Open Source Ecology - User contributions [en]

CNC Torch Table

2011-12-20T21:49:39Z

Liseman: /* Status */

{{GVCS Header}}

==Overview==
[[Image:TorchTable.png|thumb|400px|Torch Table]]

[[Image:CNC Torch Tablepic.jpg|thumb|right|400px]]

The CNC Torch Table is a table capable of cutting designs out of metal with a 2-axis torch controlled by computer.

The CNC Torch Table provides a quicker solution for cutting sheet metal, especially into intricate patterns that are difficult to cut by hand.

{{Video}}

==Description==

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</html>

==Product Ecology==
[[Image:2b-Genfabecology.png|600px|thumb|General Fabrication [[Product Ecology]]]]

'''Made with'''
*{{Induction Furnace}} - Steel
*{{Multimachine}} - Precision Guides, bearings

'''Creates'''
*{{Lifetrac}} - Plates, holes
*{{CEB}} - Holes
*[[QA Plates]]

See [[Product Ecologies]] for more information.

==Components==

*[[Motors]]
*[[XYZ Table]]
*Frame
*[[Torch]]

==Specifications==

==Status==
'''Prototype I'''
Currently being used in experimental production runs. Tighter integration of [[Digital Fabrication]] is being researched as is the software toolchain (which is a current bottleneck).

'''Prototype II'''

*First step: perfection of mechanical design for replicability to 1/32" over 4x8' area
*Need open source controller, end stops, and z height automation/detection.
*We could use existing structure, with modifications. Right now we use gear rack. We can simplify the carriage structure.
*If we want to go all out - we could use full gas flow control - but that is probably beyond the scope of the present program - as it would require expensive parts until we can manufacture them ourselves.
*Open source [[stepper motors]] would be a good addition - if we could find somebody to design/fab them - that would be great.
*Computer vision for fully automated cutting would be the last step.
*Next steps: stiffening frame design to accommodate router heads
*Interview with owner of Ben's excellent DIY table setup in Smithville, TX:
<html>
<iframe width="640" height="360" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed//uebW4jhIiro?rel=0&hd=1" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
</html>
*[http://www.candcnc.com/ CandCNC setup used by Ben (dragon-cut 620 AIO); $1478]

=See Also=
*[[Torch Table Build Prototype 1 Completion]]
*[[Torch Table Specifications]]

*[http://openfarmtech.org/weblog/?p=1424 Blog Post]
*[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cnc Wikipedia: CNC]
*[[Torch]]

{{GVCS Footer}}

CNC Torch Table/Manufacturing Instructions

2011-12-20T21:25:34Z

Liseman: /* Photos of table, including measurements */

{{GVCS Header}}

This table uses standard stock steel parts with no finishing besides the finishing that is required.

If you caught that, then you have two options. Find a local machine shop to cut out all that steel you just purchased or live with some inaccuracies which should be adjustable.

==Necessary Tools==
*Something to cut accurate holes with
*Something to cut 3/8 inch treaded rod, 1/8 inch hot rolled steel plate, 1 inch tubing, etc...

==Tools We Used==
*Drill Press
*Hand Drill
*Metal File
*Phillips Screw Driver
*Flat Head Screw Driver
*Wrench able to fit up to 5/8 inch bolt heads and down to 1/8 inch nuts
*3/8 inch drill bit
*1/2 inch drill bit
*10 gauge drill bit
*10 gauge tap
*bubble level
*Builders Square
*Tape Measure
*Saw Horse
*C Clamps; two of each 3 inch, 4 inch, 6 inch
*friction jaw clamps
*wood spacers

===Building a Jig===
Yes its a technical [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jig_(tool) term.]

For our purposes we need a reliable way to drill somewhat precise holes quickly.

To do this we need to constrain the rack in the x y and z direction during drilling but allow movement along the y axis to reposition the rack for the next hole. In this example, the direction along the length will be our y axis.

There are several products out there that will do what we want, but they all need to be modified slightly for our purposes.

For drilling the holes, you'll need a guide made out of something that won't mar the metal. Wood or plastic works nicely.
If you have a vice or an x/y milling vice, these will work nicely although you'll have to make some sort of insert so the gear rack can slide easily in the vice channel. Here again wood or plastic are your friends.

If you don't have a vice and you do have some wood and some nuts and bolts that fit the mounting holes in your vice, you can make a temporary jig with blocks of wood which have to be aligned such that the drill head is above the rack, doesn't crater into the mounting plate (unless your wise enough to put a spacer block under the rail) and constrains the rail in the x direction while allowing free movement in the y direction. It'll take some practice but once you get it, you can use the same setup for all the rack.

The process is fairly simple, you mark your first hole on the rack and then every succeeding hole, you measure 8 inches (what we used) from the center of that hole. This can be achieved by adding a guide which you line up the center of the hole you just drilled with the guide such that the drill bit is over the next spot and the last drill hole you made is 8 inches away.

Lastly, you clamp down the rack in the z direction such that frictional forces and the wood blocks help constrain the rack for drilling. Releasing the clamp slightly until the rack is movable along the y direction again allows you to position the rack for the next hole to be drilled.

This documentation is quite good. The procedure for joing rack pieces, and for making a rack-CR-tube assembly should also be shown. Other than that, this is pretty impressive - MJ.

Drill Prep
*Oil rails to allow smooth motion in the jig
*Position loose blocks of jig
*use c clamps to force the jig against table surface
*make sure the 6 foot rack is well supported and is level with the drill table
*use c clamps and a spacer if nessisary to keep the rail clamped in between the jig and the drill table. (otherwise the rail can lift up off the table and the holes drilled won't be straight)
*slightly loosen all the c clamps such that an oiled rail can move freely in the jig.
*Now tighten up the jig, while leaving the c clamp that prevents the rail from wandering up such that the rail can still move back and forth.
*Make a shallow test indention and make sure that the drill bit isn't wandering and the hole lays between the bottom of the teeth and the edge of the rail. If you make a mistake, favor the edge of th rail.
*lock the drill press, rail, etc in place and begin drilling slowly.

==The Table==
The table uses half inch bolts. In the future, use four bolts instead of three, put the legs at the end of the table, add legs that have feet that are wide on all sides on the bottom, and frankly, never use this table design. Its too heavy to manufacture by one person and doesn't have any outstanding benefits besides "life time design" which is a fancy way of saying the damn thing will never be moved.

