Open Source Ecology - User contributions [en]

Brianna Kufa

2015-04-21T06:11:21Z

Bkufa: Blanked the page

Brianna Kufa

2012-11-08T21:08:06Z

Bkufa: Blanked the page

Fef electricity

2012-06-30T20:03:29Z

Bkufa:

==Welder Extension Cord/wiring==
We need to wire the shop so we can move the welder safely; the "ghetto wiring" we have now keeps shorting out and will likely melt the insulation, as we are using wire far too thin for what the welder is rated for.

A first step would be making an extension cord for the welder.

Three considerations should be specified before making extension cord:
*Wire type (meaning gauge and strands per cord)
*Wire length
*Plugs at end

'''Wire length'''
Brianna determined 35'. This has to do with placement of wall outlet, and overall shop size. We want the welder to be able to go throughout most of the shop, without needing another extension cord or a creative wiring solution.

'''Wire type'''
This is a bit more difficult. We have 2 conflicting ways of determining what the diameter should be:
*Ampacity- Welder is rated for 40A, so according to the [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_wire_gauge AWG recommendations] a minimum of 10ga is required. However, this assumes we have insulation rated for 90 degrees C. If we can't find this, 8 ga should do.
*Wire type on welder- assuming the welder engineers knew what they were doing, we should mimic what gauge they put on the welder plug. From what Brianna measured on the millermatic 200 welder, the diameter of the wire is ~.15", which appears to be 6ga or 7ga.

'''Plug'''
The plugs should have the female end matching the welders we currently have. Both have different plugs, so perhaps we can get one of each plug.

Fef electricity

2012-06-30T19:58:48Z

Bkufa: Created page with "==Welder Extension Cord/wiring== We need to wire the shop so we can move the welder safely; the "ghetto wiring" we have now keeps shorting out and will likely melt the insulation..."

==Welder Extension Cord/wiring==
We need to wire the shop so we can move the welder safely; the "ghetto wiring" we have now keeps shorting out and will likely melt the insulation, as we are using wire far too thin for what the welder is rated for.

A first step would be making an extension cord for the welder.

Three considerations should be specified before making extension cord:
*Wire type (meaning gauge and strands per cord)
*Wire length
*Plugs at end

'''Wire length'''
Brianna determined 35'. This has to do with placement of wall outlet, and overall shop size. We want the welder to be able to go throughout most of the shop, without needing another extension cord or a creative wiring solution.

'''Wire type'''
This is a bit more difficult. We have 2 conflicting ways of determining what the diameter should be:
*Ampacity- Welder is rated for 40A, so according to the [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_wire_gauge AWG recommendations] a minimum of 10ga is required. However, this assumes we have insulation rated for 90 degrees C. If we can't find this, 8 ga should do.
*Wire type on welder- assuming the welder engineers knew what they were doing, we should mimic what gauge they put on the welder plug. From what Brianna measured on the millermatic 200 welder, it appears it is 5ga.

'''Plug'''
The plugs should have the female end matching the welders we currently have. Both have different plugs, so perhaps we can get one of each plug.

Cold Saw/V1 Design Files/Mount Disc

2012-06-27T02:41:19Z

Bkufa: /* Mount Disc */

=Mount Disc=

*'''Shape: Round Plate'''

*'''Outside Diameter: 120mm'''

*'''Inside Diameter: 32mm'''

*'''Thickness: 12.7mm'''

*'''Number of Pinholes: 2'''

*'''Pinhole Diameter: 8mm'''

*'''Pinhole Distance from Center: 45mm'''

*'''2D Image'''

[[Image: ColdSawV1MountDisc.jpg|500px]]

*'''3D CAD STP'''

[[File: ColdSawV1MountDisc.stp]]

*'''2D Fabrication Drawing PDF'''

Metric: [[File: ColdSawV1MountDisc.pdf]]

Imperial: [[File: ColdSawV1MountDiscImperial.pdf]]

*'''2D Fabrication Drawing DXF'''

[[File: ColdSawV1MountDisc.dxf]]

