Open Source Ecology - User contributions [en]

Hab Lab

2011-10-18T19:11:08Z

DavidIAm: /* CEB Columns */

The need for all-weather housing to shelter year-round members of the community, located where summers can be unpleasantly hot and winters unpleasantly cold, can be met with superinsulated designs. Here we will examine some possible options and our progress in bring them into existence. Planning tools, instructions, modifications, etc. will be included.

The [[Hab Lab Design Gallery|Design Page]] is a good place to see what has been offered and to post any of your own great ideas. More ideas are great for everybody!

==Survey & Design==
The area on the property for the first group habitation was on a noticeable slope. OSE staff members worked with a home-made water level to take measurements over a 100' square area.

How to make a water level: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nAcT_1T25LM

Ideas submitted for this project are located on the [[Hab Lab Design Gallery]] page.

===Building Orientation===
Oops!
Some of our pads got set 3' South of their intended site. Here is an emergency redesign idea.
[[File:Emergency Remodel HabLab.png|thumb|800px|center]]

==Planning==
There is a lot of planning that goes into building something like this. Here is a FreeMind mind map on that. It will be updated as we do more of it. The green nodes designate things we have completed - and therefore can 'go' forward with.
[[File:HabLab Planning.png|thumb|800px|center]]
The nodes with arrows indicate those that have been created as separate mind maps. Their details will be found in the subsection to which they pertain.

===Kitchen/Bath Water===
A plan for gray water drains - includes a floor drain in the kitchen and the bathroom, 2 showers, a sink, and a laundry location in the bathroom, and a sink location in the kitchen.
[[File:Gray Water Drains.png|thumb|600px|center]]

===Utility/Storage Area===

===Heating===
[[Space_Heating]]
====Source Material====
http://dnr.mo.gov/pubs/pub781.pdf

==Site Preparation==

The Hab Lab is designed to be supported by columns built of CEB (Compressed Earth Block)which are constructed on a reinforced concrete pad. Due to the slope of our site, we designed a lowered section which requires a low retaining wall. Included here are instructions for preparing the site with adequate footings.

Here is a picture with a preliminary excavation layout for the column pad sites and the retaining wall in the Hab Lab.
*When you are laying out the excavation site, be sure to add 5' in each direction for the excavator to work to.

[[File:HabLab Excavation Layout.png|thumb|800 px|center]]
This levels diagram is from our theoretical measurements - we actually wound up with a 2' drop, not a 2'8" drop. That will make only a minor difference in raising the building - changing the size of the retaining wall and removing one or two CEB's at the top of the lower columns to maintain the planned roof pitch.
[[File:Levels Diagram for Hab Lab Site.png|thumb|800 px|center]]

==Foundations & Column Slabs==
[[File:Column Pad Form Prep.png|thumb|800px|center]]
[[File:Column Pads Completed.png|thumb|800px|center]]

===Laying out the Hab Lab excavation site to be square===
''Collect equipment and supplies needed''
*Blueprint of site plan
*(2) 100’ Measuring tapes
*4 3-4’ stakes
*Hammer
*Bright spray paint
''Steps for Staking out the excavation site.''
#Choose a spot approximately 5 feet to the North and 5 feet to the West of the area to be excavated.
#Pound in a stake and spray paint the top foot or two of it.
#Measure due East a distance 10’ longer than the foundation width (total 67’).
#Place and paint another stake.
#Calculate a distance 10’ longer than the foundation length (total 62’).
#Calculate the diagonal measurement of the excavation site [Length(squared) x Width(squared) = Diagonal(squared)] (91'4").
#Measure due South from the Northwest stake the distance calculated in step 6.
#Set the second tape measure on the Northeast stake and measure the diagonal calculated in step 7 going Southwest.
#Set your third stake where the two measured lengths meet each other.
#Paint the stake.
#Measure due South from the Northeast stake the distance calculated in step 6.
#Set the second tape measure on the Northwest stake and measure the diagonal calculated in step 7 going Southeast.
#Set your fouth stake where the two measured lengths meet each other.
#Paint the stake.

*With the site leveled, the foundation holes for the column slabs must be laid out.
*After excavation, the stone fill for the foundation goes into the holes.
*At the same time, the 6" stone floor foundation is spread.

===Concrete forms and rebar reinforcing assemblies===
These can be built well ahead of need whenever volunteers are available.
*You could set up an assembly line effect to do them all at once with several people working together.
*An individual might do one unit at a time.
*An individual might do all the wood cutting at one time, another do all the rebar cutting at another time, another do all the rebar bending at another time.
*A couple of people might work together to get some wooden forms assembled once the pieces are cut, another time, a couple of people might work together to get some rebar assemblies welded.

The following step-by-step instructions are provided for building the forms and the reinforcing rebar assemblies.

[[How to bend rebar]]

[[https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=14oCxZUjs09wGuvaL4QTAII6hRxQpy20TKv7skH3INRWAVlXqtgdrh0D2ggtl&hl=en Assembly sheet for column pad forms]]

[[https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=1_hf2n-l9rCiEss45ZC8ogtMpeQki9fCoYIFdkD5x3lCOwjGh7Gknr-POJrNB&hl=en Rebar plan for column footings]]

===Laying out the locations for the forms on top of the foundation stone===
Once the form and rebar assemblies are built and the foundation stone is in place, the string site plan lay-out must be set up for placing the forms properly over their (now invisible) foundations. If you set your hole locating strings far enough out that the excavation didn't disturb them, this will be simple. It will be even easier if you rolled up your strings before the hole excavation got done and saved them. (See comments below!)

''Collect equipment and supplies needed''
*Blueprint of site plan
*100' tape measure
*Pre-placed marking stakes around outside of foundation site.
*Rolled up pre-used string balls from foundation hole layout
''Steps for Laying out Column Pad Form locations.''
#Measure to check that all pre-placed marking stakes are properly positioned.
#If any are missing or misplaced, replace or reposition them as needed.
#Unroll and retie the strings to their corresponding stakes across the foundation site .

Here's what the layout over the stone should look like.
[[File:HabLab Column Pad Form Layout.png|thumb|600 px|center]]

-Note-
We had a great plan for this - we would set our stakes out first to mark the hole edges at 4'x4', save the strings and move the stakes in by 6" to 3'x3' for the setting the pad forms.

However, when we tried it in real life - Well...
*We lost a lot of our stakes during the excavation.
*We found the holes tended to come out bigger than we had intended them to be.
*And once the stone was laid over the site, we couldn't see where the foundation holes were located!
We wound up remeasuring and resetting most of the stakes for laying out the pad site grid.
*We dug stone out of two of corners to find the edges of the foundation holes.
*We remeasured and reset corner marking stakes inside those edges.
*We retriangulated with the diagonals to assure the foundation square.
*And we remeasured and reset stakes along all the edges.

So we've rewritten the foundation lay-out plans as they are currently posted. In the current version, we set the stakes at the 3'x3' points to start with so they don't need to be moved. We also emphasized setting them firmly - and safely outside the excavation area.

-Later Note-
More sad experience - gained while setting the floor and wall forms and found our firmly set concrete East column pads were sitting 3' further South than they should have been!

What happened -
*The outlining strings for the site were set properly and square - good.
*However, while doing all of the fixing above, we got tired and thought up a short cut. We were short on stakes and we needed to mark both the hablab and the workshop sites for form placement (our 40 forms would require us to locate and put in some 40 stakes) We could place our forms easily enough in line with the strings with only one corner marked couldn't we? (That would require placing half as many stakes!)
*We started at the NorthWest corner and measured 16' East along the North line and staked that for a line. Then another 16' East we set another stake.
*Then we went back and did the same from the NorthWest corner to the South. - and from the SouthWest corner to the East.
*Finally we went down to the lower level and marked the East line of the site ''starting at the South end of the line''. - And we ran our strings.
*Later, we were tired and losing daylight when we set the forms in place along the lines on the Hab Lab site.
I suppose this short cut could have worked if we had checked more carfully:
*Rechecking the placement measurements is an obvious one.
*Standing back and looking for parallel lines is another obvious one.
*Looking for a cause when it was difficult to align the squarely built pads with the crossed strings would have been another solution.

So this is the layout we are actually working with now!
[[File:Oops HabLab Column Pad Form Layout.png|thumb|600px|center]]

We decided that an emergency floor plan change we came up with should compensate for this without having to redo most of the column pads. As we run into more complications, we'll post on them!

===Setting the column pad forms===
''Collect equipment and supplies needed''
*Supplies
**16 Pre-built column pad forms
**80 form stakes (we used 2"x2"x18" wooden stakes)
*Equipment
**Heavy Hammer(s)
**4'spirit Level
**Water level
**tape measure
''Steps to place Column Pad forms''
#Use with the center pad site on the upper level as the reference pad.
#Set a pre-built column pad form in place under the string lines with the inside of the forms under the strings.
#Drive two form stakes next to the outside of one side and one on each of the other three sides. They will need to sit deep enough that the tops of the stakes will be level with (or lower than) the top of the form.
#Level the form.
##Screw one of the stakes (on the side with two) to the side of the form so that the form sits 1/2" above the gravel level. Be sure that the top of the stake is level with (or lower than) the top of the form.
##Use the spirit level to set this side of the form level and screw it in position.
##Use the spirit level to set the opposite side of the form at the same level.
##Check the level on the other two sides and screw them in place.
#Use the water level to set the first level on each of the other pads on the upper level.
#Repeat the remainder of the leveling steps for each form.
#Use the water level to set the level of the center form in the lower level at 24" lower than the upper level pads.
#Complete the leveling steps for this form.
#Use the center form on the lower level for a reference form to set and level the remaining lower level column pad forms.

[[File:Setting Column Pad Forms Diagram.png|thumb|600 px|center]]

===Preparing Column Pad Forms for Reinforced Concrete===
Collect equipment and supplies needed
*Supplies
**16 Pre-built column pad rebar assemblies
**64 rebar chairs
*Equipment
**Rake(s)
**shovel
**tape measure
#Use a rake and shovel to remove about 2" of stone from the inside of the form. (until is 6" deep)
#Pack removed stone around outside of forms to create a fully enclosed 6" deep form.
#Use one prebuilt column pad rebar assembly for each column pad site.
#Center the rebar assembly with 3” gap between assembly and form wall on every side.
#Set rebar chairs under corners of prebuilt column pad rebar assemblies.-Put a stone or some gravel under the chairs if needed to center the rebar so it will sit at about the middle of the finished slab (3" off the floor of the form).

[[File:Preparing Column Pad Sites for Concrete Pouring.png|thumb|600 px|center]]

==Concrete Work==
We are preparing to do the big concrete pour. Using the FreeMind mind map model, this is the node that outlines the dependencies so we can be ready for that. Following sections include instructions for accomplishing them.
[[File:Dependencies for Getting Floors Poured.png|thumb|800px|center]]
Here is the mindmap updated after the all the concrete was poured.
[[File:Concrete Floors Poured.png|thumb|800px|center]]

Here is the planning layout for the concrete - which we are planning to do in one great big pour. We'll let you know how it goes!
[[File:HabLab Concrete Forms Layout.png|800px|center]]

===Insulated Outside Wall Support Slabs===
We are planning to put reinforced concrete the full 3' width of the Column Support Pads all the way around the outside of the building. They will be 3-1/2" (2x4 lumber size) deep and will support the two CEB walls that enclose the hay bale insulation. Rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.

====Preparing the rebar reinforcement assemblies====
[[How to bend rebar]]

Rebar Assembly for 13’ Outside Wall pads (make 11 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’6” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 6’4” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 12’6” by 2’6” dimensions.
#Measure and cut (1) 20’ piece of #4 rebar to 12’7” in length.
#Center the 12’7” piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld it into place.
[[File:Rebar for outside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

Rebar Assembly for 9’6” Outside Wall pads (make 2 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 4’7” from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’6” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 4’7” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 9’ by 2’6” dimensions.
#Measure and cut (1) 20’ piece of #4 rebar to 9’1” in length.
#Center the 9’1” piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld it into place.
[[File:Rebar for 9.5' outside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

Rebar Assembly for 7' Outside Wall pads (make 2 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 3’4” from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’6” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 3’4” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 6’6” by 2’6” dimensions.
#Measure and cut (1) 20’ piece of #4 rebar to 6'7" in length.
#Center the 6'7" piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld it into place.
[[File:Rebar for 7' outside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

====Preparing the concrete forms====
Our pouring plan requires these forms relating to the outside wall construction. For those wall pads that are part of our interior pads, additional forms are in other sections. If you are not pouring large interior pads, you will need to adjust the number of interior forms.

Exterior Forms for 13' Wall slabs. (make 10 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(2) 2"x4"x7' pine studs
*(1) piece of scrap lumber,
*(4) 3" screws
*Driver
''Steps to do:''
#Start two screws into the flat side of each end of the piece of scrap lumber.
#Butt the two 7' boards end to end
#Lay the piece of scrap lumber over the seam butt joint.
#Be sure the narrow sides of the boards are lined up evenly with each other.
#Drive the screws in completely to hold the boards in line.

Interior Forms for 13' Wall slabs. (make 5 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(2) 2"x4"x7' pine studs
*Measuring tape
*Pencil
*Saw
*(4) 3" screws
*Driver
''Steps to do:''
#Measure, mark, and cut one board to be 6' long.
#Start two screws into the flat side of each end of the 1' piece of scrap lumber.
#Butt the 6' piece with the other 7' board end to end
#Lay the piece of scrap lumber over the seam butt joint.
#Be sure the narrow sides of the boards are lined up evenly with each other.
#Drive the screws in completely to hold the boards in line.

Forms for Wall slabs on split-level section

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(6) 2"x4"x7' pine studs
*(4) 2"x4"x10' pine studs
*Measuring tape
*Pencil
*Saw
''Steps to do:''
#Measure, mark, and cut (2) 7' boards to be 6' long.
#Measure, mark, and cut (2) 10' boards to be 9'6" long.
#You will use the other boards uncut.

[[File:Exterior Wall Form Boards.png|thumb|600px|center]]

====Setting the forms====

===Narrow Wall Support Slabs===
We will support and stabilize the interior CEB walls with a 12" wide x 3-1/2" deep concrete slab. Rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.

====Preparing Rebar reinforcement assemblies====
Rebar Assembly for all 12” interior wall slabs

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(10) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 3’4” from one end.
#Bend 180⁰ the rebar with a 3” radius.
#Measure and mark so another 180⁰ with a 3” radius will produce 6’6” long assemblies.
#Cut the extra rebar (about 7’) off, leaving enough to tack weld each assembly together.

#Measure and mark (4) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 4’4” from the end.
#Bend 180⁰ with a 3” radius.
#Measure and mark so another 180⁰ with a 3” radius will produce 8’6” long assemblies.
#Cut the extra rebar off, leaving enough to tack weld each assembly together.

#Measure and mark (4) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” from the end.
#Bend 180⁰ with a 3” radius.
#Measure and mark so another 180⁰ with a 3” radius will produce 12’6” long assemblies.
#Use scrap cuttings (about 7’ long) to bridge the gap for each of these assemblies.
[[File:Rebar for 1' inside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

====Preparing the Concrete Forms====
These 12" wide slabs will provide a firm foundation on which to build our interior CEB room-dividing walls. Mostly they use the same sizes of forms you used for the outside walls. If you are pouring in small stages, you won't have build more forms because you can reuse the ones from the outside wall slabs. If you are going to pour all the concrete at once, you will need 7 more of the 13' inside form assemblies, 4 more uncut 7' boards, 2 more 7' boards cut to 6' lengths, 6 more boards cut to 9'6", and two boards cut to 9' in length.
Instructions for preparing all of these boards are found above - in the [[#Insulated Outside Wall Support Slabs/Preparing the Concrete Forms|Outside Wall Slabs]] section.

====Setting the Forms====

===Kitchen and Bath Areas===
The Kitchen and Bath Floor Areas both have a potential for receiving noticeable amounts of water. We consider it advisable to pave them both with concrete and include a central drain. Rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.
====Preparing the Rebar Assemblies====
Rebar Assembly for 16’x13’ slabs (make 2 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (4) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” from the end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Cut the long ends to 7’10” long.
#Overlap the short ends of two L-shaped pieces and measure to make a U shaped assembly with 12’6” between the legs.
#Make two of these assemblies.
#Overlap the legs of the U-shaped assemblies to make a rectangle measuring 15’6” x 12’6”
#Measure and cut (5) pieces of #4 rebar to 15’7” long.
#Measure and cut (7) pieces of #4 rebar to 12’7” long.
#Space and position the cut pieces into a 24” grid across the rectangle.
[[File:Rebar for between big slabs.png|thumb|600px|center]]

#Weld them into place.
[[File:Rebar for 16x13 slab.png|thumb|600px|center]]

There is one more assembly to go into this section between the two big ones. It is a modification of the exterior wall slab reinforcements.

Rebar Assembly for Interior 13’x3’ section of big Slab

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(2) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” #from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’ between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 6’4” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 12’6” by 2’ dimensions.

====Preparing the Concrete forms====
Because we are pouring this all at once, we decided to eliminate some complicated form work by including the equipment area and one room in this slab. This will be a big pour of concrete. It requires about 5 cubic yards of concrete. If you have plenty of time and are working in small batches, you can save over a yard of concrete by building the interior wall forms and pouring only wall-support pads - as shown on the layout.

The large slabs are laid between column pads, using 13' interior form assemblies. If you are pouring all at once, you will need two more of these assemblies, one more board cut to 9'6", and a piece of scrap about 3' long to complete the form work for this area. This, of course, assumes that you already have the exterior forms for the exterior wall slabs prepared. Instructions for preparing all of these are above in the [[#Insulated Outside Wall Support Slabs/Preparing the Concrete Forms|Outside Wall Slabs]]
section.
====Setting the Forms====

===Retaining Wall for Lower Level===
Ideas for this wall have been through several iterations. At present (Oct. 10th), we are planning to lay a 6" footer, 18" wide and 62' long. On top of that, we plan to put a 12" thick wall of bitumen-protected CEB. For the concrete footer, rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.
====Preparing the Rebar Assembly====
Rebar Assembly for Retaining wall footer

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(9) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Scrap #4 rebar to make (1) 6’ pieces and (1) 1’1” piece
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 8’ from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 12” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut (1) 6’ and (1) 1’1” piece of #4 rebar.
#Overlap and weld (1) 20’ length of rebar to each leg.
#Measure and weld the two longer legs together so the resulting assembly is 61’6” long.
#Weld the 6’ piece of rebar between the ends of the two shorter legs so that side is 61’6” long, too.
#Weld (3) 20’ pieces of #4 rebar into an approximately 60’ length of rebar.
#Center the 60’ piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld one end at the center of one end of the rectangle.
#Position the 1’1” piece of rebar across the rectangle to support the free end of the 60’ assembly.
#Weld the short piece to the three long ones.
[[File:Rebar Assembly for Retaining wall.png|thumb|600px|center]]
====Preparing the Concrete Form====
This is a really long form - 62 feet. You don't want to put it together ahead of time and try to carry it anywhere! What you ''do'' want to do is make sure you have all the pieces you will need cut and reserved against the time you will be setting the forms up.

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(8) 2"x6"x16' boards
*(6) Pieces of 2x4 or 2x6 scrap for splicing.
*Measuring tape
*Pencil
*Saw
''Steps to do''
#Measure and mark 18" from the end of (2) 2x6x16' boards
#Cut the two 18" pieces and mark them "form ends".
#Set aside the 6 16' boards, the 14'6" boards, the form ends, and all the scrap pieces in a reserve pile.

====Setting the Concrete Form====

==CEB Columns==

[[http://ww2.unhabitat.org/programmes/housingpolicy/Images/PDF.gif|UN CEB PDF]]

[[File:Hab_Lab_Coursework_Columns.png|thumb|400px|Center]]

==CEB Arches==

[[http://ww2.unhabitat.org/programmes/housingpolicy/documents/Vault.pdf|UN Vaults PDF]]

[[http://www.amazon.com/Concrete-Hardness-Hammer-HT-225A-Portable/dp/B0049DDJCK/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1317915942&sr=8-6|Hardness Test Hammer]] for quality assurance

==CEB Floors==

[[http://www.velacreations.com/cebfloors.html|CEB Floor Instructions]]

==CEB Walls==

[[File:Hab_Lab_Coursework_Interior_Walls.png|thumb|800px|center]]

==CEB Retaining Wall==

[[File:Hab_Lab_Coursework_Retaining_Wall.png|thumb|800px|center]]

==Insulated Roof==

# 16 11-member 2x6x16' frames
# a layer of tyvek
# a layer of lathe, mounted diagonally about 18" apart
# a layer of hay bales surrounded and around 2x12 spacers
# 16 11-member 2x4x16' frames
# agricultural roof panel on top and sides

Frames are built with one 16' beam on each end of 9 other 16' beams laid on 24" centers. These roof frames can be built quite quickly at any time labor is available, preferably ahead of time so that they can be installed as soon as the columns are ready to be covered.