[[File:Work in progress of torch table frame.JPG| 400px|sub]]
[[File:Work In Progress Torch Table Leg.JPG| 400px|sub]]
[[File:Work In Progress Joint.JPG| 400px|sub]]

<html>
<object width="400" height="300"><param name="allowfullscreen" value="true" /><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always" /><param name="movie" value="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=6967679&server=vimeo.com&show_title=1&show_byline=1&show_portrait=0&color=&fullscreen=1" /><embed src="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=6967679&server=vimeo.com&show_title=1&show_byline=1&show_portrait=0&color=&fullscreen=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" allowscriptaccess="always" width="400" height="300"></embed></object><a href="http://vimeo.com/6967679">Wiggly table</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user2426029">Lawrence Kincheloe</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.
</html>

To correct the wiggle, the legs were moved to the corners of the table.

==The 3/8 inch threaded rod==
{|
|-
|[[File:S5000537.JPG| 400px|sub]]
|Get all the 3/8 nuts lined up. This allows you to cut the rod to size and use the nut to reshape the cut threads.
|-
|[[File:Nuts all in a row.JPG| 400px|sub]]
|Mark the cut lines. I used a red grease market.
|-
|[[File:V-groove bearing on shaft.JPG| 400px|sub]]
|This is what we want. Note the grease marker, springs, and other odds and ends. The final arrangement of nuts and washers has changed significantly due to life having different constraints than blender models.
|}

==The Motors==
Quick note on corrections and motor info.
In the final design we switched from using nylon thrust bearings to ball bearing thrust bearings. This greatly decreased fristion under load and allowed the arms to work properly. The purpose of the arms is to allow the motors to slip before becoming damaged. Because of this modification, we redesigned the motor mount arrangement such that the motor mount had one metal washer and one nylon washer. This allowed for very good spacing between motor and mount plate. Another note, get screw heads that fit with the motor mount holes. While we are on the topic, also instead of using the arms which are nifty and cool, use one long moment arm instead. It will drop the number of thrust bearings required from 8 to 2. Those thrust bearings aren't cheap so be warned.

===Motor specs===
Axil 1/4 inch diameter, 7/8 inch in length

Holes are a size 10

{|
|-
|[[File:Tools ready to insert gear to shaft.JPG|400px]]
|To make one of the motor carriages, we used a steel gear head with a brass insert to get the inner diameter size we needed.
|-
|[[File:Squeeze brass into gear.JPG|400px]]
|Because the tolerances were so tight, we were lucky we chose a harder and a softer material, because this allows us to squeeze the brass spacer into the gear.
|-
|[[File:Gear and drill.JPG|400px]]
|Once you get the gear on the brass spacer, use a drill bit to deburr the inside of the brass spacer so the motor fits again.
|-
|[[File:Screws all in a row.JPG|400px]]
|We made a mistake on what screws to get for the motor. The heads of the screw were too large so we had to cut them down using a hand held grinder.
|-
|[[File:Grinded screws.JPG|400px]]
|And after some tough love.
|-
|[[File:All the parts for motor.JPG|400px]]
|Now on to putting it together.
|-
|[[File:Fuzzy pic of washers and screws.JPG|400px]]
|Put the screws into the motor mount holes and use them to mount the washers. In this iteration, we used two nylon thrust bearing and eight metal washers. The goal is to give a smooth slippery surface for the arms to swing on and the metal bearings are spacers essentially.
|-
|[[File:Its got bunny ears.JPG|400px]]
|And now put on the arms with another nylon bearing on the other side.
|-
|[[File:Ten and two.JPG|400px]]
|once you get this all in place, hold the screws in position and gently shove the motor plate on. If the holes aren't aligned, feel free to "liberally" drill/file them larger.
|-
|[[File:Finished motor assembly and carriage.JPG|400px]]
|Now screw it together and lets mount it to the carriage!
|-
|[[File:Motor with gear and spring.JPG|400px]]
|Notice the previously unmentioned spring dangling off the side... well on the motor mount construction section you drill a hole and that hole fits the spring, which you slip on. This is also a good time to put the gear on and tighten it down. Also, while your at it, slip in the two screws and slip on some more nylon washers.
|-
|[[File:Almost done with motor.JPG|400px]]
|Slip the arms onto the carriage and add some more nylon washers, nuts, etc.
|-
|[[File:Attaching the spring.JPG|400px]]
|Now to attach the spring. This part is somewhat tricky, first put the bolt through the 1 inch square tube, then add a nut to the end, with just enough space to slip on the spring. Then slip on the other end of the spring. It should stretch the spring but also be possible to attach by hand. If its too loose/tight it means that one of the drill holes are off or something is backwards, like the motor plate. Once you have it on, slip on another nut as best you can. Then use a screw driver to turn the bolt such that both nuts stay roughly close to the spring. The goal isn't to tighten anything down super hard, but to catch both nuts in the spring and keep the spring from, well springing loose.
|-
|[[File:Put it on the rail.JPG|400px]]
|With that all done, now you can put it on the rails. In theory to adjust the carriage and motors, you loosen and tighten the top and bottom 1 inch tube pieces until the bearings sit on the rail. Then adjust the distance of the bearings from the 1 inch tube pieces such that they sit comfortably on the rails. Also make sure the gear is making good contact with the gear rack and that it isn't rubbing against the rail. The gear can also move slightly back and forth on the motor shaft which might come in handy.
|}

==Photos of table, including measurements==
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</html>

==Calibration==
Test square looks good. Only problem was that the step size was supposed to be 1/4 of that.
[[File:First Square.JPG|400px]]
===EMC2 motor scale===
One problem turned out to be that the software was expecting half stepping and the stepper board was expecting eighths stepping.

According to the EMC2 Scale documentation, input scale = (# steps / degree precision of stepper motors) * (360 degrees/revolution * # revolutions / inch)

So our input scale was, 8 steps/ 1.8 degrees * 360 degrees/ 1 revolution * 1 revolution / 3.14 inch = 509.29581789. The 8 steps is set via the Xylotex jumper configuration on the motor controller(default is 8 steps), the 1.8 degrees comes from the stepper motor specifications, the 1 inch comes from the outside radius of the gear attached to the stepper motor, and the rest comes from unit conversions.

