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	<id>https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/api.php?action=feedcontributions&amp;feedformat=atom&amp;user=Colin</id>
	<title>Open Source Ecology - User contributions [en]</title>
	<link rel="self" type="application/atom+xml" href="https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/api.php?action=feedcontributions&amp;feedformat=atom&amp;user=Colin"/>
	<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/Special:Contributions/Colin"/>
	<updated>2026-05-10T21:36:25Z</updated>
	<subtitle>User contributions</subtitle>
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	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Talk:Electrical_energy_storage&amp;diff=29266</id>
		<title>Talk:Electrical energy storage</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Talk:Electrical_energy_storage&amp;diff=29266"/>
		<updated>2011-05-25T05:28:37Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Colin: Created page with &amp;quot;Energy storage by compression: I&amp;#039;m assuming you&amp;#039;re speaking of compressing air, or some other gas to store energy.  The issue is how you &amp;quot;compress&amp;quot; it.  There&amp;#039;s isothermal compre...&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;Energy storage by compression:&lt;br /&gt;
I&#039;m assuming you&#039;re speaking of compressing air, or some other gas to store energy.  The issue is how you &amp;quot;compress&amp;quot; it.  There&#039;s isothermal compression, adiabatic, and isobaric.  No process will exactly fit any of these, but some have greater entropy increase than others.  Whichever process produces the smallest change in entropy will result in the greatest fraction of energy stored.  I don&#039;t remember exactly which it would be, but I am assuming adiabatic, as the greatest work on the gas would be done in that case, and so this should mean the greatest increase in the internal energy of the system for a particular amount of energy put in.  This is just my two cents. [[User:Colin|Colin]] 22:28, 24 May 2011 (PDT)&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Colin</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Talk:Nickel-Iron_Battery&amp;diff=29265</id>
		<title>Talk:Nickel-Iron Battery</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Talk:Nickel-Iron_Battery&amp;diff=29265"/>
		<updated>2011-05-25T05:18:47Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Colin: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;On toxicity and other safety concerns:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Nickel oxide/hyroxide is indeed toxic, but as it would be contained in a battery, it seems this is likely the best place for such a substance to be.  Basic safety protocol should keep anyone who should have to handle the battery and/or its components safe from harm.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Lye isn&#039;t &#039;toxic&#039; it&#039;s caustic and corrosive.  Either way, it doesn&#039;t get along with the body very well. However, once built, the lye will be diluted in a solution (ideally of glycerol), and so there shouldn&#039;t be much danger at all associated with the battery once built.  However, utmost caution should be exercised when mixing the electrolyte (which shouldn&#039;t be a problem if waste glycerine from biodiesel production is used).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Unfortunately, nickel is also a strategic metal, which does add to its cost, but further research may point the way to better localized sources.  Of course, this shouldn&#039;t be an issue as each 1kWh battery has a one time cost of 2kg nickel (as is explained in the page).  All in all, I think NiFe chemistry is about the safest practical battery that could be constructed.  &lt;br /&gt;
[[User:Colin|Colin]] 14:45, 16 May 2011 (PDT)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
-----&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Feel free to edit the section I added on toxicity, I just wanted to make sure that something was there.  Yes, lye is corrosive, but I do agree that handled correctly, it can be safe.  We might want to add links/comments to the effect that lye can be made from wood ashes.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You might want to do a bit of sourcing for nickel.  I wonder how much it costs. - [[Mark J Norton]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I was curious, so I did a quick search and ran the numbers myself.  $251.50 for 2kg of nickel. - 5/16/11 at 9:05pm PDT&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
-----&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
On sources of nickel:  because of cost, I have been thinking about the best starting material for nickel.  It seems best to me to start with nickel hydroxide mixed in with the electrolyte, in the appropriate concentration.  A small amount of something like nickel nitrate might be needed to provide a thin coat of nickel metal, but I think that the hydroxide by itself should work.  In either case, it makes the most sense to start with nickel, and treat it with the appropriate acids and bases to get the form we want.  This way, we could even start with nickel shavings, ingots, blanks, or any other form of nickel. [[User:Colin|Colin]] 20:47, 24 May 2011 (PDT)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Let me elaborate on the above.  The construction technique I&#039;m envisioning for this battery involves a number of plates, all made from relatively thin sheet steel.  Half of which would be plated by nickel oxyhydroxide in the first charging cycle, forming the cathode of each 1.2V cell.  The steel should be carbon steel with minimal to no content of other metal.  I intend on writing this into the article, but I think that it needs graphics to go along.  So, the idea is that the sheets which will be the electrodes would have a tab cut out of a corner with the cnc torch table.  Then, these sheets will be placed with the remaining tab (like a tab on a folder) of each plate alternating in a cell.  This leaves two sets of &#039;tabs,&#039; one set will be for the anode, and the other for the cathode.  With this design, two long steel bars can be welded to the exposed tabs, which should allow for high current capacity, resilience, and rigidity in design.  These two bars would be inside the profile of the box when viewing it from the top, so many cells can be placed snugly adjacent to each other, and then welded in series to form a 12V stack.  Such a setup should easily handle the highest loads this battery should be capable of driving. [[User:Colin|Colin]] 20:55, 24 May 2011 (PDT)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I&#039;ve added an mspaint rendition of what such a battery would look like in concept.  If anyone possessing proper CAD skills wants to improve it, please go ahead and replace it. [[User:Colin|Colin]] 22:18, 24 May 2011 (PDT)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
-----&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The added information to the article is greatly appreciated, but tends to be overwhelming.  At this point, I suggest this article is broken into two segments: chemistry and construction details.  Anyone else agree with me? [[User:Colin|Colin]] 21:26, 24 May 2011 (PDT)&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Colin</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=File:Nife_childsplay.png&amp;diff=29263</id>
		<title>File:Nife childsplay.png</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=File:Nife_childsplay.png&amp;diff=29263"/>
		<updated>2011-05-25T04:57:54Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Colin: This is a crude example of a high-capacity, simple construction, highly resilient NiFe 12V battery whose construction makes use of existing OSE infrastructure.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;This is a crude example of a high-capacity, simple construction, highly resilient NiFe 12V battery whose construction makes use of existing OSE infrastructure.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Colin</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Nickel-Iron_Battery&amp;diff=29262</id>
		<title>Nickel-Iron Battery</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Nickel-Iron_Battery&amp;diff=29262"/>
		<updated>2011-05-25T04:56:32Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Colin: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{under construction}}&lt;br /&gt;
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nickel_iron_battery&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Basic Concepts Behind Construction==&lt;br /&gt;
The electrochemistry of a Nickel iron battery is similar to a NiCd or NiMH battery in that nickel oxyhydroxide is used as a cathode, but iron is used instead of the toxic metal complexes in NiCd and most NiMH batteries as the anode.  During discharge, both metals turn into their hydroxide forms: Ni(OH)2 and Fe(OH)2. (see the wikipedia article under electrochemistry). It should be possible to build it in a discharged state, combining the appropriate hydroxides of Nickel and Iron. Alternatively, the battery could be constructed out of metallic nickel and iron, and the nickel could be converted to NiOOH or Ni(OH)2 in situ through oxidization with ozone or peroxide and UV or some other means.  (We will definitely need someone who knows some chemistry and is willing to put in some time at at least several stages in this development process.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==First test==&lt;br /&gt;
A sample concrete cell was tested, but no practical benefit is achieved using concrete as an electrolyte, as to be effective, the entire cell must be submerged, and the electrical conductivity of cement is far too high when submerged.  A new design is in the works for a cell which would use raw glycerine (glycerol) as a byproduct of biodiesel production, thus improving the ecologies of both systems.  The rationale is that the lye (KOH or NaOH) which &#039;contaminates&#039; the glycerine should prove to be an effective electrolyte, and the glycerine itself should support a more stable cell. (Glycerine will evaporate much more slowly than water, and due to higher viscosity, should even further improve vibration-resistance of the cell.  Ideally, this design could even be adapted to portable units.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Proposed prototype==&lt;br /&gt;
Rather than mess too much with potentially difficult electrode geometries (sintered, meshes, &#039;cloth&#039;) I propose a simple solution which fits quite nicely into the project ecology.  Please excuse the horrendous sketch, as I&#039;ve not developed any cad skills yet, but here is a suggested design which calls for sheet steel, bar-stock, some kind of container, and nickel hydroxide to build a discharged cell.  This design makes use of the cnc plasma cutter to produce a set of thin &#039;tabbed&#039; plates for the battery.  Relatively high current density is achieved by using thinner plates, and the limited current delivery serves as a self-protection mechanism.  Sheets are cut to resemble the profile of a tabbed business folder, then every other sheet is flipped.  The encasing for the battery will contain grooves along the sides into which the plates will slide.  Holes will be cut into the plates to both modestly increase surface area and allow the electrolyte solution to move and conduct throughout the cell.  Once assembled, the cell should have two rows of raised &#039;tabs&#039; to each of which will be welded a piece of barstock to provide a common, high-current rail.  Note, neither copper nor aluminum is used here in an effort to limit galvanic corrosion outside the cell. 10 of these cells should be arranged into two rows of five, and connected in series to achieve a single 12V battery.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:nife_childsplay.png]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Preliminary Figures for a 12V, 1kWh pile==&lt;br /&gt;
NiFe cells produce a working potential of 1.2V, and charge at 1.4V.  A 12V battery would then consist of 10 cells, and charge at 14V which is typical for most &amp;quot;12V&amp;quot; batteries.  To achieve 1kWh capacity, we will need 1000W/12V = ~85Ah.  This means that each cell will need to provide 85Ah capacity.  This corresponds to 306,000C, which is approximately 3.17 moles of electrons. Sheet steel will form a base material for the electrodes, so iron is not a limiting factor.  Nickel&#039;s electrochemistry in an NiFe battery indicates a 1:1 molar ratio, so 3.17 moles of nickel will be required.  This is about 185g of Ni at a molar mass of 58.69g/mole.  For a &#039;safety&#039; margin, we will round up to 200g.  At 200g Ni per cell, a total of 2kg of nickel will be needed for a 1kWh unit.  The actual capacity of this cell based on the rounded values above would be 1095.8Wh.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Environmental Aspects==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
All batteries (at least the ones in common use) are toxic to a greater or lesser extent.  The NiFe Battery isn&#039;t an exception, but it is far less toxic than Cadmium-based batteries.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Iron is non-toxic and commonly available.&lt;br /&gt;
* Nickel Oxide is toxic.  The Appropriate Technology Collaborative is investigating toxicity [http://apptechdesign.org/].&lt;br /&gt;
* The lye electrolyte is caustic and corrosive, but perhaps could be used in small amounts.&lt;br /&gt;
* Suspending the lye in glycerin also mitigates effects.&lt;br /&gt;
* Glycerin is a by-product of creating bio-diesel, thus using a waste of a different process.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Sources==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
FusionBeads [http://www.fusionbeads.com/shop/product/48723/] 3&amp;quot;x3&amp;quot; 24 gauge nickel sheet is $3.25.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Metric:  76.2x76.2mm and 0.5mm thick.  The density of nickel is 8.902 g/cm3.  2903.22 mm3 which is 2.90 cm3.  Thus, each sheet weights 25.84g.  2000g (2kg required as above) is 77.38 sheets.  $251.50 is the cost of 2kg of nickel.  Actually, it can be gotten cheaper in these quantities, but this is an outside number.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
We need to look into purchasing in bulk as it is far cheaper than this sheet, although sheet could be used for electrode material.  Those guys must be making generous profit to say the least.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are several ways to make the nickel electrode which require different raw materials. See electrode sections for details.  In short there are established ways which use metallic nickel, oxyhydroxide, nickel oxide (NiO2 I think), nickel nitrate and potentially other salts, and maybe the hydroxide.   Which material will be needed can be chosen on price, availability and the ease of the associated manufacturing technique.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A look on alibaba indicates that the nickel compounds may be substantially cheaper than the metal.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Price of Nickel and Iron==&lt;br /&gt;
http://www.indexmundi.com/commodities/?commodity=nickel  price is very roughly $23 per kg.  Pretty good really.&lt;br /&gt;
http://www.steelonthenet.com/commodity_prices.html  price $0.60 per kg for scrap steel, presumably pure iron would be in that range.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
From the electrochemistry figures above for a 1 kWh unit, that would be $48 or so on metals.  So 20 Wh per $ ($0.05 per Wh). Even the cheapest lead acid batteries are 7 Wh per $.  In reality they are more like 4.   So the good news it that materials cost should not sink the ship anyway, although I&#039;m sure all the other costs for the perforated pocket, assembly etc. will add up plenty fast.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Toxicity==&lt;br /&gt;
Nickel itself that is the concern rather than any particular compound.  Water soluble compounds are unsurprisingly much more of a concern than metal that is bound in solid objects like nickel plating or some types of stainless steel, since it is more bioavailable and can be spread and spilled more easily.  At low levels of exposure talking in terms of nickel content is done.  But of course the exact solubility and other factors has a substantial effect on the exact toxicity at higher levels of different water soluble compounds too, note the ld50 is 10x lower for nickel chloride as for nickel oxyhydroxide according to the documents below, so the expedient of speaking in terms of nickel content doesn&#039;t always work that well.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that nickel hydroxide, oxide and oxyhydroxide are all considered &amp;quot;insoluble&amp;quot; although obviously the chemistry here depends on them being at least a bit soluble.  But that increases the safety margin a bit.  It may be substantially higher under these alkali conditions though.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Still all metals are toxic to some degree including iron and we need some numbers to make an informed decision.  Preferably a solid evaluation of dose response relationship, and if the batteries are to be widely adopted now is the time to factor in chronic exposure too.   It needs to be considered not in a vacuum but relative to other options available.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
higher quality :&lt;br /&gt;
http://jas.fass.org/cgi/content/abstract/28/5/620&lt;br /&gt;
http://www.annclinlabsci.org/cgi/content/abstract/11/2/119&lt;br /&gt;
http://www.hpa.org.uk/web/HPAwebFile/HPAweb_C/1236757324101 l&lt;br /&gt;
http://www.epa.gov/iris/subst/0271.htm&lt;br /&gt;
https://fscimage.fishersci.com/msds/53189.htm &lt;br /&gt;
http://www.nickelinstitute.org/index.cfm/ci_id/13029/la_id/safe_use_guide_5.cfm.htm&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
unknown due to lack of access:&lt;br /&gt;
http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/19888907&lt;br /&gt;
http://www.annclinlabsci.org/cgi/content/abstract/7/5/377  &lt;br /&gt;
Low quality:&lt;br /&gt;
http://www.crios.be/Nickel/toxicology.htm &lt;br /&gt;
material safety datasheets with information regarding nickel oxyhydroxide, clearly it is sometimes used as a material in NiMH, in fact most of the hits are datasheets for such batteries rather than the material itself:&lt;br /&gt;
http://www.rdbatteries.net/Data/Panasonic_NiMH_Info.pdf&lt;br /&gt;
http://www.chiefsupply.com/resources/msds/Moto-NiCd.pdf&lt;br /&gt;
http://www.batteriesplus.com/msds/Duracell_Nickel_Oxyhydroxide_%20Batteries_NorthAmericaMSDS.pdf  (as if companies would give accurate information on their own products)&lt;br /&gt;
http://www.it.pg.com/productsafety/msds/fabric_and_homecare/duracell/Duracell_Nickel_Oxyhydroxide_Batteries_(North_America_MSDS).pdf&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that the permissible exposure limits (PEL) for the material  is about a fifth that of graphite, which we know is not too toxic though it might accumulate in the lungs I guess.  Still there are a lot of variables there as most particles inhaled are not retained, depends on size etc etc.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Obviously the LD50 is quite low at 1000 mg/kg range.  But that means little in terms of what happens at lower levels.  For Chloride it seems to be in the 100 mg/kg range.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
http://www.osha.gov/SLTC/healthguidelines/nickelsolublecompounds/recognition.html  They fail to say dosages in critical places, this information is actually low quality.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
nickel chloride:&lt;br /&gt;
http://www.sciencelab.com/xMSDS-Nickel_chloride-9926213&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
oxide:http://www.inchem.org/documents/ukpids/ukpids/ukpid70.htm&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
From Dietary information perspective:&lt;br /&gt;
http://iom.edu/Activities/Nutrition/SummaryDRIs/~/media/Files/Activity%20Files/Nutrition/DRIs/ULs%20for%20Vitamins%20and%20Elements.pdf&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;quot;A Tolerable Upper Intake Level (UL) is the highest level of daily nutrient intake that is likely to pose no risk of adverse health effects to almost all individuals in the general population. Unless otherwise&lt;br /&gt;
specified, the UL represents total intake from food, water, and supplements.&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
1 milligram per day for nickel, 40 for iron. Well that&#039;s to totally zero adverse effect level and there&#039;s probably plenty of room for more there.  Nickel is probably available as a dietary supplement, I wonder what happens when people take too much.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
http://www.eoearth.org/article/Public_Health_Statement_for_Nickel case report little more than half way down of people drinking 250 mg/liter (250 ppm) nickel &lt;br /&gt;
welding, relevant to pocket production:&lt;br /&gt;
http://www.crios.be/Welding/toxicology.htm Maybe it woudl be better to make the pockets without welding. Folding perforated sheets cleverly, sewing with nickel wire etc. plenty of other options that should be fine .&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
As usual it is difficult to obtain quality information on a health issue and it is very time consuming to wade through the crap and get some answers.  Case reports, vague qualitative statements, contradictions, and paywalls, are the norm.  Ideally a table of dose-response relationships for a range of different people over a wide range of doses would be obtained but whatever.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In summary it looks like it is certainly less problematic than lead or mercury, gloves, ladling or scooping rather than pouring dry materials, and working outside would more than suffice for me personally.  Spills of solutions and especially powders should be prevented.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Sticking points and contributions imminently needed==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
We need to obtain the documents with the titles below.  They are almost all available through sciencedirect.com, just search the titles. Linking to them directly is not possible because of the way they do the URLs. &#039;&#039;&#039; If you can obtain these in some way, please do so without delay.&#039;&#039;&#039; I suggest temporarily changing your browser&#039;s default download folder to a new folder to fill up or something for efficiency.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Then these can be legally shared by e.g. zippyshare.com with other developers who ask for a copy under the fair use doctrine.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
We basically want all papers that mention nickel iron specifically and most of the others that relate to battery electrodes made from nickel oxyhydroxide(very frequently referred to as only &amp;quot;hydroxide&amp;quot; in the context of NiMH especially), and metallic iron and/or iron oxides.  The electrode ones may not mention &amp;quot;nickel iron&amp;quot; per se because e.g. a good iron electrode can also be used in several other battery chemistries. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
-To produce a battery that is economical, relatively easy to make, and which works to satisfaction (~0.2C, equal to or greater than 60% round trip efficiency) with efficient use of prototyping time, we need this information. I volunteer to read them all and come up with a plan for the next prototype(s) but do not have access.  I can go back and get the full citations if they are for some reason needed. -Gregor&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Most important:&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Assessment of performance characteristics of the nickel---iron cell &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
SECONDARY BATTERIES - NICKEL SYSTEMS  Nickel–Iron&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
SECONDARY BATTERIES - NICKEL SYSTEMS Electrodes: Nickel &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
SECONDARY BATTERIES - NICKEL SYSTEMS&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
SECONDARY BATTERIES - NICKEL SYSTEMS Electrodes: Iron  &lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
The nickel/iron battery         &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A nickel-iron battery with roll-compacted iron electrodes &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Developmental studies on porous iron electrodes for the nickel---iron cell &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The electrochemical generation of ferrate at pressed iron powder electrode: comparison with a foil electrode&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
6V, 60Ah nickel-iron battery.&lt;br /&gt;
[http://md1.csa.com/partners/viewrecord.php?requester=gs&amp;amp;collection=TRD&amp;amp;recid=2274533EA]&lt;br /&gt;
Bulletin of Electrochemistry. Vol. 6, no. 2, pp. 263-265. 1990  &amp;lt;--- not available through sciencedirect.com&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Less important but still highly desirable:&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
The role of FeS and (NH4)2CO3 additives on the pressed type Fe electrode 	&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Passivation of iron in alkaline carbonate solutions &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Electrochemical characteristics of iron carbide as an active material in alkaline batteries&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
­Temperature limitations of primary and secondary alkaline battery electrodes&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
97/03847 Performance characterization of sintered iron electrodes in nickel/iron alkaline batteries&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Nickel-based rechargeable batteries &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Performance characterization of sintered iron electrodes in  nickel/iron alkaline batteries&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
On the key importance of homogeneity in the electrochemical performance of industrial positive &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
active materials in nickel batteries&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Electrochemical behaviour of Teflon-bonded iron oxide electrodes in alkaline solutions&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
Rechargeable alkaline iron electrodes &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Performance characterization of sintered iron electrodes in nickel/iron alkaline batteries &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Role of activation on the performance of the iron negative electrode in nickel/iron cells &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Rechargeable alkaline iron electrodes &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Iron/carbon-black composite nanoparticles as an iron electrode material in a paste type &lt;br /&gt;
rechargeable alkaline battery&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Research, development and demonstration of a nickel—iron battery for electric vehicle propulsion  there are several papers with this term&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The role of FeS and (NH4)2CO3 additives on the pressed type Fe electrode&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are some less important ones on the research page.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Future Prototypes==&lt;br /&gt;
It looks as though using a high surface area electrode made from nickel or another conductive material which is acceptable from a chemistry standpoint, then causing the oxyhydroxide to deposit on it electrochemically could be done. But there are a great many ways to make the electrodes, and some may be more suitable.  A great number of patents are available with what look like better options. See the research page for links.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that in electrochemistry the cathode is the electrode to which cations are attracted.  In other words the positive electrode, when when talking about the exterior of the battery could be called the anode. This is due to historical reasons.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
All of them include some &amp;quot;plaque&amp;quot; or conductive matrix with fairly high surface area which extends throughout the active material.  Nickel sponge, sintered nickel powder, and nickel fabric cloth like material, have been used.  A polymer binder loaded with graphite or other carbon particles which is then pyrolized can be made, with the pyrolized polymer being the conductive grid. Polymer binders (not pyrolized) filled with conductive particles are often used in modern batteries. The mix is made, then pressed with great force onto a nickle grid or cloth.  The polymer mix material can also be applied to a thin textured sheet of metal. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Fine flakes (&amp;quot;flitts&amp;quot;) or fibers of nickel metal can be mixed with active material, pressed into a block, and heated to melt or diffusion bond the flakes/fibers together, producing a conductive matrix surrounded by active (powdered) oxyhydroxide. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Nickel wool or other low density fibrous masses of conductive material which are chemically acceptable might do as well.  It is stated in patents that nickel plated steel wool works well.  In this case the active material has to be applied in a paste or though more complex means like electrodeposition, in which the active material is precipitated by electrolysis in the electrode volume.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The so called pocket electrode is still used in modern batteries and is relatively easy; conductive powder or fibers or flakes (graphite, nickel or nickel cobalt alloy) are mixed with the active material and pressed into &amp;quot;pockets&amp;quot; formed from perforated metal sheets. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For the iron electrode high surface area solid iron electrode may be used plain or with small amounts of something to provide sulfide ions like magnesium sulfide, iron sulfide or ever elemental sulfur, to cause activation of the electrode (removal of the iron monxide layer as the sulfur is more electronegative than the iron).  For high purity powder like carbonyl iron the sulfide needs to be added.  Otherwise it is often present in high enough amounts for some batteries as an impurity (see other reactions section).  The appropriate surface area of both electrodes which will give a reasonably low internal resistance needs to be calculated or tested.  References indicate it should be on the order of 10 meters per gram, which may correspond to roughly 10 micron average particle size.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Loose powder is not ever used, because the conductivity between particles is too low. In the the case of the nickel electrode, they must be at least pressed together (pocket type) or surrounded with a fine conductive matrix (e.g. 10-100 micron fibers with voids 100 to 200 microns apart in which the conductive material consumes 10 to 30 percent of the volume of the electrode) and have quite small size area and then during the initial charge/discharge cycles they tend to bond together so the bulk conductivity of the mass increases to an acceptable level (pasted).  This is because the nickel oxyhydroxide is not very conductive (see other reactions section).  Nickel hydroxide is even less conductive (how much?). This may help to explain why the electrodes are rarely loaded with the hydroxide initially, as the lower conductivity combined with the poor level of inter-particle contact before the particles are bonded together would make the initial charge/discharge cycles take that much longer.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In at least one of the Edison batteries he chose to use mercury to increase the conductivity between iron particles but that may have been a battery intended for Starting and lighting (SLI) in cars, which requires a very low internal resistance as discharge rates can exceed 20C during starting.  We need no more than 1C or at most 2C (lithium ion are 2C or so usually) for general use and short term load leveling, and 0.1 may do (just) for solar power system energy storage.  If we did need high currents sintered electrodes would be more sensible.  Commercial batteries like the Changhong batteries intended for solar use are rated for 0.2 C but they make batteries capable of 10C for starting locomotives too.  The C ratings are only guidelines however and can be exceeded greatly at cost of efficiency and energy that can be used - 6 C produces a capacity of 65% rated capacity for the battery in the sealed battery testing doc.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It needs to be determined exactly how the changing shape of the electrode goes. Over time the electrode shape could change in undesirable ways, reducing surface area and increasing the battery&#039;s internal resistance to an excessive value.  It appears that this occurs to a relatively small degree in nickel iron batteries, and in fact this is mainly what gives them their much longer life compared with other batteries.  Mostly it is limited by the very low solubility of the reactants and reaction products, they cannot travel far in the electrolyte before being redeposited (precipitating out of solution).  In fact the nickel electrode reactions are thought to occur almost all in the solid state.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This is one of the reasons deep discharging of lead acid is a problem.  Although there are many different types of lead acid battery there is usually alloy of antimony and lead used to form the electrode scaffold for one or both electrodes, which reacts more slowly than the lead that is supposed to cover it.  But if discharged too deeply the scaffold will react too, and it cannot be reformed in the shape it was, rendering the battery damaged.  Similarly during recharge some battery types form dendrites from one electrode to another - thin shafts of metal.  As the finger of metal protrudes towards the opposing electrode the resistance between the tip of the finger and the opposing electrode gets lower, resulting in a higher current at the tip of the dendrite, causing metal to be preferentially deposited at the tip of it, lengthening it until it touches the opposite electrode, shorting the battery.  Clearly over many charge/discharge cycles the cumulative effects that result from the relative effect size of these processes can cause substantial changes in electrode shape if they are not understood and accounted for.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In the nickel iron battery the fact that this occurs very little allows the iron electrode metal scaffold (plaque, current collector) to be made of the reactant itsself.  The surface can get converted to the reaction product and back again many times without changing the shape of the internal iron structure.  Usually, if you did this with e.g. a zinc anode the zinc would get out of shape pretty fast due to dendrite growth etc. and become useless.  A sintered block with 3 to 4 times the amount of iron than stoichiometric is typical, so 1/3 to 1/4 of the iron is used in each full charge/discharge.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In patents it appears to be universally assumed that for both electrodes, if they have a high surface area at manufacture they continue to have a high surface area thereafter so this may not be a problem.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Other important reactions in the cell=&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you want a good battery rather than a poor one, the side reactions and other reactions in the cell are the most critical factor, with the only second being electrode geometry/design.  They are a fundamental part of battery design.  These exclude the reactions that contribute to the output electrical energy to the cell.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