==Super Insulated Walls==

2.5 foot thick wall.

4x6x12 bricks laid on the 12x4" side in standard wall layup, two walls outside surfaces 2.5' apart.

With air space left on either side, bales are stacked in the center of the wall, creating super insulation between the interior and exterior.

==Heating the HabLab==

I propose a [[http://www.heatkit.com Heatkit]] masonry furnace kit, surrounded by CEB

Hab Lab

2011-10-18T19:10:22Z

DavidIAm: /* CEB Floors */

The need for all-weather housing to shelter year-round members of the community, located where summers can be unpleasantly hot and winters unpleasantly cold, can be met with superinsulated designs. Here we will examine some possible options and our progress in bring them into existence. Planning tools, instructions, modifications, etc. will be included.

The [[Hab Lab Design Gallery|Design Page]] is a good place to see what has been offered and to post any of your own great ideas. More ideas are great for everybody!

==Survey & Design==
The area on the property for the first group habitation was on a noticeable slope. OSE staff members worked with a home-made water level to take measurements over a 100' square area.

How to make a water level: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nAcT_1T25LM

Ideas submitted for this project are located on the [[Hab Lab Design Gallery]] page.

===Building Orientation===
Oops!
Some of our pads got set 3' South of their intended site. Here is an emergency redesign idea.
[[File:Emergency Remodel HabLab.png|thumb|800px|center]]

==Planning==
There is a lot of planning that goes into building something like this. Here is a FreeMind mind map on that. It will be updated as we do more of it. The green nodes designate things we have completed - and therefore can 'go' forward with.
[[File:HabLab Planning.png|thumb|800px|center]]
The nodes with arrows indicate those that have been created as separate mind maps. Their details will be found in the subsection to which they pertain.

===Kitchen/Bath Water===
A plan for gray water drains - includes a floor drain in the kitchen and the bathroom, 2 showers, a sink, and a laundry location in the bathroom, and a sink location in the kitchen.
[[File:Gray Water Drains.png|thumb|600px|center]]

===Utility/Storage Area===

===Heating===
[[Space_Heating]]
====Source Material====
http://dnr.mo.gov/pubs/pub781.pdf

==Site Preparation==

The Hab Lab is designed to be supported by columns built of CEB (Compressed Earth Block)which are constructed on a reinforced concrete pad. Due to the slope of our site, we designed a lowered section which requires a low retaining wall. Included here are instructions for preparing the site with adequate footings.

Here is a picture with a preliminary excavation layout for the column pad sites and the retaining wall in the Hab Lab.
*When you are laying out the excavation site, be sure to add 5' in each direction for the excavator to work to.

[[File:HabLab Excavation Layout.png|thumb|800 px|center]]
This levels diagram is from our theoretical measurements - we actually wound up with a 2' drop, not a 2'8" drop. That will make only a minor difference in raising the building - changing the size of the retaining wall and removing one or two CEB's at the top of the lower columns to maintain the planned roof pitch.
[[File:Levels Diagram for Hab Lab Site.png|thumb|800 px|center]]

==Foundations & Column Slabs==
[[File:Column Pad Form Prep.png|thumb|800px|center]]
[[File:Column Pads Completed.png|thumb|800px|center]]

===Laying out the Hab Lab excavation site to be square===
''Collect equipment and supplies needed''
*Blueprint of site plan
*(2) 100’ Measuring tapes
*4 3-4’ stakes
*Hammer
*Bright spray paint
''Steps for Staking out the excavation site.''
#Choose a spot approximately 5 feet to the North and 5 feet to the West of the area to be excavated.
#Pound in a stake and spray paint the top foot or two of it.
#Measure due East a distance 10’ longer than the foundation width (total 67’).
#Place and paint another stake.
#Calculate a distance 10’ longer than the foundation length (total 62’).
#Calculate the diagonal measurement of the excavation site [Length(squared) x Width(squared) = Diagonal(squared)] (91'4").
#Measure due South from the Northwest stake the distance calculated in step 6.
#Set the second tape measure on the Northeast stake and measure the diagonal calculated in step 7 going Southwest.
#Set your third stake where the two measured lengths meet each other.
#Paint the stake.
#Measure due South from the Northeast stake the distance calculated in step 6.
#Set the second tape measure on the Northwest stake and measure the diagonal calculated in step 7 going Southeast.
#Set your fouth stake where the two measured lengths meet each other.
#Paint the stake.

*With the site leveled, the foundation holes for the column slabs must be laid out.
*After excavation, the stone fill for the foundation goes into the holes.
*At the same time, the 6" stone floor foundation is spread.

===Concrete forms and rebar reinforcing assemblies===
These can be built well ahead of need whenever volunteers are available.
*You could set up an assembly line effect to do them all at once with several people working together.
*An individual might do one unit at a time.
*An individual might do all the wood cutting at one time, another do all the rebar cutting at another time, another do all the rebar bending at another time.
*A couple of people might work together to get some wooden forms assembled once the pieces are cut, another time, a couple of people might work together to get some rebar assemblies welded.

The following step-by-step instructions are provided for building the forms and the reinforcing rebar assemblies.

[[How to bend rebar]]

[[https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=14oCxZUjs09wGuvaL4QTAII6hRxQpy20TKv7skH3INRWAVlXqtgdrh0D2ggtl&hl=en Assembly sheet for column pad forms]]

[[https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=1_hf2n-l9rCiEss45ZC8ogtMpeQki9fCoYIFdkD5x3lCOwjGh7Gknr-POJrNB&hl=en Rebar plan for column footings]]

===Laying out the locations for the forms on top of the foundation stone===
Once the form and rebar assemblies are built and the foundation stone is in place, the string site plan lay-out must be set up for placing the forms properly over their (now invisible) foundations. If you set your hole locating strings far enough out that the excavation didn't disturb them, this will be simple. It will be even easier if you rolled up your strings before the hole excavation got done and saved them. (See comments below!)

''Collect equipment and supplies needed''
*Blueprint of site plan
*100' tape measure
*Pre-placed marking stakes around outside of foundation site.
*Rolled up pre-used string balls from foundation hole layout
''Steps for Laying out Column Pad Form locations.''
#Measure to check that all pre-placed marking stakes are properly positioned.
#If any are missing or misplaced, replace or reposition them as needed.
#Unroll and retie the strings to their corresponding stakes across the foundation site .

Here's what the layout over the stone should look like.
[[File:HabLab Column Pad Form Layout.png|thumb|600 px|center]]

-Note-
We had a great plan for this - we would set our stakes out first to mark the hole edges at 4'x4', save the strings and move the stakes in by 6" to 3'x3' for the setting the pad forms.

However, when we tried it in real life - Well...
*We lost a lot of our stakes during the excavation.
*We found the holes tended to come out bigger than we had intended them to be.
*And once the stone was laid over the site, we couldn't see where the foundation holes were located!
We wound up remeasuring and resetting most of the stakes for laying out the pad site grid.
*We dug stone out of two of corners to find the edges of the foundation holes.
*We remeasured and reset corner marking stakes inside those edges.
*We retriangulated with the diagonals to assure the foundation square.
*And we remeasured and reset stakes along all the edges.

So we've rewritten the foundation lay-out plans as they are currently posted. In the current version, we set the stakes at the 3'x3' points to start with so they don't need to be moved. We also emphasized setting them firmly - and safely outside the excavation area.

-Later Note-
More sad experience - gained while setting the floor and wall forms and found our firmly set concrete East column pads were sitting 3' further South than they should have been!

What happened -
*The outlining strings for the site were set properly and square - good.
*However, while doing all of the fixing above, we got tired and thought up a short cut. We were short on stakes and we needed to mark both the hablab and the workshop sites for form placement (our 40 forms would require us to locate and put in some 40 stakes) We could place our forms easily enough in line with the strings with only one corner marked couldn't we? (That would require placing half as many stakes!)
*We started at the NorthWest corner and measured 16' East along the North line and staked that for a line. Then another 16' East we set another stake.
*Then we went back and did the same from the NorthWest corner to the South. - and from the SouthWest corner to the East.
*Finally we went down to the lower level and marked the East line of the site ''starting at the South end of the line''. - And we ran our strings.
*Later, we were tired and losing daylight when we set the forms in place along the lines on the Hab Lab site.
I suppose this short cut could have worked if we had checked more carfully:
*Rechecking the placement measurements is an obvious one.
*Standing back and looking for parallel lines is another obvious one.
*Looking for a cause when it was difficult to align the squarely built pads with the crossed strings would have been another solution.

So this is the layout we are actually working with now!
[[File:Oops HabLab Column Pad Form Layout.png|thumb|600px|center]]

We decided that an emergency floor plan change we came up with should compensate for this without having to redo most of the column pads. As we run into more complications, we'll post on them!

===Setting the column pad forms===
''Collect equipment and supplies needed''
*Supplies
**16 Pre-built column pad forms
**80 form stakes (we used 2"x2"x18" wooden stakes)
*Equipment
**Heavy Hammer(s)
**4'spirit Level
**Water level
**tape measure
''Steps to place Column Pad forms''
#Use with the center pad site on the upper level as the reference pad.
#Set a pre-built column pad form in place under the string lines with the inside of the forms under the strings.
#Drive two form stakes next to the outside of one side and one on each of the other three sides. They will need to sit deep enough that the tops of the stakes will be level with (or lower than) the top of the form.
#Level the form.
##Screw one of the stakes (on the side with two) to the side of the form so that the form sits 1/2" above the gravel level. Be sure that the top of the stake is level with (or lower than) the top of the form.
##Use the spirit level to set this side of the form level and screw it in position.
##Use the spirit level to set the opposite side of the form at the same level.
##Check the level on the other two sides and screw them in place.
#Use the water level to set the first level on each of the other pads on the upper level.
#Repeat the remainder of the leveling steps for each form.
#Use the water level to set the level of the center form in the lower level at 24" lower than the upper level pads.
#Complete the leveling steps for this form.
#Use the center form on the lower level for a reference form to set and level the remaining lower level column pad forms.

[[File:Setting Column Pad Forms Diagram.png|thumb|600 px|center]]

===Preparing Column Pad Forms for Reinforced Concrete===
Collect equipment and supplies needed
*Supplies
**16 Pre-built column pad rebar assemblies
**64 rebar chairs
*Equipment
**Rake(s)
**shovel
**tape measure
#Use a rake and shovel to remove about 2" of stone from the inside of the form. (until is 6" deep)
#Pack removed stone around outside of forms to create a fully enclosed 6" deep form.
#Use one prebuilt column pad rebar assembly for each column pad site.
#Center the rebar assembly with 3” gap between assembly and form wall on every side.
#Set rebar chairs under corners of prebuilt column pad rebar assemblies.-Put a stone or some gravel under the chairs if needed to center the rebar so it will sit at about the middle of the finished slab (3" off the floor of the form).

[[File:Preparing Column Pad Sites for Concrete Pouring.png|thumb|600 px|center]]

==Concrete Work==
We are preparing to do the big concrete pour. Using the FreeMind mind map model, this is the node that outlines the dependencies so we can be ready for that. Following sections include instructions for accomplishing them.
[[File:Dependencies for Getting Floors Poured.png|thumb|800px|center]]
Here is the mindmap updated after the all the concrete was poured.
[[File:Concrete Floors Poured.png|thumb|800px|center]]

Here is the planning layout for the concrete - which we are planning to do in one great big pour. We'll let you know how it goes!
[[File:HabLab Concrete Forms Layout.png|800px|center]]

===Insulated Outside Wall Support Slabs===
We are planning to put reinforced concrete the full 3' width of the Column Support Pads all the way around the outside of the building. They will be 3-1/2" (2x4 lumber size) deep and will support the two CEB walls that enclose the hay bale insulation. Rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.

====Preparing the rebar reinforcement assemblies====
[[How to bend rebar]]

Rebar Assembly for 13’ Outside Wall pads (make 11 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’6” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 6’4” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 12’6” by 2’6” dimensions.
#Measure and cut (1) 20’ piece of #4 rebar to 12’7” in length.
#Center the 12’7” piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld it into place.
[[File:Rebar for outside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

Rebar Assembly for 9’6” Outside Wall pads (make 2 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 4’7” from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’6” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 4’7” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 9’ by 2’6” dimensions.
#Measure and cut (1) 20’ piece of #4 rebar to 9’1” in length.
#Center the 9’1” piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld it into place.
[[File:Rebar for 9.5' outside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

Rebar Assembly for 7' Outside Wall pads (make 2 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 3’4” from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’6” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 3’4” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 6’6” by 2’6” dimensions.
#Measure and cut (1) 20’ piece of #4 rebar to 6'7" in length.
#Center the 6'7" piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld it into place.
[[File:Rebar for 7' outside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

====Preparing the concrete forms====
Our pouring plan requires these forms relating to the outside wall construction. For those wall pads that are part of our interior pads, additional forms are in other sections. If you are not pouring large interior pads, you will need to adjust the number of interior forms.

Exterior Forms for 13' Wall slabs. (make 10 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(2) 2"x4"x7' pine studs
*(1) piece of scrap lumber,
*(4) 3" screws
*Driver
''Steps to do:''
#Start two screws into the flat side of each end of the piece of scrap lumber.
#Butt the two 7' boards end to end
#Lay the piece of scrap lumber over the seam butt joint.
#Be sure the narrow sides of the boards are lined up evenly with each other.
#Drive the screws in completely to hold the boards in line.

Interior Forms for 13' Wall slabs. (make 5 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(2) 2"x4"x7' pine studs
*Measuring tape
*Pencil
*Saw
*(4) 3" screws
*Driver
''Steps to do:''
#Measure, mark, and cut one board to be 6' long.
#Start two screws into the flat side of each end of the 1' piece of scrap lumber.
#Butt the 6' piece with the other 7' board end to end
#Lay the piece of scrap lumber over the seam butt joint.
#Be sure the narrow sides of the boards are lined up evenly with each other.
#Drive the screws in completely to hold the boards in line.

Forms for Wall slabs on split-level section

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(6) 2"x4"x7' pine studs
*(4) 2"x4"x10' pine studs
*Measuring tape
*Pencil
*Saw
''Steps to do:''
#Measure, mark, and cut (2) 7' boards to be 6' long.
#Measure, mark, and cut (2) 10' boards to be 9'6" long.
#You will use the other boards uncut.

[[File:Exterior Wall Form Boards.png|thumb|600px|center]]

====Setting the forms====

===Narrow Wall Support Slabs===
We will support and stabilize the interior CEB walls with a 12" wide x 3-1/2" deep concrete slab. Rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.

====Preparing Rebar reinforcement assemblies====
Rebar Assembly for all 12” interior wall slabs

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(10) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 3’4” from one end.
#Bend 180⁰ the rebar with a 3” radius.
#Measure and mark so another 180⁰ with a 3” radius will produce 6’6” long assemblies.
#Cut the extra rebar (about 7’) off, leaving enough to tack weld each assembly together.

#Measure and mark (4) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 4’4” from the end.
#Bend 180⁰ with a 3” radius.
#Measure and mark so another 180⁰ with a 3” radius will produce 8’6” long assemblies.
#Cut the extra rebar off, leaving enough to tack weld each assembly together.

#Measure and mark (4) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” from the end.
#Bend 180⁰ with a 3” radius.
#Measure and mark so another 180⁰ with a 3” radius will produce 12’6” long assemblies.
#Use scrap cuttings (about 7’ long) to bridge the gap for each of these assemblies.
[[File:Rebar for 1' inside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

====Preparing the Concrete Forms====
These 12" wide slabs will provide a firm foundation on which to build our interior CEB room-dividing walls. Mostly they use the same sizes of forms you used for the outside walls. If you are pouring in small stages, you won't have build more forms because you can reuse the ones from the outside wall slabs. If you are going to pour all the concrete at once, you will need 7 more of the 13' inside form assemblies, 4 more uncut 7' boards, 2 more 7' boards cut to 6' lengths, 6 more boards cut to 9'6", and two boards cut to 9' in length.
Instructions for preparing all of these boards are found above - in the [[#Insulated Outside Wall Support Slabs/Preparing the Concrete Forms|Outside Wall Slabs]] section.

====Setting the Forms====

===Kitchen and Bath Areas===
The Kitchen and Bath Floor Areas both have a potential for receiving noticeable amounts of water. We consider it advisable to pave them both with concrete and include a central drain. Rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.
====Preparing the Rebar Assemblies====
Rebar Assembly for 16’x13’ slabs (make 2 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (4) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” from the end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Cut the long ends to 7’10” long.
#Overlap the short ends of two L-shaped pieces and measure to make a U shaped assembly with 12’6” between the legs.
#Make two of these assemblies.
#Overlap the legs of the U-shaped assemblies to make a rectangle measuring 15’6” x 12’6”
#Measure and cut (5) pieces of #4 rebar to 15’7” long.
#Measure and cut (7) pieces of #4 rebar to 12’7” long.
#Space and position the cut pieces into a 24” grid across the rectangle.
[[File:Rebar for between big slabs.png|thumb|600px|center]]

#Weld them into place.
[[File:Rebar for 16x13 slab.png|thumb|600px|center]]

There is one more assembly to go into this section between the two big ones. It is a modification of the exterior wall slab reinforcements.

Rebar Assembly for Interior 13’x3’ section of big Slab

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(2) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” #from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’ between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 6’4” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 12’6” by 2’ dimensions.

====Preparing the Concrete forms====
Because we are pouring this all at once, we decided to eliminate some complicated form work by including the equipment area and one room in this slab. This will be a big pour of concrete. It requires about 5 cubic yards of concrete. If you have plenty of time and are working in small batches, you can save over a yard of concrete by building the interior wall forms and pouring only wall-support pads - as shown on the layout.

The large slabs are laid between column pads, using 13' interior form assemblies. If you are pouring all at once, you will need two more of these assemblies, one more board cut to 9'6", and a piece of scrap about 3' long to complete the form work for this area. This, of course, assumes that you already have the exterior forms for the exterior wall slabs prepared. Instructions for preparing all of these are above in the [[#Insulated Outside Wall Support Slabs/Preparing the Concrete Forms|Outside Wall Slabs]]
section.
====Setting the Forms====

===Retaining Wall for Lower Level===
Ideas for this wall have been through several iterations. At present (Oct. 10th), we are planning to lay a 6" footer, 18" wide and 62' long. On top of that, we plan to put a 12" thick wall of bitumen-protected CEB. For the concrete footer, rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.
====Preparing the Rebar Assembly====
Rebar Assembly for Retaining wall footer

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(9) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Scrap #4 rebar to make (1) 6’ pieces and (1) 1’1” piece
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 8’ from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 12” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut (1) 6’ and (1) 1’1” piece of #4 rebar.
#Overlap and weld (1) 20’ length of rebar to each leg.
#Measure and weld the two longer legs together so the resulting assembly is 61’6” long.
#Weld the 6’ piece of rebar between the ends of the two shorter legs so that side is 61’6” long, too.
#Weld (3) 20’ pieces of #4 rebar into an approximately 60’ length of rebar.
#Center the 60’ piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld one end at the center of one end of the rectangle.
#Position the 1’1” piece of rebar across the rectangle to support the free end of the 60’ assembly.
#Weld the short piece to the three long ones.
[[File:Rebar Assembly for Retaining wall.png|thumb|600px|center]]
====Preparing the Concrete Form====
This is a really long form - 62 feet. You don't want to put it together ahead of time and try to carry it anywhere! What you ''do'' want to do is make sure you have all the pieces you will need cut and reserved against the time you will be setting the forms up.

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(8) 2"x6"x16' boards
*(6) Pieces of 2x4 or 2x6 scrap for splicing.
*Measuring tape
*Pencil
*Saw
''Steps to do''
#Measure and mark 18" from the end of (2) 2x6x16' boards
#Cut the two 18" pieces and mark them "form ends".
#Set aside the 6 16' boards, the 14'6" boards, the form ends, and all the scrap pieces in a reserve pile.

====Setting the Concrete Form====

==CEB Columns==

[[http://ww2.unhabitat.org/programmes/housingpolicy/Images/PDF.gif|UN CEB PDF]]

[[File:Hab_Lab_Coursework_Columns.png|thumb|800px|Center]]

==CEB Arches==

[[http://ww2.unhabitat.org/programmes/housingpolicy/documents/Vault.pdf|UN Vaults PDF]]

[[http://www.amazon.com/Concrete-Hardness-Hammer-HT-225A-Portable/dp/B0049DDJCK/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1317915942&sr=8-6|Hardness Test Hammer]] for quality assurance

==CEB Floors==

[[http://www.velacreations.com/cebfloors.html|CEB Floor Instructions]]

==CEB Walls==

[[File:Hab_Lab_Coursework_Interior_Walls.png|thumb|800px|center]]

==CEB Retaining Wall==

[[File:Hab_Lab_Coursework_Retaining_Wall.png|thumb|800px|center]]

==Insulated Roof==

# 16 11-member 2x6x16' frames
# a layer of tyvek
# a layer of lathe, mounted diagonally about 18" apart
# a layer of hay bales surrounded and around 2x12 spacers
# 16 11-member 2x4x16' frames
# agricultural roof panel on top and sides

Frames are built with one 16' beam on each end of 9 other 16' beams laid on 24" centers. These roof frames can be built quite quickly at any time labor is available, preferably ahead of time so that they can be installed as soon as the columns are ready to be covered.

