible to export to 3DS and most other pro formats now.&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> <br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A9TdFNZwLtc&amp;feature=em-upload_owner<br /> <br /> &lt;html&gt;<br /> &lt;iframe width=&quot;560&quot; height=&quot;315&quot; src=&quot;//www.youtube.com/embed/A9TdFNZwLtc&quot; frameborder=&quot;0&quot; allowfullscreen&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;<br /> &lt;/html&gt;<br /> <br /> Microhouse-<br /> - Painted walls with white.<br /> <br /> - Moved weights into the silo.<br /> <br /> - prepped lime in 1 to one in the white container.<br /> <br /> =16th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> Added dhal to recipes-<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Recipes<br /> <br /> Fixed vacuum cleaner.<br /> <br /> Setup DIY mouse trap design to drown rodents.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Mouse_trap<br /> <br /> =15th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> Recipe for Dahl. For 8 people.<br /> Awesome vegetarian power food high in protein.<br /> <br /> 4 onions.<br /> <br /> half a bulb of garlic<br /> <br /> 1.5kg lentils or split peas, soaked for as long as you can during the day, overnight if possible. if not, it will just take longer to cook but it works out fine. rinse them thoroughly!<br /> <br /> Coconut oil<br /> <br /> teaspoon whole cumin seeds<br /> <br /> cumin powder<br /> <br /> garam masala<br /> <br /> salt<br /> <br /> pepper<br /> <br /> chilli or cayenne pepper<br /> <br /> turmeric<br /> <br /> sour cream and cilantro for garnish.<br /> <br /> heat the oil and keep an eye on it so it doesn't smoke.<br /> fry the cumin seeds for a bit then add the onions and garlic on high. when the onions are clear to brown colour add 1/2 teaspoons of the rest of the spices and the lentils. add water to the pot until the lentils are just covered.<br /> keep on high heat until it starts to boil, then simmer until the lentils are soft/falling apart. this usually takes an hour.<br /> add to bowls and garnish with the cilantro and sour cream!<br /> <br /> <br /> -------<br /> <br /> <br /> Added large grain sand and clay mix to top right corner of hablab. when dried we added mist and then lime wash. it may need another layer.<br /> <br /> Painted the outside door frames yellow.<br /> <br /> Modifications added to http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Review<br /> <br /> Current design revisions-<br /> <br /> 1. Long reinforcement on edge of lid - 1/4 x 2. Current reinforcement needs to be rotated 90 degrees.<br /> <br /> 2. Centre the cylinder mount, add an extra strut for symmetry.<br /> <br /> 3. gusset 1/2&quot; x 4&quot; triangle on the rod end mount<br /> <br /> 4. 45 degrees angle on outside hinge to lip mount.<br /> <br /> =14th March, 2014=<br /> tomatoe varieties for OSE - <br /> jetstart<br /> homestead,<br /> bhn 1021<br /> defiant phr<br /> <br /> setting out planting guide for kansas city<br /> http://www.almanac.com/gardening/planting-dates/zipcode/64151<br /> <br /> =13th March, 2014=<br /> Updated cad file and range of motion. Added hinges and correct thicknesses.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_3D_CAD<br /> <br /> [[Image:sketchupModel.png|400px]]<br /> <br /> Collaboration notes: setting up remote collaboration for the design process in solid works can be aided by a synchronized web folder to users local paths. drop box achieves this but has a size limit. we need software that can do that locally to a raid array with offsite backup. Eric Potash suggested aero fs https://www.aerofs.com<br /> We also have http://www.bittorrent.com/sync which looks very promising with redundancy and http://owncloud.org<br /> <br /> Lime wash<br /> <br /> Determined that the 4 parts lime/3 parts water then salt added (salt is 1/5th the lime amount by volume, not weight) is a good mix provided the surface is smooth. On a rough surface this mix is too thick. If the mix is too thick it can crack due to shrinkage after drying.<br /> For a rough surface, this mix instead works - 1 part lime / 1 part water by volume, with salt being the same ratio as before - 1/5th the amount of lime by volume.<br /> It isn't necessary to mix the salt with more water prior to mixing with a drill in both these recipes. this was done on previous days to help mix more evenly, but these mixes are both watery enough to not worry about this.<br /> <br /> Pre misting the area before applying the lime wash prevents cracking significantly. This is done by lightly misting so the soil looks darkened and damp, but not soaking wet which affects the bond negatively. Waiting a while to see it dry a little (~30 seconds) and repeating this 4 or 5 times helps create a deeper bond into to adobe wall when the lime wash is applied.<br /> <br /> Hard synthetic brushes are ok to use only on smoothly rendered stucco, but on mud stucco these can be too abrasive and affect application. softer brushes like the thick ones we use from horse hair apply the mix really smoothly and work really well on both types of surfaces.<br /> <br /> [[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tgDarFYW7hk 4/3 mix failing in divots]]<br /> [[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QrqwRHOAA8s testing with spray]]<br /> <br /> For filling holes with earth plaster, Chris also added that they had success when mixing coarse grain sand with the clayey soil 3/1 and that there was no shrinkage problems when filling holes. they mixed it with their hands. they also sprayed the wall which helped.<br /> <br /> 3D Printer that Coulton fixed!<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MH_0sHNAd9w<br /> <br /> =12th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> *3D range of motion test for hydraulic cylinder.<br /> *http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Opening_Mechanism_Module_-_Calculations<br /> *http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/File:RangeOfMotion.png<br /> *http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Opening_Mechanism_Module_-_Bill_of_Materials<br /> *Hablab whitewash testing - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BiA1LRERXjU&amp;list=UU0Jra6oMPLejbnPr4bzxdpg<br /> <br /> Determined that thick 2 to 1 lime/water ratio is too thick and cracks in some areas. Prepping with misting the adobe layer before limewashing definitely reduces cracking.<br /> We are also testing two recipes for tomorrow. One that is 4/3 Lime/water. The other that is 1/1. We will test both of these to see which works better.<br /> <br /> <br /> =11th March, 2014=<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KjADHmrkFy4<br /> <br /> Tested different whitewash formula. it appeared that thick lime wash was less tolerant of some areas of the wall and was peeling back at some points after some time had passed. We applied a thin whitewash with the consistency of cream or milk at the end to different parts of the wall to see if we could avoid the peeling problem.<br /> <br /> Drew the clamshell mechanism and hinge in sketch up for the Soil Mixer.<br /> <br /> Screenshot<br /> [[Image:WIPsoild_mixer_and_lid.png|200px]]<br /> <br /> <br /> Sketchup in progress<br /> [[File:SoilPulverizerV1s001.skp]]<br /> <br /> =10th March, 2014=<br /> Timelapse of wall painting-<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o4bef_KFQts<br /> <br /> Helped sketch designs for soil mixer.<br /> <br /> Painted wall with Lauren and Cat. (timelapse video in progress)<br /> <br /> Cooked thai style fried rice for dinner.<br /> <br /> Commenced ideation for procedural animation of the GVCS in Houdini for documentation.<br /> <br /> =9th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> [[Soil Mixer Requirements]].<br /> <br /> Append design Rationale -<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_Construction_Set_Requirements<br /> <br /> Laid hay over the ground to stop mud being moved along the path.</div>

Andrew Graham https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Andrew_Graham_Log&diff=118377 2014-04-09T22:21:49Z

<p>Andrew Graham: /* 5th April, 2014 */</p> <hr /> <div>=Ideas to implement=<br /> * Create a sketchup for OSE video to show how to draw with the right accuracy, increase circle segments, use hiding, snapping etc, arcs to measure etc. also how to post the final result using the dozuki cad template<br /> * it may be possible to layout 3D objects from sketchup in free cad to be flat. it could be done dynamically using python script. this would give a proper procedural workflow for dimensioning. doing it manually isn't feasible because adjustments to sketchup files are asking for trouble. When it comes to the cam process you have to do it all over again to ensure you aren't maintaining any old incorrect parts.<br /> http://www.freecadweb.org/wiki/index.php?title=Python_scripting_tutorial<br /> * Build a workflow in Houdini to dynamically build a dxf with dimensioning and instructions for fabrication<br /> * Build a procedural animation tool to follow a spreadsheet for construction order. The result from houdini would be an open GL animation of the build of the model.<br /> * Improve wiki usability with suggested extension by Kunda<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/User_talk:Andrew_Graham<br /> <br /> =To do list=<br /> * look at stucco sprayer<br /> * get dish detergent<br /> * empty ash container.<br /> * hot water flow threshold to turn on is too high. kitchen tap needs to be turned on full for it to work.<br /> * rodent problem -thorough clean of kitchen and seal food away.<br /> * Make a sign to make sure people don't burn treated pine in the fire.<br /> <br /> timezones seem incorrect?<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/File:Soil_Pulverizer.skp<br /> <br /> =9th April, 2014=<br /> need to adjust the build process for tynes. without a flat face, even working with gravity spatter on the nut is a big problem. a more robust process is to drill a hole, then use a grinder/cutter to flatten the area. this means there is no gap where the welds takes place on the nut and using this method they stayed more free<br /> <br /> =8th April, 2014=<br /> Had a very productive build day yesterday on the soil mixer. Things of note were-<br /> Putting the lid on was a bit of a challenge. We had to oxy cut the lid down a little more. we also realised that using clamp on the bottom to rest the lid on was usefull. it was to help get the lid in position with all the other welds for the hinges that need to take place.<br /> I made a mistake by welding the Hinge struts for the cylinder as part of the outside hinges on the lid. the parts look very similar, just a little shorter. it would help if we cut a bit of a different shape in the cad for easy identification. also to make sure everything is numbered.<br /> Putting on the hinges was easier than I thought. You can actually just use clamps or bolt and nuts for each part, keeping them at the 90 degree angle as in the design. Then position them in place getting everything square and tac away. This is all synced up in Trovebox and will be added to the documentation.<br /> <br /> <br /> =5th April, 2014=<br /> one guy got a bond with PLA on his 3d printer directly onto copper at 130C. that means if it works, and im sure it could, we could buy copper sheets directly at the weight price, and print the plastic layer on the back. print the layer on the other side as a resist layer and etch away. this has some potential.