These are what sap energy away, leading to poor efficiency and high self discharge, and partly what limits battery life.   Some of them are used to counteract the undesirable ones.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are others that need to be learned from the documents listed in the sticking points section.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
-self discharge due to oxidization by dissolved o2 (pretty small in magnitude)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
-and the iron being anaerobically attacked by water, about 1000 times larger in magnitude than the oxidation due to dissolved o2.  This is the main reason the battery has such a high self discharge rate.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
- self discharge at the nickel electrode need to check the mechanisms/reactions again probably relatively low since it is in nimh and nicad despite the same reactants present.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
-corrosion of the metallic mes h by electrolyte, this may be one of the lifetime-limiting reactions that increases with temperature.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
-oxidization of sulfide to sulfate and it&#039;s ensuing accumulation on the surface of the iron electrode, increasing internal resistance.  Sulfate is also needed to keep the iron electrode active so when it is used up the battery dies.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
-accumulation of sulfur on the surface of the iron electrode esp. at lower temperatures and high discharge rates.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
-deposition of iron in the nickel compound crystal structure &amp;lt;--needs more research&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
-oxidization of the surface of metallic flitts to low conductivity nickel oxide.&lt;br /&gt;
edison had a problem with nonconductive layer on the flitts forming didn&#039;t know what it was maybe explained in later patents.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
-carbonate and the other one in the battery hadnbook undesirable ions &amp;lt;-- need to add those other ones.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
probably all kinds of minor undesirable contaminants, edison mentiones manganese , high purity iron like carbonyl iron is often used same for nickel electrode.  Howevetr this may be expensive&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
lithium hydroxide apparently improves the thermodynamic reversibility of reactions and slows down the iron poisoning of the nickel elecrode maybe this indicates longer life and higher charge/discharge efficiency , we need a chemisty who can identify other ways of improving esp the charg/discharge efficiency by identifying other acceptable additives that might work.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
-evolution of gasses at the nickel electrodes during charging, this could play into the ow efficiency but may only be commesurate with other prerequisite reactions at the iron electrode and unpreventable in themselves. Another contributor to low charge/discharge efficiency maybe.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
- Evolution of gasses at electrode during periods when a charged battery sit there for future use (charge-stand), again in conjunction with prerequisite activity at the iron electrode. Another cause of self discharge.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
-The air interface one that causes oxidization of the nickel metal and/or active material(?) of the electrode when there is an interface with the electrolyte and air, nickel electrode needs to be submerged.  Another cause of self discharge if not  designed right, plus could corrode the nickel possibly leading to failure.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Need to add references but should have the sci docs first or will take forever and be low quality refs anyway.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Additives=&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
- cobalt hydroxide is used to improve conductivity of the nickel electrode either by adding it to the nickel oxyhydroxide at manufacture or into the powder after, by e.g. coating the particle electrolytically to give them a higher effective conductivity without interfering with their reactivity too much (it does reduce it a little though so again there will be an optimum amount).  It can also help to increase the fraction of active material that is utilized.  1 to 5% of the active material mass may be used for this.  We probably want to avoid bothering with this.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
- cobalt to the metallic mesh, function needs to be checked, probably to improve contact resistance and reduce oxidization of the mesh and maybe reduce corrosion rate by electrolyte.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Other factors affecting performance=&lt;br /&gt;
At low temperatures with some iron electrode designs sulfur can accumulate on the iron electrode and increase internal resistance (designs which incorporate elemental sulfur, patents indicate this can be rectified by using a sulfide salt of low solubility like iron sulfide FeS).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The conductivity of the electrolyte goes down as the temp goes up.  This is desirable but other undesirable reactions increase in rate at higher temps so there is a compromise there.  Also this is one of the main mechanisms that can lead to thermal runaway during constant voltage charging as it can form a positive feedback loop.  The solution is to just not use constant voltage charging, which is easy.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The fraction of the battery that is actually active material, and the fraction of material that is available for actual use all vary quite substantially with the design of the electrodes, and the amount of electrolyte added etc. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The factors like the energy to weight ratio and power to weight will of course tend to be affected by any non-reactant materials used to e.g. reduce cost etc, but fortunately those are of little importance in the context of OSE.  Basically we want to produce something that can replace lead acid which is cheaper, easier to work with and make and maintain, more durable with abuse and longer lasting, and not as bad for the environment.  Ideally both for starting lighting ignition (SLI) batteries and also storage.  Batteries described in documents can handle 6C and more without seriously hard to manufacture materials and additives so SLI is definitely an option.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=factors affecting cost=&lt;br /&gt;
Not all of the active material actually gets used in the electrode.  Obviously we want it to be high in the nickel electrode in particular because the cost of the material is high.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In the Edison cell the fraction of mass utilized can be calculated from the weights and composition of the electrodes Edison gives in the patents and this should be done.  It can be increased with the addition of conductive carbon (like graphite) particles to the active material.  Documents indicate that the homogeneity of the particle sizes is important in pocket cells to increase mass utilization, which should be no surprise as it would entail a smaller number of particles in between the gaps of large particles that are not compressed in any way against their neighbors, leading to high contact resistance and therefore low electrical coupling to the current collector.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For pasted electrodes it can be very high for both the iron and the nickel electrodes, patents indicate that it could be 80% without cobalt additive and almost 100% with it for the nickel. Smaller particle sizes and finer denser mesh helps too.  Similar figures apply to the iron but since iron is cheap and nontoxic that will probably not be a deciding factor in the iron electrode design.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For sintered iron electrodes it is typically 1/3 or 1/4 of the total mass.  The rest forms the conductive matrix of the current collector.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
 If the active material or a precursor that is later converted the the active material (like nickel oxide, probably NiO) is added before sintering the current collector that would need to be checked, but it would likely be high.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
With electrodeposition and molten salt it should be very high.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For the nickel electrode the amount of conductive metallic material used (if metal is used, carbon works too) is typically 30% to 10 by volume of the electrode, so this will have a significant impact on cost if it is solid nickel.  This may be a good reason to use a nickel plated steel wool current collector.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Notes on interpreting patents and other documentation=&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Chemists have a terrible habit of interchanging the names of compounds as if they were synonyms based on family relations, and glossing over details.  Nickel Oxyhydroxide  if often referred to as nickel hydroxide in this context. Incidentally so is actual nickel hydroxide, which can get confusing for someone with limited knowledge of the art.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
 A nickel-iron battery likewise may use not just iron as the negative electrode but can also make use of the higher iron oxides like Fe3O4 (ferric oxide) called iron oxide as a reactant (need to check details on this).  Similarly FeO (ferrous oxide or iron monoxide) is a problem in the batteries but is likewise called iron oxide.   Similarly there are many nickel oxides and the name is often used to refer to several.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are also several different reactions that are important to contribute output energy in the battery, not just the one on the wikipedia page.  (need to add details)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Related pages==&lt;br /&gt;
http://openfarmtech.org/wiki/Batteries&lt;br /&gt;
http://openfarmtech.org/wiki/Nickel-Iron_Battery/Research&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Colin</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Hob&amp;diff=29261</id>
		<title>Hob</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Hob&amp;diff=29261"/>
		<updated>2011-05-25T04:41:30Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Colin: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{under construction}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hobbing&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This article is intended to go with [[Involute Gear]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The process of cutting a gear calls for either an involute cutter or a gear hob. The advantage of a hob is that it can easily be cut from carbon or tool steel on a lathe and milling machine.  Once cut, the hob is then heat treated (even mildly will suffice) so that it can more easily cut the gear material.  There are a few types of hobs, namely helical and what I will, for lack of machining experience, call a parallel hob. Out of simplicity, this article will focus on the so-called &#039;parallel hob&#039; as it can be used on a standard vertical mill and doesn&#039;t require a hobbing mill.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Colin</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Talk:Nickel-Iron_Battery&amp;diff=29260</id>
		<title>Talk:Nickel-Iron Battery</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Talk:Nickel-Iron_Battery&amp;diff=29260"/>
		<updated>2011-05-25T04:26:12Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Colin: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;On toxicity and other safety concerns:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Nickel oxide/hyroxide is indeed toxic, but as it would be contained in a battery, it seems this is likely the best place for such a substance to be.  Basic safety protocol should keep anyone who should have to handle the battery and/or its components safe from harm.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Lye isn&#039;t &#039;toxic&#039; it&#039;s caustic and corrosive.  Either way, it doesn&#039;t get along with the body very well. However, once built, the lye will be diluted in a solution (ideally of glycerol), and so there shouldn&#039;t be much danger at all associated with the battery once built.  However, utmost caution should be exercised when mixing the electrolyte (which shouldn&#039;t be a problem if waste glycerine from biodiesel production is used).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Unfortunately, nickel is also a strategic metal, which does add to its cost, but further research may point the way to better localized sources.  Of course, this shouldn&#039;t be an issue as each 1kWh battery has a one time cost of 2kg nickel (as is explained in the page).  All in all, I think NiFe chemistry is about the safest practical battery that could be constructed.  &lt;br /&gt;
[[User:Colin|Colin]] 14:45, 16 May 2011 (PDT)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
-----&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Feel free to edit the section I added on toxicity, I just wanted to make sure that something was there.  Yes, lye is corrosive, but I do agree that handled correctly, it can be safe.  We might want to add links/comments to the effect that lye can be made from wood ashes.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You might want to do a bit of sourcing for nickel.  I wonder how much it costs. - [[Mark J Norton]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I was curious, so I did a quick search and ran the numbers myself.  $251.50 for 2kg of nickel. - 5/16/11 at 9:05pm PDT&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
-----&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
On sources of nickel:  because of cost, I have been thinking about the best starting material for nickel.  It seems best to me to start with nickel hydroxide mixed in with the electrolyte, in the appropriate concentration.  A small amount of something like nickel nitrate might be needed to provide a thin coat of nickel metal, but I think that the hydroxide by itself should work.  In either case, it makes the most sense to start with nickel, and treat it with the appropriate acids and bases to get the form we want.  This way, we could even start with nickel shavings, ingots, blanks, or any other form of nickel. [[User:Colin|Colin]] 20:47, 24 May 2011 (PDT)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Let me elaborate on the above.  The construction technique I&#039;m envisioning for this battery involves a number of plates, all made from relatively thin sheet steel.  Half of which would be plated by nickel oxyhydroxide in the first charging cycle, forming the cathode of each 1.2V cell.  The steel should be carbon steel with minimal to no content of other metal.  I intend on writing this into the article, but I think that it needs graphics to go along.  So, the idea is that the sheets which will be the electrodes would have a tab cut out of a corner with the cnc torch table.  Then, these sheets will be placed with the remaining tab (like a tab on a folder) of each plate alternating in a cell.  This leaves two sets of &#039;tabs,&#039; one set will be for the anode, and the other for the cathode.  With this design, two long steel bars can be welded to the exposed tabs, which should allow for high current capacity, resilience, and rigidity in design.  These two bars would be inside the profile of the box when viewing it from the top, so many cells can be placed snugly adjacent to each other, and then welded in series to form a 12V stack.  Such a setup should easily handle the highest loads this battery should be capable of driving. [[User:Colin|Colin]] 20:55, 24 May 2011 (PDT)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
-----&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The added information to the article is greatly appreciated, but tends to be overwhelming.  At this point, I suggest this article is broken into two segments: chemistry and construction details.  Anyone else agree with me? [[User:Colin|Colin]] 21:26, 24 May 2011 (PDT)&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Colin</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Nickel-Iron_Battery&amp;diff=29258</id>
		<title>Nickel-Iron Battery</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Nickel-Iron_Battery&amp;diff=29258"/>
		<updated>2011-05-25T04:23:39Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Colin: /* Preliminary Figures for a 12V, 1kWh pile */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{under construction}}&lt;br /&gt;
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nickel_iron_battery&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Basic Concepts Behind Construction==&lt;br /&gt;
The electrochemistry of a Nickel iron battery is similar to a NiCd or NiMH battery in that nickel oxyhydroxide is used as a cathode, but iron is used instead of the toxic metal complexes in NiCd and most NiMH batteries as the anode.  During discharge, both metals turn into their hydroxide forms: Ni(OH)2 and Fe(OH)2. (see the wikipedia article under electrochemistry). It should be possible to build it in a discharged state, combining the appropriate hydroxides of Nickel and Iron. Alternatively, the battery could be constructed out of metallic nickel and iron, and the nickel could be converted to NiOOH or Ni(OH)2 in situ through oxidization with ozone or peroxide and UV or some other means.  (We will definitely need someone who knows some chemistry and is willing to put in some time at at least several stages in this development process.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==First test==&lt;br /&gt;
A sample concrete cell was tested, but no practical benefit is achieved using concrete as an electrolyte, as to be effective, the entire cell must be submerged, and the electrical conductivity of cement is far too high when submerged.  A new design is in the works for a cell which would use raw glycerine (glycerol) as a byproduct of biodiesel production, thus improving the ecologies of both systems.  The rationale is that the lye (KOH or NaOH) which &#039;contaminates&#039; the glycerine should prove to be an effective electrolyte, and the glycerine itself should support a more stable cell. (Glycerine will evaporate much more slowly than water, and due to higher viscosity, should even further improve vibration-resistance of the cell.  Ideally, this design could even be adapted to portable units.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Preliminary Figures for a 12V, 1kWh pile==&lt;br /&gt;
NiFe cells produce a working potential of 1.2V, and charge at 1.4V.  A 12V battery would then consist of 10 cells, and charge at 14V which is typical for most &amp;quot;12V&amp;quot; batteries.  To achieve 1kWh capacity, we will need 1000W/12V = ~85Ah.  This means that each cell will need to provide 85Ah capacity.  This corresponds to 306,000C, which is approximately 3.17 moles of electrons. Sheet steel will form a base material for the electrodes, so iron is not a limiting factor.  Nickel&#039;s electrochemistry in an NiFe battery indicates a 1:1 molar ratio, so 3.17 moles of nickel will be required.  This is about 185g of Ni at a molar mass of 58.69g/mole.  For a &#039;safety&#039; margin, we will round up to 200g.  At 200g Ni per cell, a total of 2kg of nickel will be needed for a 1kWh unit.  The actual capacity of this cell based on the rounded values above would be 1095.8Wh.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Environmental Aspects==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
All batteries (at least the ones in common use) are toxic to a greater or lesser extent.  The NiFe Battery isn&#039;t an exception, but it is far less toxic than Cadmium-based batteries.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Iron is non-toxic and commonly available.&lt;br /&gt;
* Nickel Oxide is toxic.  The Appropriate Technology Collaborative is investigating toxicity [http://apptechdesign.org/].&lt;br /&gt;
* The lye electrolyte is caustic and corrosive, but perhaps could be used in small amounts.&lt;br /&gt;
* Suspending the lye in glycerin also mitigates effects.&lt;br /&gt;
* Glycerin is a by-product of creating bio-diesel, thus using a waste of a different process.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Sources==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
FusionBeads [http://www.fusionbeads.com/shop/product/48723/] 3&amp;quot;x3&amp;quot; 24 gauge nickel sheet is $3.25.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Metric:  76.2x76.2mm and 0.5mm thick.  The density of nickel is 8.902 g/cm3.  2903.22 mm3 which is 2.90 cm3.  Thus, each sheet weights 25.84g.  2000g (2kg required as above) is 77.38 sheets.  $251.50 is the cost of 2kg of nickel.  Actually, it can be gotten cheaper in these quantities, but this is an outside number.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
We need to look into purchasing in bulk as it is far cheaper than this sheet, although sheet could be used for electrode material.  Those guys must be making generous profit to say the least.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are several ways to make the nickel electrode which require different raw materials. See electrode sections for details.  In short there are established ways which use metallic nickel, oxyhydroxide, nickel oxide (NiO2 I think), nickel nitrate and potentially other salts, and maybe the hydroxide.   Which material will be needed can be chosen on price, availability and the ease of the associated manufacturing technique.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A look on alibaba indicates that the nickel compounds may be substantially cheaper than the metal.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Price of Nickel and Iron==&lt;br /&gt;
http://www.indexmundi.com/commodities/?commodity=nickel  price is very roughly $23 per kg.  Pretty good really.&lt;br /&gt;
http://www.steelonthenet.com/commodity_prices.html  price $0.60 per kg for scrap steel, presumably pure iron would be in that range.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
From the electrochemistry figures above for a 1 kWh unit, that would be $48 or so on metals.  So 20 Wh per $ ($0.05 per Wh). Even the cheapest lead acid batteries are 7 Wh per $.  In reality they are more like 4.   So the good news it that materials cost should not sink the ship anyway, although I&#039;m sure all the other costs for the perforated pocket, assembly etc. will add up plenty fast.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Toxicity==&lt;br /&gt;
Nickel itself that is the concern rather than any particular compound.  Water soluble compounds are unsurprisingly much more of a concern than metal that is bound in solid objects like nickel plating or some types of stainless steel, since it is more bioavailable and can be spread and spilled more easily.  At low levels of exposure talking in terms of nickel content is done.  But of course the exact solubility and other factors has a substantial effect on the exact toxicity at higher levels of different water soluble compounds too, note the ld50 is 10x lower for nickel chloride as for nickel oxyhydroxide according to the documents below, so the expedient of speaking in terms of nickel content doesn&#039;t always work that well.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that nickel hydroxide, oxide and oxyhydroxide are all considered &amp;quot;insoluble&amp;quot; although obviously the chemistry here depends on them being at least a bit soluble.  But that increases the safety margin a bit.  It may be substantially higher under these alkali conditions though.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Still all metals are toxic to some degree including iron and we need some numbers to make an informed decision.  Preferably a solid evaluation of dose response relationship, and if the batteries are to be widely adopted now is the time to factor in chronic exposure too.   It needs to be considered not in a vacuum but relative to other options available.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
higher quality :&lt;br /&gt;
http://jas.fass.org/cgi/content/abstract/28/5/620&lt;br /&gt;
http://www.annclinlabsci.org/cgi/content/abstract/11/2/119&lt;br /&gt;
http://www.hpa.org.uk/web/HPAwebFile/HPAweb_C/1236757324101 l&lt;br /&gt;
http://www.epa.gov/iris/subst/0271.htm&lt;br /&gt;
https://fscimage.fishersci.com/msds/53189.htm &lt;br /&gt;
http://www.nickelinstitute.org/index.cfm/ci_id/13029/la_id/safe_use_guide_5.cfm.htm&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
unknown due to lack of access:&lt;br /&gt;
http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/19888907&lt;br /&gt;
http://www.annclinlabsci.org/cgi/content/abstract/7/5/377  &lt;br /&gt;
Low quality:&lt;br /&gt;
http://www.crios.be/Nickel/toxicology.htm &lt;br /&gt;
material safety datasheets with information regarding nickel oxyhydroxide, clearly it is sometimes used as a material in NiMH, in fact most of the hits are datasheets for such batteries rather than the material itself:&lt;br /&gt;
http://www.rdbatteries.net/Data/Panasonic_NiMH_Info.pdf&lt;br /&gt;
http://www.chiefsupply.com/resources/msds/Moto-NiCd.pdf&lt;br /&gt;
http://www.batteriesplus.com/msds/Duracell_Nickel_Oxyhydroxide_%20Batteries_NorthAmericaMSDS.pdf  (as if companies would give accurate information on their own products)&lt;br /&gt;
http://www.it.pg.com/productsafety/msds/fabric_and_homecare/duracell/Duracell_Nickel_Oxyhydroxide_Batteries_(North_America_MSDS).pdf&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that the permissible exposure limits (PEL) for the material  is about a fifth that of graphite, which we know is not too toxic though it might accumulate in the lungs I guess.  Still there are a lot of variables there as most particles inhaled are not retained, depends on size etc etc.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Obviously the LD50 is quite low at 1000 mg/kg range.  But that means little in terms of what happens at lower levels.  For Chloride it seems to be in the 100 mg/kg range.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
http://www.osha.gov/SLTC/healthguidelines/nickelsolublecompounds/recognition.html  They fail to say dosages in critical places, this information is actually low quality.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
nickel chloride:&lt;br /&gt;
http://www.sciencelab.com/xMSDS-Nickel_chloride-9926213&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
oxide:http://www.inchem.org/documents/ukpids/ukpids/ukpid70.htm&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
From Dietary information perspective:&lt;br /&gt;
http://iom.edu/Activities/Nutrition/SummaryDRIs/~/media/Files/Activity%20Files/Nutrition/DRIs/ULs%20for%20Vitamins%20and%20Elements.pdf&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;quot;A Tolerable Upper Intake Level (UL) is the highest level of daily nutrient intake that is likely to pose no risk of adverse health effects to almost all individuals in the general population. Unless otherwise&lt;br /&gt;
specified, the UL represents total intake from food, water, and supplements.&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
1 milligram per day for nickel, 40 for iron. Well that&#039;s to totally zero adverse effect level and there&#039;s probably plenty of room for more there.  Nickel is probably available as a dietary supplement, I wonder what happens when people take too much.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
http://www.eoearth.org/article/Public_Health_Statement_for_Nickel case report little more than half way down of people drinking 250 mg/liter (250 ppm) nickel &lt;br /&gt;
welding, relevant to pocket production:&lt;br /&gt;
http://www.crios.be/Welding/toxicology.htm Maybe it woudl be better to make the pockets without welding. Folding perforated sheets cleverly, sewing with nickel wire etc. plenty of other options that should be fine .&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
As usual it is difficult to obtain quality information on a health issue and it is very time consuming to wade through the crap and get some answers.  Case reports, vague qualitative statements, contradictions, and paywalls, are the norm.  Ideally a table of dose-response relationships for a range of different people over a wide range of doses would be obtained but whatever.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In summary it looks like it is certainly less problematic than lead or mercury, gloves, ladling or scooping rather than pouring dry materials, and working outside would more than suffice for me personally.  Spills of solutions and especially powders should be prevented.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Sticking points and contributions imminently needed==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