==Super Insulated Walls==

2.5 foot thick wall.

4x6x12 bricks laid on the 12x4" side in standard wall layup, two walls outside surfaces 2.5' apart.

With air space left on either side, bales are stacked in the center of the wall, creating super insulation between the interior and exterior.

==Heating the HabLab==

I propose a [[http://www.heatkit.com Heatkit]] masonry furnace kit, surrounded by CEB

Hab Lab

2011-10-18T19:07:54Z

DavidIAm: /* CEB Columns */

The need for all-weather housing to shelter year-round members of the community, located where summers can be unpleasantly hot and winters unpleasantly cold, can be met with superinsulated designs. Here we will examine some possible options and our progress in bring them into existence. Planning tools, instructions, modifications, etc. will be included.

The [[Hab Lab Design Gallery|Design Page]] is a good place to see what has been offered and to post any of your own great ideas. More ideas are great for everybody!

==Survey & Design==
The area on the property for the first group habitation was on a noticeable slope. OSE staff members worked with a home-made water level to take measurements over a 100' square area.

How to make a water level: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nAcT_1T25LM

Ideas submitted for this project are located on the [[Hab Lab Design Gallery]] page.

===Building Orientation===
Oops!
Some of our pads got set 3' South of their intended site. Here is an emergency redesign idea.
[[File:Emergency Remodel HabLab.png|thumb|800px|center]]

==Planning==
There is a lot of planning that goes into building something like this. Here is a FreeMind mind map on that. It will be updated as we do more of it. The green nodes designate things we have completed - and therefore can 'go' forward with.
[[File:HabLab Planning.png|thumb|800px|center]]
The nodes with arrows indicate those that have been created as separate mind maps. Their details will be found in the subsection to which they pertain.

===Kitchen/Bath Water===
A plan for gray water drains - includes a floor drain in the kitchen and the bathroom, 2 showers, a sink, and a laundry location in the bathroom, and a sink location in the kitchen.
[[File:Gray Water Drains.png|thumb|600px|center]]

===Utility/Storage Area===

===Heating===
[[Space_Heating]]
====Source Material====
http://dnr.mo.gov/pubs/pub781.pdf

==Site Preparation==

The Hab Lab is designed to be supported by columns built of CEB (Compressed Earth Block)which are constructed on a reinforced concrete pad. Due to the slope of our site, we designed a lowered section which requires a low retaining wall. Included here are instructions for preparing the site with adequate footings.

Here is a picture with a preliminary excavation layout for the column pad sites and the retaining wall in the Hab Lab.
*When you are laying out the excavation site, be sure to add 5' in each direction for the excavator to work to.

[[File:HabLab Excavation Layout.png|thumb|800 px|center]]
This levels diagram is from our theoretical measurements - we actually wound up with a 2' drop, not a 2'8" drop. That will make only a minor difference in raising the building - changing the size of the retaining wall and removing one or two CEB's at the top of the lower columns to maintain the planned roof pitch.
[[File:Levels Diagram for Hab Lab Site.png|thumb|800 px|center]]

==Foundations & Column Slabs==
[[File:Column Pad Form Prep.png|thumb|800px|center]]
[[File:Column Pads Completed.png|thumb|800px|center]]

===Laying out the Hab Lab excavation site to be square===
''Collect equipment and supplies needed''
*Blueprint of site plan
*(2) 100’ Measuring tapes
*4 3-4’ stakes
*Hammer
*Bright spray paint
''Steps for Staking out the excavation site.''
#Choose a spot approximately 5 feet to the North and 5 feet to the West of the area to be excavated.
#Pound in a stake and spray paint the top foot or two of it.
#Measure due East a distance 10’ longer than the foundation width (total 67’).
#Place and paint another stake.
#Calculate a distance 10’ longer than the foundation length (total 62’).
#Calculate the diagonal measurement of the excavation site [Length(squared) x Width(squared) = Diagonal(squared)] (91'4").
#Measure due South from the Northwest stake the distance calculated in step 6.
#Set the second tape measure on the Northeast stake and measure the diagonal calculated in step 7 going Southwest.
#Set your third stake where the two measured lengths meet each other.
#Paint the stake.
#Measure due South from the Northeast stake the distance calculated in step 6.
#Set the second tape measure on the Northwest stake and measure the diagonal calculated in step 7 going Southeast.
#Set your fouth stake where the two measured lengths meet each other.
#Paint the stake.

*With the site leveled, the foundation holes for the column slabs must be laid out.
*After excavation, the stone fill for the foundation goes into the holes.
*At the same time, the 6" stone floor foundation is spread.

===Concrete forms and rebar reinforcing assemblies===
These can be built well ahead of need whenever volunteers are available.
*You could set up an assembly line effect to do them all at once with several people working together.
*An individual might do one unit at a time.
*An individual might do all the wood cutting at one time, another do all the rebar cutting at another time, another do all the rebar bending at another time.
*A couple of people might work together to get some wooden forms assembled once the pieces are cut, another time, a couple of people might work together to get some rebar assemblies welded.

The following step-by-step instructions are provided for building the forms and the reinforcing rebar assemblies.

[[How to bend rebar]]

[[https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=14oCxZUjs09wGuvaL4QTAII6hRxQpy20TKv7skH3INRWAVlXqtgdrh0D2ggtl&hl=en Assembly sheet for column pad forms]]

[[https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=1_hf2n-l9rCiEss45ZC8ogtMpeQki9fCoYIFdkD5x3lCOwjGh7Gknr-POJrNB&hl=en Rebar plan for column footings]]

===Laying out the locations for the forms on top of the foundation stone===
Once the form and rebar assemblies are built and the foundation stone is in place, the string site plan lay-out must be set up for placing the forms properly over their (now invisible) foundations. If you set your hole locating strings far enough out that the excavation didn't disturb them, this will be simple. It will be even easier if you rolled up your strings before the hole excavation got done and saved them. (See comments below!)

''Collect equipment and supplies needed''
*Blueprint of site plan
*100' tape measure
*Pre-placed marking stakes around outside of foundation site.
*Rolled up pre-used string balls from foundation hole layout
''Steps for Laying out Column Pad Form locations.''
#Measure to check that all pre-placed marking stakes are properly positioned.
#If any are missing or misplaced, replace or reposition them as needed.
#Unroll and retie the strings to their corresponding stakes across the foundation site .

Here's what the layout over the stone should look like.
[[File:HabLab Column Pad Form Layout.png|thumb|600 px|center]]

-Note-
We had a great plan for this - we would set our stakes out first to mark the hole edges at 4'x4', save the strings and move the stakes in by 6" to 3'x3' for the setting the pad forms.

However, when we tried it in real life - Well...
*We lost a lot of our stakes during the excavation.
*We found the holes tended to come out bigger than we had intended them to be.
*And once the stone was laid over the site, we couldn't see where the foundation holes were located!
We wound up remeasuring and resetting most of the stakes for laying out the pad site grid.
*We dug stone out of two of corners to find the edges of the foundation holes.
*We remeasured and reset corner marking stakes inside those edges.
*We retriangulated with the diagonals to assure the foundation square.
*And we remeasured and reset stakes along all the edges.

So we've rewritten the foundation lay-out plans as they are currently posted. In the current version, we set the stakes at the 3'x3' points to start with so they don't need to be moved. We also emphasized setting them firmly - and safely outside the excavation area.

-Later Note-
More sad experience - gained while setting the floor and wall forms and found our firmly set concrete East column pads were sitting 3' further South than they should have been!

What happened -
*The outlining strings for the site were set properly and square - good.
*However, while doing all of the fixing above, we got tired and thought up a short cut. We were short on stakes and we needed to mark both the hablab and the workshop sites for form placement (our 40 forms would require us to locate and put in some 40 stakes) We could place our forms easily enough in line with the strings with only one corner marked couldn't we? (That would require placing half as many stakes!)
*We started at the NorthWest corner and measured 16' East along the North line and staked that for a line. Then another 16' East we set another stake.
*Then we went back and did the same from the NorthWest corner to the South. - and from the SouthWest corner to the East.
*Finally we went down to the lower level and marked the East line of the site ''starting at the South end of the line''. - And we ran our strings.
*Later, we were tired and losing daylight when we set the forms in place along the lines on the Hab Lab site.
I suppose this short cut could have worked if we had checked more carfully:
*Rechecking the placement measurements is an obvious one.
*Standing back and looking for parallel lines is another obvious one.
*Looking for a cause when it was difficult to align the squarely built pads with the crossed strings would have been another solution.

So this is the layout we are actually working with now!
[[File:Oops HabLab Column Pad Form Layout.png|thumb|600px|center]]

We decided that an emergency floor plan change we came up with should compensate for this without having to redo most of the column pads. As we run into more complications, we'll post on them!

===Setting the column pad forms===
''Collect equipment and supplies needed''
*Supplies
**16 Pre-built column pad forms
**80 form stakes (we used 2"x2"x18" wooden stakes)
*Equipment
**Heavy Hammer(s)
**4'spirit Level
**Water level
**tape measure
''Steps to place Column Pad forms''
#Use with the center pad site on the upper level as the reference pad.
#Set a pre-built column pad form in place under the string lines with the inside of the forms under the strings.
#Drive two form stakes next to the outside of one side and one on each of the other three sides. They will need to sit deep enough that the tops of the stakes will be level with (or lower than) the top of the form.
#Level the form.
##Screw one of the stakes (on the side with two) to the side of the form so that the form sits 1/2" above the gravel level. Be sure that the top of the stake is level with (or lower than) the top of the form.
##Use the spirit level to set this side of the form level and screw it in position.
##Use the spirit level to set the opposite side of the form at the same level.
##Check the level on the other two sides and screw them in place.
#Use the water level to set the first level on each of the other pads on the upper level.
#Repeat the remainder of the leveling steps for each form.
#Use the water level to set the level of the center form in the lower level at 24" lower than the upper level pads.
#Complete the leveling steps for this form.
#Use the center form on the lower level for a reference form to set and level the remaining lower level column pad forms.

[[File:Setting Column Pad Forms Diagram.png|thumb|600 px|center]]

===Preparing Column Pad Forms for Reinforced Concrete===
Collect equipment and supplies needed
*Supplies
**16 Pre-built column pad rebar assemblies
**64 rebar chairs
*Equipment
**Rake(s)
**shovel
**tape measure
#Use a rake and shovel to remove about 2" of stone from the inside of the form. (until is 6" deep)
#Pack removed stone around outside of forms to create a fully enclosed 6" deep form.
#Use one prebuilt column pad rebar assembly for each column pad site.
#Center the rebar assembly with 3” gap between assembly and form wall on every side.
#Set rebar chairs under corners of prebuilt column pad rebar assemblies.-Put a stone or some gravel under the chairs if needed to center the rebar so it will sit at about the middle of the finished slab (3" off the floor of the form).

[[File:Preparing Column Pad Sites for Concrete Pouring.png|thumb|600 px|center]]

==Concrete Work==
We are preparing to do the big concrete pour. Using the FreeMind mind map model, this is the node that outlines the dependencies so we can be ready for that. Following sections include instructions for accomplishing them.
[[File:Dependencies for Getting Floors Poured.png|thumb|800px|center]]
Here is the mindmap updated after the all the concrete was poured.
[[File:Concrete Floors Poured.png|thumb|800px|center]]

Here is the planning layout for the concrete - which we are planning to do in one great big pour. We'll let you know how it goes!
[[File:HabLab Concrete Forms Layout.png|800px|center]]

===Insulated Outside Wall Support Slabs===
We are planning to put reinforced concrete the full 3' width of the Column Support Pads all the way around the outside of the building. They will be 3-1/2" (2x4 lumber size) deep and will support the two CEB walls that enclose the hay bale insulation. Rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.

====Preparing the rebar reinforcement assemblies====
[[How to bend rebar]]

Rebar Assembly for 13’ Outside Wall pads (make 11 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’6” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 6’4” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 12’6” by 2’6” dimensions.
#Measure and cut (1) 20’ piece of #4 rebar to 12’7” in length.
#Center the 12’7” piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld it into place.
[[File:Rebar for outside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

Rebar Assembly for 9’6” Outside Wall pads (make 2 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 4’7” from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’6” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 4’7” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 9’ by 2’6” dimensions.
#Measure and cut (1) 20’ piece of #4 rebar to 9’1” in length.
#Center the 9’1” piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld it into place.
[[File:Rebar for 9.5' outside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

Rebar Assembly for 7' Outside Wall pads (make 2 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 3’4” from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’6” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 3’4” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 6’6” by 2’6” dimensions.
#Measure and cut (1) 20’ piece of #4 rebar to 6'7" in length.
#Center the 6'7" piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld it into place.
[[File:Rebar for 7' outside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

====Preparing the concrete forms====
Our pouring plan requires these forms relating to the outside wall construction. For those wall pads that are part of our interior pads, additional forms are in other sections. If you are not pouring large interior pads, you will need to adjust the number of interior forms.

Exterior Forms for 13' Wall slabs. (make 10 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(2) 2"x4"x7' pine studs
*(1) piece of scrap lumber,
*(4) 3" screws
*Driver
''Steps to do:''
#Start two screws into the flat side of each end of the piece of scrap lumber.
#Butt the two 7' boards end to end
#Lay the piece of scrap lumber over the seam butt joint.
#Be sure the narrow sides of the boards are lined up evenly with each other.
#Drive the screws in completely to hold the boards in line.

Interior Forms for 13' Wall slabs. (make 5 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(2) 2"x4"x7' pine studs
*Measuring tape
*Pencil
*Saw
*(4) 3" screws
*Driver
''Steps to do:''
#Measure, mark, and cut one board to be 6' long.
#Start two screws into the flat side of each end of the 1' piece of scrap lumber.
#Butt the 6' piece with the other 7' board end to end
#Lay the piece of scrap lumber over the seam butt joint.
#Be sure the narrow sides of the boards are lined up evenly with each other.
#Drive the screws in completely to hold the boards in line.

Forms for Wall slabs on split-level section

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(6) 2"x4"x7' pine studs
*(4) 2"x4"x10' pine studs
*Measuring tape
*Pencil
*Saw
''Steps to do:''
#Measure, mark, and cut (2) 7' boards to be 6' long.
#Measure, mark, and cut (2) 10' boards to be 9'6" long.
#You will use the other boards uncut.

[[File:Exterior Wall Form Boards.png|thumb|600px|center]]

====Setting the forms====

===Narrow Wall Support Slabs===
We will support and stabilize the interior CEB walls with a 12" wide x 3-1/2" deep concrete slab. Rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.

====Preparing Rebar reinforcement assemblies====
Rebar Assembly for all 12” interior wall slabs

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(10) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 3’4” from one end.
#Bend 180⁰ the rebar with a 3” radius.
#Measure and mark so another 180⁰ with a 3” radius will produce 6’6” long assemblies.
#Cut the extra rebar (about 7’) off, leaving enough to tack weld each assembly together.

#Measure and mark (4) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 4’4” from the end.
#Bend 180⁰ with a 3” radius.
#Measure and mark so another 180⁰ with a 3” radius will produce 8’6” long assemblies.
#Cut the extra rebar off, leaving enough to tack weld each assembly together.

#Measure and mark (4) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” from the end.
#Bend 180⁰ with a 3” radius.
#Measure and mark so another 180⁰ with a 3” radius will produce 12’6” long assemblies.
#Use scrap cuttings (about 7’ long) to bridge the gap for each of these assemblies.
[[File:Rebar for 1' inside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

====Preparing the Concrete Forms====
These 12" wide slabs will provide a firm foundation on which to build our interior CEB room-dividing walls. Mostly they use the same sizes of forms you used for the outside walls. If you are pouring in small stages, you won't have build more forms because you can reuse the ones from the outside wall slabs. If you are going to pour all the concrete at once, you will need 7 more of the 13' inside form assemblies, 4 more uncut 7' boards, 2 more 7' boards cut to 6' lengths, 6 more boards cut to 9'6", and two boards cut to 9' in length.
Instructions for preparing all of these boards are found above - in the [[#Insulated Outside Wall Support Slabs/Preparing the Concrete Forms|Outside Wall Slabs]] section.

====Setting the Forms====

===Kitchen and Bath Areas===
The Kitchen and Bath Floor Areas both have a potential for receiving noticeable amounts of water. We consider it advisable to pave them both with concrete and include a central drain. Rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.
====Preparing the Rebar Assemblies====
Rebar Assembly for 16’x13’ slabs (make 2 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (4) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” from the end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Cut the long ends to 7’10” long.
#Overlap the short ends of two L-shaped pieces and measure to make a U shaped assembly with 12’6” between the legs.
#Make two of these assemblies.
#Overlap the legs of the U-shaped assemblies to make a rectangle measuring 15’6” x 12’6”
#Measure and cut (5) pieces of #4 rebar to 15’7” long.
#Measure and cut (7) pieces of #4 rebar to 12’7” long.
#Space and position the cut pieces into a 24” grid across the rectangle.
[[File:Rebar for between big slabs.png|thumb|600px|center]]

#Weld them into place.
[[File:Rebar for 16x13 slab.png|thumb|600px|center]]

There is one more assembly to go into this section between the two big ones. It is a modification of the exterior wall slab reinforcements.

Rebar Assembly for Interior 13’x3’ section of big Slab

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(2) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” #from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’ between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 6’4” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 12’6” by 2’ dimensions.

====Preparing the Concrete forms====
Because we are pouring this all at once, we decided to eliminate some complicated form work by including the equipment area and one room in this slab. This will be a big pour of concrete. It requires about 5 cubic yards of concrete. If you have plenty of time and are working in small batches, you can save over a yard of concrete by building the interior wall forms and pouring only wall-support pads - as shown on the layout.

The large slabs are laid between column pads, using 13' interior form assemblies. If you are pouring all at once, you will need two more of these assemblies, one more board cut to 9'6", and a piece of scrap about 3' long to complete the form work for this area. This, of course, assumes that you already have the exterior forms for the exterior wall slabs prepared. Instructions for preparing all of these are above in the [[#Insulated Outside Wall Support Slabs/Preparing the Concrete Forms|Outside Wall Slabs]]
section.
====Setting the Forms====

===Retaining Wall for Lower Level===
Ideas for this wall have been through several iterations. At present (Oct. 10th), we are planning to lay a 6" footer, 18" wide and 62' long. On top of that, we plan to put a 12" thick wall of bitumen-protected CEB. For the concrete footer, rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.
====Preparing the Rebar Assembly====
Rebar Assembly for Retaining wall footer

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(9) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Scrap #4 rebar to make (1) 6’ pieces and (1) 1’1” piece
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 8’ from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 12” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut (1) 6’ and (1) 1’1” piece of #4 rebar.
#Overlap and weld (1) 20’ length of rebar to each leg.
#Measure and weld the two longer legs together so the resulting assembly is 61’6” long.
#Weld the 6’ piece of rebar between the ends of the two shorter legs so that side is 61’6” long, too.
#Weld (3) 20’ pieces of #4 rebar into an approximately 60’ length of rebar.
#Center the 60’ piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld one end at the center of one end of the rectangle.
#Position the 1’1” piece of rebar across the rectangle to support the free end of the 60’ assembly.
#Weld the short piece to the three long ones.
[[File:Rebar Assembly for Retaining wall.png|thumb|600px|center]]
====Preparing the Concrete Form====
This is a really long form - 62 feet. You don't want to put it together ahead of time and try to carry it anywhere! What you ''do'' want to do is make sure you have all the pieces you will need cut and reserved against the time you will be setting the forms up.

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(8) 2"x6"x16' boards
*(6) Pieces of 2x4 or 2x6 scrap for splicing.
*Measuring tape
*Pencil
*Saw
''Steps to do''
#Measure and mark 18" from the end of (2) 2x6x16' boards
#Cut the two 18" pieces and mark them "form ends".
#Set aside the 6 16' boards, the 14'6" boards, the form ends, and all the scrap pieces in a reserve pile.

