Open Source Ecology - User contributions [en]

User:Greg Buckland

2015-04-18T20:26:06Z

Greg Buckland:

Greg Buckland came to OSE for a Dedicated Project Visit in Summer 2014. He worked on 3D printers, brick press fabrication, Microhouse 3.0 design and build, and moved the state of the Lasersaur along. More info below.

[[Greg Buckland Dedicated Project Visit Application]]

[[Greg Buckland - Essay Excerpt]]

[[Greg Log]]

File:Output Arrow.svg

2015-04-18T20:23:59Z

Greg Buckland: Output Arrow Icon

Output Arrow Icon

File:Input Arrow.svg

2015-04-18T20:23:09Z

Greg Buckland: Input arrow icon

Input arrow icon

File:Role Allocation.svg

2015-04-18T20:22:11Z

Greg Buckland: Role allocation icon

Role allocation icon

Icon Source

2015-04-18T20:21:43Z

Greg Buckland:

This is the source repository for OSE's icon library.

[[File:Role_Allocation.svg]]

[[File:Input_Arrow.svg]]

[[File:Output_Arrow.svg]]

Icon Source

2015-04-18T20:21:29Z

Greg Buckland:

This is the source repository for OSE's icon library.

[[File:Role_Allocation.svg]]
[[File:Input_Arrow.svg]]
[[File:Output_Arrow.svg]]

Icon Source

2015-04-18T19:27:40Z

Greg Buckland: Created page with "This is the source repository for OSE's icon library."

This is the source repository for OSE's icon library.

Composting Toilet

2014-11-30T16:15:36Z

Greg Buckland: /* Proposed Timeline */

{{Category=Soil and compost}}
{{Category=Home fittings}}

=Current Design, 2014=

Our design is an above-ground, low-maintenance moldering composting toilet that is intended for large groups (workshop participants, interns) over a short term. The toilet facilitates the decomposition of humanure in an isolated straw-bale chamber.

It is based on Nancy Rosalie's [http://www.mofga.org/Publications/MaineOrganicFarmerGardener/Fall2009/Thrones/tabid/1255/Default.aspx Common Throne] for the [http://www.mofga.org/theFair Common Ground Fair] in Unity, Maine.

{| class="wikitable"
|-
|[[File:outhouse_complete_small.jpg|250px]]
|[[File:Composting_Toilet_Sketchup.png|400px]]
|}
[[File:Composting_Toilet.skp]]

==Trovebox Album==

For more photos of the building process, this is the complete [https://opensourceecology.trovebox.com/photos/page-1/album-20/list '''Photo Album''']

[[Image:compostalbum.jpg|500px]]

==Introduction==

===What is “humanure”?===
Humanure (human manure) is human fecal material and urine. It can be a major source of environmental pollution around the world. It also can be a source of disease organisms. When discarded into the environment as a waste material, it creates pollution and threatens public health. When recycled by composting, the pollution and health threats can be eliminated. Humanure contains valuable soil nutrients that enhance plant growth. For these reasons, humanure should be recycled whenever possible.

===What is composting?===
Composting is the feeding of organic material such as humanure and food scraps to small organisms such as beneficial bacteria. Many compost organisms are too small to be seen, however, many of them can be seen. The larger ones include earthworms and many other tiny insects. Fungi also live in compost piles and they digest the tougher, woody plant materials.

*Definitions from Joseph Jenkins,[http://weblife.org/humanure/default.html Humanure Handbook])
===How does it work?===
Humanure, when collected and contained in an enclosed environment, and combined with carbon based cover material, goes through a process of aerobic decomposition to create nutrient rich humus. This process destroys pathogens and allows bacteria to thoroughly decompose the refuse material. With the appropriate conditions, with correct air flow, temperature, carbon:nitrogen ratio, the human refuse will aerobically decompose into nutrient rich humus.

===Why?===
In contemporary society, we have broken the ecology of the human nutrient cycle. Factory farms apply chemical fertilizers to agricultural land, in order to support the vegetation. Consumers then discard refuse and flush away their ‘waste’ to sewers and landfills, sacrificing valuable nutrients and polluting drinking water.

Open Source Ecology, as an educational hub, has an obligation to demonstrate the possibility of reintegrating ourselves within the environment, starting with the most basic of human functions; eating, digesting, and excreting waste, and transforming our byproducts into valuable resources. The composting toilet is directly in line with the basic mission of OSE, to preserve water and provide soil nourishment, which are essential for the revitalization of the landscape and resilience for the future.

==Use and Maintenance of Current System==
*Limit liquids and moisture (no urine) in chamber, in order to maintain appropriate moisture content in chamber, and reduce odors

*After each visit to the toilet, add just enough sawdust to completely cover your contribution

*Close toilet lid and open stall doors after each use to limit flies and odor

*Weekly cleaning:
**Clean 5 gallon bucket "poop chutes" - minimize use of water, and only a tiny amount of biodegradable soap (e.g. Dr. Bronners) if necessary
**Sweep out chambers, deck, and stairs
**Restock toilet paper (ideally bleach free)
**Replenish sawdust (from nearby sawmill or our own workshop - NOTE: Clean sawdust only; e.g. NO Hydraulic fluid, NO treated lumber dust, NO pink foam dust)

*When the chamber is filled to capacity, (determined by users, after the summer season of workshops/interns) the toilet should be closed and left undisturbed for 8 to 12 months. This is when the composting process will occur.

*After approximately 8 months to 1 year, the back wall of straw-bales is removed and the finished compost is shoveled from the chamber. Composted humus should be ready for laying around trees and ornamental plants; NOT recommended for vegetable gardening. New straw-bales are added as needed, and the process begins again.

'''*Recommended Fallow Period: October 1st - June 1st''' - this will allow 8 months for composting

==Work Still Needed==
''In rough priority order''
*Seal, stain, or paint the toilet
**Remove doors and metal hardware
**Paint metal hardware with spraypaint (black?)
**Paint or seal doors, stair treads, and railings. Consider sealing/painting exposed 2x4 wall framing, roof rafters. Especially focus on sealing/painting the end grains of all exposed untreated wood.
**Ask Sutherland's or Menard's what they recommend for deck or shed sealing/painting
**'''DO NOT seal or paint Treated Lumber before 2015 June 1'''. Treated lumber is greenish in hue and includes: stair stringers, ribbon/rim joists, 3/4" deck plywood, 1/2" sheathing plywood. It needs to breath and dry out before it can be safely sealed or painted.

*Anchor the toilet for wind protection using [http://www.menards.com/main/building-materials/storage-buildings/storage-building-accessories/3-x-30-earth-anchor/p-1349524-c-9565.htm earth anchors] and cables / [http://www.menards.com/main/tools-hardware/household-hardware/utility-hardware/turnbuckles/50-turnbuckle/p-2014919-c-9710.htm turnbuckles].

*Make good signage, including:
**"CLOSED FOR COMPOSTING. October 1st - June 1st
**Instructions for use
**Instructions for cleaning
**Philosophy & theory of composting toilets

*Good documentation of build, here on the Wiki or on Dozuki

*Add 1/4" plywood sides to seatboxes to hide the bucket/"poop chutes"

----
=== Proposed Timeline ===

October 1st, 2014: Close toilet for composting.

June 1st, 2015: Re-open and collect decomposed material with arrival of new interns. Add new straw-bales for chamber as needed.

'''Yes, compost:'''

feces, urine, menstrual blood

sawdust

toilet paper

toilet paper rolls (cardboard)

paper or cotton based feminine hygiene products

'''No, do NOT compost:'''

plastics

plastic feminine hygiene products

==The Plans==

===SketchUp===

[[File:Composting_Toilet.skp]]

===Dozuki===
[http://opensourceecology.dozuki.com/Guide/How+to+build+and+maintain+a+waterless+above-ground+chamber+Composting+Toilet/175 Dozuki instructionals]

=Previously Used System, 2012=

This is the exact technique for a simple composting toilet that we use at Factor e Farm (from a [http://weblife.org/humanure/default.html Humanure Handbook], (see [http://weblife.org/humanure/chapter8_2.html exact page and further pictures]):

“How it works is a model of simplicity. One begins by depositing one’s organic refuse (feces and urine) into a plastic bucket, clay urn, or other non-corrodible waterproof receptacle with about a five gallon (20 liter) capacity. Food scraps may be collected in a separate receptacle, but can also be deposited into the toilet receptacle. A five gallon capacity is recommended because a larger size would be too heavy to carry when full. If five gallons is still too heavy for someone to carry, it can be emptied when half-full.

The contents of the toilet are kept covered with a clean, plant-based cover material such as rotted sawdust, peat moss, leaf mould, rice hulls, or grass clippings, in order to prevent odors, absorb urine, and eliminate any fly nuisance. Urine is deposited into the same receptacle, and as the liquid surface rises, more cover material is added so that a clean layer of organic material covers the toilet contents at all times.

A lid is kept on the toilet receptacle when not in use. The lid need not be air-tight, and a standard, hinged toilet seat is quite suitable. The lid does not necessarily prevent odor from escaping, and it does not necessarily prevent flies from gaining access to the toilet contents. Instead, the cover material does. The cover material acts as an organic lid or a “biofilter”; the physical lid (toilet seat) is used primarily for convenience and aesthetics.”
----

The idea of a composting toilet is to keep compost around 43-50°C (110-122°F) for at least a week, to create an environment in which beneficial microorganisms thrive and pathogenic ones die. ''The Humanure Handbook'' says, "A sound approach to pathogen destruction when composting humanure is to [[Thermophilic compost|thermophilically compost]] the toilet material, then allow the compost to sit, undisturbed, for a lengthy period of time after the thermophilic heating stage has ended."

The way to accomplish this is:
* Use sawdust to bury manure. Sawdust provides carbon and this balances the nitrogen in the faeces. A good carbon-nitrogen balance is needed for composting. The sawdust also keeps bad smells in and keeps flies away. [[Biochar]] could also profitably be used for this purpose.
* Do not seperate urine and feces, as the urine provides moisture the microorganisms need.
* As well as adding the buckets from the toilet to the compost heap, throw on chunky materials like straw. This traps air pockets in the compost heap.
* Optionally, skewer the compost heap with sticks or pipes to provide more aeration.
* Let it sit for a year before using on plants

==Resources==
*''The Humanure Handbook, 3rd edition'' [http://humanurehandbook.com/contents.html here]

* [http://www.sunnyjohn.com/toiletpapers2.htm Moldering Toilets]
* Terra Preta Toilet
** [http://www.phlush.org/ecological-sanitation/terra-preta/ 1]
** [http://www.sswm.info/category/implementation-tools/water-use/hardware/toilet-systems/terra-preta-toilet 2]
* [http://teachdemocracy.org/cms/index.php/projects/naturaltoilets/toilet-article/ Natural Toilets]

*[http://en.howtopedia.org/wiki/How_to_Build_a_Compost_Toilet How-to-guide]

*[http://www.gytte.org/DCT.htm Dry Composting Toilet]

*[http://www.cropthornehouse.co.uk/design/ Cropthorne Autonomous House]

*[http://www.pacificwater.org/userfiles/file/mr0249.pdf Pacific Water Toilet designs]

*[http://cottagelife.com/files/2011/05/Privy-Plan.pdf composting toilet outhouse plans]

Lasersaur

2014-10-14T03:28:48Z

Greg Buckland: /* Coolant Note */

{{breadcrumb|Digital Fabrication|RepLab Tools|Laser Cutter}}

=Introduction=

Lasersaur is an open source [[Laser Cutter]] developed by [http://labs.nortd.com/ Nortd Labs]. [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stefan_Hechenberger Stefan Hechenberger] was a lead contributor.

OSE got a Lasersaur from Stefan in 2013. It was shipped from Europe and sat in the workshop until August 2014.

=Documentation and Support=

The [http://www.lasersaur.com/manual/ Lasersuar manual] has good comprehensive documentation, including BOM, CAD drawings, setup instructions, etc: http://www.lasersaur.com/manual/

The [https://groups.google.com/forum/#!forum/lasersaur Lasersaur Google Group] is an excellent searchable forum for specific questions not answered in the manual: https://groups.google.com/forum/#!forum/lasersaur

=Safety=

''from: http://www.lasersaur.com/manual/start''

The primary risks come from operating a CO2 laser tube. Please operate your first system with a laser source within your level of expertise, even if this is a laser pointer. From there work yourself up until you can safely run a high-powered system.

CO2 lasers involve high-energy infrared beams that may be reflected or scattered and can cause fire on many materials. '''Most importantly lasers may cause permanent damage to the eye. The best way to manage these kinds of risk is wearing protection glasses certified for CO2 wavelength''' and having proper fire extinguishers available at all times.

'''The second danger is high-voltage. Depending on the tube, you are looking at 25000-40000 volts. The power supplies are rated in the 50mA range which puts any electric shocks into lethal territory.''' One might be able to survive such a shock but depending on things like physical condition, length of shock, and the fact that the power supply may actually supply more amps temporarily puts this into the avoid-at-all-costs category. Also note that electricity at '''these voltages jumps through the air for several inches and be aware that the power supplies stay charged after disconnecting them''' from the outlet for quite some time.

Most countries have specific regulation for laser radiation that is typically dependent on the class of laser. Any laser that is suitable for cutting is class 4. Only after proper encasement and applying specifically regulated safety measures will a laser cutter be class 1.

=Coolant Note=

The H20/Propylene Glycol mix that's in the chiller for the Lasersaur (and likewise in the hoses and lasertube) is rated to about 15°F, so it should not be allowed to get that cold. '''The lasertube should be drained before the weather gets much below freezing - if the fluid is allowed to freeze, the tube could be cracked and destroyed.'''

Get a nice clean container to catch the coolant fluid and disconnect the hoses from the chiller itself, draining the lasertube, but leaving the hoses attached to it. Then, stopper the outlet and inlet on the chiller, pour the drained fluid back into the main coolant chamber, and take the chiller indoors for the winter. Alternately, you could drain the chiller completely, and put the coolant in a container that's OK to freeze (i.e. a soft plastic jug with lots of air space).

=Bill of Materials=

See http://labs.nortd.com/lasersaur/bom-subsystems-usd

=Promotional Video=

<html><object width="400" height="225"><param name="allowfullscreen" value="true" /><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always" /><param name="movie" value="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=23871399&server=vimeo.com&show_title=0&show_byline=0&show_portrait=0&color=00adef&fullscreen=1&autoplay=0&loop=0" /><embed src="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=23871399&server=vimeo.com&show_title=0&show_byline=0&show_portrait=0&color=00adef&fullscreen=1&autoplay=0&loop=0" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" allowscriptaccess="always" width="400" height="225"></embed></object><p><a href="http://vimeo.com/23871399">lasersaur</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/stefanix">stefanix</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p>
</html>

=Links=

[[September 2014 Email with Stefan]] - has some notes on our 40W laser, good safety goggles, ventilation, etc.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/stfnix/5510019543/in/set-72157624491114826

http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/nortd/lasersaur-open-source-laser-cutter-0

http://labs.nortd.com/lasersaur/

Physics lecture about how CO2 lasers work: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-cLSnuXGC_U

Lasersaur

2014-10-14T03:28:08Z

Greg Buckland:

{{breadcrumb|Digital Fabrication|RepLab Tools|Laser Cutter}}

=Introduction=

Lasersaur is an open source [[Laser Cutter]] developed by [http://labs.nortd.com/ Nortd Labs]. [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stefan_Hechenberger Stefan Hechenberger] was a lead contributor.

OSE got a Lasersaur from Stefan in 2013. It was shipped from Europe and sat in the workshop until August 2014.

=Documentation and Support=

The [http://www.lasersaur.com/manual/ Lasersuar manual] has good comprehensive documentation, including BOM, CAD drawings, setup instructions, etc: http://www.lasersaur.com/manual/

The [https://groups.google.com/forum/#!forum/lasersaur Lasersaur Google Group] is an excellent searchable forum for specific questions not answered in the manual: https://groups.google.com/forum/#!forum/lasersaur

=Safety=

''from: http://www.lasersaur.com/manual/start''

The primary risks come from operating a CO2 laser tube. Please operate your first system with a laser source within your level of expertise, even if this is a laser pointer. From there work yourself up until you can safely run a high-powered system.

CO2 lasers involve high-energy infrared beams that may be reflected or scattered and can cause fire on many materials. '''Most importantly lasers may cause permanent damage to the eye. The best way to manage these kinds of risk is wearing protection glasses certified for CO2 wavelength''' and having proper fire extinguishers available at all times.

'''The second danger is high-voltage. Depending on the tube, you are looking at 25000-40000 volts. The power supplies are rated in the 50mA range which puts any electric shocks into lethal territory.''' One might be able to survive such a shock but depending on things like physical condition, length of shock, and the fact that the power supply may actually supply more amps temporarily puts this into the avoid-at-all-costs category. Also note that electricity at '''these voltages jumps through the air for several inches and be aware that the power supplies stay charged after disconnecting them''' from the outlet for quite some time.

Most countries have specific regulation for laser radiation that is typically dependent on the class of laser. Any laser that is suitable for cutting is class 4. Only after proper encasement and applying specifically regulated safety measures will a laser cutter be class 1.

=Coolant Note=

The H20/Propylene Glycol mix that's in the chiller for the Lasersaur (and likewise in the hoses and lasertube) is rated to about 15°F, so it should not be allowed to get that cold. ''The lasertube should be drained before the weather gets much below freezing - if the fluid is allowed to freeze, the tube could be cracked and destroyed''

Get a nice clean container to catch the coolant fluid and disconnect the hoses from the chiller itself, draining the lasertube, but leaving the hoses attached to it. Then, stopper the outlet and inlet on the chiller, pour the drained fluid back into the main coolant chamber, and take the chiller indoors for the winter. Alternately, you could drain the chiller completely, and put the coolant in a container that's OK to freeze (i.e. a soft plastic jug with lots of air space).

=Bill of Materials=

See http://labs.nortd.com/lasersaur/bom-subsystems-usd

=Promotional Video=

<html><object width="400" height="225"><param name="allowfullscreen" value="true" /><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always" /><param name="movie" value="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=23871399&server=vimeo.com&show_title=0&show_byline=0&show_portrait=0&color=00adef&fullscreen=1&autoplay=0&loop=0" /><embed src="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=23871399&server=vimeo.com&show_title=0&show_byline=0&show_portrait=0&color=00adef&fullscreen=1&autoplay=0&loop=0" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" allowscriptaccess="always" width="400" height="225"></embed></object><p><a href="http://vimeo.com/23871399">lasersaur</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/stefanix">stefanix</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p>
</html>

=Links=

[[September 2014 Email with Stefan]] - has some notes on our 40W laser, good safety goggles, ventilation, etc.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/stfnix/5510019543/in/set-72157624491114826

http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/nortd/lasersaur-open-source-laser-cutter-0

http://labs.nortd.com/lasersaur/

Physics lecture about how CO2 lasers work: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-cLSnuXGC_U

Greg Log

2014-09-10T16:05:26Z

Greg Buckland: /* 2014 September 9 Tuesday */

Work log for [[User:Greg Buckland]] who spent 9 weeks here in Summer 2014. See [[Greg Buckland Dedicated Project Visit Application]] for more info about him.

=2014 September 9 Tuesday=
*Successfully attached and ran chiller tubes to CO2 laser:
<html><a href="https://opensourceecology.trovebox.com/p/9j1/token-e8110b7309">
<img src="http://d1odebs29o9vbg.cloudfront.net/custom/201409/IMG_1185-144c15_800x800.jpg" height="300" width="300">
</a></html>

*Setup red laser pointer inline with cutting laser and calibrated mirrors:
<html><a href="https://opensourceecology.trovebox.com/p/9j4/token-2ca5956c95">
<img src="http://d1odebs29o9vbg.cloudfront.net/custom/201409/IMG_1188-5879ec_800x800.jpg" height="300" width="300">
</a></html>

*Created video of red laser calibration process (upload to youtube coming soon)

=2014 September 8 Monday=
*Worked on [[Lasersaur]] all day
*Soldered screw terminals on to laser power cables & attached to CO2 laser electrodes

{| class="wikitable"
|-
|<html>
<a href="https://opensourceecology.trovebox.com/p/9if/token-24dd18b8c4">
<img src="http://d1odebs29o9vbg.cloudfront.net/custom/201409/IMG_1164-3523da_800x800.jpg" height="250" width="250">
</a>
</html>
|<html><a href="https://opensourceecology.trovebox.com/p/9ik/token-57adaa5427">
<img src="http://d1odebs29o9vbg.cloudfront.net/custom/201409/IMG_1169-61adc7_800x800.jpg" height="250" width="250">
</a></html>
|<html><a href="https://opensourceecology.trovebox.com/p/9iq/token-7eb54c1873">
<img src="http://d1odebs29o9vbg.cloudfront.net/custom/201409/IMG_1177-89279c_800x800.jpg" height="250" width="250">
</a></html>
|}

=2014 September 5 Friday=
*Made detailed google drawing of OSE internet infrastructure:

<html>
<img src="https://docs.google.com/drawings/d/1U0eyuOJiLfBfOL4EFjQsNvpmy1jVac4iWjT19ycoa50/pub?w=720&h=540">
</html>

[https://docs.google.com/drawings/d/1U0eyuOJiLfBfOL4EFjQsNvpmy1jVac4iWjT19ycoa50/edit Edit]
*Updated [[Internet]] wiki page
*Worked on setup for [[Lasersaur]] chiller

=2014 September 4 Thursday=
*Ordered two pairs [http://www.lasersafetyindustries.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=100-50-101&CartID=1 CO2 Laser Safety glasses] (for 10,600nm infrared lasers) - should be here Monday at the latest
*Tuned up our internet infrastructure, sketched out existing system by hand
*went shopping in Cameron (Walmart & Sutherland's) for Lasersaur and other supplies

=2014 September 3 Wednesday=
*Cleaned off [[Lasersaur]] table in workshop, inventoried parts, read through [http://www.lasersaur.com/manual/ Lasersaur Manual]
*Turned on power to the board (we detached power to the laser for safety), hooked up to the ethernet and logged in to http://lasersaur.local
*Moved stepper motors around and played with limits of cutter movement
*Assembled and tested air assist (connected and ran compressor and tested solenoid)
*Began to assemble chiller (hooked up and labeled hoses)
*Made shopping list for lasersaur needs
*Emailed Stefan to ask questions
*Began to sketch out schematic for Lasersaur
*Began to flesh out [[Lasersaur]] wiki page a bit more

=2014 Aug 30 Saturday thru 2014 September 2 Tuesday=
*Vacation and road trip to St. Louis with Hilary
=2014 August 29 Friday=
*uploaded version 8 sketchup files for Marcin
*Updated [[Internet, Phone, Domains, Server]] page with log of call and router reset from yesterday.

=2014 August 28 Thursday=
*Called CenturyLink and got HabLab wireless router working again (it needed to be reset by holding the reset button for 45 seconds)
*Updated [[Composting Toilet]] wiki and documentation
*Vacuumed HabLab common areas
*Cleaned solar cabin (right hand side) for Hilary's visit tomorrow
*Repaired bedframe in solar cabin (tack welded broken leg back on)
*Began reading through [[Lasersaur]] documentation / manual
*Continued improving/filling in this worklog

=2014 August 27 Wednesday=
*Moved microhouse lumber from south of new workshop to protected shelter east of old workshop
*Installed lock hardware and vent pipe cap on Composting Toilet
*worked on exploded parts diagram for Structural Powercube [[File:PCSF_vert.skp]]
[[File:draft_PC_expl.png|300px]]
*Began updating this worklog!!
'''IS THIS EXPLODED VERSION UPLOADED?''' - yes: [[File:PCSF_vert.skp]]

=2014 August 26 Tuesday=
*built shelves for my bedroom out of scrap materials
*swarmed on workshop cleanup (moved Microhouse 3 modules into old workshop, moved lumber out of the way, etc.)
*updated Composting Toilet CAD file
*led evening walkthrough/tutorial on Sketchup (walked through CAD drawing of barrel bolt latch design for toilet on the big screen)
[[File:barrel_bolt.png|300px]]
[[File:Barrel Bolt Lock.skp]]

=2014 August 25 Monday=
*completed fabrication of latch hardware for composting toilet
*worked on fabricating earth anchors to stake down the composting toilet (against possible wind intrusion)
*cleaned and dried tents left out in the rain & mud after microhouse workshop

=2014 August 23 Saturday=
*Deep cleaned Hablab kitchen, including dealing with [https://www.facebook.com/groups/1502145196684445/permalink/1519479808284317/ fermented watermelon]
*Swept & vacuumed Hablab living room and Pink room

=2014 August 22 Friday=
*Finished and installed doors, hinges, and door handles on composting toilet
{| class="wikitable"
|-
|[[File:outhouse_complete_small.jpg|190px]]
|[[File:showing_off_toilet_small.jpg|345px]]
|[[File:Composting_Toilet_Sketchup.png|300px]]
|}
*Cleaned up remaining tools and scrap materials at composting toilet site
*Began fabrication/design for barrel bolt latches for doors
*Finished fabricating vent pipe cap

=2014 August 21 Thursday=
*Collected materials on hand for designing and building doors for composting toilet (used scrap 1x lumber and unused 3/4" carsiding)
*Began layout and construction of doors

=2014 August 20 Wednesday=
*Installed handrails on composting toilet
*Patched a few stray roof holes
*Began fabrication of vent pipe cap

=2014 August 19 Tuesday=
*Assisted with Microhouse 3 documentation
*Installed stair stringers and treads.
*Installed vent pipe. 3.5" hole saw from Sutherland's broke within first 30 seconds of use (either mandrel or saw threads stripped immediately, allowing saw to spin freely instead of cut, and preventing removal/replacement of saw on mandrel). Worked around by firmly tightening a 5/8" nut on mandrel threads.

=2014 August 18 Monday=
*Worked on Microhouse 3 documentation, including updating Sketchup files
*Designed & laid out stairs for composting toilet. Revised design to accommodate existing mature tree on site (shortened tread length and steepened stair angle to ~42°)
{| class="wikitable"
|-
|[[File:stair_layout.png|350px]]
|[[File:toilet_stair_sideview.png|300px]]
|}
*Cut stringers for toilet stairs

=2014 August 16 Saturday=
*Purchased materials for composting toilet at Sutherland's: 3.5" hole saw and pipe boot for vent pipe, treated 2x12's for stair stringers

=2014 August 7 thru 12=
*Completed midnight construction of Composting Toilet (installing a step-ladder and curtains instead of permanent stairs and doors)
{| class="wikitable"
|-
|[[File:midnight_toilet1.jpg|250px]]
|[[File:midnight_toilet2.jpg|250px]]
|[[File:midnight_toilet3.jpg|250px]]
|}
*Microshouse 3 workshop
*Supervised workshop during construction of carpentry modules
*Assisted with CAD questions and Dozuki documentation
*Laid bricks and installed window modules at site

=2014 August 7 Thursday=
*Built walls and rafters for [[Composting Toilet]]
*Assembled in workshop with clamps
*Built stand for TV out of scraps from the formwork, setup TV and presentation equipment under geodesic dome in front of HabLab for workshop presentation.
[[File:TV_stand.jpg|200px]]

=2014 August 6 Wednesday=
*Finalized Sketchup design for walls of [[Composting Toilet]] [[File:Composting_Toilet.skp]]
*Built walls and rafters for [[Composting Toilet]] and clamped together for dry fit in workshop
{| class="wikitable"
|-
|[[File:workshop_toilet1.jpg|250px]]
|[[File:workshop_toilet2.jpg|250px]]
|[[File:workshop_toilet3.jpg|250px]]
|}

=2014 August 5 Tuesday=
*Worked on brick pressing crew 7am to 5pm
*Built 2 modules with Curtis (door and window) 10am-3am

=2014 August 4 Monday=
*Worked on brick pressing crew
*Visited site and began site prep for [[Composting Toilet]]
*Began sketchup work for [[Composting Toilet]]
*Worked with Stephen to remove concrete formwork from Microhouse foundation.

=2014 August 1 Friday=
*Completed formwork and assisted with concrete pouring
*Assisted with formwork and concrete pour in front of HabLab

=2014 July 28 Monday=
*Continued carpentry for formwork with Arif. Completed 2x4 frames

=2014 July 25 Friday=
*Continued carpentry for formwork with Victor. Began assembly of 2x4 frames

=2014 July 24 Thursday=
*Started carpentry for formwork: worked with Victor to setup the space, bring materials, get power to the site, and begin planning.

=2014 July 23 Wednesday=
*Returned to Factor-e Farm
*Drove Catarina to St. Joe on a hunt for a new laptop.

=2014 June 16 Monday thru June 20 Friday=
*Wisconsin for CEB Press Workshop, and Midwest Renewable Energy Fair. Returned to Boston June 20.

=2014 June 13 Friday=
*Continued work on 3D printers, CEB Press documentation, prep work for Wisconsin CEB Press workshop.

=2014 June 12 Thursday=
*Worked on master SKP file for CEB Press - working with layers, transparencies, etc. for creating functional schematic
*made 2 simple flat boxes with honeycomb - 1 stop ⅔ through, the other let it complete
*changed nozzle size setting in Slic3r to 0.5mm (and also increased layer hight to 0.5mm) - seems to work better! Seems that AO-100 has 0.5mm nozzle after all.
*worked on making fresher STL file for clampshells from SKP
*attempted ¼ size print - failed catastrophically - drifted in Y-axis, etc. Diagnosis: Z-stop too low, so Z-home presses nozzle too tightly agains the bed. Raised z-stop, and print was much better!

=2014 June 11 Wednesday=
*Presented 3D printing progress, challenges, learnings, including examination of 1st attempt at printing clampshell
*Reviewed [https://docs.google.com/presentation/d/11ZlpOzMNlIssL34HmSo-Q4j0asGqrDSd10Xue7zYJZQ/edit#slide=id.g351b52891_0280 CEB Press Drawer Module assembly instructions] in morning meeting
*Researched converting STEP files to SKP, and added to [[STEP to Sketchup]] wiki page
*Pulled clampshell file from CEB .SKP file, scaled to 1/4 size and exported to STL. Converted to .gcode using Slic3r at 0.75 infill. Print started OK, but about 20% of the way through, it was thrown off of the Y-axis by about 0.5" (20% of the 2.5" length). My working hypothesis is that working in other programs on my computer during the printing caused a serial error. To remedy this (and sleep/screensaver interruptions) I'm going to look into printing from Micro SD Card.
*Very good Micro SD Card printing instructions at the [http://www.lulzbot.com/support/3d-printing-microsd-card LulzBot site]. Successfully test printed bed level check from Micro SD Card.
*Also troubleshot blobby / pad printing on initial error. It was due to too much pressure between printhead and bed - see pictures below. I fixed it by raising the Z-endstop limit screw (see picture) and re-leveling print bed.
*Experimented with layer depth & infill. Found that 0.35 mm layer depth (equal to the nozzle size) works much better than the previous setting (which was 0.2 mm). Also honeycomb infill with a density of 0.3 works quite well for sturdy, relatively quick prints
*Began overnight print of full-size Female Clampshell with 0.3 density honeycomb infill. Fingers crossed!

=2014 June 10 Tuesday=
*Presented 3D printing results at morning meeting
*Began work on CEB Press .SKP
*Worked on Presentation on 3D Printing - [https://docs.google.com/a/opensourceecology.org/presentation/d/1csmBrlVIua4N-r2lH0gmbRBTo3uhPyPOd_EgnBuMY4A/edit#slide=id.g34eeff40f_020]
*Started rudimentary first print of [[File:01-222-00-2.STL]] for overnight printing

=2014 June 9 Monday=
*First day of work. Attended orientation, began worklog, hit the ground running.
*Worked on CEB Press [https://docs.google.com/presentation/d/11ZlpOzMNlIssL34HmSo-Q4j0asGqrDSd10Xue7zYJZQ/edit#slide=id.g34b07977b_617 Drawer Module documentation]
*Oriented self to basic CEB Press operation, brick compression process
*Swarmed on getting 3D printers up and running - worked on HYDRA Lulzbot. Got it connected to computer, leveled printbed pretty well. Ran into troubles with .gcode files - printer randomly stops prematurely, causing print to fail. Looks like Colten had similar troubles: [[Colten Jackson Log]]
*Successfully printed an Octopus on the TAZ out of pink PLA plastic:
[[File:3D print PLA Octopus.jpg|400px]]

=2014 June 8 Sunday=
Arrived at Factor-e Farm. Got settled in, setup living situation, met team.

Greg Log

2014-09-10T15:57:35Z

Greg Buckland:

Work log for [[User:Greg Buckland]] who spent 9 weeks here in Summer 2014. See [[Greg Buckland Dedicated Project Visit Application]] for more info about him.

=2014 September 9 Tuesday=
*

=2014 September 8 Monday=
*Worked on [[Lasersaur]] all day
*Soldered screw terminals on to laser power cables & attached to CO2 laser electrodes

{| class="wikitable"
|-
|<html>
<a href="https://opensourceecology.trovebox.com/p/9if/token-24dd18b8c4">
<img src="http://d1odebs29o9vbg.cloudfront.net/custom/201409/IMG_1164-3523da_800x800.jpg" height="250" width="250">
</a>
</html>
|<html><a href="https://opensourceecology.trovebox.com/p/9ik/token-57adaa5427">
<img src="http://d1odebs29o9vbg.cloudfront.net/custom/201409/IMG_1169-61adc7_800x800.jpg" height="250" width="250">
</a></html>
|<html><a href="https://opensourceecology.trovebox.com/p/9iq/token-7eb54c1873">
<img src="http://d1odebs29o9vbg.cloudfront.net/custom/201409/IMG_1177-89279c_800x800.jpg" height="250" width="250">
</a></html>
|}

=2014 September 5 Friday=
*Made detailed google drawing of OSE internet infrastructure:

<html>
<img src="https://docs.google.com/drawings/d/1U0eyuOJiLfBfOL4EFjQsNvpmy1jVac4iWjT19ycoa50/pub?w=720&h=540">
</html>

[https://docs.google.com/drawings/d/1U0eyuOJiLfBfOL4EFjQsNvpmy1jVac4iWjT19ycoa50/edit Edit]
*Updated [[Internet]] wiki page
*Worked on setup for [[Lasersaur]] chiller

=2014 September 4 Thursday=
*Ordered two pairs [http://www.lasersafetyindustries.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=100-50-101&CartID=1 CO2 Laser Safety glasses] (for 10,600nm infrared lasers) - should be here Monday at the latest
*Tuned up our internet infrastructure, sketched out existing system by hand
*went shopping in Cameron (Walmart & Sutherland's) for Lasersaur and other supplies

=2014 September 3 Wednesday=
*Cleaned off [[Lasersaur]] table in workshop, inventoried parts, read through [http://www.lasersaur.com/manual/ Lasersaur Manual]
*Turned on power to the board (we detached power to the laser for safety), hooked up to the ethernet and logged in to http://lasersaur.local
*Moved stepper motors around and played with limits of cutter movement
*Assembled and tested air assist (connected and ran compressor and tested solenoid)
*Began to assemble chiller (hooked up and labeled hoses)
*Made shopping list for lasersaur needs
*Emailed Stefan to ask questions
*Began to sketch out schematic for Lasersaur
*Began to flesh out [[Lasersaur]] wiki page a bit more

=2014 Aug 30 Saturday thru 2014 September 2 Tuesday=
*Vacation and road trip to St. Louis with Hilary
=2014 August 29 Friday=
*uploaded version 8 sketchup files for Marcin
*Updated [[Internet, Phone, Domains, Server]] page with log of call and router reset from yesterday.