We need to obtain the documents with the titles below.  They are almost all available through sciencedirect.com, just search the titles. Linking to them directly is not possible because of the way they do the URLs. &#039;&#039;&#039; If you can obtain these in some way, please do so without delay.&#039;&#039;&#039; I suggest temporarily changing your browser&#039;s default download folder to a new folder to fill up or something for efficiency.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Then these can be legally shared by e.g. zippyshare.com with other developers who ask for a copy under the fair use doctrine.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
We basically want all papers that mention nickel iron specifically and most of the others that relate to battery electrodes made from nickel oxyhydroxide(very frequently referred to as only &amp;quot;hydroxide&amp;quot; in the context of NiMH especially), and metallic iron and/or iron oxides.  The electrode ones may not mention &amp;quot;nickel iron&amp;quot; per se because e.g. a good iron electrode can also be used in several other battery chemistries. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
-To produce a battery that is economical, relatively easy to make, and which works to satisfaction (~0.2C, equal to or greater than 60% round trip efficiency) with efficient use of prototyping time, we need this information. I volunteer to read them all and come up with a plan for the next prototype(s) but do not have access.  I can go back and get the full citations if they are for some reason needed. -Gregor&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Most important:&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Assessment of performance characteristics of the nickel---iron cell &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
SECONDARY BATTERIES - NICKEL SYSTEMS  Nickel–Iron&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
SECONDARY BATTERIES - NICKEL SYSTEMS Electrodes: Nickel &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
SECONDARY BATTERIES - NICKEL SYSTEMS&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
SECONDARY BATTERIES - NICKEL SYSTEMS Electrodes: Iron  &lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
The nickel/iron battery         &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A nickel-iron battery with roll-compacted iron electrodes &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Developmental studies on porous iron electrodes for the nickel---iron cell &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The electrochemical generation of ferrate at pressed iron powder electrode: comparison with a foil electrode&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
6V, 60Ah nickel-iron battery.&lt;br /&gt;
[http://md1.csa.com/partners/viewrecord.php?requester=gs&amp;amp;collection=TRD&amp;amp;recid=2274533EA]&lt;br /&gt;
Bulletin of Electrochemistry. Vol. 6, no. 2, pp. 263-265. 1990  &amp;lt;--- not available through sciencedirect.com&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Less important but still highly desirable:&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
The role of FeS and (NH4)2CO3 additives on the pressed type Fe electrode 	&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Passivation of iron in alkaline carbonate solutions &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Electrochemical characteristics of iron carbide as an active material in alkaline batteries&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
­Temperature limitations of primary and secondary alkaline battery electrodes&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
97/03847 Performance characterization of sintered iron electrodes in nickel/iron alkaline batteries&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Nickel-based rechargeable batteries &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Performance characterization of sintered iron electrodes in  nickel/iron alkaline batteries&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
On the key importance of homogeneity in the electrochemical performance of industrial positive &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
active materials in nickel batteries&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Electrochemical behaviour of Teflon-bonded iron oxide electrodes in alkaline solutions&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
Rechargeable alkaline iron electrodes &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Performance characterization of sintered iron electrodes in nickel/iron alkaline batteries &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Role of activation on the performance of the iron negative electrode in nickel/iron cells &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Rechargeable alkaline iron electrodes &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Iron/carbon-black composite nanoparticles as an iron electrode material in a paste type &lt;br /&gt;
rechargeable alkaline battery&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Research, development and demonstration of a nickel—iron battery for electric vehicle propulsion  there are several papers with this term&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The role of FeS and (NH4)2CO3 additives on the pressed type Fe electrode&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are some less important ones on the research page.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Future Prototypes==&lt;br /&gt;
It looks as though using a high surface area electrode made from nickel or another conductive material which is acceptable from a chemistry standpoint, then causing the oxyhydroxide to deposit on it electrochemically could be done. But there are a great many ways to make the electrodes, and some may be more suitable.  A great number of patents are available with what look like better options. See the research page for links.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that in electrochemistry the cathode is the electrode to which cations are attracted.  In other words the positive electrode, when when talking about the exterior of the battery could be called the anode. This is due to historical reasons.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
All of them include some &amp;quot;plaque&amp;quot; or conductive matrix with fairly high surface area which extends throughout the active material.  Nickel sponge, sintered nickel powder, and nickel fabric cloth like material, have been used.  A polymer binder loaded with graphite or other carbon particles which is then pyrolized can be made, with the pyrolized polymer being the conductive grid. Polymer binders (not pyrolized) filled with conductive particles are often used in modern batteries. The mix is made, then pressed with great force onto a nickle grid or cloth.  The polymer mix material can also be applied to a thin textured sheet of metal. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Fine flakes (&amp;quot;flitts&amp;quot;) or fibers of nickel metal can be mixed with active material, pressed into a block, and heated to melt or diffusion bond the flakes/fibers together, producing a conductive matrix surrounded by active (powdered) oxyhydroxide. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Nickel wool or other low density fibrous masses of conductive material which are chemically acceptable might do as well.  It is stated in patents that nickel plated steel wool works well.  In this case the active material has to be applied in a paste or though more complex means like electrodeposition, in which the active material is precipitated by electrolysis in the electrode volume.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The so called pocket electrode is still used in modern batteries and is relatively easy; conductive powder or fibers or flakes (graphite, nickel or nickel cobalt alloy) are mixed with the active material and pressed into &amp;quot;pockets&amp;quot; formed from perforated metal sheets. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For the iron electrode high surface area solid iron electrode may be used plain or with small amounts of something to provide sulfide ions like magnesium sulfide, iron sulfide or ever elemental sulfur, to cause activation of the electrode (removal of the iron monxide layer as the sulfur is more electronegative than the iron).  For high purity powder like carbonyl iron the sulfide needs to be added.  Otherwise it is often present in high enough amounts for some batteries as an impurity (see other reactions section).  The appropriate surface area of both electrodes which will give a reasonably low internal resistance needs to be calculated or tested.  References indicate it should be on the order of 10 meters per gram, which may correspond to roughly 10 micron average particle size.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Loose powder is not ever used, because the conductivity between particles is too low. In the the case of the nickel electrode, they must be at least pressed together (pocket type) or surrounded with a fine conductive matrix (e.g. 10-100 micron fibers with voids 100 to 200 microns apart in which the conductive material consumes 10 to 30 percent of the volume of the electrode) and have quite small size area and then during the initial charge/discharge cycles they tend to bond together so the bulk conductivity of the mass increases to an acceptable level (pasted).  This is because the nickel oxyhydroxide is not very conductive (see other reactions section).  Nickel hydroxide is even less conductive (how much?). This may help to explain why the electrodes are rarely loaded with the hydroxide initially, as the lower conductivity combined with the poor level of inter-particle contact before the particles are bonded together would make the initial charge/discharge cycles take that much longer.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In at least one of the Edison batteries he chose to use mercury to increase the conductivity between iron particles but that may have been a battery intended for Starting and lighting (SLI) in cars, which requires a very low internal resistance as discharge rates can exceed 20C during starting.  We need no more than 1C or at most 2C (lithium ion are 2C or so usually) for general use and short term load leveling, and 0.1 may do (just) for solar power system energy storage.  If we did need high currents sintered electrodes would be more sensible.  Commercial batteries like the Changhong batteries intended for solar use are rated for 0.2 C but they make batteries capable of 10C for starting locomotives too.  The C ratings are only guidelines however and can be exceeded greatly at cost of efficiency and energy that can be used - 6 C produces a capacity of 65% rated capacity for the battery in the sealed battery testing doc.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It needs to be determined exactly how the changing shape of the electrode goes. Over time the electrode shape could change in undesirable ways, reducing surface area and increasing the battery&#039;s internal resistance to an excessive value.  It appears that this occurs to a relatively small degree in nickel iron batteries, and in fact this is mainly what gives them their much longer life compared with other batteries.  Mostly it is limited by the very low solubility of the reactants and reaction products, they cannot travel far in the electrolyte before being redeposited (precipitating out of solution).  In fact the nickel electrode reactions are thought to occur almost all in the solid state.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This is one of the reasons deep discharging of lead acid is a problem.  Although there are many different types of lead acid battery there is usually alloy of antimony and lead used to form the electrode scaffold for one or both electrodes, which reacts more slowly than the lead that is supposed to cover it.  But if discharged too deeply the scaffold will react too, and it cannot be reformed in the shape it was, rendering the battery damaged.  Similarly during recharge some battery types form dendrites from one electrode to another - thin shafts of metal.  As the finger of metal protrudes towards the opposing electrode the resistance between the tip of the finger and the opposing electrode gets lower, resulting in a higher current at the tip of the dendrite, causing metal to be preferentially deposited at the tip of it, lengthening it until it touches the opposite electrode, shorting the battery.  Clearly over many charge/discharge cycles the cumulative effects that result from the relative effect size of these processes can cause substantial changes in electrode shape if they are not understood and accounted for.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In the nickel iron battery the fact that this occurs very little allows the iron electrode metal scaffold (plaque, current collector) to be made of the reactant itsself.  The surface can get converted to the reaction product and back again many times without changing the shape of the internal iron structure.  Usually, if you did this with e.g. a zinc anode the zinc would get out of shape pretty fast due to dendrite growth etc. and become useless.  A sintered block with 3 to 4 times the amount of iron than stoichiometric is typical, so 1/3 to 1/4 of the iron is used in each full charge/discharge.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In patents it appears to be universally assumed that for both electrodes, if they have a high surface area at manufacture they continue to have a high surface area thereafter so this may not be a problem.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Other important reactions in the cell=&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you want a good battery rather than a poor one, the side reactions and other reactions in the cell are the most critical factor, with the only second being electrode geometry/design.  They are a fundamental part of battery design.  These exclude the reactions that contribute to the output electrical energy to the cell.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
These are what sap energy away, leading to poor efficiency and high self discharge, and partly what limits battery life.   Some of them are used to counteract the undesirable ones.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are others that need to be learned from the documents listed in the sticking points section.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
-self discharge due to oxidization by dissolved o2 (pretty small in magnitude)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
-and the iron being anaerobically attacked by water, about 1000 times larger in magnitude than the oxidation due to dissolved o2.  This is the main reason the battery has such a high self discharge rate.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
- self discharge at the nickel electrode need to check the mechanisms/reactions again probably relatively low since it is in nimh and nicad despite the same reactants present.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
-corrosion of the metallic mes h by electrolyte, this may be one of the lifetime-limiting reactions that increases with temperature.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
-oxidization of sulfide to sulfate and it&#039;s ensuing accumulation on the surface of the iron electrode, increasing internal resistance.  Sulfate is also needed to keep the iron electrode active so when it is used up the battery dies.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
-accumulation of sulfur on the surface of the iron electrode esp. at lower temperatures and high discharge rates.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
-deposition of iron in the nickel compound crystal structure &amp;lt;--needs more research&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
-oxidization of the surface of metallic flitts to low conductivity nickel oxide.&lt;br /&gt;
edison had a problem with nonconductive layer on the flitts forming didn&#039;t know what it was maybe explained in later patents.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
-carbonate and the other one in the battery hadnbook undesirable ions &amp;lt;-- need to add those other ones.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
probably all kinds of minor undesirable contaminants, edison mentiones manganese , high purity iron like carbonyl iron is often used same for nickel electrode.  Howevetr this may be expensive&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
lithium hydroxide apparently improves the thermodynamic reversibility of reactions and slows down the iron poisoning of the nickel elecrode maybe this indicates longer life and higher charge/discharge efficiency , we need a chemisty who can identify other ways of improving esp the charg/discharge efficiency by identifying other acceptable additives that might work.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
-evolution of gasses at the nickel electrodes during charging, this could play into the ow efficiency but may only be commesurate with other prerequisite reactions at the iron electrode and unpreventable in themselves. Another contributor to low charge/discharge efficiency maybe.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
- Evolution of gasses at electrode during periods when a charged battery sit there for future use (charge-stand), again in conjunction with prerequisite activity at the iron electrode. Another cause of self discharge.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
-The air interface one that causes oxidization of the nickel metal and/or active material(?) of the electrode when there is an interface with the electrolyte and air, nickel electrode needs to be submerged.  Another cause of self discharge if not  designed right, plus could corrode the nickel possibly leading to failure.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Need to add references but should have the sci docs first or will take forever and be low quality refs anyway.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Additives=&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
- cobalt hydroxide is used to improve conductivity of the nickel electrode either by adding it to the nickel oxyhydroxide at manufacture or into the powder after, by e.g. coating the particle electrolytically to give them a higher effective conductivity without interfering with their reactivity too much (it does reduce it a little though so again there will be an optimum amount).  It can also help to increase the fraction of active material that is utilized.  1 to 5% of the active material mass may be used for this.  We probably want to avoid bothering with this.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
- cobalt to the metallic mesh, function needs to be checked, probably to improve contact resistance and reduce oxidization of the mesh and maybe reduce corrosion rate by electrolyte.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Other factors affecting performance=&lt;br /&gt;
At low temperatures with some iron electrode designs sulfur can accumulate on the iron electrode and increase internal resistance (designs which incorporate elemental sulfur, patents indicate this can be rectified by using a sulfide salt of low solubility like iron sulfide FeS).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The conductivity of the electrolyte goes down as the temp goes up.  This is desirable but other undesirable reactions increase in rate at higher temps so there is a compromise there.  Also this is one of the main mechanisms that can lead to thermal runaway during constant voltage charging as it can form a positive feedback loop.  The solution is to just not use constant voltage charging, which is easy.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The fraction of the battery that is actually active material, and the fraction of material that is available for actual use all vary quite substantially with the design of the electrodes, and the amount of electrolyte added etc. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The factors like the energy to weight ratio and power to weight will of course tend to be affected by any non-reactant materials used to e.g. reduce cost etc, but fortunately those are of little importance in the context of OSE.  Basically we want to produce something that can replace lead acid which is cheaper, easier to work with and make and maintain, more durable with abuse and longer lasting, and not as bad for the environment.  Ideally both for starting lighting ignition (SLI) batteries and also storage.  Batteries described in documents can handle 6C and more without seriously hard to manufacture materials and additives so SLI is definitely an option.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=factors affecting cost=&lt;br /&gt;
Not all of the active material actually gets used in the electrode.  Obviously we want it to be high in the nickel electrode in particular because the cost of the material is high.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In the Edison cell the fraction of mass utilized can be calculated from the weights and composition of the electrodes Edison gives in the patents and this should be done.  It can be increased with the addition of conductive carbon (like graphite) particles to the active material.  Documents indicate that the homogeneity of the particle sizes is important in pocket cells to increase mass utilization, which should be no surprise as it would entail a smaller number of particles in between the gaps of large particles that are not compressed in any way against their neighbors, leading to high contact resistance and therefore low electrical coupling to the current collector.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For pasted electrodes it can be very high for both the iron and the nickel electrodes, patents indicate that it could be 80% without cobalt additive and almost 100% with it for the nickel. Smaller particle sizes and finer denser mesh helps too.  Similar figures apply to the iron but since iron is cheap and nontoxic that will probably not be a deciding factor in the iron electrode design.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For sintered iron electrodes it is typically 1/3 or 1/4 of the total mass.  The rest forms the conductive matrix of the current collector.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
 If the active material or a precursor that is later converted the the active material (like nickel oxide, probably NiO) is added before sintering the current collector that would need to be checked, but it would likely be high.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
With electrodeposition and molten salt it should be very high.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For the nickel electrode the amount of conductive metallic material used (if metal is used, carbon works too) is typically 30% to 10 by volume of the electrode, so this will have a significant impact on cost if it is solid nickel.  This may be a good reason to use a nickel plated steel wool current collector.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Notes on interpreting patents and other documentation=&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Chemists have a terrible habit of interchanging the names of compounds as if they were synonyms based on family relations, and glossing over details.  Nickel Oxyhydroxide  if often referred to as nickel hydroxide in this context. Incidentally so is actual nickel hydroxide, which can get confusing for someone with limited knowledge of the art.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
 A nickel-iron battery likewise may use not just iron as the negative electrode but can also make use of the higher iron oxides like Fe3O4 (ferric oxide) called iron oxide as a reactant (need to check details on this).  Similarly FeO (ferrous oxide or iron monoxide) is a problem in the batteries but is likewise called iron oxide.   Similarly there are many nickel oxides and the name is often used to refer to several.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are also several different reactions that are important to contribute output energy in the battery, not just the one on the wikipedia page.  (need to add details)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Related pages==&lt;br /&gt;
http://openfarmtech.org/wiki/Batteries&lt;br /&gt;
http://openfarmtech.org/wiki/Nickel-Iron_Battery/Research&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Colin</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
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		<title>Talk:Nickel-Iron Battery</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Talk:Nickel-Iron_Battery&amp;diff=29251"/>
		<updated>2011-05-25T03:55:56Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Colin: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;On toxicity and other safety concerns:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Nickel oxide/hyroxide is indeed toxic, but as it would be contained in a battery, it seems this is likely the best place for such a substance to be.  Basic safety protocol should keep anyone who should have to handle the battery and/or its components safe from harm.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Lye isn&#039;t &#039;toxic&#039; it&#039;s caustic and corrosive.  Either way, it doesn&#039;t get along with the body very well. However, once built, the lye will be diluted in a solution (ideally of glycerol), and so there shouldn&#039;t be much danger at all associated with the battery once built.  However, utmost caution should be exercised when mixing the electrolyte (which shouldn&#039;t be a problem if waste glycerine from biodiesel production is used).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Unfortunately, nickel is also a strategic metal, which does add to its cost, but further research may point the way to better localized sources.  Of course, this shouldn&#039;t be an issue as each 1kWh battery has a one time cost of 2kg nickel (as is explained in the page).  All in all, I think NiFe chemistry is about the safest practical battery that could be constructed.  &lt;br /&gt;
[[User:Colin|Colin]] 14:45, 16 May 2011 (PDT)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
-----&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Feel free to edit the section I added on toxicity, I just wanted to make sure that something was there.  Yes, lye is corrosive, but I do agree that handled correctly, it can be safe.  We might want to add links/comments to the effect that lye can be made from wood ashes.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You might want to do a bit of sourcing for nickel.  I wonder how much it costs. - [[Mark J Norton]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I was curious, so I did a quick search and ran the numbers myself.  $251.50 for 2kg of nickel. - 5/16/11 at 9:05pm PDT&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
-----&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
On sources of nickel:  because of cost, I have been thinking about the best starting material for nickel.  It seems best to me to start with nickel hydroxide mixed in with the electrolyte, in the appropriate concentration.  A small amount of something like nickel nitrate might be needed to provide a thin coat of nickel metal, but I think that the hydroxide by itself should work.  In either case, it makes the most sense to start with nickel, and treat it with the appropriate acids and bases to get the form we want.  This way, we could even start with nickel shavings, ingots, blanks, or any other form of nickel. [[User:Colin|Colin]] 20:47, 24 May 2011 (PDT)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Let me elaborate on the above.  The construction technique I&#039;m envisioning for this battery involves a number of plates, all made from relatively thin sheet steel.  Half of which would be plated by nickel oxyhydroxide in the first charging cycle, forming the cathode of each 1.2V cell.  The steel should be carbon steel with minimal to no content of other metal.  I intend on writing this into the article, but I think that it needs graphics to go along.  So, the idea is that the sheets which will be the electrodes would have a tab cut out of a corner with the cnc torch table.  Then, these sheets will be placed with the remaining tab (like a tab on a folder) of each plate alternating in a cell.  This leaves two sets of &#039;tabs,&#039; one set will be for the anode, and the other for the cathode.  With this design, two long steel bars can be welded to the exposed tabs, which should allow for high current capacity, resilience, and rigidity in design.  These two bars would be inside the profile of the box when viewing it from the top, so many cells can be placed snugly adjacent to each other, and then welded in series to form a 12V stack.  Such a setup should easily handle the highest loads this battery should be capable of driving. [[User:Colin|Colin]] 20:55, 24 May 2011 (PDT)&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Colin</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Talk:Nickel-Iron_Battery&amp;diff=29246</id>
		<title>Talk:Nickel-Iron Battery</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Talk:Nickel-Iron_Battery&amp;diff=29246"/>
		<updated>2011-05-25T03:47:39Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Colin: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;On toxicity and other safety concerns:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Nickel oxide/hyroxide is indeed toxic, but as it would be contained in a battery, it seems this is likely the best place for such a substance to be.  Basic safety protocol should keep anyone who should have to handle the battery and/or its components safe from harm.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Lye isn&#039;t &#039;toxic&#039; it&#039;s caustic and corrosive.  Either way, it doesn&#039;t get along with the body very well. However, once built, the lye will be diluted in a solution (ideally of glycerol), and so there shouldn&#039;t be much danger at all associated with the battery once built.  However, utmost caution should be exercised when mixing the electrolyte (which shouldn&#039;t be a problem if waste glycerine from biodiesel production is used).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Unfortunately, nickel is also a strategic metal, which does add to its cost, but further research may point the way to better localized sources.  Of course, this shouldn&#039;t be an issue as each 1kWh battery has a one time cost of 2kg nickel (as is explained in the page).  All in all, I think NiFe chemistry is about the safest practical battery that could be constructed.  &lt;br /&gt;
[[User:Colin|Colin]] 14:45, 16 May 2011 (PDT)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
-----&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Feel free to edit the section I added on toxicity, I just wanted to make sure that something was there.  Yes, lye is corrosive, but I do agree that handled correctly, it can be safe.  We might want to add links/comments to the effect that lye can be made from wood ashes.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You might want to do a bit of sourcing for nickel.  I wonder how much it costs. - [[Mark J Norton]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I was curious, so I did a quick search and ran the numbers myself.  $251.50 for 2kg of nickel. - 5/16/11 at 9:05pm PDT&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
-----&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
On sources of nickel:  because of cost, I have been thinking about the best starting material for nickel.  It seems best to me to start with nickel hydroxide mixed in with the electrolyte, in the appropriate concentration.  A small amount of something like nickel nitrate might be needed to provide a thin coat of nickel metal, but I think that the hydroxide by itself should work.  In either case, it makes the most sense to start with nickel, and treat it with the appropriate acids and bases to get the form we want.  This way, we could even start with nickel shavings, ingots, blanks, or any other form of nickel. [[User:Colin|Colin]] 20:47, 24 May 2011 (PDT)&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Colin</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Talk:Nickel-Iron_Battery&amp;diff=26525</id>
		<title>Talk:Nickel-Iron Battery</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Talk:Nickel-Iron_Battery&amp;diff=26525"/>