<br /> http://hydraraptor.blogspot.com/2010/04/cu-pla.html<br /> <br /> Here is a concept for a self aligning QA Lip<br /> <br /> [[Image:Self Aligning QA Mount.jpg|600px]]<br /> <br /> this can be improved by inverting the wedge and having it internally.<br /> <br /> =4th April, 2014=<br /> Fixed the construction order of the bucket on the dozuki and updated the tines production process to reflect what is happening now.<br /> <br /> Had lots of problems with the wire feeder on the welder today when trying to finish the QA Lip. but we got a lot more done towards the end of the day getting most of the bucket and lip tacked in place. almost ready to start putting on the lid once those welds are finished.<br /> <br /> <br /> =2nd April, 2014=<br /> <br /> today I cut up the larger pieces of stock on the iron worker. but we had a bit of a blocker and that was 2 big pieces that need to be cut with a torch. so we couldn't continue on the main bucket apart form the side walls, but we were busy all day anyway cutting up all the other necessary parts from stock, tubing, and tacking half the teeth.<br /> <br /> I thought this was a good read<br /> <br /> http://www.thefabricator.com/article/arcwelding/22-possible-causes-of-weld-metal-porosity<br /> and this -<br /> http://www.daihen-usa.com/techtips.php<br /> <br /> The first article says porosity is necessarily a deal breaker unless its really bad or a structural requirement<br /> <br /> I learnt to day that having the angle of the tool right made a big difference at about 15 degrees off perpendicular. paint was also causing major problems, so after an initial tack i went grinding along all the seams, welded again and ground out the old bad tacks. <br /> <br /> I know Marcin didn't want us to use the grinder, but it became a necessity with the paint on the rebar that needed to be removed along the seams. I used to grind out heaps of hot water systems I used to find for scrap copper thought so i felt comfortable doing it and it was perfectly safe, I used the small grinder which I'm used to.<br /> <br /> I learnt that when tacking, if it peels a piece back in the other direction after shrinkage, that its better to tack less, just a tiny dot, so that its more malleable. then you can tack the other side more easily without breaking it and then finish with some more solid tacks.<br /> <br /> <br /> =1st April, 2014=<br /> Relocated lots of stuff in the workshop and did some cleanup. Learnt how to weld with Marcin.<br /> <br /> =31st March, 2014=<br /> Upload in progress for a you tube video showing how to produce diagrams in sketchup using scenes for dozuki.<br /> <br /> Finished the dozuki for the Soil Mixer.<br /> <br /> Found an interesting resource on hardening steel<br /> http://www.roymech.co.uk/Useful_Tables/Matter/Hardening.html<br /> <br /> =29th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> Happy birthday to me!<br /> <br /> This shows 3 channel capacitive sensing with an arduino.<br /> http://playground.arduino.cc/Main/CapacitiveSensor?from=Main.CapSense#.UzeQ0dzgg8M<br /> <br /> one thing i wonder about is interference with other objects and people around the table though. when the sense gets near the edges, this could change. i wonder if its being used for this purpose in the real world now how they deal with this issue - if it is an issue that is.<br /> <br /> if the sensor is closer to the plate, with a lower value resistor being used, then this could limit interference.<br /> <br /> using a ring or toroid will have increased sensitivity in the axis perpendicular to the ring. this is because the delta in the field is greater in this axis. good idea!<br /> http://www.agelkom.com.tr/prod02.htm<br /> <br /> you can vary pwm as cutting height is approached to get finer control and slower z speed.<br /> http://www.agelkom.com.tr/cap04_pwm_function.htm<br /> <br /> note aluminium case for shielding of circuit.<br /> http://www.cnc4pc.com/Store/osc/product_info.php?products_id=339?osCsid=9cb438690de2f645e1a951bef1ba4df8<br /> <br /> looking at the material and justins log, i like the idea of using the adafruit ultrasonic range sensor. I drew an idea for some reflector geometry to let us measure a disc pattern instead of a narrow beam.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Ultrasound_Torch_Height_Controller<br /> <br /> its clear that a capacitive solution will require totally different operation when going to a plasma cutter instead of oxy. infact, the capacitive sensor isn't even used - rather the voltage is measured between the torch and table to control height.<br /> <br /> that means two different technologies to achieve the same thing, because you need the capacitive measurement when the torch is off for the initial height.<br /> <br /> i think ultrasonic may be the way to go because it wont be affected by the two different modes of cutting. it could be cheaper, and simpler to maintain.<br /> <br /> you also need to consider height reduction after the cut commences. you could feed an isolated voltage/current measurment to tell the controlled when to drop the torch head.<br /> <br /> shielded cables are a must- some good stuff here, actually a noise reduction bible-<br /> http://www.cnccookbook.com/CCCNCNoise.html<br /> <br /> also<br /> http://www.randyray.com/tmc/rf_shielding.htm<br /> <br /> =28th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> [https://docs.google.com/drawings/d/1IMUu0otp7BRCflIRYKZ1JqR3lF3VF8OBjkPQXPQbV3A/edit created Parallel workflow diagram.] Google draw sucks though. Doesn't know how to filter images for different sizes.<br /> <br /> [http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Build_Instructions embedded this drawing into the build instructions page]<br /> <br /> Added the hinge mechanism and lid build to the dozuki for the soil mixer.<br /> <br /> =27th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> Created bunk bed design. 2 bracket pathways we need to decide on.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Bunk_Bed<br /> <br /> bunk bed specs<br /> 5'2&quot; top level for matress<br /> 1'2&quot; bottom level for matress<br /> 6'4&quot; max height<br /> <br /> moved copy from http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Fabrication_Drawings to http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Build_Instructions<br /> <br /> Setup build instructions for bucket on dozuki<br /> http://opensourceecology.dozuki.com/Guide/Installing+Soil+Mixer+-+Module+-+Bucket+The+soil+pulverizer+bucket/126?revisionid=HEAD<br /> <br /> brief discussion of using internet lines as one connection.<br /> if your going to be paying for 2 internet connections it would be good to load balance them both from one location and distribute it out from there. this would solve the problem of having large numbers of people, and since you are already paying for the second line it makes sense to do it. currently with just 10 users, 50kbit/s up is not going to cut it.<br /> <br /> running ethernet up to the micro house could be done with a switch no more than every 100 meters to boost the signal. if power is an issue power over ethernet could be used also, mentioned in this thread<br /> http://forums.whirlpool.net.au/archive/1164805<br /> <br /> so onto using two connections as one-<br /> <br /> Load balancing is easier than bonding.<br /> <br /> Bonding will double web speed for a single user with 2 internet connections. however this is unnecessary.<br /> <br /> Load balancing will not give you a maximum of 2x the speed for a single, but it will distribute traffic to each of the connections on demand if done correctly. In the real world this means with large numbers of users the web will perform just as well as in bonding. You need to make sure that with 2 connections going in that the load balancing won't just act as a failsafe - switch over to different internet connection if one fails. you want both connections to be used.<br /> <br /> http://www.increasebroadbandspeed.co.uk/what-is-adsl-load-balancing<br /> <br /> if you have a wrt54gl router this might be a good start to figuring this out.<br /> <br /> to achieve this your going to need to position those 2 adsl modems in the same location, before the load balancing hardware - router.<br /> <br /> The ISP doesn't have to know about it if you want to load balance yourself. I believe it can be done without them<br /> <br /> this guy did it with that router-<br /> http://forum.kitz.co.uk/index.php?topic=12308.msg232604#msg232604<br /> <br /> =26th March, 2014=<br /> * Measured out boards for the side rooms.<br /> * Did file format tests import into houdini.<br /> * Spoke to randy on the phone and cuts are ready for pickup. http://www.seamanschuske.com/Seaman_and_Schuske/Welcome.html<br /> <br /> It will now be possible to create a large chunk of the workflow in sketchup for documentation and build procedure. From a base model we can have in the same file procedural references for everything including<br /> *CAD layout for DXF export to CNC.<br /> *exploded view as animation<br /> *fabrication procedure as animation.<br /> *fabrication procedure frames for print manual and dozuki.<br /> <br /> what this means if the base model needs updates, all these dependencies will update too. problems are the plugin is unstable in 2014. it crashes when setting or getting states, using scenes, and also exporting .mp4 doesn't work.<br /> <br /> plan for sketchup video<br /> show dropbox sharing. show scenes, layers groups. show circles and tricks with CAD. show dxf conversion tricks and laying out in sketchup.<br /> <br /> * good sketchup video on scenes<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qEYmiKh-sqs<br /> * groups and components - make sure you know when to use which, or your file will get slow quickly.<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7V_KbxXVt0I<br /> * layers<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fBdP499iw0Y<br /> *speed enhancements<br /> https://sites.google.com/site/sketchupsage/faster<br /> <br /> *dynamic components - pro only<br /> http://help.sketchup.com/en/article/94885<br /> <br /> *plugins<br /> http://sketchucation.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=10&amp;t=36583&amp;p=322249&amp;hilit=+add+hidden+layer+#p322249<br /> <br /> Thinks like the tunes on the rototiller, or grid beam should be designated in sketchup as dynamic components. building them in other software throws away the procedural abitiy of other software, or adding complexity to do it through other plugins to enable software like freecad or open scad.<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;html&gt;&lt;script type=&quot;text/javascript&quot;<br /> data-dozuki-embed='3'<br /> src=&quot;http://d1luk0418egahw.cloudfront.net/static/embed/ifixit-embed.3.js#id=130&amp;site=opensourceecology.dozuki.com&quot;&gt;<br /> &lt;/script&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://opensourceecology.dozuki.com/Guide/Installing+Soil+Mixer+-+Module+-+Toothbar+Teeth/130&quot;&gt;Installing Soil Mixer - Module - Toothbar Teeth&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/html&gt;<br /> <br /> =25th March, 2014=<br /> *updated fabrication procedure text for marcin to review. updated exploded parts diagram and CAM layout numbering. <br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Fabrication_Drawings<br /> *added washers into sketchup file<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_3D_CAD<br /> <br /> *fixed p29 length in cam files to accomodate washers in the hinges<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_CAM<br /> <br /> *Updated cam files protocol<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/CAM_Files_Protocol#Other_Resources<br /> <br /> Note: A lot of time seems to be lost when design changes are made and dependent files on the sketchup such as the dxf, images on the wiki, and wiki uploads to keep everything current need to take place. potentially a more desirable solution would be to have the ability to synchronize all these changes at once.