=2014 August 28 Thursday=
*Called CenturyLink and got HabLab wireless router working again (it needed to be reset by holding the reset button for 45 seconds)
*Updated [[Composting Toilet]] wiki and documentation
*Vacuumed HabLab common areas
*Cleaned solar cabin (right hand side) for Hilary's visit tomorrow
*Repaired bedframe in solar cabin (tack welded broken leg back on)
*Began reading through [[Lasersaur]] documentation / manual
*Continued improving/filling in this worklog

=2014 August 27 Wednesday=
*Moved microhouse lumber from south of new workshop to protected shelter east of old workshop
*Installed lock hardware and vent pipe cap on Composting Toilet
*worked on exploded parts diagram for Structural Powercube [[File:PCSF_vert.skp]]
[[File:draft_PC_expl.png|300px]]
*Began updating this worklog!!
'''IS THIS EXPLODED VERSION UPLOADED?''' - yes: [[File:PCSF_vert.skp]]

=2014 August 26 Tuesday=
*built shelves for my bedroom out of scrap materials
*swarmed on workshop cleanup (moved Microhouse 3 modules into old workshop, moved lumber out of the way, etc.)
*updated Composting Toilet CAD file
*led evening walkthrough/tutorial on Sketchup (walked through CAD drawing of barrel bolt latch design for toilet on the big screen)
[[File:barrel_bolt.png|300px]]
[[File:Barrel Bolt Lock.skp]]

=2014 August 25 Monday=
*completed fabrication of latch hardware for composting toilet
*worked on fabricating earth anchors to stake down the composting toilet (against possible wind intrusion)
*cleaned and dried tents left out in the rain & mud after microhouse workshop

=2014 August 23 Saturday=
*Deep cleaned Hablab kitchen, including dealing with [https://www.facebook.com/groups/1502145196684445/permalink/1519479808284317/ fermented watermelon]
*Swept & vacuumed Hablab living room and Pink room

=2014 August 22 Friday=
*Finished and installed doors, hinges, and door handles on composting toilet
{| class="wikitable"
|-
|[[File:outhouse_complete_small.jpg|190px]]
|[[File:showing_off_toilet_small.jpg|345px]]
|[[File:Composting_Toilet_Sketchup.png|300px]]
|}
*Cleaned up remaining tools and scrap materials at composting toilet site
*Began fabrication/design for barrel bolt latches for doors
*Finished fabricating vent pipe cap

=2014 August 21 Thursday=
*Collected materials on hand for designing and building doors for composting toilet (used scrap 1x lumber and unused 3/4" carsiding)
*Began layout and construction of doors

=2014 August 20 Wednesday=
*Installed handrails on composting toilet
*Patched a few stray roof holes
*Began fabrication of vent pipe cap

=2014 August 19 Tuesday=
*Assisted with Microhouse 3 documentation
*Installed stair stringers and treads.
*Installed vent pipe. 3.5" hole saw from Sutherland's broke within first 30 seconds of use (either mandrel or saw threads stripped immediately, allowing saw to spin freely instead of cut, and preventing removal/replacement of saw on mandrel). Worked around by firmly tightening a 5/8" nut on mandrel threads.

=2014 August 18 Monday=
*Worked on Microhouse 3 documentation, including updating Sketchup files
*Designed & laid out stairs for composting toilet. Revised design to accommodate existing mature tree on site (shortened tread length and steepened stair angle to ~42°)
{| class="wikitable"
|-
|[[File:stair_layout.png|350px]]
|[[File:toilet_stair_sideview.png|300px]]
|}
*Cut stringers for toilet stairs

=2014 August 16 Saturday=
*Purchased materials for composting toilet at Sutherland's: 3.5" hole saw and pipe boot for vent pipe, treated 2x12's for stair stringers

=2014 August 7 thru 12=
*Completed midnight construction of Composting Toilet (installing a step-ladder and curtains instead of permanent stairs and doors)
{| class="wikitable"
|-
|[[File:midnight_toilet1.jpg|250px]]
|[[File:midnight_toilet2.jpg|250px]]
|[[File:midnight_toilet3.jpg|250px]]
|}
*Microshouse 3 workshop
*Supervised workshop during construction of carpentry modules
*Assisted with CAD questions and Dozuki documentation
*Laid bricks and installed window modules at site

=2014 August 7 Thursday=
*Built walls and rafters for [[Composting Toilet]]
*Assembled in workshop with clamps
*Built stand for TV out of scraps from the formwork, setup TV and presentation equipment under geodesic dome in front of HabLab for workshop presentation.
[[File:TV_stand.jpg|200px]]

=2014 August 6 Wednesday=
*Finalized Sketchup design for walls of [[Composting Toilet]] [[File:Composting_Toilet.skp]]
*Built walls and rafters for [[Composting Toilet]] and clamped together for dry fit in workshop
{| class="wikitable"
|-
|[[File:workshop_toilet1.jpg|250px]]
|[[File:workshop_toilet2.jpg|250px]]
|[[File:workshop_toilet3.jpg|250px]]
|}

=2014 August 5 Tuesday=
*Worked on brick pressing crew 7am to 5pm
*Built 2 modules with Curtis (door and window) 10am-3am

=2014 August 4 Monday=
*Worked on brick pressing crew
*Visited site and began site prep for [[Composting Toilet]]
*Began sketchup work for [[Composting Toilet]]
*Worked with Stephen to remove concrete formwork from Microhouse foundation.

=2014 August 1 Friday=
*Completed formwork and assisted with concrete pouring
*Assisted with formwork and concrete pour in front of HabLab

=2014 July 28 Monday=
*Continued carpentry for formwork with Arif. Completed 2x4 frames

=2014 July 25 Friday=
*Continued carpentry for formwork with Victor. Began assembly of 2x4 frames

=2014 July 24 Thursday=
*Started carpentry for formwork: worked with Victor to setup the space, bring materials, get power to the site, and begin planning.

=2014 July 23 Wednesday=
*Returned to Factor-e Farm
*Drove Catarina to St. Joe on a hunt for a new laptop.

=2014 June 16 Monday thru June 20 Friday=
*Wisconsin for CEB Press Workshop, and Midwest Renewable Energy Fair. Returned to Boston June 20.

=2014 June 13 Friday=
*Continued work on 3D printers, CEB Press documentation, prep work for Wisconsin CEB Press workshop.

=2014 June 12 Thursday=
*Worked on master SKP file for CEB Press - working with layers, transparencies, etc. for creating functional schematic
*made 2 simple flat boxes with honeycomb - 1 stop ⅔ through, the other let it complete
*changed nozzle size setting in Slic3r to 0.5mm (and also increased layer hight to 0.5mm) - seems to work better! Seems that AO-100 has 0.5mm nozzle after all.
*worked on making fresher STL file for clampshells from SKP
*attempted ¼ size print - failed catastrophically - drifted in Y-axis, etc. Diagnosis: Z-stop too low, so Z-home presses nozzle too tightly agains the bed. Raised z-stop, and print was much better!

=2014 June 11 Wednesday=
*Presented 3D printing progress, challenges, learnings, including examination of 1st attempt at printing clampshell
*Reviewed [https://docs.google.com/presentation/d/11ZlpOzMNlIssL34HmSo-Q4j0asGqrDSd10Xue7zYJZQ/edit#slide=id.g351b52891_0280 CEB Press Drawer Module assembly instructions] in morning meeting
*Researched converting STEP files to SKP, and added to [[STEP to Sketchup]] wiki page
*Pulled clampshell file from CEB .SKP file, scaled to 1/4 size and exported to STL. Converted to .gcode using Slic3r at 0.75 infill. Print started OK, but about 20% of the way through, it was thrown off of the Y-axis by about 0.5" (20% of the 2.5" length). My working hypothesis is that working in other programs on my computer during the printing caused a serial error. To remedy this (and sleep/screensaver interruptions) I'm going to look into printing from Micro SD Card.
*Very good Micro SD Card printing instructions at the [http://www.lulzbot.com/support/3d-printing-microsd-card LulzBot site]. Successfully test printed bed level check from Micro SD Card.
*Also troubleshot blobby / pad printing on initial error. It was due to too much pressure between printhead and bed - see pictures below. I fixed it by raising the Z-endstop limit screw (see picture) and re-leveling print bed.
*Experimented with layer depth & infill. Found that 0.35 mm layer depth (equal to the nozzle size) works much better than the previous setting (which was 0.2 mm). Also honeycomb infill with a density of 0.3 works quite well for sturdy, relatively quick prints
*Began overnight print of full-size Female Clampshell with 0.3 density honeycomb infill. Fingers crossed!

=2014 June 10 Tuesday=
*Presented 3D printing results at morning meeting
*Began work on CEB Press .SKP
*Worked on Presentation on 3D Printing - [https://docs.google.com/a/opensourceecology.org/presentation/d/1csmBrlVIua4N-r2lH0gmbRBTo3uhPyPOd_EgnBuMY4A/edit#slide=id.g34eeff40f_020]
*Started rudimentary first print of [[File:01-222-00-2.STL]] for overnight printing

=2014 June 9 Monday=
*First day of work. Attended orientation, began worklog, hit the ground running.
*Worked on CEB Press [https://docs.google.com/presentation/d/11ZlpOzMNlIssL34HmSo-Q4j0asGqrDSd10Xue7zYJZQ/edit#slide=id.g34b07977b_617 Drawer Module documentation]
*Oriented self to basic CEB Press operation, brick compression process
*Swarmed on getting 3D printers up and running - worked on HYDRA Lulzbot. Got it connected to computer, leveled printbed pretty well. Ran into troubles with .gcode files - printer randomly stops prematurely, causing print to fail. Looks like Colten had similar troubles: [[Colten Jackson Log]]
*Successfully printed an Octopus on the TAZ out of pink PLA plastic:
[[File:3D print PLA Octopus.jpg|400px]]

=2014 June 8 Sunday=
Arrived at Factor-e Farm. Got settled in, setup living situation, met team.

Greg Log

2014-09-05T22:56:45Z

Greg Buckland:

Work log for [[User:Greg Buckland]] who spent 9 weeks here in Summer 2014. See [[Greg Buckland Dedicated Project Visit Application]] for more info about him.

=2014 September 5 Friday=
*Made detailed google drawing of OSE internet infrastructure:

<html>
<img src="https://docs.google.com/drawings/d/1U0eyuOJiLfBfOL4EFjQsNvpmy1jVac4iWjT19ycoa50/pub?w=720&h=540">
</html>

[https://docs.google.com/drawings/d/1U0eyuOJiLfBfOL4EFjQsNvpmy1jVac4iWjT19ycoa50/edit Edit]
*Updated [[Internet]] wiki page
*Worked on setup for [[Lasersaur]] chiller

=2014 September 4 Thursday=
*Ordered two pairs [http://www.lasersafetyindustries.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=100-50-101&CartID=1 CO2 Laser Safety glasses] (for 10,600nm infrared lasers) - should be here Monday at the latest
*Tuned up our internet infrastructure, sketched out existing system by hand
*went shopping in Cameron (Walmart & Sutherland's) for Lasersaur and other supplies

=2014 September 3 Wednesday=
*Cleaned off [[Lasersaur]] table in workshop, inventoried parts, read through [http://www.lasersaur.com/manual/ Lasersaur Manual]
*Turned on power to the board (we detached power to the laser for safety), hooked up to the ethernet and logged in to http://lasersaur.local
*Moved stepper motors around and played with limits of cutter movement
*Assembled and tested air assist (connected and ran compressor and tested solenoid)
*Began to assemble chiller (hooked up and labeled hoses)
*Made shopping list for lasersaur needs
*Emailed Stefan to ask questions
*Began to sketch out schematic for Lasersaur
*Began to flesh out [[Lasersaur]] wiki page a bit more

=2014 Aug 30 Saturday thru 2014 September 2 Tuesday=
*Vacation and road trip to St. Louis with Hilary
=2014 August 29 Friday=
*uploaded version 8 sketchup files for Marcin
*Updated [[Internet, Phone, Domains, Server]] page with log of call and router reset from yesterday.

=2014 August 28 Thursday=
*Called CenturyLink and got HabLab wireless router working again (it needed to be reset by holding the reset button for 45 seconds)
*Updated [[Composting Toilet]] wiki and documentation
*Vacuumed HabLab common areas
*Cleaned solar cabin (right hand side) for Hilary's visit tomorrow
*Repaired bedframe in solar cabin (tack welded broken leg back on)
*Began reading through [[Lasersaur]] documentation / manual
*Continued improving/filling in this worklog

=2014 August 27 Wednesday=
*Moved microhouse lumber from south of new workshop to protected shelter east of old workshop
*Installed lock hardware and vent pipe cap on Composting Toilet
*worked on exploded parts diagram for Structural Powercube [[File:PCSF_vert.skp]]
[[File:draft_PC_expl.png|300px]]
*Began updating this worklog!!
'''IS THIS EXPLODED VERSION UPLOADED?''' - yes: [[File:PCSF_vert.skp]]

=2014 August 26 Tuesday=
*built shelves for my bedroom out of scrap materials
*swarmed on workshop cleanup (moved Microhouse 3 modules into old workshop, moved lumber out of the way, etc.)
*updated Composting Toilet CAD file
*led evening walkthrough/tutorial on Sketchup (walked through CAD drawing of barrel bolt latch design for toilet on the big screen)
[[File:barrel_bolt.png|300px]]
[[File:Barrel Bolt Lock.skp]]

=2014 August 25 Monday=
*completed fabrication of latch hardware for composting toilet
*worked on fabricating earth anchors to stake down the composting toilet (against possible wind intrusion)
*cleaned and dried tents left out in the rain & mud after microhouse workshop

=2014 August 23 Saturday=
*Deep cleaned Hablab kitchen, including dealing with [https://www.facebook.com/groups/1502145196684445/permalink/1519479808284317/ fermented watermelon]
*Swept & vacuumed Hablab living room and Pink room

=2014 August 22 Friday=
*Finished and installed doors, hinges, and door handles on composting toilet
{| class="wikitable"
|-
|[[File:outhouse_complete_small.jpg|190px]]
|[[File:showing_off_toilet_small.jpg|345px]]
|[[File:Composting_Toilet_Sketchup.png|300px]]
|}
*Cleaned up remaining tools and scrap materials at composting toilet site
*Began fabrication/design for barrel bolt latches for doors
*Finished fabricating vent pipe cap

=2014 August 21 Thursday=
*Collected materials on hand for designing and building doors for composting toilet (used scrap 1x lumber and unused 3/4" carsiding)
*Began layout and construction of doors

=2014 August 20 Wednesday=
*Installed handrails on composting toilet
*Patched a few stray roof holes
*Began fabrication of vent pipe cap

=2014 August 19 Tuesday=
*Assisted with Microhouse 3 documentation
*Installed stair stringers and treads.
*Installed vent pipe. 3.5" hole saw from Sutherland's broke within first 30 seconds of use (either mandrel or saw threads stripped immediately, allowing saw to spin freely instead of cut, and preventing removal/replacement of saw on mandrel). Worked around by firmly tightening a 5/8" nut on mandrel threads.

=2014 August 18 Monday=
*Worked on Microhouse 3 documentation, including updating Sketchup files
*Designed & laid out stairs for composting toilet. Revised design to accommodate existing mature tree on site (shortened tread length and steepened stair angle to ~42°)
{| class="wikitable"
|-
|[[File:stair_layout.png|350px]]
|[[File:toilet_stair_sideview.png|300px]]
|}
*Cut stringers for toilet stairs

=2014 August 16 Saturday=
*Purchased materials for composting toilet at Sutherland's: 3.5" hole saw and pipe boot for vent pipe, treated 2x12's for stair stringers

=2014 August 7 thru 12=
*Completed midnight construction of Composting Toilet (installing a step-ladder and curtains instead of permanent stairs and doors)
{| class="wikitable"
|-
|[[File:midnight_toilet1.jpg|250px]]
|[[File:midnight_toilet2.jpg|250px]]
|[[File:midnight_toilet3.jpg|250px]]
|}
*Microshouse 3 workshop
*Supervised workshop during construction of carpentry modules
*Assisted with CAD questions and Dozuki documentation
*Laid bricks and installed window modules at site

=2014 August 7 Thursday=
*Built walls and rafters for [[Composting Toilet]]
*Assembled in workshop with clamps
*Built stand for TV out of scraps from the formwork, setup TV and presentation equipment under geodesic dome in front of HabLab for workshop presentation.
[[File:TV_stand.jpg|200px]]

=2014 August 6 Wednesday=
*Finalized Sketchup design for walls of [[Composting Toilet]] [[File:Composting_Toilet.skp]]
*Built walls and rafters for [[Composting Toilet]] and clamped together for dry fit in workshop
{| class="wikitable"
|-
|[[File:workshop_toilet1.jpg|250px]]
|[[File:workshop_toilet2.jpg|250px]]
|[[File:workshop_toilet3.jpg|250px]]
|}

=2014 August 5 Tuesday=
*Worked on brick pressing crew 7am to 5pm
*Built 2 modules with Curtis (door and window) 10am-3am

=2014 August 4 Monday=
*Worked on brick pressing crew
*Visited site and began site prep for [[Composting Toilet]]
*Began sketchup work for [[Composting Toilet]]
*Worked with Stephen to remove concrete formwork from Microhouse foundation.

=2014 August 1 Friday=
*Completed formwork and assisted with concrete pouring
*Assisted with formwork and concrete pour in front of HabLab

=2014 July 28 Monday=
*Continued carpentry for formwork with Arif. Completed 2x4 frames

=2014 July 25 Friday=
*Continued carpentry for formwork with Victor. Began assembly of 2x4 frames

=2014 July 24 Thursday=
*Started carpentry for formwork: worked with Victor to setup the space, bring materials, get power to the site, and begin planning.

=2014 July 23 Wednesday=
*Returned to Factor-e Farm
*Drove Catarina to St. Joe on a hunt for a new laptop.

=2014 June 16 Monday thru June 20 Friday=
*Wisconsin for CEB Press Workshop, and Midwest Renewable Energy Fair. Returned to Boston June 20.

=2014 June 13 Friday=
*Continued work on 3D printers, CEB Press documentation, prep work for Wisconsin CEB Press workshop.

=2014 June 12 Thursday=
*Worked on master SKP file for CEB Press - working with layers, transparencies, etc. for creating functional schematic
*made 2 simple flat boxes with honeycomb - 1 stop ⅔ through, the other let it complete
*changed nozzle size setting in Slic3r to 0.5mm (and also increased layer hight to 0.5mm) - seems to work better! Seems that AO-100 has 0.5mm nozzle after all.
*worked on making fresher STL file for clampshells from SKP
*attempted ¼ size print - failed catastrophically - drifted in Y-axis, etc. Diagnosis: Z-stop too low, so Z-home presses nozzle too tightly agains the bed. Raised z-stop, and print was much better!

=2014 June 11 Wednesday=
*Presented 3D printing progress, challenges, learnings, including examination of 1st attempt at printing clampshell
*Reviewed [https://docs.google.com/presentation/d/11ZlpOzMNlIssL34HmSo-Q4j0asGqrDSd10Xue7zYJZQ/edit#slide=id.g351b52891_0280 CEB Press Drawer Module assembly instructions] in morning meeting
*Researched converting STEP files to SKP, and added to [[STEP to Sketchup]] wiki page
*Pulled clampshell file from CEB .SKP file, scaled to 1/4 size and exported to STL. Converted to .gcode using Slic3r at 0.75 infill. Print started OK, but about 20% of the way through, it was thrown off of the Y-axis by about 0.5" (20% of the 2.5" length). My working hypothesis is that working in other programs on my computer during the printing caused a serial error. To remedy this (and sleep/screensaver interruptions) I'm going to look into printing from Micro SD Card.
*Very good Micro SD Card printing instructions at the [http://www.lulzbot.com/support/3d-printing-microsd-card LulzBot site]. Successfully test printed bed level check from Micro SD Card.
*Also troubleshot blobby / pad printing on initial error. It was due to too much pressure between printhead and bed - see pictures below. I fixed it by raising the Z-endstop limit screw (see picture) and re-leveling print bed.
*Experimented with layer depth & infill. Found that 0.35 mm layer depth (equal to the nozzle size) works much better than the previous setting (which was 0.2 mm). Also honeycomb infill with a density of 0.3 works quite well for sturdy, relatively quick prints
*Began overnight print of full-size Female Clampshell with 0.3 density honeycomb infill. Fingers crossed!

=2014 June 10 Tuesday=
*Presented 3D printing results at morning meeting
*Began work on CEB Press .SKP
*Worked on Presentation on 3D Printing - [https://docs.google.com/a/opensourceecology.org/presentation/d/1csmBrlVIua4N-r2lH0gmbRBTo3uhPyPOd_EgnBuMY4A/edit#slide=id.g34eeff40f_020]
*Started rudimentary first print of [[File:01-222-00-2.STL]] for overnight printing

=2014 June 9 Monday=
*First day of work. Attended orientation, began worklog, hit the ground running.
*Worked on CEB Press [https://docs.google.com/presentation/d/11ZlpOzMNlIssL34HmSo-Q4j0asGqrDSd10Xue7zYJZQ/edit#slide=id.g34b07977b_617 Drawer Module documentation]
*Oriented self to basic CEB Press operation, brick compression process
*Swarmed on getting 3D printers up and running - worked on HYDRA Lulzbot. Got it connected to computer, leveled printbed pretty well. Ran into troubles with .gcode files - printer randomly stops prematurely, causing print to fail. Looks like Colten had similar troubles: [[Colten Jackson Log]]
*Successfully printed an Octopus on the TAZ out of pink PLA plastic:
[[File:3D print PLA Octopus.jpg|400px]]

=2014 June 8 Sunday=
Arrived at Factor-e Farm. Got settled in, setup living situation, met team.

Lasersaur

2014-09-05T21:01:18Z

Greg Buckland:

{{breadcrumb|Digital Fabrication|RepLab Tools|Laser Cutter}}

=Introduction=

Lasersaur is an open source [[Laser Cutter]] developed by [http://labs.nortd.com/ Nortd Labs]. [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stefan_Hechenberger Stefan Hechenberger] was a lead contributor.

OSE got a Lasersaur from Stefan in 2013. It was shipped from Europe and sat in the workshop until August 2014.

=Documentation and Support=

The [http://www.lasersaur.com/manual/ Lasersuar manual] has good comprehensive documentation, including BOM, CAD drawings, setup instructions, etc: http://www.lasersaur.com/manual/

The [https://groups.google.com/forum/#!forum/lasersaur Lasersaur Google Group] is an excellent searchable forum for specific questions not answered in the manual: https://groups.google.com/forum/#!forum/lasersaur

=Safety=

''from: http://www.lasersaur.com/manual/start''

The primary risks come from operating a CO2 laser tube. Please operate your first system with a laser source within your level of expertise, even if this is a laser pointer. From there work yourself up until you can safely run a high-powered system.

CO2 lasers involve high-energy infrared beams that may be reflected or scattered and can cause fire on many materials. '''Most importantly lasers may cause permanent damage to the eye. The best way to manage these kinds of risk is wearing protection glasses certified for CO2 wavelength''' and having proper fire extinguishers available at all times.

'''The second danger is high-voltage. Depending on the tube, you are looking at 25000-40000 volts. The power supplies are rated in the 50mA range which puts any electric shocks into lethal territory.''' One might be able to survive such a shock but depending on things like physical condition, length of shock, and the fact that the power supply may actually supply more amps temporarily puts this into the avoid-at-all-costs category. Also note that electricity at '''these voltages jumps through the air for several inches and be aware that the power supplies stay charged after disconnecting them''' from the outlet for quite some time.

Most countries have specific regulation for laser radiation that is typically dependent on the class of laser. Any laser that is suitable for cutting is class 4. Only after proper encasement and applying specifically regulated safety measures will a laser cutter be class 1.

=Bill of Materials=

See http://labs.nortd.com/lasersaur/bom-subsystems-usd

=Promotional Video=

<html><object width="400" height="225"><param name="allowfullscreen" value="true" /><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always" /><param name="movie" value="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=23871399&server=vimeo.com&show_title=0&show_byline=0&show_portrait=0&color=00adef&fullscreen=1&autoplay=0&loop=0" /><embed src="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=23871399&server=vimeo.com&show_title=0&show_byline=0&show_portrait=0&color=00adef&fullscreen=1&autoplay=0&loop=0" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" allowscriptaccess="always" width="400" height="225"></embed></object><p><a href="http://vimeo.com/23871399">lasersaur</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/stefanix">stefanix</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p>
</html>

=Links=

[[September 2014 Email with Stefan]] - has some notes on our 40W laser, good safety goggles, ventilation, etc.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/stfnix/5510019543/in/set-72157624491114826

http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/nortd/lasersaur-open-source-laser-cutter-0

http://labs.nortd.com/lasersaur/

Physics lecture about how CO2 lasers work: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-cLSnuXGC_U

OSE Internet

2014-09-05T20:37:24Z

Greg Buckland: /* Internet and Phone Diagram */

=Domains and Server=

*Pingdom monitors wiki URL, sending notifications to webadmin@opensourceecology.org and ops@opensourceecology.org. Uptime Robot monitors wiki and forum URLs, sending notifications to webadmin@opensourceecology.org. Hetzner is OSE’s server, Client ID: C0704628411, Support number: +49 (0) 9831 61006-1. Report to issues to Executive Staff.

*Hetzner is OSE’s server, see hard-copy information in HabLab office.

/are any of these working? i tried them all this past week at diff hours in the day without any response :(

=Internet and Phone=
*Lines - (816) 449-1226,for microhouse, (816) 449-1224 for HabLab, and (816) 449-2045 for huts/workshop
*'''For all issues call CenturyLink help''' - 800.809.1410, Press 2 for existing customers, Press 5 for repair and tech support
**official speed test - http://lasvegas.speedtest.centurylink.net/
**Independent HTML5-based speed test - http://speedof.me/
*Customer care, such as extra lines - 800.788.3500
*Tony F - internet line technician - 816.244.7803
The account number is our telephone number: 8164491224, and second one, 816.2045

=Internet and Phone Diagram=
''Accurate as of 2014-09-04''. Created by [[User:Greg_Buckland]]

<html>
<img src="https://docs.google.com/drawings/d/1U0eyuOJiLfBfOL4EFjQsNvpmy1jVac4iWjT19ycoa50/pub?w=720&h=540">
</html>

Click [https://docs.google.com/drawings/d/1U0eyuOJiLfBfOL4EFjQsNvpmy1jVac4iWjT19ycoa50/edit?usp=sharing here to edit]

=Log=

==Thu Aug 28, 2014==
HabLab router had been down for about 1 week. It had green lights for "power" and "dsl", but a steady red light for "Internet". Not broadcasting an SSID. Called CenturyLink at 800.809.1410. Tech help walked me through the reset process:
*unplug router for 30 sec and plug back in (soft reset).
*If that doesn't help (it didn't), then with power plugged in, press the red reset button (with a pen or paperclip) and hold it for 45 sec (factory reset). It then reverts to factory settings (e.g SSID: CenturyLink7668 and default password). All the factory settings info is on the boilerplate on the bottom of the router.
*Then you can log in to the router (ideally via hard wired ethernet connection) and change SSID to "HabLab" and security to "none".

==Thu Feb 13, 2014==
Call to Century Link on January 8, 2014 at 877.744.4416. Spoke with Leslie. Discussed various options and decided to go on "inactive" status at $51/month plus tax. Allowed to remain on that status for 9 months. -- To reactivate it would take about 3 days. Call 866-614-5166 to reactivate, cancel, or change service. Service changed to a $116 plan per month with a $10 discount for 10 months, so about $106 for the next 12 months. The internet only line needs to be renegotiated in 1 year of time to retain $35/month fee. Need to consider satellite line for more internet.

== Information==

As of February, 2014:

*Voice - 8164491224

==Information and Action on Sep 23, 2013==
*Phone and Internet down, CenturyLink sending technician by 11AM CST Sep 24 (Tuesday)
**Road construction on SW Willow is possibly the cause

==Information and Action on Sep 16, 2013==
*Called support: 1-800-786-6272 and spoke to Reggie; determined the OSEtwo DSL line is 8164492307; this line is not appearing remotely so they require someone to hard-wire in to the modem. to change the password. Since there is no phone down there...I would have to run back and forth to get troubleshooting step instructions. This is not a viable option. 1) We need a phone down there. 2) We should migrate the line from the mosquito hut to the workshop so the workshop has connectivity throughout and install a phone on the line.
Over to Katie.

==Information and Action on Sep 13, 2013==
*Internet lines changed to OSEone and OSEtwo - No reason for change other than called Centurylink to troubleshoot connectiviey problems and the representative made the changes without prompting.
**Password for both lines is maysville2013
*Still have the HabLab line, which the representative said he changed to OSEone

==Information and Action on Aug 22, 2013==
*CenturyLink tech installed new wireless modem

==Information and Action on Aug 21, 2013==
*Spoke with CenturyLink support:
**Learned that one of OSE internet lines has been ''on vacation'' since Feb 2013. This was not communicated during previous calls to CenturyLink on July 12, 2013. To compensate, CenturyLink is providing internet service for 1 year at a discount rate. The rate expires and increases on August 22, 2014; order number associated: 1182581932
*During technical assistance call:
**Troubleshoot DSL/phone line filter. Filter is not the problem.
**CenturyLink verified the problem is not a programing issue.
**Intermittent sync - speed issue on customer end, so tech will verify surfing speed with customer on location - no later than 340PM CST, ticket number 6152743

=Internet Line 1 - Cordwood=
*Internet line fixed from 1.5 to 4MB on 4/12/14.
*We got a wireless bridge -

'''The Problem'''

Factor e Farm needs a network solution that allows OSE to connect the various buildings that are currently on site as well as buildings that will be added in the future.

'''Century Link Router'''

The only real purpose of this router is to serve as a modem to the DSL connection from the internet service provider (ISP). This router is operating as the DHCP server for the HabLab network, meaning that it is providing IP addresses for any wireless repeaters or access points that are added to the network (including the TP-Link WiFi router I set up on 3/13/14). This router is not broadcasting a WiFi network.

'''Linksys WRT54GL'''

This piece of hardware is running Tomato as its operating system, an open source router administration program. It is located in the shelves and connected by eth0 to the CenturyLink pk5001a modem in the mud hut. It is set up to operate as an access point for the HabLab network. The SSID is 'wireless.'

'''Testing'''

I managed to successfully connect to the Internet through the TP-Link router using this system. Testing in the Microhouse was a minor success as the internet connection worked, but was exceedingly slow. I decided this was most likely due to the TP-Link not having the range to comminicate back to the Linksys switch. I advised Marcin to connect a directional antenna to the TP-Link to solve this problem. I also suspect the signal is being hampered by brush and tree branches; placing it in a high, clear position should improve this.

'''Results'''

<html><img src="https://docs.google.com/drawings/d/1nG7w75a__K0oBkolESkWKzUQfVVA8CZXdx1_IVBAnt8/pub?w=426&h=320"></html>

[https://docs.google.com/drawings/d/1nG7w75a__K0oBkolESkWKzUQfVVA8CZXdx1_IVBAnt8/edit edit]

This system is operational and provides OSE with a good basis to design more advance networking solutions. The Linksys WR54GL is extremely versatile with Tomato installed, but is limited to the 802.11b/g protocols. This means the point-to-point connections will be limited to 54 Mbps; sufficient for now (the dsl connection only gets speeds of 4.0 Mbps), but it will turn into a bottle-neck as the network continues to scale up.

'''The Next Steps'''

Based on these results, it seems it would be relatively easy to connect many sites around Factor e Farm using a similar combination of point-to-point and localized WiFi networks. It should also be possible to build a mesh network using Tomato-enabled Linksys routers, [http://www.dslreports.com/forum/r22572390-Tomato-Building-a-Wireless-Mesh-Network-Routers-wired something like what is described here]

=HabLab Line=
*4MB working internet, 3/11/14

=Communications=
Ben to Marcin -

I have attached all of the configuration materials for the routers at Factor e Farm, and I've updated the wiki page for OSE Internet with a description of what I did on Thursday. I think this should be enough information for you to get access to everything and make any changes that are needed. I also wanted to let you know I took down some of the pictures. I'm not entirely sure if sharing MAC addresses can be a security risk or not, so I figured it would be safer to remove them.

One thing that I didn't have time for was to password protect the two WiFi networks, and like I said this can be a significant privacy issue. I recommend you set up WPA2 Personal security on both the HabLab and OSEone networks.

HabLab

*If you are connected to the HabLab network you should be able to access everything through wifi, otherwise you can just connect to a device using an ethernet cable. The security for this network needs to be set through the Linksys Router (the admin details are in the txt attachement).
*Connect to the router through it's IP address.
*Click 'Basic' on the left sidebar
*Scroll down to the wireless section.
*Choose the drop down menu labeled security.
*Select WAP2 Personal/Enterprise
*Enter the desired password.
*The network might work fine after this point, but you might need to reconfigure the TP-Link to connect again. This can be done by just running through the initial set up on the device and telling it to work as a repeater for the HabLab network.

OSEOne

You can set the password for this network through the Century Link router in the HabLab. The login details for this are on the bottom of the router.

I wish I had more time to spend on the network while I was there, but regardless, doing this has given me a lot of ideas for things I could be set up to improve the network around the farm. With all of the construction you guys are looking to do this year, it would probably be beneficial to get internet services to each area. What I set up last Thursday could form the groundwork for a mesh network at Factor e Farm to connect everything.

I think I am going to spend some time in the coming weeks looking into what it would take to scale up something like what I did for the MicroHouse. It looks possible to create a network that would connect the HabLab, the two workshops, campsite, and any Microhouses or other structures together.

=Ethernet Cablling info=

*Basics of Ethernet Cabling: http://www.petri.co.il/csc_the_basics_of_ethernet_cabling.htm
*Basics of Data-moving Layers: http://www.pcmag.com/article2/0,2817,2307006,00.asp
*'''Maximum Recommended cable lengths before repeater (switch/router/hub) is required:
**'''Cat5e: 75m'''
**'''Cat5: 100m'''
**'''Cat6: 100m'''

=Equipment Links=
*zBoost cell phone booster - [http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003VOW5WI/ref=pe_385040_30332200_pe_309540_26725410_item]
*TP Link Access Point - [http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002YETVXC/ref=pe_385040_30332200_pe_309540_26725410_item] - 3*5dBi Detachable Omni Directional (RP-SMA) - [http://www.tp-link.com/resources/document/TL-WA901ND_V3_Datasheet.pdf]
*Directional Antenna - [http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CJ1IARI/ref=pe_385040_30332190_TE_3p_M3T1_ST1_dp_1] - RP-SMA Connection to Router/Access Point)

=Links=
*Support/tech phone for Centurytel - [[Internet, Phone, Domains, Server]]
*Network Setup - [https://docs.google.com/a/opensourceecology.org/document/d/1HTkBVB8_WUvuUnHUH0zK313SqV2wcr6_fe17Z7qzT40/edit]
*[[OSE_Network_Plan_2014]]

OSE Internet

2014-09-05T20:35:48Z

Greg Buckland:

=Domains and Server=

*Pingdom monitors wiki URL, sending notifications to webadmin@opensourceecology.org and ops@opensourceecology.org. Uptime Robot monitors wiki and forum URLs, sending notifications to webadmin@opensourceecology.org. Hetzner is OSE’s server, Client ID: C0704628411, Support number: +49 (0) 9831 61006-1. Report to issues to Executive Staff.

*Hetzner is OSE’s server, see hard-copy information in HabLab office.