		<updated>2011-05-16T21:45:38Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Colin: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;On toxicity and other safety concerns:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Nickel oxide/hyroxide is indeed toxic, but as it would be contained in a battery, it seems this is likely the best place for such a substance to be.  Basic safety protocol should keep anyone who should have to handle the battery and/or its components safe from harm.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Lye isn&#039;t &#039;toxic&#039; it&#039;s caustic and corrosive.  Either way, it doesn&#039;t get along with the body very well. However, once built, the lye will be diluted in a solution (ideally of glycerol), and so there shouldn&#039;t be much danger at all associated with the battery once built.  However, utmost caution should be exercised when mixing the electrolyte (which shouldn&#039;t be a problem if waste glycerine from biodiesel production is used).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Unfortunately, nickel is also a strategic metal, which does add to its cost, but further research may point the way to better localized sources.  Of course, this shouldn&#039;t be an issue as each 1kWh battery has a one time cost of 2kg nickel (as is explained in the page).  All in all, I think NiFe chemistry is about the safest practical battery that could be constructed.  &lt;br /&gt;
[[User:Colin|Colin]] 14:45, 16 May 2011 (PDT)&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Colin</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=User_talk:Mjn&amp;diff=26524</id>
		<title>User talk:Mjn</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=User_talk:Mjn&amp;diff=26524"/>
		<updated>2011-05-16T21:38:19Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Colin: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;hi mark! would you like me to merge your two pages, [[Mark J Norton]] and [[User:Mjn]]? this way, we can reduce redundancy and avoid confusing people checking out your profile.&lt;br /&gt;
you can check out how mine works and tell me if that&#039;s fine with you :)&lt;br /&gt;
my pages are [[Pepe Bawagan]] and [[User:Syk0 saje]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
--[[User:Syk0 saje|syk0saje]] 08:54, 4 May 2011 (PDT)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I&#039;ve considered it, but there is a problem.  My login name is Mjn, which shows up in the logs, etc.  However, that&#039;s probably not enough info to tell people who I am, so I have retained [[Mark J Norton]].  I have cross-linked the pages.  What is your opinion?  I suppose we could FORWARD [[User:Mjn]] to [[Mark J Norton]].  That would work for me.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I had a look at your pages.  I guess it comes down to:  do you want to be known by your name or by your handle (login name)?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I think I&#039;ll leave both of my pages up for now and think about how to merge them at a future date.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
--[[User:Mjn]] 12:08, 4 May 2011 (EDT)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Hi Mark,&lt;br /&gt;
I&#039;ve noticed your contributions to the Nickel-Iron battery concept.  I&#039;d like to compare notes with you, as I have only a basic understanding of its chemistry.  I&#039;ve got a decent design figured out, using sheet steel and nickel hydroxide (build the battery discharged, then charge it).  Turns out that a 1kWh cell is quite feasible.  Anyway, I hope to learn a thing or two from you and I hope we can flesh this battery out as well. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; Thanks! [[User:Colin|Colin]] 14:38, 16 May 2011 (PDT)&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Colin</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Nickel-Iron_Battery&amp;diff=26523</id>
		<title>Nickel-Iron Battery</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Nickel-Iron_Battery&amp;diff=26523"/>
		<updated>2011-05-16T21:32:21Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Colin: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{under construction}}&lt;br /&gt;
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nickel_iron_battery&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Basic Concepts Behind Construction=&lt;br /&gt;
The electrochemistry of a Nickel iron battery is similar to a NiCd or NiMH battery in that nickel oxyhydroxide is used as an anode, but iron is used instead of the toxic metal complexes in NiCd and NiMH batteries.  During discharge, both metals turn into their hydroxide forms: Ni(OH)2 and Fe(OH)2. (see the wikipedia article under electrochemistry).  Given the resilience and rechargeability of the NiFe battery, it should be possible to build it in a discharged state, combining the appropriate hydroxides of Nickel and Iron. Alternatively, the battery could be constructed out of metallic nickel and iron, and the nickel should mostly convert to an NiOOH form after the first discharge-charge cycle.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=First test=&lt;br /&gt;
A sample concrete cell was tested, but no practical benefit is achieved using concrete as an electrolyte, as to be effective, the entire cell must be submerged, and the electrical conductivity of cement is far too high when submerged.  A new design is in the works for a cell which would use raw glycerine (glycerol) as a byproduct of biodiesel production, thus improving the ecologies of both systems.  The rationale is that the lye (KOH or NaOH) which &#039;contaminates&#039; the glycerine should prove to be an effective electrolyte, and the glycerine itself should support a more stable cell. (Glycerine will evaporate much more slowly than water, and due to higher viscosity, should even further improve vibration-resistance of the cell.  Ideally, this design could even be adapted to portable units.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Preliminary Figures for a 12V, 1kWh pile=&lt;br /&gt;
NiFe cells produce a working potential of 1.2V, and charge at 1.4V.  A 12V battery would then consist of 10 cells, and charge at 14V which is typical for most &amp;quot;12V&amp;quot; batteries.  To achieve 1kWh capacity, we will need 1000W/12V = ~85Ah.  This means that each cell will need to provide 85Ah capacity.  This corresponds to 306,000C, which is approximately 3.17 moles of electrons. Sheet steel will form a base material for the electrodes, so iron is not a limiting factor.  Nickel&#039;s electrochemistry in an NiFe battery indicates a 1:1 molar ratio, so 3.17 moles of nickel will be required.  This is about 185g of Ni at a molar mass of 58.69g/mole.  For a &#039;safety&#039; margin, we will round up to 200g.  At 200g Ni per cell, a total of 2kg of nickel will be needed for a 1kWh unit.  The actual capacity of this cell based on the rounded values above would be 1095.8kWh.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Related pages=&lt;br /&gt;
http://openfarmtech.org/wiki/Nickel-Iron_Batter/Research  (the page was accidentally created with the lack of y typo, don&#039;t know how to change that)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Environmental Aspects=&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
All batteries (at least the ones in common use) are toxic to a greater or lesser extent.  The NiFe Battery isn&#039;t an exception, but it is far less toxic than Cadmium-based batteries.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Iron is non-toxic and commonly available.&lt;br /&gt;
* Nickel Oxide is toxic.  The Appropriate Technology Collaborative is investigating toxicity [http://apptechdesign.org/].&lt;br /&gt;
* The lye electrolyte is caustic and corrosive, but perhaps could be used in small amounts.&lt;br /&gt;
* Suspending the lye in glycerin also mitigates effects.&lt;br /&gt;
* Glycerin is a by-product of creating bio-diesel, thus using a waste of a different process.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Colin</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Nickel-Iron_Battery&amp;diff=26038</id>
		<title>Nickel-Iron Battery</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Nickel-Iron_Battery&amp;diff=26038"/>
		<updated>2011-05-11T16:37:19Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Colin: /* Preliminary Figures for a 12V, 1kWh pile */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{under construction}}&lt;br /&gt;
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nickel_iron_battery&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Basic Concepts Behind Construction=&lt;br /&gt;
The electrochemistry of a Nickel iron battery is similar to a NiCd or NiMH battery in that nickel oxyhydroxide is used as an anode, but iron is used instead of the toxic metal complexes in NiCd and NiMH batteries.  During discharge, both metals turn into their hydroxide forms: Ni(OH)2 and Fe(OH)2. (see the wikipedia article under electrochemistry).  Given the resilience and rechargeability of the NiFe battery, it should be possible to build it in a discharged state, combining the appropriate hydroxides of Nickel and Iron. Alternatively, the battery could be constructed out of metallic nickel and iron, and the nickel should mostly convert to an NiOOH form after the first discharge-charge cycle.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=First test=&lt;br /&gt;
A sample concrete cell was tested, but no practical benefit is achieved using concrete as an electrolyte, as to be effective, the entire cell must be submerged, and the electrical conductivity of cement is far too high when submerged.  A new design is in the works for a cell which would use raw glycerine (glycerol) as a byproduct of biodiesel production, thus improving the ecologies of both systems.  The rationale is that the lye (KOH or NaOH) which &#039;contaminates&#039; the glycerine should prove to be an effective electrolyte, and the glycerine itself should support a more stable cell. (Glycerine will evaporate much more slowly than water, and due to higher viscosity, should even further improve vibration-resistance of the cell.  Ideally, this design could even be adapted to portable units.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Preliminary Figures for a 12V, 1kWh pile=&lt;br /&gt;
NiFe cells produce a working potential of 1.2V, and charge at 1.4V.  A 12V battery would then consist of 10 cells, and charge at 14V which is typical for most &amp;quot;12V&amp;quot; batteries.  To achieve 1kWh capacity, we will need 1000W/12V = ~85Ah.  This means that each cell will need to provide 85Ah capacity.  This corresponds to 306,000C, which is approximately 3.17 moles of electrons. Sheet steel will form a base material for the electrodes, so iron is not a limiting factor.  Nickel&#039;s electrochemistry in an NiFe battery indicates a 1:1 molar ratio, so 3.17 moles of nickel will be required.  This is about 185g of Ni at a molar mass of 58.69g/mole.  For a &#039;safety&#039; margin, we will round up to 200g.  At 200g Ni per cell, a total of 2kg of nickel will be needed for a 1kWh unit.  The actual capacity of this cell based on the rounded values above would be 1095.8kWh.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Colin</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Nickel-Iron_Battery&amp;diff=26037</id>
		<title>Nickel-Iron Battery</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Nickel-Iron_Battery&amp;diff=26037"/>
		<updated>2011-05-11T16:26:36Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Colin: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{under construction}}&lt;br /&gt;
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nickel_iron_battery&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Basic Concepts Behind Construction=&lt;br /&gt;
The electrochemistry of a Nickel iron battery is similar to a NiCd or NiMH battery in that nickel oxyhydroxide is used as an anode, but iron is used instead of the toxic metal complexes in NiCd and NiMH batteries.  During discharge, both metals turn into their hydroxide forms: Ni(OH)2 and Fe(OH)2. (see the wikipedia article under electrochemistry).  Given the resilience and rechargeability of the NiFe battery, it should be possible to build it in a discharged state, combining the appropriate hydroxides of Nickel and Iron. Alternatively, the battery could be constructed out of metallic nickel and iron, and the nickel should mostly convert to an NiOOH form after the first discharge-charge cycle.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=First test=&lt;br /&gt;
A sample concrete cell was tested, but no practical benefit is achieved using concrete as an electrolyte, as to be effective, the entire cell must be submerged, and the electrical conductivity of cement is far too high when submerged.  A new design is in the works for a cell which would use raw glycerine (glycerol) as a byproduct of biodiesel production, thus improving the ecologies of both systems.  The rationale is that the lye (KOH or NaOH) which &#039;contaminates&#039; the glycerine should prove to be an effective electrolyte, and the glycerine itself should support a more stable cell. (Glycerine will evaporate much more slowly than water, and due to higher viscosity, should even further improve vibration-resistance of the cell.  Ideally, this design could even be adapted to portable units.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Preliminary Figures for a 12V, 1kWh pile=&lt;br /&gt;
NiFe cells produce a working potential of 1.2V, and charge at 1.4V.  A 12V battery would then consist of 10 cells.  To achieve 1kWh capacity, we will need 1000W/12V = ~85Ah.  This means that each cell will need to provide 85Ah capacity.  This corresponds to 306,000C, which is approximately 3.17 moles of electrons. Sheet steel will form a base material for the electrodes, so iron is not a limiting factor.  Nickel&#039;s electrochemistry in an NiFe battery indicates a 1:1 molar ratio, so 3.17 moles of nickel will be required.  This is about 185g of Ni at a molar mass of 58.69g/mole.  For a &#039;safety&#039; margin, we will round up to 200g.  At 200g Ni per cell, a total of 2kg of nickel will be needed for a 1kWh unit.  The actual capacity of this cell based on the rounded values above would be 1095.8kWh.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Colin</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Nickel-Iron_Battery&amp;diff=26036</id>
		<title>Nickel-Iron Battery</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Nickel-Iron_Battery&amp;diff=26036"/>
		<updated>2011-05-11T16:26:11Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Colin: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{under construction}}&lt;br /&gt;
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nickel_iron_battery&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Basic Concepts Behind Construction=&lt;br /&gt;
The electrochemistry of a Nickel iron battery is similar to a NiCd or NiMH battery in that nickel oxyhydroxide is used as an anode, but iron is used instead of the toxic metal complexes in NiCd and NiMH batteries.  During discharge, both metals turn into their hydroxide forms: Ni(OH)2 and Fe(OH)2. (see the wikipedia article under electrochemistry).  Given the resilience and rechargeability of the NiFe battery, it should be possible to build it in a discharged state, combining the appropriate hydroxides of Nickel and Iron. Alternatively, the battery could be constructed out of metallic nickel and iron, and the nickel should mostly convert to an NiOOH form after the first discharge-charge cycle.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=First test=&lt;br /&gt;
A sample concrete cell was tested, but no practical benefit is achieved using concrete as an electrolyte, as to be effective, the entire cell must be submerged, and the electrical conductivity of cement is far too high when submerged.  A new design is in the works for a cell which would use raw glycerine (glycerol) as a byproduct of biodiesel production, thus improving the ecologies of both systems.  The rationale is that the lye (KOH or NaOH) which &#039;contaminates&#039; the glycerine should prove to be an effective electrolyte, and the glycerine itself should support a more stable cell. (Glycerine will evaporate much more slowly than water, and due to higher viscosity, should even further improve vibration-resistance of the cell.  Ideally, this design could even be adapted to portable units.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Preliminary Figures for a 12V, 1kWh pile=&lt;br /&gt;
NiFe cells produce a working potential of 1.2V, and charge at 1.4V.  A 12V battery would then consist of 10 cells.  To achieve 1kWh capacity, we will need 1000W/12V = ~85Ah.  This means that each cell will need to provide 85Ah capacity.  This corresponds to 306,000C, which is approximately 3.17 moles of electrons. Sheet steel will form a base material for the electrodes, so iron is not a limiting factor.  Nickel&#039;s electrochemistry in an NiFe battery indicates a 1:1 molar ratio, so 3.17 moles of nickel will be required.  This is about 185g of Ni at a molar mass of 58.69g/mole.  For a &#039;safety&#039; margin, we will round up to 200g.  At 200g Ni per cell, a total of 2kg of nickel will be needed for a 1kWh unit.  The actual capacity of this cell based on the rounded values above would be 1095.8kWh.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Colin</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Nickel-Iron_Battery&amp;diff=25866</id>
		<title>Nickel-Iron Battery</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Nickel-Iron_Battery&amp;diff=25866"/>
		<updated>2011-05-10T00:28:39Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Colin: /* &amp;quot;prototype&amp;quot; in development */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{under construction}}&lt;br /&gt;
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nickel_iron_battery&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Basic Concepts Behind Construction=&lt;br /&gt;
The electrochemistry of a Nickel iron battery is similar to a NiCd or NiMH battery in that nickel oxyhydroxide is used as an anode, but iron is used instead of the toxic metal complexes in NiCd and NiMH batteries.  During discharge, both metals turn into their hydroxide forms: Ni(OH)2 and Fe(OH)2. (see the wikipedia article under electrochemistry).  Given the resilience and rechargeability of the NiFe battery, it should be possible to build it in a discharged state, combining the appropriate hydroxides of Nickel and Iron. Alternatively, the battery could be constructed out of metallic nickel and iron, and the nickel should mostly convert to an NiOOH form after the first discharge-charge cycle.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=First test=&lt;br /&gt;
A sample concrete cell was tested, but no practical benefit is achieved using concrete as an electrolyte, as to be effective, the entire cell must be submerged, and the electrical conductivity of cement is far too high when submerged.  A new design is in the works for a cell which would use raw glycerine (glycerol) as a byproduct of biodiesel production, thus improving the ecologies of both systems.  The rationale is that the lye (KOH or NaOH) which &#039;contaminates&#039; the glycerine should prove to be an effective electrolyte, and the glycerine itself should support a more stable cell. (Glycerine will evaporate much more slowly than water, and due to higher viscosity, should even further improve vibration-resistance of the cell.  Ideally, this design could even be adapted to portable units.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Colin</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Governance&amp;diff=24734</id>
		<title>Governance</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Governance&amp;diff=24734"/>
		<updated>2011-05-03T21:25:56Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Colin: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;Governance by abundance. Everyone is expected to contribute to an economy. If you don&#039;t, you&#039;re out. Simple. You pull your weight, contribute, no welfare state. People do things out of internal motivation. This is a rigorous condition of skill and wisdom, not a hippie getaway.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Major problems with this, however. Most people aren&#039;t evolved to look beyond their selfish interest. So it may be that we won&#039;t be able to find the 30 people. If that&#039;s the case, we&#039;ll go with less, or create more stringent governance. The latter is not preferable to me, because it starts to get people out of voluntary action.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category: Governance]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Colin</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Talk:Factor_e_Farm_Social_Contract_2012&amp;diff=24728</id>
		<title>Talk:Factor e Farm Social Contract 2012</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Talk:Factor_e_Farm_Social_Contract_2012&amp;diff=24728"/>
		<updated>2011-05-03T20:58:26Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Colin: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;I suggest something other than the Ten Commandments as an example of a moral code unless you really want to exclude atheists, Hindus and pagans (no other gods before me, no idols, etc.) and people who are willing to work on the Sabbath if something needs to be done.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Suggestions: Golden Rule, Do No Harm.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The general intent holds, but I agree with you. A more general example, or several examples, should be used.&lt;br /&gt;
[[User:Colin|Colin]] 13:58, 3 May 2011 (PDT)&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Colin</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Nickel-Iron_Battery&amp;diff=24357</id>
		<title>Nickel-Iron Battery</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Nickel-Iron_Battery&amp;diff=24357"/>
		<updated>2011-05-03T05:13:56Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Colin: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{under construction}}&lt;br /&gt;
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nickel_iron_battery&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Basic Concepts Behind Construction=&lt;br /&gt;
The electrochemistry of a Nickel iron battery is similar to a NiCd or NiMH battery in that nickel oxyhydroxide is used as an anode, but iron is used instead of the toxic metal complexes in NiCd and NiMH batteries.  During discharge, both metals turn into their hydroxide forms: Ni(OH)2 and Fe(OH)2. (see the wikipedia article under electrochemistry).  Given the resilience and rechargeability of the NiFe battery, it should be possible to build it in a discharged state, combining the appropriate hydroxides of Nickel and Iron. Alternatively, the battery could be constructed out of metallic nickel and iron, and the nickel should mostly convert to an NiOOH form after the first discharge-charge cycle.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=&amp;quot;prototype&amp;quot; in development=&lt;br /&gt;
I (Colin) am currently testing the feasibility of using concrete as an electrolyte in a NiFe battery.  Tests while still wet indicate the right voltage for NiFe chemistry, but minimal if not negligible current.  After 24 hours of curing, a decent coating of hydroxides (rust) is appearing on the iron electrode.  This is characteristic of the action we want during discharge, and indicates rapid self-discharge of the battery.  I will conduct further tests once the cement has fully hardened (within the next two days) and report the results here.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Colin</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Nickel-Iron_Battery&amp;diff=24356</id>
		<title>Nickel-Iron Battery</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Nickel-Iron_Battery&amp;diff=24356"/>
		<updated>2011-05-03T05:07:42Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Colin: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{under construction}}&lt;br /&gt;
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nickel_iron_battery&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Basic Concepts Behind Construction=&lt;br /&gt;
The electrochemistry of a Nickel iron battery is similar to a NiCd or NiMH battery in that nickel oxyhydroxide is used as an anode, but iron is used instead of the toxic metal complexes in NiCd and NiMH batteries.  During discharge, both metals turn into their hydroxide forms: Ni(OH)2 and Fe(OH)2. (see the wikipedia article under electrochemistry).  Given the resilience and rechargeability of the NiFe battery, it should be possible to build it in a discharged state, combining the appropriate hydroxides of Nickel and Iron. Alternatively, the battery could be constructed out of metallic nickel and iron, and the nickel should mostly convert to an NiOOH form after the first discharge-charge cycle.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Colin</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Talk:Systems_Engineering&amp;diff=23708</id>
		<title>Talk:Systems Engineering</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Talk:Systems_Engineering&amp;diff=23708"/>
		<updated>2011-05-02T02:32:26Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Colin: Created page with &amp;quot;Daniel-I&amp;#039;m just now getting actively involved with OSE, and I am on my way to an Industrial Engineering major at the University of Illinois.  In my understanding, this major is e...&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;Daniel-I&#039;m just now getting actively involved with OSE, and I am on my way to an Industrial Engineering major at the University of Illinois.  In my understanding, this major is equivalent to that of Systems Engineering at any other US University.  I hope so, as Systems Engineering is what I want to do.  Regardless, I would like to know if you could teach me a thing or two in the process of contributing to OSE?  I would like to help from the systems-design and engineering perspective (along with a few direct how-to&#039;s) but I don&#039;t have much experience.&lt;br /&gt;
[[User:Colin|Colin]] 19:32, 1 May 2011 (PDT)&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Colin</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Involute_Gear&amp;diff=23705</id>
		<title>Involute Gear</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Involute_Gear&amp;diff=23705"/>
		<updated>2011-05-02T02:05:56Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Colin: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{under construction}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are several methods to cut an involute gear, but I will focus on hobbing techniques, as a simple hob can be made with the most basic lathe. (see [[Hob]])&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Things Needed=&lt;br /&gt;
#A vertical milling machine (horizontal will probably work as well, but I will focus on vertical here)&lt;br /&gt;
#The appropriate gear-cutting [[Hob]] for the dimensions of the gear desired (this can be machined from carbon steel and this process will be documented in the hob article&lt;br /&gt;
#An indexing head attachment for the milling machine [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Indexing_Head]&lt;br /&gt;
#A mandrel matching the inside diameter of the gear (where the shaft will be mounted when finished; this too can be machined on the lathe)&lt;br /&gt;
#Appropriately sized round stock of a material no harder than the material of the hob&lt;br /&gt;
#An engine or benchtop lathe and appropriate attachments (3-jaw chuck, 4-jaw chuck, dial gauge, simple cutting tool, chuck attachment for tailstock, center drill, drill bit, reamer)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Blank Preparation=&lt;br /&gt;
First, the gear blank needs to be cut.  In the case of making a set of identical gears for a hydraulic [[gear pump]], a single double-wide gear can be made and cut in half when finished. If the thickness of the gear is very important, then the swarf of the blade that will be used to cut the gear in half must be considered when cutting the length of stock needed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Before mounting in the lathe, a length of roundstock should be cut. This step does not require precision, so a hacksaw will do in a pinch. (A chop saw is preferable)  The piece should then be mounted in a 3-jaw chuck on the lathe if possible (that is, if the piece will fit in the 3-jaw chuck)  A four jaw chuck may be used, but extra care must be taken to ensure that the part is centered. now the end of the piece should be machined to a smooth finish and center-drilled to roughly 3/16&amp;quot; after removing the piece from the chuck, turn it around and repeat the process used on the first end. (If the stock is short enough, it can be cut down to the outer diameter of the gear desired while still mounted in the chuck the first time, but it is advisable to center-drill the piece to mark the center of the hole where the shaft will be mounted.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When ready to trim down to diameter, ensure that the lathe RPM and feed rate are set properly for the diameter you are cutting from (before the cut) and the material being used.  The rough formula for RPM is (CS x 4)/D where CS is the cutting speed which is specified for the work material and D is the diameter of the workpiece. The feed rate used will depend on the material being used, shop practice, and the desired finish of the cut.  Typical lathe feedrates used for carbon steel are .002-.005&amp;quot;/revolution.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Now the hole by which the gear will be mounted should be machined.  This step will involve first drilling then reaming the hole to produce a smooth, precision finish on the inside of the gear.  First, the appropriate drill bit for the reamer to be used will be mounted in the chuck on the tailstock.  Now the hole will be drilled past the width of the gear, leaving deadspace so that the reamer can ream the entire width of the gear. Next, the drill bit will be replaced with the reamer, and the hole will be reamed to size.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Now the width of the gear to be cut will be cut from the end of the workpiece (twice that plus swarf for two identical gears). This should be done while still on the lathe to maintain precision thickness.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Prepare to Mill=&lt;br /&gt;
Now the gear blank should be mounted on the mandrel and the mandrel in a chuck.  The blank on the mandrel in the chuck should be checked for concentricity using a dial-gauge mounted on the tool-post on the lathe, hand turning the spindle.  Once properly centered on the mandrel and in the chuck, the entire chuck should be transferred to the milling machine and mounted in the rotary table or indexing head. At this time, make sure that the rotary table or indexing head is at a 90 degree angle to the spindle (so that the piece is parallel to the mill table)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In this article, I will focus on using the so-called &#039;parallel hob&#039; mentioned in [[hob]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The hob should be mounted in a collet and then on the mill spindle.  The quill should then be lowered so that one of the inner teeth of the hob is roughly centered on the horizontal diameter.  Lock the quill feed. the table should now be raised or lowered in .001&amp;quot; increments until centered within .001&amp;quot;. Lock the knee.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Formulae and Cutting Details=&lt;br /&gt;
The final depth of cut into the blank should be equal to the tooth depth which is determined by the formula 2.157/Dp for Dp&amp;gt;20 and 2.2/Dp for Dp&amp;lt;=20, where Dp is the diametral pitch, or number of teeth per inch of pitch diameter.  Diametral pitch is determined by the ratio of the number of teeth to the pitch diameter. These three factors also determine the dimensions of the [[hob]] you&#039;ll require.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Just Start Cutting already -or- Hurry up and wait=&lt;br /&gt;
Now the head (again, rotary table or indexing head) should be locked in a known position, and proceed to cut .005&amp;quot; into the blank. Now rotate the work before cutting again by 1/N rotations or 360/N degrees where N is the number of teeth on the gear. Cut .005&amp;quot; from this location.  Repeat this process of cutting and turning until the first cut is reached again.  You&#039;ll continue this process .005&amp;quot; at a pass until reaching the depth of cut (which is the tooth depth) which is determined by the formula above (2.157/Dp).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Post-cutting cleanup=&lt;br /&gt;
After finishing the gear form, it is advisable to return it to the lathe and file away any burrs left behind from the process.  After this, the gear form should be complete, and all that is required for service is to cut a keyway and provide a shaft on which to mount the gear. If a &amp;quot;double-wide&amp;quot; gear was cut for a hydraulic motor, now would be the time to return to the lathe to part the gear into two halves.  Following this, It would be advisable to either end-mill .001-.002&amp;quot; from the cut sides (if so, be sure to include additional thickness in the blank before cutting) or very carefully face the cut ends using the lathe.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=External Links=&lt;br /&gt;