File:ColdSawV1MountDiscImperial.pdf

2012-06-27T02:38:55Z

Bkufa:

Cold Saw/V1 Design Files/Mount Disc

2012-06-27T02:38:18Z

Bkufa: /* Mount Disc */

=Mount Disc=

*'''Shape: Round Plate'''

*'''Outside Diameter: 120mm'''

*'''Inside Diameter: 32mm'''

*'''Thickness: 12.7mm'''

*'''Number of Pinholes: 2'''

*'''Pinhole Diameter: 8mm'''

*'''Pinhole Distance from Center: 45mm'''

*'''2D Image'''

[[Image: ColdSawV1MountDisc.jpg|500px]]

*'''3D CAD STP'''

[[File: ColdSawV1MountDisc.stp]]

*'''2D Fabrication Drawing PDF'''

Metric: [[File: ColdSawV1MountDisc.pdf]]
Imperial: [[File: ColdSawV1MountDiscImperial.pdf]]

*'''2D Fabrication Drawing DXF'''

[[File: ColdSawV1MountDisc.dxf]]

Ironworker/punch/brainstorm

2012-06-26T02:59:57Z

Bkufa: Created page with "Things I need to find and document: *Proper height for die block: will be when upper arm is parallel with floor *Angle change over the full necessary throw of punch *Piranha dove..."

Things I need to find and document:
*Proper height for die block: will be when upper arm is parallel with floor
*Angle change over the full necessary throw of punch
*Piranha dovetail- obtain or do without? Is there another way of mounting without a dovetail? how much cheaper to make vs. buy
*buy an entire piranha punching assy? how much does it cost?
*Dovetail specs?
*buy a brake to retrofit dovetail?
*Design "upright" table to go along with it?

Ironworker/punch/calculations/springs

2012-06-26T02:38:14Z

Bkufa: /* Spring Specs */

==Problem Statement:== Specify springs for a Piranha style punch
'''Knowns:'''
*Max punching force: 90T
*Max stripping force: [http://books.google.com/books?id=4PZxakNhjT0C&pg=PA122&lpg=PA122&dq=punch+stripping+force&source=bl&ots=kU8Bn01b4k&sig=lOgoD1rthuwIuBRKetHNG0JSy3Q&hl=en&sa=X&ei=6-RkT6m-JMHgsQKvs722Dw&ved=0CDIQ6AEwAg#v=onepage&q=punch%20stripping%20force&f=false 25% of punching force], or .25*90T=22.5T
** The study mentioned *UP TO 25%*, with an average of under 10%, which would come to 9T, which is well within spec. This depends on a few factors:
***How many times the punch has been used (after 7, the force decreases, as punch smoothens out)
***Whether or not the punch is lubricated
***The clearance between punch and die

'''Unknowns:'''
*Necessary compressive force for spring
*Spring Length, solid and stretched
*Spring constant
*Spring Diameter

==Calculations==
===Max Compressive force===
=Force/# of springs
- 22.5T/2 = 11.5T, at 1", or any other application which requires 90T of force.

===Spring Specs===
'''Thoughts'''
*Since the machine can theoretically do a cut which uses 90T of force in infinitely thin material (the diameter of the hole would need to be really big!) we should use springs which will have close to the 11.5T of force with very little distance moved. Also, this would not need to change too much as the machine progresses towards making 90T punches at the 1" thickness.
**What this tells me is that we should use a spring with spring constant (k) relatively low with relation to it's diameter, and compress it to install. This way, we won't be needing to overcome more force than necessary.
***IE if we need 11.5T for 1/4" steel, we have two options use the low constant or the high one.
****If we use the low one, precompressed, the force will be relatively close to that, maybe a max of 15T or 20T, if we are punching thru 1" thick.
****If we use a high constant, the force would quadruple over that distance, making it 46tons. If you don't understand this, take a physics class.
*Research on how Piranha does it:
**http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W6BeFhm3xTk