/are any of these working? i tried them all this past week at diff hours in the day without any response :(

=Internet and Phone=
*Lines - (816) 449-1226,for microhouse, (816) 449-1224 for HabLab, and (816) 449-2045 for huts/workshop
*'''For all issues call CenturyLink help''' - 800.809.1410, Press 2 for existing customers, Press 5 for repair and tech support
**official speed test - http://lasvegas.speedtest.centurylink.net/
**Independent HTML5-based speed test - http://speedof.me/
*Customer care, such as extra lines - 800.788.3500
*Tony F - internet line technician - 816.244.7803
The account number is our telephone number: 8164491224, and second one, 816.2045

=Internet and Phone Diagram=
''Accurate as of 2014-09-04''. Created by [[User:Greg_Buckland]]

Click [https://docs.google.com/drawings/d/1U0eyuOJiLfBfOL4EFjQsNvpmy1jVac4iWjT19ycoa50/edit?usp=sharing here for google drawing of diagram]

<html>
<img src="https://docs.google.com/drawings/d/1U0eyuOJiLfBfOL4EFjQsNvpmy1jVac4iWjT19ycoa50/pub?w=720&h=540">
</html>

=Log=

==Thu Aug 28, 2014==
HabLab router had been down for about 1 week. It had green lights for "power" and "dsl", but a steady red light for "Internet". Not broadcasting an SSID. Called CenturyLink at 800.809.1410. Tech help walked me through the reset process:
*unplug router for 30 sec and plug back in (soft reset).
*If that doesn't help (it didn't), then with power plugged in, press the red reset button (with a pen or paperclip) and hold it for 45 sec (factory reset). It then reverts to factory settings (e.g SSID: CenturyLink7668 and default password). All the factory settings info is on the boilerplate on the bottom of the router.
*Then you can log in to the router (ideally via hard wired ethernet connection) and change SSID to "HabLab" and security to "none".

==Thu Feb 13, 2014==
Call to Century Link on January 8, 2014 at 877.744.4416. Spoke with Leslie. Discussed various options and decided to go on "inactive" status at $51/month plus tax. Allowed to remain on that status for 9 months. -- To reactivate it would take about 3 days. Call 866-614-5166 to reactivate, cancel, or change service. Service changed to a $116 plan per month with a $10 discount for 10 months, so about $106 for the next 12 months. The internet only line needs to be renegotiated in 1 year of time to retain $35/month fee. Need to consider satellite line for more internet.

== Information==

As of February, 2014:

*Voice - 8164491224

==Information and Action on Sep 23, 2013==
*Phone and Internet down, CenturyLink sending technician by 11AM CST Sep 24 (Tuesday)
**Road construction on SW Willow is possibly the cause

==Information and Action on Sep 16, 2013==
*Called support: 1-800-786-6272 and spoke to Reggie; determined the OSEtwo DSL line is 8164492307; this line is not appearing remotely so they require someone to hard-wire in to the modem. to change the password. Since there is no phone down there...I would have to run back and forth to get troubleshooting step instructions. This is not a viable option. 1) We need a phone down there. 2) We should migrate the line from the mosquito hut to the workshop so the workshop has connectivity throughout and install a phone on the line.
Over to Katie.

==Information and Action on Sep 13, 2013==
*Internet lines changed to OSEone and OSEtwo - No reason for change other than called Centurylink to troubleshoot connectiviey problems and the representative made the changes without prompting.
**Password for both lines is maysville2013
*Still have the HabLab line, which the representative said he changed to OSEone

==Information and Action on Aug 22, 2013==
*CenturyLink tech installed new wireless modem

==Information and Action on Aug 21, 2013==
*Spoke with CenturyLink support:
**Learned that one of OSE internet lines has been ''on vacation'' since Feb 2013. This was not communicated during previous calls to CenturyLink on July 12, 2013. To compensate, CenturyLink is providing internet service for 1 year at a discount rate. The rate expires and increases on August 22, 2014; order number associated: 1182581932
*During technical assistance call:
**Troubleshoot DSL/phone line filter. Filter is not the problem.
**CenturyLink verified the problem is not a programing issue.
**Intermittent sync - speed issue on customer end, so tech will verify surfing speed with customer on location - no later than 340PM CST, ticket number 6152743

=Internet Line 1 - Cordwood=
*Internet line fixed from 1.5 to 4MB on 4/12/14.
*We got a wireless bridge -

'''The Problem'''

Factor e Farm needs a network solution that allows OSE to connect the various buildings that are currently on site as well as buildings that will be added in the future.

'''Century Link Router'''

The only real purpose of this router is to serve as a modem to the DSL connection from the internet service provider (ISP). This router is operating as the DHCP server for the HabLab network, meaning that it is providing IP addresses for any wireless repeaters or access points that are added to the network (including the TP-Link WiFi router I set up on 3/13/14). This router is not broadcasting a WiFi network.

'''Linksys WRT54GL'''

This piece of hardware is running Tomato as its operating system, an open source router administration program. It is located in the shelves and connected by eth0 to the CenturyLink pk5001a modem in the mud hut. It is set up to operate as an access point for the HabLab network. The SSID is 'wireless.'

'''Testing'''

I managed to successfully connect to the Internet through the TP-Link router using this system. Testing in the Microhouse was a minor success as the internet connection worked, but was exceedingly slow. I decided this was most likely due to the TP-Link not having the range to comminicate back to the Linksys switch. I advised Marcin to connect a directional antenna to the TP-Link to solve this problem. I also suspect the signal is being hampered by brush and tree branches; placing it in a high, clear position should improve this.

'''Results'''

<html><img src="https://docs.google.com/drawings/d/1nG7w75a__K0oBkolESkWKzUQfVVA8CZXdx1_IVBAnt8/pub?w=426&h=320"></html>

[https://docs.google.com/drawings/d/1nG7w75a__K0oBkolESkWKzUQfVVA8CZXdx1_IVBAnt8/edit edit]

This system is operational and provides OSE with a good basis to design more advance networking solutions. The Linksys WR54GL is extremely versatile with Tomato installed, but is limited to the 802.11b/g protocols. This means the point-to-point connections will be limited to 54 Mbps; sufficient for now (the dsl connection only gets speeds of 4.0 Mbps), but it will turn into a bottle-neck as the network continues to scale up.

'''The Next Steps'''

Based on these results, it seems it would be relatively easy to connect many sites around Factor e Farm using a similar combination of point-to-point and localized WiFi networks. It should also be possible to build a mesh network using Tomato-enabled Linksys routers, [http://www.dslreports.com/forum/r22572390-Tomato-Building-a-Wireless-Mesh-Network-Routers-wired something like what is described here]

=HabLab Line=
*4MB working internet, 3/11/14

=Communications=
Ben to Marcin -

I have attached all of the configuration materials for the routers at Factor e Farm, and I've updated the wiki page for OSE Internet with a description of what I did on Thursday. I think this should be enough information for you to get access to everything and make any changes that are needed. I also wanted to let you know I took down some of the pictures. I'm not entirely sure if sharing MAC addresses can be a security risk or not, so I figured it would be safer to remove them.

One thing that I didn't have time for was to password protect the two WiFi networks, and like I said this can be a significant privacy issue. I recommend you set up WPA2 Personal security on both the HabLab and OSEone networks.

HabLab

*If you are connected to the HabLab network you should be able to access everything through wifi, otherwise you can just connect to a device using an ethernet cable. The security for this network needs to be set through the Linksys Router (the admin details are in the txt attachement).
*Connect to the router through it's IP address.
*Click 'Basic' on the left sidebar
*Scroll down to the wireless section.
*Choose the drop down menu labeled security.
*Select WAP2 Personal/Enterprise
*Enter the desired password.
*The network might work fine after this point, but you might need to reconfigure the TP-Link to connect again. This can be done by just running through the initial set up on the device and telling it to work as a repeater for the HabLab network.

OSEOne

You can set the password for this network through the Century Link router in the HabLab. The login details for this are on the bottom of the router.

I wish I had more time to spend on the network while I was there, but regardless, doing this has given me a lot of ideas for things I could be set up to improve the network around the farm. With all of the construction you guys are looking to do this year, it would probably be beneficial to get internet services to each area. What I set up last Thursday could form the groundwork for a mesh network at Factor e Farm to connect everything.

I think I am going to spend some time in the coming weeks looking into what it would take to scale up something like what I did for the MicroHouse. It looks possible to create a network that would connect the HabLab, the two workshops, campsite, and any Microhouses or other structures together.

=Ethernet Cablling info=

*Basics of Ethernet Cabling: http://www.petri.co.il/csc_the_basics_of_ethernet_cabling.htm
*Basics of Data-moving Layers: http://www.pcmag.com/article2/0,2817,2307006,00.asp
*'''Maximum Recommended cable lengths before repeater (switch/router/hub) is required:
**'''Cat5e: 75m'''
**'''Cat5: 100m'''
**'''Cat6: 100m'''

=Equipment Links=
*zBoost cell phone booster - [http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003VOW5WI/ref=pe_385040_30332200_pe_309540_26725410_item]
*TP Link Access Point - [http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002YETVXC/ref=pe_385040_30332200_pe_309540_26725410_item] - 3*5dBi Detachable Omni Directional (RP-SMA) - [http://www.tp-link.com/resources/document/TL-WA901ND_V3_Datasheet.pdf]
*Directional Antenna - [http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CJ1IARI/ref=pe_385040_30332190_TE_3p_M3T1_ST1_dp_1] - RP-SMA Connection to Router/Access Point)

=Links=
*Support/tech phone for Centurytel - [[Internet, Phone, Domains, Server]]
*Network Setup - [https://docs.google.com/a/opensourceecology.org/document/d/1HTkBVB8_WUvuUnHUH0zK313SqV2wcr6_fe17Z7qzT40/edit]
*[[OSE_Network_Plan_2014]]

Internet

2014-09-05T20:32:21Z

Greg Buckland: Redirected page to Internet, Phone, Domains, Server

#REDIRECT [[Internet, Phone, Domains, Server]]

OSE Internet

2014-09-05T20:23:50Z

Greg Buckland: /* Internet and Phone Diagram */

=Domains and Server=

*Pingdom monitors wiki URL, sending notifications to webadmin@opensourceecology.org and ops@opensourceecology.org. Uptime Robot monitors wiki and forum URLs, sending notifications to webadmin@opensourceecology.org. Hetzner is OSE’s server, Client ID: C0704628411, Support number: +49 (0) 9831 61006-1. Report to issues to Executive Staff.

*Hetzner is OSE’s server, see hard-copy information in HabLab office.

/are any of these working? i tried them all this past week at diff hours in the day without any response :(

=Internet and Phone=
*Lines - (816) 449-1226,for microhouse, (816) 449-1224 for HabLab, and (816) 449-2045 for huts/workshop
*'''For all issues call CenturyLink help''' - 800.809.1410, Press 2 for existing customers, Press 5 for repair and tech support
**official speed test - http://lasvegas.speedtest.centurylink.net/
**Independent HTML5-based speed test - http://speedof.me/
*Customer care, such as extra lines - 800.788.3500
*Tony F - internet line technician - 816.244.7803
The account number is our telephone number: 8164491224, and second one, 816.2045

=Internet and Phone Diagram=
''Accurate as of 2014-09-04''. Created by [[User:Greg_Buckland]]

Click [https://docs.google.com/drawings/d/1U0eyuOJiLfBfOL4EFjQsNvpmy1jVac4iWjT19ycoa50/edit?usp=sharing here for google drawing of diagram]

<html>
<img src="https://docs.google.com/drawings/d/1U0eyuOJiLfBfOL4EFjQsNvpmy1jVac4iWjT19ycoa50/pub?w=720&h=540">
</html>

=Log=

==Thu Aug 28, 2014==
HabLab router had been down for about 1 week. It had green lights for "power" and "dsl", but a steady red light for "Internet". Not broadcasting an SSID. Called CenturyLink at 800.809.1410. Tech help walked me through the reset process:
*unplug router for 30 sec and plug back in (soft reset).
*If that doesn't help (it didn't), then with power plugged in, press the red reset button (with a pen or paperclip) and hold it for 45 sec (factory reset). It then reverts to factory settings (e.g SSID: CenturyLink7668 and default password). All the factory settings info is on the boilerplate on the bottom of the router.
*Then you can log in to the router (ideally via hard wired ethernet connection) and change SSID to "HabLab" and security to "none".

==Thu Feb 13, 2014==
Call to Century Link on January 8, 2014 at 877.744.4416. Spoke with Leslie. Discussed various options and decided to go on "inactive" status at $51/month plus tax. Allowed to remain on that status for 9 months. -- To reactivate it would take about 3 days. Call 866-614-5166 to reactivate, cancel, or change service. Service changed to a $116 plan per month with a $10 discount for 10 months, so about $106 for the next 12 months. The internet only line needs to be renegotiated in 1 year of time to retain $35/month fee. Need to consider satellite line for more internet.

== Information==

As of February, 2014:

*Voice - 8164491224

==Information and Action on Sep 23, 2013==
*Phone and Internet down, CenturyLink sending technician by 11AM CST Sep 24 (Tuesday)
**Road construction on SW Willow is possibly the cause

==Information and Action on Sep 16, 2013==
*Called support: 1-800-786-6272 and spoke to Reggie; determined the OSEtwo DSL line is 8164492307; this line is not appearing remotely so they require someone to hard-wire in to the modem. to change the password. Since there is no phone down there...I would have to run back and forth to get troubleshooting step instructions. This is not a viable option. 1) We need a phone down there. 2) We should migrate the line from the mosquito hut to the workshop so the workshop has connectivity throughout and install a phone on the line.
Over to Katie.

==Information and Action on Sep 13, 2013==
*Internet lines changed to OSEone and OSEtwo - No reason for change other than called Centurylink to troubleshoot connectiviey problems and the representative made the changes without prompting.
**Password for both lines is maysville2013
*Still have the HabLab line, which the representative said he changed to OSEone

==Information and Action on Aug 22, 2013==
*CenturyLink tech installed new wireless modem

==Information and Action on Aug 21, 2013==
*Spoke with CenturyLink support:
**Learned that one of OSE internet lines has been ''on vacation'' since Feb 2013. This was not communicated during previous calls to CenturyLink on July 12, 2013. To compensate, CenturyLink is providing internet service for 1 year at a discount rate. The rate expires and increases on August 22, 2014; order number associated: 1182581932
*During technical assistance call:
**Troubleshoot DSL/phone line filter. Filter is not the problem.
**CenturyLink verified the problem is not a programing issue.
**Intermittent sync - speed issue on customer end, so tech will verify surfing speed with customer on location - no later than 340PM CST, ticket number 6152743

=Internet Line 1 - Cordwood=
*Internet line fixed from 1.5 to 4MB on 4/12/14.
*We got a wireless bridge -

'''The Problem'''

Factor e Farm needs a network solution that allows OSE to connect the various buildings that are currently on site as well as buildings that will be added in the future.

'''Century Link Router'''

The only real purpose of this router is to serve as a modem to the DSL connection from the internet service provider (ISP). This router is operating as the DHCP server for the HabLab network, meaning that it is providing IP addresses for any wireless repeaters or access points that are added to the network (including the TP-Link WiFi router I set up on 3/13/14). This router is not broadcasting a WiFi network.

'''Linksys WRT54GL'''

This piece of hardware is running Tomato as its operating system, an open source router administration program. It is located in the shelves and connected by eth0 to the CenturyLink pk5001a modem in the mud hut. It is set up to operate as an access point for the HabLab network. The SSID is 'wireless.'

'''Testing'''

I managed to successfully connect to the Internet through the TP-Link router using this system. Testing in the Microhouse was a minor success as the internet connection worked, but was exceedingly slow. I decided this was most likely due to the TP-Link not having the range to comminicate back to the Linksys switch. I advised Marcin to connect a directional antenna to the TP-Link to solve this problem. I also suspect the signal is being hampered by brush and tree branches; placing it in a high, clear position should improve this.

'''Results'''

<html><img src="https://docs.google.com/drawings/d/1nG7w75a__K0oBkolESkWKzUQfVVA8CZXdx1_IVBAnt8/pub?w=426&h=320"></html>

[https://docs.google.com/drawings/d/1nG7w75a__K0oBkolESkWKzUQfVVA8CZXdx1_IVBAnt8/edit edit]

This system is operational and provides OSE with a good basis to design more advance networking solutions. The Linksys WR54GL is extremely versatile with Tomato installed, but is limited to the 802.11b/g protocols. This means the point-to-point connections will be limited to 54 Mbps; sufficient for now (the dsl connection only gets speeds of 4.0 Mbps), but it will turn into a bottle-neck as the network continues to scale up.

'''The Next Steps'''

Based on these results, it seems it would be relatively easy to connect many sites around Factor e Farm using a similar combination of point-to-point and localized WiFi networks. It should also be possible to build a mesh network using Tomato-enabled Linksys routers, [http://www.dslreports.com/forum/r22572390-Tomato-Building-a-Wireless-Mesh-Network-Routers-wired something like what is described here]

=HabLab Line=
*4MB working internet, 3/11/14

=Communications=
Ben to Marcin -

I have attached all of the configuration materials for the routers at Factor e Farm, and I've updated the wiki page for OSE Internet with a description of what I did on Thursday. I think this should be enough information for you to get access to everything and make any changes that are needed. I also wanted to let you know I took down some of the pictures. I'm not entirely sure if sharing MAC addresses can be a security risk or not, so I figured it would be safer to remove them.

One thing that I didn't have time for was to password protect the two WiFi networks, and like I said this can be a significant privacy issue. I recommend you set up WPA2 Personal security on both the HabLab and OSEone networks.

HabLab

*If you are connected to the HabLab network you should be able to access everything through wifi, otherwise you can just connect to a device using an ethernet cable. The security for this network needs to be set through the Linksys Router (the admin details are in the txt attachement).
*Connect to the router through it's IP address.
*Click 'Basic' on the left sidebar
*Scroll down to the wireless section.
*Choose the drop down menu labeled security.
*Select WAP2 Personal/Enterprise
*Enter the desired password.
*The network might work fine after this point, but you might need to reconfigure the TP-Link to connect again. This can be done by just running through the initial set up on the device and telling it to work as a repeater for the HabLab network.

OSEOne

You can set the password for this network through the Century Link router in the HabLab. The login details for this are on the bottom of the router.

I wish I had more time to spend on the network while I was there, but regardless, doing this has given me a lot of ideas for things I could be set up to improve the network around the farm. With all of the construction you guys are looking to do this year, it would probably be beneficial to get internet services to each area. What I set up last Thursday could form the groundwork for a mesh network at Factor e Farm to connect everything.

I think I am going to spend some time in the coming weeks looking into what it would take to scale up something like what I did for the MicroHouse. It looks possible to create a network that would connect the HabLab, the two workshops, campsite, and any Microhouses or other structures together.

=Equipment Links=
*zBoost cell phone booster - [http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003VOW5WI/ref=pe_385040_30332200_pe_309540_26725410_item]
*TP Link Access Point - [http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002YETVXC/ref=pe_385040_30332200_pe_309540_26725410_item] - 3*5dBi Detachable Omni Directional (RP-SMA) - [http://www.tp-link.com/resources/document/TL-WA901ND_V3_Datasheet.pdf]
*Directional Antenna - [http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CJ1IARI/ref=pe_385040_30332190_TE_3p_M3T1_ST1_dp_1] - RP-SMA Connection to Router/Access Point)

=Links=
*Support/tech phone for Centurytel - [[Internet, Phone, Domains, Server]]
*Network Setup - [https://docs.google.com/a/opensourceecology.org/document/d/1HTkBVB8_WUvuUnHUH0zK313SqV2wcr6_fe17Z7qzT40/edit]
*[[OSE_Network_Plan_2014]]

OSE Internet

2014-09-05T20:22:15Z

Greg Buckland:

=Domains and Server=

*Pingdom monitors wiki URL, sending notifications to webadmin@opensourceecology.org and ops@opensourceecology.org. Uptime Robot monitors wiki and forum URLs, sending notifications to webadmin@opensourceecology.org. Hetzner is OSE’s server, Client ID: C0704628411, Support number: +49 (0) 9831 61006-1. Report to issues to Executive Staff.

*Hetzner is OSE’s server, see hard-copy information in HabLab office.

/are any of these working? i tried them all this past week at diff hours in the day without any response :(

=Internet and Phone=
*Lines - (816) 449-1226,for microhouse, (816) 449-1224 for HabLab, and (816) 449-2045 for huts/workshop
*'''For all issues call CenturyLink help''' - 800.809.1410, Press 2 for existing customers, Press 5 for repair and tech support
**official speed test - http://lasvegas.speedtest.centurylink.net/
**Independent HTML5-based speed test - http://speedof.me/
*Customer care, such as extra lines - 800.788.3500
*Tony F - internet line technician - 816.244.7803
The account number is our telephone number: 8164491224, and second one, 816.2045

=Internet and Phone Diagram=
''Accurate as of 2014-09-04''. Created by [[User:Greg_Buckland Greg Buckland]]

Click [https://docs.google.com/drawings/d/1U0eyuOJiLfBfOL4EFjQsNvpmy1jVac4iWjT19ycoa50/edit?usp=sharing here for google drawing of diagram]

<html>
<img src="https://docs.google.com/drawings/d/1U0eyuOJiLfBfOL4EFjQsNvpmy1jVac4iWjT19ycoa50/pub?w=720&h=540">
</html>

=Log=

==Thu Aug 28, 2014==
HabLab router had been down for about 1 week. It had green lights for "power" and "dsl", but a steady red light for "Internet". Not broadcasting an SSID. Called CenturyLink at 800.809.1410. Tech help walked me through the reset process:
*unplug router for 30 sec and plug back in (soft reset).
*If that doesn't help (it didn't), then with power plugged in, press the red reset button (with a pen or paperclip) and hold it for 45 sec (factory reset). It then reverts to factory settings (e.g SSID: CenturyLink7668 and default password). All the factory settings info is on the boilerplate on the bottom of the router.
*Then you can log in to the router (ideally via hard wired ethernet connection) and change SSID to "HabLab" and security to "none".

==Thu Feb 13, 2014==
Call to Century Link on January 8, 2014 at 877.744.4416. Spoke with Leslie. Discussed various options and decided to go on "inactive" status at $51/month plus tax. Allowed to remain on that status for 9 months. -- To reactivate it would take about 3 days. Call 866-614-5166 to reactivate, cancel, or change service. Service changed to a $116 plan per month with a $10 discount for 10 months, so about $106 for the next 12 months. The internet only line needs to be renegotiated in 1 year of time to retain $35/month fee. Need to consider satellite line for more internet.

== Information==

As of February, 2014:

*Voice - 8164491224

==Information and Action on Sep 23, 2013==
*Phone and Internet down, CenturyLink sending technician by 11AM CST Sep 24 (Tuesday)
**Road construction on SW Willow is possibly the cause

==Information and Action on Sep 16, 2013==
*Called support: 1-800-786-6272 and spoke to Reggie; determined the OSEtwo DSL line is 8164492307; this line is not appearing remotely so they require someone to hard-wire in to the modem. to change the password. Since there is no phone down there...I would have to run back and forth to get troubleshooting step instructions. This is not a viable option. 1) We need a phone down there. 2) We should migrate the line from the mosquito hut to the workshop so the workshop has connectivity throughout and install a phone on the line.
Over to Katie.

==Information and Action on Sep 13, 2013==
*Internet lines changed to OSEone and OSEtwo - No reason for change other than called Centurylink to troubleshoot connectiviey problems and the representative made the changes without prompting.
**Password for both lines is maysville2013
*Still have the HabLab line, which the representative said he changed to OSEone

==Information and Action on Aug 22, 2013==
*CenturyLink tech installed new wireless modem

==Information and Action on Aug 21, 2013==
*Spoke with CenturyLink support:
**Learned that one of OSE internet lines has been ''on vacation'' since Feb 2013. This was not communicated during previous calls to CenturyLink on July 12, 2013. To compensate, CenturyLink is providing internet service for 1 year at a discount rate. The rate expires and increases on August 22, 2014; order number associated: 1182581932
*During technical assistance call:
**Troubleshoot DSL/phone line filter. Filter is not the problem.
**CenturyLink verified the problem is not a programing issue.
**Intermittent sync - speed issue on customer end, so tech will verify surfing speed with customer on location - no later than 340PM CST, ticket number 6152743

=Internet Line 1 - Cordwood=
*Internet line fixed from 1.5 to 4MB on 4/12/14.
*We got a wireless bridge -

'''The Problem'''

Factor e Farm needs a network solution that allows OSE to connect the various buildings that are currently on site as well as buildings that will be added in the future.

'''Century Link Router'''

The only real purpose of this router is to serve as a modem to the DSL connection from the internet service provider (ISP). This router is operating as the DHCP server for the HabLab network, meaning that it is providing IP addresses for any wireless repeaters or access points that are added to the network (including the TP-Link WiFi router I set up on 3/13/14). This router is not broadcasting a WiFi network.

'''Linksys WRT54GL'''

This piece of hardware is running Tomato as its operating system, an open source router administration program. It is located in the shelves and connected by eth0 to the CenturyLink pk5001a modem in the mud hut. It is set up to operate as an access point for the HabLab network. The SSID is 'wireless.'

'''Testing'''

I managed to successfully connect to the Internet through the TP-Link router using this system. Testing in the Microhouse was a minor success as the internet connection worked, but was exceedingly slow. I decided this was most likely due to the TP-Link not having the range to comminicate back to the Linksys switch. I advised Marcin to connect a directional antenna to the TP-Link to solve this problem. I also suspect the signal is being hampered by brush and tree branches; placing it in a high, clear position should improve this.

'''Results'''

<html><img src="https://docs.google.com/drawings/d/1nG7w75a__K0oBkolESkWKzUQfVVA8CZXdx1_IVBAnt8/pub?w=426&h=320"></html>

[https://docs.google.com/drawings/d/1nG7w75a__K0oBkolESkWKzUQfVVA8CZXdx1_IVBAnt8/edit edit]

This system is operational and provides OSE with a good basis to design more advance networking solutions. The Linksys WR54GL is extremely versatile with Tomato installed, but is limited to the 802.11b/g protocols. This means the point-to-point connections will be limited to 54 Mbps; sufficient for now (the dsl connection only gets speeds of 4.0 Mbps), but it will turn into a bottle-neck as the network continues to scale up.

'''The Next Steps'''

Based on these results, it seems it would be relatively easy to connect many sites around Factor e Farm using a similar combination of point-to-point and localized WiFi networks. It should also be possible to build a mesh network using Tomato-enabled Linksys routers, [http://www.dslreports.com/forum/r22572390-Tomato-Building-a-Wireless-Mesh-Network-Routers-wired something like what is described here]

=HabLab Line=
*4MB working internet, 3/11/14

=Communications=
Ben to Marcin -

I have attached all of the configuration materials for the routers at Factor e Farm, and I've updated the wiki page for OSE Internet with a description of what I did on Thursday. I think this should be enough information for you to get access to everything and make any changes that are needed. I also wanted to let you know I took down some of the pictures. I'm not entirely sure if sharing MAC addresses can be a security risk or not, so I figured it would be safer to remove them.

One thing that I didn't have time for was to password protect the two WiFi networks, and like I said this can be a significant privacy issue. I recommend you set up WPA2 Personal security on both the HabLab and OSEone networks.

HabLab

*If you are connected to the HabLab network you should be able to access everything through wifi, otherwise you can just connect to a device using an ethernet cable. The security for this network needs to be set through the Linksys Router (the admin details are in the txt attachement).
*Connect to the router through it's IP address.
*Click 'Basic' on the left sidebar
*Scroll down to the wireless section.
*Choose the drop down menu labeled security.
*Select WAP2 Personal/Enterprise
*Enter the desired password.
*The network might work fine after this point, but you might need to reconfigure the TP-Link to connect again. This can be done by just running through the initial set up on the device and telling it to work as a repeater for the HabLab network.

OSEOne

You can set the password for this network through the Century Link router in the HabLab. The login details for this are on the bottom of the router.

I wish I had more time to spend on the network while I was there, but regardless, doing this has given me a lot of ideas for things I could be set up to improve the network around the farm. With all of the construction you guys are looking to do this year, it would probably be beneficial to get internet services to each area. What I set up last Thursday could form the groundwork for a mesh network at Factor e Farm to connect everything.

I think I am going to spend some time in the coming weeks looking into what it would take to scale up something like what I did for the MicroHouse. It looks possible to create a network that would connect the HabLab, the two workshops, campsite, and any Microhouses or other structures together.

=Equipment Links=
*zBoost cell phone booster - [http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003VOW5WI/ref=pe_385040_30332200_pe_309540_26725410_item]
*TP Link Access Point - [http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002YETVXC/ref=pe_385040_30332200_pe_309540_26725410_item] - 3*5dBi Detachable Omni Directional (RP-SMA) - [http://www.tp-link.com/resources/document/TL-WA901ND_V3_Datasheet.pdf]
*Directional Antenna - [http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CJ1IARI/ref=pe_385040_30332190_TE_3p_M3T1_ST1_dp_1] - RP-SMA Connection to Router/Access Point)

=Links=
*Support/tech phone for Centurytel - [[Internet, Phone, Domains, Server]]
*Network Setup - [https://docs.google.com/a/opensourceecology.org/document/d/1HTkBVB8_WUvuUnHUH0zK313SqV2wcr6_fe17Z7qzT40/edit]
*[[OSE_Network_Plan_2014]]

Composting Toilet

2014-09-05T19:14:36Z

Greg Buckland: /* Trovebox Album */

{{Category=Soil and compost}}
{{Category=Home fittings}}

=Current Design, 2014=

Our design is an above-ground, low-maintenance moldering composting toilet that is intended for large groups (workshop participants, interns) over a short term. The toilet facilitates the decomposition of humanure in an isolated straw-bale chamber.

It is based on Nancy Rosalie's [http://www.mofga.org/Publications/MaineOrganicFarmerGardener/Fall2009/Thrones/tabid/1255/Default.aspx Common Throne] for the [http://www.mofga.org/theFair Common Ground Fair] in Unity, Maine.

{| class="wikitable"
|-
|[[File:outhouse_complete_small.jpg|250px]]
|[[File:Composting_Toilet_Sketchup.png|400px]]
|}
[[File:Composting_Toilet.skp]]

==Trovebox Album==

For more photos of the building process, this is the complete [https://opensourceecology.trovebox.com/photos/page-1/album-20/list '''Photo Album''']

[[Image:compostalbum.jpg|500px]]

==Introduction==

===What is “humanure”?===
Humanure (human manure) is human fecal material and urine. It can be a major source of environmental pollution around the world. It also can be a source of disease organisms. When discarded into the environment as a waste material, it creates pollution and threatens public health. When recycled by composting, the pollution and health threats can be eliminated. Humanure contains valuable soil nutrients that enhance plant growth. For these reasons, humanure should be recycled whenever possible.

===What is composting?===
Composting is the feeding of organic material such as humanure and food scraps to small organisms such as beneficial bacteria. Many compost organisms are too small to be seen, however, many of them can be seen. The larger ones include earthworms and many other tiny insects. Fungi also live in compost piles and they digest the tougher, woody plant materials.

*Definitions from Joseph Jenkins,[http://weblife.org/humanure/default.html Humanure Handbook])
===How does it work?===
Humanure, when collected and contained in an enclosed environment, and combined with carbon based cover material, goes through a process of aerobic decomposition to create nutrient rich humus. This process destroys pathogens and allows bacteria to thoroughly decompose the refuse material. With the appropriate conditions, with correct air flow, temperature, carbon:nitrogen ratio, the human refuse will aerobically decompose into nutrient rich humus.

===Why?===
In contemporary society, we have broken the ecology of the human nutrient cycle. Factory farms apply chemical fertilizers to agricultural land, in order to support the vegetation. Consumers then discard refuse and flush away their ‘waste’ to sewers and landfills, sacrificing valuable nutrients and polluting drinking water.

Open Source Ecology, as an educational hub, has an obligation to demonstrate the possibility of reintegrating ourselves within the environment, starting with the most basic of human functions; eating, digesting, and excreting waste, and transforming our byproducts into valuable resources. The composting toilet is directly in line with the basic mission of OSE, to preserve water and provide soil nourishment, which are essential for the revitalization of the landscape and resilience for the future.

==Use and Maintenance of Current System==
*Limit liquids and moisture (no urine) in chamber, in order to maintain appropriate moisture content in chamber, and reduce odors

*After each visit to the toilet, add just enough sawdust to completely cover your contribution

*Close toilet lid and open stall doors after each use to limit flies and odor

*Weekly cleaning:
**Clean 5 gallon bucket "poop chutes" - minimize use of water, and only a tiny amount of biodegradable soap (e.g. Dr. Bronners) if necessary
**Sweep out chambers, deck, and stairs
**Restock toilet paper (ideally bleach free)
**Replenish sawdust (from nearby sawmill or our own workshop - NOTE: Clean sawdust only; e.g. NO Hydraulic fluid, NO treated lumber dust, NO pink foam dust)

*When the chamber is filled to capacity, (determined by users, after the summer season of workshops/interns) the toilet should be closed and left undisturbed for 8 to 12 months. This is when the composting process will occur.

*After approximately 8 months to 1 year, the back wall of straw-bales is removed and the finished compost is shoveled from the chamber. Composted humus should be ready for laying around trees and ornamental plants; NOT recommended for vegetable gardening. New straw-bales are added as needed, and the process begins again.

'''*Recommended Fallow Period: October 1st - June 1st''' - this will allow 8 months for composting

==Work Still Needed==
''In rough priority order''
*Seal, stain, or paint the toilet
**Remove doors and metal hardware
**Paint metal hardware with spraypaint (black?)
**Paint or seal doors, stair treads, and railings. Consider sealing/painting exposed 2x4 wall framing, roof rafters. Especially focus on sealing/painting the end grains of all exposed untreated wood.
**Ask Sutherland's or Menard's what they recommend for deck or shed sealing/painting
**'''DO NOT seal or paint Treated Lumber before 2015 June 1'''. Treated lumber is greenish in hue and includes: stair stringers, ribbon/rim joists, 3/4" deck plywood, 1/2" sheathing plywood. It needs to breath and dry out before it can be safely sealed or painted.

*Anchor the toilet for wind protection using [http://www.menards.com/main/building-materials/storage-buildings/storage-building-accessories/3-x-30-earth-anchor/p-1349524-c-9565.htm earth anchors] and cables / [http://www.menards.com/main/tools-hardware/household-hardware/utility-hardware/turnbuckles/50-turnbuckle/p-2014919-c-9710.htm turnbuckles].

*Make good signage, including:
**"CLOSED FOR COMPOSTING. October 1st - June 1st
**Instructions for use
**Instructions for cleaning
**Philosophy & theory of composting toilets

*Good documentation of build, here on the Wiki or on Dozuki

*Add 1/4" plywood sides to seatboxes to hide the bucket/"poop chutes"

----
=== Proposed Timeline ===

October 1st, 2014: Close toilet for composting.

June 1st, 2015: Re-open and collect decomposed material with arrival of new interns. Add new straw-bales for chamber as needed.

'''Yes compost'''

feces, urine, menstrual blood

sawdust

toilet paper

toilet paper rolls (cardboard)

paper or cotton based feminine hygiene products

'''No compost:'''

plastics

plastic feminine hygiene products

==The Plans==

===SketchUp===

[[File:Composting_Toilet.skp]]

===Dozuki===
[http://opensourceecology.dozuki.com/Guide/How+to+build+and+maintain+a+waterless+above-ground+chamber+Composting+Toilet/175 Dozuki instructionals]

=Previously Used System, 2012=

This is the exact technique for a simple composting toilet that we use at Factor e Farm (from a [http://weblife.org/humanure/default.html Humanure Handbook], (see [http://weblife.org/humanure/chapter8_2.html exact page and further pictures]):

“How it works is a model of simplicity. One begins by depositing one’s organic refuse (feces and urine) into a plastic bucket, clay urn, or other non-corrodible waterproof receptacle with about a five gallon (20 liter) capacity. Food scraps may be collected in a separate receptacle, but can also be deposited into the toilet receptacle. A five gallon capacity is recommended because a larger size would be too heavy to carry when full. If five gallons is still too heavy for someone to carry, it can be emptied when half-full.

The contents of the toilet are kept covered with a clean, plant-based cover material such as rotted sawdust, peat moss, leaf mould, rice hulls, or grass clippings, in order to prevent odors, absorb urine, and eliminate any fly nuisance. Urine is deposited into the same receptacle, and as the liquid surface rises, more cover material is added so that a clean layer of organic material covers the toilet contents at all times.