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Involute_gear&lt;br /&gt;
Helpful Videos [http://www.youtube.com/user/Hobbynut]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Colin</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Involute_Gear&amp;diff=23704</id>
		<title>Involute Gear</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Involute_Gear&amp;diff=23704"/>
		<updated>2011-05-02T02:05:24Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Colin: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{Under Construction}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are several methods to cut an involute gear, but I will focus on hobbing techniques, as a simple hob can be made with the most basic lathe. (see [[Hob]])&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Things Needed=&lt;br /&gt;
#A vertical milling machine (horizontal will probably work as well, but I will focus on vertical here)&lt;br /&gt;
#The appropriate gear-cutting [[Hob]] for the dimensions of the gear desired (this can be machined from carbon steel and this process will be documented in the hob article&lt;br /&gt;
#An indexing head attachment for the milling machine [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Indexing_Head]&lt;br /&gt;
#A mandrel matching the inside diameter of the gear (where the shaft will be mounted when finished; this too can be machined on the lathe)&lt;br /&gt;
#Appropriately sized round stock of a material no harder than the material of the hob&lt;br /&gt;
#An engine or benchtop lathe and appropriate attachments (3-jaw chuck, 4-jaw chuck, dial gauge, simple cutting tool, chuck attachment for tailstock, center drill, drill bit, reamer)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Blank Preparation=&lt;br /&gt;
First, the gear blank needs to be cut.  In the case of making a set of identical gears for a hydraulic [[gear pump]], a single double-wide gear can be made and cut in half when finished. If the thickness of the gear is very important, then the swarf of the blade that will be used to cut the gear in half must be considered when cutting the length of stock needed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Before mounting in the lathe, a length of roundstock should be cut. This step does not require precision, so a hacksaw will do in a pinch. (A chop saw is preferable)  The piece should then be mounted in a 3-jaw chuck on the lathe if possible (that is, if the piece will fit in the 3-jaw chuck)  A four jaw chuck may be used, but extra care must be taken to ensure that the part is centered. now the end of the piece should be machined to a smooth finish and center-drilled to roughly 3/16&amp;quot; after removing the piece from the chuck, turn it around and repeat the process used on the first end. (If the stock is short enough, it can be cut down to the outer diameter of the gear desired while still mounted in the chuck the first time, but it is advisable to center-drill the piece to mark the center of the hole where the shaft will be mounted.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When ready to trim down to diameter, ensure that the lathe RPM and feed rate are set properly for the diameter you are cutting from (before the cut) and the material being used.  The rough formula for RPM is (CS x 4)/D where CS is the cutting speed which is specified for the work material and D is the diameter of the workpiece. The feed rate used will depend on the material being used, shop practice, and the desired finish of the cut.  Typical lathe feedrates used for carbon steel are .002-.005&amp;quot;/revolution.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Now the hole by which the gear will be mounted should be machined.  This step will involve first drilling then reaming the hole to produce a smooth, precision finish on the inside of the gear.  First, the appropriate drill bit for the reamer to be used will be mounted in the chuck on the tailstock.  Now the hole will be drilled past the width of the gear, leaving deadspace so that the reamer can ream the entire width of the gear. Next, the drill bit will be replaced with the reamer, and the hole will be reamed to size.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Now the width of the gear to be cut will be cut from the end of the workpiece (twice that plus swarf for two identical gears). This should be done while still on the lathe to maintain precision thickness.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Prepare to Mill=&lt;br /&gt;
Now the gear blank should be mounted on the mandrel and the mandrel in a chuck.  The blank on the mandrel in the chuck should be checked for concentricity using a dial-gauge mounted on the tool-post on the lathe, hand turning the spindle.  Once properly centered on the mandrel and in the chuck, the entire chuck should be transferred to the milling machine and mounted in the rotary table or indexing head. At this time, make sure that the rotary table or indexing head is at a 90 degree angle to the spindle (so that the piece is parallel to the mill table)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In this article, I will focus on using the so-called &#039;parallel hob&#039; mentioned in [[hob]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The hob should be mounted in a collet and then on the mill spindle.  The quill should then be lowered so that one of the inner teeth of the hob is roughly centered on the horizontal diameter.  Lock the quill feed. the table should now be raised or lowered in .001&amp;quot; increments until centered within .001&amp;quot;. Lock the knee.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Formulae and Cutting Details=&lt;br /&gt;
The final depth of cut into the blank should be equal to the tooth depth which is determined by the formula 2.157/Dp for Dp&amp;gt;20 and 2.2/Dp for Dp&amp;lt;=20, where Dp is the diametral pitch, or number of teeth per inch of pitch diameter.  Diametral pitch is determined by the ratio of the number of teeth to the pitch diameter. These three factors also determine the dimensions of the [[hob]] you&#039;ll require.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Just Start Cutting already -or- Hurry up and wait=&lt;br /&gt;
Now the head (again, rotary table or indexing head) should be locked in a known position, and proceed to cut .005&amp;quot; into the blank. Now rotate the work before cutting again by 1/N rotations or 360/N degrees where N is the number of teeth on the gear. Cut .005&amp;quot; from this location.  Repeat this process of cutting and turning until the first cut is reached again.  You&#039;ll continue this process .005&amp;quot; at a pass until reaching the depth of cut (which is the tooth depth) which is determined by the formula above (2.157/Dp).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Post-cutting cleanup=&lt;br /&gt;
After finishing the gear form, it is advisable to return it to the lathe and file away any burrs left behind from the process.  After this, the gear form should be complete, and all that is required for service is to cut a keyway and provide a shaft on which to mount the gear. If a &amp;quot;double-wide&amp;quot; gear was cut for a hydraulic motor, now would be the time to return to the lathe to part the gear into two halves.  Following this, It would be advisable to either end-mill .001-.002&amp;quot; from the cut sides (if so, be sure to include additional thickness in the blank before cutting) or very carefully face the cut ends using the lathe.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=External Links=&lt;br /&gt;
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Involute_gear&lt;br /&gt;
Helpful Videos [http://www.youtube.com/user/Hobbynut]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Colin</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Nickel-iron_batteries&amp;diff=23378</id>
		<title>Nickel-iron batteries</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Nickel-iron_batteries&amp;diff=23378"/>
		<updated>2011-04-30T18:35:17Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Colin: Redirected page to Nickel-Iron Battery&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;#REDIRECT [[Nickel-Iron Battery]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Colin</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Batteries&amp;diff=23377</id>
		<title>Batteries</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Batteries&amp;diff=23377"/>
		<updated>2011-04-30T18:34:19Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Colin: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{Category=Power quality}}&lt;br /&gt;
50+ year battery consisting of nickel and iron plates in an electrolyte of Potassium Hydroxide (similar to lye - which I&#039;m guessing you could substitute). &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Thomas Edison drove an electric car a hundred years ago.&lt;br /&gt;
The batteries he used are easy to build and are still operational.&lt;br /&gt;
Search for &#039;nickel iron battery&#039;, &#039;edison cell&#039; or &#039;nife battery&#039;.&lt;br /&gt;
See http://www.beutilityfree.com/content/&lt;br /&gt;
I have a document on how to build one I need to dig up.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Lead acid==&lt;br /&gt;
Lead acid cells are easy to make too. &lt;br /&gt;
http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Lead_acid_battery_construction&lt;br /&gt;
[[User:NT|NT]] 10:42, 19 March 2010 (UTC)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Nickel Iron Batteries==&lt;br /&gt;
[[Nickel-iron batteries]] have [http://www.beutilityfree.com/content/index.php?option=com_content&amp;amp;view=article&amp;amp;id=44&amp;amp;Itemid=129 50 year lifetimes], compared to a few-year lifetime of lead acid batteries. They are environmentally more benign, and lend themselves to local recycling and fabrication. They have higher discharge rates and faster charge times than lead-acid batteries, so they lend themselves not only to off-grid power, but also to power electronics applications such as welding and heavy workshop power. Their energy density is half that of lead-acid batteries, but their long lifetime makes them highly relevant to the [[GVCS]], including to electric farming equipment as the next generation of [[LifeTrac]] infrastructure.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Colin</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Nickel-Iron_Battery&amp;diff=22635</id>
		<title>Nickel-Iron Battery</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Nickel-Iron_Battery&amp;diff=22635"/>
		<updated>2011-04-27T13:16:35Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Colin: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nickel_iron_battery&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Basic Concepts Behind Construction=&lt;br /&gt;
The electrochemistry of a Nickel iron battery is similar to a NiCd or NiMH battery in that nickel oxyhydroxide is used as an anode, but iron is used instead of the toxic metal complexes in NiCd and NiMH batteries.  During discharge, both metals turn into their hydroxide forms: Ni(OH)2 and Fe(OH)2. (see the wikipedia article under electrochemistry).  Given the resilience and rechargeability of the NiFe battery, it should be possible to build it in a discharged state, combining the appropriate hydroxides of Nickel and Iron. Alternatively, the battery could be constructed out of metallic nickel and iron, and the nickel should mostly convert to an NiOOH form after the first discharge-charge cycle.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
again, the usual disclaimer applies: this page is a work in progress, and updates will be forthcoming.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Colin</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Nickel-Iron_Battery&amp;diff=22627</id>
		<title>Nickel-Iron Battery</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Nickel-Iron_Battery&amp;diff=22627"/>
		<updated>2011-04-27T13:06:55Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Colin: Created page with &amp;quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nickel_iron_battery&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nickel_iron_battery&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Colin</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Involute_Gear&amp;diff=22590</id>
		<title>Involute Gear</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Involute_Gear&amp;diff=22590"/>
		<updated>2011-04-27T04:51:25Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Colin: /* Prepare to Mill */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;This page is very much a work in progress-improvements are forthcoming.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are several methods to cut an involute gear, but I will focus on hobbing techniques, as a simple hob can be made with the most basic lathe. (see [[Hob]])&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Things Needed=&lt;br /&gt;
1. A vertical milling machine (horizontal will probably work as well, but I will focus on vertical here)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
2. The appropriate gear-cutting [[Hob]] for the dimensions of the gear desired (this can be machined from carbon steel and this process will be documented in the hob article&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
3. An indexing head attachment for the milling machine [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Indexing_Head]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
4. A mandrel matching the inside diameter of the gear (where the shaft will be mounted when finished; this too can be machined on the lathe)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
5. Appropriately sized round stock of a material no harder than the material of the hob&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
6. An engine or benchtop lathe and appropriate attachments (3-jaw chuck, 4-jaw chuck, dial gauge, simple cutting tool, chuck attachment for tailstock, center drill, drill bit, reamer)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Blank Preparation=&lt;br /&gt;
First, the gear blank needs to be cut.  In the case of making a set of identical gears for a hydraulic [[gear pump]], a single double-wide gear can be made and cut in half when finished. If the thickness of the gear is very important, then the swarf of the blade that will be used to cut the gear in half must be considered when cutting the length of stock needed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Before mounting in the lathe, a length of roundstock should be cut. This step does not require precision, so a hacksaw will do in a pinch. (A chop saw is preferable)  The piece should then be mounted in a 3-jaw chuck on the lathe if possible (that is, if the piece will fit in the 3-jaw chuck)  A four jaw chuck may be used, but extra care must be taken to ensure that the part is centered. now the end of the piece should be machined to a smooth finish and center-drilled to roughly 3/16&amp;quot; after removing the piece from the chuck, turn it around and repeat the process used on the first end. (If the stock is short enough, it can be cut down to the outer diameter of the gear desired while still mounted in the chuck the first time, but it is advisable to center-drill the piece to mark the center of the hole where the shaft will be mounted.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When ready to trim down to diameter, ensure that the lathe RPM and feed rate are set properly for the diameter you are cutting from (before the cut) and the material being used.  The rough formula for RPM is (CS x 4)/D where CS is the cutting speed which is specified for the work material and D is the diameter of the workpiece. The feed rate used will depend on the material being used, shop practice, and the desired finish of the cut.  Typical lathe feedrates used for carbon steel are .002-.005&amp;quot;/revolution.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Now the hole by which the gear will be mounted should be machined.  This step will involve first drilling then reaming the hole to produce a smooth, precision finish on the inside of the gear.  First, the appropriate drill bit for the reamer to be used will be mounted in the chuck on the tailstock.  Now the hole will be drilled past the width of the gear, leaving deadspace so that the reamer can ream the entire width of the gear. Next, the drill bit will be replaced with the reamer, and the hole will be reamed to size.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Now the width of the gear to be cut will be cut from the end of the workpiece (twice that plus swarf for two identical gears). This should be done while still on the lathe to maintain precision thickness.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Prepare to Mill=&lt;br /&gt;
Now the gear blank should be mounted on the mandrel and the mandrel in a chuck.  The blank on the mandrel in the chuck should be checked for concentricity using a dial-gauge mounted on the tool-post on the lathe, hand turning the spindle.  Once properly centered on the mandrel and in the chuck, the entire chuck should be transferred to the milling machine and mounted in the rotary table or indexing head. At this time, make sure that the rotary table or indexing head is at a 90 degree angle to the spindle (so that the piece is parallel to the mill table)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In this article, I will focus on using the so-called &#039;parallel hob&#039; mentioned in [[hob]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The hob should be mounted in a collet and then on the mill spindle.  The quill should then be lowered so that one of the inner teeth of the hob is roughly centered on the horizontal diameter.  Lock the quill feed. the table should now be raised or lowered in .001&amp;quot; increments until centered within .001&amp;quot;. Lock the knee.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Formulae and Cutting Details=&lt;br /&gt;
The final depth of cut into the blank should be equal to the tooth depth which is determined by the formula 2.157/Dp for Dp&amp;gt;20 and 2.2/Dp for Dp&amp;lt;=20, where Dp is the diametral pitch, or number of teeth per inch of pitch diameter.  Diametral pitch is determined by the ratio of the number of teeth to the pitch diameter. These three factors also determine the dimensions of the [[hob]] you&#039;ll require.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Just Start Cutting already -or- Hurry up and wait=&lt;br /&gt;
Now the head (again, rotary table or indexing head) should be locked in a known position, and proceed to cut .005&amp;quot; into the blank. Now rotate the work before cutting again by 1/N rotations or 360/N degrees where N is the number of teeth on the gear. Cut .005&amp;quot; from this location.  Repeat this process of cutting and turning until the first cut is reached again.  You&#039;ll continue this process .005&amp;quot; at a pass until reaching the depth of cut (which is the tooth depth) which is determined by the formula above (2.157/Dp).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Post cutting cleanup=&lt;br /&gt;
After finishing the gear form, it is advisable to return it to the lathe and file away any burrs left behind from the process.  After this, the gear form should be complete, and all that is required for service is to cut a keyway and provide a shaft on which to mount the gear. If a &amp;quot;double-wide&amp;quot; gear was cut for a hydraulic motor, now would be the time to return to the lathe to part the gear into two halves.  Following this, It would be advisable to either end-mill .001-.002&amp;quot; from the cut sides (if so, be sure to include additional thickness in the blank before cutting) or very carefully face the cut ends using the lathe.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=External Links=&lt;br /&gt;
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Involute_gear&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Helpful Videos [http://www.youtube.com/user/Hobbynut]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Hydraulic Motors]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Colin</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Involute_Gear&amp;diff=22589</id>
		<title>Involute Gear</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Involute_Gear&amp;diff=22589"/>
		<updated>2011-04-27T04:50:51Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Colin: /* Formulae and Cutting Details */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;This page is very much a work in progress-improvements are forthcoming.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are several methods to cut an involute gear, but I will focus on hobbing techniques, as a simple hob can be made with the most basic lathe. (see [[Hob]])&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Things Needed=&lt;br /&gt;
1. A vertical milling machine (horizontal will probably work as well, but I will focus on vertical here)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
2. The appropriate gear-cutting [[Hob]] for the dimensions of the gear desired (this can be machined from carbon steel and this process will be documented in the hob article&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
3. An indexing head attachment for the milling machine [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Indexing_Head]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
4. A mandrel matching the inside diameter of the gear (where the shaft will be mounted when finished; this too can be machined on the lathe)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
5. Appropriately sized round stock of a material no harder than the material of the hob&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
6. An engine or benchtop lathe and appropriate attachments (3-jaw chuck, 4-jaw chuck, dial gauge, simple cutting tool, chuck attachment for tailstock, center drill, drill bit, reamer)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Blank Preparation=&lt;br /&gt;
First, the gear blank needs to be cut.  In the case of making a set of identical gears for a hydraulic [[gear pump]], a single double-wide gear can be made and cut in half when finished. If the thickness of the gear is very important, then the swarf of the blade that will be used to cut the gear in half must be considered when cutting the length of stock needed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Before mounting in the lathe, a length of roundstock should be cut. This step does not require precision, so a hacksaw will do in a pinch. (A chop saw is preferable)  The piece should then be mounted in a 3-jaw chuck on the lathe if possible (that is, if the piece will fit in the 3-jaw chuck)  A four jaw chuck may be used, but extra care must be taken to ensure that the part is centered. now the end of the piece should be machined to a smooth finish and center-drilled to roughly 3/16&amp;quot; after removing the piece from the chuck, turn it around and repeat the process used on the first end. (If the stock is short enough, it can be cut down to the outer diameter of the gear desired while still mounted in the chuck the first time, but it is advisable to center-drill the piece to mark the center of the hole where the shaft will be mounted.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When ready to trim down to diameter, ensure that the lathe RPM and feed rate are set properly for the diameter you are cutting from (before the cut) and the material being used.  The rough formula for RPM is (CS x 4)/D where CS is the cutting speed which is specified for the work material and D is the diameter of the workpiece. The feed rate used will depend on the material being used, shop practice, and the desired finish of the cut.  Typical lathe feedrates used for carbon steel are .002-.005&amp;quot;/revolution.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Now the hole by which the gear will be mounted should be machined.  This step will involve first drilling then reaming the hole to produce a smooth, precision finish on the inside of the gear.  First, the appropriate drill bit for the reamer to be used will be mounted in the chuck on the tailstock.  Now the hole will be drilled past the width of the gear, leaving deadspace so that the reamer can ream the entire width of the gear. Next, the drill bit will be replaced with the reamer, and the hole will be reamed to size.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Now the width of the gear to be cut will be cut from the end of the workpiece (twice that plus swarf for two identical gears). This should be done while still on the lathe to maintain precision thickness.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Prepare to Mill=&lt;br /&gt;
Now the gear blank should be mounted on the mandrel and the mandrel in a chuck.  The blank on the mandrel in the chuck should be checked for concentricity using a dial-gauge mounted on the tool-post on the lathe, hand turning the spindle.  Once properly centered on the mandrel and in the chuck, the entire chuck should be transferred to the milling machine and mounted in the rotary table or indexing head. At this time, make sure that the rotary table or indexing head is at a 90 degree angle to the spindle (so that the piece is parallel to the mill table)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In this article, I will focus on using the so-called &#039;parallel hob&#039; mentioned in [[hob]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The hob should be mounted in a collet and then on the mill spindle.  The quill should then be lowered so that one of the inner teeth of the hob is roughly centered on the horizontal diameter.  Lock the quill feed. the table should now be raised or lowered in .001&amp;quot; increments until centered within .001&amp;quot;. Lock the table z-axis.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Formulae and Cutting Details=&lt;br /&gt;
The final depth of cut into the blank should be equal to the tooth depth which is determined by the formula 2.157/Dp for Dp&amp;gt;20 and 2.2/Dp for Dp&amp;lt;=20, where Dp is the diametral pitch, or number of teeth per inch of pitch diameter.  Diametral pitch is determined by the ratio of the number of teeth to the pitch diameter. These three factors also determine the dimensions of the [[hob]] you&#039;ll require.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Just Start Cutting already -or- Hurry up and wait=&lt;br /&gt;
Now the head (again, rotary table or indexing head) should be locked in a known position, and proceed to cut .005&amp;quot; into the blank. Now rotate the work before cutting again by 1/N rotations or 360/N degrees where N is the number of teeth on the gear. Cut .005&amp;quot; from this location.  Repeat this process of cutting and turning until the first cut is reached again.  You&#039;ll continue this process .005&amp;quot; at a pass until reaching the depth of cut (which is the tooth depth) which is determined by the formula above (2.157/Dp).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Post cutting cleanup=&lt;br /&gt;
After finishing the gear form, it is advisable to return it to the lathe and file away any burrs left behind from the process.  After this, the gear form should be complete, and all that is required for service is to cut a keyway and provide a shaft on which to mount the gear. If a &amp;quot;double-wide&amp;quot; gear was cut for a hydraulic motor, now would be the time to return to the lathe to part the gear into two halves.  Following this, It would be advisable to either end-mill .001-.002&amp;quot; from the cut sides (if so, be sure to include additional thickness in the blank before cutting) or very carefully face the cut ends using the lathe.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=External Links=&lt;br /&gt;
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Involute_gear&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Helpful Videos [http://www.youtube.com/user/Hobbynut]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Hydraulic Motors]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Colin</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Involute_Gear&amp;diff=22471</id>
		<title>Involute Gear</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Involute_Gear&amp;diff=22471"/>
		<updated>2011-04-26T03:13:54Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Colin: /* Things Needed */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;This page is very much a work in progress-improvements are forthcoming.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are several methods to cut an involute gear, but I will focus on hobbing techniques, as a simple hob can be made with the most basic lathe. (see [[Hob]])&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Things Needed=&lt;br /&gt;
1. A vertical milling machine (horizontal will probably work as well, but I will focus on vertical here)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
2. The appropriate gear-cutting [[Hob]] for the dimensions of the gear desired (this can be machined from carbon steel and this process will be documented in the hob article&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
3. An indexing head attachment for the milling machine [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Indexing_Head]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
4. A mandrel matching the inside diameter of the gear (where the shaft will be mounted when finished; this too can be machined on the lathe)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
5. Appropriately sized round stock of a material no harder than the material of the hob&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
6. An engine or benchtop lathe and appropriate attachments (3-jaw chuck, 4-jaw chuck, dial gauge, simple cutting tool, chuck attachment for tailstock, center drill, drill bit, reamer)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Blank Preparation=&lt;br /&gt;
First, the gear blank needs to be cut.  In the case of making a set of identical gears for a hydraulic [[gear pump]], a single double-wide gear can be made and cut in half when finished. If the thickness of the gear is very important, then the swarf of the blade that will be used to cut the gear in half must be considered when cutting the length of stock needed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Before mounting in the lathe, a length of roundstock should be cut. This step does not require precision, so a hacksaw will do in a pinch. (A chop saw is preferable)  The piece should then be mounted in a 3-jaw chuck on the lathe if possible (that is, if the piece will fit in the 3-jaw chuck)  A four jaw chuck may be used, but extra care must be taken to ensure that the part is centered. now the end of the piece should be machined to a smooth finish and center-drilled to roughly 3/16&amp;quot; after removing the piece from the chuck, turn it around and repeat the process used on the first end. (If the stock is short enough, it can be cut down to the outer diameter of the gear desired while still mounted in the chuck the first time, but it is advisable to center-drill the piece to mark the center of the hole where the shaft will be mounted.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When ready to trim down to diameter, ensure that the lathe RPM and feed rate are set properly for the diameter you are cutting from (before the cut) and the material being used.  The rough formula for RPM is (CS x 4)/D where CS is the cutting speed which is specified for the work material and D is the diameter of the workpiece. The feed rate used will depend on the material being used, shop practice, and the desired finish of the cut.  Typical lathe feedrates used for carbon steel are .002-.005&amp;quot;/revolution.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Now the hole by which the gear will be mounted should be machined.  This step will involve first drilling then reaming the hole to produce a smooth, precision finish on the inside of the gear.  First, the appropriate drill bit for the reamer to be used will be mounted in the chuck on the tailstock.  Now the hole will be drilled past the width of the gear, leaving deadspace so that the reamer can ream the entire width of the gear. Next, the drill bit will be replaced with the reamer, and the hole will be reamed to size.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Now the width of the gear to be cut will be cut from the end of the workpiece (twice that plus swarf for two identical gears). This should be done while still on the lathe to maintain precision thickness.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Prepare to Mill=&lt;br /&gt;