*Perhaps the easiest solution is to buy a set of piranha urethane strippers, as they are relatively cheap ($76 [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W6BeFhm3xTk here]).
**Problem with this is that it requires same length of bit and attachment as piranha, which we don't have access to... we could guess from videos and get close, but this is not preferable.
*Another option is to buy the polyurethane die strippers from McMaster, and do a design like piranha. It appears they don't have anything which offers enough resistance... but perhaps it is something which can be tested, as the most expensive pair would be $23, instead of $76.
*Final option is strippers which are punch specific, like [http://www.acrotechinc.com/standard-products/surstrip-punch-strippers.php here]

Ironworker/punch/calculations/springs

2012-06-26T02:26:08Z

Bkufa:

==Problem Statement:== Specify springs for a Piranha style punch
'''Knowns:'''
*Max punching force: 90T
*Max stripping force: [http://books.google.com/books?id=4PZxakNhjT0C&pg=PA122&lpg=PA122&dq=punch+stripping+force&source=bl&ots=kU8Bn01b4k&sig=lOgoD1rthuwIuBRKetHNG0JSy3Q&hl=en&sa=X&ei=6-RkT6m-JMHgsQKvs722Dw&ved=0CDIQ6AEwAg#v=onepage&q=punch%20stripping%20force&f=false 25% of punching force], or .25*90T=22.5T
** The study mentioned *UP TO 25%*, with an average of under 10%, which would come to 9T, which is well within spec. This depends on a few factors:
***How many times the punch has been used (after 7, the force decreases, as punch smoothens out)
***Whether or not the punch is lubricated
***The clearance between punch and die

'''Unknowns:'''
*Necessary compressive force for spring
*Spring Length, solid and stretched
*Spring constant
*Spring Diameter

==Calculations==
===Max Compressive force===
=Force/# of springs
- 22.5T/2 = 11.5T, at 1", or any other application which requires 90T of force.

===Spring Specs===
'''Thoughts'''
*Since the machine can theoretically do a cut which uses 90T of force in infinitely thin material (the diameter of the hole would need to be really big!) we should use springs which will have close to the 11.5T of force with very little distance moved. Also, this would not need to change too much as the machine progresses towards making 90T punches at the 1" thickness.
**What this tells me is that we should use a spring with spring constant (k) relatively low with relation to it's diameter, and compress it to install. This way, we won't be needing to overcome more force than necessary.
***IE if we need 11.5T for 1/4" steel, we have two options use the low constant or the high one.
****If we use the low one, precompressed, the force will be relatively close to that, maybe a max of 15T or 20T, if we are punching thru 1" thick.
****If we use a high constant, the force would quadruple over that distance, making it 46tons. If you don't understand this, take a physics class.
*Research on how Piranha does it:
**http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W6BeFhm3xTk

*Perhaps the easiest solution is to buy a set of piranha urethane strippers, as they are relatively cheap ($76 [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W6BeFhm3xTk here]).
**Problem with this is that it requires same length of bit and attachment as piranha, which we don't have access to... we could guess from videos and get close, but this is not preferable.
*Another option is to buy the polyurethane die strippers from McMaster. It appears they don't have anything which offers enough resistance... but perhaps it is something which can be tested.

Ironworker/punch/calculations/springs

2012-06-26T02:22:22Z

Bkufa: /* Spring Specs */

==Problem Statement:== Specify springs for a Piranha style punch
'''Knowns:'''
*Max punching force: 90T
*Max stripping force: [http://books.google.com/books?id=4PZxakNhjT0C&pg=PA122&lpg=PA122&dq=punch+stripping+force&source=bl&ots=kU8Bn01b4k&sig=lOgoD1rthuwIuBRKetHNG0JSy3Q&hl=en&sa=X&ei=6-RkT6m-JMHgsQKvs722Dw&ved=0CDIQ6AEwAg#v=onepage&q=punch%20stripping%20force&f=false 25% of punching force], or .25*90T=22.5T

'''Unknowns:'''
*Necessary compressive force for spring
*Spring Length, solid and stretched
*Spring constant
*Spring Diameter

==Calculations==
===Max Compressive force===
=Force/# of springs
- 22.5T/2 = 11.5T, at 1", or any other application which requires 90T of force.