A lid is kept on the toilet receptacle when not in use. The lid need not be air-tight, and a standard, hinged toilet seat is quite suitable. The lid does not necessarily prevent odor from escaping, and it does not necessarily prevent flies from gaining access to the toilet contents. Instead, the cover material does. The cover material acts as an organic lid or a “biofilter”; the physical lid (toilet seat) is used primarily for convenience and aesthetics.”
----

The idea of a composting toilet is to keep compost around 43-50°C (110-122°F) for at least a week, to create an environment in which beneficial microorganisms thrive and pathogenic ones die. ''The Humanure Handbook'' says, "A sound approach to pathogen destruction when composting humanure is to [[Thermophilic compost|thermophilically compost]] the toilet material, then allow the compost to sit, undisturbed, for a lengthy period of time after the thermophilic heating stage has ended."

The way to accomplish this is:
* Use sawdust to bury manure. Sawdust provides carbon and this balances the nitrogen in the faeces. A good carbon-nitrogen balance is needed for composting. The sawdust also keeps bad smells in and keeps flies away. [[Biochar]] could also profitably be used for this purpose.
* Do not seperate urine and feces, as the urine provides moisture the microorganisms need.
* As well as adding the buckets from the toilet to the compost heap, throw on chunky materials like straw. This traps air pockets in the compost heap.
* Optionally, skewer the compost heap with sticks or pipes to provide more aeration.
* Let it sit for a year before using on plants

==Resources==
*''The Humanure Handbook, 3rd edition'' [http://humanurehandbook.com/contents.html here]

* [http://www.sunnyjohn.com/toiletpapers2.htm Moldering Toilets]
* Terra Preta Toilet
** [http://www.phlush.org/ecological-sanitation/terra-preta/ 1]
** [http://www.sswm.info/category/implementation-tools/water-use/hardware/toilet-systems/terra-preta-toilet 2]
* [http://teachdemocracy.org/cms/index.php/projects/naturaltoilets/toilet-article/ Natural Toilets]

*[http://en.howtopedia.org/wiki/How_to_Build_a_Compost_Toilet How-to-guide]

*[http://www.gytte.org/DCT.htm Dry Composting Toilet]

*[http://www.cropthornehouse.co.uk/design/ Cropthorne Autonomous House]

*[http://www.pacificwater.org/userfiles/file/mr0249.pdf Pacific Water Toilet designs]

*[http://cottagelife.com/files/2011/05/Privy-Plan.pdf composting toilet outhouse plans]

OSE Internet

2014-09-05T16:35:25Z

Greg Buckland: /* Internet and Phone */

=Domains and Server=

*Pingdom monitors wiki URL, sending notifications to webadmin@opensourceecology.org and ops@opensourceecology.org. Uptime Robot monitors wiki and forum URLs, sending notifications to webadmin@opensourceecology.org. Hetzner is OSE’s server, Client ID: C0704628411, Support number: +49 (0) 9831 61006-1. Report to issues to Executive Staff.

*Hetzner is OSE’s server, see hard-copy information in HabLab office.

/are any of these working? i tried them all this past week at diff hours in the day without any response :(

=Internet and Phone=
*Lines - (816) 449-1226,for microhouse, (816) 449-1224 for HabLab, and (816) 449-2045 for huts/workshop
*'''For all issues call CenturyLink help''' - 800.809.1410, Press 2 for existing customers, Press 5 for repair and tech support
**official speed test - http://lasvegas.speedtest.centurylink.net/
**Independent HTML5-based speed test - http://speedof.me/
*Customer care, such as extra lines - 800.788.3500
*Tony F - internet line technician - 816.244.7803
The account number is our telephone number: 8164491224, and second one, 816.2045

=Log=

==Thu Aug 28, 2014==
HabLab router had been down for about 1 week. It had green lights for "power" and "dsl", but a steady red light for "Internet". Not broadcasting an SSID. Called CenturyLink at 800.809.1410. Tech help walked me through the reset process:
*unplug router for 30 sec and plug back in (soft reset).
*If that doesn't help (it didn't), then with power plugged in, press the red reset button (with a pen or paperclip) and hold it for 45 sec (factory reset). It then reverts to factory settings (e.g SSID: CenturyLink7668 and default password). All the factory settings info is on the boilerplate on the bottom of the router.
*Then you can log in to the router (ideally via hard wired ethernet connection) and change SSID to "HabLab" and security to "none".

==Thu Feb 13, 2014==
Call to Century Link on January 8, 2014 at 877.744.4416. Spoke with Leslie. Discussed various options and decided to go on "inactive" status at $51/month plus tax. Allowed to remain on that status for 9 months. -- To reactivate it would take about 3 days. Call 866-614-5166 to reactivate, cancel, or change service. Service changed to a $116 plan per month with a $10 discount for 10 months, so about $106 for the next 12 months. The internet only line needs to be renegotiated in 1 year of time to retain $35/month fee. Need to consider satellite line for more internet.

== Information==

As of February, 2014:

*Voice - 8164491224

==Information and Action on Sep 23, 2013==
*Phone and Internet down, CenturyLink sending technician by 11AM CST Sep 24 (Tuesday)
**Road construction on SW Willow is possibly the cause

==Information and Action on Sep 16, 2013==
*Called support: 1-800-786-6272 and spoke to Reggie; determined the OSEtwo DSL line is 8164492307; this line is not appearing remotely so they require someone to hard-wire in to the modem. to change the password. Since there is no phone down there...I would have to run back and forth to get troubleshooting step instructions. This is not a viable option. 1) We need a phone down there. 2) We should migrate the line from the mosquito hut to the workshop so the workshop has connectivity throughout and install a phone on the line.
Over to Katie.

==Information and Action on Sep 13, 2013==
*Internet lines changed to OSEone and OSEtwo - No reason for change other than called Centurylink to troubleshoot connectiviey problems and the representative made the changes without prompting.
**Password for both lines is maysville2013
*Still have the HabLab line, which the representative said he changed to OSEone

==Information and Action on Aug 22, 2013==
*CenturyLink tech installed new wireless modem

==Information and Action on Aug 21, 2013==
*Spoke with CenturyLink support:
**Learned that one of OSE internet lines has been ''on vacation'' since Feb 2013. This was not communicated during previous calls to CenturyLink on July 12, 2013. To compensate, CenturyLink is providing internet service for 1 year at a discount rate. The rate expires and increases on August 22, 2014; order number associated: 1182581932
*During technical assistance call:
**Troubleshoot DSL/phone line filter. Filter is not the problem.
**CenturyLink verified the problem is not a programing issue.
**Intermittent sync - speed issue on customer end, so tech will verify surfing speed with customer on location - no later than 340PM CST, ticket number 6152743

=Internet Line 1 - Cordwood=
*Internet line fixed from 1.5 to 4MB on 4/12/14.
*We got a wireless bridge -

'''The Problem'''

Factor e Farm needs a network solution that allows OSE to connect the various buildings that are currently on site as well as buildings that will be added in the future.

'''Century Link Router'''

The only real purpose of this router is to serve as a modem to the DSL connection from the internet service provider (ISP). This router is operating as the DHCP server for the HabLab network, meaning that it is providing IP addresses for any wireless repeaters or access points that are added to the network (including the TP-Link WiFi router I set up on 3/13/14). This router is not broadcasting a WiFi network.

'''Linksys WRT54GL'''

This piece of hardware is running Tomato as its operating system, an open source router administration program. It is located in the shelves and connected by eth0 to the CenturyLink pk5001a modem in the mud hut. It is set up to operate as an access point for the HabLab network. The SSID is 'wireless.'

'''Testing'''

I managed to successfully connect to the Internet through the TP-Link router using this system. Testing in the Microhouse was a minor success as the internet connection worked, but was exceedingly slow. I decided this was most likely due to the TP-Link not having the range to comminicate back to the Linksys switch. I advised Marcin to connect a directional antenna to the TP-Link to solve this problem. I also suspect the signal is being hampered by brush and tree branches; placing it in a high, clear position should improve this.

'''Results'''

<html><img src="https://docs.google.com/drawings/d/1nG7w75a__K0oBkolESkWKzUQfVVA8CZXdx1_IVBAnt8/pub?w=426&h=320"></html>

[https://docs.google.com/drawings/d/1nG7w75a__K0oBkolESkWKzUQfVVA8CZXdx1_IVBAnt8/edit edit]

This system is operational and provides OSE with a good basis to design more advance networking solutions. The Linksys WR54GL is extremely versatile with Tomato installed, but is limited to the 802.11b/g protocols. This means the point-to-point connections will be limited to 54 Mbps; sufficient for now (the dsl connection only gets speeds of 4.0 Mbps), but it will turn into a bottle-neck as the network continues to scale up.

'''The Next Steps'''

Based on these results, it seems it would be relatively easy to connect many sites around Factor e Farm using a similar combination of point-to-point and localized WiFi networks. It should also be possible to build a mesh network using Tomato-enabled Linksys routers, [http://www.dslreports.com/forum/r22572390-Tomato-Building-a-Wireless-Mesh-Network-Routers-wired something like what is described here]

=HabLab Line=
*4MB working internet, 3/11/14

=Communications=
Ben to Marcin -

I have attached all of the configuration materials for the routers at Factor e Farm, and I've updated the wiki page for OSE Internet with a description of what I did on Thursday. I think this should be enough information for you to get access to everything and make any changes that are needed. I also wanted to let you know I took down some of the pictures. I'm not entirely sure if sharing MAC addresses can be a security risk or not, so I figured it would be safer to remove them.

One thing that I didn't have time for was to password protect the two WiFi networks, and like I said this can be a significant privacy issue. I recommend you set up WPA2 Personal security on both the HabLab and OSEone networks.

HabLab

*If you are connected to the HabLab network you should be able to access everything through wifi, otherwise you can just connect to a device using an ethernet cable. The security for this network needs to be set through the Linksys Router (the admin details are in the txt attachement).
*Connect to the router through it's IP address.
*Click 'Basic' on the left sidebar
*Scroll down to the wireless section.
*Choose the drop down menu labeled security.
*Select WAP2 Personal/Enterprise
*Enter the desired password.
*The network might work fine after this point, but you might need to reconfigure the TP-Link to connect again. This can be done by just running through the initial set up on the device and telling it to work as a repeater for the HabLab network.

OSEOne

You can set the password for this network through the Century Link router in the HabLab. The login details for this are on the bottom of the router.

I wish I had more time to spend on the network while I was there, but regardless, doing this has given me a lot of ideas for things I could be set up to improve the network around the farm. With all of the construction you guys are looking to do this year, it would probably be beneficial to get internet services to each area. What I set up last Thursday could form the groundwork for a mesh network at Factor e Farm to connect everything.

I think I am going to spend some time in the coming weeks looking into what it would take to scale up something like what I did for the MicroHouse. It looks possible to create a network that would connect the HabLab, the two workshops, campsite, and any Microhouses or other structures together.

=Equipment Links=
*zBoost cell phone booster - [http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003VOW5WI/ref=pe_385040_30332200_pe_309540_26725410_item]
*TP Link Access Point - [http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002YETVXC/ref=pe_385040_30332200_pe_309540_26725410_item] - 3*5dBi Detachable Omni Directional (RP-SMA) - [http://www.tp-link.com/resources/document/TL-WA901ND_V3_Datasheet.pdf]
*Directional Antenna - [http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CJ1IARI/ref=pe_385040_30332190_TE_3p_M3T1_ST1_dp_1] - RP-SMA Connection to Router/Access Point)

=Links=
*Support/tech phone for Centurytel - [[Internet, Phone, Domains, Server]]
*Network Setup - [https://docs.google.com/a/opensourceecology.org/document/d/1HTkBVB8_WUvuUnHUH0zK313SqV2wcr6_fe17Z7qzT40/edit]
*[[OSE_Network_Plan_2014]]

September 2014 Email with Stefan

2014-09-05T16:09:55Z

Greg Buckland:

=Email correspondence between Greg Buckland (FeF) and Stefan Hechenberger (nortd Labs)=
''re: Open Source Ecology Lasersaur questions''

<html>
<div class="gmail_quote">On Fri, Sep 5, 2014 at 3:37 AM, Stefan Hechenberger <span dir="ltr"><></span> wrote:<br><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><span>

<br><br>On Thu, Sep 4, 2014 at 5:44 PM, Greg Buckland <> wrote:<br>
<blockquote type="cite"><div dir="ltr">Thanks for the quick reply, Stefan! A couple quick follow up questions:<div><br></div><div>I checked on those, and shipping will take some time. Any concerns with <a href="http://www.lasersafetyindustries.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=100-50-101&CartID=1" target="_blank">these ones</a>? They could get them to me tomorrow.</div></div></blockquote><div><br></div></span><div>Look good.</div><span><br><blockquote type="cite"><div dir="ltr"><div>Thanks for the tips about connecting the laser - i'll try a screw terminal connector and see what I can do (I also found <a href="https://groups.google.com/forum/#!searchin/lasersaur/40W$20laser$20connection/lasersaur/A6NtWJ1NB94/HgH-1gPk4xsJ" target="_blank">this helpful thread</a> after talking with you)</div>

<div class="gmail_extra"><br></div><div class="gmail_extra">Another question re: ventilation. We have a 6"x6" square vent take-off similar to this one:</div><div class="gmail_extra"><br></div><div class="gmail_extra">
</html>
[[File:vent_takeoff.jpg|200px]]

<html>
<br></div><div class="gmail_extra"><div><div><div><br></div><div>And then we have duct work that takes it to a blower and then out of the workshop. We are trying to figure out the best location for this take-off in the cutting chamber. The bottom in the center would seem to give the best coverage, but it's the least convenient. Does this takeoff seem about right to you? Any suggestions for location in the box?</div></div></div></div></div></blockquote><div><br></div></span><div>We haven't really found a location that works exceptionally better than others. One feature that help is if there are inlets on the other side to create a nice draft. But this also requires a sort of overlapping gap to prevent laser radiation from exiting.</div><div><br></div><div>Left side or center rear base is probably the best location. If you find it inconvenient in the base I would go with left panel.</div><div><div><br><blockquote type="cite"><div dir="ltr"><div class="gmail_extra"><div><div><div>Thanks again for the help - we'll send you some pics when we get it cutting!</div><div><br></div><div>Cheers,</div><div>Greg</div><div><br></div><div><br></div><div>Greg Buckland</div><div><br></div>

</div></div>
<br><br><div class="gmail_quote">On Thu, Sep 4, 2014 at 3:35 AM, Stefan Hechenberger <span dir="ltr"><></span> wrote:<br>

<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left-width:1px;border-left-color:rgb(204,204,204);border-left-style:solid;padding-left:1ex"><div><br><blockquote type="cite"><div dir="ltr">
<div>
Greg Buckland here at Open Source Ecology / Factor-e Farm. We are working on getting our beautiful Lasersaur up and running, and as we hook it up, we have a few questions:</div>

<div><br></div><div><div><b>Were CO2 laser safety goggles included in the shipment?</b></div><div>If so, we can't seem to find them. Do you have goggles you recommend? I was looking at these: </div></div><div><a href="http://www.universalmedicalinc.com/Adjustable-Spectacle-CO2-Excimer-Laser-Glasses-p/LS-CD2-300.htm?gclid=COTG9de5xsACFSpo7AodSAQAzQ" target="_blank">http://www.<wbr>universalmedicalinc.com/<wbr>Adjustable-Spectacle-CO2-<wbr>Excimer-Laser-Glasses-p/LS-<wbr>CD2-300.htm?gclid=<wbr>COTG9de5xsACFSpo7AodSAQAzQ</a></div>

</div></blockquote><div><br></div></div><div>Good find.</div><br><blockquote type="cite"><div dir="ltr"><div>or these:</div><div><a href="http://www.zoro.com/i/G3228741/?utm_source=google_shopping&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Google_Shopping_Feed&gclid=CIGIjejExsACFUoS7Aod-G0AXg" target="_blank">http://www.zoro.com/i/<wbr>G3228741/?utm_source=google_<wbr>shopping&utm_medium=cpc&utm_<wbr>campaign=Google_Shopping_Feed&<wbr>gclid=CIGIjejExsACFUoS7Aod-<wbr>G0AXg</a></div>

</div></blockquote><div><br></div><div>These don't specify blocking 10600nm (CO2 laser wavelength).</div><div><br><blockquote type="cite"><div dir="ltr"><div>Any suggestions or thoughts on which goggles we should get?</div>

<div><br></div><div><b>Are the dark acrylic panels laserproof?</b></div><div>In other words, when the chamber is closed, do we need to wear safety glasses, or will the acrylic panels protect us enough?</div></div></blockquote>

<div><br></div></div><div>Practically yes, a fully assembled and calibrated Lasersaur is designed to be safe without laser glasses. It's eligible to be certified as a class 1 laser in most jurisdictions. Yet without going through with the paper work it's legally a class 4 laser system. So legally you would have to wear protection glasses and only let trained personal use it.</div>

<div><div><br></div><br><blockquote type="cite"><div dir="ltr"><div><b>How do we connect the 40W chinese laser?</b></div><div>The lasersaur shipped with a 40W chinese laser. It looks like there are two electrodes on the tube - and two wires from the power supply that are not hooked up. There is a thick red wire (which comes from the power supply) and a thick white wire, which connects to the blue wire (which goes into the power supply). Could you tell me a) how to connect the wires to the electrodes (do I just solder them with regular 63/47 solder?) and b) which wire connects to which electrode (left and right in the picture below)?</div>

</div></blockquote><div><br></div></div><div>The 40W tubes don't have screw terminals like the 100W ones do. Soldering does not work well because the heat can break the glass/seal. Either use a screw terminal connector (careful about torquing the pin) or conductive glue.</div>

<div><br></div><div>The red thick wire goes to the rear of the tube, blue/thin to the front (where the beam comes out). The red wire needs to be insulted. It's important to not overdo the layer of insulation as heat buildup may cause the tube to fail.</div>

<div><br></div><div>Careful with the high voltage laser PSU. It often stays charged even after unplugging it from the AC lines.</div><br><blockquote type="cite"><div dir="ltr"><div><div><div><div></div>

</div></div>
</div></div>
</blockquote><div><br></div><div>Best,</div><div><br></div><div>-stefan</div><div><br></div></blockquote></div><br></div></div>
</blockquote></div></div></blockquote></div>
</html>

September 2014 Email with Stefan

2014-09-05T16:08:04Z

Greg Buckland: Created page with "=Email correspondence between Greg Buckland (FeF) and Stefan Hechenberger (nortd Labs)= ''re: Open Source Ecology Lasersaur questions'' <html> <div class="gmail_quote">On Fri..."

=Email correspondence between Greg Buckland (FeF) and Stefan Hechenberger (nortd Labs)=
''re: Open Source Ecology Lasersaur questions''

<html>
<div class="gmail_quote">On Fri, Sep 5, 2014 at 3:37 AM, Stefan Hechenberger <span dir="ltr"><></span> wrote:<br><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><span>

<br><br>On Thu, Sep 4, 2014 at 5:44 PM, Greg Buckland <> wrote:<br>
<blockquote type="cite"><div dir="ltr">Thanks for the quick reply, Stefan! A couple quick follow up questions:<div><br></div><div>I checked on those, and shipping will take some time. Any concerns with <a href="http://www.lasersafetyindustries.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=100-50-101&CartID=1" target="_blank">these ones</a>? They could get them to me tomorrow.</div></div></blockquote><div><br></div></span><div>Look good.</div><span><br><blockquote type="cite"><div dir="ltr"><div>Thanks for the tips about connecting the laser - i'll try a screw terminal connector and see what I can do (I also found <a href="https://groups.google.com/forum/#!searchin/lasersaur/40W$20laser$20connection/lasersaur/A6NtWJ1NB94/HgH-1gPk4xsJ" target="_blank">this helpful thread</a> after talking with you)</div>

<div class="gmail_extra"><br></div><div class="gmail_extra">Another question re: ventilation. We have a 6"x6" square vent take-off similar to this one:</div><div class="gmail_extra"><br></div><div class="gmail_extra">

[SEE IMAGE BELOW]

<br></div><div class="gmail_extra"><div><div><div><br></div><div>And then we have duct work that takes it to a blower and then out of the workshop. We are trying to figure out the best location for this take-off in the cutting chamber. The bottom in the center would seem to give the best coverage, but it's the least convenient. Does this takeoff seem about right to you? Any suggestions for location in the box?</div></div></div></div></div></blockquote><div><br></div></span><div>We haven't really found a location that works exceptionally better than others. One feature that help is if there are inlets on the other side to create a nice draft. But this also requires a sort of overlapping gap to prevent laser radiation from exiting.</div><div><br></div><div>Left side or center rear base is probably the best location. If you find it inconvenient in the base I would go with left panel.</div><div><div><br><blockquote type="cite"><div dir="ltr"><div class="gmail_extra"><div><div><div>Thanks again for the help - we'll send you some pics when we get it cutting!</div><div><br></div><div>Cheers,</div><div>Greg</div><div><br></div><div><br></div><div>Greg Buckland</div><div><br></div>

</div></div>
<br><br><div class="gmail_quote">On Thu, Sep 4, 2014 at 3:35 AM, Stefan Hechenberger <span dir="ltr"><></span> wrote:<br>

<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left-width:1px;border-left-color:rgb(204,204,204);border-left-style:solid;padding-left:1ex"><div><br><blockquote type="cite"><div dir="ltr">
<div>
Greg Buckland here at Open Source Ecology / Factor-e Farm. We are working on getting our beautiful Lasersaur up and running, and as we hook it up, we have a few questions:</div>

<div><br></div><div><div><b>Were CO2 laser safety goggles included in the shipment?</b></div><div>If so, we can't seem to find them. Do you have goggles you recommend? I was looking at these: </div></div><div><a href="http://www.universalmedicalinc.com/Adjustable-Spectacle-CO2-Excimer-Laser-Glasses-p/LS-CD2-300.htm?gclid=COTG9de5xsACFSpo7AodSAQAzQ" target="_blank">http://www.<wbr>universalmedicalinc.com/<wbr>Adjustable-Spectacle-CO2-<wbr>Excimer-Laser-Glasses-p/LS-<wbr>CD2-300.htm?gclid=<wbr>COTG9de5xsACFSpo7AodSAQAzQ</a></div>

</div></blockquote><div><br></div></div><div>Good find.</div><br><blockquote type="cite"><div dir="ltr"><div>or these:</div><div><a href="http://www.zoro.com/i/G3228741/?utm_source=google_shopping&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Google_Shopping_Feed&gclid=CIGIjejExsACFUoS7Aod-G0AXg" target="_blank">http://www.zoro.com/i/<wbr>G3228741/?utm_source=google_<wbr>shopping&utm_medium=cpc&utm_<wbr>campaign=Google_Shopping_Feed&<wbr>gclid=CIGIjejExsACFUoS7Aod-<wbr>G0AXg</a></div>

</div></blockquote><div><br></div><div>These don't specify blocking 10600nm (CO2 laser wavelength).</div><div><br><blockquote type="cite"><div dir="ltr"><div>Any suggestions or thoughts on which goggles we should get?</div>

<div><br></div><div><b>Are the dark acrylic panels laserproof?</b></div><div>In other words, when the chamber is closed, do we need to wear safety glasses, or will the acrylic panels protect us enough?</div></div></blockquote>

<div><br></div></div><div>Practically yes, a fully assembled and calibrated Lasersaur is designed to be safe without laser glasses. It's eligible to be certified as a class 1 laser in most jurisdictions. Yet without going through with the paper work it's legally a class 4 laser system. So legally you would have to wear protection glasses and only let trained personal use it.</div>

<div><div><br></div><br><blockquote type="cite"><div dir="ltr"><div><b>How do we connect the 40W chinese laser?</b></div><div>The lasersaur shipped with a 40W chinese laser. It looks like there are two electrodes on the tube - and two wires from the power supply that are not hooked up. There is a thick red wire (which comes from the power supply) and a thick white wire, which connects to the blue wire (which goes into the power supply). Could you tell me a) how to connect the wires to the electrodes (do I just solder them with regular 63/47 solder?) and b) which wire connects to which electrode (left and right in the picture below)?</div>

</div></blockquote><div><br></div></div><div>The 40W tubes don't have screw terminals like the 100W ones do. Soldering does not work well because the heat can break the glass/seal. Either use a screw terminal connector (careful about torquing the pin) or conductive glue.</div>

<div><br></div><div>The red thick wire goes to the rear of the tube, blue/thin to the front (where the beam comes out). The red wire needs to be insulted. It's important to not overdo the layer of insulation as heat buildup may cause the tube to fail.</div>

<div><br></div><div>Careful with the high voltage laser PSU. It often stays charged even after unplugging it from the AC lines.</div><br><blockquote type="cite"><div dir="ltr"><div><div><div><div></div>

</div></div>
</div></div>
</blockquote><div><br></div><div>Best,</div><div><br></div><div>-stefan</div><div><br></div></blockquote></div><br></div></div>
</blockquote></div></div></blockquote></div>
</html>

Inline image of vent take-off from above:
[[File:vent_takeoff.jpg|300px]]

File:Vent takeoff.jpg

2014-09-05T16:07:50Z

Greg Buckland: 6" square vent takeoff (similar to one we plan to use to ventilate the Lasersaur cutting chamber

6" square vent takeoff (similar to one we plan to use to ventilate the [[Lasersaur]] cutting chamber

Lasersaur

2014-09-05T15:55:41Z

Greg Buckland: /* Links */

{{breadcrumb|Digital Fabrication|RepLab Tools|Laser Cutter}}

=Introduction=

Lasersaur is an open source [[Laser Cutter]] developed by [http://labs.nortd.com/ Nortd Labs]. [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stefan_Hechenberger Stefan Hechenberger] was a lead contributor.

OSE got a Lasersaur from Stefan in 2013. It was shipped from Europe and sat in the workshop until August 2014.

=Safety=

''from: http://www.lasersaur.com/manual/start''

The primary risks come from operating a CO2 laser tube. Please operate your first system with a laser source within your level of expertise, even if this is a laser pointer. From there work yourself up until you can safely run a high-powered system.

CO2 lasers involve high-energy infrared beams that may be reflected or scattered and can cause fire on many materials. '''Most importantly lasers may cause permanent damage to the eye. The best way to manage these kinds of risk is wearing protection glasses certified for CO2 wavelength''' and having proper fire extinguishers available at all times.

'''The second danger is high-voltage. Depending on the tube, you are looking at 25000-40000 volts. The power supplies are rated in the 50mA range which puts any electric shocks into lethal territory.''' One might be able to survive such a shock but depending on things like physical condition, length of shock, and the fact that the power supply may actually supply more amps temporarily puts this into the avoid-at-all-costs category. Also note that electricity at '''these voltages jumps through the air for several inches and be aware that the power supplies stay charged after disconnecting them''' from the outlet for quite some time.

Most countries have specific regulation for laser radiation that is typically dependent on the class of laser. Any laser that is suitable for cutting is class 4. Only after proper encasement and applying specifically regulated safety measures will a laser cutter be class 1.

=Bill of Materials=

See http://labs.nortd.com/lasersaur/bom-subsystems-usd

=Promotional Video=

<html><object width="400" height="225"><param name="allowfullscreen" value="true" /><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always" /><param name="movie" value="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=23871399&server=vimeo.com&show_title=0&show_byline=0&show_portrait=0&color=00adef&fullscreen=1&autoplay=0&loop=0" /><embed src="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=23871399&server=vimeo.com&show_title=0&show_byline=0&show_portrait=0&color=00adef&fullscreen=1&autoplay=0&loop=0" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" allowscriptaccess="always" width="400" height="225"></embed></object><p><a href="http://vimeo.com/23871399">lasersaur</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/stefanix">stefanix</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p>
</html>

=Links=

[[September 2014 Email with Stefan]] - has some notes on our 40W laser, good safety goggles, ventilation, etc.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/stfnix/5510019543/in/set-72157624491114826

http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/nortd/lasersaur-open-source-laser-cutter-0

http://labs.nortd.com/lasersaur/

Physics lecture about how CO2 lasers work: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-cLSnuXGC_U

Greg Log

2014-09-05T15:53:33Z

Greg Buckland: /* 2014 September 4 Thursday */

Work log for [[User:Greg Buckland]] who spent 9 weeks here in Summer 2014. See [[Greg Buckland Dedicated Project Visit Application]] for more info about him.

=2014 September 4 Thursday=
*Ordered two pairs [http://www.lasersafetyindustries.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=100-50-101&CartID=1 CO2 Laser Safety glasses] (for 10,600nm infrared lasers) - should be here Monday at the latest
*Tuned up our internet infrastructure, sketched out existing system:
((insert google drawing here and on Internet Wiki page))

*went shopping in Cameron (Walmart & Sutherland's) for Lasersaur and other supplies

=2014 September 3 Wednesday=
*Cleaned off [[Lasersaur]] table in workshop, inventoried parts, read through [http://www.lasersaur.com/manual/ Lasersaur Manual]
*Turned on power to the board (we detached power to the laser for safety), hooked up to the ethernet and logged in to http://lasersaur.local
*Moved stepper motors around and played with limits of cutter movement
*Assembled and tested air assist (connected and ran compressor and tested solenoid)
*Began to assemble chiller (hooked up and labeled hoses)
*Made shopping list for lasersaur needs
*Emailed Stefan to ask questions
*Began to sketch out schematic for Lasersaur
*Began to flesh out [[Lasersaur]] wiki page a bit more

=2014 Aug 30 Saturday thru 2014 September 2 Tuesday=
*Vacation and road trip to St. Louis with Hilary
=2014 August 29 Friday=
*uploaded version 8 sketchup files for Marcin
*Updated [[Internet, Phone, Domains, Server]] page with log of call and router reset from yesterday.

=2014 August 28 Thursday=
*Called CenturyLink and got HabLab wireless router working again (it needed to be reset by holding the reset button for 45 seconds)
*Updated [[Composting Toilet]] wiki and documentation
*Vacuumed HabLab common areas
*Cleaned solar cabin (right hand side) for Hilary's visit tomorrow
*Repaired bedframe in solar cabin (tack welded broken leg back on)
*Began reading through [[Lasersaur]] documentation / manual
*Continued improving/filling in this worklog

=2014 August 27 Wednesday=
*Moved microhouse lumber from south of new workshop to protected shelter east of old workshop
*Installed lock hardware and vent pipe cap on Composting Toilet
*worked on exploded parts diagram for Structural Powercube [[File:PCSF_vert.skp]]
[[File:draft_PC_expl.png|300px]]
*Began updating this worklog!!
'''IS THIS EXPLODED VERSION UPLOADED?''' - yes: [[File:PCSF_vert.skp]]

=2014 August 26 Tuesday=
*built shelves for my bedroom out of scrap materials
*swarmed on workshop cleanup (moved Microhouse 3 modules into old workshop, moved lumber out of the way, etc.)
*updated Composting Toilet CAD file
*led evening walkthrough/tutorial on Sketchup (walked through CAD drawing of barrel bolt latch design for toilet on the big screen)
[[File:barrel_bolt.png|300px]]
[[File:Barrel Bolt Lock.skp]]

=2014 August 25 Monday=
*completed fabrication of latch hardware for composting toilet
*worked on fabricating earth anchors to stake down the composting toilet (against possible wind intrusion)
*cleaned and dried tents left out in the rain & mud after microhouse workshop

=2014 August 23 Saturday=
*Deep cleaned Hablab kitchen, including dealing with [https://www.facebook.com/groups/1502145196684445/permalink/1519479808284317/ fermented watermelon]
*Swept & vacuumed Hablab living room and Pink room

=2014 August 22 Friday=
*Finished and installed doors, hinges, and door handles on composting toilet
{| class="wikitable"
|-
|[[File:outhouse_complete_small.jpg|190px]]
|[[File:showing_off_toilet_small.jpg|345px]]
|[[File:Composting_Toilet_Sketchup.png|300px]]
|}
*Cleaned up remaining tools and scrap materials at composting toilet site
*Began fabrication/design for barrel bolt latches for doors
*Finished fabricating vent pipe cap

=2014 August 21 Thursday=
*Collected materials on hand for designing and building doors for composting toilet (used scrap 1x lumber and unused 3/4" carsiding)
*Began layout and construction of doors

=2014 August 20 Wednesday=
*Installed handrails on composting toilet
*Patched a few stray roof holes
*Began fabrication of vent pipe cap

=2014 August 19 Tuesday=
*Assisted with Microhouse 3 documentation
*Installed stair stringers and treads.
*Installed vent pipe. 3.5" hole saw from Sutherland's broke within first 30 seconds of use (either mandrel or saw threads stripped immediately, allowing saw to spin freely instead of cut, and preventing removal/replacement of saw on mandrel). Worked around by firmly tightening a 5/8" nut on mandrel threads.

=2014 August 18 Monday=
*Worked on Microhouse 3 documentation, including updating Sketchup files
*Designed & laid out stairs for composting toilet. Revised design to accommodate existing mature tree on site (shortened tread length and steepened stair angle to ~42°)
{| class="wikitable"
|-
|[[File:stair_layout.png|350px]]
|[[File:toilet_stair_sideview.png|300px]]
|}
*Cut stringers for toilet stairs

=2014 August 16 Saturday=
*Purchased materials for composting toilet at Sutherland's: 3.5" hole saw and pipe boot for vent pipe, treated 2x12's for stair stringers

=2014 August 7 thru 12=
*Completed midnight construction of Composting Toilet (installing a step-ladder and curtains instead of permanent stairs and doors)
{| class="wikitable"
|-
|[[File:midnight_toilet1.jpg|250px]]
|[[File:midnight_toilet2.jpg|250px]]
|[[File:midnight_toilet3.jpg|250px]]
|}
*Microshouse 3 workshop
*Supervised workshop during construction of carpentry modules
*Assisted with CAD questions and Dozuki documentation
*Laid bricks and installed window modules at site

=2014 August 7 Thursday=
*Built walls and rafters for [[Composting Toilet]]
*Assembled in workshop with clamps
*Built stand for TV out of scraps from the formwork, setup TV and presentation equipment under geodesic dome in front of HabLab for workshop presentation.
[[File:TV_stand.jpg|200px]]

=2014 August 6 Wednesday=
*Finalized Sketchup design for walls of [[Composting Toilet]] [[File:Composting_Toilet.skp]]
*Built walls and rafters for [[Composting Toilet]] and clamped together for dry fit in workshop
{| class="wikitable"
|-
|[[File:workshop_toilet1.jpg|250px]]
|[[File:workshop_toilet2.jpg|250px]]
|[[File:workshop_toilet3.jpg|250px]]
|}

=2014 August 5 Tuesday=
*Worked on brick pressing crew 7am to 5pm
*Built 2 modules with Curtis (door and window) 10am-3am

=2014 August 4 Monday=
*Worked on brick pressing crew
*Visited site and began site prep for [[Composting Toilet]]
*Began sketchup work for [[Composting Toilet]]
*Worked with Stephen to remove concrete formwork from Microhouse foundation.

=2014 August 1 Friday=
*Completed formwork and assisted with concrete pouring
*Assisted with formwork and concrete pour in front of HabLab

=2014 July 28 Monday=
*Continued carpentry for formwork with Arif. Completed 2x4 frames

=2014 July 25 Friday=
*Continued carpentry for formwork with Victor. Began assembly of 2x4 frames

=2014 July 24 Thursday=
*Started carpentry for formwork: worked with Victor to setup the space, bring materials, get power to the site, and begin planning.

=2014 July 23 Wednesday=
*Returned to Factor-e Farm
*Drove Catarina to St. Joe on a hunt for a new laptop.

=2014 June 16 Monday thru June 20 Friday=
*Wisconsin for CEB Press Workshop, and Midwest Renewable Energy Fair. Returned to Boston June 20.

=2014 June 13 Friday=
*Continued work on 3D printers, CEB Press documentation, prep work for Wisconsin CEB Press workshop.