Now the gear blank should be mounted on the mandrel and the mandrel in a chuck.  The blank on the mandrel in the chuck should be checked for concentricity using a dial-gauge mounted on the tool-post on the lathe, hand turning the spindle.  Once properly centered on the mandrel and in the chuck, the entire chuck should be transferred to the milling machine and mounted in the rotary table or indexing head. At this time, make sure that the rotary table or indexing head is at a 90 degree angle to the spindle (so that the piece is parallel to the mill table)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In this article, I will focus on using the so-called &#039;parallel hob&#039; mentioned in [[hob]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The hob should be mounted in a collet and then on the mill spindle.  The quill should then be lowered so that one of the inner teeth of the hob is roughly centered on the horizontal diameter.  Lock the quill feed. the table should now be raised or lowered in .001&amp;quot; increments until centered within .001&amp;quot;. Lock the table z-axis.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Formulae and Cutting Details=&lt;br /&gt;
The final depth of cut into the blank should be equal to the tooth depth which is determined by the formula 2.157/Dp where Dp is the diametral pitch, or number of teeth per inch of pitch diameter.  Diametral pitch is determined by the ratio of the number of teeth to the pitch diameter. These three factors also determine the dimensions of the [[hob]] you&#039;ll require.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Just Start Cutting already -or- Hurry up and wait=&lt;br /&gt;
Now the head (again, rotary table or indexing head) should be locked in a known position, and proceed to cut .005&amp;quot; into the blank. Now rotate the work before cutting again by 1/N rotations or 360/N degrees where N is the number of teeth on the gear. Cut .005&amp;quot; from this location.  Repeat this process of cutting and turning until the first cut is reached again.  You&#039;ll continue this process .005&amp;quot; at a pass until reaching the depth of cut (which is the tooth depth) which is determined by the formula above (2.157/Dp).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Post cutting cleanup=&lt;br /&gt;
After finishing the gear form, it is advisable to return it to the lathe and file away any burrs left behind from the process.  After this, the gear form should be complete, and all that is required for service is to cut a keyway and provide a shaft on which to mount the gear. If a &amp;quot;double-wide&amp;quot; gear was cut for a hydraulic motor, now would be the time to return to the lathe to part the gear into two halves.  Following this, It would be advisable to either end-mill .001-.002&amp;quot; from the cut sides (if so, be sure to include additional thickness in the blank before cutting) or very carefully face the cut ends using the lathe.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=External Links=&lt;br /&gt;
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Involute_gear&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Helpful Videos [http://www.youtube.com/user/Hobbynut]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Hydraulic Motors]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Colin</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Involute_Gear&amp;diff=22470</id>
		<title>Involute Gear</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Involute_Gear&amp;diff=22470"/>
		<updated>2011-04-26T03:11:34Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Colin: /* Things Needed */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;This page is very much a work in progress-improvements are forthcoming.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are several methods to cut an involute gear, but I will focus on hobbing techniques, as a simple hob can be made with the most basic lathe. (see [[Hob]])&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Things Needed=&lt;br /&gt;
1. A vertical milling machine (horizontal will probably work as well, but I will focus on vertical here)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
2. The appropriate gear-cutting [[Hob]] for the dimensions of the gear desired (this can be machined from carbon steel and this process will be documented in the hob article&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
3. An indexing head attachment for the milling machine [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Indexing_Head]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
4. A mandrel matching the inside diameter of the gear (where the shaft will be mounted when finished)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
5. Appropriately sized round stock of a material no harder than the material of the hob&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
6. An engine or benchtop lathe and appropriate attachments&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Blank Preparation=&lt;br /&gt;
First, the gear blank needs to be cut.  In the case of making a set of identical gears for a hydraulic [[gear pump]], a single double-wide gear can be made and cut in half when finished. If the thickness of the gear is very important, then the swarf of the blade that will be used to cut the gear in half must be considered when cutting the length of stock needed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Before mounting in the lathe, a length of roundstock should be cut. This step does not require precision, so a hacksaw will do in a pinch. (A chop saw is preferable)  The piece should then be mounted in a 3-jaw chuck on the lathe if possible (that is, if the piece will fit in the 3-jaw chuck)  A four jaw chuck may be used, but extra care must be taken to ensure that the part is centered. now the end of the piece should be machined to a smooth finish and center-drilled to roughly 3/16&amp;quot; after removing the piece from the chuck, turn it around and repeat the process used on the first end. (If the stock is short enough, it can be cut down to the outer diameter of the gear desired while still mounted in the chuck the first time, but it is advisable to center-drill the piece to mark the center of the hole where the shaft will be mounted.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When ready to trim down to diameter, ensure that the lathe RPM and feed rate are set properly for the diameter you are cutting from (before the cut) and the material being used.  The rough formula for RPM is (CS x 4)/D where CS is the cutting speed which is specified for the work material and D is the diameter of the workpiece. The feed rate used will depend on the material being used, shop practice, and the desired finish of the cut.  Typical lathe feedrates used for carbon steel are .002-.005&amp;quot;/revolution.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Now the hole by which the gear will be mounted should be machined.  This step will involve first drilling then reaming the hole to produce a smooth, precision finish on the inside of the gear.  First, the appropriate drill bit for the reamer to be used will be mounted in the chuck on the tailstock.  Now the hole will be drilled past the width of the gear, leaving deadspace so that the reamer can ream the entire width of the gear. Next, the drill bit will be replaced with the reamer, and the hole will be reamed to size.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Now the width of the gear to be cut will be cut from the end of the workpiece (twice that plus swarf for two identical gears). This should be done while still on the lathe to maintain precision thickness.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Prepare to Mill=&lt;br /&gt;
Now the gear blank should be mounted on the mandrel and the mandrel in a chuck.  The blank on the mandrel in the chuck should be checked for concentricity using a dial-gauge mounted on the tool-post on the lathe, hand turning the spindle.  Once properly centered on the mandrel and in the chuck, the entire chuck should be transferred to the milling machine and mounted in the rotary table or indexing head. At this time, make sure that the rotary table or indexing head is at a 90 degree angle to the spindle (so that the piece is parallel to the mill table)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In this article, I will focus on using the so-called &#039;parallel hob&#039; mentioned in [[hob]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The hob should be mounted in a collet and then on the mill spindle.  The quill should then be lowered so that one of the inner teeth of the hob is roughly centered on the horizontal diameter.  Lock the quill feed. the table should now be raised or lowered in .001&amp;quot; increments until centered within .001&amp;quot;. Lock the table z-axis.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Formulae and Cutting Details=&lt;br /&gt;
The final depth of cut into the blank should be equal to the tooth depth which is determined by the formula 2.157/Dp where Dp is the diametral pitch, or number of teeth per inch of pitch diameter.  Diametral pitch is determined by the ratio of the number of teeth to the pitch diameter. These three factors also determine the dimensions of the [[hob]] you&#039;ll require.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Just Start Cutting already -or- Hurry up and wait=&lt;br /&gt;
Now the head (again, rotary table or indexing head) should be locked in a known position, and proceed to cut .005&amp;quot; into the blank. Now rotate the work before cutting again by 1/N rotations or 360/N degrees where N is the number of teeth on the gear. Cut .005&amp;quot; from this location.  Repeat this process of cutting and turning until the first cut is reached again.  You&#039;ll continue this process .005&amp;quot; at a pass until reaching the depth of cut (which is the tooth depth) which is determined by the formula above (2.157/Dp).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Post cutting cleanup=&lt;br /&gt;
After finishing the gear form, it is advisable to return it to the lathe and file away any burrs left behind from the process.  After this, the gear form should be complete, and all that is required for service is to cut a keyway and provide a shaft on which to mount the gear. If a &amp;quot;double-wide&amp;quot; gear was cut for a hydraulic motor, now would be the time to return to the lathe to part the gear into two halves.  Following this, It would be advisable to either end-mill .001-.002&amp;quot; from the cut sides (if so, be sure to include additional thickness in the blank before cutting) or very carefully face the cut ends using the lathe.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=External Links=&lt;br /&gt;
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Involute_gear&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Helpful Videos [http://www.youtube.com/user/Hobbynut]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Hydraulic Motors]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Colin</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Involute_Gear&amp;diff=22451</id>
		<title>Involute Gear</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Involute_Gear&amp;diff=22451"/>
		<updated>2011-04-26T01:49:39Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Colin: /* Prepare to Mill */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;This page is very much a work in progress-improvements are forthcoming.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are several methods to cut an involute gear, but I will focus on hobbing techniques, as a simple hob can be made with the most basic lathe. (see [[Hob]])&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Things Needed=&lt;br /&gt;
1. A vertical milling machine (horizontal will probably work as well, but I will focus on vertical here)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
2. The appropriate gear-cutting [[Hob]] for the dimensions of the gear desired&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
3. An indexing head attachment for the milling machine [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Indexing_Head]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
4. A mandrel matching the inside diameter of the gear (where the shaft will be mounted when finished)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
5. Appropriately sized round stock of a material no harder than the material of the hob&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
6. An engine or benchtop lathe and appropriate attachments&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Blank Preparation=&lt;br /&gt;
First, the gear blank needs to be cut.  In the case of making a set of identical gears for a hydraulic [[gear pump]], a single double-wide gear can be made and cut in half when finished. If the thickness of the gear is very important, then the swarf of the blade that will be used to cut the gear in half must be considered when cutting the length of stock needed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Before mounting in the lathe, a length of roundstock should be cut. This step does not require precision, so a hacksaw will do in a pinch. (A chop saw is preferable)  The piece should then be mounted in a 3-jaw chuck on the lathe if possible (that is, if the piece will fit in the 3-jaw chuck)  A four jaw chuck may be used, but extra care must be taken to ensure that the part is centered. now the end of the piece should be machined to a smooth finish and center-drilled to roughly 3/16&amp;quot; after removing the piece from the chuck, turn it around and repeat the process used on the first end. (If the stock is short enough, it can be cut down to the outer diameter of the gear desired while still mounted in the chuck the first time, but it is advisable to center-drill the piece to mark the center of the hole where the shaft will be mounted.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When ready to trim down to diameter, ensure that the lathe RPM and feed rate are set properly for the diameter you are cutting from (before the cut) and the material being used.  The rough formula for RPM is (CS x 4)/D where CS is the cutting speed which is specified for the work material and D is the diameter of the workpiece. The feed rate used will depend on the material being used, shop practice, and the desired finish of the cut.  Typical lathe feedrates used for carbon steel are .002-.005&amp;quot;/revolution.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Now the hole by which the gear will be mounted should be machined.  This step will involve first drilling then reaming the hole to produce a smooth, precision finish on the inside of the gear.  First, the appropriate drill bit for the reamer to be used will be mounted in the chuck on the tailstock.  Now the hole will be drilled past the width of the gear, leaving deadspace so that the reamer can ream the entire width of the gear. Next, the drill bit will be replaced with the reamer, and the hole will be reamed to size.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Now the width of the gear to be cut will be cut from the end of the workpiece (twice that plus swarf for two identical gears). This should be done while still on the lathe to maintain precision thickness.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Prepare to Mill=&lt;br /&gt;
Now the gear blank should be mounted on the mandrel and the mandrel in a chuck.  The blank on the mandrel in the chuck should be checked for concentricity using a dial-gauge mounted on the tool-post on the lathe, hand turning the spindle.  Once properly centered on the mandrel and in the chuck, the entire chuck should be transferred to the milling machine and mounted in the rotary table or indexing head. At this time, make sure that the rotary table or indexing head is at a 90 degree angle to the spindle (so that the piece is parallel to the mill table)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In this article, I will focus on using the so-called &#039;parallel hob&#039; mentioned in [[hob]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The hob should be mounted in a collet and then on the mill spindle.  The quill should then be lowered so that one of the inner teeth of the hob is roughly centered on the horizontal diameter.  Lock the quill feed. the table should now be raised or lowered in .001&amp;quot; increments until centered within .001&amp;quot;. Lock the table z-axis.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Formulae and Cutting Details=&lt;br /&gt;
The final depth of cut into the blank should be equal to the tooth depth which is determined by the formula 2.157/Dp where Dp is the diametral pitch, or number of teeth per inch of pitch diameter.  Diametral pitch is determined by the ratio of the number of teeth to the pitch diameter. These three factors also determine the dimensions of the [[hob]] you&#039;ll require.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Just Start Cutting already -or- Hurry up and wait=&lt;br /&gt;
Now the head (again, rotary table or indexing head) should be locked in a known position, and proceed to cut .005&amp;quot; into the blank. Now rotate the work before cutting again by 1/N rotations or 360/N degrees where N is the number of teeth on the gear. Cut .005&amp;quot; from this location.  Repeat this process of cutting and turning until the first cut is reached again.  You&#039;ll continue this process .005&amp;quot; at a pass until reaching the depth of cut (which is the tooth depth) which is determined by the formula above (2.157/Dp).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Post cutting cleanup=&lt;br /&gt;
After finishing the gear form, it is advisable to return it to the lathe and file away any burrs left behind from the process.  After this, the gear form should be complete, and all that is required for service is to cut a keyway and provide a shaft on which to mount the gear. If a &amp;quot;double-wide&amp;quot; gear was cut for a hydraulic motor, now would be the time to return to the lathe to part the gear into two halves.  Following this, It would be advisable to either end-mill .001-.002&amp;quot; from the cut sides (if so, be sure to include additional thickness in the blank before cutting) or very carefully face the cut ends using the lathe.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=External Links=&lt;br /&gt;
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Involute_gear&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Helpful Videos [http://www.youtube.com/user/Hobbynut]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Hydraulic Motors]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Colin</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Involute_Gear&amp;diff=22450</id>
		<title>Involute Gear</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Involute_Gear&amp;diff=22450"/>
		<updated>2011-04-26T01:48:22Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Colin: /* Things Needed */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;This page is very much a work in progress-improvements are forthcoming.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are several methods to cut an involute gear, but I will focus on hobbing techniques, as a simple hob can be made with the most basic lathe. (see [[Hob]])&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Things Needed=&lt;br /&gt;
1. A vertical milling machine (horizontal will probably work as well, but I will focus on vertical here)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
2. The appropriate gear-cutting [[Hob]] for the dimensions of the gear desired&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
3. An indexing head attachment for the milling machine [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Indexing_Head]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
4. A mandrel matching the inside diameter of the gear (where the shaft will be mounted when finished)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
5. Appropriately sized round stock of a material no harder than the material of the hob&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
6. An engine or benchtop lathe and appropriate attachments&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Blank Preparation=&lt;br /&gt;
First, the gear blank needs to be cut.  In the case of making a set of identical gears for a hydraulic [[gear pump]], a single double-wide gear can be made and cut in half when finished. If the thickness of the gear is very important, then the swarf of the blade that will be used to cut the gear in half must be considered when cutting the length of stock needed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Before mounting in the lathe, a length of roundstock should be cut. This step does not require precision, so a hacksaw will do in a pinch. (A chop saw is preferable)  The piece should then be mounted in a 3-jaw chuck on the lathe if possible (that is, if the piece will fit in the 3-jaw chuck)  A four jaw chuck may be used, but extra care must be taken to ensure that the part is centered. now the end of the piece should be machined to a smooth finish and center-drilled to roughly 3/16&amp;quot; after removing the piece from the chuck, turn it around and repeat the process used on the first end. (If the stock is short enough, it can be cut down to the outer diameter of the gear desired while still mounted in the chuck the first time, but it is advisable to center-drill the piece to mark the center of the hole where the shaft will be mounted.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When ready to trim down to diameter, ensure that the lathe RPM and feed rate are set properly for the diameter you are cutting from (before the cut) and the material being used.  The rough formula for RPM is (CS x 4)/D where CS is the cutting speed which is specified for the work material and D is the diameter of the workpiece. The feed rate used will depend on the material being used, shop practice, and the desired finish of the cut.  Typical lathe feedrates used for carbon steel are .002-.005&amp;quot;/revolution.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Now the hole by which the gear will be mounted should be machined.  This step will involve first drilling then reaming the hole to produce a smooth, precision finish on the inside of the gear.  First, the appropriate drill bit for the reamer to be used will be mounted in the chuck on the tailstock.  Now the hole will be drilled past the width of the gear, leaving deadspace so that the reamer can ream the entire width of the gear. Next, the drill bit will be replaced with the reamer, and the hole will be reamed to size.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Now the width of the gear to be cut will be cut from the end of the workpiece (twice that plus swarf for two identical gears). This should be done while still on the lathe to maintain precision thickness.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Prepare to Mill=&lt;br /&gt;
Now the gear blank should be mounted on the mandrel and the mandrel in a chuck.  The blank on the mandrel in the chuck should be checked for concentricity using a dial-gauge mounted on the tool-post on the lathe, hand turning the spindle.  Once properly centered on the mandrel and in the chuck, the entire chuck should be transferred to the milling machine and mounted in the rotary table or indexing head. At this time, make sure that the rotary table or indexing head is at a 90 degree angle to the spindle (so that the piece is parallel to the mill table)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In this article, I will focus on using the so-called &#039;parallel hob&#039; mentioned in [[hob]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The hob should be mounted in a collet and then on the mill spindle.  The quill should then be lowered so that one of the inner teeth of the hob is roughly centered on the horizontal diameter.  Lock the quill feed. the table should now be raised or lowered in .001&amp;quot; increments until centered within .001&amp;quot;. Lock the table z-axis. This can be checked by placing a machinist rule against the work and moving the table to push the work against the hob.  The rule should be perpendicular to the table if the hob is at the proper height.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Formulae and Cutting Details=&lt;br /&gt;
The final depth of cut into the blank should be equal to the tooth depth which is determined by the formula 2.157/Dp where Dp is the diametral pitch, or number of teeth per inch of pitch diameter.  Diametral pitch is determined by the ratio of the number of teeth to the pitch diameter. These three factors also determine the dimensions of the [[hob]] you&#039;ll require.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Just Start Cutting already -or- Hurry up and wait=&lt;br /&gt;
Now the head (again, rotary table or indexing head) should be locked in a known position, and proceed to cut .005&amp;quot; into the blank. Now rotate the work before cutting again by 1/N rotations or 360/N degrees where N is the number of teeth on the gear. Cut .005&amp;quot; from this location.  Repeat this process of cutting and turning until the first cut is reached again.  You&#039;ll continue this process .005&amp;quot; at a pass until reaching the depth of cut (which is the tooth depth) which is determined by the formula above (2.157/Dp).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Post cutting cleanup=&lt;br /&gt;
After finishing the gear form, it is advisable to return it to the lathe and file away any burrs left behind from the process.  After this, the gear form should be complete, and all that is required for service is to cut a keyway and provide a shaft on which to mount the gear. If a &amp;quot;double-wide&amp;quot; gear was cut for a hydraulic motor, now would be the time to return to the lathe to part the gear into two halves.  Following this, It would be advisable to either end-mill .001-.002&amp;quot; from the cut sides (if so, be sure to include additional thickness in the blank before cutting) or very carefully face the cut ends using the lathe.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=External Links=&lt;br /&gt;
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Involute_gear&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Helpful Videos [http://www.youtube.com/user/Hobbynut]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Hydraulic Motors]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Colin</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Involute_Gear&amp;diff=22449</id>
		<title>Involute Gear</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Involute_Gear&amp;diff=22449"/>
		<updated>2011-04-26T01:47:42Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Colin: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;This page is very much a work in progress-improvements are forthcoming.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are several methods to cut an involute gear, but I will focus on hobbing techniques, as a simple hob can be made with the most basic lathe. (see [[Hob]])&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Things Needed=&lt;br /&gt;
1. A vertical milling machine (horizontal will probably work as well, but I will focus on vertical here)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
2. The appropriate gear-cutting [[Hob]] for the dimensions of the gear desired&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
3. An indexing head attachment for the milling machine [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Indexing_Head]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
4. A mandrel matching the inside diameter of the gear (where the shaft will be mounted when finished)&lt;br /&gt;
5. Appropriately sized round stock of a material no harder than the material of the hob&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
6. An engine or benchtop lathe and appropriate attachments&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Blank Preparation=&lt;br /&gt;
First, the gear blank needs to be cut.  In the case of making a set of identical gears for a hydraulic [[gear pump]], a single double-wide gear can be made and cut in half when finished. If the thickness of the gear is very important, then the swarf of the blade that will be used to cut the gear in half must be considered when cutting the length of stock needed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Before mounting in the lathe, a length of roundstock should be cut. This step does not require precision, so a hacksaw will do in a pinch. (A chop saw is preferable)  The piece should then be mounted in a 3-jaw chuck on the lathe if possible (that is, if the piece will fit in the 3-jaw chuck)  A four jaw chuck may be used, but extra care must be taken to ensure that the part is centered. now the end of the piece should be machined to a smooth finish and center-drilled to roughly 3/16&amp;quot; after removing the piece from the chuck, turn it around and repeat the process used on the first end. (If the stock is short enough, it can be cut down to the outer diameter of the gear desired while still mounted in the chuck the first time, but it is advisable to center-drill the piece to mark the center of the hole where the shaft will be mounted.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When ready to trim down to diameter, ensure that the lathe RPM and feed rate are set properly for the diameter you are cutting from (before the cut) and the material being used.  The rough formula for RPM is (CS x 4)/D where CS is the cutting speed which is specified for the work material and D is the diameter of the workpiece. The feed rate used will depend on the material being used, shop practice, and the desired finish of the cut.  Typical lathe feedrates used for carbon steel are .002-.005&amp;quot;/revolution.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Now the hole by which the gear will be mounted should be machined.  This step will involve first drilling then reaming the hole to produce a smooth, precision finish on the inside of the gear.  First, the appropriate drill bit for the reamer to be used will be mounted in the chuck on the tailstock.  Now the hole will be drilled past the width of the gear, leaving deadspace so that the reamer can ream the entire width of the gear. Next, the drill bit will be replaced with the reamer, and the hole will be reamed to size.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Now the width of the gear to be cut will be cut from the end of the workpiece (twice that plus swarf for two identical gears). This should be done while still on the lathe to maintain precision thickness.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Prepare to Mill=&lt;br /&gt;
Now the gear blank should be mounted on the mandrel and the mandrel in a chuck.  The blank on the mandrel in the chuck should be checked for concentricity using a dial-gauge mounted on the tool-post on the lathe, hand turning the spindle.  Once properly centered on the mandrel and in the chuck, the entire chuck should be transferred to the milling machine and mounted in the rotary table or indexing head. At this time, make sure that the rotary table or indexing head is at a 90 degree angle to the spindle (so that the piece is parallel to the mill table)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In this article, I will focus on using the so-called &#039;parallel hob&#039; mentioned in [[hob]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The hob should be mounted in a collet and then on the mill spindle.  The quill should then be lowered so that one of the inner teeth of the hob is roughly centered on the horizontal diameter.  Lock the quill feed. the table should now be raised or lowered in .001&amp;quot; increments until centered within .001&amp;quot;. Lock the table z-axis. This can be checked by placing a machinist rule against the work and moving the table to push the work against the hob.  The rule should be perpendicular to the table if the hob is at the proper height.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Formulae and Cutting Details=&lt;br /&gt;
The final depth of cut into the blank should be equal to the tooth depth which is determined by the formula 2.157/Dp where Dp is the diametral pitch, or number of teeth per inch of pitch diameter.  Diametral pitch is determined by the ratio of the number of teeth to the pitch diameter. These three factors also determine the dimensions of the [[hob]] you&#039;ll require.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Just Start Cutting already -or- Hurry up and wait=&lt;br /&gt;