====Setting the Concrete Form====

==CEB Columns==

[[http://ww2.unhabitat.org/programmes/housingpolicy/Images/PDF.gif|UN CEB PDF]]

[[File:Hab_Lab_Coursework_Columns.png|thumb|800px|Center]]

==CEB Arches==

[[http://ww2.unhabitat.org/programmes/housingpolicy/documents/Vault.pdf|UN Vaults PDF]]

[[http://www.amazon.com/Concrete-Hardness-Hammer-HT-225A-Portable/dp/B0049DDJCK/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1317915942&sr=8-6|Hardness Test Hammer]] for quality assurance

==CEB Floors==

[[http://www.velacreations.com/cebfloors.html|CEB Floor Instructions]]

==Insulated Roof==

# 16 11-member 2x6x16' frames
# a layer of tyvek
# a layer of lathe, mounted diagonally about 18" apart
# a layer of hay bales surrounded and around 2x12 spacers
# 16 11-member 2x4x16' frames
# agricultural roof panel on top and sides

Frames are built with one 16' beam on each end of 9 other 16' beams laid on 24" centers. These roof frames can be built quite quickly at any time labor is available, preferably ahead of time so that they can be installed as soon as the columns are ready to be covered.

==Super Insulated Walls==

2.5 foot thick wall.

4x6x12 bricks laid on the 12x4" side in standard wall layup, two walls outside surfaces 2.5' apart.

With air space left on either side, bales are stacked in the center of the wall, creating super insulation between the interior and exterior.

==Heating the HabLab==

I propose a [[http://www.heatkit.com Heatkit]] masonry furnace kit, surrounded by CEB

Hab Lab

2011-10-18T19:05:28Z

DavidIAm: /* CEB Columns */

The need for all-weather housing to shelter year-round members of the community, located where summers can be unpleasantly hot and winters unpleasantly cold, can be met with superinsulated designs. Here we will examine some possible options and our progress in bring them into existence. Planning tools, instructions, modifications, etc. will be included.

The [[Hab Lab Design Gallery|Design Page]] is a good place to see what has been offered and to post any of your own great ideas. More ideas are great for everybody!

==Survey & Design==
The area on the property for the first group habitation was on a noticeable slope. OSE staff members worked with a home-made water level to take measurements over a 100' square area.

How to make a water level: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nAcT_1T25LM

Ideas submitted for this project are located on the [[Hab Lab Design Gallery]] page.

===Building Orientation===
Oops!
Some of our pads got set 3' South of their intended site. Here is an emergency redesign idea.
[[File:Emergency Remodel HabLab.png|thumb|800px|center]]

==Planning==
There is a lot of planning that goes into building something like this. Here is a FreeMind mind map on that. It will be updated as we do more of it. The green nodes designate things we have completed - and therefore can 'go' forward with.
[[File:HabLab Planning.png|thumb|800px|center]]
The nodes with arrows indicate those that have been created as separate mind maps. Their details will be found in the subsection to which they pertain.

===Kitchen/Bath Water===
A plan for gray water drains - includes a floor drain in the kitchen and the bathroom, 2 showers, a sink, and a laundry location in the bathroom, and a sink location in the kitchen.
[[File:Gray Water Drains.png|thumb|600px|center]]

===Utility/Storage Area===

===Heating===
[[Space_Heating]]
====Source Material====
http://dnr.mo.gov/pubs/pub781.pdf

==Site Preparation==

The Hab Lab is designed to be supported by columns built of CEB (Compressed Earth Block)which are constructed on a reinforced concrete pad. Due to the slope of our site, we designed a lowered section which requires a low retaining wall. Included here are instructions for preparing the site with adequate footings.

Here is a picture with a preliminary excavation layout for the column pad sites and the retaining wall in the Hab Lab.
*When you are laying out the excavation site, be sure to add 5' in each direction for the excavator to work to.

[[File:HabLab Excavation Layout.png|thumb|800 px|center]]
This levels diagram is from our theoretical measurements - we actually wound up with a 2' drop, not a 2'8" drop. That will make only a minor difference in raising the building - changing the size of the retaining wall and removing one or two CEB's at the top of the lower columns to maintain the planned roof pitch.
[[File:Levels Diagram for Hab Lab Site.png|thumb|800 px|center]]

==Foundations & Column Slabs==
[[File:Column Pad Form Prep.png|thumb|800px|center]]
[[File:Column Pads Completed.png|thumb|800px|center]]

===Laying out the Hab Lab excavation site to be square===
''Collect equipment and supplies needed''
*Blueprint of site plan
*(2) 100’ Measuring tapes
*4 3-4’ stakes
*Hammer
*Bright spray paint
''Steps for Staking out the excavation site.''
#Choose a spot approximately 5 feet to the North and 5 feet to the West of the area to be excavated.
#Pound in a stake and spray paint the top foot or two of it.
#Measure due East a distance 10’ longer than the foundation width (total 67’).
#Place and paint another stake.
#Calculate a distance 10’ longer than the foundation length (total 62’).
#Calculate the diagonal measurement of the excavation site [Length(squared) x Width(squared) = Diagonal(squared)] (91'4").
#Measure due South from the Northwest stake the distance calculated in step 6.
#Set the second tape measure on the Northeast stake and measure the diagonal calculated in step 7 going Southwest.
#Set your third stake where the two measured lengths meet each other.
#Paint the stake.
#Measure due South from the Northeast stake the distance calculated in step 6.
#Set the second tape measure on the Northwest stake and measure the diagonal calculated in step 7 going Southeast.
#Set your fouth stake where the two measured lengths meet each other.
#Paint the stake.

*With the site leveled, the foundation holes for the column slabs must be laid out.
*After excavation, the stone fill for the foundation goes into the holes.
*At the same time, the 6" stone floor foundation is spread.

===Concrete forms and rebar reinforcing assemblies===
These can be built well ahead of need whenever volunteers are available.
*You could set up an assembly line effect to do them all at once with several people working together.
*An individual might do one unit at a time.
*An individual might do all the wood cutting at one time, another do all the rebar cutting at another time, another do all the rebar bending at another time.
*A couple of people might work together to get some wooden forms assembled once the pieces are cut, another time, a couple of people might work together to get some rebar assemblies welded.

The following step-by-step instructions are provided for building the forms and the reinforcing rebar assemblies.

[[How to bend rebar]]

[[https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=14oCxZUjs09wGuvaL4QTAII6hRxQpy20TKv7skH3INRWAVlXqtgdrh0D2ggtl&hl=en Assembly sheet for column pad forms]]

[[https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=1_hf2n-l9rCiEss45ZC8ogtMpeQki9fCoYIFdkD5x3lCOwjGh7Gknr-POJrNB&hl=en Rebar plan for column footings]]

===Laying out the locations for the forms on top of the foundation stone===
Once the form and rebar assemblies are built and the foundation stone is in place, the string site plan lay-out must be set up for placing the forms properly over their (now invisible) foundations. If you set your hole locating strings far enough out that the excavation didn't disturb them, this will be simple. It will be even easier if you rolled up your strings before the hole excavation got done and saved them. (See comments below!)

''Collect equipment and supplies needed''
*Blueprint of site plan
*100' tape measure
*Pre-placed marking stakes around outside of foundation site.
*Rolled up pre-used string balls from foundation hole layout
''Steps for Laying out Column Pad Form locations.''
#Measure to check that all pre-placed marking stakes are properly positioned.
#If any are missing or misplaced, replace or reposition them as needed.
#Unroll and retie the strings to their corresponding stakes across the foundation site .

Here's what the layout over the stone should look like.
[[File:HabLab Column Pad Form Layout.png|thumb|600 px|center]]

-Note-
We had a great plan for this - we would set our stakes out first to mark the hole edges at 4'x4', save the strings and move the stakes in by 6" to 3'x3' for the setting the pad forms.

However, when we tried it in real life - Well...
*We lost a lot of our stakes during the excavation.
*We found the holes tended to come out bigger than we had intended them to be.
*And once the stone was laid over the site, we couldn't see where the foundation holes were located!
We wound up remeasuring and resetting most of the stakes for laying out the pad site grid.
*We dug stone out of two of corners to find the edges of the foundation holes.
*We remeasured and reset corner marking stakes inside those edges.
*We retriangulated with the diagonals to assure the foundation square.
*And we remeasured and reset stakes along all the edges.

So we've rewritten the foundation lay-out plans as they are currently posted. In the current version, we set the stakes at the 3'x3' points to start with so they don't need to be moved. We also emphasized setting them firmly - and safely outside the excavation area.

-Later Note-
More sad experience - gained while setting the floor and wall forms and found our firmly set concrete East column pads were sitting 3' further South than they should have been!

What happened -
*The outlining strings for the site were set properly and square - good.
*However, while doing all of the fixing above, we got tired and thought up a short cut. We were short on stakes and we needed to mark both the hablab and the workshop sites for form placement (our 40 forms would require us to locate and put in some 40 stakes) We could place our forms easily enough in line with the strings with only one corner marked couldn't we? (That would require placing half as many stakes!)
*We started at the NorthWest corner and measured 16' East along the North line and staked that for a line. Then another 16' East we set another stake.
*Then we went back and did the same from the NorthWest corner to the South. - and from the SouthWest corner to the East.
*Finally we went down to the lower level and marked the East line of the site ''starting at the South end of the line''. - And we ran our strings.
*Later, we were tired and losing daylight when we set the forms in place along the lines on the Hab Lab site.
I suppose this short cut could have worked if we had checked more carfully:
*Rechecking the placement measurements is an obvious one.
*Standing back and looking for parallel lines is another obvious one.
*Looking for a cause when it was difficult to align the squarely built pads with the crossed strings would have been another solution.

So this is the layout we are actually working with now!
[[File:Oops HabLab Column Pad Form Layout.png|thumb|600px|center]]

We decided that an emergency floor plan change we came up with should compensate for this without having to redo most of the column pads. As we run into more complications, we'll post on them!

===Setting the column pad forms===
''Collect equipment and supplies needed''
*Supplies
**16 Pre-built column pad forms
**80 form stakes (we used 2"x2"x18" wooden stakes)
*Equipment
**Heavy Hammer(s)
**4'spirit Level
**Water level
**tape measure
''Steps to place Column Pad forms''
#Use with the center pad site on the upper level as the reference pad.
#Set a pre-built column pad form in place under the string lines with the inside of the forms under the strings.
#Drive two form stakes next to the outside of one side and one on each of the other three sides. They will need to sit deep enough that the tops of the stakes will be level with (or lower than) the top of the form.
#Level the form.
##Screw one of the stakes (on the side with two) to the side of the form so that the form sits 1/2" above the gravel level. Be sure that the top of the stake is level with (or lower than) the top of the form.
##Use the spirit level to set this side of the form level and screw it in position.
##Use the spirit level to set the opposite side of the form at the same level.
##Check the level on the other two sides and screw them in place.
#Use the water level to set the first level on each of the other pads on the upper level.
#Repeat the remainder of the leveling steps for each form.
#Use the water level to set the level of the center form in the lower level at 24" lower than the upper level pads.
#Complete the leveling steps for this form.
#Use the center form on the lower level for a reference form to set and level the remaining lower level column pad forms.

[[File:Setting Column Pad Forms Diagram.png|thumb|600 px|center]]

===Preparing Column Pad Forms for Reinforced Concrete===
Collect equipment and supplies needed
*Supplies
**16 Pre-built column pad rebar assemblies
**64 rebar chairs
*Equipment
**Rake(s)
**shovel
**tape measure
#Use a rake and shovel to remove about 2" of stone from the inside of the form. (until is 6" deep)
#Pack removed stone around outside of forms to create a fully enclosed 6" deep form.
#Use one prebuilt column pad rebar assembly for each column pad site.
#Center the rebar assembly with 3” gap between assembly and form wall on every side.
#Set rebar chairs under corners of prebuilt column pad rebar assemblies.-Put a stone or some gravel under the chairs if needed to center the rebar so it will sit at about the middle of the finished slab (3" off the floor of the form).

[[File:Preparing Column Pad Sites for Concrete Pouring.png|thumb|600 px|center]]

==Concrete Work==
We are preparing to do the big concrete pour. Using the FreeMind mind map model, this is the node that outlines the dependencies so we can be ready for that. Following sections include instructions for accomplishing them.
[[File:Dependencies for Getting Floors Poured.png|thumb|800px|center]]
Here is the mindmap updated after the all the concrete was poured.
[[File:Concrete Floors Poured.png|thumb|800px|center]]

Here is the planning layout for the concrete - which we are planning to do in one great big pour. We'll let you know how it goes!
[[File:HabLab Concrete Forms Layout.png|800px|center]]

===Insulated Outside Wall Support Slabs===
We are planning to put reinforced concrete the full 3' width of the Column Support Pads all the way around the outside of the building. They will be 3-1/2" (2x4 lumber size) deep and will support the two CEB walls that enclose the hay bale insulation. Rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.

====Preparing the rebar reinforcement assemblies====
[[How to bend rebar]]

Rebar Assembly for 13’ Outside Wall pads (make 11 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’6” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 6’4” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 12’6” by 2’6” dimensions.
#Measure and cut (1) 20’ piece of #4 rebar to 12’7” in length.
#Center the 12’7” piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld it into place.
[[File:Rebar for outside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

Rebar Assembly for 9’6” Outside Wall pads (make 2 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 4’7” from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’6” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 4’7” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 9’ by 2’6” dimensions.
#Measure and cut (1) 20’ piece of #4 rebar to 9’1” in length.
#Center the 9’1” piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld it into place.
[[File:Rebar for 9.5' outside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

Rebar Assembly for 7' Outside Wall pads (make 2 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 3’4” from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’6” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 3’4” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 6’6” by 2’6” dimensions.
#Measure and cut (1) 20’ piece of #4 rebar to 6'7" in length.
#Center the 6'7" piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld it into place.
[[File:Rebar for 7' outside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

====Preparing the concrete forms====
Our pouring plan requires these forms relating to the outside wall construction. For those wall pads that are part of our interior pads, additional forms are in other sections. If you are not pouring large interior pads, you will need to adjust the number of interior forms.

Exterior Forms for 13' Wall slabs. (make 10 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(2) 2"x4"x7' pine studs
*(1) piece of scrap lumber,
*(4) 3" screws
*Driver
''Steps to do:''
#Start two screws into the flat side of each end of the piece of scrap lumber.
#Butt the two 7' boards end to end
#Lay the piece of scrap lumber over the seam butt joint.
#Be sure the narrow sides of the boards are lined up evenly with each other.
#Drive the screws in completely to hold the boards in line.

Interior Forms for 13' Wall slabs. (make 5 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(2) 2"x4"x7' pine studs
*Measuring tape
*Pencil
*Saw
*(4) 3" screws
*Driver
''Steps to do:''
#Measure, mark, and cut one board to be 6' long.
#Start two screws into the flat side of each end of the 1' piece of scrap lumber.
#Butt the 6' piece with the other 7' board end to end
#Lay the piece of scrap lumber over the seam butt joint.
#Be sure the narrow sides of the boards are lined up evenly with each other.
#Drive the screws in completely to hold the boards in line.

Forms for Wall slabs on split-level section

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(6) 2"x4"x7' pine studs
*(4) 2"x4"x10' pine studs
*Measuring tape
*Pencil
*Saw
''Steps to do:''
#Measure, mark, and cut (2) 7' boards to be 6' long.
#Measure, mark, and cut (2) 10' boards to be 9'6" long.
#You will use the other boards uncut.

[[File:Exterior Wall Form Boards.png|thumb|600px|center]]

====Setting the forms====

===Narrow Wall Support Slabs===
We will support and stabilize the interior CEB walls with a 12" wide x 3-1/2" deep concrete slab. Rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.

====Preparing Rebar reinforcement assemblies====
Rebar Assembly for all 12” interior wall slabs

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(10) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 3’4” from one end.
#Bend 180⁰ the rebar with a 3” radius.
#Measure and mark so another 180⁰ with a 3” radius will produce 6’6” long assemblies.
#Cut the extra rebar (about 7’) off, leaving enough to tack weld each assembly together.

#Measure and mark (4) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 4’4” from the end.
#Bend 180⁰ with a 3” radius.
#Measure and mark so another 180⁰ with a 3” radius will produce 8’6” long assemblies.
#Cut the extra rebar off, leaving enough to tack weld each assembly together.

#Measure and mark (4) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” from the end.
#Bend 180⁰ with a 3” radius.
#Measure and mark so another 180⁰ with a 3” radius will produce 12’6” long assemblies.
#Use scrap cuttings (about 7’ long) to bridge the gap for each of these assemblies.
[[File:Rebar for 1' inside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

====Preparing the Concrete Forms====
These 12" wide slabs will provide a firm foundation on which to build our interior CEB room-dividing walls. Mostly they use the same sizes of forms you used for the outside walls. If you are pouring in small stages, you won't have build more forms because you can reuse the ones from the outside wall slabs. If you are going to pour all the concrete at once, you will need 7 more of the 13' inside form assemblies, 4 more uncut 7' boards, 2 more 7' boards cut to 6' lengths, 6 more boards cut to 9'6", and two boards cut to 9' in length.
Instructions for preparing all of these boards are found above - in the [[#Insulated Outside Wall Support Slabs/Preparing the Concrete Forms|Outside Wall Slabs]] section.

====Setting the Forms====

===Kitchen and Bath Areas===
The Kitchen and Bath Floor Areas both have a potential for receiving noticeable amounts of water. We consider it advisable to pave them both with concrete and include a central drain. Rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.
====Preparing the Rebar Assemblies====
Rebar Assembly for 16’x13’ slabs (make 2 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (4) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” from the end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Cut the long ends to 7’10” long.
#Overlap the short ends of two L-shaped pieces and measure to make a U shaped assembly with 12’6” between the legs.
#Make two of these assemblies.
#Overlap the legs of the U-shaped assemblies to make a rectangle measuring 15’6” x 12’6”
#Measure and cut (5) pieces of #4 rebar to 15’7” long.
#Measure and cut (7) pieces of #4 rebar to 12’7” long.
#Space and position the cut pieces into a 24” grid across the rectangle.
[[File:Rebar for between big slabs.png|thumb|600px|center]]

#Weld them into place.
[[File:Rebar for 16x13 slab.png|thumb|600px|center]]

There is one more assembly to go into this section between the two big ones. It is a modification of the exterior wall slab reinforcements.

Rebar Assembly for Interior 13’x3’ section of big Slab

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(2) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” #from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’ between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 6’4” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 12’6” by 2’ dimensions.

====Preparing the Concrete forms====
Because we are pouring this all at once, we decided to eliminate some complicated form work by including the equipment area and one room in this slab. This will be a big pour of concrete. It requires about 5 cubic yards of concrete. If you have plenty of time and are working in small batches, you can save over a yard of concrete by building the interior wall forms and pouring only wall-support pads - as shown on the layout.

The large slabs are laid between column pads, using 13' interior form assemblies. If you are pouring all at once, you will need two more of these assemblies, one more board cut to 9'6", and a piece of scrap about 3' long to complete the form work for this area. This, of course, assumes that you already have the exterior forms for the exterior wall slabs prepared. Instructions for preparing all of these are above in the [[#Insulated Outside Wall Support Slabs/Preparing the Concrete Forms|Outside Wall Slabs]]
section.
====Setting the Forms====

===Retaining Wall for Lower Level===
Ideas for this wall have been through several iterations. At present (Oct. 10th), we are planning to lay a 6" footer, 18" wide and 62' long. On top of that, we plan to put a 12" thick wall of bitumen-protected CEB. For the concrete footer, rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.
====Preparing the Rebar Assembly====
Rebar Assembly for Retaining wall footer

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(9) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Scrap #4 rebar to make (1) 6’ pieces and (1) 1’1” piece
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 8’ from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 12” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut (1) 6’ and (1) 1’1” piece of #4 rebar.
#Overlap and weld (1) 20’ length of rebar to each leg.
#Measure and weld the two longer legs together so the resulting assembly is 61’6” long.
#Weld the 6’ piece of rebar between the ends of the two shorter legs so that side is 61’6” long, too.
#Weld (3) 20’ pieces of #4 rebar into an approximately 60’ length of rebar.
#Center the 60’ piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld one end at the center of one end of the rectangle.
#Position the 1’1” piece of rebar across the rectangle to support the free end of the 60’ assembly.
#Weld the short piece to the three long ones.
[[File:Rebar Assembly for Retaining wall.png|thumb|600px|center]]
====Preparing the Concrete Form====
This is a really long form - 62 feet. You don't want to put it together ahead of time and try to carry it anywhere! What you ''do'' want to do is make sure you have all the pieces you will need cut and reserved against the time you will be setting the forms up.

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(8) 2"x6"x16' boards
*(6) Pieces of 2x4 or 2x6 scrap for splicing.
*Measuring tape
*Pencil
*Saw
''Steps to do''
#Measure and mark 18" from the end of (2) 2x6x16' boards
#Cut the two 18" pieces and mark them "form ends".
#Set aside the 6 16' boards, the 14'6" boards, the form ends, and all the scrap pieces in a reserve pile.