=2014 June 12 Thursday=
*Worked on master SKP file for CEB Press - working with layers, transparencies, etc. for creating functional schematic
*made 2 simple flat boxes with honeycomb - 1 stop ⅔ through, the other let it complete
*changed nozzle size setting in Slic3r to 0.5mm (and also increased layer hight to 0.5mm) - seems to work better! Seems that AO-100 has 0.5mm nozzle after all.
*worked on making fresher STL file for clampshells from SKP
*attempted ¼ size print - failed catastrophically - drifted in Y-axis, etc. Diagnosis: Z-stop too low, so Z-home presses nozzle too tightly agains the bed. Raised z-stop, and print was much better!

=2014 June 11 Wednesday=
*Presented 3D printing progress, challenges, learnings, including examination of 1st attempt at printing clampshell
*Reviewed [https://docs.google.com/presentation/d/11ZlpOzMNlIssL34HmSo-Q4j0asGqrDSd10Xue7zYJZQ/edit#slide=id.g351b52891_0280 CEB Press Drawer Module assembly instructions] in morning meeting
*Researched converting STEP files to SKP, and added to [[STEP to Sketchup]] wiki page
*Pulled clampshell file from CEB .SKP file, scaled to 1/4 size and exported to STL. Converted to .gcode using Slic3r at 0.75 infill. Print started OK, but about 20% of the way through, it was thrown off of the Y-axis by about 0.5" (20% of the 2.5" length). My working hypothesis is that working in other programs on my computer during the printing caused a serial error. To remedy this (and sleep/screensaver interruptions) I'm going to look into printing from Micro SD Card.
*Very good Micro SD Card printing instructions at the [http://www.lulzbot.com/support/3d-printing-microsd-card LulzBot site]. Successfully test printed bed level check from Micro SD Card.
*Also troubleshot blobby / pad printing on initial error. It was due to too much pressure between printhead and bed - see pictures below. I fixed it by raising the Z-endstop limit screw (see picture) and re-leveling print bed.
*Experimented with layer depth & infill. Found that 0.35 mm layer depth (equal to the nozzle size) works much better than the previous setting (which was 0.2 mm). Also honeycomb infill with a density of 0.3 works quite well for sturdy, relatively quick prints
*Began overnight print of full-size Female Clampshell with 0.3 density honeycomb infill. Fingers crossed!

=2014 June 10 Tuesday=
*Presented 3D printing results at morning meeting
*Began work on CEB Press .SKP
*Worked on Presentation on 3D Printing - [https://docs.google.com/a/opensourceecology.org/presentation/d/1csmBrlVIua4N-r2lH0gmbRBTo3uhPyPOd_EgnBuMY4A/edit#slide=id.g34eeff40f_020]
*Started rudimentary first print of [[File:01-222-00-2.STL]] for overnight printing

=2014 June 9 Monday=
*First day of work. Attended orientation, began worklog, hit the ground running.
*Worked on CEB Press [https://docs.google.com/presentation/d/11ZlpOzMNlIssL34HmSo-Q4j0asGqrDSd10Xue7zYJZQ/edit#slide=id.g34b07977b_617 Drawer Module documentation]
*Oriented self to basic CEB Press operation, brick compression process
*Swarmed on getting 3D printers up and running - worked on HYDRA Lulzbot. Got it connected to computer, leveled printbed pretty well. Ran into troubles with .gcode files - printer randomly stops prematurely, causing print to fail. Looks like Colten had similar troubles: [[Colten Jackson Log]]
*Successfully printed an Octopus on the TAZ out of pink PLA plastic:
[[File:3D print PLA Octopus.jpg|400px]]

=2014 June 8 Sunday=
Arrived at Factor-e Farm. Got settled in, setup living situation, met team.

Greg Log

2014-09-05T00:33:25Z

Greg Buckland:

Work log for [[User:Greg Buckland]] who spent 9 weeks here in Summer 2014. See [[Greg Buckland Dedicated Project Visit Application]] for more info about him.

=2014 September 4 Thursday=
*Ordered two pairs [http://www.lasersafetyindustries.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=100-50-101&CartID=1 CO2 Laser Safety glasses] (for 10,600nm infrared lasers) - should be here Monday at the latest
*Tuned up our internet infrastructure, sketched out existing system

=2014 September 3 Wednesday=
*Cleaned off [[Lasersaur]] table in workshop, inventoried parts, read through [http://www.lasersaur.com/manual/ Lasersaur Manual]
*Turned on power to the board (we detached power to the laser for safety), hooked up to the ethernet and logged in to http://lasersaur.local
*Moved stepper motors around and played with limits of cutter movement
*Assembled and tested air assist (connected and ran compressor and tested solenoid)
*Began to assemble chiller (hooked up and labeled hoses)
*Made shopping list for lasersaur needs
*Emailed Stefan to ask questions
*Began to sketch out schematic for Lasersaur
*Began to flesh out [[Lasersaur]] wiki page a bit more

=2014 Aug 30 Saturday thru 2014 September 2 Tuesday=
*Vacation and road trip to St. Louis with Hilary
=2014 August 29 Friday=
*uploaded version 8 sketchup files for Marcin
*Updated [[Internet, Phone, Domains, Server]] page with log of call and router reset from yesterday.

=2014 August 28 Thursday=
*Called CenturyLink and got HabLab wireless router working again (it needed to be reset by holding the reset button for 45 seconds)
*Updated [[Composting Toilet]] wiki and documentation
*Vacuumed HabLab common areas
*Cleaned solar cabin (right hand side) for Hilary's visit tomorrow
*Repaired bedframe in solar cabin (tack welded broken leg back on)
*Began reading through [[Lasersaur]] documentation / manual
*Continued improving/filling in this worklog

=2014 August 27 Wednesday=
*Moved microhouse lumber from south of new workshop to protected shelter east of old workshop
*Installed lock hardware and vent pipe cap on Composting Toilet
*worked on exploded parts diagram for Structural Powercube [[File:PCSF_vert.skp]]
[[File:draft_PC_expl.png|300px]]
*Began updating this worklog!!
'''IS THIS EXPLODED VERSION UPLOADED?''' - yes: [[File:PCSF_vert.skp]]

=2014 August 26 Tuesday=
*built shelves for my bedroom out of scrap materials
*swarmed on workshop cleanup (moved Microhouse 3 modules into old workshop, moved lumber out of the way, etc.)
*updated Composting Toilet CAD file
*led evening walkthrough/tutorial on Sketchup (walked through CAD drawing of barrel bolt latch design for toilet on the big screen)
[[File:barrel_bolt.png|300px]]
[[File:Barrel Bolt Lock.skp]]

=2014 August 25 Monday=
*completed fabrication of latch hardware for composting toilet
*worked on fabricating earth anchors to stake down the composting toilet (against possible wind intrusion)
*cleaned and dried tents left out in the rain & mud after microhouse workshop

=2014 August 23 Saturday=
*Deep cleaned Hablab kitchen, including dealing with [https://www.facebook.com/groups/1502145196684445/permalink/1519479808284317/ fermented watermelon]
*Swept & vacuumed Hablab living room and Pink room

=2014 August 22 Friday=
*Finished and installed doors, hinges, and door handles on composting toilet
{| class="wikitable"
|-
|[[File:outhouse_complete_small.jpg|190px]]
|[[File:showing_off_toilet_small.jpg|345px]]
|[[File:Composting_Toilet_Sketchup.png|300px]]
|}
*Cleaned up remaining tools and scrap materials at composting toilet site
*Began fabrication/design for barrel bolt latches for doors
*Finished fabricating vent pipe cap

=2014 August 21 Thursday=
*Collected materials on hand for designing and building doors for composting toilet (used scrap 1x lumber and unused 3/4" carsiding)
*Began layout and construction of doors

=2014 August 20 Wednesday=
*Installed handrails on composting toilet
*Patched a few stray roof holes
*Began fabrication of vent pipe cap

=2014 August 19 Tuesday=
*Assisted with Microhouse 3 documentation
*Installed stair stringers and treads.
*Installed vent pipe. 3.5" hole saw from Sutherland's broke within first 30 seconds of use (either mandrel or saw threads stripped immediately, allowing saw to spin freely instead of cut, and preventing removal/replacement of saw on mandrel). Worked around by firmly tightening a 5/8" nut on mandrel threads.

=2014 August 18 Monday=
*Worked on Microhouse 3 documentation, including updating Sketchup files
*Designed & laid out stairs for composting toilet. Revised design to accommodate existing mature tree on site (shortened tread length and steepened stair angle to ~42°)
{| class="wikitable"
|-
|[[File:stair_layout.png|350px]]
|[[File:toilet_stair_sideview.png|300px]]
|}
*Cut stringers for toilet stairs

=2014 August 16 Saturday=
*Purchased materials for composting toilet at Sutherland's: 3.5" hole saw and pipe boot for vent pipe, treated 2x12's for stair stringers

=2014 August 7 thru 12=
*Completed midnight construction of Composting Toilet (installing a step-ladder and curtains instead of permanent stairs and doors)
{| class="wikitable"
|-
|[[File:midnight_toilet1.jpg|250px]]
|[[File:midnight_toilet2.jpg|250px]]
|[[File:midnight_toilet3.jpg|250px]]
|}
*Microshouse 3 workshop
*Supervised workshop during construction of carpentry modules
*Assisted with CAD questions and Dozuki documentation
*Laid bricks and installed window modules at site

=2014 August 7 Thursday=
*Built walls and rafters for [[Composting Toilet]]
*Assembled in workshop with clamps
*Built stand for TV out of scraps from the formwork, setup TV and presentation equipment under geodesic dome in front of HabLab for workshop presentation.
[[File:TV_stand.jpg|200px]]

=2014 August 6 Wednesday=
*Finalized Sketchup design for walls of [[Composting Toilet]] [[File:Composting_Toilet.skp]]
*Built walls and rafters for [[Composting Toilet]] and clamped together for dry fit in workshop
{| class="wikitable"
|-
|[[File:workshop_toilet1.jpg|250px]]
|[[File:workshop_toilet2.jpg|250px]]
|[[File:workshop_toilet3.jpg|250px]]
|}

=2014 August 5 Tuesday=
*Worked on brick pressing crew 7am to 5pm
*Built 2 modules with Curtis (door and window) 10am-3am

=2014 August 4 Monday=
*Worked on brick pressing crew
*Visited site and began site prep for [[Composting Toilet]]
*Began sketchup work for [[Composting Toilet]]
*Worked with Stephen to remove concrete formwork from Microhouse foundation.

=2014 August 1 Friday=
*Completed formwork and assisted with concrete pouring
*Assisted with formwork and concrete pour in front of HabLab

=2014 July 28 Monday=
*Continued carpentry for formwork with Arif. Completed 2x4 frames

=2014 July 25 Friday=
*Continued carpentry for formwork with Victor. Began assembly of 2x4 frames

=2014 July 24 Thursday=
*Started carpentry for formwork: worked with Victor to setup the space, bring materials, get power to the site, and begin planning.

=2014 July 23 Wednesday=
*Returned to Factor-e Farm
*Drove Catarina to St. Joe on a hunt for a new laptop.

=2014 June 16 Monday thru June 20 Friday=
*Wisconsin for CEB Press Workshop, and Midwest Renewable Energy Fair. Returned to Boston June 20.

=2014 June 13 Friday=
*Continued work on 3D printers, CEB Press documentation, prep work for Wisconsin CEB Press workshop.

=2014 June 12 Thursday=
*Worked on master SKP file for CEB Press - working with layers, transparencies, etc. for creating functional schematic
*made 2 simple flat boxes with honeycomb - 1 stop ⅔ through, the other let it complete
*changed nozzle size setting in Slic3r to 0.5mm (and also increased layer hight to 0.5mm) - seems to work better! Seems that AO-100 has 0.5mm nozzle after all.
*worked on making fresher STL file for clampshells from SKP
*attempted ¼ size print - failed catastrophically - drifted in Y-axis, etc. Diagnosis: Z-stop too low, so Z-home presses nozzle too tightly agains the bed. Raised z-stop, and print was much better!

=2014 June 11 Wednesday=
*Presented 3D printing progress, challenges, learnings, including examination of 1st attempt at printing clampshell
*Reviewed [https://docs.google.com/presentation/d/11ZlpOzMNlIssL34HmSo-Q4j0asGqrDSd10Xue7zYJZQ/edit#slide=id.g351b52891_0280 CEB Press Drawer Module assembly instructions] in morning meeting
*Researched converting STEP files to SKP, and added to [[STEP to Sketchup]] wiki page
*Pulled clampshell file from CEB .SKP file, scaled to 1/4 size and exported to STL. Converted to .gcode using Slic3r at 0.75 infill. Print started OK, but about 20% of the way through, it was thrown off of the Y-axis by about 0.5" (20% of the 2.5" length). My working hypothesis is that working in other programs on my computer during the printing caused a serial error. To remedy this (and sleep/screensaver interruptions) I'm going to look into printing from Micro SD Card.
*Very good Micro SD Card printing instructions at the [http://www.lulzbot.com/support/3d-printing-microsd-card LulzBot site]. Successfully test printed bed level check from Micro SD Card.
*Also troubleshot blobby / pad printing on initial error. It was due to too much pressure between printhead and bed - see pictures below. I fixed it by raising the Z-endstop limit screw (see picture) and re-leveling print bed.
*Experimented with layer depth & infill. Found that 0.35 mm layer depth (equal to the nozzle size) works much better than the previous setting (which was 0.2 mm). Also honeycomb infill with a density of 0.3 works quite well for sturdy, relatively quick prints
*Began overnight print of full-size Female Clampshell with 0.3 density honeycomb infill. Fingers crossed!

=2014 June 10 Tuesday=
*Presented 3D printing results at morning meeting
*Began work on CEB Press .SKP
*Worked on Presentation on 3D Printing - [https://docs.google.com/a/opensourceecology.org/presentation/d/1csmBrlVIua4N-r2lH0gmbRBTo3uhPyPOd_EgnBuMY4A/edit#slide=id.g34eeff40f_020]
*Started rudimentary first print of [[File:01-222-00-2.STL]] for overnight printing

=2014 June 9 Monday=
*First day of work. Attended orientation, began worklog, hit the ground running.
*Worked on CEB Press [https://docs.google.com/presentation/d/11ZlpOzMNlIssL34HmSo-Q4j0asGqrDSd10Xue7zYJZQ/edit#slide=id.g34b07977b_617 Drawer Module documentation]
*Oriented self to basic CEB Press operation, brick compression process
*Swarmed on getting 3D printers up and running - worked on HYDRA Lulzbot. Got it connected to computer, leveled printbed pretty well. Ran into troubles with .gcode files - printer randomly stops prematurely, causing print to fail. Looks like Colten had similar troubles: [[Colten Jackson Log]]
*Successfully printed an Octopus on the TAZ out of pink PLA plastic:
[[File:3D print PLA Octopus.jpg|400px]]

=2014 June 8 Sunday=
Arrived at Factor-e Farm. Got settled in, setup living situation, met team.

Lasersaur

2014-09-04T13:00:48Z

Greg Buckland: /* Links */

Lasersaur

2014-09-03T23:39:15Z

Greg Buckland:

File:Barrel Bolt Lock.skp

2014-08-29T14:47:20Z

Greg Buckland: Greg Buckland uploaded a new version of "File:Barrel Bolt Lock.skp": Same as previous file, but this one is Sketchup v8

OSE Internet

2014-08-29T14:45:50Z

Greg Buckland: /* Log */

=Domains and Server=

*Pingdom monitors wiki URL, sending notifications to webadmin@opensourceecology.org and ops@opensourceecology.org. Uptime Robot monitors wiki and forum URLs, sending notifications to webadmin@opensourceecology.org. Hetzner is OSE’s server, Client ID: C0704628411, Support number: +49 (0) 9831 61006-1. Report to issues to Executive Staff.

*Hetzner is OSE’s server, see hard-copy information in HabLab office.

/are any of these working? i tried them all this past week at diff hours in the day without any response :(

=Internet and Phone=
*Lines - (816) 449-1226,for microhouse, (816) 449-1224 for HabLab, and (816) 449-2045 for huts/workshop
'''*For all issues call CenturyLink help''' - 800.809.1410, Press 2 for existing customers, Press 5 for repair and tech support
**official speed test - http://lasvegas.speedtest.centurylink.net/
**Independent HTML5-based speed test - http://speedof.me/
*Customer care, such as extra lines - 800.788.3500
*Tony F - internet line technician - 816.244.7803
The account number is our telephone number: 8164491224, and second one, 816.2045

=Log=

==Thu Aug 28, 2014==
HabLab router had been down for about 1 week. It had green lights for "power" and "dsl", but a steady red light for "Internet". Not broadcasting an SSID. Called CenturyLink at 800.809.1410. Tech help walked me through the reset process:
*unplug router for 30 sec and plug back in (soft reset).
*If that doesn't help (it didn't), then with power plugged in, press the red reset button (with a pen or paperclip) and hold it for 45 sec (factory reset). It then reverts to factory settings (e.g SSID: CenturyLink7668 and default password). All the factory settings info is on the boilerplate on the bottom of the router.
*Then you can log in to the router (ideally via hard wired ethernet connection) and change SSID to "HabLab" and security to "none".

==Thu Feb 13, 2014==
Call to Century Link on January 8, 2014 at 877.744.4416. Spoke with Leslie. Discussed various options and decided to go on "inactive" status at $51/month plus tax. Allowed to remain on that status for 9 months. -- To reactivate it would take about 3 days. Call 866-614-5166 to reactivate, cancel, or change service. Service changed to a $116 plan per month with a $10 discount for 10 months, so about $106 for the next 12 months. The internet only line needs to be renegotiated in 1 year of time to retain $35/month fee. Need to consider satellite line for more internet.

== Information==

As of February, 2014:

*Voice - 8164491224

==Information and Action on Sep 23, 2013==
*Phone and Internet down, CenturyLink sending technician by 11AM CST Sep 24 (Tuesday)
**Road construction on SW Willow is possibly the cause

==Information and Action on Sep 16, 2013==
*Called support: 1-800-786-6272 and spoke to Reggie; determined the OSEtwo DSL line is 8164492307; this line is not appearing remotely so they require someone to hard-wire in to the modem. to change the password. Since there is no phone down there...I would have to run back and forth to get troubleshooting step instructions. This is not a viable option. 1) We need a phone down there. 2) We should migrate the line from the mosquito hut to the workshop so the workshop has connectivity throughout and install a phone on the line.
Over to Katie.

==Information and Action on Sep 13, 2013==
*Internet lines changed to OSEone and OSEtwo - No reason for change other than called Centurylink to troubleshoot connectiviey problems and the representative made the changes without prompting.
**Password for both lines is maysville2013
*Still have the HabLab line, which the representative said he changed to OSEone

==Information and Action on Aug 22, 2013==
*CenturyLink tech installed new wireless modem

==Information and Action on Aug 21, 2013==
*Spoke with CenturyLink support:
**Learned that one of OSE internet lines has been ''on vacation'' since Feb 2013. This was not communicated during previous calls to CenturyLink on July 12, 2013. To compensate, CenturyLink is providing internet service for 1 year at a discount rate. The rate expires and increases on August 22, 2014; order number associated: 1182581932
*During technical assistance call:
**Troubleshoot DSL/phone line filter. Filter is not the problem.
**CenturyLink verified the problem is not a programing issue.
**Intermittent sync - speed issue on customer end, so tech will verify surfing speed with customer on location - no later than 340PM CST, ticket number 6152743

=Internet Line 1 - Cordwood=
*Internet line fixed from 1.5 to 4MB on 4/12/14.
*We got a wireless bridge -

'''The Problem'''

Factor e Farm needs a network solution that allows OSE to connect the various buildings that are currently on site as well as buildings that will be added in the future.

'''Century Link Router'''

The only real purpose of this router is to serve as a modem to the DSL connection from the internet service provider (ISP). This router is operating as the DHCP server for the HabLab network, meaning that it is providing IP addresses for any wireless repeaters or access points that are added to the network (including the TP-Link WiFi router I set up on 3/13/14). This router is not broadcasting a WiFi network.

'''Linksys WRT54GL'''

This piece of hardware is running Tomato as its operating system, an open source router administration program. It is located in the shelves and connected by eth0 to the CenturyLink pk5001a modem in the mud hut. It is set up to operate as an access point for the HabLab network. The SSID is 'wireless.'

'''Testing'''

I managed to successfully connect to the Internet through the TP-Link router using this system. Testing in the Microhouse was a minor success as the internet connection worked, but was exceedingly slow. I decided this was most likely due to the TP-Link not having the range to comminicate back to the Linksys switch. I advised Marcin to connect a directional antenna to the TP-Link to solve this problem. I also suspect the signal is being hampered by brush and tree branches; placing it in a high, clear position should improve this.

'''Results'''

<html><img src="https://docs.google.com/drawings/d/1nG7w75a__K0oBkolESkWKzUQfVVA8CZXdx1_IVBAnt8/pub?w=426&h=320"></html>

[https://docs.google.com/drawings/d/1nG7w75a__K0oBkolESkWKzUQfVVA8CZXdx1_IVBAnt8/edit edit]

This system is operational and provides OSE with a good basis to design more advance networking solutions. The Linksys WR54GL is extremely versatile with Tomato installed, but is limited to the 802.11b/g protocols. This means the point-to-point connections will be limited to 54 Mbps; sufficient for now (the dsl connection only gets speeds of 4.0 Mbps), but it will turn into a bottle-neck as the network continues to scale up.

'''The Next Steps'''

Based on these results, it seems it would be relatively easy to connect many sites around Factor e Farm using a similar combination of point-to-point and localized WiFi networks. It should also be possible to build a mesh network using Tomato-enabled Linksys routers, [http://www.dslreports.com/forum/r22572390-Tomato-Building-a-Wireless-Mesh-Network-Routers-wired something like what is described here]

=HabLab Line=
*4MB working internet, 3/11/14

=Communications=
Ben to Marcin -

I have attached all of the configuration materials for the routers at Factor e Farm, and I've updated the wiki page for OSE Internet with a description of what I did on Thursday. I think this should be enough information for you to get access to everything and make any changes that are needed. I also wanted to let you know I took down some of the pictures. I'm not entirely sure if sharing MAC addresses can be a security risk or not, so I figured it would be safer to remove them.

One thing that I didn't have time for was to password protect the two WiFi networks, and like I said this can be a significant privacy issue. I recommend you set up WPA2 Personal security on both the HabLab and OSEone networks.

HabLab

*If you are connected to the HabLab network you should be able to access everything through wifi, otherwise you can just connect to a device using an ethernet cable. The security for this network needs to be set through the Linksys Router (the admin details are in the txt attachement).
*Connect to the router through it's IP address.
*Click 'Basic' on the left sidebar
*Scroll down to the wireless section.
*Choose the drop down menu labeled security.
*Select WAP2 Personal/Enterprise
*Enter the desired password.
*The network might work fine after this point, but you might need to reconfigure the TP-Link to connect again. This can be done by just running through the initial set up on the device and telling it to work as a repeater for the HabLab network.

OSEOne

You can set the password for this network through the Century Link router in the HabLab. The login details for this are on the bottom of the router.

I wish I had more time to spend on the network while I was there, but regardless, doing this has given me a lot of ideas for things I could be set up to improve the network around the farm. With all of the construction you guys are looking to do this year, it would probably be beneficial to get internet services to each area. What I set up last Thursday could form the groundwork for a mesh network at Factor e Farm to connect everything.

I think I am going to spend some time in the coming weeks looking into what it would take to scale up something like what I did for the MicroHouse. It looks possible to create a network that would connect the HabLab, the two workshops, campsite, and any Microhouses or other structures together.

=Equipment Links=
*zBoost cell phone booster - [http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003VOW5WI/ref=pe_385040_30332200_pe_309540_26725410_item]
*TP Link Access Point - [http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002YETVXC/ref=pe_385040_30332200_pe_309540_26725410_item] - 3*5dBi Detachable Omni Directional (RP-SMA) - [http://www.tp-link.com/resources/document/TL-WA901ND_V3_Datasheet.pdf]
*Directional Antenna - [http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CJ1IARI/ref=pe_385040_30332190_TE_3p_M3T1_ST1_dp_1] - RP-SMA Connection to Router/Access Point)

=Links=
*Support/tech phone for Centurytel - [[Internet, Phone, Domains, Server]]
*Network Setup - [https://docs.google.com/a/opensourceecology.org/document/d/1HTkBVB8_WUvuUnHUH0zK313SqV2wcr6_fe17Z7qzT40/edit]
*[[OSE_Network_Plan_2014]]

Greg Log

2014-08-29T14:35:49Z

Greg Buckland: /* 2014 August 28 Thursday */

Work log for [[User:Greg Buckland]] who spent 9 weeks here in Summer 2014. See [[Greg Buckland Dedicated Project Visit Application]] for more info about him.

=2014 August 29 Friday=
*uploaded version 8 sketchup files for Marcin
*Updated [[Internet, Phone, Domains, Server]] page with log of call and router reset from yesterday.

=2014 August 28 Thursday=
*Called CenturyLink and got HabLab wireless router working again (it needed to be reset by holding the reset button for 45 seconds)
*Updated [[Composting Toilet]] wiki and documentation
*Vacuumed HabLab common areas
*Cleaned solar cabin (right hand side) for Hilary's visit tomorrow
*Repaired bedframe in solar cabin (tack welded broken leg back on)
*Began reading through [[Lasersaur]] documentation / manual
*Continued improving/filling in this worklog

=2014 August 27 Wednesday=
*Moved microhouse lumber from south of new workshop to protected shelter east of old workshop
*Installed lock hardware and vent pipe cap on Composting Toilet
*worked on exploded parts diagram for Structural Powercube [[File:PCSF_vert.skp]]
[[File:draft_PC_expl.png|300px]]
*Began updating this worklog!!
'''IS THIS EXPLODED VERSION UPLOADED?''' - yes: [[File:PCSF_vert.skp]]

=2014 August 26 Tuesday=
*built shelves for my bedroom out of scrap materials
*swarmed on workshop cleanup (moved Microhouse 3 modules into old workshop, moved lumber out of the way, etc.)
*updated Composting Toilet CAD file
*led evening walkthrough/tutorial on Sketchup (walked through CAD drawing of barrel bolt latch design for toilet on the big screen)
[[File:barrel_bolt.png|300px]]
[[File:Barrel Bolt Lock.skp]]

=2014 August 25 Monday=
*completed fabrication of latch hardware for composting toilet
*worked on fabricating earth anchors to stake down the composting toilet (against possible wind intrusion)
*cleaned and dried tents left out in the rain & mud after microhouse workshop

=2014 August 23 Saturday=
*Deep cleaned Hablab kitchen, including dealing with [https://www.facebook.com/groups/1502145196684445/permalink/1519479808284317/ fermented watermelon]
*Swept & vacuumed Hablab living room and Pink room

=2014 August 22 Friday=
*Finished and installed doors, hinges, and door handles on composting toilet
{| class="wikitable"
|-
|[[File:outhouse_complete_small.jpg|190px]]
|[[File:showing_off_toilet_small.jpg|345px]]
|[[File:Composting_Toilet_Sketchup.png|300px]]
|}
*Cleaned up remaining tools and scrap materials at composting toilet site
*Began fabrication/design for barrel bolt latches for doors
*Finished fabricating vent pipe cap

=2014 August 21 Thursday=
*Collected materials on hand for designing and building doors for composting toilet (used scrap 1x lumber and unused 3/4" carsiding)
*Began layout and construction of doors

=2014 August 20 Wednesday=
*Installed handrails on composting toilet
*Patched a few stray roof holes
*Began fabrication of vent pipe cap

=2014 August 19 Tuesday=
*Assisted with Microhouse 3 documentation
*Installed stair stringers and treads.
*Installed vent pipe. 3.5" hole saw from Sutherland's broke within first 30 seconds of use (either mandrel or saw threads stripped immediately, allowing saw to spin freely instead of cut, and preventing removal/replacement of saw on mandrel). Worked around by firmly tightening a 5/8" nut on mandrel threads.

=2014 August 18 Monday=
*Worked on Microhouse 3 documentation, including updating Sketchup files
*Designed & laid out stairs for composting toilet. Revised design to accommodate existing mature tree on site (shortened tread length and steepened stair angle to ~42°)
{| class="wikitable"
|-
|[[File:stair_layout.png|350px]]
|[[File:toilet_stair_sideview.png|300px]]
|}
*Cut stringers for toilet stairs

=2014 August 16 Saturday=
*Purchased materials for composting toilet at Sutherland's: 3.5" hole saw and pipe boot for vent pipe, treated 2x12's for stair stringers

=2014 August 7 thru 12=
*Completed midnight construction of Composting Toilet (installing a step-ladder and curtains instead of permanent stairs and doors)
{| class="wikitable"
|-
|[[File:midnight_toilet1.jpg|250px]]
|[[File:midnight_toilet2.jpg|250px]]
|[[File:midnight_toilet3.jpg|250px]]
|}
*Microshouse 3 workshop
*Supervised workshop during construction of carpentry modules
*Assisted with CAD questions and Dozuki documentation
*Laid bricks and installed window modules at site

=2014 August 7 Thursday=
*Built walls and rafters for [[Composting Toilet]]
*Assembled in workshop with clamps
*Built stand for TV out of scraps from the formwork, setup TV and presentation equipment under geodesic dome in front of HabLab for workshop presentation.
[[File:TV_stand.jpg|200px]]

=2014 August 6 Wednesday=
*Finalized Sketchup design for walls of [[Composting Toilet]] [[File:Composting_Toilet.skp]]
*Built walls and rafters for [[Composting Toilet]] and clamped together for dry fit in workshop
{| class="wikitable"
|-
|[[File:workshop_toilet1.jpg|250px]]
|[[File:workshop_toilet2.jpg|250px]]
|[[File:workshop_toilet3.jpg|250px]]
|}

=2014 August 5 Tuesday=
*Worked on brick pressing crew 7am to 5pm
*Built 2 modules with Curtis (door and window) 10am-3am

=2014 August 4 Monday=
*Worked on brick pressing crew
*Visited site and began site prep for [[Composting Toilet]]
*Began sketchup work for [[Composting Toilet]]
*Worked with Stephen to remove concrete formwork from Microhouse foundation.

=2014 August 1 Friday=
*Completed formwork and assisted with concrete pouring
*Assisted with formwork and concrete pour in front of HabLab

=2014 July 28 Monday=
*Continued carpentry for formwork with Arif. Completed 2x4 frames

=2014 July 25 Friday=
*Continued carpentry for formwork with Victor. Began assembly of 2x4 frames

=2014 July 24 Thursday=
*Started carpentry for formwork: worked with Victor to setup the space, bring materials, get power to the site, and begin planning.

=2014 July 23 Wednesday=
*Returned to Factor-e Farm
*Drove Catarina to St. Joe on a hunt for a new laptop.

=2014 June 16 Monday thru June 20 Friday=
*Wisconsin for CEB Press Workshop, and Midwest Renewable Energy Fair. Returned to Boston June 20.

=2014 June 13 Friday=
*Continued work on 3D printers, CEB Press documentation, prep work for Wisconsin CEB Press workshop.

=2014 June 12 Thursday=
*Worked on master SKP file for CEB Press - working with layers, transparencies, etc. for creating functional schematic
*made 2 simple flat boxes with honeycomb - 1 stop ⅔ through, the other let it complete
*changed nozzle size setting in Slic3r to 0.5mm (and also increased layer hight to 0.5mm) - seems to work better! Seems that AO-100 has 0.5mm nozzle after all.
*worked on making fresher STL file for clampshells from SKP
*attempted ¼ size print - failed catastrophically - drifted in Y-axis, etc. Diagnosis: Z-stop too low, so Z-home presses nozzle too tightly agains the bed. Raised z-stop, and print was much better!

=2014 June 11 Wednesday=
*Presented 3D printing progress, challenges, learnings, including examination of 1st attempt at printing clampshell
*Reviewed [https://docs.google.com/presentation/d/11ZlpOzMNlIssL34HmSo-Q4j0asGqrDSd10Xue7zYJZQ/edit#slide=id.g351b52891_0280 CEB Press Drawer Module assembly instructions] in morning meeting
*Researched converting STEP files to SKP, and added to [[STEP to Sketchup]] wiki page
*Pulled clampshell file from CEB .SKP file, scaled to 1/4 size and exported to STL. Converted to .gcode using Slic3r at 0.75 infill. Print started OK, but about 20% of the way through, it was thrown off of the Y-axis by about 0.5" (20% of the 2.5" length). My working hypothesis is that working in other programs on my computer during the printing caused a serial error. To remedy this (and sleep/screensaver interruptions) I'm going to look into printing from Micro SD Card.
*Very good Micro SD Card printing instructions at the [http://www.lulzbot.com/support/3d-printing-microsd-card LulzBot site]. Successfully test printed bed level check from Micro SD Card.
*Also troubleshot blobby / pad printing on initial error. It was due to too much pressure between printhead and bed - see pictures below. I fixed it by raising the Z-endstop limit screw (see picture) and re-leveling print bed.
*Experimented with layer depth & infill. Found that 0.35 mm layer depth (equal to the nozzle size) works much better than the previous setting (which was 0.2 mm). Also honeycomb infill with a density of 0.3 works quite well for sturdy, relatively quick prints
*Began overnight print of full-size Female Clampshell with 0.3 density honeycomb infill. Fingers crossed!

=2014 June 10 Tuesday=
*Presented 3D printing results at morning meeting
*Began work on CEB Press .SKP
*Worked on Presentation on 3D Printing - [https://docs.google.com/a/opensourceecology.org/presentation/d/1csmBrlVIua4N-r2lH0gmbRBTo3uhPyPOd_EgnBuMY4A/edit#slide=id.g34eeff40f_020]
*Started rudimentary first print of [[File:01-222-00-2.STL]] for overnight printing

=2014 June 9 Monday=
*First day of work. Attended orientation, began worklog, hit the ground running.
*Worked on CEB Press [https://docs.google.com/presentation/d/11ZlpOzMNlIssL34HmSo-Q4j0asGqrDSd10Xue7zYJZQ/edit#slide=id.g34b07977b_617 Drawer Module documentation]
*Oriented self to basic CEB Press operation, brick compression process
*Swarmed on getting 3D printers up and running - worked on HYDRA Lulzbot. Got it connected to computer, leveled printbed pretty well. Ran into troubles with .gcode files - printer randomly stops prematurely, causing print to fail. Looks like Colten had similar troubles: [[Colten Jackson Log]]
*Successfully printed an Octopus on the TAZ out of pink PLA plastic:
[[File:3D print PLA Octopus.jpg|400px]]

=2014 June 8 Sunday=
Arrived at Factor-e Farm. Got settled in, setup living situation, met team.

File:PCSF vert.skp

2014-08-29T14:32:23Z

Greg Buckland: Greg Buckland uploaded a new version of "File:PCSF vert.skp": Same as previous, but this one is Sketchup v8

OSE Internet

2014-08-29T14:31:23Z

Greg Buckland: /* Internet and Phone */

=Domains and Server=

*Pingdom monitors wiki URL, sending notifications to webadmin@opensourceecology.org and ops@opensourceecology.org. Uptime Robot monitors wiki and forum URLs, sending notifications to webadmin@opensourceecology.org. Hetzner is OSE’s server, Client ID: C0704628411, Support number: +49 (0) 9831 61006-1. Report to issues to Executive Staff.

*Hetzner is OSE’s server, see hard-copy information in HabLab office.