===Spring Specs===
'''Thoughts'''
*Since the machine can theoretically do a cut which uses 90T of force in infinitely thin material (the diameter of the hole would need to be really big!) we should use springs which will have close to the 11.5T of force with very little distance moved. Also, this would not need to change too much as the machine progresses towards making 90T punches at the 1" thickness.
**What this tells me is that we should use a spring with spring constant (k) relatively low with relation to it's diameter, and compress it to install. This way, we won't be needing to overcome more force than necessary.
***IE if we need 11.5T for 1/4" steel, we have two options use the low constant or the high one.
****If we use the low one, precompressed, the force will be relatively close to that, maybe a max of 15T or 20T, if we are punching thru 1" thick.
****If we use a high constant, the force would quadruple over that distance, making it 46tons. If you don't understand this, take a physics class.
*Research on how Piranha does it:
**http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W6BeFhm3xTk

*Perhaps the easiest solution is to buy a set of piranha urethane strippers, as they are relatively cheap ($76 [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W6BeFhm3xTk here]).
**Problem with this is that it requires same length of bit and attachment as piranha, which we don't have access to... we could guess from videos and get close, but this is not preferable.
*Another option is to buy the polyurethane die strippers from McMaster. It appears they don't have anything which offers enough resistance... but perhaps it is something which can be tested.

Ironworker/punch/calculations/springs

2012-06-26T02:16:55Z

Bkufa: /* Spring Specs */

==Problem Statement:== Specify springs for a Piranha style punch
'''Knowns:'''
*Max punching force: 90T
*Max stripping force: [http://books.google.com/books?id=4PZxakNhjT0C&pg=PA122&lpg=PA122&dq=punch+stripping+force&source=bl&ots=kU8Bn01b4k&sig=lOgoD1rthuwIuBRKetHNG0JSy3Q&hl=en&sa=X&ei=6-RkT6m-JMHgsQKvs722Dw&ved=0CDIQ6AEwAg#v=onepage&q=punch%20stripping%20force&f=false 25% of punching force], or .25*90T=22.5T

'''Unknowns:'''
*Necessary compressive force for spring
*Spring Length, solid and stretched
*Spring constant
*Spring Diameter

==Calculations==
===Max Compressive force===
=Force/# of springs
- 22.5T/2 = 11.5T, at 1", or any other application which requires 90T of force.

===Spring Specs===
'''Thoughts'''
*Since the machine can theoretically do a cut which uses 90T of force in infinitely thin material (the diameter of the hole would need to be really big!) we should use springs which will have close to the 11.5T of force with very little distance moved. Also, this would not need to change too much as the machine progresses towards making 90T punches at the 1" thickness.
**What this tells me is that we should use a spring with spring constant (k) relatively low with relation to it's diameter, and compress it to install. This way, we won't be needing to overcome more force than necessary.
***IE if we need 11.5T for 1/4" steel, we have two options use the low constant or the high one.
****If we use the low one, precompressed, the force will be relatively close to that, maybe a max of 15T or 20T, if we are punching thru 1" thick.
****If we use a high constant, the force would quadruple over that distance, making it 46tons. If you don't understand this, take a physics class.
*Research on how Piranha does it:
**http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W6BeFhm3xTk

*Perhaps the easiest solution is to buy a set of piranha urethane strippers, as they are relatively cheap ($76 [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W6BeFhm3xTk here]).
*Another option is to buy the polyurethane die strippers from McMaster. It appears they don't have anything which offers enough resistance... but perhaps it is something which can be tested. The study mentioned *UP TO 25", with an average of under 10%, which would come to 9T, which is well within spec.

Ironworker/punch/calculations/springs

2012-06-26T01:51:14Z

Bkufa: Created page with "==Problem Statement:== Specify springs for a Piranha style punch '''Knowns:''' *Max punching force: 90T *Max stripping force: [http://books.google.com/books?id=4PZxakNhjT0C&pg=PA..."