[http://wiki.linuxcnc.org/cgi-bin/emcinfo.pl?TweakingSoftwareStepGeneration Software step generation info]

===tightening bolt pattern===
Because we are tensioning bolts, bearings and rail all at the same time; it is a good idea to tighten the nuts in a particular order.
The reason is to give better distribution of force over the entire member. In general, pick a point that is affected by gravity near the top and tighten it such that it is finger loose. Then pick its farthest companion bolt, (usually diagonally from origional bolt) and tighten it finger tight as well. Continue tightening bolts that are holding weight due to gravity and continue to select the bolt that will most greatly effect its adherence to the surface. Usually this ends up with a top left, bottom right, top right bottom left pattern. Continue tightening in 1/3 turn increments until the proper tensioning has been achieved.
===Dealing with loose bolts===
One problem that always comes up when using nuts and bolts, is that they tend to come apart. They make special screws and nuts that have built in washers and beveled grooves which dig into the metal, but we didn't use any of these. Instead we used thread lock which can be used in conjunction with the above special parts for extra grip. We purchased Loctite® Threadlocker & Retaining Compound Loctite® 243 Threadlocker Adhesive, .34 oz, Blue, which is formulated to be removable with hand tools and can be applied to parts that have some oil on them. I didn't want to degrease every nut and bolt, and using a thread locker, means I just have to loosen the nut enough to apply the blue goop.
{| border="0"
|-
|[[File:Loctite 243 and rail.JPG|400px]]
|
|-
|[[File:Thread locker applied.JPG|400px]]
|When applying, try to keep the nozzle of the bottle away from metal as the blue thread fastener cures on metal contact. Doing so should help prevent nozzle blockage. There are more useful tips at the loctite website and the data sheet for this product.
|-
|[[File:Gooped up.JPG|400px]]
|Be careful how much you apply and on what size bolts. The smaller the bolt the more likely you'll strip the head. A good rule of thumb is to apply a drop and if the bolt comes loose again, apply more. Its easier to reapply than to have to notch the screw head because you've stripped the phillips head grooves.
|-
|}

===Shooting lasers for fun and calibration===
Using a laser to help characterize motion is a fast and easy way to figure out how level something is. It can be used to determine how flat a surface is by sprinkling salt on a table and using a refracting lens that produces a laser line to shine on the sheet sideways. The desired effect is to light up every grain of salt. Dips and bumps will show up as places where the salt crystals don't glow red.

It can also be used in a similar manner to characterize how smooth the motion of travel over the length of the table by using a similar method. Using a straight beam of laser light, shine it along the axis of motion, such that the beam hits a scattered field of salt. For ease of reading, you can brush away unlit salt. Ideally there should be several places along the beam that you can use to help increase accuracy. Now move the table slowly so as not to disrupt the salt crystals and watch for crystals blinking out. If you find them blinking out, move the gantry back and record the point on the table the curve is happening. This indicates a place where some sort of bend is. Continue measuring and detect if the salt crystals ever become lit again. If they do, then its a bowing distortion which needs to be flattened by pulling it tight. If ti doesn't come back, then its a curve and something is causing the path to diverge. It could be dirt between the rail and the table, or it could be something major like a misaligned screw hole.

<html>
<object width="400" height="300"><param name="allowfullscreen" value="true" /><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always" /><param name="movie" value="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=6967410&server=vimeo.com&show_title=1&show_byline=1&show_portrait=0&color=&fullscreen=1" /><embed src="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=6967410&server=vimeo.com&show_title=1&show_byline=1&show_portrait=0&color=&fullscreen=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" allowscriptaccess="always" width="400" height="300"></embed></object><a href="http://vimeo.com/6967410">Calibrating using a laser</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user2426029">Lawrence Kincheloe</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.
</html>

===Dynamic Calibration===

There is also the option of using a touch off pad that has a conductive probe or a switch that allows for the tool head to come down.
Here is a link [http://cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=36099 to an example.]
Another idea is to get a dual position momentary contact switch that is calibrated to be in the range of the optimal torch head distance. That way the calibration stick is depressed into the material and follows the contour of the material. the torch head stays between the two contact zones so it can back off if it begins to get out of bounds. The tolerance isn't great but would make an easy addition.

{{GVCS Footer}}

CNC Torch Table/Manufacturing Instructions

2011-12-20T21:21:36Z

Liseman: /* Photos of table, including measurements */

{{GVCS Header}}

This table uses standard stock steel parts with no finishing besides the finishing that is required.

If you caught that, then you have two options. Find a local machine shop to cut out all that steel you just purchased or live with some inaccuracies which should be adjustable.

==Necessary Tools==
*Something to cut accurate holes with
*Something to cut 3/8 inch treaded rod, 1/8 inch hot rolled steel plate, 1 inch tubing, etc...

==Tools We Used==
*Drill Press
*Hand Drill
*Metal File
*Phillips Screw Driver
*Flat Head Screw Driver
*Wrench able to fit up to 5/8 inch bolt heads and down to 1/8 inch nuts
*3/8 inch drill bit
*1/2 inch drill bit
*10 gauge drill bit
*10 gauge tap
*bubble level
*Builders Square
*Tape Measure
*Saw Horse
*C Clamps; two of each 3 inch, 4 inch, 6 inch
*friction jaw clamps
*wood spacers

===Building a Jig===
Yes its a technical [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jig_(tool) term.]

For our purposes we need a reliable way to drill somewhat precise holes quickly.

To do this we need to constrain the rack in the x y and z direction during drilling but allow movement along the y axis to reposition the rack for the next hole. In this example, the direction along the length will be our y axis.

There are several products out there that will do what we want, but they all need to be modified slightly for our purposes.

For drilling the holes, you'll need a guide made out of something that won't mar the metal. Wood or plastic works nicely.
If you have a vice or an x/y milling vice, these will work nicely although you'll have to make some sort of insert so the gear rack can slide easily in the vice channel. Here again wood or plastic are your friends.

If you don't have a vice and you do have some wood and some nuts and bolts that fit the mounting holes in your vice, you can make a temporary jig with blocks of wood which have to be aligned such that the drill head is above the rack, doesn't crater into the mounting plate (unless your wise enough to put a spacer block under the rail) and constrains the rail in the x direction while allowing free movement in the y direction. It'll take some practice but once you get it, you can use the same setup for all the rack.

The process is fairly simple, you mark your first hole on the rack and then every succeeding hole, you measure 8 inches (what we used) from the center of that hole. This can be achieved by adding a guide which you line up the center of the hole you just drilled with the guide such that the drill bit is over the next spot and the last drill hole you made is 8 inches away.

Lastly, you clamp down the rack in the z direction such that frictional forces and the wood blocks help constrain the rack for drilling. Releasing the clamp slightly until the rack is movable along the y direction again allows you to position the rack for the next hole to be drilled.

This documentation is quite good. The procedure for joing rack pieces, and for making a rack-CR-tube assembly should also be shown. Other than that, this is pretty impressive - MJ.