/are any of these working? i tried them all this past week at diff hours in the day without any response :(

=Internet and Phone=
*Lines - (816) 449-1226,for microhouse, (816) 449-1224 for HabLab, and (816) 449-2045 for huts/workshop
'''*For all issues call CenturyLink help''' - 800.809.1410, Press 2 for existing customers, Press 5 for repair and tech support
**official speed test - http://lasvegas.speedtest.centurylink.net/
**Independent HTML5-based speed test - http://speedof.me/
*Customer care, such as extra lines - 800.788.3500
*Tony F - internet line technician - 816.244.7803
The account number is our telephone number: 8164491224, and second one, 816.2045

=Log=

==Thu Feb 13, 2014==
Call to Century Link on January 8, 2014 at 877.744.4416. Spoke with Leslie. Discussed various options and decided to go on "inactive" status at $51/month plus tax. Allowed to remain on that status for 9 months. -- To reactivate it would take about 3 days. Call 866-614-5166 to reactivate, cancel, or change service. Service changed to a $116 plan per month with a $10 discount for 10 months, so about $106 for the next 12 months. The internet only line needs to be renegotiated in 1 year of time to retain $35/month fee. Need to consider satellite line for more internet.

== Information==

As of February, 2014:

*Voice - 8164491224

==Information and Action on Sep 23, 2013==
*Phone and Internet down, CenturyLink sending technician by 11AM CST Sep 24 (Tuesday)
**Road construction on SW Willow is possibly the cause

==Information and Action on Sep 16, 2013==
*Called support: 1-800-786-6272 and spoke to Reggie; determined the OSEtwo DSL line is 8164492307; this line is not appearing remotely so they require someone to hard-wire in to the modem. to change the password. Since there is no phone down there...I would have to run back and forth to get troubleshooting step instructions. This is not a viable option. 1) We need a phone down there. 2) We should migrate the line from the mosquito hut to the workshop so the workshop has connectivity throughout and install a phone on the line.
Over to Katie.

==Information and Action on Sep 13, 2013==
*Internet lines changed to OSEone and OSEtwo - No reason for change other than called Centurylink to troubleshoot connectiviey problems and the representative made the changes without prompting.
**Password for both lines is maysville2013
*Still have the HabLab line, which the representative said he changed to OSEone

==Information and Action on Aug 22, 2013==
*CenturyLink tech installed new wireless modem

==Information and Action on Aug 21, 2013==
*Spoke with CenturyLink support:
**Learned that one of OSE internet lines has been ''on vacation'' since Feb 2013. This was not communicated during previous calls to CenturyLink on July 12, 2013. To compensate, CenturyLink is providing internet service for 1 year at a discount rate. The rate expires and increases on August 22, 2014; order number associated: 1182581932
*During technical assistance call:
**Troubleshoot DSL/phone line filter. Filter is not the problem.
**CenturyLink verified the problem is not a programing issue.
**Intermittent sync - speed issue on customer end, so tech will verify surfing speed with customer on location - no later than 340PM CST, ticket number 6152743

=Internet Line 1 - Cordwood=
*Internet line fixed from 1.5 to 4MB on 4/12/14.
*We got a wireless bridge -

'''The Problem'''

Factor e Farm needs a network solution that allows OSE to connect the various buildings that are currently on site as well as buildings that will be added in the future.

'''Century Link Router'''

The only real purpose of this router is to serve as a modem to the DSL connection from the internet service provider (ISP). This router is operating as the DHCP server for the HabLab network, meaning that it is providing IP addresses for any wireless repeaters or access points that are added to the network (including the TP-Link WiFi router I set up on 3/13/14). This router is not broadcasting a WiFi network.

'''Linksys WRT54GL'''

This piece of hardware is running Tomato as its operating system, an open source router administration program. It is located in the shelves and connected by eth0 to the CenturyLink pk5001a modem in the mud hut. It is set up to operate as an access point for the HabLab network. The SSID is 'wireless.'

'''Testing'''

I managed to successfully connect to the Internet through the TP-Link router using this system. Testing in the Microhouse was a minor success as the internet connection worked, but was exceedingly slow. I decided this was most likely due to the TP-Link not having the range to comminicate back to the Linksys switch. I advised Marcin to connect a directional antenna to the TP-Link to solve this problem. I also suspect the signal is being hampered by brush and tree branches; placing it in a high, clear position should improve this.

'''Results'''

<html><img src="https://docs.google.com/drawings/d/1nG7w75a__K0oBkolESkWKzUQfVVA8CZXdx1_IVBAnt8/pub?w=426&h=320"></html>

[https://docs.google.com/drawings/d/1nG7w75a__K0oBkolESkWKzUQfVVA8CZXdx1_IVBAnt8/edit edit]

This system is operational and provides OSE with a good basis to design more advance networking solutions. The Linksys WR54GL is extremely versatile with Tomato installed, but is limited to the 802.11b/g protocols. This means the point-to-point connections will be limited to 54 Mbps; sufficient for now (the dsl connection only gets speeds of 4.0 Mbps), but it will turn into a bottle-neck as the network continues to scale up.

'''The Next Steps'''

Based on these results, it seems it would be relatively easy to connect many sites around Factor e Farm using a similar combination of point-to-point and localized WiFi networks. It should also be possible to build a mesh network using Tomato-enabled Linksys routers, [http://www.dslreports.com/forum/r22572390-Tomato-Building-a-Wireless-Mesh-Network-Routers-wired something like what is described here]

=HabLab Line=
*4MB working internet, 3/11/14

=Communications=
Ben to Marcin -

I have attached all of the configuration materials for the routers at Factor e Farm, and I've updated the wiki page for OSE Internet with a description of what I did on Thursday. I think this should be enough information for you to get access to everything and make any changes that are needed. I also wanted to let you know I took down some of the pictures. I'm not entirely sure if sharing MAC addresses can be a security risk or not, so I figured it would be safer to remove them.

One thing that I didn't have time for was to password protect the two WiFi networks, and like I said this can be a significant privacy issue. I recommend you set up WPA2 Personal security on both the HabLab and OSEone networks.

HabLab

*If you are connected to the HabLab network you should be able to access everything through wifi, otherwise you can just connect to a device using an ethernet cable. The security for this network needs to be set through the Linksys Router (the admin details are in the txt attachement).
*Connect to the router through it's IP address.
*Click 'Basic' on the left sidebar
*Scroll down to the wireless section.
*Choose the drop down menu labeled security.
*Select WAP2 Personal/Enterprise
*Enter the desired password.
*The network might work fine after this point, but you might need to reconfigure the TP-Link to connect again. This can be done by just running through the initial set up on the device and telling it to work as a repeater for the HabLab network.

OSEOne

You can set the password for this network through the Century Link router in the HabLab. The login details for this are on the bottom of the router.

I wish I had more time to spend on the network while I was there, but regardless, doing this has given me a lot of ideas for things I could be set up to improve the network around the farm. With all of the construction you guys are looking to do this year, it would probably be beneficial to get internet services to each area. What I set up last Thursday could form the groundwork for a mesh network at Factor e Farm to connect everything.

I think I am going to spend some time in the coming weeks looking into what it would take to scale up something like what I did for the MicroHouse. It looks possible to create a network that would connect the HabLab, the two workshops, campsite, and any Microhouses or other structures together.

=Equipment Links=
*zBoost cell phone booster - [http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003VOW5WI/ref=pe_385040_30332200_pe_309540_26725410_item]
*TP Link Access Point - [http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002YETVXC/ref=pe_385040_30332200_pe_309540_26725410_item] - 3*5dBi Detachable Omni Directional (RP-SMA) - [http://www.tp-link.com/resources/document/TL-WA901ND_V3_Datasheet.pdf]
*Directional Antenna - [http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CJ1IARI/ref=pe_385040_30332190_TE_3p_M3T1_ST1_dp_1] - RP-SMA Connection to Router/Access Point)

=Links=
*Support/tech phone for Centurytel - [[Internet, Phone, Domains, Server]]
*Network Setup - [https://docs.google.com/a/opensourceecology.org/document/d/1HTkBVB8_WUvuUnHUH0zK313SqV2wcr6_fe17Z7qzT40/edit]
*[[OSE_Network_Plan_2014]]

OSE Internet

2014-08-29T14:30:49Z

Greg Buckland: /* Internet and Phone */

=Domains and Server=

*Pingdom monitors wiki URL, sending notifications to webadmin@opensourceecology.org and ops@opensourceecology.org. Uptime Robot monitors wiki and forum URLs, sending notifications to webadmin@opensourceecology.org. Hetzner is OSE’s server, Client ID: C0704628411, Support number: +49 (0) 9831 61006-1. Report to issues to Executive Staff.

*Hetzner is OSE’s server, see hard-copy information in HabLab office.

/are any of these working? i tried them all this past week at diff hours in the day without any response :(

=Internet and Phone=
*Lines - (816) 449-1226,for microhouse, (816) 449-1224 for HabLab, and (816) 449-2045 for huts/workshop
'''*For all issues call CenturyLink help''' - 800.809.1410, Press 2 for existing customers, Press 5 for repair and tech support
#*official speed test - http://lasvegas.speedtest.centurylink.net/
#*Independent HTML5-based speed test - http://speedof.me/
*Customer care, such as extra lines - 800.788.3500
*Tony F - internet line technician - 816.244.7803
The account number is our telephone number: 8164491224, and second one, 816.2045

=Log=

==Thu Feb 13, 2014==
Call to Century Link on January 8, 2014 at 877.744.4416. Spoke with Leslie. Discussed various options and decided to go on "inactive" status at $51/month plus tax. Allowed to remain on that status for 9 months. -- To reactivate it would take about 3 days. Call 866-614-5166 to reactivate, cancel, or change service. Service changed to a $116 plan per month with a $10 discount for 10 months, so about $106 for the next 12 months. The internet only line needs to be renegotiated in 1 year of time to retain $35/month fee. Need to consider satellite line for more internet.

== Information==

As of February, 2014:

*Voice - 8164491224

==Information and Action on Sep 23, 2013==
*Phone and Internet down, CenturyLink sending technician by 11AM CST Sep 24 (Tuesday)
**Road construction on SW Willow is possibly the cause

==Information and Action on Sep 16, 2013==
*Called support: 1-800-786-6272 and spoke to Reggie; determined the OSEtwo DSL line is 8164492307; this line is not appearing remotely so they require someone to hard-wire in to the modem. to change the password. Since there is no phone down there...I would have to run back and forth to get troubleshooting step instructions. This is not a viable option. 1) We need a phone down there. 2) We should migrate the line from the mosquito hut to the workshop so the workshop has connectivity throughout and install a phone on the line.
Over to Katie.

==Information and Action on Sep 13, 2013==
*Internet lines changed to OSEone and OSEtwo - No reason for change other than called Centurylink to troubleshoot connectiviey problems and the representative made the changes without prompting.
**Password for both lines is maysville2013
*Still have the HabLab line, which the representative said he changed to OSEone

==Information and Action on Aug 22, 2013==
*CenturyLink tech installed new wireless modem

==Information and Action on Aug 21, 2013==
*Spoke with CenturyLink support:
**Learned that one of OSE internet lines has been ''on vacation'' since Feb 2013. This was not communicated during previous calls to CenturyLink on July 12, 2013. To compensate, CenturyLink is providing internet service for 1 year at a discount rate. The rate expires and increases on August 22, 2014; order number associated: 1182581932
*During technical assistance call:
**Troubleshoot DSL/phone line filter. Filter is not the problem.
**CenturyLink verified the problem is not a programing issue.
**Intermittent sync - speed issue on customer end, so tech will verify surfing speed with customer on location - no later than 340PM CST, ticket number 6152743

=Internet Line 1 - Cordwood=
*Internet line fixed from 1.5 to 4MB on 4/12/14.
*We got a wireless bridge -

'''The Problem'''

Factor e Farm needs a network solution that allows OSE to connect the various buildings that are currently on site as well as buildings that will be added in the future.

'''Century Link Router'''

The only real purpose of this router is to serve as a modem to the DSL connection from the internet service provider (ISP). This router is operating as the DHCP server for the HabLab network, meaning that it is providing IP addresses for any wireless repeaters or access points that are added to the network (including the TP-Link WiFi router I set up on 3/13/14). This router is not broadcasting a WiFi network.

'''Linksys WRT54GL'''

This piece of hardware is running Tomato as its operating system, an open source router administration program. It is located in the shelves and connected by eth0 to the CenturyLink pk5001a modem in the mud hut. It is set up to operate as an access point for the HabLab network. The SSID is 'wireless.'

'''Testing'''

I managed to successfully connect to the Internet through the TP-Link router using this system. Testing in the Microhouse was a minor success as the internet connection worked, but was exceedingly slow. I decided this was most likely due to the TP-Link not having the range to comminicate back to the Linksys switch. I advised Marcin to connect a directional antenna to the TP-Link to solve this problem. I also suspect the signal is being hampered by brush and tree branches; placing it in a high, clear position should improve this.

'''Results'''

<html><img src="https://docs.google.com/drawings/d/1nG7w75a__K0oBkolESkWKzUQfVVA8CZXdx1_IVBAnt8/pub?w=426&h=320"></html>

[https://docs.google.com/drawings/d/1nG7w75a__K0oBkolESkWKzUQfVVA8CZXdx1_IVBAnt8/edit edit]

This system is operational and provides OSE with a good basis to design more advance networking solutions. The Linksys WR54GL is extremely versatile with Tomato installed, but is limited to the 802.11b/g protocols. This means the point-to-point connections will be limited to 54 Mbps; sufficient for now (the dsl connection only gets speeds of 4.0 Mbps), but it will turn into a bottle-neck as the network continues to scale up.

'''The Next Steps'''

Based on these results, it seems it would be relatively easy to connect many sites around Factor e Farm using a similar combination of point-to-point and localized WiFi networks. It should also be possible to build a mesh network using Tomato-enabled Linksys routers, [http://www.dslreports.com/forum/r22572390-Tomato-Building-a-Wireless-Mesh-Network-Routers-wired something like what is described here]

=HabLab Line=
*4MB working internet, 3/11/14

=Communications=
Ben to Marcin -

I have attached all of the configuration materials for the routers at Factor e Farm, and I've updated the wiki page for OSE Internet with a description of what I did on Thursday. I think this should be enough information for you to get access to everything and make any changes that are needed. I also wanted to let you know I took down some of the pictures. I'm not entirely sure if sharing MAC addresses can be a security risk or not, so I figured it would be safer to remove them.

One thing that I didn't have time for was to password protect the two WiFi networks, and like I said this can be a significant privacy issue. I recommend you set up WPA2 Personal security on both the HabLab and OSEone networks.

HabLab

*If you are connected to the HabLab network you should be able to access everything through wifi, otherwise you can just connect to a device using an ethernet cable. The security for this network needs to be set through the Linksys Router (the admin details are in the txt attachement).
*Connect to the router through it's IP address.
*Click 'Basic' on the left sidebar
*Scroll down to the wireless section.
*Choose the drop down menu labeled security.
*Select WAP2 Personal/Enterprise
*Enter the desired password.
*The network might work fine after this point, but you might need to reconfigure the TP-Link to connect again. This can be done by just running through the initial set up on the device and telling it to work as a repeater for the HabLab network.

OSEOne

You can set the password for this network through the Century Link router in the HabLab. The login details for this are on the bottom of the router.

I wish I had more time to spend on the network while I was there, but regardless, doing this has given me a lot of ideas for things I could be set up to improve the network around the farm. With all of the construction you guys are looking to do this year, it would probably be beneficial to get internet services to each area. What I set up last Thursday could form the groundwork for a mesh network at Factor e Farm to connect everything.

I think I am going to spend some time in the coming weeks looking into what it would take to scale up something like what I did for the MicroHouse. It looks possible to create a network that would connect the HabLab, the two workshops, campsite, and any Microhouses or other structures together.

=Equipment Links=
*zBoost cell phone booster - [http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003VOW5WI/ref=pe_385040_30332200_pe_309540_26725410_item]
*TP Link Access Point - [http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002YETVXC/ref=pe_385040_30332200_pe_309540_26725410_item] - 3*5dBi Detachable Omni Directional (RP-SMA) - [http://www.tp-link.com/resources/document/TL-WA901ND_V3_Datasheet.pdf]
*Directional Antenna - [http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CJ1IARI/ref=pe_385040_30332190_TE_3p_M3T1_ST1_dp_1] - RP-SMA Connection to Router/Access Point)

=Links=
*Support/tech phone for Centurytel - [[Internet, Phone, Domains, Server]]
*Network Setup - [https://docs.google.com/a/opensourceecology.org/document/d/1HTkBVB8_WUvuUnHUH0zK313SqV2wcr6_fe17Z7qzT40/edit]
*[[OSE_Network_Plan_2014]]

Greg Log

2014-08-29T04:57:24Z

Greg Buckland: /* 2014 August 4 Monday */

Work log for [[User:Greg Buckland]] who spent 9 weeks here in Summer 2014. See [[Greg Buckland Dedicated Project Visit Application]] for more info about him.

=2014 August 28 Thursday=
*Updated [[Composting Toilet]] wiki and documentation
*Vacuumed HabLab common areas
*Cleaned solar cabin (right hand side) for Hilary's visit tomorrow
*Repaired bedframe in solar cabin (tack welded broken leg back on)
*Began reading through [[Lasersaur]] documentation / manual
*Continued improving/filling in this worklog

=2014 August 27 Wednesday=
*Moved microhouse lumber from south of new workshop to protected shelter east of old workshop
*Installed lock hardware and vent pipe cap on Composting Toilet
*worked on exploded parts diagram for Structural Powercube [[File:PCSF_vert.skp]]
[[File:draft_PC_expl.png|300px]]
*Began updating this worklog!!
'''IS THIS EXPLODED VERSION UPLOADED?''' - yes: [[File:PCSF_vert.skp]]

=2014 August 26 Tuesday=
*built shelves for my bedroom out of scrap materials
*swarmed on workshop cleanup (moved Microhouse 3 modules into old workshop, moved lumber out of the way, etc.)
*updated Composting Toilet CAD file
*led evening walkthrough/tutorial on Sketchup (walked through CAD drawing of barrel bolt latch design for toilet on the big screen)
[[File:barrel_bolt.png|300px]]
[[File:Barrel Bolt Lock.skp]]

=2014 August 25 Monday=
*completed fabrication of latch hardware for composting toilet
*worked on fabricating earth anchors to stake down the composting toilet (against possible wind intrusion)
*cleaned and dried tents left out in the rain & mud after microhouse workshop

=2014 August 23 Saturday=
*Deep cleaned Hablab kitchen, including dealing with [https://www.facebook.com/groups/1502145196684445/permalink/1519479808284317/ fermented watermelon]
*Swept & vacuumed Hablab living room and Pink room

=2014 August 22 Friday=
*Finished and installed doors, hinges, and door handles on composting toilet
{| class="wikitable"
|-
|[[File:outhouse_complete_small.jpg|190px]]
|[[File:showing_off_toilet_small.jpg|345px]]
|[[File:Composting_Toilet_Sketchup.png|300px]]
|}
*Cleaned up remaining tools and scrap materials at composting toilet site
*Began fabrication/design for barrel bolt latches for doors
*Finished fabricating vent pipe cap

=2014 August 21 Thursday=
*Collected materials on hand for designing and building doors for composting toilet (used scrap 1x lumber and unused 3/4" carsiding)
*Began layout and construction of doors

=2014 August 20 Wednesday=
*Installed handrails on composting toilet
*Patched a few stray roof holes
*Began fabrication of vent pipe cap

=2014 August 19 Tuesday=
*Assisted with Microhouse 3 documentation
*Installed stair stringers and treads.
*Installed vent pipe. 3.5" hole saw from Sutherland's broke within first 30 seconds of use (either mandrel or saw threads stripped immediately, allowing saw to spin freely instead of cut, and preventing removal/replacement of saw on mandrel). Worked around by firmly tightening a 5/8" nut on mandrel threads.

=2014 August 18 Monday=
*Worked on Microhouse 3 documentation, including updating Sketchup files
*Designed & laid out stairs for composting toilet. Revised design to accommodate existing mature tree on site (shortened tread length and steepened stair angle to ~42°)
{| class="wikitable"
|-
|[[File:stair_layout.png|350px]]
|[[File:toilet_stair_sideview.png|300px]]
|}
*Cut stringers for toilet stairs

=2014 August 16 Saturday=
*Purchased materials for composting toilet at Sutherland's: 3.5" hole saw and pipe boot for vent pipe, treated 2x12's for stair stringers

=2014 August 7 thru 12=
*Completed midnight construction of Composting Toilet (installing a step-ladder and curtains instead of permanent stairs and doors)
{| class="wikitable"
|-
|[[File:midnight_toilet1.jpg|250px]]
|[[File:midnight_toilet2.jpg|250px]]
|[[File:midnight_toilet3.jpg|250px]]
|}
*Microshouse 3 workshop
*Supervised workshop during construction of carpentry modules
*Assisted with CAD questions and Dozuki documentation
*Laid bricks and installed window modules at site

=2014 August 7 Thursday=
*Built walls and rafters for [[Composting Toilet]]
*Assembled in workshop with clamps
*Built stand for TV out of scraps from the formwork, setup TV and presentation equipment under geodesic dome in front of HabLab for workshop presentation.
[[File:TV_stand.jpg|200px]]

=2014 August 6 Wednesday=
*Finalized Sketchup design for walls of [[Composting Toilet]] [[File:Composting_Toilet.skp]]
*Built walls and rafters for [[Composting Toilet]] and clamped together for dry fit in workshop
{| class="wikitable"
|-
|[[File:workshop_toilet1.jpg|250px]]
|[[File:workshop_toilet2.jpg|250px]]
|[[File:workshop_toilet3.jpg|250px]]
|}

=2014 August 5 Tuesday=
*Worked on brick pressing crew 7am to 5pm
*Built 2 modules with Curtis (door and window) 10am-3am

=2014 August 4 Monday=
*Worked on brick pressing crew
*Visited site and began site prep for [[Composting Toilet]]
*Began sketchup work for [[Composting Toilet]]
*Worked with Stephen to remove concrete formwork from Microhouse foundation.

=2014 August 1 Friday=
*Completed formwork and assisted with concrete pouring
*Assisted with formwork and concrete pour in front of HabLab

=2014 July 28 Monday=
*Continued carpentry for formwork with Arif. Completed 2x4 frames

=2014 July 25 Friday=
*Continued carpentry for formwork with Victor. Began assembly of 2x4 frames

=2014 July 24 Thursday=
*Started carpentry for formwork: worked with Victor to setup the space, bring materials, get power to the site, and begin planning.

=2014 July 23 Wednesday=
*Returned to Factor-e Farm
*Drove Catarina to St. Joe on a hunt for a new laptop.

=2014 June 16 Monday thru June 20 Friday=
*Wisconsin for CEB Press Workshop, and Midwest Renewable Energy Fair. Returned to Boston June 20.

=2014 June 13 Friday=
*Continued work on 3D printers, CEB Press documentation, prep work for Wisconsin CEB Press workshop.

=2014 June 12 Thursday=
*Worked on master SKP file for CEB Press - working with layers, transparencies, etc. for creating functional schematic
*made 2 simple flat boxes with honeycomb - 1 stop ⅔ through, the other let it complete
*changed nozzle size setting in Slic3r to 0.5mm (and also increased layer hight to 0.5mm) - seems to work better! Seems that AO-100 has 0.5mm nozzle after all.
*worked on making fresher STL file for clampshells from SKP
*attempted ¼ size print - failed catastrophically - drifted in Y-axis, etc. Diagnosis: Z-stop too low, so Z-home presses nozzle too tightly agains the bed. Raised z-stop, and print was much better!

=2014 June 11 Wednesday=
*Presented 3D printing progress, challenges, learnings, including examination of 1st attempt at printing clampshell
*Reviewed [https://docs.google.com/presentation/d/11ZlpOzMNlIssL34HmSo-Q4j0asGqrDSd10Xue7zYJZQ/edit#slide=id.g351b52891_0280 CEB Press Drawer Module assembly instructions] in morning meeting
*Researched converting STEP files to SKP, and added to [[STEP to Sketchup]] wiki page
*Pulled clampshell file from CEB .SKP file, scaled to 1/4 size and exported to STL. Converted to .gcode using Slic3r at 0.75 infill. Print started OK, but about 20% of the way through, it was thrown off of the Y-axis by about 0.5" (20% of the 2.5" length). My working hypothesis is that working in other programs on my computer during the printing caused a serial error. To remedy this (and sleep/screensaver interruptions) I'm going to look into printing from Micro SD Card.
*Very good Micro SD Card printing instructions at the [http://www.lulzbot.com/support/3d-printing-microsd-card LulzBot site]. Successfully test printed bed level check from Micro SD Card.
*Also troubleshot blobby / pad printing on initial error. It was due to too much pressure between printhead and bed - see pictures below. I fixed it by raising the Z-endstop limit screw (see picture) and re-leveling print bed.
*Experimented with layer depth & infill. Found that 0.35 mm layer depth (equal to the nozzle size) works much better than the previous setting (which was 0.2 mm). Also honeycomb infill with a density of 0.3 works quite well for sturdy, relatively quick prints
*Began overnight print of full-size Female Clampshell with 0.3 density honeycomb infill. Fingers crossed!

=2014 June 10 Tuesday=
*Presented 3D printing results at morning meeting
*Began work on CEB Press .SKP
*Worked on Presentation on 3D Printing - [https://docs.google.com/a/opensourceecology.org/presentation/d/1csmBrlVIua4N-r2lH0gmbRBTo3uhPyPOd_EgnBuMY4A/edit#slide=id.g34eeff40f_020]
*Started rudimentary first print of [[File:01-222-00-2.STL]] for overnight printing

=2014 June 9 Monday=
*First day of work. Attended orientation, began worklog, hit the ground running.
*Worked on CEB Press [https://docs.google.com/presentation/d/11ZlpOzMNlIssL34HmSo-Q4j0asGqrDSd10Xue7zYJZQ/edit#slide=id.g34b07977b_617 Drawer Module documentation]
*Oriented self to basic CEB Press operation, brick compression process
*Swarmed on getting 3D printers up and running - worked on HYDRA Lulzbot. Got it connected to computer, leveled printbed pretty well. Ran into troubles with .gcode files - printer randomly stops prematurely, causing print to fail. Looks like Colten had similar troubles: [[Colten Jackson Log]]
*Successfully printed an Octopus on the TAZ out of pink PLA plastic:
[[File:3D print PLA Octopus.jpg|400px]]

=2014 June 8 Sunday=
Arrived at Factor-e Farm. Got settled in, setup living situation, met team.

Greg Log

2014-08-29T04:55:48Z

Greg Buckland: /* 2014 August 7 thru 12 */

Work log for [[User:Greg Buckland]] who spent 9 weeks here in Summer 2014. See [[Greg Buckland Dedicated Project Visit Application]] for more info about him.

=2014 August 28 Thursday=
*Updated [[Composting Toilet]] wiki and documentation
*Vacuumed HabLab common areas
*Cleaned solar cabin (right hand side) for Hilary's visit tomorrow
*Repaired bedframe in solar cabin (tack welded broken leg back on)
*Began reading through [[Lasersaur]] documentation / manual
*Continued improving/filling in this worklog

=2014 August 27 Wednesday=
*Moved microhouse lumber from south of new workshop to protected shelter east of old workshop
*Installed lock hardware and vent pipe cap on Composting Toilet
*worked on exploded parts diagram for Structural Powercube [[File:PCSF_vert.skp]]
[[File:draft_PC_expl.png|300px]]
*Began updating this worklog!!
'''IS THIS EXPLODED VERSION UPLOADED?''' - yes: [[File:PCSF_vert.skp]]

=2014 August 26 Tuesday=
*built shelves for my bedroom out of scrap materials
*swarmed on workshop cleanup (moved Microhouse 3 modules into old workshop, moved lumber out of the way, etc.)
*updated Composting Toilet CAD file
*led evening walkthrough/tutorial on Sketchup (walked through CAD drawing of barrel bolt latch design for toilet on the big screen)
[[File:barrel_bolt.png|300px]]
[[File:Barrel Bolt Lock.skp]]

=2014 August 25 Monday=
*completed fabrication of latch hardware for composting toilet
*worked on fabricating earth anchors to stake down the composting toilet (against possible wind intrusion)
*cleaned and dried tents left out in the rain & mud after microhouse workshop

=2014 August 23 Saturday=
*Deep cleaned Hablab kitchen, including dealing with [https://www.facebook.com/groups/1502145196684445/permalink/1519479808284317/ fermented watermelon]
*Swept & vacuumed Hablab living room and Pink room

=2014 August 22 Friday=
*Finished and installed doors, hinges, and door handles on composting toilet
{| class="wikitable"
|-
|[[File:outhouse_complete_small.jpg|190px]]
|[[File:showing_off_toilet_small.jpg|345px]]
|[[File:Composting_Toilet_Sketchup.png|300px]]
|}
*Cleaned up remaining tools and scrap materials at composting toilet site
*Began fabrication/design for barrel bolt latches for doors
*Finished fabricating vent pipe cap

=2014 August 21 Thursday=
*Collected materials on hand for designing and building doors for composting toilet (used scrap 1x lumber and unused 3/4" carsiding)
*Began layout and construction of doors

=2014 August 20 Wednesday=
*Installed handrails on composting toilet
*Patched a few stray roof holes
*Began fabrication of vent pipe cap

=2014 August 19 Tuesday=
*Assisted with Microhouse 3 documentation
*Installed stair stringers and treads.
*Installed vent pipe. 3.5" hole saw from Sutherland's broke within first 30 seconds of use (either mandrel or saw threads stripped immediately, allowing saw to spin freely instead of cut, and preventing removal/replacement of saw on mandrel). Worked around by firmly tightening a 5/8" nut on mandrel threads.

=2014 August 18 Monday=
*Worked on Microhouse 3 documentation, including updating Sketchup files
*Designed & laid out stairs for composting toilet. Revised design to accommodate existing mature tree on site (shortened tread length and steepened stair angle to ~42°)
{| class="wikitable"
|-
|[[File:stair_layout.png|350px]]
|[[File:toilet_stair_sideview.png|300px]]
|}
*Cut stringers for toilet stairs

=2014 August 16 Saturday=
*Purchased materials for composting toilet at Sutherland's: 3.5" hole saw and pipe boot for vent pipe, treated 2x12's for stair stringers

=2014 August 7 thru 12=
*Completed midnight construction of Composting Toilet (installing a step-ladder and curtains instead of permanent stairs and doors)
{| class="wikitable"
|-
|[[File:midnight_toilet1.jpg|250px]]
|[[File:midnight_toilet2.jpg|250px]]
|[[File:midnight_toilet3.jpg|250px]]
|}
*Microshouse 3 workshop
*Supervised workshop during construction of carpentry modules
*Assisted with CAD questions and Dozuki documentation
*Laid bricks and installed window modules at site

=2014 August 7 Thursday=
*Built walls and rafters for [[Composting Toilet]]
*Assembled in workshop with clamps
*Built stand for TV out of scraps from the formwork, setup TV and presentation equipment under geodesic dome in front of HabLab for workshop presentation.
[[File:TV_stand.jpg|200px]]

=2014 August 6 Wednesday=
*Finalized Sketchup design for walls of [[Composting Toilet]] [[File:Composting_Toilet.skp]]
*Built walls and rafters for [[Composting Toilet]] and clamped together for dry fit in workshop
{| class="wikitable"
|-
|[[File:workshop_toilet1.jpg|250px]]
|[[File:workshop_toilet2.jpg|250px]]
|[[File:workshop_toilet3.jpg|250px]]
|}

=2014 August 5 Tuesday=
*Worked on brick pressing crew 7am to 5pm
*Built 2 modules with Curtis (door and window) 10am-3am

=2014 August 4 Monday=
*Worked on brick pressing crew
*Visited site and began site prep for [[Composting Toilet]]
*Began sketchup work for [[Composting Toilet]]

=2014 August 1 Friday=
*Completed formwork and assisted with concrete pouring
*Assisted with formwork and concrete pour in front of HabLab

=2014 July 28 Monday=
*Continued carpentry for formwork with Arif. Completed 2x4 frames

=2014 July 25 Friday=
*Continued carpentry for formwork with Victor. Began assembly of 2x4 frames

=2014 July 24 Thursday=
*Started carpentry for formwork: worked with Victor to setup the space, bring materials, get power to the site, and begin planning.

=2014 July 23 Wednesday=
*Returned to Factor-e Farm
*Drove Catarina to St. Joe on a hunt for a new laptop.

=2014 June 16 Monday thru June 20 Friday=
*Wisconsin for CEB Press Workshop, and Midwest Renewable Energy Fair. Returned to Boston June 20.

=2014 June 13 Friday=
*Continued work on 3D printers, CEB Press documentation, prep work for Wisconsin CEB Press workshop.

=2014 June 12 Thursday=
*Worked on master SKP file for CEB Press - working with layers, transparencies, etc. for creating functional schematic
*made 2 simple flat boxes with honeycomb - 1 stop ⅔ through, the other let it complete
*changed nozzle size setting in Slic3r to 0.5mm (and also increased layer hight to 0.5mm) - seems to work better! Seems that AO-100 has 0.5mm nozzle after all.
*worked on making fresher STL file for clampshells from SKP
*attempted ¼ size print - failed catastrophically - drifted in Y-axis, etc. Diagnosis: Z-stop too low, so Z-home presses nozzle too tightly agains the bed. Raised z-stop, and print was much better!

=2014 June 11 Wednesday=
*Presented 3D printing progress, challenges, learnings, including examination of 1st attempt at printing clampshell
*Reviewed [https://docs.google.com/presentation/d/11ZlpOzMNlIssL34HmSo-Q4j0asGqrDSd10Xue7zYJZQ/edit#slide=id.g351b52891_0280 CEB Press Drawer Module assembly instructions] in morning meeting
*Researched converting STEP files to SKP, and added to [[STEP to Sketchup]] wiki page
*Pulled clampshell file from CEB .SKP file, scaled to 1/4 size and exported to STL. Converted to .gcode using Slic3r at 0.75 infill. Print started OK, but about 20% of the way through, it was thrown off of the Y-axis by about 0.5" (20% of the 2.5" length). My working hypothesis is that working in other programs on my computer during the printing caused a serial error. To remedy this (and sleep/screensaver interruptions) I'm going to look into printing from Micro SD Card.
*Very good Micro SD Card printing instructions at the [http://www.lulzbot.com/support/3d-printing-microsd-card LulzBot site]. Successfully test printed bed level check from Micro SD Card.
*Also troubleshot blobby / pad printing on initial error. It was due to too much pressure between printhead and bed - see pictures below. I fixed it by raising the Z-endstop limit screw (see picture) and re-leveling print bed.
*Experimented with layer depth & infill. Found that 0.35 mm layer depth (equal to the nozzle size) works much better than the previous setting (which was 0.2 mm). Also honeycomb infill with a density of 0.3 works quite well for sturdy, relatively quick prints
*Began overnight print of full-size Female Clampshell with 0.3 density honeycomb infill. Fingers crossed!

=2014 June 10 Tuesday=
*Presented 3D printing results at morning meeting
*Began work on CEB Press .SKP
*Worked on Presentation on 3D Printing - [https://docs.google.com/a/opensourceecology.org/presentation/d/1csmBrlVIua4N-r2lH0gmbRBTo3uhPyPOd_EgnBuMY4A/edit#slide=id.g34eeff40f_020]
*Started rudimentary first print of [[File:01-222-00-2.STL]] for overnight printing

=2014 June 9 Monday=
*First day of work. Attended orientation, began worklog, hit the ground running.
*Worked on CEB Press [https://docs.google.com/presentation/d/11ZlpOzMNlIssL34HmSo-Q4j0asGqrDSd10Xue7zYJZQ/edit#slide=id.g34b07977b_617 Drawer Module documentation]
*Oriented self to basic CEB Press operation, brick compression process
*Swarmed on getting 3D printers up and running - worked on HYDRA Lulzbot. Got it connected to computer, leveled printbed pretty well. Ran into troubles with .gcode files - printer randomly stops prematurely, causing print to fail. Looks like Colten had similar troubles: [[Colten Jackson Log]]
*Successfully printed an Octopus on the TAZ out of pink PLA plastic:
[[File:3D print PLA Octopus.jpg|400px]]

=2014 June 8 Sunday=
Arrived at Factor-e Farm. Got settled in, setup living situation, met team.