Cold Saw/Build Instructions/Fabricability Review

2012-06-22T22:56:32Z

Bkufa: /* Blade Guard */

This is a page to review V1 design and 2d fab drawings.

==Design==

===General===
* Can you put in threaded rods and proper bolts? I don't need it for building, as I will be able to consult you if I have questions. However, anyone simply looking at the cad will have no idea of how the thing works. '''Threads are render-intensive, but changing colour for threaded sections can be done'''
* Are there any mechanisms in place to precisely change the speed of the blade? For optimum cutting, the speed needs to be variable so that we can have the proper cutting speed for varied materials. If the speed is too fast, it will destroy the very expensive blade... '''Flow to the hydraulic motor can be adjusted.'''

===Swivel===
* Should be a grease nip around rod for swivel which allows lube.
* Any markers to tell you what angle the blade is at relative to vise? Protractors are a pain in the a** for fabricators. Markings will be more convenient. Stickers are sold online for stuff like that.
* The nut on the rod should be a hex nut, not round... You won't be able to get a round nut tight enough to prevent swiveling. For that matter, milled slots could be adventageous on the base, so you can clamp in multiple spots.

===Blade Guard===
*Your design is doable, but requires more welding than necessary, and is wayyy thicker than necessary. Most guards I've seen are much thinner, around 16ga or thinner. An easy solution would be a round guard. It is easily torchable, and if you use thin material, you can bend the material as you're welding it. '''Thin circular blade guard is easier, eh- let's do it the easy way.'''
*Any reason it is so wide relative to blade with? it's wasting materials. '''YK: The blade guard must be wide enough to replace the blade without taking off the blade guard. BK: It still has over 1" extra.'''

===Vise===
I recommend revising clamp jaw and vise design, on the following fronts:
*Clamp block should be as large as possible while retaining full range of motion; this gives more surface area for the jaws to mount to, increasing likelihood of remaining square over time.
*Vise blocks should close all the way, or at maximum 1/4" away.
**May need to make vise blocks from multiple pieces so they can nestle above the center piece of the vise.
*Jaws should be sliding on the bottom surface if possible--this will also go towards keeping it square. IE there should be a solid surface under them, they should not be floating, relying on the bolts to keep them vertically.
*Slots on jaws for bolts should be centered-goes towards keeping it square
*Slots should have radiused corners; no endmill is capable of milling a rectangle.
*Handle seems to be a waste of material. I see 2 options:
** Machinist style vise handle (look on the mill)
** Table vise style, with sliding rod.

==2D Fab Drawings==
*Wherever possible, convert measurements to English units-- FeF Mills are in English units, so the conversion will need to happen either while milling, or on the drawings.
*Specify tolerances on all drawings
*Is there a cut list?

===[http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Cold_Saw/Build_Instructions/Base_to_Vise Base to Vise]===
* Does the bottom side of Fixed Block need to be machined flat? Same with top of base flat. If so, specify in drawing and instructions.
* Extend baseplate so the swiveling blade mount will always be on plate.
* Need diagram to show where to weld "long spacers"

===[http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Cold_Saw/Build_Instructions/Vise Vise]===
*

Cold Saw/Build Instructions/Fabricability Review

2012-06-22T22:50:56Z

Bkufa: /* Vise */

This is a page to review V1 design and 2d fab drawings.

==Design==

===General===
* Can you put in threaded rods and proper bolts? I don't need it for building, as I will be able to consult you if I have questions. However, anyone simply looking at the cad will have no idea of how the thing works. '''Threads are render-intensive, but changing colour for threaded sections can be done'''
* Are there any mechanisms in place to precisely change the speed of the blade? For optimum cutting, the speed needs to be variable so that we can have the proper cutting speed for varied materials. If the speed is too fast, it will destroy the very expensive blade... '''Flow to the hydraulic motor can be adjusted.'''