Drill Prep
*Oil rails to allow smooth motion in the jig
*Position loose blocks of jig
*use c clamps to force the jig against table surface
*make sure the 6 foot rack is well supported and is level with the drill table
*use c clamps and a spacer if nessisary to keep the rail clamped in between the jig and the drill table. (otherwise the rail can lift up off the table and the holes drilled won't be straight)
*slightly loosen all the c clamps such that an oiled rail can move freely in the jig.
*Now tighten up the jig, while leaving the c clamp that prevents the rail from wandering up such that the rail can still move back and forth.
*Make a shallow test indention and make sure that the drill bit isn't wandering and the hole lays between the bottom of the teeth and the edge of the rail. If you make a mistake, favor the edge of th rail.
*lock the drill press, rail, etc in place and begin drilling slowly.

==The Table==
The table uses half inch bolts. In the future, use four bolts instead of three, put the legs at the end of the table, add legs that have feet that are wide on all sides on the bottom, and frankly, never use this table design. Its too heavy to manufacture by one person and doesn't have any outstanding benefits besides "life time design" which is a fancy way of saying the damn thing will never be moved.

[[File:Work in progress of torch table frame.JPG| 400px|sub]]
[[File:Work In Progress Torch Table Leg.JPG| 400px|sub]]
[[File:Work In Progress Joint.JPG| 400px|sub]]

<html>
<object width="400" height="300"><param name="allowfullscreen" value="true" /><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always" /><param name="movie" value="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=6967679&server=vimeo.com&show_title=1&show_byline=1&show_portrait=0&color=&fullscreen=1" /><embed src="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=6967679&server=vimeo.com&show_title=1&show_byline=1&show_portrait=0&color=&fullscreen=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" allowscriptaccess="always" width="400" height="300"></embed></object><a href="http://vimeo.com/6967679">Wiggly table</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user2426029">Lawrence Kincheloe</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.
</html>

To correct the wiggle, the legs were moved to the corners of the table.

==The 3/8 inch threaded rod==
{|
|-
|[[File:S5000537.JPG| 400px|sub]]
|Get all the 3/8 nuts lined up. This allows you to cut the rod to size and use the nut to reshape the cut threads.
|-
|[[File:Nuts all in a row.JPG| 400px|sub]]
|Mark the cut lines. I used a red grease market.
|-
|[[File:V-groove bearing on shaft.JPG| 400px|sub]]
|This is what we want. Note the grease marker, springs, and other odds and ends. The final arrangement of nuts and washers has changed significantly due to life having different constraints than blender models.
|}

==The Motors==
Quick note on corrections and motor info.
In the final design we switched from using nylon thrust bearings to ball bearing thrust bearings. This greatly decreased fristion under load and allowed the arms to work properly. The purpose of the arms is to allow the motors to slip before becoming damaged. Because of this modification, we redesigned the motor mount arrangement such that the motor mount had one metal washer and one nylon washer. This allowed for very good spacing between motor and mount plate. Another note, get screw heads that fit with the motor mount holes. While we are on the topic, also instead of using the arms which are nifty and cool, use one long moment arm instead. It will drop the number of thrust bearings required from 8 to 2. Those thrust bearings aren't cheap so be warned.

===Motor specs===
Axil 1/4 inch diameter, 7/8 inch in length

Holes are a size 10

{|
|-
|[[File:Tools ready to insert gear to shaft.JPG|400px]]
|To make one of the motor carriages, we used a steel gear head with a brass insert to get the inner diameter size we needed.
|-
|[[File:Squeeze brass into gear.JPG|400px]]
|Because the tolerances were so tight, we were lucky we chose a harder and a softer material, because this allows us to squeeze the brass spacer into the gear.
|-
|[[File:Gear and drill.JPG|400px]]
|Once you get the gear on the brass spacer, use a drill bit to deburr the inside of the brass spacer so the motor fits again.
|-
|[[File:Screws all in a row.JPG|400px]]
|We made a mistake on what screws to get for the motor. The heads of the screw were too large so we had to cut them down using a hand held grinder.
|-
|[[File:Grinded screws.JPG|400px]]
|And after some tough love.
|-
|[[File:All the parts for motor.JPG|400px]]
|Now on to putting it together.
|-
|[[File:Fuzzy pic of washers and screws.JPG|400px]]
|Put the screws into the motor mount holes and use them to mount the washers. In this iteration, we used two nylon thrust bearing and eight metal washers. The goal is to give a smooth slippery surface for the arms to swing on and the metal bearings are spacers essentially.
|-
|[[File:Its got bunny ears.JPG|400px]]
|And now put on the arms with another nylon bearing on the other side.
|-
|[[File:Ten and two.JPG|400px]]
|once you get this all in place, hold the screws in position and gently shove the motor plate on. If the holes aren't aligned, feel free to "liberally" drill/file them larger.
|-
|[[File:Finished motor assembly and carriage.JPG|400px]]
|Now screw it together and lets mount it to the carriage!
|-
|[[File:Motor with gear and spring.JPG|400px]]
|Notice the previously unmentioned spring dangling off the side... well on the motor mount construction section you drill a hole and that hole fits the spring, which you slip on. This is also a good time to put the gear on and tighten it down. Also, while your at it, slip in the two screws and slip on some more nylon washers.
|-
|[[File:Almost done with motor.JPG|400px]]
|Slip the arms onto the carriage and add some more nylon washers, nuts, etc.
|-
|[[File:Attaching the spring.JPG|400px]]
|Now to attach the spring. This part is somewhat tricky, first put the bolt through the 1 inch square tube, then add a nut to the end, with just enough space to slip on the spring. Then slip on the other end of the spring. It should stretch the spring but also be possible to attach by hand. If its too loose/tight it means that one of the drill holes are off or something is backwards, like the motor plate. Once you have it on, slip on another nut as best you can. Then use a screw driver to turn the bolt such that both nuts stay roughly close to the spring. The goal isn't to tighten anything down super hard, but to catch both nuts in the spring and keep the spring from, well springing loose.
|-
|[[File:Put it on the rail.JPG|400px]]
|With that all done, now you can put it on the rails. In theory to adjust the carriage and motors, you loosen and tighten the top and bottom 1 inch tube pieces until the bearings sit on the rail. Then adjust the distance of the bearings from the 1 inch tube pieces such that they sit comfortably on the rails. Also make sure the gear is making good contact with the gear rack and that it isn't rubbing against the rail. The gear can also move slightly back and forth on the motor shaft which might come in handy.
|}

==[http://www.flickr.com/photos/22516069@N06/sets/72157628502860073/ Photos of table, including measurements]==

==Calibration==
Test square looks good. Only problem was that the step size was supposed to be 1/4 of that.
[[File:First Square.JPG|400px]]
===EMC2 motor scale===
One problem turned out to be that the software was expecting half stepping and the stepper board was expecting eighths stepping.