====Setting the Concrete Form====

==CEB Columns==

[[http://ww2.unhabitat.org/programmes/housingpolicy/Images/PDF.gif|UN CEB PDF]]

[[File:Hab_Lab_Coursework_Columns.png]]

==CEB Arches==

[[http://ww2.unhabitat.org/programmes/housingpolicy/documents/Vault.pdf|UN Vaults PDF]]

[[http://www.amazon.com/Concrete-Hardness-Hammer-HT-225A-Portable/dp/B0049DDJCK/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1317915942&sr=8-6|Hardness Test Hammer]] for quality assurance

==CEB Floors==

[[http://www.velacreations.com/cebfloors.html|CEB Floor Instructions]]

==Insulated Roof==

# 16 11-member 2x6x16' frames
# a layer of tyvek
# a layer of lathe, mounted diagonally about 18" apart
# a layer of hay bales surrounded and around 2x12 spacers
# 16 11-member 2x4x16' frames
# agricultural roof panel on top and sides

Frames are built with one 16' beam on each end of 9 other 16' beams laid on 24" centers. These roof frames can be built quite quickly at any time labor is available, preferably ahead of time so that they can be installed as soon as the columns are ready to be covered.

==Super Insulated Walls==

2.5 foot thick wall.

4x6x12 bricks laid on the 12x4" side in standard wall layup, two walls outside surfaces 2.5' apart.

With air space left on either side, bales are stacked in the center of the wall, creating super insulation between the interior and exterior.

==Heating the HabLab==

I propose a [[http://www.heatkit.com Heatkit]] masonry furnace kit, surrounded by CEB

File:Hab Lab Coursework Retaining Wall.png

2011-10-18T19:04:55Z

DavidIAm: A foot thick wall coursing plan used for outer walls (inside and external facing) and the retaining wall.

A foot thick wall coursing plan used for outer walls (inside and external facing) and the retaining wall.

File:Hab Lab Coursework Interior Walls.png

2011-10-18T19:04:09Z

DavidIAm: Stretcher bond walls for interior of hablab

Stretcher bond walls for interior of hablab

File:Hab Lab Coursework Columns.png

2011-10-18T19:03:43Z

DavidIAm: Coursework plan for the CEB columns in the hablab

Coursework plan for the CEB columns in the hablab

Hab Lab

2011-10-13T01:41:33Z

DavidIAm: /* Insulated Roof */

The need for all-weather housing to shelter year-round members of the community, located where summers can be unpleasantly hot and winters unpleasantly cold, can be met with superinsulated designs. Here we will examine some possible options and our progress in bring them into existence. Planning tools, instructions, modifications, etc. will be included.

The [[Hab Lab Design Gallery|Design Page]] is a good place to see what has been offered and to post any of your own great ideas. More ideas are great for everybody!

==Survey & Design==
The area on the property for the first group habitation was on a noticeable slope. OSE staff members worked with a home-made water level to take measurements over a 100' square area.

How to make a water level: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nAcT_1T25LM

Ideas submitted for this project are located on the [[Hab Lab Design Gallery]] page.

===Building Orientation===

==Planning==

===Kitchen/Bath Water===

===Utility/Storage Area===

===Heating===
====Source Material====
http://dnr.mo.gov/pubs/pub781.pdf

==Site Preparation==

The Hab Lab is designed to be supported by columns built of CEB (Compressed Earth Block)which are constructed on a reinforced concrete pad. Due to the slope of our site, we designed a lowered section which requires a low retaining wall. Included here are instructions for preparing the site with adequate footings.

Here is a picture with a preliminary excavation layout for the column pad sites and the retaining wall in the Hab Lab.
*When you are laying out the excavation site, be sure to add 5' in each direction for the excavator to work to.

[[File:HabLab Excavation Layout.png|thumb|800 px|center]]
This levels diagram is from our theoretical measurements - we actually wound up with a 2' drop, not a 2'8" drop. That will make only a minor difference in raising the building - changing the size of the retaining wall and removing one or two CEB's at the top of the lower columns to maintain the planned roof pitch.
[[File:Levels Diagram for Hab Lab Site.png|thumb|800 px|center]]

==Foundations & Column Slabs==

===Laying out the Hab Lab excavation site to be square===
''Collect equipment and supplies needed''
*Blueprint of site plan
*(2) 100’ Measuring tapes
*4 3-4’ stakes
*Hammer
*Bright spray paint
''Steps for Staking out the excavation site.''
#Choose a spot approximately 5 feet to the North and 5 feet to the West of the area to be excavated.
#Pound in a stake and spray paint the top foot or two of it.
#Measure due East a distance 10’ longer than the foundation width (total 67’).
#Place and paint another stake.
#Calculate a distance 10’ longer than the foundation length (total 62’).
#Calculate the diagonal measurement of the excavation site [Length(squared) x Width(squared) = Diagonal(squared)] (91'4").
#Measure due South from the Northwest stake the distance calculated in step 6.
#Set the second tape measure on the Northeast stake and measure the diagonal calculated in step 7 going Southwest.
#Set your third stake where the two measured lengths meet each other.
#Paint the stake.
#Measure due South from the Northeast stake the distance calculated in step 6.
#Set the second tape measure on the Northwest stake and measure the diagonal calculated in step 7 going Southeast.
#Set your fouth stake where the two measured lengths meet each other.
#Paint the stake.

*With the site leveled, the foundation holes for the column slabs must be laid out.
*After excavation, the stone fill for the foundation goes into the holes.
*At the same time, the 6" stone floor foundation is spread.

===Concrete forms and rebar reinforcing assemblies===
These can be built well ahead of need whenever volunteers are available.
*You could set up an assembly line effect to do them all at once with several people working together.
*An individual might do one unit at a time.
*An individual might do all the wood cutting at one time, another do all the rebar cutting at another time, another do all the rebar bending at another time.
*A couple of people might work together to get some wooden forms assembled once the pieces are cut, another time, a couple of people might work together to get some rebar assemblies welded.

The following step-by-step instructions are provided for building the forms and the reinforcing rebar assemblies.

[[https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=14oCxZUjs09wGuvaL4QTAII6hRxQpy20TKv7skH3INRWAVlXqtgdrh0D2ggtl&hl=en Assembly sheet for column pad forms]]

[[https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=1_hf2n-l9rCiEss45ZC8ogtMpeQki9fCoYIFdkD5x3lCOwjGh7Gknr-POJrNB&hl=en Rebar plan for column footings]]

===Laying out the locations for the forms on top of the foundation stone===
Once the form and rebar assemblies are built and the foundation stone is in place, the string site plan lay-out must be set up for placing the forms properly over their (now invisible) foundations. If you set your hole locating strings far enough out that the excavation didn't disturb them, this will be simple. It will be even easier if you rolled up your strings before the hole excavation got done and saved them. (See comments below!)

''Collect equipment and supplies needed''
*Blueprint of site plan
*100' tape measure
*Pre-placed marking stakes around outside of foundation site.
*Rolled up pre-used string balls from foundation hole layout
''Steps for Laying out Column Pad Form locations.''
#Measure to check that all pre-placed marking stakes are properly positioned.
#If any are missing or misplaced, replace or reposition them as needed.
#Unroll and retie the strings to their corresponding stakes across the foundation site .

Here's what the layout over the stone should look like.
[[File:HabLab Column Pad Form Layout.png|thumb|600 px|center]]

We had a great plan for this - we would set our stakes out first to mark the hole edges at 4'x4', save the strings and move the stakes in by 6" to 3'x3' for the setting the pad forms.

However, when we tried it in real life - Well...
*We lost a lot of our stakes during the excavation.
*We found the holes tended to come out bigger than we had intended them to be.
*And once the stone was laid over the site, we couldn't see where the foundation holes were located!
We wound up remeasuring and resetting most of the stakes for laying out the pad site grid.
*We dug stone out of two of corners to find the edges of the foundation holes.
*We remeasured and reset corner marking stakes inside those edges.
*We retriangulated with the diagonals to assure the foundation square.
*And we remeasured and reset stakes along all the edges.

So we've rewritten the foundation lay-out plans as they are currently posted. In the current version, we set the stakes at the 3'x3' points to start with so they don't need to be moved. We also emphasized setting them firmly - and safely outside the excavation area.

===Setting the column pad forms===
''Collect equipment and supplies needed''
*Supplies
**16 Pre-built column pad forms
**80 form stakes (we used 2"x2"x18" wooden stakes)
*Equipment
**Heavy Hammer(s)
**4'spirit Level
**Water level
**tape measure
''Steps to place Column Pad forms''
#Use with the center pad site on the upper level as the reference pad.
#Set a pre-built column pad form in place under the string lines with the inside of the forms under the strings.
#Drive two form stakes next to the outside of one side and one on each of the other three sides. They will need to sit deep enough that the tops of the stakes will be level with (or lower than) the top of the form.
#Level the form.
##Screw one of the stakes (on the side with two) to the side of the form so that the form sits 1/2" above the gravel level. Be sure that the top of the stake is level with (or lower than) the top of the form.
##Use the spirit level to set this side of the form level and screw it in position.
##Use the spirit level to set the opposite side of the form at the same level.
##Check the level on the other two sides and screw them in place.
#Use the water level to set the first level on each of the other pads on the upper level.
#Repeat the remainder of the leveling steps for each form.
#Use the water level to set the level of the center form in the lower level at 24" lower than the upper level pads.
#Complete the leveling steps for this form.
#Use the center form on the lower level for a reference form to set and level the remaining lower level column pad forms.

[[File:Setting Column Pad Forms Diagram.png|thumb|600 px|center]]

===Preparing Column Pad Forms for Reinforced Concrete===
Collect equipment and supplies needed
*Supplies
**16 Pre-built column pad rebar assemblies
**64 rebar chairs
*Equipment
**Rake(s)
**shovel
**tape measure
#Use a rake and shovel to remove about 2" of stone from the inside of the form. (until is 6" deep)
#Pack removed stone around outside of forms to create a fully enclosed 6" deep form.
#Use one prebuilt column pad rebar assembly for each column pad site.
#Center the rebar assembly with 3” gap between assembly and form wall on every side.
#Set rebar chairs under corners of prebuilt column pad rebar assemblies.-Put a stone or some gravel under the chairs if needed to center the rebar so it will sit at about the middle of the finished slab (3" off the floor of the form).

[[File:Preparing Column Pad Sites for Concrete Pouring.png|thumb|600 px|center]]

==Concrete Work==
We are preparing to do the big concrete pour. Using the FreeMind mind map model, this is the node that outlines the dependencies so we can be ready for that. Following sections include instructions for accomplishing them.
[[File:Dependencies for Getting Floors Poured.png|thumb|800px|center]]
Here is the planning layout for the concrete - which we are planning to do in one great big pour. We'll let you know how it goes!
[[File:HabLab Concrete Forms Layout.png|800px|center]]

===Insulated Outside Wall Support Slabs===
We are planning to put reinforced concrete the full 3' width of the Column Support Pads all the way around the outside of the building. They will be 3-1/2" (2x4 lumber size) deep and will support the two CEB walls that enclose the hay bale insulation. Rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.

====Preparing the rebar reinforcement assemblies====
Rebar Assembly for 13’ Outside Wall pads (make 11 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’6” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 6’4” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 12’6” by 2’6” dimensions.
#Measure and cut (1) 20’ piece of #4 rebar to 12’7” in length.
#Center the 12’7” piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld it into place.
[[File:Rebar for outside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

Rebar Assembly for 9’6” Outside Wall pads (make 2 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 4’7” from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’6” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 4’7” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 9’ by 2’6” dimensions.
#Measure and cut (1) 20’ piece of #4 rebar to 9’1” in length.
#Center the 9’1” piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld it into place.
[[File:Rebar for 9.5' outside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

Rebar Assembly for 7' Outside Wall pads (make 2 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 3’4” from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’6” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 3’4” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 6’6” by 2’6” dimensions.
#Measure and cut (1) 20’ piece of #4 rebar to 6'7" in length.
#Center the 6'7" piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld it into place.
[[File:Rebar for 7' outside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

====Preparing the concrete forms====
Our pouring plan requires these forms relating to the outside wall construction. For those wall pads that are part of our interior pads, additional forms are in other sections. If you are not pouring large interior pads, you will need to adjust the number of interior forms.

Exterior Forms for 13' Wall slabs. (make 10 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(2) 2"x4"x7' pine studs
*(1) piece of scrap lumber,
*(4) 3" screws
*Driver
''Steps to do:''
#Start two screws into the flat side of each end of the piece of scrap lumber.
#Butt the two 7' boards end to end
#Lay the piece of scrap lumber over the seam butt joint.
#Be sure the narrow sides of the boards are lined up evenly with each other.
#Drive the screws in completely to hold the boards in line.

Interior Forms for 13' Wall slabs. (make 5 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(2) 2"x4"x7' pine studs
*Measuring tape
*Pencil
*Saw
*(4) 3" screws
*Driver
''Steps to do:''
#Measure, mark, and cut one board to be 6' long.
#Start two screws into the flat side of each end of the 1' piece of scrap lumber.
#Butt the 6' piece with the other 7' board end to end
#Lay the piece of scrap lumber over the seam butt joint.
#Be sure the narrow sides of the boards are lined up evenly with each other.
#Drive the screws in completely to hold the boards in line.

Forms for Wall slabs on split-level section

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(6) 2"x4"x7' pine studs
*(4) 2"x4"x10' pine studs
*Measuring tape
*Pencil
*Saw
''Steps to do:''
#Measure, mark, and cut (2) 7' boards to be 6' long.
#Measure, mark, and cut (2) 10' boards to be 9'6" long.
#You will use the other boards uncut.

[[File:Exterior Wall Form Boards.png|thumb|600px|center]]

====Setting the forms====

===Narrow Wall Support Slabs===
We will support and stabilize the interior CEB walls with a 12" wide x 3-1/2" deep concrete slab. Rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.

====Preparing Rebar reinforcement assemblies====
Rebar Assembly for all 12” interior wall slabs

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(10) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 3’4” from one end.
#Bend 180⁰ the rebar with a 3” radius.
#Measure and mark so another 180⁰ with a 3” radius will produce 6’6” long assemblies.
#Cut the extra rebar (about 7’) off, leaving enough to tack weld each assembly together.

#Measure and mark (4) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 4’4” from the end.
#Bend 180⁰ with a 3” radius.
#Measure and mark so another 180⁰ with a 3” radius will produce 8’6” long assemblies.
#Cut the extra rebar off, leaving enough to tack weld each assembly together.

#Measure and mark (4) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” from the end.
#Bend 180⁰ with a 3” radius.
#Measure and mark so another 180⁰ with a 3” radius will produce 12’6” long assemblies.
#Use scrap cuttings (about 7’ long) to bridge the gap for each of these assemblies.
[[File:Rebar for 1' inside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

====Preparing the Concrete Forms====
These 12" wide slabs will provide a firm foundation on which to build our interior CEB room-dividing walls. Mostly they use the same sizes of forms you used for the outside walls. If you are pouring in small stages, you won't have build more forms because you can reuse the ones from the outside wall slabs. If you are going to pour all the concrete at once, you will need 7 more of the 13' inside form assemblies, 4 more uncut 7' boards, 2 more 7' boards cut to 6' lengths, 6 more boards cut to 9'6", and two boards cut to 9' in length.
Instructions for preparing all of these boards are found above - in the [[#Insulated Outside Wall Support Slabs/Preparing the Concrete Forms|Outside Wall Slabs]] section.

====Setting the Forms====

===Kitchen and Bath Areas===
The Kitchen and Bath Floor Areas both have a potential for receiving noticeable amounts of water. We consider it advisable to pave them both with concrete and include a central drain. Rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.
====Preparing the Rebar Assemblies====
Rebar Assembly for 16’x13’ slabs (make 2 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (4) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” from the end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Cut the long ends to 7’10” long.
#Overlap the short ends of two L-shaped pieces and measure to make a U shaped assembly with 12’6” between the legs.
#Make two of these assemblies.
#Overlap the legs of the U-shaped assemblies to make a rectangle measuring 15’6” x 12’6”
#Measure and cut (5) pieces of #4 rebar to 15’7” long.
#Measure and cut (7) pieces of #4 rebar to 12’7” long.
#Space and position the cut pieces into a 24” grid across the rectangle.
#Weld them into place.
[[File:Rebar for 16x13 slab.png|thumb|600px|center]]

====Preparing the Concrete forms====
Because we are pouring this all at once, we decided to eliminate some complicated form work by including the equipment area and one room in this slab. This will be a big pour of concrete. It requires about 5 cubic yards of concrete. If you have plenty of time and are working in small batches, you can save over a yard of concrete by building the interior wall forms and pouring only wall-support pads - as shown on the layout.

The large slabs are laid between column pads, using 13' interior form assemblies. If you are pouring all at once, you will need two more of these assemblies, one more board cut to 9'6", and a piece of scrap about 3' long to complete the form work for this area. This, of course, assumes that you already have the exterior forms for the exterior wall slabs prepared. Instructions for preparing all of these are above in the [[#Insulated Outside Wall Support Slabs/Preparing the Concrete Forms|Outside Wall Slabs]]
section.
====Setting the Forms====

===Retaining Wall for Lower Level===
Ideas for this wall have been through several iterations. At present (Oct. 10th), we are planning to lay a 6" footer, 18" wide and 62' long. On top of that, we plan to put a 12" thick wall of bitumen-protected CEB. For the concrete footer, rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.
====Preparing the Rebar Assembly====
Rebar Assembly for Retaining wall footer

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(9) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Scrap #4 rebar to make (1) 6’ pieces and (1) 1’1” piece
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 8’ from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 12” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut (1) 6’ and (1) 1’1” piece of #4 rebar.
#Overlap and weld (1) 20’ length of rebar to each leg.
#Measure and weld the two longer legs together so the resulting assembly is 61’6” long.
#Weld the 6’ piece of rebar between the ends of the two shorter legs so that side is 61’6” long, too.
#Weld (3) 20’ pieces of #4 rebar into an approximately 60’ length of rebar.
#Center the 60’ piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld one end at the center of one end of the rectangle.
#Position the 1’1” piece of rebar across the rectangle to support the free end of the 60’ assembly.
#Weld the short piece to the three long ones.
[[File:Rebar Assembly for Retaining wall.png|thumb|600px|center]]
====Preparing the Concrete Form====
This is a really long form - 62 feet. You don't want to put it together ahead of time and try to carry it anywhere! What you ''do'' want to do is make sure you have all the pieces you will need cut and reserved against the time you will be setting the forms up.

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(8) 2"x6"x16' boards
*(6) Pieces of 2x4 or 2x6 scrap for splicing.
*Measuring tape
*Pencil
*Saw
''Steps to do''
#Measure and mark 18" from the end of (2) 2x6x16' boards
#Cut the two 18" pieces and mark them "form ends".
#Set aside the 6 16' boards, the 14'6" boards, the form ends, and all the scrap pieces in a reserve pile.

====Setting the Concrete Form====

==CEB Columns==

[[http://ww2.unhabitat.org/programmes/housingpolicy/Images/PDF.gif|UN CEB PDF]]

==CEB Arches==

[[http://ww2.unhabitat.org/programmes/housingpolicy/documents/Vault.pdf|UN Vaults PDF]]

[[http://www.amazon.com/Concrete-Hardness-Hammer-HT-225A-Portable/dp/B0049DDJCK/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1317915942&sr=8-6|Hardness Test Hammer]] for quality assurance

==CEB Floors==

[[http://www.velacreations.com/cebfloors.html|CEB Floor Instructions]]

==Insulated Roof==

# 16 11-member 2x6x16' frames
# a layer of tyvek
# a layer of lathe, mounted diagonally about 18" apart
# a layer of hay bales surrounded and around 2x12 spacers
# 16 11-member 2x4x16' frames
# agricultural roof panel on top and sides

Frames are built with one 16' beam on each end of 9 other 16' beams laid on 24" centers. These roof frames can be built quite quickly at any time labor is available, preferably ahead of time so that they can be installed as soon as the columns are ready to be covered.

==Super Insulated Walls==

2.5 foot thick wall.

4x6x12 bricks laid on the 12x4" side in standard wall layup, two walls outside surfaces 2.5' apart.

With air space left on either side, bales are stacked in the center of the wall, creating super insulation between the interior and exterior.

==Heating the HabLab==

I propose a [[http://www.heatkit.com Heatkit]] masonry furnace kit, surrounded by CEB

Hab Lab

2011-10-06T17:23:50Z

DavidIAm: /* Super Insulated Walls */

Hab Lab

2011-10-06T17:22:04Z

DavidIAm: /* Insulated Roof */

Hab Lab

2011-10-06T16:22:23Z

DavidIAm: /* CEB Columns */

Hab Lab

2011-10-06T16:16:31Z

DavidIAm: /* Heating the HabLab */

CEB Catenary Vaults

2011-09-30T12:59:21Z

DavidIAm:

This is a discussion of the safety factors involved in using CEB vaults.