<br /> <br /> =24th March, 2014=<br /> [http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_CAM Updated DXF to send to seaman schuske - Randy Clinton]<br /> *increased the diameter by 1/16th on all the holes except the quick attach mount, and the 3 ground plates because they are already oversized to .625&quot;<br /> <br /> [http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_3D_CAD Updated 3D CAD Sketchup file for exploded diagram and DXF generation]<br /> <br /> <br /> [http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Exploded_Parts_Diagram Updated exploded parts diagram]<br /> <br /> *Updated fabrication diagram text.<br /> <br /> =21th March, 2014=<br /> *Updated exploded view and part numbering.<br /> [[Image:ExplodedView.jpg|400px]]<br /> <br /> *Updated CAM and CAD. Removed extra lines from CAM. fixed radius on motor holes, removed extra motor holes for bolt.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_3D_CAD<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_CAM<br /> <br /> *Added 2nd coat of lime wash to second last room.<br /> *Anthony added first coat of lime wash to last room.<br /> <br /> =20th March, 2014=<br /> *bearing spec for bolt holes is incorrect - should be .625 - http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/File:Bearing178.jpg<br /> *needed to add 4 extra holes into the sidewall<br /> *tested internet, and its not going to be fast enough for a large group of people. good for a few people, up to 4 maybe.<br /> *[http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Exploded_Parts_Diagram Added exploded parts diagram]<br /> *Rubbed out walls in last 2 east rooms. Moved the big glass sheets into the silo. Prepped whitewash and applied into the second last room.<br /> <br /> =19th March, 2014=<br /> *fixed a wheelbarrow axel by replacing the pin and putting 3 large washers on there. After pumping up the tires it'll be good as new.<br /> *mixxed approx 5 shovels of sand to 4-5 shovels of very clayey soil to plaster the window and door on the outside room. this took a lot longer than anticipated to do the job well. plastering on top of the window and door frame required almost 100% clay just to stick, I'm wondering if it will crack but it was the only way it would stick on there even with the wire mesh.<br /> *used sprayer and a damp cloth to smooth out the walls to prep for limewash<br /> *Added suggested ratio to lime wash and plaster ratio suggestion.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Lime_Plaster_and_Wash#BoM<br /> *[http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasertoc.htm came across a sweet link from anthony to make your own laser - laser sam]<br /> <br /> =18th March, 2014=<br /> Uploaded timelapse videos<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kMBSe5V7M8E<br /> <br /> Updated sketchup file to reposition the holes for the mounts. some inaccuracies were present in the components attaching to the shaft.<br /> <br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_3D_CAD<br /> <br /> sketchup note: when creating circles, you must go to window, entity info, chad change the segments from 24 to 48. most circles look like ploys other wise and this will follow through to the machine file.<br /> <br /> Moved everything from the outer rooms into office and silo. took a while because there was a lot of sorting. some things needed to be inside. <br /> <br /> applied lime wash to a wall in the middle room. tomorrow need to smooth out the rendering with a rag. also staple chicken air and get sand from micro house.<br /> <br /> tommorrow - fix sheets and dimensions. get a quote from Justin Fuston<br /> https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0ArpE5Y9PpJCXdGpUZ3dqYWw3czQzZ09IUHFpRl9VT1E#gid=0<br /> <br /> =17th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> Updated CAD. Chamfered corners, removed excess hinge parts, rotated struts 90 degrees. added gussets, but now they may not be necessary with the struts at 90 degrees. easy to remove. stacking of the hinge components around the hydraulic mechanism has been changed for better strength and ease of construction.<br /> <br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_3D_CAD<br /> <br /> This has been fixed. see video! you just need to clear the prefs.<br /> &lt;strike&gt;I also submitted a complaint to google, sketch up 2014 eliminated features in the free version of 2013 so that you have to pay for them. It's no longer possible to export to 3DS and most other pro formats now.&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> <br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A9TdFNZwLtc&amp;feature=em-upload_owner<br /> <br /> &lt;html&gt;<br /> &lt;iframe width=&quot;560&quot; height=&quot;315&quot; src=&quot;//www.youtube.com/embed/A9TdFNZwLtc&quot; frameborder=&quot;0&quot; allowfullscreen&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;<br /> &lt;/html&gt;<br /> <br /> Microhouse-<br /> - Painted walls with white.<br /> <br /> - Moved weights into the silo.<br /> <br /> - prepped lime in 1 to one in the white container.<br /> <br /> =16th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> Added dhal to recipes-<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Recipes<br /> <br /> Fixed vacuum cleaner.<br /> <br /> Setup DIY mouse trap design to drown rodents.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Mouse_trap<br /> <br /> =15th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> Recipe for Dahl. For 8 people.<br /> Awesome vegetarian power food high in protein.<br /> <br /> 4 onions.<br /> <br /> half a bulb of garlic<br /> <br /> 1.5kg lentils or split peas, soaked for as long as you can during the day, overnight if possible. if not, it will just take longer to cook but it works out fine. rinse them thoroughly!<br /> <br /> Coconut oil<br /> <br /> teaspoon whole cumin seeds<br /> <br /> cumin powder<br /> <br /> garam masala<br /> <br /> salt<br /> <br /> pepper<br /> <br /> chilli or cayenne pepper<br /> <br /> turmeric<br /> <br /> sour cream and cilantro for garnish.<br /> <br /> heat the oil and keep an eye on it so it doesn't smoke.<br /> fry the cumin seeds for a bit then add the onions and garlic on high. when the onions are clear to brown colour add 1/2 teaspoons of the rest of the spices and the lentils. add water to the pot until the lentils are just covered.<br /> keep on high heat until it starts to boil, then simmer until the lentils are soft/falling apart. this usually takes an hour.<br /> add to bowls and garnish with the cilantro and sour cream!<br /> <br /> <br /> -------<br /> <br /> <br /> Added large grain sand and clay mix to top right corner of hablab. when dried we added mist and then lime wash. it may need another layer.<br /> <br /> Painted the outside door frames yellow.<br /> <br /> Modifications added to http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Review<br /> <br /> Current design revisions-<br /> <br /> 1. Long reinforcement on edge of lid - 1/4 x 2. Current reinforcement needs to be rotated 90 degrees.<br /> <br /> 2. Centre the cylinder mount, add an extra strut for symmetry.<br /> <br /> 3. gusset 1/2&quot; x 4&quot; triangle on the rod end mount<br /> <br /> 4. 45 degrees angle on outside hinge to lip mount.<br /> <br /> =14th March, 2014=<br /> tomatoe varieties for OSE - <br /> jetstart<br /> homestead,<br /> bhn 1021<br /> defiant phr<br /> <br /> setting out planting guide for kansas city<br /> http://www.almanac.com/gardening/planting-dates/zipcode/64151<br /> <br /> =13th March, 2014=<br /> Updated cad file and range of motion. Added hinges and correct thicknesses.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_3D_CAD<br /> <br /> [[Image:sketchupModel.png|400px]]<br /> <br /> Collaboration notes: setting up remote collaboration for the design process in solid works can be aided by a synchronized web folder to users local paths. drop box achieves this but has a size limit. we need software that can do that locally to a raid array with offsite backup. Eric Potash suggested aero fs https://www.aerofs.com<br /> We also have http://www.bittorrent.com/sync which looks very promising with redundancy and http://owncloud.org<br /> <br /> Lime wash<br /> <br /> Determined that the 4 parts lime/3 parts water then salt added (salt is 1/5th the lime amount by volume, not weight) is a good mix provided the surface is smooth. On a rough surface this mix is too thick. If the mix is too thick it can crack due to shrinkage after drying.<br /> For a rough surface, this mix instead works - 1 part lime / 1 part water by volume, with salt being the same ratio as before - 1/5th the amount of lime by volume.<br /> It isn't necessary to mix the salt with more water prior to mixing with a drill in both these recipes. this was done on previous days to help mix more evenly, but these mixes are both watery enough to not worry about this.<br /> <br /> Pre misting the area before applying the lime wash prevents cracking significantly. This is done by lightly misting so the soil looks darkened and damp, but not soaking wet which affects the bond negatively. Waiting a while to see it dry a little (~30 seconds) and repeating this 4 or 5 times helps create a deeper bond into to adobe wall when the lime wash is applied.<br /> <br /> Hard synthetic brushes are ok to use only on smoothly rendered stucco, but on mud stucco these can be too abrasive and affect application. softer brushes like the thick ones we use from horse hair apply the mix really smoothly and work really well on both types of surfaces.<br /> <br /> [[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tgDarFYW7hk 4/3 mix failing in divots]]<br /> [[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QrqwRHOAA8s testing with spray]]<br /> <br /> For filling holes with earth plaster, Chris also added that they had success when mixing coarse grain sand with the clayey soil 3/1 and that there was no shrinkage problems when filling holes. they mixed it with their hands. they also sprayed the wall which helped.<br /> <br /> 3D Printer that Coulton fixed!<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MH_0sHNAd9w<br /> <br /> =12th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> *3D range of motion test for hydraulic cylinder.<br /> *http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Opening_Mechanism_Module_-_Calculations<br /> *http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/File:RangeOfMotion.png<br /> *http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Opening_Mechanism_Module_-_Bill_of_Materials<br /> *Hablab whitewash testing - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BiA1LRERXjU&amp;list=UU0Jra6oMPLejbnPr4bzxdpg<br /> <br /> Determined that thick 2 to 1 lime/water ratio is too thick and cracks in some areas. Prepping with misting the adobe layer before limewashing definitely reduces cracking.<br /> We are also testing two recipes for tomorrow. One that is 4/3 Lime/water. The other that is 1/1. We will test both of these to see which works better.<br /> <br /> <br /> =11th March, 2014=<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KjADHmrkFy4<br /> <br /> Tested different whitewash formula. it appeared that thick lime wash was less tolerant of some areas of the wall and was peeling back at some points after some time had passed. We applied a thin whitewash with the consistency of cream or milk at the end to different parts of the wall to see if we could avoid the peeling problem.<br /> <br /> Drew the clamshell mechanism and hinge in sketch up for the Soil Mixer.<br /> <br /> Screenshot<br /> [[Image:WIPsoild_mixer_and_lid.png|200px]]<br /> <br /> <br /> Sketchup in progress<br /> [[File:SoilPulverizerV1s001.skp]]<br /> <br /> =10th March, 2014=<br /> Timelapse of wall painting-<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o4bef_KFQts<br /> <br /> Helped sketch designs for soil mixer.<br /> <br /> Painted wall with Lauren and Cat. (timelapse video in progress)<br /> <br /> Cooked thai style fried rice for dinner.<br /> <br /> Commenced ideation for procedural animation of the GVCS in Houdini for documentation.<br /> <br /> =9th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> [[Soil Mixer Requirements]].<br /> <br /> Append design Rationale -<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_Construction_Set_Requirements<br /> <br /> Laid hay over the ground to stop mud being moved along the path.</div>