According to the EMC2 Scale documentation, input scale = (# steps / degree precision of stepper motors) * (360 degrees/revolution * # revolutions / inch)

So our input scale was, 8 steps/ 1.8 degrees * 360 degrees/ 1 revolution * 1 revolution / 3.14 inch = 509.29581789. The 8 steps is set via the Xylotex jumper configuration on the motor controller(default is 8 steps), the 1.8 degrees comes from the stepper motor specifications, the 1 inch comes from the outside radius of the gear attached to the stepper motor, and the rest comes from unit conversions.

[http://wiki.linuxcnc.org/cgi-bin/emcinfo.pl?TweakingSoftwareStepGeneration Software step generation info]

===tightening bolt pattern===
Because we are tensioning bolts, bearings and rail all at the same time; it is a good idea to tighten the nuts in a particular order.
The reason is to give better distribution of force over the entire member. In general, pick a point that is affected by gravity near the top and tighten it such that it is finger loose. Then pick its farthest companion bolt, (usually diagonally from origional bolt) and tighten it finger tight as well. Continue tightening bolts that are holding weight due to gravity and continue to select the bolt that will most greatly effect its adherence to the surface. Usually this ends up with a top left, bottom right, top right bottom left pattern. Continue tightening in 1/3 turn increments until the proper tensioning has been achieved.
===Dealing with loose bolts===
One problem that always comes up when using nuts and bolts, is that they tend to come apart. They make special screws and nuts that have built in washers and beveled grooves which dig into the metal, but we didn't use any of these. Instead we used thread lock which can be used in conjunction with the above special parts for extra grip. We purchased Loctite® Threadlocker & Retaining Compound Loctite® 243 Threadlocker Adhesive, .34 oz, Blue, which is formulated to be removable with hand tools and can be applied to parts that have some oil on them. I didn't want to degrease every nut and bolt, and using a thread locker, means I just have to loosen the nut enough to apply the blue goop.
{| border="0"
|-
|[[File:Loctite 243 and rail.JPG|400px]]
|
|-
|[[File:Thread locker applied.JPG|400px]]
|When applying, try to keep the nozzle of the bottle away from metal as the blue thread fastener cures on metal contact. Doing so should help prevent nozzle blockage. There are more useful tips at the loctite website and the data sheet for this product.
|-
|[[File:Gooped up.JPG|400px]]
|Be careful how much you apply and on what size bolts. The smaller the bolt the more likely you'll strip the head. A good rule of thumb is to apply a drop and if the bolt comes loose again, apply more. Its easier to reapply than to have to notch the screw head because you've stripped the phillips head grooves.
|-
|}

===Shooting lasers for fun and calibration===
Using a laser to help characterize motion is a fast and easy way to figure out how level something is. It can be used to determine how flat a surface is by sprinkling salt on a table and using a refracting lens that produces a laser line to shine on the sheet sideways. The desired effect is to light up every grain of salt. Dips and bumps will show up as places where the salt crystals don't glow red.

It can also be used in a similar manner to characterize how smooth the motion of travel over the length of the table by using a similar method. Using a straight beam of laser light, shine it along the axis of motion, such that the beam hits a scattered field of salt. For ease of reading, you can brush away unlit salt. Ideally there should be several places along the beam that you can use to help increase accuracy. Now move the table slowly so as not to disrupt the salt crystals and watch for crystals blinking out. If you find them blinking out, move the gantry back and record the point on the table the curve is happening. This indicates a place where some sort of bend is. Continue measuring and detect if the salt crystals ever become lit again. If they do, then its a bowing distortion which needs to be flattened by pulling it tight. If ti doesn't come back, then its a curve and something is causing the path to diverge. It could be dirt between the rail and the table, or it could be something major like a misaligned screw hole.

<html>
<object width="400" height="300"><param name="allowfullscreen" value="true" /><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always" /><param name="movie" value="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=6967410&server=vimeo.com&show_title=1&show_byline=1&show_portrait=0&color=&fullscreen=1" /><embed src="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=6967410&server=vimeo.com&show_title=1&show_byline=1&show_portrait=0&color=&fullscreen=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" allowscriptaccess="always" width="400" height="300"></embed></object><a href="http://vimeo.com/6967410">Calibrating using a laser</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user2426029">Lawrence Kincheloe</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.
</html>

===Dynamic Calibration===

There is also the option of using a touch off pad that has a conductive probe or a switch that allows for the tool head to come down.
Here is a link [http://cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=36099 to an example.]
Another idea is to get a dual position momentary contact switch that is calibrated to be in the range of the optimal torch head distance. That way the calibration stick is depressed into the material and follows the contour of the material. the torch head stays between the two contact zones so it can back off if it begins to get out of bounds. The tolerance isn't great but would make an easy addition.

{{GVCS Footer}}

CNC Torch Table/Manufacturing Instructions

2011-12-20T21:19:09Z

Liseman:

{{GVCS Header}}

This table uses standard stock steel parts with no finishing besides the finishing that is required.

If you caught that, then you have two options. Find a local machine shop to cut out all that steel you just purchased or live with some inaccuracies which should be adjustable.

==Necessary Tools==
*Something to cut accurate holes with
*Something to cut 3/8 inch treaded rod, 1/8 inch hot rolled steel plate, 1 inch tubing, etc...

==Tools We Used==
*Drill Press
*Hand Drill
*Metal File
*Phillips Screw Driver
*Flat Head Screw Driver
*Wrench able to fit up to 5/8 inch bolt heads and down to 1/8 inch nuts
*3/8 inch drill bit
*1/2 inch drill bit
*10 gauge drill bit
*10 gauge tap
*bubble level
*Builders Square
*Tape Measure
*Saw Horse
*C Clamps; two of each 3 inch, 4 inch, 6 inch
*friction jaw clamps
*wood spacers

===Building a Jig===
Yes its a technical [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jig_(tool) term.]

For our purposes we need a reliable way to drill somewhat precise holes quickly.

To do this we need to constrain the rack in the x y and z direction during drilling but allow movement along the y axis to reposition the rack for the next hole. In this example, the direction along the length will be our y axis.

There are several products out there that will do what we want, but they all need to be modified slightly for our purposes.

For drilling the holes, you'll need a guide made out of something that won't mar the metal. Wood or plastic works nicely.
If you have a vice or an x/y milling vice, these will work nicely although you'll have to make some sort of insert so the gear rack can slide easily in the vice channel. Here again wood or plastic are your friends.