===Swivel===
* Should be a grease nip around rod for swivel which allows lube.
* Any markers to tell you what angle the blade is at relative to vise? Protractors are a pain in the a** for fabricators. Markings will be more convenient. Stickers are sold online for stuff like that.
* The nut on the rod should be a hex nut, not round... You won't be able to get a round nut tight enough to prevent swiveling. For that matter, milled slots could be adventageous on the base, so you can clamp in multiple spots.

===Blade Guard===
*Your design is doable, but requires more welding than necessary, and is wayyy thicker than necessary. Most guards I've seen are much thinner, around 16ga or thinner. An easy solution would be a round guard. It is easily torchable, and if you use thin material, you can bend the material as you're welding it. '''Thin circular blade guard is easier, eh- let's do it the easy way.'''
*Any reason it is so wide relative to blade with? it's wasting materials. '''The blade guard must be wide enough to replace the blade without taking off the blade guard.'''

===Vise===
I recommend revising clamp jaw and vise design, on the following fronts:
*Clamp block should be as large as possible while retaining full range of motion; this gives more surface area for the jaws to mount to, increasing likelihood of remaining square over time.
*Vise blocks should close all the way, or at maximum 1/4" away.
**May need to make vise blocks from multiple pieces so they can nestle above the center piece of the vise.
*Jaws should be sliding on the bottom surface if possible--this will also go towards keeping it square. IE there should be a solid surface under them, they should not be floating, relying on the bolts to keep them vertically.
*Slots on jaws for bolts should be centered-goes towards keeping it square
*Slots should have radiused corners; no endmill is capable of milling a rectangle.
*Handle seems to be a waste of material. I see 2 options:
** Machinist style vise handle (look on the mill)
** Table vise style, with sliding rod.

==2D Fab Drawings==
*Wherever possible, convert measurements to English units-- FeF Mills are in English units, so the conversion will need to happen either while milling, or on the drawings.
*Specify tolerances on all drawings
*Is there a cut list?

===[http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Cold_Saw/Build_Instructions/Base_to_Vise Base to Vise]===
* Does the bottom side of Fixed Block need to be machined flat? Same with top of base flat. If so, specify in drawing and instructions.
* Extend baseplate so the swiveling blade mount will always be on plate.
* Need diagram to show where to weld "long spacers"

===[http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Cold_Saw/Build_Instructions/Vise Vise]===
*

Cold Saw/Build Instructions/Fabricability Review

2012-06-22T19:56:09Z

Bkufa: /* Blade Guard */

This is a page to review V1 design and 2d fab drawings.

==Design==

===General===
* Can you put in threaded rods and proper bolts? I don't need it for building, as I will be able to consult you if I have questions. However, anyone simply looking at the cad will have no idea of how the thing works.
* Are there any mechanisms in place to precisely change the speed of the blade? For optimum cutting, the speed needs to be variable so that we can have the proper cutting speed for varied materials. If the speed is too fast, it will destroy the very expensive blade...

===Swivel===
* Should be a grease nip around rod for swivel which allows lube.
* Any markers to tell you what angle the blade is at relative to vise? Protractors are a pain in the a** for fabricators. Markings will be more convenient. Stickers are sold online for stuff like that.
* The nut on the rod should be a hex nut, not round... You won't be able to get a round nut tight enough to prevent swiveling. For that matter, milled slots could be adventageous on the base, so you can clamp in multiple spots.

===Blade Guard===
*Your design is doable, but requires more welding than necessary, and is wayyy thicker than necessary. Most guards I've seen are much thinner, around 16ga or thinner. An easy solution would be a round guard. It is easily torchable, and if you use thin material, you can bend the material as you're welding it.
*Any reason it is so wide relative to blade with? it's wasting materials.

===Vise===
I recommend revising clamp jaw and vise design, on the following fronts:
*Clamp block should be as large as possible while retaining full range of motion; this gives more surface area for the jaws to mount to, increasing likelihood of remaining square over time.
*Vise blocks should close all the way, or at maximum 1/4" away.
**May need to make vise blocks from multiple pieces so they can nestle above the center piece of the vise.
*Jaws should be sliding if possible--this will also go towards keeping it square
*Slots on jaws for bolts should be centered-goes towards keeping it square
*Slots should have radiused corners; no endmill is capable of milling a rectangle.
*Handle seems to be a waste of material. I see 2 options:
** Machinist style vise handle (look on the mill)
** Table vise style, with sliding rod.