Andrew Graham https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Andrew_Graham_Log&diff=118354 2014-04-09T14:15:59Z

<p>Andrew Graham: </p> <hr /> <div>=Ideas to implement=<br /> * Create a sketchup for OSE video to show how to draw with the right accuracy, increase circle segments, use hiding, snapping etc, arcs to measure etc. also how to post the final result using the dozuki cad template<br /> * it may be possible to layout 3D objects from sketchup in free cad to be flat. it could be done dynamically using python script. this would give a proper procedural workflow for dimensioning. doing it manually isn't feasible because adjustments to sketchup files are asking for trouble. When it comes to the cam process you have to do it all over again to ensure you aren't maintaining any old incorrect parts.<br /> http://www.freecadweb.org/wiki/index.php?title=Python_scripting_tutorial<br /> * Build a workflow in Houdini to dynamically build a dxf with dimensioning and instructions for fabrication<br /> * Build a procedural animation tool to follow a spreadsheet for construction order. The result from houdini would be an open GL animation of the build of the model.<br /> * Improve wiki usability with suggested extension by Kunda<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/User_talk:Andrew_Graham<br /> <br /> =To do list=<br /> * look at stucco sprayer<br /> * get dish detergent<br /> * empty ash container.<br /> * hot water flow threshold to turn on is too high. kitchen tap needs to be turned on full for it to work.<br /> * rodent problem -thorough clean of kitchen and seal food away.<br /> * Make a sign to make sure people don't burn treated pine in the fire.<br /> <br /> timezones seem incorrect?<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/File:Soil_Pulverizer.skp<br /> <br /> =9th April, 2014=<br /> need to adjust the build process for tynes. without a flat face, even working with gravity spatter on the nut is a big problem. a more robust process is to drill a hole, then use a grinder/cutter to flatten the area. this means there is no gap where the welds takes place on the nut and using this method they stayed more free<br /> <br /> =8th April, 2014=<br /> Had a very productive build day yesterday on the soil mixer. Things of note were-<br /> Putting the lid on was a bit of a challenge. We had to oxy cut the lid down a little more. we also realised that using clamp on the bottom to rest the lid on was usefull. it was to help get the lid in position with all the other welds for the hinges that need to take place.<br /> I made a mistake by welding the Hinge struts for the cylinder as part of the outside hinges on the lid. the parts look very similar, just a little shorter. it would help if we cut a bit of a different shape in the cad for easy identification. also to make sure everything is numbered.<br /> Putting on the hinges was easier than I thought. You can actually just use clamps or bolt and nuts for each part, keeping them at the 90 degree angle as in the design. Then position them in place getting everything square and tac away. This is all synced up in Trovebox and will be added to the documentation.<br /> <br /> <br /> =5th April, 2014=<br /> one guy got a bond with PLA on his 3d printer directly onto copper at 130C. that means if it works, and im sure it could, we could buy copper sheets directly at the weight price, and print the plastic layer on the back. print the layer on the other side as a resist layer and etch away. this has some potential.<br /> http://hydraraptor.blogspot.com/2010/04/cu-pla.html<br /> <br /> Here is a concept for a self aligning QA Lip<br /> <br /> [[Image:Self Aligning QA Mount.jpg|600px]]<br /> <br /> =4th April, 2014=<br /> Fixed the construction order of the bucket on the dozuki and updated the tines production process to reflect what is happening now.<br /> <br /> Had lots of problems with the wire feeder on the welder today when trying to finish the QA Lip. but we got a lot more done towards the end of the day getting most of the bucket and lip tacked in place. almost ready to start putting on the lid once those welds are finished.<br /> <br /> <br /> =2nd April, 2014=<br /> <br /> today I cut up the larger pieces of stock on the iron worker. but we had a bit of a blocker and that was 2 big pieces that need to be cut with a torch. so we couldn't continue on the main bucket apart form the side walls, but we were busy all day anyway cutting up all the other necessary parts from stock, tubing, and tacking half the teeth.<br /> <br /> I thought this was a good read<br /> <br /> http://www.thefabricator.com/article/arcwelding/22-possible-causes-of-weld-metal-porosity<br /> and this -<br /> http://www.daihen-usa.com/techtips.php<br /> <br /> The first article says porosity is necessarily a deal breaker unless its really bad or a structural requirement<br /> <br /> I learnt to day that having the angle of the tool right made a big difference at about 15 degrees off perpendicular. paint was also causing major problems, so after an initial tack i went grinding along all the seams, welded again and ground out the old bad tacks. <br /> <br /> I know Marcin didn't want us to use the grinder, but it became a necessity with the paint on the rebar that needed to be removed along the seams. I used to grind out heaps of hot water systems I used to find for scrap copper thought so i felt comfortable doing it and it was perfectly safe, I used the small grinder which I'm used to.<br /> <br /> I learnt that when tacking, if it peels a piece back in the other direction after shrinkage, that its better to tack less, just a tiny dot, so that its more malleable. then you can tack the other side more easily without breaking it and then finish with some more solid tacks.<br /> <br /> <br /> =1st April, 2014=<br /> Relocated lots of stuff in the workshop and did some cleanup. Learnt how to weld with Marcin.<br /> <br /> =31st March, 2014=<br /> Upload in progress for a you tube video showing how to produce diagrams in sketchup using scenes for dozuki.<br /> <br /> Finished the dozuki for the Soil Mixer.<br /> <br /> Found an interesting resource on hardening steel<br /> http://www.roymech.co.uk/Useful_Tables/Matter/Hardening.html<br /> <br /> =29th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> Happy birthday to me!<br /> <br /> This shows 3 channel capacitive sensing with an arduino.<br /> http://playground.arduino.cc/Main/CapacitiveSensor?from=Main.CapSense#.UzeQ0dzgg8M<br /> <br /> one thing i wonder about is interference with other objects and people around the table though. when the sense gets near the edges, this could change. i wonder if its being used for this purpose in the real world now how they deal with this issue - if it is an issue that is.<br /> <br /> if the sensor is closer to the plate, with a lower value resistor being used, then this could limit interference.<br /> <br /> using a ring or toroid will have increased sensitivity in the axis perpendicular to the ring. this is because the delta in the field is greater in this axis. good idea!<br /> http://www.agelkom.com.tr/prod02.htm<br /> <br /> you can vary pwm as cutting height is approached to get finer control and slower z speed.<br /> http://www.agelkom.com.tr/cap04_pwm_function.htm<br /> <br /> note aluminium case for shielding of circuit.<br /> http://www.cnc4pc.com/Store/osc/product_info.php?products_id=339?osCsid=9cb438690de2f645e1a951bef1ba4df8<br /> <br /> looking at the material and justins log, i like the idea of using the adafruit ultrasonic range sensor. I drew an idea for some reflector geometry to let us measure a disc pattern instead of a narrow beam.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Ultrasound_Torch_Height_Controller<br /> <br /> its clear that a capacitive solution will require totally different operation when going to a plasma cutter instead of oxy. infact, the capacitive sensor isn't even used - rather the voltage is measured between the torch and table to control height.<br /> <br /> that means two different technologies to achieve the same thing, because you need the capacitive measurement when the torch is off for the initial height.<br /> <br /> i think ultrasonic may be the way to go because it wont be affected by the two different modes of cutting. it could be cheaper, and simpler to maintain.<br /> <br /> you also need to consider height reduction after the cut commences. you could feed an isolated voltage/current measurment to tell the controlled when to drop the torch head.<br /> <br /> shielded cables are a must- some good stuff here, actually a noise reduction bible-<br /> http://www.cnccookbook.com/CCCNCNoise.html<br /> <br /> also<br /> http://www.randyray.com/tmc/rf_shielding.htm<br /> <br /> =28th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> [https://docs.google.com/drawings/d/1IMUu0otp7BRCflIRYKZ1JqR3lF3VF8OBjkPQXPQbV3A/edit created Parallel workflow diagram.] Google draw sucks though. Doesn't know how to filter images for different sizes.<br /> <br /> [http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Build_Instructions embedded this drawing into the build instructions page]<br /> <br /> Added the hinge mechanism and lid build to the dozuki for the soil mixer.<br /> <br /> =27th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> Created bunk bed design. 2 bracket pathways we need to decide on.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Bunk_Bed<br /> <br /> bunk bed specs<br /> 5'2&quot; top level for matress<br /> 1'2&quot; bottom level for matress<br /> 6'4&quot; max height<br /> <br /> moved copy from http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Fabrication_Drawings to http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Build_Instructions<br /> <br /> Setup build instructions for bucket on dozuki<br /> http://opensourceecology.dozuki.com/Guide/Installing+Soil+Mixer+-+Module+-+Bucket+The+soil+pulverizer+bucket/126?revisionid=HEAD<br /> <br /> brief discussion of using internet lines as one connection.