Greg Log

2014-08-29T04:55:20Z

Greg Buckland:

Work log for [[User:Greg Buckland]] who spent 9 weeks here in Summer 2014. See [[Greg Buckland Dedicated Project Visit Application]] for more info about him.

=2014 August 28 Thursday=
*Updated [[Composting Toilet]] wiki and documentation
*Vacuumed HabLab common areas
*Cleaned solar cabin (right hand side) for Hilary's visit tomorrow
*Repaired bedframe in solar cabin (tack welded broken leg back on)
*Began reading through [[Lasersaur]] documentation / manual
*Continued improving/filling in this worklog

=2014 August 27 Wednesday=
*Moved microhouse lumber from south of new workshop to protected shelter east of old workshop
*Installed lock hardware and vent pipe cap on Composting Toilet
*worked on exploded parts diagram for Structural Powercube [[File:PCSF_vert.skp]]
[[File:draft_PC_expl.png|300px]]
*Began updating this worklog!!
'''IS THIS EXPLODED VERSION UPLOADED?''' - yes: [[File:PCSF_vert.skp]]

=2014 August 26 Tuesday=
*built shelves for my bedroom out of scrap materials
*swarmed on workshop cleanup (moved Microhouse 3 modules into old workshop, moved lumber out of the way, etc.)
*updated Composting Toilet CAD file
*led evening walkthrough/tutorial on Sketchup (walked through CAD drawing of barrel bolt latch design for toilet on the big screen)
[[File:barrel_bolt.png|300px]]
[[File:Barrel Bolt Lock.skp]]

=2014 August 25 Monday=
*completed fabrication of latch hardware for composting toilet
*worked on fabricating earth anchors to stake down the composting toilet (against possible wind intrusion)
*cleaned and dried tents left out in the rain & mud after microhouse workshop

=2014 August 23 Saturday=
*Deep cleaned Hablab kitchen, including dealing with [https://www.facebook.com/groups/1502145196684445/permalink/1519479808284317/ fermented watermelon]
*Swept & vacuumed Hablab living room and Pink room

=2014 August 22 Friday=
*Finished and installed doors, hinges, and door handles on composting toilet
{| class="wikitable"
|-
|[[File:outhouse_complete_small.jpg|190px]]
|[[File:showing_off_toilet_small.jpg|345px]]
|[[File:Composting_Toilet_Sketchup.png|300px]]
|}
*Cleaned up remaining tools and scrap materials at composting toilet site
*Began fabrication/design for barrel bolt latches for doors
*Finished fabricating vent pipe cap

=2014 August 21 Thursday=
*Collected materials on hand for designing and building doors for composting toilet (used scrap 1x lumber and unused 3/4" carsiding)
*Began layout and construction of doors

=2014 August 20 Wednesday=
*Installed handrails on composting toilet
*Patched a few stray roof holes
*Began fabrication of vent pipe cap

=2014 August 19 Tuesday=
*Assisted with Microhouse 3 documentation
*Installed stair stringers and treads.
*Installed vent pipe. 3.5" hole saw from Sutherland's broke within first 30 seconds of use (either mandrel or saw threads stripped immediately, allowing saw to spin freely instead of cut, and preventing removal/replacement of saw on mandrel). Worked around by firmly tightening a 5/8" nut on mandrel threads.

=2014 August 18 Monday=
*Worked on Microhouse 3 documentation, including updating Sketchup files
*Designed & laid out stairs for composting toilet. Revised design to accommodate existing mature tree on site (shortened tread length and steepened stair angle to ~42°)
{| class="wikitable"
|-
|[[File:stair_layout.png|350px]]
|[[File:toilet_stair_sideview.png|300px]]
|}
*Cut stringers for toilet stairs

=2014 August 16 Saturday=
*Purchased materials for composting toilet at Sutherland's: 3.5" hole saw and pipe boot for vent pipe, treated 2x12's for stair stringers

=2014 August 7 thru 12=
*Completed midnight construction of Composting Toilet (installing a step-ladder and curtains instead of permanent stairs and doors)
{| class="wikitable"
|-
|[[File:midnight_toilet1.jpg|250px]]
|[[File:midnight_toilet2.jpg|250px]]
|[[File:midnight_toilet3.jpg|250px]]
|}
*Microshouse 3 workshop
*Supervised workshop during construction of carpentry modules
*Assisted with CAD questions and Dozuki documentation
*Laid bricks and installed window modules at site

=2014 August 7 Thursday
*Built walls and rafters for [[Composting Toilet]]
*Assembled in workshop with clamps
*Built stand for TV out of scraps from the formwork, setup TV and presentation equipment under geodesic dome in front of HabLab for workshop presentation.
[[File:TV_stand.jpg|200px]]

=2014 August 6 Wednesday=
*Finalized Sketchup design for walls of [[Composting Toilet]] [[File:Composting_Toilet.skp]]
*Built walls and rafters for [[Composting Toilet]] and clamped together for dry fit in workshop
{| class="wikitable"
|-
|[[File:workshop_toilet1.jpg|250px]]
|[[File:workshop_toilet2.jpg|250px]]
|[[File:workshop_toilet3.jpg|250px]]
|}

=2014 August 5 Tuesday=
*Worked on brick pressing crew 7am to 5pm
*Built 2 modules with Curtis (door and window) 10am-3am

=2014 August 4 Monday=
*Worked on brick pressing crew
*Visited site and began site prep for [[Composting Toilet]]
*Began sketchup work for [[Composting Toilet]]

=2014 August 1 Friday=
*Completed formwork and assisted with concrete pouring
*Assisted with formwork and concrete pour in front of HabLab

=2014 July 28 Monday=
*Continued carpentry for formwork with Arif. Completed 2x4 frames

=2014 July 25 Friday=
*Continued carpentry for formwork with Victor. Began assembly of 2x4 frames

=2014 July 24 Thursday=
*Started carpentry for formwork: worked with Victor to setup the space, bring materials, get power to the site, and begin planning.

=2014 July 23 Wednesday=
*Returned to Factor-e Farm
*Drove Catarina to St. Joe on a hunt for a new laptop.

=2014 June 16 Monday thru June 20 Friday=
*Wisconsin for CEB Press Workshop, and Midwest Renewable Energy Fair. Returned to Boston June 20.

=2014 June 13 Friday=
*Continued work on 3D printers, CEB Press documentation, prep work for Wisconsin CEB Press workshop.

=2014 June 12 Thursday=
*Worked on master SKP file for CEB Press - working with layers, transparencies, etc. for creating functional schematic
*made 2 simple flat boxes with honeycomb - 1 stop ⅔ through, the other let it complete
*changed nozzle size setting in Slic3r to 0.5mm (and also increased layer hight to 0.5mm) - seems to work better! Seems that AO-100 has 0.5mm nozzle after all.
*worked on making fresher STL file for clampshells from SKP
*attempted ¼ size print - failed catastrophically - drifted in Y-axis, etc. Diagnosis: Z-stop too low, so Z-home presses nozzle too tightly agains the bed. Raised z-stop, and print was much better!

=2014 June 11 Wednesday=
*Presented 3D printing progress, challenges, learnings, including examination of 1st attempt at printing clampshell
*Reviewed [https://docs.google.com/presentation/d/11ZlpOzMNlIssL34HmSo-Q4j0asGqrDSd10Xue7zYJZQ/edit#slide=id.g351b52891_0280 CEB Press Drawer Module assembly instructions] in morning meeting
*Researched converting STEP files to SKP, and added to [[STEP to Sketchup]] wiki page
*Pulled clampshell file from CEB .SKP file, scaled to 1/4 size and exported to STL. Converted to .gcode using Slic3r at 0.75 infill. Print started OK, but about 20% of the way through, it was thrown off of the Y-axis by about 0.5" (20% of the 2.5" length). My working hypothesis is that working in other programs on my computer during the printing caused a serial error. To remedy this (and sleep/screensaver interruptions) I'm going to look into printing from Micro SD Card.
*Very good Micro SD Card printing instructions at the [http://www.lulzbot.com/support/3d-printing-microsd-card LulzBot site]. Successfully test printed bed level check from Micro SD Card.
*Also troubleshot blobby / pad printing on initial error. It was due to too much pressure between printhead and bed - see pictures below. I fixed it by raising the Z-endstop limit screw (see picture) and re-leveling print bed.
*Experimented with layer depth & infill. Found that 0.35 mm layer depth (equal to the nozzle size) works much better than the previous setting (which was 0.2 mm). Also honeycomb infill with a density of 0.3 works quite well for sturdy, relatively quick prints
*Began overnight print of full-size Female Clampshell with 0.3 density honeycomb infill. Fingers crossed!

=2014 June 10 Tuesday=
*Presented 3D printing results at morning meeting
*Began work on CEB Press .SKP
*Worked on Presentation on 3D Printing - [https://docs.google.com/a/opensourceecology.org/presentation/d/1csmBrlVIua4N-r2lH0gmbRBTo3uhPyPOd_EgnBuMY4A/edit#slide=id.g34eeff40f_020]
*Started rudimentary first print of [[File:01-222-00-2.STL]] for overnight printing

=2014 June 9 Monday=
*First day of work. Attended orientation, began worklog, hit the ground running.
*Worked on CEB Press [https://docs.google.com/presentation/d/11ZlpOzMNlIssL34HmSo-Q4j0asGqrDSd10Xue7zYJZQ/edit#slide=id.g34b07977b_617 Drawer Module documentation]
*Oriented self to basic CEB Press operation, brick compression process
*Swarmed on getting 3D printers up and running - worked on HYDRA Lulzbot. Got it connected to computer, leveled printbed pretty well. Ran into troubles with .gcode files - printer randomly stops prematurely, causing print to fail. Looks like Colten had similar troubles: [[Colten Jackson Log]]
*Successfully printed an Octopus on the TAZ out of pink PLA plastic:
[[File:3D print PLA Octopus.jpg|400px]]

=2014 June 8 Sunday=
Arrived at Factor-e Farm. Got settled in, setup living situation, met team.

File:TV stand.jpg

2014-08-29T04:54:59Z

Greg Buckland: TV Stand built in 15 minutes by Greg Buckland (pictured), Ben Acohn, and Mathias Haingartner to allow HabLab TV to be taken outside for Microhouse 3.0 workshop presentation.

TV Stand built in 15 minutes by Greg Buckland (pictured), Ben Acohn, and Mathias Haingartner to allow HabLab TV to be taken outside for Microhouse 3.0 workshop presentation.

File:Workshop toilet3.jpg

2014-08-29T04:52:47Z

Greg Buckland: Assembled Composting Toilet wall frames. Clamped together in workshop for dry fit before assembly on site

Assembled Composting Toilet wall frames. Clamped together in workshop for dry fit before assembly on site

File:Workshop toilet2.jpg

2014-08-29T04:51:45Z

Greg Buckland:

File:Workshop toilet1.jpg

2014-08-29T04:51:18Z

Greg Buckland:

Greg Log

2014-08-29T03:09:23Z

Greg Buckland: /* 2014 August 22 Friday */

Work log for [[User:Greg Buckland]] who spent 9 weeks here in Summer 2014. See [[Greg Buckland Dedicated Project Visit Application]] for more info about him.

=2014 August 28 Thursday=
*Updated [[Composting Toilet]] wiki and documentation
*Vacuumed HabLab common areas
*Cleaned solar cabin (right hand side) for Hilary's visit tomorrow
*Repaired bedframe in solar cabin (tack welded broken leg back on)
*Began reading through [[Lasersaur]] documentation / manual
*Continued improving/filling in this worklog

=2014 August 27 Wednesday=
*Moved microhouse lumber from south of new workshop to protected shelter east of old workshop
*Installed lock hardware and vent pipe cap on Composting Toilet
*worked on exploded parts diagram for Structural Powercube [[File:PCSF_vert.skp]]
[[File:draft_PC_expl.png|300px]]
*Began updating this worklog!!
'''IS THIS EXPLODED VERSION UPLOADED?''' - yes: [[File:PCSF_vert.skp]]

=2014 August 26 Tuesday=
*built shelves for my bedroom out of scrap materials
*swarmed on workshop cleanup (moved Microhouse 3 modules into old workshop, moved lumber out of the way, etc.)
*updated Composting Toilet CAD file
*led evening walkthrough/tutorial on Sketchup (walked through CAD drawing of barrel bolt latch design for toilet on the big screen)
[[File:barrel_bolt.png|300px]]
[[File:Barrel Bolt Lock.skp]]

=2014 August 25 Monday=
*completed fabrication of latch hardware for composting toilet
*worked on fabricating earth anchors to stake down the composting toilet (against possible wind intrusion)
*cleaned and dried tents left out in the rain & mud after microhouse workshop

=2014 August 23 Saturday=
*Deep cleaned Hablab kitchen, including dealing with [https://www.facebook.com/groups/1502145196684445/permalink/1519479808284317/ fermented watermelon]
*Swept & vacuumed Hablab living room and Pink room

=2014 August 22 Friday=
*Finished and installed doors, hinges, and door handles on composting toilet
{| class="wikitable"
|-
|[[File:outhouse_complete_small.jpg|190px]]
|[[File:showing_off_toilet_small.jpg|345px]]
|[[File:Composting_Toilet_Sketchup.png|300px]]
|}
*Cleaned up remaining tools and scrap materials at composting toilet site
*Began fabrication/design for barrel bolt latches for doors
*Finished fabricating vent pipe cap

=2014 August 21 Thursday=
*Collected materials on hand for designing and building doors for composting toilet (used scrap 1x lumber and unused 3/4" carsiding)
*Began layout and construction of doors

=2014 August 20 Wednesday=
*Installed handrails on composting toilet
*Patched a few stray roof holes
*Began fabrication of vent pipe cap

=2014 August 19 Tuesday=
*Assisted with Microhouse 3 documentation
*Installed stair stringers and treads.
*Installed vent pipe. 3.5" hole saw from Sutherland's broke within first 30 seconds of use (either mandrel or saw threads stripped immediately, allowing saw to spin freely instead of cut, and preventing removal/replacement of saw on mandrel). Worked around by firmly tightening a 5/8" nut on mandrel threads.

=2014 August 18 Monday=
*Worked on Microhouse 3 documentation, including updating Sketchup files
*Designed & laid out stairs for composting toilet. Revised design to accommodate existing mature tree on site (shortened tread length and steepened stair angle to ~42°)
{| class="wikitable"
|-
|[[File:stair_layout.png|350px]]
|[[File:toilet_stair_sideview.png|300px]]
|}
*Cut stringers for toilet stairs

=2014 August 16 Saturday=
*Purchased materials for composting toilet at Sutherland's: 3.5" hole saw and pipe boot for vent pipe, treated 2x12's for stair stringers

=2014 August 7 thru 12=
*Completed midnight construction of Composting Toilet (installing a step-ladder and curtains instead of permanent stairs and doors)
{| class="wikitable"
|-
|[[File:midnight_toilet1.jpg|250px]]
|[[File:midnight_toilet2.jpg|250px]]
|[[File:midnight_toilet3.jpg|250px]]
|}
*Microshouse 3 workshop
*Supervised workshop during construction of carpentry modules
*Assisted with CAD questions and Dozuki documentation
*Laid bricks and installed window modules at site

=2014 July 28 Monday=
*Continued carpentry for formwork with Arif. Completed 2x4 frames

=2014 July 25 Friday=
*Continued carpentry for formwork with Victor. Began assembly of 2x4 frames

=2014 July 24 Thursday=
*Started carpentry for formwork: worked with Victor to setup the space, bring materials, get power to the site, and begin planning.

=2014 July 23 Wednesday=
*Returned to Factor-e Farm
*Drove Catarina to St. Joe on a hunt for a new laptop.

=2014 June 16 Monday thru June 20 Friday=
*Wisconsin for CEB Press Workshop, and Midwest Renewable Energy Fair. Returned to Boston June 20.

=2014 June 13 Friday=
*Continued work on 3D printers, CEB Press documentation, prep work for Wisconsin CEB Press workshop.

=2014 June 12 Thursday=
*Worked on master SKP file for CEB Press - working with layers, transparencies, etc. for creating functional schematic
*made 2 simple flat boxes with honeycomb - 1 stop ⅔ through, the other let it complete
*changed nozzle size setting in Slic3r to 0.5mm (and also increased layer hight to 0.5mm) - seems to work better! Seems that AO-100 has 0.5mm nozzle after all.
*worked on making fresher STL file for clampshells from SKP
*attempted ¼ size print - failed catastrophically - drifted in Y-axis, etc. Diagnosis: Z-stop too low, so Z-home presses nozzle too tightly agains the bed. Raised z-stop, and print was much better!

=2014 June 11 Wednesday=
*Presented 3D printing progress, challenges, learnings, including examination of 1st attempt at printing clampshell
*Reviewed [https://docs.google.com/presentation/d/11ZlpOzMNlIssL34HmSo-Q4j0asGqrDSd10Xue7zYJZQ/edit#slide=id.g351b52891_0280 CEB Press Drawer Module assembly instructions] in morning meeting
*Researched converting STEP files to SKP, and added to [[STEP to Sketchup]] wiki page
*Pulled clampshell file from CEB .SKP file, scaled to 1/4 size and exported to STL. Converted to .gcode using Slic3r at 0.75 infill. Print started OK, but about 20% of the way through, it was thrown off of the Y-axis by about 0.5" (20% of the 2.5" length). My working hypothesis is that working in other programs on my computer during the printing caused a serial error. To remedy this (and sleep/screensaver interruptions) I'm going to look into printing from Micro SD Card.
*Very good Micro SD Card printing instructions at the [http://www.lulzbot.com/support/3d-printing-microsd-card LulzBot site]. Successfully test printed bed level check from Micro SD Card.
*Also troubleshot blobby / pad printing on initial error. It was due to too much pressure between printhead and bed - see pictures below. I fixed it by raising the Z-endstop limit screw (see picture) and re-leveling print bed.
*Experimented with layer depth & infill. Found that 0.35 mm layer depth (equal to the nozzle size) works much better than the previous setting (which was 0.2 mm). Also honeycomb infill with a density of 0.3 works quite well for sturdy, relatively quick prints
*Began overnight print of full-size Female Clampshell with 0.3 density honeycomb infill. Fingers crossed!

=2014 June 10 Tuesday=
*Presented 3D printing results at morning meeting
*Began work on CEB Press .SKP
*Worked on Presentation on 3D Printing - [https://docs.google.com/a/opensourceecology.org/presentation/d/1csmBrlVIua4N-r2lH0gmbRBTo3uhPyPOd_EgnBuMY4A/edit#slide=id.g34eeff40f_020]
*Started rudimentary first print of [[File:01-222-00-2.STL]] for overnight printing

=2014 June 9 Monday=
*First day of work. Attended orientation, began worklog, hit the ground running.
*Worked on CEB Press [https://docs.google.com/presentation/d/11ZlpOzMNlIssL34HmSo-Q4j0asGqrDSd10Xue7zYJZQ/edit#slide=id.g34b07977b_617 Drawer Module documentation]
*Oriented self to basic CEB Press operation, brick compression process
*Swarmed on getting 3D printers up and running - worked on HYDRA Lulzbot. Got it connected to computer, leveled printbed pretty well. Ran into troubles with .gcode files - printer randomly stops prematurely, causing print to fail. Looks like Colten had similar troubles: [[Colten Jackson Log]]
*Successfully printed an Octopus on the TAZ out of pink PLA plastic:
[[File:3D print PLA Octopus.jpg|400px]]

=2014 June 8 Sunday=
Arrived at Factor-e Farm. Got settled in, setup living situation, met team.

Greg Log

2014-08-29T00:04:02Z

Greg Buckland: /* 2014 August 28 Thursday */

Work log for [[User:Greg Buckland]] who spent 9 weeks here in Summer 2014. See [[Greg Buckland Dedicated Project Visit Application]] for more info about him.

=2014 August 28 Thursday=
*Updated [[Composting Toilet]] wiki and documentation
*Vacuumed HabLab common areas
*Cleaned solar cabin (right hand side) for Hilary's visit tomorrow
*Repaired bedframe in solar cabin (tack welded broken leg back on)
*Began reading through [[Lasersaur]] documentation / manual
*Continued improving/filling in this worklog

=2014 August 27 Wednesday=
*Moved microhouse lumber from south of new workshop to protected shelter east of old workshop
*Installed lock hardware and vent pipe cap on Composting Toilet
*worked on exploded parts diagram for Structural Powercube [[File:PCSF_vert.skp]]
[[File:draft_PC_expl.png|300px]]
*Began updating this worklog!!
'''IS THIS EXPLODED VERSION UPLOADED?''' - yes: [[File:PCSF_vert.skp]]

=2014 August 26 Tuesday=
*built shelves for my bedroom out of scrap materials
*swarmed on workshop cleanup (moved Microhouse 3 modules into old workshop, moved lumber out of the way, etc.)
*updated Composting Toilet CAD file
*led evening walkthrough/tutorial on Sketchup (walked through CAD drawing of barrel bolt latch design for toilet on the big screen)
[[File:barrel_bolt.png|300px]]
[[File:Barrel Bolt Lock.skp]]

=2014 August 25 Monday=
*completed fabrication of latch hardware for composting toilet
*worked on fabricating earth anchors to stake down the composting toilet (against possible wind intrusion)
*cleaned and dried tents left out in the rain & mud after microhouse workshop

=2014 August 23 Saturday=
*Deep cleaned Hablab kitchen, including dealing with [https://www.facebook.com/groups/1502145196684445/permalink/1519479808284317/ fermented watermelon]
*Swept & vacuumed Hablab living room and Pink room

=2014 August 22 Friday=
*Finished and installed doors, hinges, and door handles on composting toilet
{| class="wikitable"
|-
|[[File:outhouse_complete_small.jpg|250px]]
|[[File:showing_off_toilet_small.jpg|450px]]
|[[File:Composting_Toilet_Sketchup.png|400px]]
|}
*Cleaned up remaining tools and scrap materials at composting toilet site
*Began fabrication/design for barrel bolt latches for doors
*Finished fabricating vent pipe cap

=2014 August 21 Thursday=
*Collected materials on hand for designing and building doors for composting toilet (used scrap 1x lumber and unused 3/4" carsiding)
*Began layout and construction of doors

=2014 August 20 Wednesday=
*Installed handrails on composting toilet
*Patched a few stray roof holes
*Began fabrication of vent pipe cap

=2014 August 19 Tuesday=
*Assisted with Microhouse 3 documentation
*Installed stair stringers and treads.
*Installed vent pipe. 3.5" hole saw from Sutherland's broke within first 30 seconds of use (either mandrel or saw threads stripped immediately, allowing saw to spin freely instead of cut, and preventing removal/replacement of saw on mandrel). Worked around by firmly tightening a 5/8" nut on mandrel threads.

=2014 August 18 Monday=
*Worked on Microhouse 3 documentation, including updating Sketchup files
*Designed & laid out stairs for composting toilet. Revised design to accommodate existing mature tree on site (shortened tread length and steepened stair angle to ~42°)
{| class="wikitable"
|-
|[[File:stair_layout.png|350px]]
|[[File:toilet_stair_sideview.png|300px]]
|}
*Cut stringers for toilet stairs

=2014 August 16 Saturday=
*Purchased materials for composting toilet at Sutherland's: 3.5" hole saw and pipe boot for vent pipe, treated 2x12's for stair stringers

=2014 August 7 thru 12=
*Completed midnight construction of Composting Toilet (installing a step-ladder and curtains instead of permanent stairs and doors)
{| class="wikitable"
|-
|[[File:midnight_toilet1.jpg|250px]]
|[[File:midnight_toilet2.jpg|250px]]
|[[File:midnight_toilet3.jpg|250px]]
|}
*Microshouse 3 workshop
*Supervised workshop during construction of carpentry modules
*Assisted with CAD questions and Dozuki documentation
*Laid bricks and installed window modules at site

=2014 July 28 Monday=
*Continued carpentry for formwork with Arif. Completed 2x4 frames

=2014 July 25 Friday=
*Continued carpentry for formwork with Victor. Began assembly of 2x4 frames

=2014 July 24 Thursday=
*Started carpentry for formwork: worked with Victor to setup the space, bring materials, get power to the site, and begin planning.

=2014 July 23 Wednesday=
*Returned to Factor-e Farm
*Drove Catarina to St. Joe on a hunt for a new laptop.

=2014 June 16 Monday thru June 20 Friday=
*Wisconsin for CEB Press Workshop, and Midwest Renewable Energy Fair. Returned to Boston June 20.

=2014 June 13 Friday=
*Continued work on 3D printers, CEB Press documentation, prep work for Wisconsin CEB Press workshop.

=2014 June 12 Thursday=
*Worked on master SKP file for CEB Press - working with layers, transparencies, etc. for creating functional schematic
*made 2 simple flat boxes with honeycomb - 1 stop ⅔ through, the other let it complete
*changed nozzle size setting in Slic3r to 0.5mm (and also increased layer hight to 0.5mm) - seems to work better! Seems that AO-100 has 0.5mm nozzle after all.
*worked on making fresher STL file for clampshells from SKP
*attempted ¼ size print - failed catastrophically - drifted in Y-axis, etc. Diagnosis: Z-stop too low, so Z-home presses nozzle too tightly agains the bed. Raised z-stop, and print was much better!

=2014 June 11 Wednesday=
*Presented 3D printing progress, challenges, learnings, including examination of 1st attempt at printing clampshell
*Reviewed [https://docs.google.com/presentation/d/11ZlpOzMNlIssL34HmSo-Q4j0asGqrDSd10Xue7zYJZQ/edit#slide=id.g351b52891_0280 CEB Press Drawer Module assembly instructions] in morning meeting
*Researched converting STEP files to SKP, and added to [[STEP to Sketchup]] wiki page
*Pulled clampshell file from CEB .SKP file, scaled to 1/4 size and exported to STL. Converted to .gcode using Slic3r at 0.75 infill. Print started OK, but about 20% of the way through, it was thrown off of the Y-axis by about 0.5" (20% of the 2.5" length). My working hypothesis is that working in other programs on my computer during the printing caused a serial error. To remedy this (and sleep/screensaver interruptions) I'm going to look into printing from Micro SD Card.
*Very good Micro SD Card printing instructions at the [http://www.lulzbot.com/support/3d-printing-microsd-card LulzBot site]. Successfully test printed bed level check from Micro SD Card.
*Also troubleshot blobby / pad printing on initial error. It was due to too much pressure between printhead and bed - see pictures below. I fixed it by raising the Z-endstop limit screw (see picture) and re-leveling print bed.
*Experimented with layer depth & infill. Found that 0.35 mm layer depth (equal to the nozzle size) works much better than the previous setting (which was 0.2 mm). Also honeycomb infill with a density of 0.3 works quite well for sturdy, relatively quick prints
*Began overnight print of full-size Female Clampshell with 0.3 density honeycomb infill. Fingers crossed!

=2014 June 10 Tuesday=
*Presented 3D printing results at morning meeting
*Began work on CEB Press .SKP
*Worked on Presentation on 3D Printing - [https://docs.google.com/a/opensourceecology.org/presentation/d/1csmBrlVIua4N-r2lH0gmbRBTo3uhPyPOd_EgnBuMY4A/edit#slide=id.g34eeff40f_020]
*Started rudimentary first print of [[File:01-222-00-2.STL]] for overnight printing

=2014 June 9 Monday=
*First day of work. Attended orientation, began worklog, hit the ground running.
*Worked on CEB Press [https://docs.google.com/presentation/d/11ZlpOzMNlIssL34HmSo-Q4j0asGqrDSd10Xue7zYJZQ/edit#slide=id.g34b07977b_617 Drawer Module documentation]
*Oriented self to basic CEB Press operation, brick compression process
*Swarmed on getting 3D printers up and running - worked on HYDRA Lulzbot. Got it connected to computer, leveled printbed pretty well. Ran into troubles with .gcode files - printer randomly stops prematurely, causing print to fail. Looks like Colten had similar troubles: [[Colten Jackson Log]]
*Successfully printed an Octopus on the TAZ out of pink PLA plastic:
[[File:3D print PLA Octopus.jpg|400px]]

=2014 June 8 Sunday=
Arrived at Factor-e Farm. Got settled in, setup living situation, met team.

Greg Log

2014-08-28T22:32:02Z

Greg Buckland:

Work log for [[User:Greg Buckland]] who spent 9 weeks here in Summer 2014. See [[Greg Buckland Dedicated Project Visit Application]] for more info about him.

=2014 August 28 Thursday=
*Updated [[Composting_Toilet]] wiki and documentation
*Cleaned HabLab living room
*Began reading through [[Lasersaur]] documentation / manual
*Continued improving/filling in this worklog

=2014 August 27 Wednesday=
*Moved microhouse lumber from south of new workshop to protected shelter east of old workshop
*Installed lock hardware and vent pipe cap on Composting Toilet
*worked on exploded parts diagram for Structural Powercube [[File:PCSF_vert.skp]]
[[File:draft_PC_expl.png|300px]]
*Began updating this worklog!!
'''IS THIS EXPLODED VERSION UPLOADED?''' - yes: [[File:PCSF_vert.skp]]

=2014 August 26 Tuesday=
*built shelves for my bedroom out of scrap materials
*swarmed on workshop cleanup (moved Microhouse 3 modules into old workshop, moved lumber out of the way, etc.)
*updated Composting Toilet CAD file
*led evening walkthrough/tutorial on Sketchup (walked through CAD drawing of barrel bolt latch design for toilet on the big screen)
[[File:barrel_bolt.png|300px]]
[[File:Barrel Bolt Lock.skp]]

=2014 August 25 Monday=
*completed fabrication of latch hardware for composting toilet
*worked on fabricating earth anchors to stake down the composting toilet (against possible wind intrusion)
*cleaned and dried tents left out in the rain & mud after microhouse workshop

=2014 August 23 Saturday=
*Deep cleaned Hablab kitchen, including dealing with [https://www.facebook.com/groups/1502145196684445/permalink/1519479808284317/ fermented watermelon]
*Swept & vacuumed Hablab living room and Pink room

=2014 August 22 Friday=
*Finished and installed doors, hinges, and door handles on composting toilet
{| class="wikitable"
|-
|[[File:outhouse_complete_small.jpg|250px]]
|[[File:showing_off_toilet_small.jpg|450px]]
|[[File:Composting_Toilet_Sketchup.png|400px]]
|}
*Cleaned up remaining tools and scrap materials at composting toilet site
*Began fabrication/design for barrel bolt latches for doors
*Finished fabricating vent pipe cap

=2014 August 21 Thursday=
*Collected materials on hand for designing and building doors for composting toilet (used scrap 1x lumber and unused 3/4" carsiding)
*Began layout and construction of doors

=2014 August 20 Wednesday=
*Installed handrails on composting toilet
*Patched a few stray roof holes
*Began fabrication of vent pipe cap

=2014 August 19 Tuesday=
*Assisted with Microhouse 3 documentation
*Installed stair stringers and treads.
*Installed vent pipe. 3.5" hole saw from Sutherland's broke within first 30 seconds of use (either mandrel or saw threads stripped immediately, allowing saw to spin freely instead of cut, and preventing removal/replacement of saw on mandrel). Worked around by firmly tightening a 5/8" nut on mandrel threads.

=2014 August 18 Monday=
*Worked on Microhouse 3 documentation, including updating Sketchup files
*Designed & laid out stairs for composting toilet. Revised design to accommodate existing mature tree on site (shortened tread length and steepened stair angle to ~42°)
{| class="wikitable"
|-
|[[File:stair_layout.png|350px]]
|[[File:toilet_stair_sideview.png|300px]]
|}
*Cut stringers for toilet stairs

=2014 August 16 Saturday=
*Purchased materials for composting toilet at Sutherland's: 3.5" hole saw and pipe boot for vent pipe, treated 2x12's for stair stringers

=2014 August 7 thru 12=
*Completed midnight construction of Composting Toilet (installing a step-ladder and curtains instead of permanent stairs and doors)
{| class="wikitable"
|-
|[[File:midnight_toilet1.jpg|250px]]
|[[File:midnight_toilet2.jpg|250px]]
|[[File:midnight_toilet3.jpg|250px]]
|}
*Microshouse 3 workshop
*Supervised workshop during construction of carpentry modules
*Assisted with CAD questions and Dozuki documentation
*Laid bricks and installed window modules at site

=2014 July 28 Monday=
*Continued carpentry for formwork with Arif. Completed 2x4 frames

=2014 July 25 Friday=
*Continued carpentry for formwork with Victor. Began assembly of 2x4 frames

=2014 July 24 Thursday=
*Started carpentry for formwork: worked with Victor to setup the space, bring materials, get power to the site, and begin planning.

=2014 July 23 Wednesday=
*Returned to Factor-e Farm
*Drove Catarina to St. Joe on a hunt for a new laptop.

=2014 June 16 Monday thru June 20 Friday=
*Wisconsin for CEB Press Workshop, and Midwest Renewable Energy Fair. Returned to Boston June 20.

=2014 June 13 Friday=
*Continued work on 3D printers, CEB Press documentation, prep work for Wisconsin CEB Press workshop.

=2014 June 12 Thursday=
*Worked on master SKP file for CEB Press - working with layers, transparencies, etc. for creating functional schematic
*made 2 simple flat boxes with honeycomb - 1 stop ⅔ through, the other let it complete
*changed nozzle size setting in Slic3r to 0.5mm (and also increased layer hight to 0.5mm) - seems to work better! Seems that AO-100 has 0.5mm nozzle after all.
*worked on making fresher STL file for clampshells from SKP
*attempted ¼ size print - failed catastrophically - drifted in Y-axis, etc. Diagnosis: Z-stop too low, so Z-home presses nozzle too tightly agains the bed. Raised z-stop, and print was much better!

=2014 June 11 Wednesday=
*Presented 3D printing progress, challenges, learnings, including examination of 1st attempt at printing clampshell
*Reviewed [https://docs.google.com/presentation/d/11ZlpOzMNlIssL34HmSo-Q4j0asGqrDSd10Xue7zYJZQ/edit#slide=id.g351b52891_0280 CEB Press Drawer Module assembly instructions] in morning meeting
*Researched converting STEP files to SKP, and added to [[STEP to Sketchup]] wiki page
*Pulled clampshell file from CEB .SKP file, scaled to 1/4 size and exported to STL. Converted to .gcode using Slic3r at 0.75 infill. Print started OK, but about 20% of the way through, it was thrown off of the Y-axis by about 0.5" (20% of the 2.5" length). My working hypothesis is that working in other programs on my computer during the printing caused a serial error. To remedy this (and sleep/screensaver interruptions) I'm going to look into printing from Micro SD Card.
*Very good Micro SD Card printing instructions at the [http://www.lulzbot.com/support/3d-printing-microsd-card LulzBot site]. Successfully test printed bed level check from Micro SD Card.
*Also troubleshot blobby / pad printing on initial error. It was due to too much pressure between printhead and bed - see pictures below. I fixed it by raising the Z-endstop limit screw (see picture) and re-leveling print bed.
*Experimented with layer depth & infill. Found that 0.35 mm layer depth (equal to the nozzle size) works much better than the previous setting (which was 0.2 mm). Also honeycomb infill with a density of 0.3 works quite well for sturdy, relatively quick prints
*Began overnight print of full-size Female Clampshell with 0.3 density honeycomb infill. Fingers crossed!