==2D Fab Drawings==
*Wherever possible, convert measurements to English units-- FeF Mills are in English units, so the conversion will need to happen either while milling, or on the drawings.
*Specify tolerances on all drawings
*Is there a cut list?

===[http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Cold_Saw/Build_Instructions/Base_to_Vise Base to Vise]===
* Does the bottom side of Fixed Block need to be machined flat? Same with top of base flat. If so, specify in drawing and instructions.
* Extend baseplate so the swiveling blade mount will always be on plate.
* Need diagram to show where to weld "long spacers"

===[http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Cold_Saw/Build_Instructions/Vise Vise]===
*

Cold Saw/Build Instructions/Fabricability Review

2012-06-22T19:55:20Z

Bkufa: /* General */

This is a page to review V1 design and 2d fab drawings.

==Design==

===General===
* Can you put in threaded rods and proper bolts? I don't need it for building, as I will be able to consult you if I have questions. However, anyone simply looking at the cad will have no idea of how the thing works.
* Are there any mechanisms in place to precisely change the speed of the blade? For optimum cutting, the speed needs to be variable so that we can have the proper cutting speed for varied materials. If the speed is too fast, it will destroy the very expensive blade...

===Swivel===
* Should be a grease nip around rod for swivel which allows lube.
* Any markers to tell you what angle the blade is at relative to vise? Protractors are a pain in the a** for fabricators. Markings will be more convenient. Stickers are sold online for stuff like that.
* The nut on the rod should be a hex nut, not round... You won't be able to get a round nut tight enough to prevent swiveling. For that matter, milled slots could be adventageous on the base, so you can clamp in multiple spots.

===Blade Guard===
*Your design is doable, but requires more welding than necessary, and is wayyy thicker than necessary. Most guards I've seen are much thinner, around 16ga or thinner. An easy solution would be a round guard. It is easily torchable, and if you use thin material, you can bend the material as you're welding it.

===Vise===
I recommend revising clamp jaw and vise design, on the following fronts:
*Clamp block should be as large as possible while retaining full range of motion; this gives more surface area for the jaws to mount to, increasing likelihood of remaining square over time.
*Vise blocks should close all the way, or at maximum 1/4" away.
**May need to make vise blocks from multiple pieces so they can nestle above the center piece of the vise.
*Jaws should be sliding if possible--this will also go towards keeping it square
*Slots on jaws for bolts should be centered-goes towards keeping it square
*Slots should have radiused corners; no endmill is capable of milling a rectangle.
*Handle seems to be a waste of material. I see 2 options:
** Machinist style vise handle (look on the mill)
** Table vise style, with sliding rod.

==2D Fab Drawings==
*Wherever possible, convert measurements to English units-- FeF Mills are in English units, so the conversion will need to happen either while milling, or on the drawings.
*Specify tolerances on all drawings
*Is there a cut list?

===[http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Cold_Saw/Build_Instructions/Base_to_Vise Base to Vise]===
* Does the bottom side of Fixed Block need to be machined flat? Same with top of base flat. If so, specify in drawing and instructions.
* Extend baseplate so the swiveling blade mount will always be on plate.
* Need diagram to show where to weld "long spacers"

===[http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Cold_Saw/Build_Instructions/Vise Vise]===
*

Cold Saw

2012-06-22T19:54:33Z

Bkufa:

=Cold Saw Version 1=

In Progress

=Understand=

http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Cold_Saw/Understand

http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Cold_Saw/V1_Design_Rationale

http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Cold_Saw/V1_Design_Files (to be removed)

=Replicate=

http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Cold_Saw/Build_Instructions

=Design review=

http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Cold_Saw/Build_Instructions/Fabricability_Review

Cold Saw/Build Instructions/Fabricability Review

2012-06-22T19:50:09Z

Bkufa: /* General */

This is a page to review V1 design and 2d fab drawings.