<br /> if your going to be paying for 2 internet connections it would be good to load balance them both from one location and distribute it out from there. this would solve the problem of having large numbers of people, and since you are already paying for the second line it makes sense to do it. currently with just 10 users, 50kbit/s up is not going to cut it.<br /> <br /> running ethernet up to the micro house could be done with a switch no more than every 100 meters to boost the signal. if power is an issue power over ethernet could be used also, mentioned in this thread<br /> http://forums.whirlpool.net.au/archive/1164805<br /> <br /> so onto using two connections as one-<br /> <br /> Load balancing is easier than bonding.<br /> <br /> Bonding will double web speed for a single user with 2 internet connections. however this is unnecessary.<br /> <br /> Load balancing will not give you a maximum of 2x the speed for a single, but it will distribute traffic to each of the connections on demand if done correctly. In the real world this means with large numbers of users the web will perform just as well as in bonding. You need to make sure that with 2 connections going in that the load balancing won't just act as a failsafe - switch over to different internet connection if one fails. you want both connections to be used.<br /> <br /> http://www.increasebroadbandspeed.co.uk/what-is-adsl-load-balancing<br /> <br /> if you have a wrt54gl router this might be a good start to figuring this out.<br /> <br /> to achieve this your going to need to position those 2 adsl modems in the same location, before the load balancing hardware - router.<br /> <br /> The ISP doesn't have to know about it if you want to load balance yourself. I believe it can be done without them<br /> <br /> this guy did it with that router-<br /> http://forum.kitz.co.uk/index.php?topic=12308.msg232604#msg232604<br /> <br /> =26th March, 2014=<br /> * Measured out boards for the side rooms.<br /> * Did file format tests import into houdini.<br /> * Spoke to randy on the phone and cuts are ready for pickup. http://www.seamanschuske.com/Seaman_and_Schuske/Welcome.html<br /> <br /> It will now be possible to create a large chunk of the workflow in sketchup for documentation and build procedure. From a base model we can have in the same file procedural references for everything including<br /> *CAD layout for DXF export to CNC.<br /> *exploded view as animation<br /> *fabrication procedure as animation.<br /> *fabrication procedure frames for print manual and dozuki.<br /> <br /> what this means if the base model needs updates, all these dependencies will update too. problems are the plugin is unstable in 2014. it crashes when setting or getting states, using scenes, and also exporting .mp4 doesn't work.<br /> <br /> plan for sketchup video<br /> show dropbox sharing. show scenes, layers groups. show circles and tricks with CAD. show dxf conversion tricks and laying out in sketchup.<br /> <br /> * good sketchup video on scenes<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qEYmiKh-sqs<br /> * groups and components - make sure you know when to use which, or your file will get slow quickly.<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7V_KbxXVt0I<br /> * layers<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fBdP499iw0Y<br /> *speed enhancements<br /> https://sites.google.com/site/sketchupsage/faster<br /> <br /> *dynamic components - pro only<br /> http://help.sketchup.com/en/article/94885<br /> <br /> *plugins<br /> http://sketchucation.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=10&amp;t=36583&amp;p=322249&amp;hilit=+add+hidden+layer+#p322249<br /> <br /> Thinks like the tunes on the rototiller, or grid beam should be designated in sketchup as dynamic components. building them in other software throws away the procedural abitiy of other software, or adding complexity to do it through other plugins to enable software like freecad or open scad.<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;html&gt;&lt;script type=&quot;text/javascript&quot;<br /> data-dozuki-embed='3'<br /> src=&quot;http://d1luk0418egahw.cloudfront.net/static/embed/ifixit-embed.3.js#id=130&amp;site=opensourceecology.dozuki.com&quot;&gt;<br /> &lt;/script&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://opensourceecology.dozuki.com/Guide/Installing+Soil+Mixer+-+Module+-+Toothbar+Teeth/130&quot;&gt;Installing Soil Mixer - Module - Toothbar Teeth&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/html&gt;<br /> <br /> =25th March, 2014=<br /> *updated fabrication procedure text for marcin to review. updated exploded parts diagram and CAM layout numbering. <br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Fabrication_Drawings<br /> *added washers into sketchup file<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_3D_CAD<br /> <br /> *fixed p29 length in cam files to accomodate washers in the hinges<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_CAM<br /> <br /> *Updated cam files protocol<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/CAM_Files_Protocol#Other_Resources<br /> <br /> Note: A lot of time seems to be lost when design changes are made and dependent files on the sketchup such as the dxf, images on the wiki, and wiki uploads to keep everything current need to take place. potentially a more desirable solution would be to have the ability to synchronize all these changes at once.<br /> <br /> =24th March, 2014=<br /> [http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_CAM Updated DXF to send to seaman schuske - Randy Clinton]<br /> *increased the diameter by 1/16th on all the holes except the quick attach mount, and the 3 ground plates because they are already oversized to .625&quot;<br /> <br /> [http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_3D_CAD Updated 3D CAD Sketchup file for exploded diagram and DXF generation]<br /> <br /> <br /> [http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Exploded_Parts_Diagram Updated exploded parts diagram]<br /> <br /> *Updated fabrication diagram text.<br /> <br /> =21th March, 2014=<br /> *Updated exploded view and part numbering.<br /> [[Image:ExplodedView.jpg|400px]]<br /> <br /> *Updated CAM and CAD. Removed extra lines from CAM. fixed radius on motor holes, removed extra motor holes for bolt.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_3D_CAD<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_CAM<br /> <br /> *Added 2nd coat of lime wash to second last room.<br /> *Anthony added first coat of lime wash to last room.<br /> <br /> =20th March, 2014=<br /> *bearing spec for bolt holes is incorrect - should be .625 - http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/File:Bearing178.jpg<br /> *needed to add 4 extra holes into the sidewall<br /> *tested internet, and its not going to be fast enough for a large group of people. good for a few people, up to 4 maybe.<br /> *[http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Exploded_Parts_Diagram Added exploded parts diagram]<br /> *Rubbed out walls in last 2 east rooms. Moved the big glass sheets into the silo. Prepped whitewash and applied into the second last room.<br /> <br /> =19th March, 2014=<br /> *fixed a wheelbarrow axel by replacing the pin and putting 3 large washers on there. After pumping up the tires it'll be good as new.<br /> *mixxed approx 5 shovels of sand to 4-5 shovels of very clayey soil to plaster the window and door on the outside room. this took a lot longer than anticipated to do the job well. plastering on top of the window and door frame required almost 100% clay just to stick, I'm wondering if it will crack but it was the only way it would stick on there even with the wire mesh.<br /> *used sprayer and a damp cloth to smooth out the walls to prep for limewash<br /> *Added suggested ratio to lime wash and plaster ratio suggestion.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Lime_Plaster_and_Wash#BoM<br /> *[http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasertoc.htm came across a sweet link from anthony to make your own laser - laser sam]<br /> <br /> =18th March, 2014=<br /> Uploaded timelapse videos<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kMBSe5V7M8E<br /> <br /> Updated sketchup file to reposition the holes for the mounts. some inaccuracies were present in the components attaching to the shaft.<br /> <br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_3D_CAD<br /> <br /> sketchup note: when creating circles, you must go to window, entity info, chad change the segments from 24 to 48. most circles look like ploys other wise and this will follow through to the machine file.<br /> <br /> Moved everything from the outer rooms into office and silo. took a while because there was a lot of sorting. some things needed to be inside. <br /> <br /> applied lime wash to a wall in the middle room. tomorrow need to smooth out the rendering with a rag. also staple chicken air and get sand from micro house.<br /> <br /> tommorrow - fix sheets and dimensions. get a quote from Justin Fuston<br /> https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0ArpE5Y9PpJCXdGpUZ3dqYWw3czQzZ09IUHFpRl9VT1E#gid=0<br /> <br /> =17th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> Updated CAD. Chamfered corners, removed excess hinge parts, rotated struts 90 degrees. added gussets, but now they may not be necessary with the struts at 90 degrees. easy to remove. stacking of the hinge components around the hydraulic mechanism has been changed for better strength and ease of construction.<br /> <br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_3D_CAD<br /> <br /> This has been fixed. see video! you just need to clear the prefs.<br /> &lt;strike&gt;I also submitted a complaint to google, sketch up 2014 eliminated features in the free version of 2013 so that you have to pay for them. It's no longer possible to export to 3DS and most other pro formats now.&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> <br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A9TdFNZwLtc&amp;feature=em-upload_owner<br /> <br /> &lt;html&gt;<br /> &lt;iframe width=&quot;560&quot; height=&quot;315&quot; src=&quot;//www.youtube.com/embed/A9TdFNZwLtc&quot; frameborder=&quot;0&quot; allowfullscreen&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;<br /> &lt;/html&gt;<br /> <br /> Microhouse-<br /> - Painted walls with white.<br /> <br /> - Moved weights into the silo.<br /> <br /> - prepped lime in 1 to one in the white container.<br /> <br /> =16th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> Added dhal to recipes-<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Recipes<br /> <br /> Fixed vacuum cleaner.<br /> <br /> Setup DIY mouse trap design to drown rodents.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Mouse_trap<br /> <br /> =15th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> Recipe for Dahl. For 8 people.<br /> Awesome vegetarian power food high in protein.<br /> <br /> 4 onions.<br /> <br /> half a bulb of garlic<br /> <br /> 1.5kg lentils or split peas, soaked for as long as you can during the day, overnight if possible. if not, it will just take longer to cook but it works out fine. rinse them thoroughly!<br /> <br /> Coconut oil<br /> <br /> teaspoon whole cumin seeds<br /> <br /> cumin powder<br /> <br /> garam masala<br /> <br /> salt<br /> <br /> pepper<br /> <br /> chilli or cayenne pepper<br /> <br /> turmeric<br /> <br /> sour cream and cilantro for garnish.