=2014 June 10 Tuesday=
*Presented 3D printing results at morning meeting
*Began work on CEB Press .SKP
*Worked on Presentation on 3D Printing - [https://docs.google.com/a/opensourceecology.org/presentation/d/1csmBrlVIua4N-r2lH0gmbRBTo3uhPyPOd_EgnBuMY4A/edit#slide=id.g34eeff40f_020]
*Started rudimentary first print of [[File:01-222-00-2.STL]] for overnight printing

=2014 June 9 Monday=
*First day of work. Attended orientation, began worklog, hit the ground running.
*Worked on CEB Press [https://docs.google.com/presentation/d/11ZlpOzMNlIssL34HmSo-Q4j0asGqrDSd10Xue7zYJZQ/edit#slide=id.g34b07977b_617 Drawer Module documentation]
*Oriented self to basic CEB Press operation, brick compression process
*Swarmed on getting 3D printers up and running - worked on HYDRA Lulzbot. Got it connected to computer, leveled printbed pretty well. Ran into troubles with .gcode files - printer randomly stops prematurely, causing print to fail. Looks like Colten had similar troubles: [[Colten Jackson Log]]
*Successfully printed an Octopus on the TAZ out of pink PLA plastic:
[[File:3D print PLA Octopus.jpg|400px]]

=2014 June 8 Sunday=
Arrived at Factor-e Farm. Got settled in, setup living situation, met team.

User:Greg Buckland

2014-08-28T22:29:55Z

Greg Buckland:

More info to come soon...

[[Greg Buckland Dedicated Project Visit Application]]

[[Greg Buckland - Essay Excerpt]]

[[Greg Log]]

Greg Log

2014-08-28T22:27:01Z

Greg Buckland:

=2014 August 28 Thursday=
*Updated [[Composting_Toilet]] wiki and documentation
*Cleaned HabLab living room
*Began reading through [[Lasersaur]] documentation / manual
*Continued improving/filling in this worklog

=2014 August 27 Wednesday=
*Moved microhouse lumber from south of new workshop to protected shelter east of old workshop
*Installed lock hardware and vent pipe cap on Composting Toilet
*worked on exploded parts diagram for Structural Powercube [[File:PCSF_vert.skp]]
[[File:draft_PC_expl.png|300px]]
*Began updating this worklog!!
'''IS THIS EXPLODED VERSION UPLOADED?''' - yes: [[File:PCSF_vert.skp]]

=2014 August 26 Tuesday=
*built shelves for my bedroom out of scrap materials
*swarmed on workshop cleanup (moved Microhouse 3 modules into old workshop, moved lumber out of the way, etc.)
*updated Composting Toilet CAD file
*led evening walkthrough/tutorial on Sketchup (walked through CAD drawing of barrel bolt latch design for toilet on the big screen)
[[File:barrel_bolt.png|300px]]
[[File:Barrel Bolt Lock.skp]]

=2014 August 25 Monday=
*completed fabrication of latch hardware for composting toilet
*worked on fabricating earth anchors to stake down the composting toilet (against possible wind intrusion)
*cleaned and dried tents left out in the rain & mud after microhouse workshop

=2014 August 23 Saturday=
*Deep cleaned Hablab kitchen, including dealing with [https://www.facebook.com/groups/1502145196684445/permalink/1519479808284317/ fermented watermelon]
*Swept & vacuumed Hablab living room and Pink room

=2014 August 22 Friday=
*Finished and installed doors, hinges, and door handles on composting toilet
{| class="wikitable"
|-
|[[File:outhouse_complete_small.jpg|250px]]
|[[File:showing_off_toilet_small.jpg|450px]]
|[[File:Composting_Toilet_Sketchup.png|400px]]
|}
*Cleaned up remaining tools and scrap materials at composting toilet site
*Began fabrication/design for barrel bolt latches for doors
*Finished fabricating vent pipe cap

=2014 August 21 Thursday=
*Collected materials on hand for designing and building doors for composting toilet (used scrap 1x lumber and unused 3/4" carsiding)
*Began layout and construction of doors

=2014 August 20 Wednesday=
*Installed handrails on composting toilet
*Patched a few stray roof holes
*Began fabrication of vent pipe cap

=2014 August 19 Tuesday=
*Assisted with Microhouse 3 documentation
*Installed stair stringers and treads.
*Installed vent pipe. 3.5" hole saw from Sutherland's broke within first 30 seconds of use (either mandrel or saw threads stripped immediately, allowing saw to spin freely instead of cut, and preventing removal/replacement of saw on mandrel). Worked around by firmly tightening a 5/8" nut on mandrel threads.

=2014 August 18 Monday=
*Worked on Microhouse 3 documentation, including updating Sketchup files
*Designed & laid out stairs for composting toilet. Revised design to accommodate existing mature tree on site (shortened tread length and steepened stair angle to ~42°)
{| class="wikitable"
|-
|[[File:stair_layout.png|350px]]
|[[File:toilet_stair_sideview.png|300px]]
|}
*Cut stringers for toilet stairs

=2014 August 16 Saturday=
*Purchased materials for composting toilet at Sutherland's: 3.5" hole saw and pipe boot for vent pipe, treated 2x12's for stair stringers

=2014 August 7 thru 12=
*Completed midnight construction of Composting Toilet (installing a step-ladder and curtains instead of permanent stairs and doors)
{| class="wikitable"
|-
|[[File:midnight_toilet1.jpg|250px]]
|[[File:midnight_toilet2.jpg|250px]]
|[[File:midnight_toilet3.jpg|250px]]
|}
*Microshouse 3 workshop
*Supervised workshop during construction of carpentry modules
*Assisted with CAD questions and Dozuki documentation
*Laid bricks and installed window modules at site

=2014 July 28 Monday=
*Continued carpentry for formwork with Arif. Completed 2x4 frames

=2014 July 25 Friday=
*Continued carpentry for formwork with Victor. Began assembly of 2x4 frames

=2014 July 24 Thursday=
*Started carpentry for formwork: worked with Victor to setup the space, bring materials, get power to the site, and begin planning.

=2014 July 23 Wednesday=
*Returned to Factor-e Farm
*Drove Catarina to St. Joe on a hunt for a new laptop.

=2014 June 16 Monday thru June 20 Friday=
*Wisconsin for CEB Press Workshop, and Midwest Renewable Energy Fair. Returned to Boston June 20.

=2014 June 13 Friday=
*Continued work on 3D printers, CEB Press documentation, prep work for Wisconsin CEB Press workshop.

=2014 June 12 Thursday=
*Worked on master SKP file for CEB Press - working with layers, transparencies, etc. for creating functional schematic
*made 2 simple flat boxes with honeycomb - 1 stop ⅔ through, the other let it complete
*changed nozzle size setting in Slic3r to 0.5mm (and also increased layer hight to 0.5mm) - seems to work better! Seems that AO-100 has 0.5mm nozzle after all.
*worked on making fresher STL file for clampshells from SKP
*attempted ¼ size print - failed catastrophically - drifted in Y-axis, etc. Diagnosis: Z-stop too low, so Z-home presses nozzle too tightly agains the bed. Raised z-stop, and print was much better!

=2014 June 11 Wednesday=
*Presented 3D printing progress, challenges, learnings, including examination of 1st attempt at printing clampshell
*Reviewed [https://docs.google.com/presentation/d/11ZlpOzMNlIssL34HmSo-Q4j0asGqrDSd10Xue7zYJZQ/edit#slide=id.g351b52891_0280 CEB Press Drawer Module assembly instructions] in morning meeting
*Researched converting STEP files to SKP, and added to [[STEP to Sketchup]] wiki page
*Pulled clampshell file from CEB .SKP file, scaled to 1/4 size and exported to STL. Converted to .gcode using Slic3r at 0.75 infill. Print started OK, but about 20% of the way through, it was thrown off of the Y-axis by about 0.5" (20% of the 2.5" length). My working hypothesis is that working in other programs on my computer during the printing caused a serial error. To remedy this (and sleep/screensaver interruptions) I'm going to look into printing from Micro SD Card.
*Very good Micro SD Card printing instructions at the [http://www.lulzbot.com/support/3d-printing-microsd-card LulzBot site]. Successfully test printed bed level check from Micro SD Card.
*Also troubleshot blobby / pad printing on initial error. It was due to too much pressure between printhead and bed - see pictures below. I fixed it by raising the Z-endstop limit screw (see picture) and re-leveling print bed.
*Experimented with layer depth & infill. Found that 0.35 mm layer depth (equal to the nozzle size) works much better than the previous setting (which was 0.2 mm). Also honeycomb infill with a density of 0.3 works quite well for sturdy, relatively quick prints
*Began overnight print of full-size Female Clampshell with 0.3 density honeycomb infill. Fingers crossed!

=2014 June 10 Tuesday=
*Presented 3D printing results at morning meeting
*Began work on CEB Press .SKP
*Worked on Presentation on 3D Printing - [https://docs.google.com/a/opensourceecology.org/presentation/d/1csmBrlVIua4N-r2lH0gmbRBTo3uhPyPOd_EgnBuMY4A/edit#slide=id.g34eeff40f_020]
*Started rudimentary first print of [[File:01-222-00-2.STL]] for overnight printing

=2014 June 9 Monday=
*First day of work. Attended orientation, began worklog, hit the ground running.
*Worked on CEB Press [https://docs.google.com/presentation/d/11ZlpOzMNlIssL34HmSo-Q4j0asGqrDSd10Xue7zYJZQ/edit#slide=id.g34b07977b_617 Drawer Module documentation]
*Oriented self to basic CEB Press operation, brick compression process
*Swarmed on getting 3D printers up and running - worked on HYDRA Lulzbot. Got it connected to computer, leveled printbed pretty well. Ran into troubles with .gcode files - printer randomly stops prematurely, causing print to fail. Looks like Colten had similar troubles: [[Colten Jackson Log]]
*Successfully printed an Octopus on the TAZ out of pink PLA plastic:
[[File:3D print PLA Octopus.jpg|400px]]

=2014 June 8 Sunday=
Arrived at Factor-e Farm. Got settled in, setup living situation, met team.

Composting Toilet

2014-08-28T22:25:41Z

Greg Buckland: /* Work Still Needed */

{{Category=Soil and compost}}
{{Category=Home fittings}}

=Current Design, 2014=

Our design is an above-ground, low-maintenance composting toilet that is intended for large groups (workshop participants, interns) over a short term. The toilet facilitates the decomposition of humanure in an isolated straw-bale chamber.

It is based on Nancy Rosalie's [http://www.mofga.org/Publications/MaineOrganicFarmerGardener/Fall2009/Thrones/tabid/1255/Default.aspx Common Throne] for the [http://www.mofga.org/theFair Common Ground Fair] in Unity, Maine.

{| class="wikitable"
|-
|[[File:outhouse_complete_small.jpg|250px]]
|[[File:Composting_Toilet_Sketchup.png|400px]]
|}
[[File:Composting_Toilet.skp]]

==Introduction==

===What is “humanure”?===
Humanure (human manure) is human fecal material and urine. It can be a major source of environmental pollution around the world. It also can be a source of disease organisms. When discarded into the environment as a waste material, it creates pollution and threatens public health. When recycled by composting, the pollution and health threats can be eliminated. Humanure contains valuable soil nutrients that enhance plant growth. For these reasons, humanure should be recycled whenever possible.

===What is composting?===
Composting is the feeding of organic material such as humanure and food scraps to small organisms such as beneficial bacteria. Many compost organisms are too small to be seen, however, many of them can be seen. The larger ones include earthworms and many other tiny insects. Fungi also live in compost piles and they digest the tougher, woody plant materials.

*Definitions from Joseph Jenkins,[http://weblife.org/humanure/default.html Humanure Handbook])
===How does it work?===
Humanure, when collected and contained in an enclosed environment, and combined with carbon based cover material, goes through a process of aerobic decomposition to create nutrient rich humus. This process destroys pathogens and allows bacteria to thoroughly decompose the refuse material. With the appropriate conditions, with correct air flow, temperature, carbon:nitrogen ratio, the human refuse will aerobically decompose into nutrient rich humus.

===Why?===
In contemporary society, we have broken the ecology of the human nutrient cycle. Factory farms apply chemical fertilizers to agricultural land, in order to support the vegetation. Consumers then discard refuse and flush away their ‘waste’ to sewers and landfills, sacrificing valuable nutrients and polluting drinking water.

Open Source Ecology, as an educational hub, has an obligation to demonstrate the possibility of reintegrating ourselves within the environment, starting with the most basic of human functions; eating, digesting, and excreting waste, and transforming our byproducts into valuable resources. The composting toilet is directly in line with the basic mission of OSE, to preserve water and provide soil nourishment, which are essential for the revitalization of the landscape and resilience for the future.

==Use and Maintenance of Current System==
*Limit liquids and moisture (no urine) in chamber, in order to maintain appropriate moisture content in chamber, and reduce odors

*After each visit to the toilet, add just enough sawdust to completely cover your contribution

*Close toilet lid and open stall doors after each use to limit flies and odor

*Weekly cleaning:
**Clean 5 gallon bucket "poop chutes" - minimize use of water, and only a tiny amount of biodegradable soap (e.g. Dr. Bronners) if necessary
**Sweep out chambers, deck, and stairs
**Restock toilet paper (ideally bleach free)
**Replenish sawdust (from nearby sawmill or our own workshop - NOTE: Clean sawdust only; e.g. NO Hydraulic fluid, NO treated lumber dust, NO pink foam dust)

*When the chamber is filled to capacity, (determined by users, after the summer season of workshops/interns) the toilet should be closed and left undisturbed for 8 to 12 months. This is when the composting process will occur.

*After approximately 8 months to 1 year, the back wall of straw-bales is removed and the finished compost is shoveled from the chamber. Composted humus should be ready for laying around trees and ornamental plants; NOT recommended for vegetable gardening. New straw-bales are added as needed, and the process begins again.

'''*Recommended Fallow Period: October 1st - June 1st''' - this will allow 8 months for composting

==Work Still Needed==
''In rough priority order''
*Seal, stain, or paint the toilet
**Remove doors and metal hardware
**Paint metal hardware with spraypaint (black?)
**Paint or seal doors, stair treads, and railings. Consider sealing/painting exposed 2x4 wall framing, roof rafters. Especially focus on sealing/painting the end grains of all exposed untreated wood.
**Ask Sutherland's or Menard's what they recommend for deck or shed sealing/painting
**'''DO NOT seal or paint Treated Lumber before 2015 June 1'''. Treated lumber is greenish in hue and includes: stair stringers, ribbon/rim joists, 3/4" deck plywood, 1/2" sheathing plywood. It needs to breath and dry out before it can be safely sealed or painted.

*Anchor the toilet for wind protection using [http://www.menards.com/main/building-materials/storage-buildings/storage-building-accessories/3-x-30-earth-anchor/p-1349524-c-9565.htm earth anchors] and cables / [http://www.menards.com/main/tools-hardware/household-hardware/utility-hardware/turnbuckles/50-turnbuckle/p-2014919-c-9710.htm turnbuckles].

*Install toilet paper holders / dowels between wall studs.

*Make good signage, including:
**"CLOSED FOR COMPOSTING. October 1st - June 1st
**Instructions for use
**Instructions for cleaning
**Philosophy & theory of composting toilets

*Good documentation of build, here on the Wiki or on Dozuki

*Add 1/4" plywood sides to seatboxes to hide the bucket/"poop chutes"

----
=== Proposed Timeline ===

October 1st, 2014: Close toilet for composting.

June 1st, 2015: Re-open and collect decomposed material with arrival of new interns. Add new straw-bales for chamber as needed.

'''Yes compost'''

feces, urine, menstrual blood

sawdust

toilet paper

toilet paper rolls (cardboard)

paper or cotton based feminine hygiene products

'''No compost:'''

plastics

plastic feminine hygiene products

==The Plans==

===SketchUp===

[[File:Composting_Toilet.skp]]

===Dozuki===
[http://opensourceecology.dozuki.com/Guide/How+to+build+and+maintain+a+waterless+above-ground+chamber+Composting+Toilet/175 Dozuki instructionals]

=Previously Used System, 2012=

This is the exact technique for a simple composting toilet that we use at Factor e Farm (from a [http://weblife.org/humanure/default.html Humanure Handbook], (see [http://weblife.org/humanure/chapter8_2.html exact page and further pictures]):

“How it works is a model of simplicity. One begins by depositing one’s organic refuse (feces and urine) into a plastic bucket, clay urn, or other non-corrodible waterproof receptacle with about a five gallon (20 liter) capacity. Food scraps may be collected in a separate receptacle, but can also be deposited into the toilet receptacle. A five gallon capacity is recommended because a larger size would be too heavy to carry when full. If five gallons is still too heavy for someone to carry, it can be emptied when half-full.

The contents of the toilet are kept covered with a clean, plant-based cover material such as rotted sawdust, peat moss, leaf mould, rice hulls, or grass clippings, in order to prevent odors, absorb urine, and eliminate any fly nuisance. Urine is deposited into the same receptacle, and as the liquid surface rises, more cover material is added so that a clean layer of organic material covers the toilet contents at all times.

A lid is kept on the toilet receptacle when not in use. The lid need not be air-tight, and a standard, hinged toilet seat is quite suitable. The lid does not necessarily prevent odor from escaping, and it does not necessarily prevent flies from gaining access to the toilet contents. Instead, the cover material does. The cover material acts as an organic lid or a “biofilter”; the physical lid (toilet seat) is used primarily for convenience and aesthetics.”
----

The idea of a composting toilet is to keep compost around 43-50°C (110-122°F) for at least a week, to create an environment in which beneficial microorganisms thrive and pathogenic ones die. ''The Humanure Handbook'' says, "A sound approach to pathogen destruction when composting humanure is to [[Thermophilic compost|thermophilically compost]] the toilet material, then allow the compost to sit, undisturbed, for a lengthy period of time after the thermophilic heating stage has ended."

The way to accomplish this is:
* Use sawdust to bury manure. Sawdust provides carbon and this balances the nitrogen in the faeces. A good carbon-nitrogen balance is needed for composting. The sawdust also keeps bad smells in and keeps flies away. [[Biochar]] could also profitably be used for this purpose.
* Do not seperate urine and feces, as the urine provides moisture the microorganisms need.
* As well as adding the buckets from the toilet to the compost heap, throw on chunky materials like straw. This traps air pockets in the compost heap.
* Optionally, skewer the compost heap with sticks or pipes to provide more aeration.
* Let it sit for a year before using on plants

==Resources==
*''The Humanure Handbook, 3rd edition'' [http://humanurehandbook.com/contents.html here]

* Terra Preta Toilet
** [http://www.phlush.org/ecological-sanitation/terra-preta/ 1]
** [http://www.sswm.info/category/implementation-tools/water-use/hardware/toilet-systems/terra-preta-toilet 2]
* [http://teachdemocracy.org/cms/index.php/projects/naturaltoilets/toilet-article/ Natural Toilets]

*[http://en.howtopedia.org/wiki/How_to_Build_a_Compost_Toilet How-to-guide]

*[http://www.gytte.org/DCT.htm Dry Composting Toilet]

*[http://www.cropthornehouse.co.uk/design/ Cropthorne Autonomous House]

*[http://www.pacificwater.org/userfiles/file/mr0249.pdf Pacific Water Toilet designs]

*[http://cottagelife.com/files/2011/05/Privy-Plan.pdf composting toilet outhouse plans]

Composting Toilet

2014-08-28T22:20:31Z

Greg Buckland:

{{Category=Soil and compost}}
{{Category=Home fittings}}

=Current Design, 2014=

Our design is an above-ground, low-maintenance composting toilet that is intended for large groups (workshop participants, interns) over a short term. The toilet facilitates the decomposition of humanure in an isolated straw-bale chamber.

It is based on Nancy Rosalie's [http://www.mofga.org/Publications/MaineOrganicFarmerGardener/Fall2009/Thrones/tabid/1255/Default.aspx Common Throne] for the [http://www.mofga.org/theFair Common Ground Fair] in Unity, Maine.

{| class="wikitable"
|-
|[[File:outhouse_complete_small.jpg|250px]]
|[[File:Composting_Toilet_Sketchup.png|400px]]
|}
[[File:Composting_Toilet.skp]]

==Introduction==

===What is “humanure”?===
Humanure (human manure) is human fecal material and urine. It can be a major source of environmental pollution around the world. It also can be a source of disease organisms. When discarded into the environment as a waste material, it creates pollution and threatens public health. When recycled by composting, the pollution and health threats can be eliminated. Humanure contains valuable soil nutrients that enhance plant growth. For these reasons, humanure should be recycled whenever possible.

===What is composting?===
Composting is the feeding of organic material such as humanure and food scraps to small organisms such as beneficial bacteria. Many compost organisms are too small to be seen, however, many of them can be seen. The larger ones include earthworms and many other tiny insects. Fungi also live in compost piles and they digest the tougher, woody plant materials.

*Definitions from Joseph Jenkins,[http://weblife.org/humanure/default.html Humanure Handbook])
===How does it work?===
Humanure, when collected and contained in an enclosed environment, and combined with carbon based cover material, goes through a process of aerobic decomposition to create nutrient rich humus. This process destroys pathogens and allows bacteria to thoroughly decompose the refuse material. With the appropriate conditions, with correct air flow, temperature, carbon:nitrogen ratio, the human refuse will aerobically decompose into nutrient rich humus.

===Why?===
In contemporary society, we have broken the ecology of the human nutrient cycle. Factory farms apply chemical fertilizers to agricultural land, in order to support the vegetation. Consumers then discard refuse and flush away their ‘waste’ to sewers and landfills, sacrificing valuable nutrients and polluting drinking water.

Open Source Ecology, as an educational hub, has an obligation to demonstrate the possibility of reintegrating ourselves within the environment, starting with the most basic of human functions; eating, digesting, and excreting waste, and transforming our byproducts into valuable resources. The composting toilet is directly in line with the basic mission of OSE, to preserve water and provide soil nourishment, which are essential for the revitalization of the landscape and resilience for the future.

==Use and Maintenance of Current System==
*Limit liquids and moisture (no urine) in chamber, in order to maintain appropriate moisture content in chamber, and reduce odors

*After each visit to the toilet, add just enough sawdust to completely cover your contribution

*Close toilet lid and open stall doors after each use to limit flies and odor

*Weekly cleaning:
**Clean 5 gallon bucket "poop chutes" - minimize use of water, and only a tiny amount of biodegradable soap (e.g. Dr. Bronners) if necessary
**Sweep out chambers, deck, and stairs
**Restock toilet paper (ideally bleach free)
**Replenish sawdust (from nearby sawmill or our own workshop - NOTE: Clean sawdust only; e.g. NO Hydraulic fluid, NO treated lumber dust, NO pink foam dust)

*When the chamber is filled to capacity, (determined by users, after the summer season of workshops/interns) the toilet should be closed and left undisturbed for 8 to 12 months. This is when the composting process will occur.

*After approximately 8 months to 1 year, the back wall of straw-bales is removed and the finished compost is shoveled from the chamber. Composted humus should be ready for laying around trees and ornamental plants; NOT recommended for vegetable gardening. New straw-bales are added as needed, and the process begins again.

'''*Recommended Fallow Period: October 1st - June 1st''' - this will allow 8 months for composting

==Work Still Needed==
*Seal, stain, or paint the toilet
**Remove doors and metal hardware
**Paint metal hardware with spraypaint (black?)
**Paint or seal doors, stair treads, and railings. Consider sealing/painting exposed 2x4 wall framing, roof rafters. Especially focus on sealing/painting the end grains of all exposed untreated wood.
**Ask Sutherland's or Menard's what they recommend for deck or shed sealing/painting
**'''DO NOT seal or paint Treated Lumber before 2015 June 1'''. Treated lumber is greenish in hue and includes: stair stringers, ribbon/rim joists, 3/4" deck plywood, 1/2" sheathing plywood. It needs to breath and dry out before it can be safely sealed or painted.

*Anchor the toilet for wind protection using [http://www.menards.com/main/building-materials/storage-buildings/storage-building-accessories/3-x-30-earth-anchor/p-1349524-c-9565.htm earth anchors] and cables / [http://www.menards.com/main/tools-hardware/household-hardware/utility-hardware/turnbuckles/50-turnbuckle/p-2014919-c-9710.htm turnbuckles].

*Install toilet paper holders / dowels between wall studs.

*Make good signage, including:
**"CLOSED FOR COMPOSTING. October 1st - June 1st
**Instructions for use
**Instructions for cleaning
**Philosophy & theory of composting toilets

*Good documentation of build, here on the Wiki or on Dozuki

----
=== Proposed Timeline ===

October 1st, 2014: Close toilet for composting.

June 1st, 2015: Re-open and collect decomposed material with arrival of new interns. Add new straw-bales for chamber as needed.

'''Yes compost'''

feces, urine, menstrual blood

sawdust

toilet paper

toilet paper rolls (cardboard)

paper or cotton based feminine hygiene products

'''No compost:'''

plastics

plastic feminine hygiene products

==The Plans==

===SketchUp===

[[File:Composting_Toilet.skp]]

===Dozuki===
[http://opensourceecology.dozuki.com/Guide/How+to+build+and+maintain+a+waterless+above-ground+chamber+Composting+Toilet/175 Dozuki instructionals]

=Previously Used System, 2012=

This is the exact technique for a simple composting toilet that we use at Factor e Farm (from a [http://weblife.org/humanure/default.html Humanure Handbook], (see [http://weblife.org/humanure/chapter8_2.html exact page and further pictures]):

“How it works is a model of simplicity. One begins by depositing one’s organic refuse (feces and urine) into a plastic bucket, clay urn, or other non-corrodible waterproof receptacle with about a five gallon (20 liter) capacity. Food scraps may be collected in a separate receptacle, but can also be deposited into the toilet receptacle. A five gallon capacity is recommended because a larger size would be too heavy to carry when full. If five gallons is still too heavy for someone to carry, it can be emptied when half-full.

The contents of the toilet are kept covered with a clean, plant-based cover material such as rotted sawdust, peat moss, leaf mould, rice hulls, or grass clippings, in order to prevent odors, absorb urine, and eliminate any fly nuisance. Urine is deposited into the same receptacle, and as the liquid surface rises, more cover material is added so that a clean layer of organic material covers the toilet contents at all times.

A lid is kept on the toilet receptacle when not in use. The lid need not be air-tight, and a standard, hinged toilet seat is quite suitable. The lid does not necessarily prevent odor from escaping, and it does not necessarily prevent flies from gaining access to the toilet contents. Instead, the cover material does. The cover material acts as an organic lid or a “biofilter”; the physical lid (toilet seat) is used primarily for convenience and aesthetics.”
----

The idea of a composting toilet is to keep compost around 43-50°C (110-122°F) for at least a week, to create an environment in which beneficial microorganisms thrive and pathogenic ones die. ''The Humanure Handbook'' says, "A sound approach to pathogen destruction when composting humanure is to [[Thermophilic compost|thermophilically compost]] the toilet material, then allow the compost to sit, undisturbed, for a lengthy period of time after the thermophilic heating stage has ended."

The way to accomplish this is:
* Use sawdust to bury manure. Sawdust provides carbon and this balances the nitrogen in the faeces. A good carbon-nitrogen balance is needed for composting. The sawdust also keeps bad smells in and keeps flies away. [[Biochar]] could also profitably be used for this purpose.
* Do not seperate urine and feces, as the urine provides moisture the microorganisms need.
* As well as adding the buckets from the toilet to the compost heap, throw on chunky materials like straw. This traps air pockets in the compost heap.
* Optionally, skewer the compost heap with sticks or pipes to provide more aeration.
* Let it sit for a year before using on plants

==Resources==
*''The Humanure Handbook, 3rd edition'' [http://humanurehandbook.com/contents.html here]

* Terra Preta Toilet
** [http://www.phlush.org/ecological-sanitation/terra-preta/ 1]
** [http://www.sswm.info/category/implementation-tools/water-use/hardware/toilet-systems/terra-preta-toilet 2]
* [http://teachdemocracy.org/cms/index.php/projects/naturaltoilets/toilet-article/ Natural Toilets]

*[http://en.howtopedia.org/wiki/How_to_Build_a_Compost_Toilet How-to-guide]

*[http://www.gytte.org/DCT.htm Dry Composting Toilet]

*[http://www.cropthornehouse.co.uk/design/ Cropthorne Autonomous House]

*[http://www.pacificwater.org/userfiles/file/mr0249.pdf Pacific Water Toilet designs]

*[http://cottagelife.com/files/2011/05/Privy-Plan.pdf composting toilet outhouse plans]

Composting Toilet

2014-08-28T21:31:01Z

Greg Buckland: /* Use and Maintenance of Current System */

{{Category=Soil and compost}}
{{Category=Home fittings}}

=Current Design, 2014=

Our design is an above-ground, low-maintenance composting toilet that is intended for large groups (workshop participants, interns) over a short term. The toilet facilitates the decomposition of humanure in an isolated straw-bale chamber.

It is based on Nancy Rosalie's [http://www.mofga.org/Publications/MaineOrganicFarmerGardener/Fall2009/Thrones/tabid/1255/Default.aspx Common Throne] for the [http://www.mofga.org/theFair Common Ground Fair] in Unity, Maine.

{| class="wikitable"
|-
|[[File:outhouse_complete_small.jpg|250px]]
|[[File:Composting_Toilet_Sketchup.png|400px]]
|}
[[File:Composting_Toilet.skp]]

==Introduction==

===What is “humanure”?===
Humanure (human manure) is human fecal material and urine. It can be a major source of environmental pollution around the world. It also can be a source of disease organisms. When discarded into the environment as a waste material, it creates pollution and threatens public health. When recycled by composting, the pollution and health threats can be eliminated. Humanure contains valuable soil nutrients that enhance plant growth. For these reasons, humanure should be recycled whenever possible.

===What is composting?===
Composting is the feeding of organic material such as humanure and food scraps to small organisms such as beneficial bacteria. Many compost organisms are too small to be seen, however, many of them can be seen. The larger ones include earthworms and many other tiny insects. Fungi also live in compost piles and they digest the tougher, woody plant materials.

*Definitions from Joseph Jenkins,[http://weblife.org/humanure/default.html Humanure Handbook])
===How does it work?===
Humanure, when collected and contained in an enclosed environment, and combined with carbon based cover material, goes through a process of aerobic decomposition to create nutrient rich humus. This process destroys pathogens and allows bacteria to thoroughly decompose the refuse material. With the appropriate conditions, with correct air flow, temperature, carbon:nitrogen ratio, the human refuse will aerobically decompose into nutrient rich humus.

===Why?===
In contemporary society, we have broken the ecology of the human nutrient cycle. Factory farms apply chemical fertilizers to agricultural land, in order to support the vegetation. Consumers then discard refuse and flush away their ‘waste’ to sewers and landfills, sacrificing valuable nutrients and polluting drinking water.

Open Source Ecology, as an educational hub, has an obligation to demonstrate the possibility of reintegrating ourselves within the environment, starting with the most basic of human functions; eating, digesting, and excreting waste, and transforming our byproducts into valuable resources. The composting toilet is directly in line with the basic mission of OSE, to preserve water and provide soil nourishment, which are essential for the revitalization of the landscape and resilience for the future.

==Use and Maintenance of Current System==
*Limit liquids and moisture (no urine) in chamber, in order to maintain appropriate moisture content in chamber, and reduce odors

*After each visit to the toilet, add just enough sawdust to completely cover your contribution

*Close toilet lid and open stall doors after each use to limit flies and odor

*Weekly cleaning:
**Clean 5 gallon bucket "poop chutes" - minimize use of water, and only a tiny amount of biodegradable soap (e.g. Dr. Bronners) if necessary
**Sweep out chambers, deck, and stairs
**Restock toilet paper (ideally bleach free)
**Replenish sawdust (from nearby sawmill or our own workshop - NOTE: Clean sawdust only; e.g. NO Hydraulic fluid, NO treated lumber dust, NO pink foam dust)

*When the chamber is filled to capacity, (determined by users, after the summer season of workshops/interns) the toilet should be closed and left undisturbed for 8 to 12 months. This is when the composting process will occur.

*After approximately 8 months to 1 year, the back wall of straw-bales is removed and the finished compost is shoveled from the chamber. Composted humus should be ready for laying around trees and ornamental plants; NOT recommended for vegetable gardening. New straw-bales are added as needed, and the process begins again.

'''*Recommended Fallow Period: October 1st - June 1st''' - this will allow 8 months for composting

----
=== Proposed Timeline ===

October 1st, 2014: Close toilet for composting.

June 1st, 2015: Re-open and collect decomposed material with arrival of new interns. Add new straw-bales for chamber as needed.

'''Yes compost'''

feces, urine, menstrual blood

sawdust

toilet paper

toilet paper rolls (cardboard)

paper or cotton based feminine hygiene products

'''No compost:'''

plastics

plastic feminine hygiene products

==The Plans==

===SketchUp===

[[File:Composting_Toilet.skp]]

===Dozuki===
[http://opensourceecology.dozuki.com/Guide/How+to+build+and+maintain+a+waterless+above-ground+chamber+Composting+Toilet/175 Dozuki instructionals]

=Previously Used System, 2012=

This is the exact technique for a simple composting toilet that we use at Factor e Farm (from a [http://weblife.org/humanure/default.html Humanure Handbook], (see [http://weblife.org/humanure/chapter8_2.html exact page and further pictures]):

“How it works is a model of simplicity. One begins by depositing one’s organic refuse (feces and urine) into a plastic bucket, clay urn, or other non-corrodible waterproof receptacle with about a five gallon (20 liter) capacity. Food scraps may be collected in a separate receptacle, but can also be deposited into the toilet receptacle. A five gallon capacity is recommended because a larger size would be too heavy to carry when full. If five gallons is still too heavy for someone to carry, it can be emptied when half-full.

The contents of the toilet are kept covered with a clean, plant-based cover material such as rotted sawdust, peat moss, leaf mould, rice hulls, or grass clippings, in order to prevent odors, absorb urine, and eliminate any fly nuisance. Urine is deposited into the same receptacle, and as the liquid surface rises, more cover material is added so that a clean layer of organic material covers the toilet contents at all times.

A lid is kept on the toilet receptacle when not in use. The lid need not be air-tight, and a standard, hinged toilet seat is quite suitable. The lid does not necessarily prevent odor from escaping, and it does not necessarily prevent flies from gaining access to the toilet contents. Instead, the cover material does. The cover material acts as an organic lid or a “biofilter”; the physical lid (toilet seat) is used primarily for convenience and aesthetics.”
----

The idea of a composting toilet is to keep compost around 43-50°C (110-122°F) for at least a week, to create an environment in which beneficial microorganisms thrive and pathogenic ones die. ''The Humanure Handbook'' says, "A sound approach to pathogen destruction when composting humanure is to [[Thermophilic compost|thermophilically compost]] the toilet material, then allow the compost to sit, undisturbed, for a lengthy period of time after the thermophilic heating stage has ended."

The way to accomplish this is:
* Use sawdust to bury manure. Sawdust provides carbon and this balances the nitrogen in the faeces. A good carbon-nitrogen balance is needed for composting. The sawdust also keeps bad smells in and keeps flies away. [[Biochar]] could also profitably be used for this purpose.
* Do not seperate urine and feces, as the urine provides moisture the microorganisms need.
* As well as adding the buckets from the toilet to the compost heap, throw on chunky materials like straw. This traps air pockets in the compost heap.
* Optionally, skewer the compost heap with sticks or pipes to provide more aeration.
* Let it sit for a year before using on plants

==Resources==
*''The Humanure Handbook, 3rd edition'' [http://humanurehandbook.com/contents.html here]

* Terra Preta Toilet
** [http://www.phlush.org/ecological-sanitation/terra-preta/ 1]
** [http://www.sswm.info/category/implementation-tools/water-use/hardware/toilet-systems/terra-preta-toilet 2]
* [http://teachdemocracy.org/cms/index.php/projects/naturaltoilets/toilet-article/ Natural Toilets]

*[http://en.howtopedia.org/wiki/How_to_Build_a_Compost_Toilet How-to-guide]

*[http://www.gytte.org/DCT.htm Dry Composting Toilet]

*[http://www.cropthornehouse.co.uk/design/ Cropthorne Autonomous House]

*[http://www.pacificwater.org/userfiles/file/mr0249.pdf Pacific Water Toilet designs]

*[http://cottagelife.com/files/2011/05/Privy-Plan.pdf composting toilet outhouse plans]