If you don't have a vice and you do have some wood and some nuts and bolts that fit the mounting holes in your vice, you can make a temporary jig with blocks of wood which have to be aligned such that the drill head is above the rack, doesn't crater into the mounting plate (unless your wise enough to put a spacer block under the rail) and constrains the rail in the x direction while allowing free movement in the y direction. It'll take some practice but once you get it, you can use the same setup for all the rack.

The process is fairly simple, you mark your first hole on the rack and then every succeeding hole, you measure 8 inches (what we used) from the center of that hole. This can be achieved by adding a guide which you line up the center of the hole you just drilled with the guide such that the drill bit is over the next spot and the last drill hole you made is 8 inches away.

Lastly, you clamp down the rack in the z direction such that frictional forces and the wood blocks help constrain the rack for drilling. Releasing the clamp slightly until the rack is movable along the y direction again allows you to position the rack for the next hole to be drilled.

This documentation is quite good. The procedure for joing rack pieces, and for making a rack-CR-tube assembly should also be shown. Other than that, this is pretty impressive - MJ.

Drill Prep
*Oil rails to allow smooth motion in the jig
*Position loose blocks of jig
*use c clamps to force the jig against table surface
*make sure the 6 foot rack is well supported and is level with the drill table
*use c clamps and a spacer if nessisary to keep the rail clamped in between the jig and the drill table. (otherwise the rail can lift up off the table and the holes drilled won't be straight)
*slightly loosen all the c clamps such that an oiled rail can move freely in the jig.
*Now tighten up the jig, while leaving the c clamp that prevents the rail from wandering up such that the rail can still move back and forth.
*Make a shallow test indention and make sure that the drill bit isn't wandering and the hole lays between the bottom of the teeth and the edge of the rail. If you make a mistake, favor the edge of th rail.
*lock the drill press, rail, etc in place and begin drilling slowly.

==The Table==
The table uses half inch bolts. In the future, use four bolts instead of three, put the legs at the end of the table, add legs that have feet that are wide on all sides on the bottom, and frankly, never use this table design. Its too heavy to manufacture by one person and doesn't have any outstanding benefits besides "life time design" which is a fancy way of saying the damn thing will never be moved.

[[File:Work in progress of torch table frame.JPG| 400px|sub]]
[[File:Work In Progress Torch Table Leg.JPG| 400px|sub]]
[[File:Work In Progress Joint.JPG| 400px|sub]]

<html>
<object width="400" height="300"><param name="allowfullscreen" value="true" /><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always" /><param name="movie" value="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=6967679&server=vimeo.com&show_title=1&show_byline=1&show_portrait=0&color=&fullscreen=1" /><embed src="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=6967679&server=vimeo.com&show_title=1&show_byline=1&show_portrait=0&color=&fullscreen=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" allowscriptaccess="always" width="400" height="300"></embed></object><a href="http://vimeo.com/6967679">Wiggly table</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user2426029">Lawrence Kincheloe</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.
</html>

To correct the wiggle, the legs were moved to the corners of the table.

==The 3/8 inch threaded rod==
{|
|-
|[[File:S5000537.JPG| 400px|sub]]
|Get all the 3/8 nuts lined up. This allows you to cut the rod to size and use the nut to reshape the cut threads.
|-
|[[File:Nuts all in a row.JPG| 400px|sub]]
|Mark the cut lines. I used a red grease market.
|-
|[[File:V-groove bearing on shaft.JPG| 400px|sub]]
|This is what we want. Note the grease marker, springs, and other odds and ends. The final arrangement of nuts and washers has changed significantly due to life having different constraints than blender models.
|}

==The Motors==
Quick note on corrections and motor info.
In the final design we switched from using nylon thrust bearings to ball bearing thrust bearings. This greatly decreased fristion under load and allowed the arms to work properly. The purpose of the arms is to allow the motors to slip before becoming damaged. Because of this modification, we redesigned the motor mount arrangement such that the motor mount had one metal washer and one nylon washer. This allowed for very good spacing between motor and mount plate. Another note, get screw heads that fit with the motor mount holes. While we are on the topic, also instead of using the arms which are nifty and cool, use one long moment arm instead. It will drop the number of thrust bearings required from 8 to 2. Those thrust bearings aren't cheap so be warned.

===Motor specs===
Axil 1/4 inch diameter, 7/8 inch in length

Holes are a size 10

{|
|-
|[[File:Tools ready to insert gear to shaft.JPG|400px]]
|To make one of the motor carriages, we used a steel gear head with a brass insert to get the inner diameter size we needed.
|-
|[[File:Squeeze brass into gear.JPG|400px]]
|Because the tolerances were so tight, we were lucky we chose a harder and a softer material, because this allows us to squeeze the brass spacer into the gear.
|-
|[[File:Gear and drill.JPG|400px]]
|Once you get the gear on the brass spacer, use a drill bit to deburr the inside of the brass spacer so the motor fits again.
|-
|[[File:Screws all in a row.JPG|400px]]
|We made a mistake on what screws to get for the motor. The heads of the screw were too large so we had to cut them down using a hand held grinder.
|-
|[[File:Grinded screws.JPG|400px]]
|And after some tough love.
|-
|[[File:All the parts for motor.JPG|400px]]
|Now on to putting it together.
|-
|[[File:Fuzzy pic of washers and screws.JPG|400px]]
|Put the screws into the motor mount holes and use them to mount the washers. In this iteration, we used two nylon thrust bearing and eight metal washers. The goal is to give a smooth slippery surface for the arms to swing on and the metal bearings are spacers essentially.
|-
|[[File:Its got bunny ears.JPG|400px]]
|And now put on the arms with another nylon bearing on the other side.
|-
|[[File:Ten and two.JPG|400px]]
|once you get this all in place, hold the screws in position and gently shove the motor plate on. If the holes aren't aligned, feel free to "liberally" drill/file them larger.
|-
|[[File:Finished motor assembly and carriage.JPG|400px]]
|Now screw it together and lets mount it to the carriage!
|-
|[[File:Motor with gear and spring.JPG|400px]]
|Notice the previously unmentioned spring dangling off the side... well on the motor mount construction section you drill a hole and that hole fits the spring, which you slip on. This is also a good time to put the gear on and tighten it down. Also, while your at it, slip in the two screws and slip on some more nylon washers.
|-
|[[File:Almost done with motor.JPG|400px]]
|Slip the arms onto the carriage and add some more nylon washers, nuts, etc.
|-
|[[File:Attaching the spring.JPG|400px]]
|Now to attach the spring. This part is somewhat tricky, first put the bolt through the 1 inch square tube, then add a nut to the end, with just enough space to slip on the spring. Then slip on the other end of the spring. It should stretch the spring but also be possible to attach by hand. If its too loose/tight it means that one of the drill holes are off or something is backwards, like the motor plate. Once you have it on, slip on another nut as best you can. Then use a screw driver to turn the bolt such that both nuts stay roughly close to the spring. The goal isn't to tighten anything down super hard, but to catch both nuts in the spring and keep the spring from, well springing loose.
|-
|[[File:Put it on the rail.JPG|400px]]
|With that all done, now you can put it on the rails. In theory to adjust the carriage and motors, you loosen and tighten the top and bottom 1 inch tube pieces until the bearings sit on the rail. Then adjust the distance of the bearings from the 1 inch tube pieces such that they sit comfortably on the rails. Also make sure the gear is making good contact with the gear rack and that it isn't rubbing against the rail. The gear can also move slightly back and forth on the motor shaft which might come in handy.
|}