<br /> <br /> heat the oil and keep an eye on it so it doesn't smoke.<br /> fry the cumin seeds for a bit then add the onions and garlic on high. when the onions are clear to brown colour add 1/2 teaspoons of the rest of the spices and the lentils. add water to the pot until the lentils are just covered.<br /> keep on high heat until it starts to boil, then simmer until the lentils are soft/falling apart. this usually takes an hour.<br /> add to bowls and garnish with the cilantro and sour cream!<br /> <br /> <br /> -------<br /> <br /> <br /> Added large grain sand and clay mix to top right corner of hablab. when dried we added mist and then lime wash. it may need another layer.<br /> <br /> Painted the outside door frames yellow.<br /> <br /> Modifications added to http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Review<br /> <br /> Current design revisions-<br /> <br /> 1. Long reinforcement on edge of lid - 1/4 x 2. Current reinforcement needs to be rotated 90 degrees.<br /> <br /> 2. Centre the cylinder mount, add an extra strut for symmetry.<br /> <br /> 3. gusset 1/2&quot; x 4&quot; triangle on the rod end mount<br /> <br /> 4. 45 degrees angle on outside hinge to lip mount.<br /> <br /> =14th March, 2014=<br /> tomatoe varieties for OSE - <br /> jetstart<br /> homestead,<br /> bhn 1021<br /> defiant phr<br /> <br /> setting out planting guide for kansas city<br /> http://www.almanac.com/gardening/planting-dates/zipcode/64151<br /> <br /> =13th March, 2014=<br /> Updated cad file and range of motion. Added hinges and correct thicknesses.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_3D_CAD<br /> <br /> [[Image:sketchupModel.png|400px]]<br /> <br /> Collaboration notes: setting up remote collaboration for the design process in solid works can be aided by a synchronized web folder to users local paths. drop box achieves this but has a size limit. we need software that can do that locally to a raid array with offsite backup. Eric Potash suggested aero fs https://www.aerofs.com<br /> We also have http://www.bittorrent.com/sync which looks very promising with redundancy and http://owncloud.org<br /> <br /> Lime wash<br /> <br /> Determined that the 4 parts lime/3 parts water then salt added (salt is 1/5th the lime amount by volume, not weight) is a good mix provided the surface is smooth. On a rough surface this mix is too thick. If the mix is too thick it can crack due to shrinkage after drying.<br /> For a rough surface, this mix instead works - 1 part lime / 1 part water by volume, with salt being the same ratio as before - 1/5th the amount of lime by volume.<br /> It isn't necessary to mix the salt with more water prior to mixing with a drill in both these recipes. this was done on previous days to help mix more evenly, but these mixes are both watery enough to not worry about this.<br /> <br /> Pre misting the area before applying the lime wash prevents cracking significantly. This is done by lightly misting so the soil looks darkened and damp, but not soaking wet which affects the bond negatively. Waiting a while to see it dry a little (~30 seconds) and repeating this 4 or 5 times helps create a deeper bond into to adobe wall when the lime wash is applied.<br /> <br /> Hard synthetic brushes are ok to use only on smoothly rendered stucco, but on mud stucco these can be too abrasive and affect application. softer brushes like the thick ones we use from horse hair apply the mix really smoothly and work really well on both types of surfaces.<br /> <br /> [[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tgDarFYW7hk 4/3 mix failing in divots]]<br /> [[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QrqwRHOAA8s testing with spray]]<br /> <br /> For filling holes with earth plaster, Chris also added that they had success when mixing coarse grain sand with the clayey soil 3/1 and that there was no shrinkage problems when filling holes. they mixed it with their hands. they also sprayed the wall which helped.<br /> <br /> 3D Printer that Coulton fixed!<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MH_0sHNAd9w<br /> <br /> =12th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> *3D range of motion test for hydraulic cylinder.<br /> *http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Opening_Mechanism_Module_-_Calculations<br /> *http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/File:RangeOfMotion.png<br /> *http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Opening_Mechanism_Module_-_Bill_of_Materials<br /> *Hablab whitewash testing - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BiA1LRERXjU&amp;list=UU0Jra6oMPLejbnPr4bzxdpg<br /> <br /> Determined that thick 2 to 1 lime/water ratio is too thick and cracks in some areas. Prepping with misting the adobe layer before limewashing definitely reduces cracking.<br /> We are also testing two recipes for tomorrow. One that is 4/3 Lime/water. The other that is 1/1. We will test both of these to see which works better.<br /> <br /> <br /> =11th March, 2014=<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KjADHmrkFy4<br /> <br /> Tested different whitewash formula. it appeared that thick lime wash was less tolerant of some areas of the wall and was peeling back at some points after some time had passed. We applied a thin whitewash with the consistency of cream or milk at the end to different parts of the wall to see if we could avoid the peeling problem.<br /> <br /> Drew the clamshell mechanism and hinge in sketch up for the Soil Mixer.<br /> <br /> Screenshot<br /> [[Image:WIPsoild_mixer_and_lid.png|200px]]<br /> <br /> <br /> Sketchup in progress<br /> [[File:SoilPulverizerV1s001.skp]]<br /> <br /> =10th March, 2014=<br /> Timelapse of wall painting-<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o4bef_KFQts<br /> <br /> Helped sketch designs for soil mixer.<br /> <br /> Painted wall with Lauren and Cat. (timelapse video in progress)<br /> <br /> Cooked thai style fried rice for dinner.<br /> <br /> Commenced ideation for procedural animation of the GVCS in Houdini for documentation.<br /> <br /> =9th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> [[Soil Mixer Requirements]].<br /> <br /> Append design Rationale -<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_Construction_Set_Requirements<br /> <br /> Laid hay over the ground to stop mud being moved along the path.</div>

Andrew Graham https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=File:Soil_Pulverizer.skp&diff=118320 2014-04-08T15:17:21Z

<p>Andrew Graham: Andrew Graham uploaded a new version of &amp;quot;File:Soil Pulverizer.skp&amp;quot;</p> <hr /> <div>Sketchup file as of march 13, 2014.</div>

Andrew Graham https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Andrew_Graham_Log&diff=118315 2014-04-08T14:25:54Z

<p>Andrew Graham: </p> <hr /> <div>=Ideas to implement=<br /> * Create a sketchup for OSE video to show how to draw with the right accuracy, increase circle segments, use hiding, snapping etc, arcs to measure etc. also how to post the final result using the dozuki cad template<br /> * it may be possible to layout 3D objects from sketchup in free cad to be flat. it could be done dynamically using python script. this would give a proper procedural workflow for dimensioning. doing it manually isn't feasible because adjustments to sketchup files are asking for trouble. When it comes to the cam process you have to do it all over again to ensure you aren't maintaining any old incorrect parts.<br /> http://www.freecadweb.org/wiki/index.php?title=Python_scripting_tutorial<br /> * Build a workflow in Houdini to dynamically build a dxf with dimensioning and instructions for fabrication<br /> * Build a procedural animation tool to follow a spreadsheet for construction order. The result from houdini would be an open GL animation of the build of the model.<br /> * Improve wiki usability with suggested extension by Kunda<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/User_talk:Andrew_Graham<br /> <br /> =To do list=<br /> * look at stucco sprayer<br /> * get dish detergent<br /> * empty ash container.<br /> * hot water flow threshold to turn on is too high. kitchen tap needs to be turned on full for it to work.<br /> * rodent problem -thorough clean of kitchen and seal food away.<br /> * Make a sign to make sure people don't burn treated pine in the fire.<br /> <br /> timezones seem incorrect?<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/File:Soil_Pulverizer.skp<br /> <br /> =8th April, 2014=<br /> Had a very productive build day yesterday on the soil mixer. Things of note were-<br /> Putting the lid on was a bit of a challenge. We had to oxy cut the lid down a little more. we also realised that using clamp on the bottom to rest the lid on was usefull. it was to help get the lid in position with all the other welds for the hinges that need to take place.<br /> I made a mistake by welding the Hinge struts for the cylinder as part of the outside hinges on the lid. the parts look very similar, just a little shorter. it would help if we cut a bit of a different shape in the cad for easy identification. also to make sure everything is numbered.<br /> Putting on the hinges was easier than I thought. You can actually just use clamps or bolt and nuts for each part, keeping them at the 90 degree angle as in the design. Then position them in place getting everything square and tac away. This is all synced up in Trovebox and will be added to the documentation.<br /> <br /> <br /> =5th April, 2014=<br /> one guy got a bond with PLA on his 3d printer directly onto copper at 130C. that means if it works, and im sure it could, we could buy copper sheets directly at the weight price, and print the plastic layer on the back. print the layer on the other side as a resist layer and etch away. this has some potential.<br /> http://hydraraptor.blogspot.com/2010/04/cu-pla.html<br /> <br /> Here is a concept for a self aligning QA Lip<br /> <br /> [[Image:Self Aligning QA Mount.jpg|600px]]<br /> <br /> =4th April, 2014=<br /> Fixed the construction order of the bucket on the dozuki and updated the tines production process to reflect what is happening now.<br /> <br /> Had lots of problems with the wire feeder on the welder today when trying to finish the QA Lip. but we got a lot more done towards the end of the day getting most of the bucket and lip tacked in place. almost ready to start putting on the lid once those welds are finished.<br /> <br /> <br /> =2nd April, 2014=<br /> <br /> today I cut up the larger pieces of stock on the iron worker. but we had a bit of a blocker and that was 2 big pieces that need to be cut with a torch. so we couldn't continue on the main bucket apart form the side walls, but we were busy all day anyway cutting up all the other necessary parts from stock, tubing, and tacking half the teeth.<br /> <br /> I thought this was a good read<br /> <br /> http://www.thefabricator.com/article/arcwelding/22-possible-causes-of-weld-metal-porosity<br /> and this -<br /> http://www.daihen-usa.com/techtips.php<br /> <br /> The first article says porosity is necessarily a deal breaker unless its really bad or a structural requirement<br /> <br /> I learnt to day that having the angle of the tool right made a big difference at about 15 degrees off perpendicular. paint was also causing major problems, so after an initial tack i went grinding along all the seams, welded again and ground out the old bad tacks. <br /> <br /> I know Marcin didn't want us to use the grinder, but it became a necessity with the paint on the rebar that needed to be removed along the seams. I used to grind out heaps of hot water systems I used to find for scrap copper thought so i felt comfortable doing it and it was perfectly safe, I used the small grinder which I'm used to.