Visualize a catenary arch formed between two 4 foot high 2.5' square columns on 16 foot centers

A catenary using equation y=-5*cosh(x/5)+17 spans 13.5; feet at y=4, is 11.5 feet wide at y=6, and peaks at y=12. (cosh is Hyberbolic Cosine)

The thrust from this force is tangential to the 4 foot mark, about 18-19 degrees off vertical, transferring the force more or less to the center of the 2.5 foot column four feet down.

134 bricks form the arch, with a max angle of about 5 degrees across the top, and decreasing from there.

134 bricks @ 30 pounds a piece, divided by two for each direction is just over a ton of downward force from the arch alone. The surface of the brick has 0.5 square feet, or 72 square inches. 2010 pounds / 72 inches = 27.9 PSI

The infill (the wall that will be above the arch) has volume of 30 cubic feet approx, which at a density of 180 pounds per cubic foot (6 bricks) would translate onto the arch up to an additional 180*30, or 5400 pounds, divided by two = 2700 raising the maximum possible pressure on the bottom brick to 4800 pounds, at 72 square inches makes 67 psi.

The nominal minimum CEB strength per wiki page is something like 1200 PSI, giving us a safety factor of 18. Or, to say, we could add an additional 4800*2*18=172800 pounds, or 86.4 tons or 960 cubic feet compressed earth or 5760 bricks two thick above that 16 foot span, which would be one hundred and twenty FEET straight up. (visualize a 120 foot tower of bricks layed flat, two thick (4" x12" facing out) over this 16 foot wide arch, before we were in serious danger of it failing.

Suffice it to say, our bricks are plenty strong enough to build structures even several stories tall using this kind of brick and method using direct vault construction.

Were we to use a groin vault design, on another 16 center offset, 134 * 16= 2144 bricks. There are about 40 cubic feet taken out for the cross vault which at 6 per foot gives 1904 bricks, which weigh 57120 pounds. Divided by four (for each of the four columns) puts the load on the corner at 14280, divided 72 square inches gives a psi of 198.33. 1200/120 = 10 - a reasonable safety factor.

Put compressed earth density fill atop that...

8.5 high by 14.5 by 16 long is volume 1972 cf, volume of the face is 85 square feet time 16 is 1360 cf. one way vault fill is 612 cubic feet for the span.the vault takes about 30% out (36 face feet fill vs. 85 face feet of vault) so I'll estimate 184 cf * 180 pounds per foot = 33048 divided by four corners 8262 pounds. That raises the corner load to 22542 pounds, over 72 inches makes 313 psi, or a 3.8 compression strength safety factor if the bricks only have 1200 psi of strength - and thats the worst case - that load isn't transferred within the fill *beyond* the arch itself!

The corners would risk failure upon the addition of 3.8 times 33048 = 125582 pounds *to the roof* - that would be 4186 more bricks worth of weight - enough to create a CEB floor using the *narrow* face of the bricks *on top* of the room almost 5 layers deep.

If the PSI of the bricks was only 1200.

This is about centering from an engineering book: [[http://books.google.com/books?id=EdsKAQAAIAAJ&lpg=PA792&ots=wXS0A2lfuL&dq=types%20of%20arch%20centering&pg=PA791#v=onepage&q&f=false|American civil engineers' handbook Page 41]]

Keep the thrust line in the center third of the arch - but doesn't say how to calculate that line. [[http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=loaded%20catenary%20arches&source=web&cd=5&sqi=2&ved=0CEEQFjAE&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.earth-auroville.com%2Fmaintenance%2Fuploaded_pics%2F02-Stability-notions.doc&ei=fhGFToXVKMe4twf5gfE-&usg=AFQjCNGv2HsqSGgmP9wAlgxFFxL3mjrC9A&sig2=Jwsm3guiPkvyeyENL4yn4w&cad=rja]]

[[http://www.buildingwithbrick.org/Cyclopedia-of-Architecture-Carpentry-and-Building-a-General-Reference-V-04/Theory-of-Arches.html theory of arches]]

[[http://www.buildingwithbrick.org/Cyclopedia-of-Architecture-Carpentry-and-Building-a-General-Reference-V-04/Voussoir-Arches.html On PSI and loading]]

[[http://books.google.com/books?id=9PU4AAAAMAAJ&lpg=PA140&ots=LxpcCq5i05&dq=arch%20haunch%20load&pg=PA136#v=onepage&q=arch%20haunch%20load&f=false Calculating Pressures]]

CEB Catenary Vaults

2011-09-30T01:00:28Z

DavidIAm:

CEB Catenary Vaults

2011-09-30T00:57:08Z

DavidIAm:

CEB Catenary Vaults

2011-09-30T00:55:04Z

DavidIAm:

CEB Catenary Vaults

2011-09-30T00:43:56Z

DavidIAm:

CEB Catenary Vaults

2011-09-29T21:31:52Z

DavidIAm:

CEB Catenary Vaults

2011-09-29T21:06:57Z

DavidIAm: Created page with "This is a discussion of the safety factors involved in using CEB vaults. Visualize a catenary arch formed between two 4 foot high 2.5' square columns on A catenary using equat..."

This is a discussion of the safety factors involved in using CEB vaults.

Visualize a catenary arch formed between two 4 foot high 2.5' square columns on

A catenary using equation y=-5*cosh(x/5)+17 spans 13.5; feet at y=4, is 11.5 feet wide at y=6, and peaks at y=12. (cosh is Hyberbolic Cosine)

The thrust from this force is tangential to the 4 foot mark, about 18-19 degrees off vertical, transferring the force more or less to the center of the 2.5 foot column four feet down.

134 bricks form the arch, with a max angle of about 5 degrees across the top, and decreasing from there.

134 bricks @ 30 pounds a piece, divided by two for each direction is just over a ton of downward force from the arch alone. The surface of the brick has 0.5 square feet, or 72 square inches. 2010 pounds / 72 inches = 27.9 PSI

The infill (the wall that will be above the arch) has volume of 30 cubic feet approx, which at a density of 180 pounds per cubic foot (6 bricks) would translate onto the arch up to an additional 180*30, or 5400 pounds, divided by two = 2700 raising the maximum possible pressure on the bottom brick to 4800 pounds, at 72 square inches makes 67 psi.

The nominal minimum CEB strength per wiki page is something like 1200 PSI, giving us a safety factor of 18. Or, to say, we could add an additional 4800*2*18=172800 pounds, or 86.4 tons or 960 cubic feet compressed earth or 5760 bricks two thick above that 16 foot span, which would be one hundred and twenty FEET straight up. (visualize a 120 foot tower of bricks layed flat, two thick (4" x12" facing out) over this 16 foot wide arch, before we were in serious danger of it failing.

Suffice it to say, our bricks are plenty strong enough to build structures even several stories tall using this kind of brick and method using direct vault construction.

Were we to use a groin vault design, on another 16 center offset, 134 * 16= 2144 bricks. There are about 40 cubic feet taken out for the cross vault which at 6 per foot gives 1904 bricks, which weigh 57120 pounds. Divided by four (for each of the four columns) puts the load on the corner at 14280, divided 72 square inches gives a psi of 198.33. 1200/120 = 10 - a reasonable safety factor.

Put compressed earth density fill atop that...

8.5 high by 14.5 by 16 long is volume 1972 cf, volume of the face is 85 square feet time 16 is 1360 cf. one way vault fill is 612 cubic feet for the span.the vault takes about 30% out (36 face feet fill vs. 85 face feet of vault) so I'll estimate 184 cf * 180 pounds per foot = 33048 divided by four corners 8262 pounds. That raises the corner load to 22542 pounds, over 72 inches makes 313 psi, or a 3.8 compression strength safety factor if the bricks only have 1200 psi of strength - and thats the worst case - that load isn't transferred within the fill *beyond* the arch itself!

The corners would risk failure upon the addition of 3.8 times 33048 = 125582 pounds *to the roof* - that would be 4186 more bricks worth of weight - enough to create a CEB floor using the *narrow* face of the bricks *on top* of the room almost 5 layers deep.

If the PSI of the bricks was only 1200.

OSE Shop 2011/Supplies/Acquisitions/Rebar

2011-09-19T13:19:35Z

DavidIAm:

Marcin has a source, a local metalworker, for obtaining fairly raw steel. He obtained a quote for 600 20' #4 Rebar Delivered, he said -> Sonar got the quote from Sweiger -$3750 total delivered

the local Menards, in St. Joseph, Missouri quoted

600pcs of 20' #4 is $4,176
tax $321.55
Delivery is $77.95
Total $4575.50

The local Lowes, in St. Joseph, Missouri quoted

$90 for delivery, plus $4500 for the rebar.

Naturally, we went with the Sweiger source.

- David

OSE Shop 2011/Supplies/Acquisitions/Rebar

2011-09-19T13:17:26Z

DavidIAm:

OSE Shop 2011/Supplies/Acquisitions/Rebar

2011-09-19T13:17:06Z

DavidIAm:

OSE Shop 2011

2011-09-18T17:31:03Z

DavidIAm: /* Materials and Budget */

{{breadcrumb|Housing and construction}}

=Introduction=
This year, we are putting our construction tools ([[CEB Press]], [[LifeTrac|Tractor]], [[Rototiller|Soil Pulverizer]], and [[Power Cube]]) through the most rigorous field test to date: the construction of 10 living units and a 3,000 square foot fabrication facility here at Factor E Farm. We have already achieved the highest brick pressing rates of any open source model (slide: 16 bricks/minute, 5,000 bricks/day), and now we are aiming to complete the package by achieving $5 per square foot construction costs while remaining within industry standard construction schedules. Our goal is to improve dramatically the efficiency of natural building, far surpassing the benchmarks of earthbag, cordwood, strawbale, cob, rammed earth, adobe, earthship, and papercrete techniques while keeping the ecological footprint to bare minimums. We will publish a full energy accounting report, including embodied energy estimates for materials and the “joules per day” of both biological and electromechanical systems.

So far as we know, this will be a global first: the highest embodied energy efficiencies and the highest construction efficiencies at the lowest cost and with the least environmental impact. Our aim with This Last Mile is to lower the barriers to creating sustainable human settlements by providing access to powerful, low-cost, open source tools that anyone can use to build and transform their environment.

=Updates=

<html>
<iframe width="560" height="349" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed//WOs1OftBCx8" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
</html>

=Technical Implementation=

A 12 cell (16'x16') workshop for prototyping and production runs of open source ecology machines

Steps taken to recycle and use a roof structure built as a prototype are shown on the [[OSE Shop 2011/OSE Mill Shed 2011]] page.

'''See also [[Hybrid CEB-Straw Superinsulated Housing Plans]]'''

See also the prototypical [[CEB Living Unit]]

See also [[Factor_e_Farm_Infrastructure_Buildout_2011]]

See also [[Category:Hab Lab]]

=Instructions At This Stage=
[[Workshop Planning Activities]]

[[Site Preparation Instructions]]

[[https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=1DZGHOq5_jYsO4SwlsuEU37nDyT_9pnnM3C2oKWiyMbLQwFtXj5GdIEhpIhYv&hl=en Detailed stakeout of building plan]]

[[https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=1IMWtpzgw8_tln1n1pxUDg1rOmf5rnL7XF1qQZ2vroV-MD2r3fk_hTvPfnjxE&hl=en Excavate and fill column pad holes]]

[[https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=14oCxZUjs09wGuvaL4QTAII6hRxQpy20TKv7skH3INRWAVlXqtgdrh0D2ggtl&hl=en Assembly sheet for column pad forms]]

[[https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=1_hf2n-l9rCiEss45ZC8ogtMpeQki9fCoYIFdkD5x3lCOwjGh7Gknr-POJrNB&hl=en Rebar plan for column footings]]

[[File:Column Pad form layout.png|thumb]]

[[File:Rebar_assembly_for_supply_shed_21x21_slab.png|thumb]]
[[File:Rebar_assembly_for_corner_16x21_slab.png|thumb]]
[[File:Rebar_assembly_for_edge_16x21_slab.png|thumb]]
[[File:Rebar_assembly_for_edge_16x16_slab.png|thumb]]
[[File:Rebar_assembly_for_interior_16x16_slab.png|thumb]]
[[File:Rebar_assembly_for_corner_16x16_slab.png|thumb]]
[[File:Rebar_assembly_for_21x21_corner_slab.png|thumb]]
[[File:Electrical_Panel_Layout.png|thumb]]
[[File:Electrical_120_outlets_Layout.png|thumb]]

[[OSE Roof Instructions]]

=Future Instructions=

Forms and Concrete Work

Building CEB Columns

Enclosing the Workshop

CAD Room - Insulation, Raised Floor

Electrical Power in the Workshop

Hydraulic and Pneumatic Plumbing

Water Collection and Distribution

Storm Water Management

Loading Dock

Driveway/Parking Considerations

=Design Model=

Youtube quick Tour here [[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gsowoMjSy2I http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gsowoMjSy2I]]

<html>
<iframe width="560" height="349" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed//gsowoMjSy2I" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
</html>

Sketchup model: [[http://sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/details?mid=afe75b01802fcadd79276599ab9c72d http://sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/details?mid=461634956aef7a94d79276599ab9c72d]]

Embed:
<html>
<iframe src="http://sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/mini?mid=461634956aef7a94d79276599ab9c72d&etyp=sw&width=400&height=300" frameborder="0" scrolling="no" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" width="400" height="300"></iframe>
</html>

Notes for model update
# put tie detail into model for roof beams to roof boxes
# create rebar plan
# reset animation points after model rotation
# generate new animation and walkthrough
# upload to youtube and update wiki

=Construction Plan Mindmap=

[[File:OSE Shop.png|200px|thumb|[[OSE Shop 2011 Mind Map]]]]

Full size here:[[http://opensourceecology.org/w/images/9/9f/OSE_Shop.png]]

Actual Mindmap file here (created with freemind) [[http://dogpawz.com/OSE/OSE%20Shop%20Planning.mm]]

[[Image:OSE_Shop_Planning.png]]

=Supply sources=

Sand & Gravel - Larry McFee - Maysville - 816 724-0736

=Cost Estimates=

[https://spreadsheets.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0ApN4BXK1pgnKdGpHMVBKcW5qZ285SGZTNWo0aDFjalE&hl=en_US Spreadsheet]

<html>
<iframe width='800' height='800' frameborder='0' src='https://spreadsheets4.google.com/spreadsheet/pub?key=0ApN4BXK1pgnKdGpHMVBKcW5qZ285SGZTNWo0aDFjalE&output=html&widget=true'></iframe>
</html>

Also see [[Factor_e_Farm_Infrastructure_Buildout_2011]]

=Materials and Budget=

*4 [http://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-2401-22-12-Volt-Li-Ion-Compact/dp/B000WI9CIG/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1311881639&sr=1-1 Milwaukee cordless drills] - $407
*Roof metal - 136 panels, 17' long (3' widths) - 108 for workshop, 22 for material shed, and 6 extra + flashing for clerestory + screws + flashing closure - total $5871
*2x6 lumber, $6.60 - total 396 pieces - total $2802
*Glue, #25 star driver bits, 3" star bit screws, 2 glue guns, furring strips, 2 tie downs - $299
*Trailer rental for lumber - $47

Planned:

*Bulldozing and excavation - $2-3k
*Rebar - [[OSE_Shop_2011_Rebar_Acquisition]]
*Cement trucks -

[[OSE Shop 2011 Materials Planning|Materials Planning Page]]

=Design Notes=

==Loading Dock==

Add a loading dock for easy access to truck bed level deliveries

==Driveway==

Improve and expand the driveway to be smoother, wider, and double-access (pull-through) and have designated parking spots.

==Equipment Room==

Build an equipment room in the storage shed.

This will keeps the noise of the compressor, generator, hydraulic pump, and such away from the shop. Will also provide storage for smaller parts. Piping and conduits carry power in various forms into the shop.

==Expand Shop==

* Moved both last rows of columns out 7.5 feet
* Very moderate cost for 500 additional square feet of space
* Simplifies roof plan.

==Storage/Equipment shed on south end==

Between the shop and the berm

==Use 2x6 for roof boxes==

2x6's cost *half* of what 2x10's cost. We're spending almost $3000 on lumber. Can we save $1500?

This calculator externally:

[http://www.awc.org/calculators/span/calc/timbercalcstyle.asp?species=Southern+Pine&size=2x6&grade=No.+2&member=Rafters+%28Snow+Load%29&deflectionlimit=L%2F180&spacing=24&wet=No&incised=No&liveload=20&snowload=10&deadload=5&submit=Calculate+Maximum+Horizontal+Span#answer]

Indicates that 2x6's on 24" centers can be used for our roof box spans easily if our snow load is less than 10 pounds per square foot (about a foot of snow), and probably are even okay for 10 pounds per square foot.

Note, however, that [http://www.chiefbuildings.com/design/MBMA2006.pdf this table] lists DeKalb county design snow load at 20psf and [http://www.hpj.com/archives/2008/jan08/jan14/Dontunder-designroofsforare.cfm this article] from a Webster county extension agent recommends 25psf total load. See also [http://www.ce.udel.edu/courses/CIEG407/CIEG_407_Protected/Chapter%207%20Snow%20Loads.pdf ASCE snow load calculations] including ridge drift at fig 7-8.

It is my judgement that at least shifting to 2x8's to save cost would be worthwhile.
2 x 6's will work fine, the vast majority of structures use them.

== Stringers ==

(2x6 design for the stringers which support the roof boxes may need to be beefed up. See below.) The first stringer pair has been fabricated and will be load-tested soon.

First Stringer Prototype:

<html><iframe width="300" height="233" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed//K9rgJTTZN6I" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
</html>

=== strength analysis ===
Where columns are on 16x16ft centers, ~256 sq ft of roof is supported on each column, i.e 2560 to 6400 lb (based on assumed total load from 10 psf to 25 psf). This amount of load is transferred from roof boxes to columns through East-West stringers and North-South purlins. If stringers and purlins share the load equally, each 16-foot span must carry 1280 to 3200 lb. Worst case span/load is over CAD room where columns are on 21ft centers rather than 16ft.

Wood beam design theory [http://www2.nau.edu/~dsl/egr437/class/woodbeams/design/bending.html# here]. Typical design formulas will tell us to use deep beams for adequate ''stiffness'': otherwise the beam will bend "too much" (1/2" to 1" at midspan according to common design rules). Bending too much might damage the roof covering but is not a dangerous collapse condition. Three other important design criteria are
* ''bearing:'' will the wood crush where it bears on the support (this is a concern not only where the beams bear on the columns but also where boxes rest on purlins)
* ''shear:'' will the beam shear apart near its supporting pier
* ''bending strength:'' will the tension in the bottom edge of the beam tear it apart
Either of the last two failures will cause immediate structural collapse.

=== Truss option ===

A simple inverted kingpost truss using steel-bar tension members, added to the 2x6 stringer design, may work well.
[[File:TrussSketch.png]]

=== I-joist option ===
According to [http://opensourceecology.org/w/images/e/e7/IJoist.pdf this guide] I estimate a 12-inch deep PRI-50 IJoist would carry 3200 lb @ 1" deflection (L/180) across a 16ft span.

Very loose cost estimate: $2.00/linear foot. Approx 375 linear ft in 5 stringer sets + 280 linear feet in 16 purlin beams = $1310.

=Technical Notes=

==Roof Tie==

The use of Simpson Strong Tie model 2.5 can bind the roof panels to the rafter boards in such a way as to bind the roof to the rafters. We will use 100 of them, tying all of the edges and middles of the roof boxes to the rafters.

==Foundations==

The site is a heavy clay soil with a calculated bearing capability of between 1000 and 4000 pounds per square foot. The foundation design goal is to bring the building static load below 1000 PSF, so that the possible live load (gantry crane loaded, snow on the roof) even doubling the load will keep the foundation pressure beneath 2000 PSF.

[[File:OSE_Pillar_Foundation_Justification.png|thumb]]

[[File:OSE_Wall_Foundation_Justification.png|thumb]]

[[File:InterfaceAssembly.png|thumb]]

[[Category:OSE Shop]]

=Work documentation=
==Preparation==
[[File:8-20-21_Goals.png|500px|thumb]]

How to make a water level: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nAcT_1T25LM

How to lay a brick: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lORIZ1shRIM

Instruction pages for each step of the project are being prepared and will be posted periodically as time and availability allow.

==Components==
*Roof sections
*Roofing materials - Chris
*Stringers for workshop -
<html><iframe width="300" height="233" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed//K9rgJTTZN6I" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe></html>

=Earth Compaction=

See [[Earth Compaction]]

[[Category:FeF Infrastructure]]

[[Category:OSE_Shop_2011]]

OSE Shop 2011/Supplies/Acquisitions/Rebar

2011-09-18T17:29:45Z

DavidIAm: Created page with "Marcin has a source, a local metalworker, for obtaining fairly raw steel. He obtained a quote for 600 20' #4 Rebar Delivered, he said -> Sonar got the quote from Sweiger -$3750 ..."