==Design==

===General===
* Can you put in threaded rods and proper bolts? I don't need it for building, as I will be able to consult you if I have questions. However, anyone simply looking at the cad will have no idea of how the thing works.
* Are there any mechanisms in place to precisely change the speed of the blade? For optimum cutting, the speed needs to be variable so that we can have the proper cutting speed for varied materials. If the speed is too fast, it will destroy the very expensive blade...
* Should be a grease nip around rod for swivel which allows lube.
* Any markers to tell you what angle the blade is at relative to vise? Protractors are a pain in the a** for fabricators. Markings will be more convenient. Stickers are sold online for stuff like that.

===Swivel===
* Should be a grease nip around rod for swivel which allows lube.
* Any markers to tell you what angle the blade is at relative to vise? Protractors are a pain in the a** for fabricators. Markings will be more convenient. Stickers are sold online for stuff like that.
* The nut on the rod should be a hex nut, not round... You won't be able to get a round nut tight enough to prevent swiveling. For that matter, milled slots could be adventageous on the base, so you can clamp in multiple spots.

===Blade Guard===
*Your design is doable, but requires more welding than necessary, and is wayyy thicker than necessary. Most guards I've seen are much thinner, around 16ga or thinner. An easy solution would be a round guard. It is easily torchable, and if you use thin material, you can bend the material as you're welding it.

===Vise===
I recommend revising clamp jaw and vise design, on the following fronts:
*Clamp block should be as large as possible while retaining full range of motion; this gives more surface area for the jaws to mount to, increasing likelihood of remaining square over time.
*Vise blocks should close all the way, or at maximum 1/4" away.
**May need to make vise blocks from multiple pieces so they can nestle above the center piece of the vise.
*Jaws should be sliding if possible--this will also go towards keeping it square
*Slots on jaws for bolts should be centered-goes towards keeping it square
*Slots should have radiused corners; no endmill is capable of milling a rectangle.
*Handle seems to be a waste of material. I see 2 options:
** Machinist style vise handle (look on the mill)
** Table vise style, with sliding rod.

==2D Fab Drawings==
*Wherever possible, convert measurements to English units-- FeF Mills are in English units, so the conversion will need to happen either while milling, or on the drawings.
*Specify tolerances on all drawings
*Is there a cut list?

===[http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Cold_Saw/Build_Instructions/Base_to_Vise Base to Vise]===
* Does the bottom side of Fixed Block need to be machined flat? Same with top of base flat. If so, specify in drawing and instructions.
* Extend baseplate so the swiveling blade mount will always be on plate.
* Need diagram to show where to weld "long spacers"

===[http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Cold_Saw/Build_Instructions/Vise Vise]===
*

Cold Saw/Build Instructions/Fabricability Review

2012-06-22T19:28:49Z

Bkufa: /* General */

2012-06-20T16:25:53Z

Bkufa:

Last Updated 6/20/2012, 11:14am

==Progress==

*Design decisions for Prototype 4 have begun. See [CEB 4 Design Planning].

==Immediate Needs==

*Continue investigating design changes by consulting recent builders: James Slade and Dan Schellenberg
*Begin Sketch-up and CAD of next version
*Illustrate [CEB 4 Design Planning] page, to facilitate collaboration

==Short-term Needs==

*Finish design and seek review
*Get build photos from Dan Schellenberg

FeF welders

2012-05-07T16:48:14Z

Bkufa: Created page with "We currently have 2 Millermatic 200 welders. [http://www.millerwelds.com/om/o1303p_mil.pdf Here] is their manual. The solenoid valves for the gas are broken in both machines. On..."

We currently have 2 Millermatic 200 welders. [http://www.millerwelds.com/om/o1303p_mil.pdf Here] is their manual.

The solenoid valves for the gas are broken in both machines. On the part, it says it is part # 116 996. However, after calling the local airgas, we found out the new PN is 218421.