<br /> <br /> I learnt that when tacking, if it peels a piece back in the other direction after shrinkage, that its better to tack less, just a tiny dot, so that its more malleable. then you can tack the other side more easily without breaking it and then finish with some more solid tacks.<br /> <br /> <br /> =1st April, 2014=<br /> Relocated lots of stuff in the workshop and did some cleanup. Learnt how to weld with Marcin.<br /> <br /> =31st March, 2014=<br /> Upload in progress for a you tube video showing how to produce diagrams in sketchup using scenes for dozuki.<br /> <br /> Finished the dozuki for the Soil Mixer.<br /> <br /> Found an interesting resource on hardening steel<br /> http://www.roymech.co.uk/Useful_Tables/Matter/Hardening.html<br /> <br /> =29th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> Happy birthday to me!<br /> <br /> This shows 3 channel capacitive sensing with an arduino.<br /> http://playground.arduino.cc/Main/CapacitiveSensor?from=Main.CapSense#.UzeQ0dzgg8M<br /> <br /> one thing i wonder about is interference with other objects and people around the table though. when the sense gets near the edges, this could change. i wonder if its being used for this purpose in the real world now how they deal with this issue - if it is an issue that is.<br /> <br /> if the sensor is closer to the plate, with a lower value resistor being used, then this could limit interference.<br /> <br /> using a ring or toroid will have increased sensitivity in the axis perpendicular to the ring. this is because the delta in the field is greater in this axis. good idea!<br /> http://www.agelkom.com.tr/prod02.htm<br /> <br /> you can vary pwm as cutting height is approached to get finer control and slower z speed.<br /> http://www.agelkom.com.tr/cap04_pwm_function.htm<br /> <br /> note aluminium case for shielding of circuit.<br /> http://www.cnc4pc.com/Store/osc/product_info.php?products_id=339?osCsid=9cb438690de2f645e1a951bef1ba4df8<br /> <br /> looking at the material and justins log, i like the idea of using the adafruit ultrasonic range sensor. I drew an idea for some reflector geometry to let us measure a disc pattern instead of a narrow beam.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Ultrasound_Torch_Height_Controller<br /> <br /> its clear that a capacitive solution will require totally different operation when going to a plasma cutter instead of oxy. infact, the capacitive sensor isn't even used - rather the voltage is measured between the torch and table to control height.<br /> <br /> that means two different technologies to achieve the same thing, because you need the capacitive measurement when the torch is off for the initial height.<br /> <br /> i think ultrasonic may be the way to go because it wont be affected by the two different modes of cutting. it could be cheaper, and simpler to maintain.<br /> <br /> you also need to consider height reduction after the cut commences. you could feed an isolated voltage/current measurment to tell the controlled when to drop the torch head.<br /> <br /> shielded cables are a must- some good stuff here, actually a noise reduction bible-<br /> http://www.cnccookbook.com/CCCNCNoise.html<br /> <br /> also<br /> http://www.randyray.com/tmc/rf_shielding.htm<br /> <br /> =28th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> [https://docs.google.com/drawings/d/1IMUu0otp7BRCflIRYKZ1JqR3lF3VF8OBjkPQXPQbV3A/edit created Parallel workflow diagram.] Google draw sucks though. Doesn't know how to filter images for different sizes.<br /> <br /> [http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Build_Instructions embedded this drawing into the build instructions page]<br /> <br /> Added the hinge mechanism and lid build to the dozuki for the soil mixer.<br /> <br /> =27th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> Created bunk bed design. 2 bracket pathways we need to decide on.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Bunk_Bed<br /> <br /> bunk bed specs<br /> 5'2&quot; top level for matress<br /> 1'2&quot; bottom level for matress<br /> 6'4&quot; max height<br /> <br /> moved copy from http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Fabrication_Drawings to http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Build_Instructions<br /> <br /> Setup build instructions for bucket on dozuki<br /> http://opensourceecology.dozuki.com/Guide/Installing+Soil+Mixer+-+Module+-+Bucket+The+soil+pulverizer+bucket/126?revisionid=HEAD<br /> <br /> brief discussion of using internet lines as one connection.<br /> if your going to be paying for 2 internet connections it would be good to load balance them both from one location and distribute it out from there. this would solve the problem of having large numbers of people, and since you are already paying for the second line it makes sense to do it. currently with just 10 users, 50kbit/s up is not going to cut it.<br /> <br /> running ethernet up to the micro house could be done with a switch no more than every 100 meters to boost the signal. if power is an issue power over ethernet could be used also, mentioned in this thread<br /> http://forums.whirlpool.net.au/archive/1164805<br /> <br /> so onto using two connections as one-<br /> <br /> Load balancing is easier than bonding.<br /> <br /> Bonding will double web speed for a single user with 2 internet connections. however this is unnecessary.<br /> <br /> Load balancing will not give you a maximum of 2x the speed for a single, but it will distribute traffic to each of the connections on demand if done correctly. In the real world this means with large numbers of users the web will perform just as well as in bonding. You need to make sure that with 2 connections going in that the load balancing won't just act as a failsafe - switch over to different internet connection if one fails. you want both connections to be used.<br /> <br /> http://www.increasebroadbandspeed.co.uk/what-is-adsl-load-balancing<br /> <br /> if you have a wrt54gl router this might be a good start to figuring this out.<br /> <br /> to achieve this your going to need to position those 2 adsl modems in the same location, before the load balancing hardware - router.<br /> <br /> The ISP doesn't have to know about it if you want to load balance yourself. I believe it can be done without them<br /> <br /> this guy did it with that router-<br /> http://forum.kitz.co.uk/index.php?topic=12308.msg232604#msg232604<br /> <br /> =26th March, 2014=<br /> * Measured out boards for the side rooms.<br /> * Did file format tests import into houdini.<br /> * Spoke to randy on the phone and cuts are ready for pickup. http://www.seamanschuske.com/Seaman_and_Schuske/Welcome.html<br /> <br /> It will now be possible to create a large chunk of the workflow in sketchup for documentation and build procedure. From a base model we can have in the same file procedural references for everything including<br /> *CAD layout for DXF export to CNC.<br /> *exploded view as animation<br /> *fabrication procedure as animation.<br /> *fabrication procedure frames for print manual and dozuki.<br /> <br /> what this means if the base model needs updates, all these dependencies will update too. problems are the plugin is unstable in 2014. it crashes when setting or getting states, using scenes, and also exporting .mp4 doesn't work.<br /> <br /> plan for sketchup video<br /> show dropbox sharing. show scenes, layers groups. show circles and tricks with CAD. show dxf conversion tricks and laying out in sketchup.<br /> <br /> * good sketchup video on scenes<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qEYmiKh-sqs<br /> * groups and components - make sure you know when to use which, or your file will get slow quickly.<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7V_KbxXVt0I<br /> * layers<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fBdP499iw0Y<br /> *speed enhancements<br /> https://sites.google.com/site/sketchupsage/faster<br /> <br /> *dynamic components - pro only<br /> http://help.sketchup.com/en/article/94885<br /> <br /> *plugins<br /> http://sketchucation.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=10&amp;t=36583&amp;p=322249&amp;hilit=+add+hidden+layer+#p322249<br /> <br /> Thinks like the tunes on the rototiller, or grid beam should be designated in sketchup as dynamic components. building them in other software throws away the procedural abitiy of other software, or adding complexity to do it through other plugins to enable software like freecad or open scad.<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;html&gt;&lt;script type=&quot;text/javascript&quot;<br /> data-dozuki-embed='3'<br /> src=&quot;http://d1luk0418egahw.cloudfront.net/static/embed/ifixit-embed.3.js#id=130&amp;site=opensourceecology.dozuki.com&quot;&gt;<br /> &lt;/script&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://opensourceecology.dozuki.com/Guide/Installing+Soil+Mixer+-+Module+-+Toothbar+Teeth/130&quot;&gt;Installing Soil Mixer - Module - Toothbar Teeth&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/html&gt;<br /> <br /> =25th March, 2014=<br /> *updated fabrication procedure text for marcin to review. updated exploded parts diagram and CAM layout numbering. <br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Fabrication_Drawings<br /> *added washers into sketchup file<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_3D_CAD<br /> <br /> *fixed p29 length in cam files to accomodate washers in the hinges<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_CAM<br /> <br /> *Updated cam files protocol<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/CAM_Files_Protocol#Other_Resources<br /> <br /> Note: A lot of time seems to be lost when design changes are made and dependent files on the sketchup such as the dxf, images on the wiki, and wiki uploads to keep everything current need to take place. potentially a more desirable solution would be to have the ability to synchronize all these changes at once.<br /> <br /> =24th March, 2014=<br /> [http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_CAM Updated DXF to send to seaman schuske - Randy Clinton]<br /> *increased the diameter by 1/16th on all the holes except the quick attach mount, and the 3 ground plates because they are already oversized to .625&quot;<br /> <br /> [http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_3D_CAD Updated 3D CAD Sketchup file for exploded diagram and DXF generation]<br /> <br /> <br /> [http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Exploded_Parts_Diagram Updated exploded parts diagram]<br /> <br /> *Updated fabrication diagram text.<br /> <br /> =21th March, 2014=<br /> *Updated exploded view and part numbering.<br /> [[Image:ExplodedView.jpg|400px]]<br /> <br /> *Updated CAM and CAD. Removed extra lines from CAM. fixed radius on motor holes, removed extra motor holes for bolt.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_3D_CAD<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_CAM<br /> <br /> *Added 2nd coat of lime wash to second last room.<br /> *Anthony added first coat of lime wash to last room.