OSE Shop 2011

2011-09-16T05:05:31Z

DavidIAm:

{{breadcrumb|Housing and construction}}

=Introduction=
This year, we are putting our construction tools ([[CEB Press]], [[LifeTrac|Tractor]], [[Rototiller|Soil Pulverizer]], and [[Power Cube]]) through the most rigorous field test to date: the construction of 10 living units and a 3,000 square foot fabrication facility here at Factor E Farm. We have already achieved the highest brick pressing rates of any open source model (slide: 16 bricks/minute, 5,000 bricks/day), and now we are aiming to complete the package by achieving $5 per square foot construction costs while remaining within industry standard construction schedules. Our goal is to improve dramatically the efficiency of natural building, far surpassing the benchmarks of earthbag, cordwood, strawbale, cob, rammed earth, adobe, earthship, and papercrete techniques while keeping the ecological footprint to bare minimums. We will publish a full energy accounting report, including embodied energy estimates for materials and the “joules per day” of both biological and electromechanical systems.

So far as we know, this will be a global first: the highest embodied energy efficiencies and the highest construction efficiencies at the lowest cost and with the least environmental impact. Our aim with This Last Mile is to lower the barriers to creating sustainable human settlements by providing access to powerful, low-cost, open source tools that anyone can use to build and transform their environment.

=Updates=

<html>
<iframe width="560" height="349" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed//WOs1OftBCx8" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
</html>

=Technical Implementation=

A 12 cell (16'x16') workshop for prototyping and production runs of open source ecology machines

Steps taken to recycle and use a roof structure built as a prototype are shown on the [[OSE Shop 2011/OSE Mill Shed 2011]] page.

'''See also [[Hybrid CEB-Straw Superinsulated Housing Plans]]'''

See also the prototypical [[CEB Living Unit]]

See also [[Factor_e_Farm_Infrastructure_Buildout_2011]]

See also [[Category:Hab Lab]]

=Instructions At This Stage=
[[Workshop Planning Activities]]

[[Site Preparation Instructions]]

[[https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=1DZGHOq5_jYsO4SwlsuEU37nDyT_9pnnM3C2oKWiyMbLQwFtXj5GdIEhpIhYv&hl=en Detailed stakeout of building plan]]

[[https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=1IMWtpzgw8_tln1n1pxUDg1rOmf5rnL7XF1qQZ2vroV-MD2r3fk_hTvPfnjxE&hl=en Excavate and fill column pad holes]]

[[https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=14oCxZUjs09wGuvaL4QTAII6hRxQpy20TKv7skH3INRWAVlXqtgdrh0D2ggtl&hl=en Assembly sheet for column pad forms]]

[[https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=1_hf2n-l9rCiEss45ZC8ogtMpeQki9fCoYIFdkD5x3lCOwjGh7Gknr-POJrNB&hl=en Rebar plan for column footings]]

[[File:Column Pad form layout.png|thumb]]

[[File:Rebar_assembly_for_supply_shed_21x21_slab.png|thumb]]
[[File:Rebar_assembly_for_corner_16x21_slab.png|thumb]]
[[File:Rebar_assembly_for_edge_16x21_slab.png|thumb]]
[[File:Rebar_assembly_for_edge_16x16_slab.png|thumb]]
[[File:Rebar_assembly_for_interior_16x16_slab.png|thumb]]
[[File:Rebar_assembly_for_corner_16x16_slab.png|thumb]]
[[File:Rebar_assembly_for_21x21_corner_slab.png|thumb]]
[[File:Electrical_Panel_Layout.png|thumb]]
[[File:Electrical_120_outlets_Layout.png|thumb]]

[[OSE Roof Instructions]]

=Future Instructions=

Forms and Concrete Work

Building CEB Columns

Enclosing the Workshop

CAD Room - Insulation, Raised Floor

Electrical Power in the Workshop

Hydraulic and Pneumatic Plumbing

Water Collection and Distribution

Storm Water Management

Loading Dock

Driveway/Parking Considerations

=Design Model=

Youtube quick Tour here [[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gsowoMjSy2I http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gsowoMjSy2I]]

<html>
<iframe width="560" height="349" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed//gsowoMjSy2I" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
</html>

Sketchup model: [[http://sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/details?mid=afe75b01802fcadd79276599ab9c72d http://sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/details?mid=461634956aef7a94d79276599ab9c72d]]

Embed:
<html>
<iframe src="http://sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/mini?mid=461634956aef7a94d79276599ab9c72d&etyp=sw&width=400&height=300" frameborder="0" scrolling="no" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" width="400" height="300"></iframe>
</html>

Notes for model update
# put tie detail into model for roof beams to roof boxes
# create rebar plan
# reset animation points after model rotation
# generate new animation and walkthrough
# upload to youtube and update wiki

=Construction Plan Mindmap=

[[File:OSE Shop.png|200px|thumb|[[OSE Shop 2011 Mind Map]]]]

Full size here:[[http://opensourceecology.org/w/images/9/9f/OSE_Shop.png]]

Actual Mindmap file here (created with freemind) [[http://dogpawz.com/OSE/OSE%20Shop%20Planning.mm]]

[[Image:OSE_Shop_Planning.png]]

=Supply sources=

Sand & Gravel - Larry McFee - Maysville - 816 724-0736

=Cost Estimates=

[https://spreadsheets.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0ApN4BXK1pgnKdGpHMVBKcW5qZ285SGZTNWo0aDFjalE&hl=en_US Spreadsheet]

<html>
<iframe width='800' height='800' frameborder='0' src='https://spreadsheets4.google.com/spreadsheet/pub?key=0ApN4BXK1pgnKdGpHMVBKcW5qZ285SGZTNWo0aDFjalE&output=html&widget=true'></iframe>
</html>

Also see [[Factor_e_Farm_Infrastructure_Buildout_2011]]

=Materials and Budget=

*4 [http://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-2401-22-12-Volt-Li-Ion-Compact/dp/B000WI9CIG/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1311881639&sr=1-1 Milwaukee cordless drills] - $407
*Roof metal - 136 panels, 17' long (3' widths) - 108 for workshop, 22 for material shed, and 6 extra + flashing for clerestory + screws + flashing closure - total $5871
*2x6 lumber, $6.60 - total 396 pieces - total $2802
*Glue, #25 star driver bits, 3" star bit screws, 2 glue guns, furring strips, 2 tie downs - $299
*Trailer rental for lumber - $47

Planned:

*Bulldozing and excavation - $2-3k
*Rebar -
*Cement trucks -

[[OSE Shop 2011 Materials Planning|Materials Planning Page]]

=Design Notes=

==Loading Dock==

Add a loading dock for easy access to truck bed level deliveries

==Driveway==

Improve and expand the driveway to be smoother, wider, and double-access (pull-through) and have designated parking spots.

==Equipment Room==

Build an equipment room in the storage shed.

This will keeps the noise of the compressor, generator, hydraulic pump, and such away from the shop. Will also provide storage for smaller parts. Piping and conduits carry power in various forms into the shop.

==Expand Shop==

* Moved both last rows of columns out 7.5 feet
* Very moderate cost for 500 additional square feet of space
* Simplifies roof plan.

==Storage/Equipment shed on south end==

Between the shop and the berm

==Use 2x6 for roof boxes==

2x6's cost *half* of what 2x10's cost. We're spending almost $3000 on lumber. Can we save $1500?

This calculator externally:

[http://www.awc.org/calculators/span/calc/timbercalcstyle.asp?species=Southern+Pine&size=2x6&grade=No.+2&member=Rafters+%28Snow+Load%29&deflectionlimit=L%2F180&spacing=24&wet=No&incised=No&liveload=20&snowload=10&deadload=5&submit=Calculate+Maximum+Horizontal+Span#answer]

Indicates that 2x6's on 24" centers can be used for our roof box spans easily if our snow load is less than 10 pounds per square foot (about a foot of snow), and probably are even okay for 10 pounds per square foot.

Note, however, that [http://www.chiefbuildings.com/design/MBMA2006.pdf this table] lists DeKalb county design snow load at 20psf and [http://www.hpj.com/archives/2008/jan08/jan14/Dontunder-designroofsforare.cfm this article] from a Webster county extension agent recommends 25psf total load. See also [http://www.ce.udel.edu/courses/CIEG407/CIEG_407_Protected/Chapter%207%20Snow%20Loads.pdf ASCE snow load calculations] including ridge drift at fig 7-8.

It is my judgement that at least shifting to 2x8's to save cost would be worthwhile.
2 x 6's will work fine, the vast majority of structures use them.

== Stringers ==

(2x6 design for the stringers which support the roof boxes may need to be beefed up. See below.) The first stringer pair has been fabricated and will be load-tested soon.

First Stringer Prototype:

<html><iframe width="300" height="233" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed//K9rgJTTZN6I" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
</html>

=== strength analysis ===
Where columns are on 16x16ft centers, ~256 sq ft of roof is supported on each column, i.e 2560 to 6400 lb (based on assumed total load from 10 psf to 25 psf). This amount of load is transferred from roof boxes to columns through East-West stringers and North-South purlins. If stringers and purlins share the load equally, each 16-foot span must carry 1280 to 3200 lb. Worst case span/load is over CAD room where columns are on 21ft centers rather than 16ft.

Wood beam design theory [http://www2.nau.edu/~dsl/egr437/class/woodbeams/design/bending.html# here]. Typical design formulas will tell us to use deep beams for adequate ''stiffness'': otherwise the beam will bend "too much" (1/2" to 1" at midspan according to common design rules). Bending too much might damage the roof covering but is not a dangerous collapse condition. Three other important design criteria are
* ''bearing:'' will the wood crush where it bears on the support
* ''shear:'' will the beam shear apart near its supporting pier
* ''bending strength:'' will the tension in the bottom edge of the beam tear it apart
Either of the last two failures will cause immediate structural collapse.

=== Truss option ===

A simple inverted kingpost truss using steel-bar tension members, added to the 2x6 stringer design, may work well.
[[File:TrussSketch.png]]

=== I-joist option ===
According to [http://opensourceecology.org/w/images/e/e7/IJoist.pdf this guide] I estimate a 12-inch deep PRI-50 IJoist would carry 3200 lb @ 1" deflection (L/180).

Very loose cost estimate: $2.00/linear foot. Approx 375 linear ft in 5 stringer sets = $750.

=Technical Notes=

==Roof Tie==

The use of Simpson Strong Tie model 2.5 can bind the roof panels to the rafter boards in such a way as to bind the roof to the rafters. We will use 100 of them, tying all of the edges and middles of the roof boxes to the rafters.

==Foundations==

The site is a heavy clay soil with a calculated bearing capability of between 1000 and 4000 pounds per square foot. The foundation design goal is to bring the building static load below 1000 PSF, so that the possible live load (gantry crane loaded, snow on the roof) even doubling the load will keep the foundation pressure beneath 2000 PSF.

[[File:OSE_Pillar_Foundation_Justification.png|thumb]]

[[File:OSE_Wall_Foundation_Justification.png|thumb]]

[[File:InterfaceAssembly.png|thumb]]

[[Category:OSE Shop]]

=Work documentation=
==Preparation==
[[File:8-20-21_Goals.png|500px|thumb]]

How to make a water level: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nAcT_1T25LM

How to lay a brick: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lORIZ1shRIM

Instruction pages for each step of the project are being prepared and will be posted periodically as time and availability allow.

==Components==
*Roof sections
*Roofing materials - Chris
*Stringers for workshop -
<html><iframe width="300" height="233" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed//K9rgJTTZN6I" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe></html>

=Earth Compaction=

See [[Earth Compaction]]

[[Category:FeF Infrastructure]]

[[Category:OSE_Shop_2011]]

OSE HabLab 2011

2011-09-13T03:18:09Z

DavidIAm: Created page with "Plans for the Hab Lab in a Sketchup Model Here: http://dogpawz.com/OSE/OSE%20Hab%20Lab%20Working.skp Hab Lab Model Working Flythrough Here: [[http://www.youtube.com/watch?..."

Plans for the Hab Lab in a Sketchup Model Here:

[[http://dogpawz.com/OSE/OSE%20Hab%20Lab%20Working.skp Hab Lab Model Working]]

Flythrough Here:

[[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSS8kuejE6k Youtube Flythrough]]

OSE Shop 2011

2011-08-27T05:47:39Z

DavidIAm: /* Instructions At This Stage */

{{breadcrumb|Housing and construction}}

A 12 cell (16'x16') workshop for prototyping and production runs of open source ecology machines

Steps taken to recycle and use a roof structure built as a prototype are shown on the [[OSE Shop 2011/OSE Mill Shed 2011]] page.

See also the prototypical [[CEB Living Unit]]

See also [[Factor_e_Farm_Infrastructure_Buildout_2011]]

See also [[Category:Hab Lab]]

=Instructions At This Stage=

[[https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=1_hf2n-l9rCiEss45ZC8ogtMpeQki9fCoYIFdkD5x3lCOwjGh7Gknr-POJrNB&hl=en Rebar plan for column footings]]

[[https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=1IMWtpzgw8_tln1n1pxUDg1rOmf5rnL7XF1qQZ2vroV-MD2r3fk_hTvPfnjxE&hl=en Excavate and fill column pad holes]]

[[https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=14oCxZUjs09wGuvaL4QTAII6hRxQpy20TKv7skH3INRWAVlXqtgdrh0D2ggtl&hl=en Assembly sheet for column pad forms]]

[[https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=1S7WvKBJ4NEgjMEr4Bfomu0vQNEx4m3ep1ldEMK7bg920O3CPr1QBZqxXnDhP&hl=en Excavate and fill column pad holes]]

[[https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=1DZGHOq5_jYsO4SwlsuEU37nDyT_9pnnM3C2oKWiyMbLQwFtXj5GdIEhpIhYv&hl=en Detailed stakeout of building plan]]

[[File:Rebar_assembly_for_interior_16x16_slab.png]]
[[File:Rebar_assembly_for_edge_16x21_slab.png]]
[[File:Rebar_assembly_for_edge_16x16_slab.png]]
[[File:Rebar_assembly_for_corner_16x21_slab.png]]
[[File:Rebar_assembly_for_corner_16x16_slab.png]]
[[File:Rebar_assembly_for_21x21_corner_slab.png]]
[[File:Rebar_assembly_for_supply_shed_21x21_slab.png]]
[[File:Electrical_Panel_Layout.png]]
[[File:Electrical_120_outlets_Layout.png]]
[[File:Column Pad form layout.png]]

=Future Instructions=

=Design Model=

Youtube quick Tour here [[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gsowoMjSy2I http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gsowoMjSy2I]]

<html>
<iframe width="560" height="349" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed//gsowoMjSy2I" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
</html>

Sketchup model: [[http://sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/details?mid=afe75b01802fcadd79276599ab9c72d http://sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/details?mid=461634956aef7a94d79276599ab9c72d]]

Embed:
<html>
<iframe src="http://sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/mini?mid=461634956aef7a94d79276599ab9c72d&etyp=sw&width=400&height=300" frameborder="0" scrolling="no" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" width="400" height="300"></iframe>
</html>

Notes for model update
# put tie detail into model for roof beams to roof boxes
# create rebar plan
# reset animation points after model rotation
# generate new animation and walkthrough
# upload to youtube and update wiki

=Construction Plan Mindmap=

[[File:OSE Shop.png|200px|thumb|[[OSE Shop 2011 Mind Map]]]]

Full size here:[[http://opensourceecology.org/w/images/9/9f/OSE_Shop.png]]

Actual Mindmap file here (created with freemind) [[http://dogpawz.com/OSE/OSE%20Shop%20Planning.mm]]

[[Image:OSE_Shop_Planning.png]]

=Supply sources=

Sand & Gravel - Larry McFee - Maysville - 816 724-0736

=Cost Estimates=

[https://spreadsheets.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0ApN4BXK1pgnKdGpHMVBKcW5qZ285SGZTNWo0aDFjalE&hl=en_US Spreadsheet]

<html>
<iframe width='800' height='800' frameborder='0' src='https://spreadsheets4.google.com/spreadsheet/pub?key=0ApN4BXK1pgnKdGpHMVBKcW5qZ285SGZTNWo0aDFjalE&output=html&widget=true'></iframe>
</html>

Also see [[Factor_e_Farm_Infrastructure_Buildout_2011]]

=Materials and Budget=

*4 [http://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-2401-22-12-Volt-Li-Ion-Compact/dp/B000WI9CIG/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1311881639&sr=1-1 Milwaukee cordless drills] - $407
*Roof metal - 136 panels, 17' long (3' widths) - 108 for workshop, 22 for material shed, and 6 extra + flashing for clerestory + screws + flashing closure - total $5871
*2x6 lumber, $6.60 - total 396 pieces - total $2802
*Glue, #25 star driver bits, 3" star bit screws, 2 glue guns, furring strips, 2 tie downs - $299
*Trailer rental for lumber - $47

[[OSE Shop 2011 Materials Planning|Materials Planning Page]]

=Design Notes=

==Loading Dock==

Add a loading dock for easy access to truck bed level deliveries

==Driveway==

Improve and expand the driveway to be smoother, wider, and double-access (pull-through) and have designated parking spots.

==Equipment Room==

Build an equipment room in the storage shed.

This will keeps the noise of the compressor, generator, hydraulic pump, and such away from the shop. Will also provide storage for smaller parts. Piping and conduits carry power in various forms into the shop.

==Expand Shop==

* Moved both last rows of columns out 7.5 feet
* Very moderate cost for 500 additional square feet of space
* Simplifies roof plan.

==Storage/Equipment shed on south end==

Between the shop and the berm

==Use 2x6==

2x6's cost *half* of what 2x10's cost. We're spending almost $3000 on lumber. Can we save $1500?

This calculator externally:

[http://www.awc.org/calculators/span/calc/timbercalcstyle.asp?species=Southern+Pine&size=2x6&grade=No.+2&member=Rafters+%28Snow+Load%29&deflectionlimit=L%2F180&spacing=24&wet=No&incised=No&liveload=20&snowload=10&deadload=5&submit=Calculate+Maximum+Horizontal+Span#answer]

Indicates that 2x6's can be used for our spans easily if our snow load is less than 10 pounds per square foot (about a foot of snow), and probably are even okay for 10 pounds per square foot.

It is my judgement that at least shifting to 2x8's to save cost would be worthwhile.
2 x 6's will work fine, the vast majority of structures use them.

=Technical Notes=

==Roof Tie==

The use of Simpson Strong Tie model 2.5 can bind the roof panels to the rafter boards in such a way as to bind the roof to the rafters. We will use 100 of them, tying all of the edges and middles of the roof boxes to the rafters.

==Foundations==

The site is a heavy clay soil with a calculated bearing capability of between 1000 and 4000 pounds per square foot. The foundation design goal is to bring the building static load below 1000 PSF, so that the possible live load (gantry crane loaded, snow on the roof) even doubling the load will keep the foundation pressure beneath 2000 PSF.

[[File:OSE_Pillar_Foundation_Justification.png|thumb]]

[[File:OSE_Wall_Foundation_Justification.png|thumb]]

[[File:InterfaceAssembly.png|thumb]]

[[Category:OSE Shop]]

=Work documentation=

[[File:8-20-21_Goals.png|500px|thumb]]

How to make a water level: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nAcT_1T25LM

How to lay a brick: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lORIZ1shRIM

Instruction pages for each step of the project are being prepared and will be posted periodically as time and availability allow.

=Earth Compaction=

See [[Earth Compaction]]

[[Category:FeF Infrastructure]]

[[Category:OSE_Shop_2011]]

File:Column Pad form layout.png

2011-08-27T05:46:58Z

DavidIAm:

OSE Shop 2011 Prepare Column Pad Sites

2011-08-27T05:44:25Z

DavidIAm:

Prepare Column Pad sites
Set the pre-built column pad forms in place under the string lines.
Stake them in place with form stakes per lay-out.
Remove stone 2” deep inside forms.
Pack removed stone around outside of forms.
Use one prebuilt column pad rebar assembly for each column pad site.
Center the rebar assembly with 3” gap between assembly and form wall on every side.
Set rebar chairs under corners of prebuilt column pad rebar assemblies per diagram.

[[File:Prepare_Column_Pad_sites_layout.png]]

[[Category:OSE_Shop_2011]]

OSE Shop 2011 Rebar assembly for delivery slab

2011-08-27T05:41:27Z

DavidIAm:

[[File:Rebar_assembly_for_delivery_slab.png]]

[[Category:OSE_Shop_2011]]

File:Rebar assembly for delivery slab.png

2011-08-27T05:41:08Z

DavidIAm:

OSE Shop 2011 Rebar assembly for delivery slab

2011-08-27T05:39:34Z

DavidIAm: Created page with "File:Rebar_assembly_for_delivery_slab Category:OSE_Shop_2011"

[[File:Rebar_assembly_for_delivery_slab]]

[[Category:OSE_Shop_2011]]

OSE Shop 2011 Stake and lay out for column pads

2011-08-27T05:38:28Z

DavidIAm: Created page with "Stake and lay out for Column Pads Correct the level of the foundation stone first. Place the stakes around the edges of the building site 6” closer to the column center lines ..."