Now the head (again, rotary table or indexing head) should be locked in a known position, and proceed to cut .005&amp;quot; into the blank. Now rotate the work before cutting again by 1/N rotations or 360/N degrees where N is the number of teeth on the gear. Cut .005&amp;quot; from this location.  Repeat this process of cutting and turning until the first cut is reached again.  You&#039;ll continue this process .005&amp;quot; at a pass until reaching the depth of cut (which is the tooth depth) which is determined by the formula above (2.157/Dp).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Post cutting cleanup=&lt;br /&gt;
After finishing the gear form, it is advisable to return it to the lathe and file away any burrs left behind from the process.  After this, the gear form should be complete, and all that is required for service is to cut a keyway and provide a shaft on which to mount the gear. If a &amp;quot;double-wide&amp;quot; gear was cut for a hydraulic motor, now would be the time to return to the lathe to part the gear into two halves.  Following this, It would be advisable to either end-mill .001-.002&amp;quot; from the cut sides (if so, be sure to include additional thickness in the blank before cutting) or very carefully face the cut ends using the lathe.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=External Links=&lt;br /&gt;
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Involute_gear&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Helpful Videos [http://www.youtube.com/user/Hobbynut]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Hydraulic Motors]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Colin</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Involute_Gear&amp;diff=22448</id>
		<title>Involute Gear</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Involute_Gear&amp;diff=22448"/>
		<updated>2011-04-26T01:47:12Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Colin: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;This page is very much a work in progress-improvements are forthcoming.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are several methods to cut an involute gear, but I will focus on hobbing techniques, as a simple hob can be made with the most basic lathe. (see [[Hob]])&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Things Needed=&lt;br /&gt;
1. A vertical milling machine (horizontal will probably work as well, but I will focus on vertical here)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
2. The appropriate gear-cutting [[Hob]] for the dimensions of the gear desired&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
3. An indexing head attachment for the milling machine [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Indexing_Head]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
4. A mandrel matching the inside diameter of the gear (where the shaft will be mounted when finished)&lt;br /&gt;
5. Appropriately sized round stock of a material no harder than the material of the hob&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
6. An engine or benchtop lathe and appropriate attachments&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Blank Preparation=&lt;br /&gt;
First, the gear blank needs to be cut.  In the case of making a set of identical gears for a hydraulic [[gear pump]], a single double-wide gear can be made and cut in half when finished. If the thickness of the gear is very important, then the swarf of the blade that will be used to cut the gear in half must be considered when cutting the length of stock needed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Before mounting in the lathe, a length of roundstock should be cut. This step does not require precision, so a hacksaw will do in a pinch. (A chop saw is preferable)  The piece should then be mounted in a 3-jaw chuck on the lathe if possible (that is, if the piece will fit in the 3-jaw chuck)  A four jaw chuck may be used, but extra care must be taken to ensure that the part is centered. now the end of the piece should be machined to a smooth finish and center-drilled to roughly 3/16&amp;quot; after removing the piece from the chuck, turn it around and repeat the process used on the first end. (If the stock is short enough, it can be cut down to the outer diameter of the gear desired while still mounted in the chuck the first time, but it is advisable to center-drill the piece to mark the center of the hole where the shaft will be mounted.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When ready to trim down to diameter, ensure that the lathe RPM and feed rate are set properly for the diameter you are cutting from (before the cut) and the material being used.  The rough formula for RPM is (CS x 4)/D where CS is the cutting speed which is specified for the work material and D is the diameter of the workpiece. The feed rate used will depend on the material being used, shop practice, and the desired finish of the cut.  Typical lathe feedrates used for carbon steel are .002-.005&amp;quot;/revolution.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Now the hole by which the gear will be mounted should be machined.  This step will involve first drilling then reaming the hole to produce a smooth, precision finish on the inside of the gear.  First, the appropriate drill bit for the reamer to be used will be mounted in the chuck on the tailstock.  Now the hole will be drilled past the width of the gear, leaving deadspace so that the reamer can ream the entire width of the gear. Next, the drill bit will be replaced with the reamer, and the hole will be reamed to size.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Now the width of the gear to be cut will be cut from the end of the workpiece (twice that plus swarf for two identical gears). This should be done while still on the lathe to maintain precision thickness.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Prepare to Mill=&lt;br /&gt;
Now the gear blank should be mounted on the mandrel and the mandrel in a chuck.  The blank on the mandrel in the chuck should be checked for concentricity using a dial-gauge mounted on the tool-post on the lathe, hand turning the spindle.  Once properly centered on the mandrel and in the chuck, the entire chuck should be transferred to the milling machine and mounted in the rotary table or indexing head. At this time, make sure that the rotary table or indexing head is at a 90 degree angle to the spindle (so that the piece is parallel to the mill table)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In this article, I will focus on using the so-called &#039;parallel hob&#039; mentioned in [[hob]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The hob should be mounted in a collet and then on the mill spindle.  The quill should then be lowered so that one of the inner teeth of the hob is roughly centered on the horizontal diameter.  Lock the quill feed. the table should now be raised or lowered in .001&amp;quot; increments until centered within .001&amp;quot;. Lock the table z-axis. This can be checked by placing a machinist rule against the work and moving the table to push the work against the hob.  The rule should be perpendicular to the table if the hob is at the proper height.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Formulae and Cutting Details=&lt;br /&gt;
The final depth of cut into the blank should be equal to the tooth depth which is determined by the formula 2.157/Dp where Dp is the diametral pitch, or number of teeth per inch of pitch diameter.  Diametral pitch is determined by the ratio of the number of teeth to the pitch diameter. These three factors also determine the dimensions of the [[hob]] you&#039;ll require.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Just Start Cutting already -or- Hurry up and wait=&lt;br /&gt;
Now the head (again, rotary table or indexing head) should be locked in a known position, and proceed to cut .005&amp;quot; into the blank. Now rotate the work before cutting again by 1/N rotations or 360/N degrees where N is the number of teeth on the gear. Cut .005&amp;quot; from this location.  Repeat this process of cutting and turning until the first cut is reached again.  You&#039;ll continue this process .005&amp;quot; at a pass until reaching the depth of cut (which is the tooth depth) which is determined by the formula above (2.157/Dp).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Post cutting cleanup=&lt;br /&gt;
After finishing the gear form, it is advisable to return it to the lathe and file away any burrs left behind from the process.  After this, the gear form should be complete, and all that is required for service is to cut a keyway and provide a shaft on which to mount the gear. If a &amp;quot;double-wide&amp;quot; gear was cut for a hydraulic motor, now would be the time to return to the lathe to part the gear into two halves.  Following this, It would be advisable to either end-mill .001-.002&amp;quot; from the cut sides (if so, be sure to include additional thickness in the blank before cutting) or very carefully face the cut ends using the lathe.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=External Links=&lt;br /&gt;
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Involute_gear&lt;br /&gt;
Helpful Videos [http://www.youtube.com/user/Hobbynut]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Hydraulic Motors]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Colin</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Involute_Gear&amp;diff=22447</id>
		<title>Involute Gear</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Involute_Gear&amp;diff=22447"/>
		<updated>2011-04-26T01:45:45Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Colin: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;This page is very much a work in progress-improvements are forthcoming.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are several methods to cut an involute gear, but I will focus on hobbing techniques, as a simple hob can be made with the most basic lathe. (see [[Hob]])&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Things Needed=&lt;br /&gt;
1. A vertical milling machine (horizontal will probably work as well, but I will focus on vertical here)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
2. The appropriate gear-cutting [[Hob]] for the dimensions of the gear desired&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
3. An indexing head attachment for the milling machine [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Indexing_Head]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
4. A mandrel matching the inside diameter of the gear (where the shaft will be mounted when finished)&lt;br /&gt;
5. Appropriately sized round stock of a material no harder than the material of the hob&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
6. An engine or benchtop lathe and appropriate attachments&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Blank Preparation=&lt;br /&gt;
First, the gear blank needs to be cut.  In the case of making a set of identical gears for a hydraulic [[gear pump]], a single double-wide gear can be made and cut in half when finished. If the thickness of the gear is very important, then the swarf of the blade that will be used to cut the gear in half must be considered when cutting the length of stock needed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Before mounting in the lathe, a length of roundstock should be cut. This step does not require precision, so a hacksaw will do in a pinch. (A chop saw is preferable)  The piece should then be mounted in a 3-jaw chuck on the lathe if possible (that is, if the piece will fit in the 3-jaw chuck)  A four jaw chuck may be used, but extra care must be taken to ensure that the part is centered. now the end of the piece should be machined to a smooth finish and center-drilled to roughly 3/16&amp;quot; after removing the piece from the chuck, turn it around and repeat the process used on the first end. (If the stock is short enough, it can be cut down to the outer diameter of the gear desired while still mounted in the chuck the first time, but it is advisable to center-drill the piece to mark the center of the hole where the shaft will be mounted.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When ready to trim down to diameter, ensure that the lathe RPM and feed rate are set properly for the diameter you are cutting from (before the cut) and the material being used.  The rough formula for RPM is (CS x 4)/D where CS is the cutting speed which is specified for the work material and D is the diameter of the workpiece. The feed rate used will depend on the material being used, shop practice, and the desired finish of the cut.  Typical lathe feedrates used for carbon steel are .002-.005&amp;quot;/revolution.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Now the hole by which the gear will be mounted should be machined.  This step will involve first drilling then reaming the hole to produce a smooth, precision finish on the inside of the gear.  First, the appropriate drill bit for the reamer to be used will be mounted in the chuck on the tailstock.  Now the hole will be drilled past the width of the gear, leaving deadspace so that the reamer can ream the entire width of the gear. Next, the drill bit will be replaced with the reamer, and the hole will be reamed to size.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Now the width of the gear to be cut will be cut from the end of the workpiece (twice that plus swarf for two identical gears). This should be done while still on the lathe to maintain precision thickness.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Prepare to Mill=&lt;br /&gt;
Now the gear blank should be mounted on the mandrel and the mandrel in a chuck.  The blank on the mandrel in the chuck should be checked for concentricity using a dial-gauge mounted on the tool-post on the lathe, hand turning the spindle.  Once properly centered on the mandrel and in the chuck, the entire chuck should be transferred to the milling machine and mounted in the rotary table or indexing head. At this time, make sure that the rotary table or indexing head is at a 90 degree angle to the spindle (so that the piece is parallel to the mill table)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In this article, I will focus on using the so-called &#039;parallel hob&#039; mentioned in [[hob]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The hob should be mounted in a collet and then on the mill spindle.  The quill should then be lowered so that one of the inner teeth of the hob is roughly centered on the horizontal diameter.  Lock the quill feed. the table should now be raised or lowered in .001&amp;quot; increments until centered within .001&amp;quot;. Lock the table z-axis. This can be checked by placing a machinist rule against the work and moving the table to push the work against the hob.  The rule should be perpendicular to the table if the hob is at the proper height.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Formulae and Cutting Details=&lt;br /&gt;
The final depth of cut into the blank should be equal to the tooth depth which is determined by the formula 2.157/Dp where Dp is the diametral pitch, or number of teeth per inch of pitch diameter.  Diametral pitch is determined by the ratio of the number of teeth to the pitch diameter. These three factors also determine the dimensions of the [[hob]] you&#039;ll require.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Just Start Cutting already -or- Hurry up and wait=&lt;br /&gt;
Now the head (again, rotary table or indexing head) should be locked in a known position, and proceed to cut .005&amp;quot; into the blank. Now rotate the work before cutting again by 1/N rotations or 360/N degrees where N is the number of teeth on the gear. Cut .005&amp;quot; from this location.  Repeat this process of cutting and turning until the first cut is reached again.  You&#039;ll continue this process .005&amp;quot; at a pass until reaching the depth of cut (which is the tooth depth) which is determined by the formula above (2.157/Dp).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Post cutting cleanup=&lt;br /&gt;
After finishing the gear form, it is advisable to return it to the lathe and file away any burrs left behind from the process.  After this, the gear form should be complete, and all that is required for service is to cut a keyway and provide a shaft on which to mount the gear. If a &amp;quot;double-wide&amp;quot; gear was cut for a hydraulic motor, now would be the time to return to the lathe to part the gear into two halves.  Following this, It would be advisable to either end-mill .001-.002&amp;quot; from the cut sides (if so, be sure to include additional thickness in the blank before cutting) or very carefully face the cut ends using the lathe.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Involute_gear&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Hydraulic Motors]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Colin</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Involute_Gear&amp;diff=22446</id>
		<title>Involute Gear</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Involute_Gear&amp;diff=22446"/>
		<updated>2011-04-26T01:40:05Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Colin: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;This page is very much a work in progress-improvements are forthcoming.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are several methods to cut an involute gear, but I will focus on hobbing techniques, as a simple hob can be made with the most basic lathe. (see [[Hob]])&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The tools necessary for this process include:&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
1. A vertical milling machine (horizontal will probably work as well, but I will focus on vertical here)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
2. The appropriate gear-cutting [[Hob]] for the dimensions of the gear desired&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
3. An indexing head attachment for the milling machine [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Indexing_Head]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
4. A mandrel matching the inside diameter of the gear (where the shaft will be mounted when finished)&lt;br /&gt;
5. Appropriately sized round stock of a material no harder than the material of the hob&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
6. An engine or benchtop lathe and appropriate attachments&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
First, the gear blank needs to be cut.  In the case of making a set of identical gears for a hydraulic [[gear pump]], a single double-wide gear can be made and cut in half when finished. If the thickness of the gear is very important, then the swarf of the blade that will be used to cut the gear in half must be considered when cutting the length of stock needed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Before mounting in the lathe, a length of roundstock should be cut. This step does not require precision, so a hacksaw will do in a pinch. (A chop saw is preferable)  The piece should then be mounted in a 3-jaw chuck on the lathe if possible (that is, if the piece will fit in the 3-jaw chuck)  A four jaw chuck may be used, but extra care must be taken to ensure that the part is centered. now the end of the piece should be machined to a smooth finish and center-drilled to roughly 3/16&amp;quot; after removing the piece from the chuck, turn it around and repeat the process used on the first end. (If the stock is short enough, it can be cut down to the outer diameter of the gear desired while still mounted in the chuck the first time, but it is advisable to center-drill the piece to mark the center of the hole where the shaft will be mounted.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When ready to trim down to diameter, ensure that the lathe RPM and feed rate are set properly for the diameter you are cutting from (before the cut) and the material being used.  The rough formula for RPM is (CS x 4)/D where CS is the cutting speed which is specified for the work material and D is the diameter of the workpiece. The feed rate used will depend on the material being used, shop practice, and the desired finish of the cut.  Typical lathe feedrates used for carbon steel are .002-.005&amp;quot;/revolution.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Now the hole by which the gear will be mounted should be machined.  This step will involve first drilling then reaming the hole to produce a smooth, precision finish on the inside of the gear.  First, the appropriate drill bit for the reamer to be used will be mounted in the chuck on the tailstock.  Now the hole will be drilled past the width of the gear, leaving deadspace so that the reamer can ream the entire width of the gear. Next, the drill bit will be replaced with the reamer, and the hole will be reamed to size.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Now the width of the gear to be cut will be cut from the end of the workpiece (twice that plus swarf for two identical gears). This should be done while still on the lathe to maintain precision thickness.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Now the gear blank should be mounted on the mandrel and the mandrel in a chuck.  The blank on the mandrel in the chuck should be checked for concentricity using a dial-gauge mounted on the tool-post on the lathe, hand turning the spindle.  Once properly centered on the mandrel and in the chuck, the entire chuck should be transferred to the milling machine and mounted in the rotary table or indexing head. At this time, make sure that the rotary table or indexing head is at a 90 degree angle to the spindle (so that the piece is parallel to the mill table)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In this article, I will focus on using the so-called &#039;parallel hob&#039; mentioned in [[hob]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The hob should be mounted in a collet and then on the mill spindle.  The quill should then be lowered so that one of the inner teeth of the hob is roughly centered on the horizontal diameter.  Lock the quill feed. the table should now be raised or lowered in .001&amp;quot; increments until centered within .001&amp;quot;. Lock the table z-axis. This can be checked by placing a machinist rule against the work and moving the table to push the work against the hob.  The rule should be perpendicular to the table if the hob is at the proper height.  The actual process of cutting the gear may now proceed.  The final depth of cut into the blank should be equal to the tooth depth which is determined by the formula 2.157/Dp where Dp is the diametral pitch, or number of teeth per inch of pitch diameter.  Diametral pitch is determined by the ratio of the number of teeth to the pitch diameter. These three factors also determine the dimensions of the [[hob]] you&#039;ll require.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Now the head (again, rotary table or indexing head) should be locked in a known position, and proceed to cut .005&amp;quot; into the blank. Now rotate the work before cutting again by 1/N rotations or 360/N degrees where N is the number of teeth on the gear. Cut .005&amp;quot; from this location.  Repeat this process of cutting and turning until the first cut is reached again.  You&#039;ll continue this process .005&amp;quot; at a pass until reaching the depth of cut (which is the tooth depth) which is determined by the formula above (2.157/Dp).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
After finishing the gear form, it is advisable to return it to the lathe and file away any burrs left behind from the process.  After this, the gear form should be complete, and all that is required for service is to cut a keyway and provide a shaft on which to mount the gear. If a &amp;quot;double-wide&amp;quot; gear was cut for a hydraulic motor, now would be the time to return to the lathe to part the gear into two halves.  Following this, It would be advisable to either end-mill .001-.002&amp;quot; from the cut sides (if so, be sure to include additional thickness in the blank before cutting) or very carefully face the cut ends using the lathe.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Involute_gear&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Hydraulic Motors]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Colin</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Involute_Gear&amp;diff=22445</id>
		<title>Involute Gear</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Involute_Gear&amp;diff=22445"/>
		<updated>2011-04-26T01:30:05Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Colin: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;This page is very much a work in progress-improvements are forthcoming.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are several methods to cut an involute gear, but I will focus on hobbing techniques, as a simple hob can be made with the most basic lathe. (see [[Hob]])&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The tools necessary for this process include:&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
1. A vertical milling machine (horizontal will probably work as well, but I will focus on vertical here)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
2. The appropriate gear-cutting [[Hob]] for the dimensions of the gear desired&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
3. An indexing head attachment for the milling machine [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Indexing_Head]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
4. A mandrel matching the inside diameter of the gear (where the shaft will be mounted when finished)&lt;br /&gt;
5. Appropriately sized round stock of a material no harder than the material of the hob&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
6. An engine or benchtop lathe and appropriate attachments&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
First, the gear blank needs to be cut.  In the case of making a set of identical gears for a hydraulic [[gear pump]], a single double-wide gear can be made and cut in half when finished. If the thickness of the gear is very important, then the swarf of the blade that will be used to cut the gear in half must be considered when cutting the length of stock needed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Before mounting in the lathe, a length of roundstock should be cut. This step does not require precision, so a hacksaw will do in a pinch. (A chop saw is preferable)  The piece should then be mounted in a 3-jaw chuck on the lathe if possible (that is, if the piece will fit in the 3-jaw chuck)  A four jaw chuck may be used, but extra care must be taken to ensure that the part is centered. now the end of the piece should be machined to a smooth finish and center-drilled to roughly 3/16&amp;quot; after removing the piece from the chuck, turn it around and repeat the process used on the first end. (If the stock is short enough, it can be cut down to the outer diameter of the gear desired while still mounted in the chuck the first time, but it is advisable to center-drill the piece to mark the center of the hole where the shaft will be mounted.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When ready to trim down to diameter, ensure that the lathe RPM and feed rate are set properly for the diameter you are cutting from (before the cut) and the material being used.  The rough formula for RPM is (CS x 4)/D where CS is the cutting speed which is specified for the work material and D is the diameter of the workpiece. The feed rate used will depend on the material being used, shop practice, and the desired finish of the cut.  Typical lathe feedrates used for carbon steel are .002-.005&amp;quot;/revolution.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Now the hole by which the gear will be mounted should be machined.  This step will involve first drilling then reaming the hole to produce a smooth, precision finish on the inside of the gear.  First, the appropriate drill bit for the reamer to be used will be mounted in the chuck on the tailstock.  Now the hole will be drilled past the width of the gear, leaving deadspace so that the reamer can ream the entire width of the gear. Next, the drill bit will be replaced with the reamer, and the hole will be reamed to size.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Now the width of the gear to be cut will be cut from the end of the workpiece (twice that plus swarf for two identical gears). This should be done while still on the lathe to maintain precision thickness.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Now the gear blank should be mounted on the mandrel and the mandrel in a chuck.  The blank on the mandrel in the chuck should be checked for concentricity using a dial-gauge mounted on the tool-post on the lathe, hand turning the spindle.  Once properly centered on the mandrel and in the chuck, the entire chuck should be transferred to the milling machine and mounted in the rotary table or indexing head. At this time, make sure that the rotary table or indexing head is at a 90 degree angle to the spindle (so that the piece is parallel to the mill table)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In this article, I will focus on using the so-called &#039;parallel hob&#039; mentioned in [[hob]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The hob should be mounted in a collet and then on the mill spindle.  The quill should then be lowered so that one of the inner teeth of the hob is roughly centered on the horizontal diameter.  Lock the quill feed. the table should now be raised or lowered in .001&amp;quot; increments until centered within .001&amp;quot;. Lock the table z-axis. This can be checked by placing a machinist rule against the work and moving the table to push the work against the hob.  The rule should be perpendicular to the table if the hob is at the proper height.  The actual process of cutting the gear may now proceed.  The final depth of cut into the blank should be equal to the tooth depth which is determined by the formula 2.157/Dp where Dp is the diametral pitch, or number of teeth per inch of pitch diameter.  Diametral pitch is determined by the ratio of the number of teeth to the pitch diameter. These three factors also determine the dimensions of the [[hob]] you&#039;ll require.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Now the head (again, rotary table or indexing head) should be locked in a known position, and proceed to cut .005&amp;quot; into the blank. Now rotate the work before cutting again by 1/N rotations or 360/N degrees where N is the number of teeth on the gear. Cut .005&amp;quot; from this location.  Repeat this process of cutting and turning until the first cut is reached again.  You&#039;ll continue this process .005&amp;quot; at a pass until reaching the depth of cut (which is the tooth depth) which is determined by the formula above (2.157/Dp).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
After finishing the gear form, it is advisable to return it to the lathe and file away any burrs left behind from the process.  After this, the gear form should be complete, and all that is required for service is to cut a keyway and provide a shaft on which to mount the gear.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Involute_gear&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Hydraulic Motors]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Colin</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Involute_Gear&amp;diff=22441</id>
		<title>Involute Gear</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Involute_Gear&amp;diff=22441"/>
		<updated>2011-04-26T00:42:22Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Colin: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;This page is very much a work in progress-improvements are forthcoming.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are several methods to cut an involute gear, but I will focus on hobbing techniques, as a simple hob can be made with the most basic lathe. (see [[Hob]])&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The tools necessary for this process include:&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
1. A vertical milling machine (horizontal will probably work as well, but I will focus on vertical here)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
2. The appropriate gear-cutting [[Hob]] for the dimensions of the gear desired&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
3. An indexing head attachment for the milling machine [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Indexing_Head]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
4. A tailstock attachment for the same&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
5. A live center to mount in the tailstock and a dead center to mount in the indexing head&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