<br /> <br /> =20th March, 2014=<br /> *bearing spec for bolt holes is incorrect - should be .625 - http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/File:Bearing178.jpg<br /> *needed to add 4 extra holes into the sidewall<br /> *tested internet, and its not going to be fast enough for a large group of people. good for a few people, up to 4 maybe.<br /> *[http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Exploded_Parts_Diagram Added exploded parts diagram]<br /> *Rubbed out walls in last 2 east rooms. Moved the big glass sheets into the silo. Prepped whitewash and applied into the second last room.<br /> <br /> =19th March, 2014=<br /> *fixed a wheelbarrow axel by replacing the pin and putting 3 large washers on there. After pumping up the tires it'll be good as new.<br /> *mixxed approx 5 shovels of sand to 4-5 shovels of very clayey soil to plaster the window and door on the outside room. this took a lot longer than anticipated to do the job well. plastering on top of the window and door frame required almost 100% clay just to stick, I'm wondering if it will crack but it was the only way it would stick on there even with the wire mesh.<br /> *used sprayer and a damp cloth to smooth out the walls to prep for limewash<br /> *Added suggested ratio to lime wash and plaster ratio suggestion.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Lime_Plaster_and_Wash#BoM<br /> *[http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasertoc.htm came across a sweet link from anthony to make your own laser - laser sam]<br /> <br /> =18th March, 2014=<br /> Uploaded timelapse videos<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kMBSe5V7M8E<br /> <br /> Updated sketchup file to reposition the holes for the mounts. some inaccuracies were present in the components attaching to the shaft.<br /> <br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_3D_CAD<br /> <br /> sketchup note: when creating circles, you must go to window, entity info, chad change the segments from 24 to 48. most circles look like ploys other wise and this will follow through to the machine file.<br /> <br /> Moved everything from the outer rooms into office and silo. took a while because there was a lot of sorting. some things needed to be inside. <br /> <br /> applied lime wash to a wall in the middle room. tomorrow need to smooth out the rendering with a rag. also staple chicken air and get sand from micro house.<br /> <br /> tommorrow - fix sheets and dimensions. get a quote from Justin Fuston<br /> https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0ArpE5Y9PpJCXdGpUZ3dqYWw3czQzZ09IUHFpRl9VT1E#gid=0<br /> <br /> =17th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> Updated CAD. Chamfered corners, removed excess hinge parts, rotated struts 90 degrees. added gussets, but now they may not be necessary with the struts at 90 degrees. easy to remove. stacking of the hinge components around the hydraulic mechanism has been changed for better strength and ease of construction.<br /> <br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_3D_CAD<br /> <br /> This has been fixed. see video! you just need to clear the prefs.<br /> &lt;strike&gt;I also submitted a complaint to google, sketch up 2014 eliminated features in the free version of 2013 so that you have to pay for them. It's no longer possible to export to 3DS and most other pro formats now.&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> <br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A9TdFNZwLtc&amp;feature=em-upload_owner<br /> <br /> &lt;html&gt;<br /> &lt;iframe width=&quot;560&quot; height=&quot;315&quot; src=&quot;//www.youtube.com/embed/A9TdFNZwLtc&quot; frameborder=&quot;0&quot; allowfullscreen&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;<br /> &lt;/html&gt;<br /> <br /> Microhouse-<br /> - Painted walls with white.<br /> <br /> - Moved weights into the silo.<br /> <br /> - prepped lime in 1 to one in the white container.<br /> <br /> =16th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> Added dhal to recipes-<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Recipes<br /> <br /> Fixed vacuum cleaner.<br /> <br /> Setup DIY mouse trap design to drown rodents.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Mouse_trap<br /> <br /> =15th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> Recipe for Dahl. For 8 people.<br /> Awesome vegetarian power food high in protein.<br /> <br /> 4 onions.<br /> <br /> half a bulb of garlic<br /> <br /> 1.5kg lentils or split peas, soaked for as long as you can during the day, overnight if possible. if not, it will just take longer to cook but it works out fine. rinse them thoroughly!<br /> <br /> Coconut oil<br /> <br /> teaspoon whole cumin seeds<br /> <br /> cumin powder<br /> <br /> garam masala<br /> <br /> salt<br /> <br /> pepper<br /> <br /> chilli or cayenne pepper<br /> <br /> turmeric<br /> <br /> sour cream and cilantro for garnish.<br /> <br /> heat the oil and keep an eye on it so it doesn't smoke.<br /> fry the cumin seeds for a bit then add the onions and garlic on high. when the onions are clear to brown colour add 1/2 teaspoons of the rest of the spices and the lentils. add water to the pot until the lentils are just covered.<br /> keep on high heat until it starts to boil, then simmer until the lentils are soft/falling apart. this usually takes an hour.<br /> add to bowls and garnish with the cilantro and sour cream!<br /> <br /> <br /> -------<br /> <br /> <br /> Added large grain sand and clay mix to top right corner of hablab. when dried we added mist and then lime wash. it may need another layer.<br /> <br /> Painted the outside door frames yellow.<br /> <br /> Modifications added to http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_Review<br /> <br /> Current design revisions-<br /> <br /> 1. Long reinforcement on edge of lid - 1/4 x 2. Current reinforcement needs to be rotated 90 degrees.<br /> <br /> 2. Centre the cylinder mount, add an extra strut for symmetry.<br /> <br /> 3. gusset 1/2&quot; x 4&quot; triangle on the rod end mount<br /> <br /> 4. 45 degrees angle on outside hinge to lip mount.<br /> <br /> =14th March, 2014=<br /> tomatoe varieties for OSE - <br /> jetstart<br /> homestead,<br /> bhn 1021<br /> defiant phr<br /> <br /> setting out planting guide for kansas city<br /> http://www.almanac.com/gardening/planting-dates/zipcode/64151<br /> <br /> =13th March, 2014=<br /> Updated cad file and range of motion. Added hinges and correct thicknesses.<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Overall_Machine_-_3D_CAD<br /> <br /> [[Image:sketchupModel.png|400px]]<br /> <br /> Collaboration notes: setting up remote collaboration for the design process in solid works can be aided by a synchronized web folder to users local paths. drop box achieves this but has a size limit. we need software that can do that locally to a raid array with offsite backup. Eric Potash suggested aero fs https://www.aerofs.com<br /> We also have http://www.bittorrent.com/sync which looks very promising with redundancy and http://owncloud.org<br /> <br /> Lime wash<br /> <br /> Determined that the 4 parts lime/3 parts water then salt added (salt is 1/5th the lime amount by volume, not weight) is a good mix provided the surface is smooth. On a rough surface this mix is too thick. If the mix is too thick it can crack due to shrinkage after drying.<br /> For a rough surface, this mix instead works - 1 part lime / 1 part water by volume, with salt being the same ratio as before - 1/5th the amount of lime by volume.<br /> It isn't necessary to mix the salt with more water prior to mixing with a drill in both these recipes. this was done on previous days to help mix more evenly, but these mixes are both watery enough to not worry about this.<br /> <br /> Pre misting the area before applying the lime wash prevents cracking significantly. This is done by lightly misting so the soil looks darkened and damp, but not soaking wet which affects the bond negatively. Waiting a while to see it dry a little (~30 seconds) and repeating this 4 or 5 times helps create a deeper bond into to adobe wall when the lime wash is applied.<br /> <br /> Hard synthetic brushes are ok to use only on smoothly rendered stucco, but on mud stucco these can be too abrasive and affect application. softer brushes like the thick ones we use from horse hair apply the mix really smoothly and work really well on both types of surfaces.<br /> <br /> [[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tgDarFYW7hk 4/3 mix failing in divots]]<br /> [[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QrqwRHOAA8s testing with spray]]<br /> <br /> For filling holes with earth plaster, Chris also added that they had success when mixing coarse grain sand with the clayey soil 3/1 and that there was no shrinkage problems when filling holes. they mixed it with their hands. they also sprayed the wall which helped.<br /> <br /> 3D Printer that Coulton fixed!<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MH_0sHNAd9w<br /> <br /> =12th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> *3D range of motion test for hydraulic cylinder.<br /> *http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Opening_Mechanism_Module_-_Calculations<br /> *http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/File:RangeOfMotion.png<br /> *http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_-_Opening_Mechanism_Module_-_Bill_of_Materials<br /> *Hablab whitewash testing - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BiA1LRERXjU&amp;list=UU0Jra6oMPLejbnPr4bzxdpg<br /> <br /> Determined that thick 2 to 1 lime/water ratio is too thick and cracks in some areas. Prepping with misting the adobe layer before limewashing definitely reduces cracking.<br /> We are also testing two recipes for tomorrow. One that is 4/3 Lime/water. The other that is 1/1. We will test both of these to see which works better.<br /> <br /> <br /> =11th March, 2014=<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KjADHmrkFy4<br /> <br /> Tested different whitewash formula. it appeared that thick lime wash was less tolerant of some areas of the wall and was peeling back at some points after some time had passed. We applied a thin whitewash with the consistency of cream or milk at the end to different parts of the wall to see if we could avoid the peeling problem.<br /> <br /> Drew the clamshell mechanism and hinge in sketch up for the Soil Mixer.<br /> <br /> Screenshot<br /> [[Image:WIPsoild_mixer_and_lid.png|200px]]<br /> <br /> <br /> Sketchup in progress<br /> [[File:SoilPulverizerV1s001.skp]]<br /> <br /> =10th March, 2014=<br /> Timelapse of wall painting-<br /> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o4bef_KFQts<br /> <br /> Helped sketch designs for soil mixer.<br /> <br /> Painted wall with Lauren and Cat. (timelapse video in progress)<br /> <br /> Cooked thai style fried rice for dinner.<br /> <br /> Commenced ideation for procedural animation of the GVCS in Houdini for documentation.<br /> <br /> =9th March, 2014=<br /> <br /> [[Soil Mixer Requirements]].<br /> <br /> Append design Rationale -<br /> http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Soil_Mixer_Construction_Set_Requirements<br /> <br /> Laid hay over the ground to stop mud being moved along the path.</div>

Andrew Graham https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=File:Soil_Pulverizor_-_CAM_Layout.skp&diff=118146 2014-04-05T19:13:58Z

<p>Andrew Graham: Andrew Graham uploaded a new version of &amp;quot;File:Soil Pulverizor - CAM Layout.skp&amp;quot;</p> <hr /> <div></div>

Andrew Graham