==Photos of table, including measurements==
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==Calibration==
Test square looks good. Only problem was that the step size was supposed to be 1/4 of that.
[[File:First Square.JPG|400px]]
===EMC2 motor scale===
One problem turned out to be that the software was expecting half stepping and the stepper board was expecting eighths stepping.

According to the EMC2 Scale documentation, input scale = (# steps / degree precision of stepper motors) * (360 degrees/revolution * # revolutions / inch)

So our input scale was, 8 steps/ 1.8 degrees * 360 degrees/ 1 revolution * 1 revolution / 3.14 inch = 509.29581789. The 8 steps is set via the Xylotex jumper configuration on the motor controller(default is 8 steps), the 1.8 degrees comes from the stepper motor specifications, the 1 inch comes from the outside radius of the gear attached to the stepper motor, and the rest comes from unit conversions.

[http://wiki.linuxcnc.org/cgi-bin/emcinfo.pl?TweakingSoftwareStepGeneration Software step generation info]

===tightening bolt pattern===
Because we are tensioning bolts, bearings and rail all at the same time; it is a good idea to tighten the nuts in a particular order.
The reason is to give better distribution of force over the entire member. In general, pick a point that is affected by gravity near the top and tighten it such that it is finger loose. Then pick its farthest companion bolt, (usually diagonally from origional bolt) and tighten it finger tight as well. Continue tightening bolts that are holding weight due to gravity and continue to select the bolt that will most greatly effect its adherence to the surface. Usually this ends up with a top left, bottom right, top right bottom left pattern. Continue tightening in 1/3 turn increments until the proper tensioning has been achieved.
===Dealing with loose bolts===
One problem that always comes up when using nuts and bolts, is that they tend to come apart. They make special screws and nuts that have built in washers and beveled grooves which dig into the metal, but we didn't use any of these. Instead we used thread lock which can be used in conjunction with the above special parts for extra grip. We purchased Loctite® Threadlocker & Retaining Compound Loctite® 243 Threadlocker Adhesive, .34 oz, Blue, which is formulated to be removable with hand tools and can be applied to parts that have some oil on them. I didn't want to degrease every nut and bolt, and using a thread locker, means I just have to loosen the nut enough to apply the blue goop.
{| border="0"
|-
|[[File:Loctite 243 and rail.JPG|400px]]
|
|-
|[[File:Thread locker applied.JPG|400px]]
|When applying, try to keep the nozzle of the bottle away from metal as the blue thread fastener cures on metal contact. Doing so should help prevent nozzle blockage. There are more useful tips at the loctite website and the data sheet for this product.
|-
|[[File:Gooped up.JPG|400px]]
|Be careful how much you apply and on what size bolts. The smaller the bolt the more likely you'll strip the head. A good rule of thumb is to apply a drop and if the bolt comes loose again, apply more. Its easier to reapply than to have to notch the screw head because you've stripped the phillips head grooves.
|-
|}

===Shooting lasers for fun and calibration===
Using a laser to help characterize motion is a fast and easy way to figure out how level something is. It can be used to determine how flat a surface is by sprinkling salt on a table and using a refracting lens that produces a laser line to shine on the sheet sideways. The desired effect is to light up every grain of salt. Dips and bumps will show up as places where the salt crystals don't glow red.

It can also be used in a similar manner to characterize how smooth the motion of travel over the length of the table by using a similar method. Using a straight beam of laser light, shine it along the axis of motion, such that the beam hits a scattered field of salt. For ease of reading, you can brush away unlit salt. Ideally there should be several places along the beam that you can use to help increase accuracy. Now move the table slowly so as not to disrupt the salt crystals and watch for crystals blinking out. If you find them blinking out, move the gantry back and record the point on the table the curve is happening. This indicates a place where some sort of bend is. Continue measuring and detect if the salt crystals ever become lit again. If they do, then its a bowing distortion which needs to be flattened by pulling it tight. If ti doesn't come back, then its a curve and something is causing the path to diverge. It could be dirt between the rail and the table, or it could be something major like a misaligned screw hole.

<html>
<object width="400" height="300"><param name="allowfullscreen" value="true" /><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always" /><param name="movie" value="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=6967410&server=vimeo.com&show_title=1&show_byline=1&show_portrait=0&color=&fullscreen=1" /><embed src="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=6967410&server=vimeo.com&show_title=1&show_byline=1&show_portrait=0&color=&fullscreen=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" allowscriptaccess="always" width="400" height="300"></embed></object><a href="http://vimeo.com/6967410">Calibrating using a laser</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user2426029">Lawrence Kincheloe</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.
</html>

===Dynamic Calibration===

There is also the option of using a touch off pad that has a conductive probe or a switch that allows for the tool head to come down.
Here is a link [http://cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=36099 to an example.]
Another idea is to get a dual position momentary contact switch that is calibrated to be in the range of the optimal torch head distance. That way the calibration stick is depressed into the material and follows the contour of the material. the torch head stays between the two contact zones so it can back off if it begins to get out of bounds. The tolerance isn't great but would make an easy addition.

{{GVCS Footer}}

CNC Torch Table

2011-12-20T20:57:35Z

Liseman: /* Status */

{{GVCS Header}}

==Overview==
[[Image:TorchTable.png|thumb|400px|Torch Table]]

[[Image:CNC Torch Tablepic.jpg|thumb|right|400px]]

The CNC Torch Table is a table capable of cutting designs out of metal with a 2-axis torch controlled by computer.

The CNC Torch Table provides a quicker solution for cutting sheet metal, especially into intricate patterns that are difficult to cut by hand.