6. Appropriately sized round stock of a material no harder than the material of the hob&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
7. An engine or benchtop lathe and appropriate attachments&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
First, the gear blank needs to be cut.  In the case of making a set of identical gears for a hydraulic [[gear pump]], a single double-wide gear can be made and cut in half when finished. If the thickness of the gear is very important, then the swarf of the blade that will be used to cut the gear in half must be considered when cutting the length of stock needed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Before mounting in the lathe, a length of roundstock should be cut. This step does not require precision, so a hacksaw will do in a pinch. (A chop saw is preferable)  The piece should then be mounted in a 3-jaw chuck on the lathe if possible (that is, if the piece will fit in the 3-jaw chuck)  A four jaw chuck may be used, but extra care must be taken to ensure that the part is centered. now the end of the piece should be machined to a smooth finish and center-drilled to roughly 3/16&amp;quot; after removing the piece from the chuck, turn it around and repeat the process used on the first end. (If the stock is short enough, it can be cut down to the outer diameter of the gear desired while still mounted in the chuck the first time, but it is advisable to center-drill the piece to mark the center of the hole where the shaft will be mounted.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When ready to trim down to diameter, ensure that the lathe RPM and feed rate are set properly for the diameter you are cutting from (before the cut) and the material being used.  The rough formula for RPM is (CS x 4)/D where CS is the cutting speed which is specified for the work material and D is the diameter of the workpiece. The feed rate used will depend on the material being used, shop practice, and the desired finish of the cut.  Typical lathe feedrates used for carbon steel are .002-.005&amp;quot;/revolution.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Now the hole by which the gear will be mounted should be machined.  This step will involve first drilling then reaming the hole to produce a smooth, precision finish on the inside of the gear.  First, the appropriate drill bit for the reamer to be used will be mounted in the chuck on the tailstock.  Now the hole will be drilled past the width of the gear, leaving deadspace so that the reamer can ream the entire width of the gear. Next, the drill bit will be replaced with the reamer, and the hole will be reamed to size.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Now the chuck will be transferred to the milling machine and mounted in the rotary table or indexing head.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Involute_gear&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Hydraulic Motors]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Colin</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Involute_Gear&amp;diff=22395</id>
		<title>Involute Gear</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Involute_Gear&amp;diff=22395"/>
		<updated>2011-04-25T15:07:28Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Colin: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;This page is very much a work in progress-improvements are forthcoming.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are several methods to cut an involute gear, but I will focus on hobbing techniques, as a simple hob can be made with the most basic lathe. (see [[Hob]])&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The tools necessary for this process include:&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
1. A vertical milling machine (horizontal will probably work as well, but I will focus on vertical here)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
2. The appropriate gear-cutting [[Hob]] for the dimensions of the gear desired&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
3. An indexing head attachment for the milling machine [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Indexing_Head]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
4. A tailstock attachment for the same&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
5. A live center to mount in the tailstock and a dead center to mount in the indexing head&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
6. The stock machined slightly oversize (compared to tooth diameter-no more than 0.010-0.020&amp;quot; oversize is needed) on an engine or bench lathe.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Involute_gear&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Hydraulic Motors]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Colin</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Hob&amp;diff=22393</id>
		<title>Hob</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Hob&amp;diff=22393"/>
		<updated>2011-04-25T15:06:06Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Colin: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hobbing&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This article is intended to go with [[Involute Gear]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The process of cutting a gear calls for either an involute cutter or a gear hob. The advantage of a hob is that it can easily be cut from carbon steel on a lathe and milling machine.  Once cut, the hob is then heat treated (even mildly will suffice) so that it can more easily cut the gear material.  There are a few types of hobs, namely helical and what I will, for lack of machining experience, call a parallel hob. Out of simplicity, this article will focus on the so-called &#039;parallel hob&#039; as it can be used on a standard vertical mill and doesn&#039;t require a hobbing mill.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
(This page is a work in progress, improvements should be forthcoming)&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Colin</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Colin_Dodson&amp;diff=22388</id>
		<title>Colin Dodson</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Colin_Dodson&amp;diff=22388"/>
		<updated>2011-04-25T14:25:36Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Colin: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;=Team Culturing Information=&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
last updated: 22. April, 2011&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===&#039;&#039;&#039;WHO&#039;&#039;&#039; are you?===&lt;br /&gt;
*&#039;&#039;Name/Nationality/Ethnicity&#039;&#039; - Colin Dodson, United States&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*&#039;&#039;Location&#039;&#039; – Urbana, IL&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*&#039;&#039;Contact Information&#039;&#039; – &lt;br /&gt;
colin.dodson (at) gmail (dot) com&amp;lt;br/&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
+1(618)841-8849&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*&#039;&#039;Introductory Video&#039;&#039; - &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*&#039;&#039;Resume/CV&#039;&#039; – &lt;br /&gt;
2005-2008: Attended the Illinois Math and Science Academy (IMSA) in Aurora, IL. worked most summers with village workers in my hometown of Marissa, IL&amp;lt;br/&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
2008: Graduated from IMSA; Began study at University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign (UIUC)&amp;lt;br/&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
2009: Left University due to family medical circumstances&amp;lt;br/&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Summer 2010: began study at College of Dupage (COD) in Glen Ellyn, IL. Also began working as a student aide in Computer Support and Printing Services (CSPS) at the Library at COD.&amp;lt;br/&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Fall 2010-Spring 2011: Continued courses relevant to engineering major at COD, adding Welding and Machine Shop for personal interest. Continued work with CSPS.&amp;lt;br/&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br/&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[future]&amp;lt;br/&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
2011: Return to UIUC in the summer-intended major of Industrial Engineering. Will continue each semester until finished.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*&#039;&#039;Hobbies and Pastimes&#039;&#039; - Computers, technology, appropriate technology, occasional political debate/discussion, thoughtful reading, wishful inventing. (Lots of neat inventive ideas, not all of them realistic)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===&#039;&#039;&#039;WHY&#039;&#039;&#039; are you motivated to support/develop this work?===&lt;br /&gt;
*&#039;&#039;Do you endorse open source culture?&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
Absolutely. I found the OSE project when looking for &#039;open source hardware.&#039;  At one time, though, I was almost fanatically free software-centric. Since then, I have matured, and have recognized open source organizations for their fundamental value.  To me, open source is a step beyond transparency, and it is a goal toward which we should strive if we want an effective and genuine democratic society.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*&#039;&#039;Why are you interested in this work?&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
I see OSE has made tremendous progress doing something modern &#039;conventional&#039; wisdom might say is impossible, and I see more great successes coming in the future.  As well, this project appears to aim for a structure not unlike a &#039;dream&#039; city concept I&#039;ve been obsessed with since high school.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*&#039;&#039;Are you interested in teaching about the GVCS?&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
Very much so, but I am not certain of my ability to teach effectively about it. The concept is brilliant, and more people should be taught about it, so even if I am unsure of my ability, I would be perfectly willing to try.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Are you interested in economic relocalization possibilities arising from the GVCS?&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
Centering economic structures within the communities they serve is central and beneficial in too many ways to count. Resiliency of smaller scale operations, minimization of logistic costs, maximum capacity for responsible use of local resources--the list goes on and on.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*&#039;&#039;Do you want to use the GVCS technologies yourself? Do you want to build them yourself?&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
I would love to build the technologies listed, and I would love even more to build them with other GVCS technologies.  The so-called &#039;dwarf-principle&#039; has fascinated me for several years. (the dwarf-principle is the idea that technology builds on itself-or evolution of technology)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*&#039;&#039;Are you interested in starting up enterprise using the GVCS technologies?&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
Eventually yes, but I am more interested in using the open source economic model to put enterprise into the hands of the masses. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*&#039;&#039;Are you interested in having the GVCS technologies fabricated by your local custom fabricator?&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*&#039;&#039;Are you interested in applying the GVCS to third world development? To redevelopment of crisis areas? To development of derelict areas in the developed world?&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
Definitely. Some of the most torn regions on Earth are the most fertile for development; and using a distributed and open sourced model provides the greatest involvement to the people of the region. I believe open source development methods have the capacity to turn a would-be economic occupancy into a welcome opportunity for the local population while providing the necessities of life.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*&#039;&#039;Are you interested in starting up Industry 2.0 flexible fabrication enterprises for your local community,  by drawing from a global repository of freely down-loadable designs and fabricating using open source fabrication equipment?&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
Very much so-the community level is probably the best place to establish manufacturing and enterprise in a distributed economy, and what better way is there to become involved in your community?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*&#039;&#039;Are you interested in the potential of the GVCS for developing local food systems?&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
Food production, even more than manufacturing, has the greatest potential benefit and effectiveness at a local level. This benefit applies as much to the land as it does to the communities these systems would serve.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*&#039;&#039;Are you interested in doing academic studies/papers, publishing books, or doing other analysis of our efforts?&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
This is a possibility I hadn&#039;t yet considered-it sounds like it could be worthwhile. I am honestly more interested in direct involvement, but I see the tremendous value in the documentation and peer-review that academic study would provide.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Are you interested in financial investment opportunities arising from our work?&lt;br /&gt;
If I had the resources to invest, yes.  I would certainly invest whatever I could to bring this project to even greater fruition.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*&#039;&#039;Are you interested in the distributive economic aspects of our work, and if so, how do you see this playing out?&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
I think I&#039;ve already talked about this a lot, but I see the capacity for undermining many of the detrimental qualities of our current mass-manufacture model such as planned obsolescence and rigid design.  With a distributed system, each tool or system can be tailored to its life-long purpose, performing each task that a tool must as effectively as possible.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*&#039;&#039;Are you interested in building renewable energy production facilities based on open hardware (solar concentrator electric, wind, biomass power).&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
How many times can I say yes? I am particularly interested in solar thermal and biomass gasification and/or pyrolysis.  Conceptually, wind turbines are a good renewable source of power, but technologically, biomass and solar-thermal are more interesting systems.  Actually, I have a concept that I&#039;d like to try to develop for a mobile gasification mechanism.  I know this isn&#039;t critical, but I would appreciate the chance to discuss it with people knowledgeable in gasification (particularly plasma-based) systems.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*&#039;&#039;Are you interested in building resilient communities based on access to the GVCS?&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
Yes, yes, and yes.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*&#039;&#039;Are you interested in creating a bug-out hut using GVCS technologies?&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
Until filling this form, I wasn&#039;t familiar with the term.  I&#039;m still not quite sure what it means.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*&#039;&#039;How do you think that the GVCS can help alleviate the instabilities of global monetary systems?&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
Much the same way that a biological body responds to disease or injury-if many parts act autonomously, but in communication with the other parts, the system as a whole becomes more resilient. This won&#039;t necessarily alleviate the short-term instabilities of any global economic system, but the system itself will begin to trend toward greater resiliency and long-term dynamic stability.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*&#039;&#039;How do you think that the GVCS can address issues related to resource conflicts?&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
I see two mechanisms involved, both related to scarcity as a source of conflict: &amp;lt;br/&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
1.) Alleviation of scarcity economics.  All the necessary resources for survival and civilization are relatively abundant. Today, &#039;scarcity&#039; is largely artificial.&amp;lt;br/&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
2.) alleviation of scarcity itself.  In a consumer-based mass-market economy, the economic solution to poverty, war, and overpopulation falls short because we fail to distinguish between necessities and desires, as the market makes no effort to do so either. By producing on a smaller scale in a distributed fashion, the people become responsible for their own subsistence, becoming producer-consumers and learn to distinguish between needs and wants, so that the necessities can be provided for all before providing for desires. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*&#039;&#039;How do you think that the GVCS can address issues of overpopulation?&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
Overpopulation, as studies show, is linked directly to poverty. All other factors aside, in an impoverished state, mindsets likely return to a subsistence mode, and in a subsistence economy, children are effectively worth.  If the capacity for self-sufficiency can be established, and there is no longer a fight for subsistence, opportunity will grow, and it is likely, though not &#039;proven&#039; that population should stabilize.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*&#039;&#039;How do you think that the GVCS can address issues of resource depletion and environmental degradation?&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
In a distributed system, each actor becomes relatively small.  Being that each unit is so small, the force it can exert on its environment is also relatively small, and likely within nature&#039;s capacity for restoration.  This is compared to large industry, which blindly exerts a massive force based on limited information, causing more damage to its environment faster than nature can recover.  In this sense, one community may utterly destroy its ecology, but the damage done is much smaller, and the environment is much more likely to recover on a shorter timespan.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*&#039;&#039;Other comments&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
The more I try to put OSE into context, the more sense it makes.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===&#039;&#039;&#039;WHAT&#039;&#039;&#039;===&lt;br /&gt;
*&#039;&#039;What have you already contributed to the OSE project? (technical contributions, blogging about us, financial support, organizing events, translations, interviews, video editing, publications, publicity work, behind-the-scenes work, CAD work, wiki contributions, computer support, etc)&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
Nothing yet, but I would love to start.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Communications&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
*About the only &#039;reaching&#039; communications I&#039;m involved in are on Facebook and anonymous web-forums, but if I had a closer relationship with the project, I would definitely document my experience for the world to see.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Organizational&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
*Not particularly&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Computer Support&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
*I am familiar with linux, and use it daily.  I only know enough code to roughly read an existing program, but given some instruction and projects, I could definitely learn.  I know plenty of html, and a little bit of the structure of PHP, but not enough to do anything useful.  Again, I could definitely learn how to administrate web services, but I do not have any experience yet.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Finances&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
*No.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Sociology&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
*If I knew how to, sure.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Home Economics&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
*I roughly know my way around a kitchen and I can handle just about any utensil.  If I have a recipe or a little guidance, my cooking usually turns out well. (but it never looks like the photos)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Design&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
*Not yet, but I&#039;ll surely have to learn in the course of my studies at University.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Building&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
*I can lay quality beads using Oxy-Acetylene, TIG, Stick, and can learn MIG. I know the basic operations of an engine lathe and vertical milling machine, and if I had access to the equipment, I have a decent idea (principly) of how to machine gears and other such parts.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Electronics and Magnetics&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
*I&#039;ve taken university level calculus based Physics focused on electricity and magnetism.  I&#039;m a bit rusty, but given a text-book, I could calculate just about anything about an electric or magnetic field.  I&#039;m reasonably skilled with a soldering iron, and started building circuits when I was around 12 years old.  Within the next year or so, I will likely have taken an electrical engineering course, and should have the knowledge and some practice in designing most of the items listed in this question.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Automation&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
*I am highly interested in this area, but I do not have any real experience. I should know the design side of the circuitry after taking the EE courses listed in the previous answer.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Metallurgy&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
*No, but I definitely want to.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Engineering&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
*No, but I hope to be.  I will be majoring in Industrial Engineering at the University of Illinois.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===&#039;&#039;&#039;HOW&#039;&#039;&#039; can you help?&#039;&#039;===&lt;br /&gt;
*&#039;&#039;How are you interested in contributing to the work of GVCS development?&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
I would like to help design systems and tools suited to distributed economic models, automation, and help fabricate the same.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*&#039;&#039;Can you volunteer to work with us, and if so, how many hours per week?&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
I would love to volunteer, but I will only be available for a few weeks a time and possibly summers (not including 2011) until I graduate from the University of Illinois (likely after two more years of study).  This year, I should be available near the end of July to the middle of August, and possibly all of the following summer.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*&#039;&#039;Are you interested in working with us for pay? If so, what services can you offer, and what is your hourly or per-project rate?&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
If possible, yes. However, I am not yet a professional in any particular field. I would be happy to volunteer my help, but some pay would help pay a few expenses and possibly offset college costs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*&#039;&#039;Are you interested in purchasing equipment from us to help bootstrap development?&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
If I had the resources, I would probably consider starting a venture and purchasing equipment from Factor e Farm.  As it stands, I feel I would much more likely help build said equipment.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*&#039;&#039;Are you interested in bidding for consulting/design/prototyping work?&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
Not at this time.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*&#039;&#039;Are you a [http://openfarmtech.org/index.php?title=True_Fans True Fan]? If not, why not?&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
No, but I am considering it. My finances are quite limited, and I do not feel I can make too many financial commitments yet. At this time, I am, you might say, a professional student.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*&#039;&#039;Would you like to see yourself working with us on a full-time basis?&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
I would definitely like to work full time with OSE following my graduation.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*&#039;&#039;Are you interested in using the technologies that we are developing directly?&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
Absolutely. I am most interested in using the manufacturing technologies soon to be developed at Factor e Farm for personal prototyping and potential small-scale production purposes.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*&#039;&#039;Are you interested in being part of the world&#039;s first, open source, resilient community? The GVCS is the preparatory step for the OSE Village Experiment – a 2 year, immersion experiment (2013-2014) for testing whether a real, thriving, modern-day prototype community of 200 people can be built on 200 acres using local resources and open access to information? We are looking for approximately 200 people to fill a diverse array of roles, according to the Social Contract that is being developed. This may be the boldest social experiment on earth - a pioneering community whose goal is to extend the index of possibilities regarding harmonious existence of humans, ecology, and technology – as a beacon of light to benefit of all people on Earth.&lt;br /&gt;
This sounds like an opportunity of a lifetime. I&#039;ve always fantasized about starting a new village for just these reasons.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Team Culturing]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Colin</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Hob&amp;diff=22239</id>
		<title>Hob</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Hob&amp;diff=22239"/>
		<updated>2011-04-23T18:32:19Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Colin: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hobbing&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Colin</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Hob&amp;diff=22237</id>
		<title>Hob</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Hob&amp;diff=22237"/>
		<updated>2011-04-23T18:30:46Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Colin: Created page with &amp;quot;see [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hobbing]&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;see [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hobbing]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Colin</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Involute_Gear&amp;diff=22236</id>
		<title>Involute Gear</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Involute_Gear&amp;diff=22236"/>
		<updated>2011-04-23T18:29:35Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Colin: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;This page is very much a work in progress-improvements are forthcoming.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are several methods to cut an involute gear, but I will focus on hobbing techniques, as a simple hob can be made with the most basic lathe. (see [[Hob]])&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The tools necessary for this process include:&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
1. A vertical milling machine (horizontal will probably work as well, but I will focus on vertical here)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
2. The appropriate gear-cutting hob for the dimensions of the gear desired&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
3. An indexing head attachment for the milling machine&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
4. A tailstock attachment for the same&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
5. A live center to mount in the tailstock and a dead center to mount in the indexing head&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
6. The stock machined slightly oversize (compared to tooth diameter-no more than 0.010-0.020&amp;quot; oversize is needed) on an engine or bench lathe.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Involute_gear&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Hydraulic Motors]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Colin</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Involute_Gear&amp;diff=22234</id>
		<title>Involute Gear</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Involute_Gear&amp;diff=22234"/>
		<updated>2011-04-23T18:29:03Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Colin: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;This page is very much a work in progress-improvements are forthcoming.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are several methods to cut an involute gear, but I will focus on hobbing techniques, as a simple hob can be made with the most basic lathe. (see [[Hob]])&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The tools necessary for this process include:&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
1. A vertical milling machine (horizontal will probably work as well, but I will focus on vertical here)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
2. The appropriate gear-cutting hob for the dimensions of the gear desired&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
3. An indexing head attachment for the milling machine&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
4. A tailstock attachment for the same&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
5. A live center to mount in the tailstock and a dead center to mount in the indexing head&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
6. The stock machined slightly oversize (compared to tooth diameter) diameter-no more than 0.010-0.020&amp;quot; oversize is needed) on an engine or bench lathe.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Involute_gear&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Hydraulic Motors]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Colin</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Involute_Gear&amp;diff=22233</id>
		<title>Involute Gear</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/index.php?title=Involute_Gear&amp;diff=22233"/>
		<updated>2011-04-23T18:25:34Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Colin: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;This page is very much a work in progress-improvements are forthcoming.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are several methods to cut an involute gear, but I will focus on hobbing techniques, as a simple hob can be made with the most basic lathe. (see [[Hob]])&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The tools necessary for this process include:&lt;br /&gt;
1. A vertical milling machine (horizontal will probably work as well, but I will focus on vertical here)&lt;br /&gt;
2. The appropriate gear-cutting hob for the dimensions of the gear desired&lt;br /&gt;
3. An indexing head attachment for the milling machine&lt;br /&gt;
4. A tailstock attachment for the same&lt;br /&gt;
5. A live center to mount in the tailstock and a dead center to mount in the indexing head&lt;br /&gt;
6. The stock machined slightly oversize (compared to tooth diameter) diameter-no more than 0.010-0.020&amp;quot; oversize is needed) on an engine or bench lathe.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Involute_gear&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Hydraulic Motors]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Colin</name></author>
	</entry>
</feed>