Stake and lay out for Column Pads

Correct the level of the foundation stone first.
Place the stakes around the edges of the building site 6” closer to the column center lines than they
were for the foundation holes.
Rerun the layout strings in the same pattern we had before digging.

File:Build Column Rebar.png

2011-08-27T05:37:52Z

DavidIAm:

OSE Shop 2011 Build Column Rebar

2011-08-27T05:37:34Z

DavidIAm: Created page with "File:Build_Column_Rebar.png Category:OSE_Shop_2011"

[[File:Build_Column_Rebar.png]]

[[Category:OSE_Shop_2011]]

OSE Shop 2011 Prepare Delivery Slab Site

2011-08-27T05:35:47Z

DavidIAm:

Prepare Delivery Slab site
Set a 24’2” form board against the stakes holding the North supply shed column pad forms in place.
Butt and fasten a 20’2” form board to the East end of it and line it up with the edge of the NE supply
shed column form.
Stake the long board every three feet along its length being sure to put a stake at the splint.
Butt and fasten the remaining form boards to create the slab form box.
Stake them in place with form stakes every 3 feet being sure to put a stake at the splint.
Brace the middle of each side in one or two places with a staked bracing board.
Mound extra stone along the base of the form if available.
Fasten rebar chairs to the prebuilt rebar assembly per diagram.
Center the rebar assembly with 3” gap between assembly and form wall on every side.

[[File:Set_Up_Delivery_Slab_Form.png]]

[[Category:OSE_Shop_2011]]

File:Set Up Delivery Slab Form.png

2011-08-27T05:35:32Z

DavidIAm:

OSE Shop 2011 Prepare Delivery Slab Site

2011-08-27T05:34:39Z

DavidIAm: Created page with "Prepare Delivery Slab site Set a 24’2” form board against the stakes holding the North supply shed column pad forms in place. Butt and fasten a 20’2” form board to the Ea..."

OSE Shop 2011 Prepare Column Pad Sites

2011-08-27T05:33:18Z

DavidIAm:

File:Prepare Column Pad sites layout.png

2011-08-27T05:32:56Z

DavidIAm: For OSE Shop 2011

For OSE Shop 2011

OSE Shop 2011 Prepare Column Pad Sites

2011-08-27T05:32:36Z

DavidIAm: Created page with "Prepare Column Pad sites Set the pre-built column pad forms in place under the string lines. Stake them in place with form stakes per lay-out. Remove stone 2” deep inside forms..."

OSE Shop 2011 Filling low areas under floor

2011-08-27T05:31:07Z

DavidIAm: Created page with "Filling and compacting low areas under floor foundation Compact underpinnings are essential for a sturdy, long-lasting, weight-bearing floor. Dump loads of fill dirt into the ar..."

Filling and compacting low areas under floor foundation

Compact underpinnings are essential for a sturdy, long-lasting, weight-bearing floor.
Dump loads of fill dirt into the area and spread it fairly evenly until you have 6-8” of depth (or ‘lift’) in
the fill that is in the depression.
Work over the filled area with a rolling or impact compactor.
Expect the resulting fill to be only 4-5” deep.
Repeat these steps until the depressed area is raised to the site level needed.
Compact the soil to at least 3’ outside the edge of the workshop floor.

[[Category:OSE_Shop_2011]]

OSE Shop 2011 Fill excavation with stone

2011-08-27T05:30:25Z

DavidIAm: Created page with "Fill excavated holes and surrounding slab foundations with stone If any plumbing or electric lines are to run under the concrete pads, be sure they are in place before laying th..."

Fill excavated holes and surrounding slab foundations with stone

If any plumbing or electric lines are to run under the concrete pads, be sure they are in place before
laying the foundation stone.

Remove and stack the stakes from the completed holes
Tie the marking strings to the non-working side of the pad sites in next line of pads (East)
Have a truck load of stone delivered. (Each hole will take approximately 1.7 cu. yds. of stone.)
Have it dropped in divided piles next to the holes if possible.
Fill the excavated holes with stone to 12” deep.
Compact the stone with a vibrating compactor.
Fill the excavated holes with stone another 12” deep.
Compact the stone with a vibrating compactor.
Fill the excavated holes with stone another 12” deep.
Compact the stone with a vibrating compactor.
If needed, fill the excavated holes with stone another 12” deep.
Spread additional stone between the filled holes to 8” deep.
Compact the stone with a vibrating compactor.
The compacted area should end up close to 6” deep with the pad sites and floor area level with each
other.
Repeat the process of digging and filling with each row of pad sites until all pad sites, including supply
shed pad sites, are excavated and filled.

[[Category:OSE_Shop_2011]]

OSE Shop 2011 Excavate Column Pad Holes

2011-08-27T05:29:23Z

DavidIAm:

Excavate Column Pad holes

These are modified instructions specific for the FactorE Farm where some pad sites are already in place
Start excavating with the two East pads for the supply shed and three SouthEast workshop pads.
Follow the general instructions below.
Fill these holes with foundation stone and compact it.
Excavate, fill and compact the West supply shed pads and the remaining East side workshop pad sites.
Alternatively, excavate the remaining 3 East side pad sites and the West supply shed pads before
filling with stone.
In this case, fill and compact the East supply shed pad sites and the SE workshop pad site before
filling the two West pads for the supply shed and the interior SE workshop pad.
Be sure the dirt fill is well compacted before excavating the sites for the last three column pads on the
North side of the workshop.

These are general instructions
Start with the most accessible pad. (SW corner)
• Leave the stakes in place.
• Tie the strings to the stakes on the non working sides of the pad site(North and East). Roll, do
not cut off, the loose part of the line – it will be needed again!
• Dig the pad site to about 32” below the ground level (44” below the mark on the stakes) in 4’ x
4’ square.
§ Backhoe machine operator can deposit dirt where it is needed for leveling on the site
§ Augered-machine operator can use an auger to start excavation at the four corners
o Collection and relocation of the dirt will require additional workers.
o Once the corners are excavated, the stakes can be removed and stacked if they
are too hard to work around. (keep them nearby – they will be needed again,
too.)
• Use the dirt removed to fill low areas in the workshop space* ( – or take it to the CEB press area
for use in making CEB’s and/or slurry.)
• Move to the next pad site on the same (West) line
Repeat the bulleted steps for the next pad site until five or six pad holes are prepared.
Fill these holes with foundation stone before excavating the next row of holes.

* See instruction sheet on filling low areas.

[[File:Layout_for_digging_column_holes.png]]

[[Category:OSE_Shop_2011]]

File:Layout for digging column holes.png

2011-08-27T05:28:22Z

DavidIAm: uploaded a new version of "File:Layout for digging column holes.png": For OSE Shop 2011

[[Category::OSE_Shop_2011]]

OSE Shop 2011 Excavate Column Pad Holes

2011-08-27T05:27:54Z

DavidIAm:

File:Layout for digging column holes.png

2011-08-27T05:27:33Z

DavidIAm: Category::OSE_Shop_2011

[[Category::OSE_Shop_2011]]

OSE Shop 2011 Excavate Column Pad Holes

2011-08-27T05:26:20Z

DavidIAm: Created page with "Excavate Column Pad holes These are modified instructions specific for the FactorE Farm where some pad sites are already in place Start excavating with the two East pads for the..."

OSE Shop 2011 Detailed Stake out of Building Site

2011-08-27T05:25:42Z

DavidIAm: Created page with "Detailed stake out of building site Preliminaries Clear the site of all debris, equipment, and bio mass including removing trees that are in the way. Collect equipment and sup..."

Detailed stake out of building site

Preliminaries

Clear the site of all debris, equipment, and bio mass including removing trees that are in the way.

Collect equipment and supplies needed
Ingredients:
Blueprint of site plan
Water Level/transit
Compass
Measuring tape
100 Stakes
500 yards String
Notebook
Pencil/permanent marker

Check general level over entire site area.
Flatten with scraper any noticeable significant elevations.
Fill and tamp down well any obvious or significant depressions.

Laying out the column pad sites (also marks the full floor dimensions of the buildings)
(These instructions relate to the partially prepared site at FactorE Farm)
Stake Center of each existing pad site
Measure spacing of centers of existing N/S and E/W rows of pad sites (should be 16’)
Determine compass line orientation of existing rows of pad sites (plans expect 90⁰ due N/S & E/W)
Extend Center line of each N/S row 21’ to the North and stake the centers of new pad sites.
Extend Center line of each N/S row 16’ to the South and stake the centers of new pad sites where
needed.
Extend Center line of each E/W row 21’ to the East and stake the centers of new pad sites.
Stake center for NE pad site at intersection of lines drawn through North and East pad-center lines.

Laying out the column pad sites for a Workshop
(These instructions are for building on an unimproved site.)
Choose a location for the center of the Northwest corner pad and place a stake.
Measure 16 ft. due East from that stake (along the short side of the proposed building) and place
another stake.
Extend the line again - another 16 ft. and place a third stake.
Finally, extend the line an additional 21 ft. and place a fourth stake.
Starting from the first stake again, measure 21 ft. due South and place a stake.
Extend the line due South again, placing 3 stakes at 16 ft. intervals.
From the last stake placed, measure 53 feet due East.
Check and correct the square by measuring diagonals.
Place corresponding pad-center stakes along the South and West edges of the building.
Locate the center pads by running a grid of strings across the site and marking the intersecting points.

Supply Shed Column Pads
Extend Center lines of the two middle N/S rows 22’ to the S of the most southerly work shop pad sites
and place stakes there. The stake on the eastern line marks the center of the NE supply shed pad.
(The stake on the western line is a temporary stake.)
Extend these lines another 21 feet and place two more stakes. The eastern stake marks the center of
the SE supply shed pad. (The stake on the western line is a temporary stake.)
Measure 5’ to the West of each temporary stake and place stakes to mark the centers of the NW and
SW supply shed pads. Remove the temporary stakes.

Stake the corners of each pad hole
On the North side of the building site, measure 2 feet North of each Center stake. Extend this line to the
East to a point 3 feet East of the most easterly center stake and set a stake. Extend the same line to
the West to a point 3 feet West of the most easterly center stake and set a stake. Run a string line.
On the South side of the building site, measure 2 feet South of each Center stake. Extend this line to the
East to a point 3 feet East of the most easterly center stake and set a stake. Extend the same line to
the West to a point 3 feet West of the most easterly center stake and set a stake. Run a string line.
On the East side of the building site, measure 2 feet East of each Center stake. Extend this line to the
North to a point 3 feet North of the most northerly center stake and set a stake. Extend the same line
to the South to a point 3 feet South of the most southerly center stake and set a stake. Run a string
line.
On the East side of the building site, measure 2 feet East of each Center stake. Extend this line to the
North to a point 3 feet North of the most northerly center stake and set a stake. Extend the same line
to the South to a point 3 feet South of the most southerly center stake and set a stake. Run a string
line.
On the West side of the building site, measure 2 feet West of each Center stake. Extend this line to the
North to a point 3 feet North of the most northerly center stake and set a stake. Extend the same line
to the South to a point 3 feet South of the most southerly center stake and set a stake. Run a string
line.
Starting at the west corners, place a stake at 4 feet, 16 feet, 20 feet, 32 feet, 36 feet, and 53 feet. These
last stakes should be 4 feet from the corner stake.
Run a string between the corresponding North and South stakes.
Starting at the south corners, place a stake at 4 feet, 16 feet, 20 feet, 32 feet, 36 feet, 48 feet, 52 feet,
and 69 feet. These last stakes should be 4 feet from the corner stake.
Run a string between the corresponding east and west stakes.
Place a stake along each string one foot outside the intersections of the string lines. (8 stakes per pad)
Measure and stake the corners of the supply shed pad sites in a similar manner. The outside
measurements of the site will be 25 feet square and the North edge of the supply shed pad sites will
be 18 feet from the South edge of the work shop pad sites. Each pad site will measure 4’x4’.

Measure and mark site levels

To provide a floor slope of ¼” per foot, there will be a 14” level drop from East to West.
Measure levels along the North line of work shop column pad sites.
Mark a level line on the East stakes of the NE pad site one foot above the site level line.
Mark a level line on the West stakes of the second pad site 6” lower than the level marked on the first
East stake.
Mark a level line on the West stakes of the third pad site 4” lower than the level marked on the second
pad site stake.
Mark a level line on the West stakes of the NW pad site 4” lower than the level marked on the third pad
site stake.
Mark level lines the same way on all the E/W lines of stakes for the workshop floor.
Mark a level line on the East stakes of the East supply shed column pad stakes at the same level as the
second row of workshop column pads.
Mark a level line on the West stakes of the West supply shed column pad stakes 6” lower than the level
marked on the East stake.

Measure and map levels for drainage system
(These lines are for the deepest point of a 6 ft. wide grassy waterway with the building side of it
beginning 3 ft. from the edge of the building.)
Measure and map levels along a line 6 feet to the North of a line marking the outside edge of the North
workshop pad sites and extending to the existing water way.
Measure and map levels along a line 6 feet to the South of a line marking the outside edge of the South
pad sites and extending to the existing water way.
Measure and map levels along a line 6 feet to the East of a line marking the outside edge of the East
workshop pad sites and extending 6 feet further South.
Measure and map levels along a line connecting the South end of the East drainage line to the East end
of the South drainage line.

[[Category:OSE_Shop_2011]]

OSE Shop 2011

2011-08-27T05:24:26Z

DavidIAm:

{{breadcrumb|Housing and construction}}

A 12 cell (16'x16') workshop for prototyping and production runs of open source ecology machines

Steps taken to recycle and use a roof structure built as a prototype are shown on the [[OSE Shop 2011/OSE Mill Shed 2011]] page.

See also the prototypical [[CEB Living Unit]]

See also [[Factor_e_Farm_Infrastructure_Buildout_2011]]

See also [[Category:Hab Lab]]

=Instructions At This Stage=

[[https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=1_hf2n-l9rCiEss45ZC8ogtMpeQki9fCoYIFdkD5x3lCOwjGh7Gknr-POJrNB&hl=en Rebar plan for column footings]]

[[https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=1IMWtpzgw8_tln1n1pxUDg1rOmf5rnL7XF1qQZ2vroV-MD2r3fk_hTvPfnjxE&hl=en Excavate and fill column pad holes]]

[[https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=14oCxZUjs09wGuvaL4QTAII6hRxQpy20TKv7skH3INRWAVlXqtgdrh0D2ggtl&hl=en Assembly sheet for column pad forms]]

[[https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=1S7WvKBJ4NEgjMEr4Bfomu0vQNEx4m3ep1ldEMK7bg920O3CPr1QBZqxXnDhP&hl=en Excavate and fill column pad holes]]

[[https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=1DZGHOq5_jYsO4SwlsuEU37nDyT_9pnnM3C2oKWiyMbLQwFtXj5GdIEhpIhYv&hl=en Detailed stakeout of building plan]]

[[File:Rebar_assembly_for_interior_16x16_slab.png]]
[[File:Rebar_assembly_for_edge_16x21_slab.png]]
[[File:Rebar_assembly_for_edge_16x16_slab.png]]
[[File:Rebar_assembly_for_corner_16x21_slab.png]]
[[File:Rebar_assembly_for_corner_16x16_slab.png]]
[[File:Rebar_assembly_for_21x21_corner_slab.png]]
[[File:Rebar_assembly_for_supply_shed_21x21_slab.png]]
[[File:Electrical_Panel_Layout.png]]
[[File:Electrical_120_outlets_Layout.png]]

=Future Instructions=

=Design Model=

Youtube quick Tour here [[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gsowoMjSy2I http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gsowoMjSy2I]]

<html>
<iframe width="560" height="349" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed//gsowoMjSy2I" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
</html>

Sketchup model: [[http://sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/details?mid=afe75b01802fcadd79276599ab9c72d http://sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/details?mid=461634956aef7a94d79276599ab9c72d]]

Embed:
<html>
<iframe src="http://sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/mini?mid=461634956aef7a94d79276599ab9c72d&etyp=sw&width=400&height=300" frameborder="0" scrolling="no" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" width="400" height="300"></iframe>
</html>

Notes for model update
# put tie detail into model for roof beams to roof boxes
# create rebar plan
# reset animation points after model rotation
# generate new animation and walkthrough
# upload to youtube and update wiki

=Construction Plan Mindmap=

[[File:OSE Shop.png|200px|thumb|[[OSE Shop 2011 Mind Map]]]]

Full size here:[[http://opensourceecology.org/w/images/9/9f/OSE_Shop.png]]

Actual Mindmap file here (created with freemind) [[http://dogpawz.com/OSE/OSE%20Shop%20Planning.mm]]

[[Image:OSE_Shop_Planning.png]]

=Supply sources=

Sand & Gravel - Larry McFee - Maysville - 816 724-0736

=Cost Estimates=

[https://spreadsheets.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0ApN4BXK1pgnKdGpHMVBKcW5qZ285SGZTNWo0aDFjalE&hl=en_US Spreadsheet]

<html>
<iframe width='800' height='800' frameborder='0' src='https://spreadsheets4.google.com/spreadsheet/pub?key=0ApN4BXK1pgnKdGpHMVBKcW5qZ285SGZTNWo0aDFjalE&output=html&widget=true'></iframe>
</html>

Also see [[Factor_e_Farm_Infrastructure_Buildout_2011]]

=Materials and Budget=

*4 [http://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-2401-22-12-Volt-Li-Ion-Compact/dp/B000WI9CIG/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1311881639&sr=1-1 Milwaukee cordless drills] - $407
*Roof metal - 136 panels, 17' long (3' widths) - 108 for workshop, 22 for material shed, and 6 extra + flashing for clerestory + screws + flashing closure - total $5871
*2x6 lumber, $6.60 - total 396 pieces - total $2802
*Glue, #25 star driver bits, 3" star bit screws, 2 glue guns, furring strips, 2 tie downs - $299
*Trailer rental for lumber - $47

[[OSE Shop 2011 Materials Planning|Materials Planning Page]]

=Design Notes=

==Loading Dock==

Add a loading dock for easy access to truck bed level deliveries

==Driveway==

Improve and expand the driveway to be smoother, wider, and double-access (pull-through) and have designated parking spots.

==Equipment Room==

Build an equipment room in the storage shed.

This will keeps the noise of the compressor, generator, hydraulic pump, and such away from the shop. Will also provide storage for smaller parts. Piping and conduits carry power in various forms into the shop.

==Expand Shop==

* Moved both last rows of columns out 7.5 feet
* Very moderate cost for 500 additional square feet of space
* Simplifies roof plan.

==Storage/Equipment shed on south end==

Between the shop and the berm

==Use 2x6==

2x6's cost *half* of what 2x10's cost. We're spending almost $3000 on lumber. Can we save $1500?

This calculator externally:

[http://www.awc.org/calculators/span/calc/timbercalcstyle.asp?species=Southern+Pine&size=2x6&grade=No.+2&member=Rafters+%28Snow+Load%29&deflectionlimit=L%2F180&spacing=24&wet=No&incised=No&liveload=20&snowload=10&deadload=5&submit=Calculate+Maximum+Horizontal+Span#answer]

Indicates that 2x6's can be used for our spans easily if our snow load is less than 10 pounds per square foot (about a foot of snow), and probably are even okay for 10 pounds per square foot.

It is my judgement that at least shifting to 2x8's to save cost would be worthwhile.
2 x 6's will work fine, the vast majority of structures use them.

=Technical Notes=

==Roof Tie==

The use of Simpson Strong Tie model 2.5 can bind the roof panels to the rafter boards in such a way as to bind the roof to the rafters. We will use 100 of them, tying all of the edges and middles of the roof boxes to the rafters.

==Foundations==

The site is a heavy clay soil with a calculated bearing capability of between 1000 and 4000 pounds per square foot. The foundation design goal is to bring the building static load below 1000 PSF, so that the possible live load (gantry crane loaded, snow on the roof) even doubling the load will keep the foundation pressure beneath 2000 PSF.

[[File:OSE_Pillar_Foundation_Justification.png|thumb]]

[[File:OSE_Wall_Foundation_Justification.png|thumb]]

[[File:InterfaceAssembly.png|thumb]]

[[Category:OSE Shop]]

=Work documentation=

[[File:8-20-21_Goals.png|500px|thumb]]

How to make a water level: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nAcT_1T25LM

How to lay a brick: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lORIZ1shRIM

Instruction pages for each step of the project are being prepared and will be posted periodically as time and availability allow.

=Earth Compaction=

See [[Earth Compaction]]

[[Category:FeF Infrastructure]]

[[Category:OSE_Shop_2011]]