{{Video}}

==Description==

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</html>

==Product Ecology==
[[Image:2b-Genfabecology.png|600px|thumb|General Fabrication [[Product Ecology]]]]

'''Made with'''
*{{Induction Furnace}} - Steel
*{{Multimachine}} - Precision Guides, bearings

'''Creates'''
*{{Lifetrac}} - Plates, holes
*{{CEB}} - Holes
*[[QA Plates]]

See [[Product Ecologies]] for more information.

==Components==

*[[Motors]]
*[[XYZ Table]]
*Frame
*[[Torch]]

==Specifications==

==Status==
'''Prototype I'''
Currently being used in experimental production runs. Tighter integration of [[Digital Fabrication]] is being researched as is the software toolchain (which is a current bottleneck).

'''Prototype II'''

*First step: perfection of mechanical design for replicability to 1/32" over 4x8' area
*Need open source controller, end stops, and z height automation/detection.
*We could use existing structure, with modifications. Right now we use gear rack. We can simplify the carriage structure.
*If we want to go all out - we could use full gas flow control - but that is probably beyond the scope of the present program - as it would require expensive parts until we can manufacture them ourselves.
*Open source [[stepper motors]] would be a good addition - if we could find somebody to design/fab them - that would be great.
*Computer vision for fully automated cutting would be the last step.
*Next steps: stiffening frame design to accommodate router heads

=See Also=
*[[Torch Table Build Prototype 1 Completion]]
*[[Torch Table Specifications]]

*[http://openfarmtech.org/weblog/?p=1424 Blog Post]
*[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cnc Wikipedia: CNC]
*[[Torch]]

{{GVCS Footer}}

Jcc3inc's torch height control

2011-12-20T20:50:25Z

Liseman:

[http://www.cnczone.com/forums/cnc_plasma_waterjet_machines/47256-diy_torch_height_control.html Original thread]

From jcc3inc's post:
Torch Height Control (Version A) Explanation.

The reason a torch height control is needed is to keep the tip of the plasma torch at an optimum height above the workpiece during the cutting operation, so that the best quality cut is obtained. Other factors influencing cut quality are torch speed and plasma current as well as the condition of the torch consumables.

More sophisticated torch height controls can establish initial height over the workpiece before the cut starts (this pierce height is adjustable), and raise the torch after the cut has ended just before the machine traverses to the next start point (retract height).

This unit was used for controlling the plasma torch height above the workpiece during cutting. This specific unit was used with an optical tracing system. With very slight modification, it was also used with a CNC controller. Features which it has are:

1) Pushbutton start/stop of the cutting operation
2) Torch height control by measuring arc voltage. Height is front panel adjustable.
3) Height control disabled by arc voltage too low, too high, or externally disabled.
4) Manual up-down control of torch with LED indicators
5) Linear DC servo control of torch height

The circuit operation follows. See upper right of schematic.
The plasma arc voltage is sampled inside the plasma power supply. A 6K, 12W wirewound resistor is connected inside the power supply before the point where the high frequency start in added to the plasma torch lead. This goes to pin #4 of the shielded cable The workpiece ground is tied to pin #5 with the shield being pin#3. Pins #1 and 2 are used to turn on/off the plasma power supply by using the relay shown. All these components are in a shielded box to minimize RFI.

The voltage sample is reduced to 350/(6000 + 350) or .055 of the plasma voltage, so if the torch voltage is 100VDC, this sample is about -5.5 VDC. The sample goes thru a short shielded cable to the Voltage Amp, lower left corner. This amp outputs about 6.5 to 10V depending upon the plasma arc voltage. The voltage goes to the comparators; if the voltage falls within the right range AND the motor is enabled, the LM339 pin 14 will be at 0 volts, the 2N3638 will conduct, the gate of FET 2N5163 will be at zero enabling the Servo Amp to operate. Note that a positive voltage is supplied by the Voltage Amp to a 22K resistor while the Ht. Control feeds a negative voltage to a second 22K. These join at the summing point for the 741C amp of the Servo Amp. The Servo Amp causes the Torch Ht Motor to run so that the arc voltage will be equal and opposite the voltage at the Ht Control pot wiper.

The upper left connector brings in voltages and enabling voltages. Because we had +/- 20VDC available, it was used as well as +/- 12VDC . The system could be made to operate on +/- 12VDC. A start delay was used to keep the THC from operating for a short time after the Start button was pushed.

The upper right relay could be left out if other means were used to start the plasma. We used a Pittman motor-tach-gearbox to control the torch. With slight revisions, the Tach could be eliminated; running with a tach makes the circuit a bit easier to design, but adds to the cost.

I have attached pictures of the torch lifter and motor.dsc00

Pictures:

[[File:Hccircuit.jpg]]

[[File:Hc1.jpg]]

[[File:Hc2.jpg]]

[[File:Hc3.jpg]]

[[File:Hc4.jpg]]

Jcc3inc's torch height control

2011-12-20T20:50:05Z

Liseman:

[http://www.cnczone.com/forums/cnc_plasma_waterjet_machines/47256-diy_torch_height_control.html Original thread]

From jcc3inc's post:
Torch Height Control (Version A) Explanation.

The reason a torch height control is needed is to keep the tip of the plasma torch at an optimum height above the workpiece during the cutting operation, so that the best quality cut is obtained. Other factors influencing cut quality are torch speed and plasma current as well as the condition of the torch consumables.

More sophisticated torch height controls can establish initial height over the workpiece before the cut starts (this pierce height is adjustable), and raise the torch after the cut has ended just before the machine traverses to the next start point (retract height).

This unit was used for controlling the plasma torch height above the workpiece during cutting. This specific unit was used with an optical tracing system. With very slight modification, it was also used with a CNC controller. Features which it has are:

1) Pushbutton start/stop of the cutting operation
2) Torch height control by measuring arc voltage. Height is front panel adjustable.
3) Height control disabled by arc voltage too low, too high, or externally disabled.
4) Manual up-down control of torch with LED indicators
5) Linear DC servo control of torch height

The circuit operation follows. See upper right of schematic.
The plasma arc voltage is sampled inside the plasma power supply. A 6K, 12W wirewound resistor is connected inside the power supply before the point where the high frequency start in added to the plasma torch lead. This goes to pin #4 of the shielded cable The workpiece ground is tied to pin #5 with the shield being pin#3. Pins #1 and 2 are used to turn on/off the plasma power supply by using the relay shown. All these components are in a shielded box to minimize RFI.

The voltage sample is reduced to 350/(6000 + 350) or .055 of the plasma voltage, so if the torch voltage is 100VDC, this sample is about -5.5 VDC. The sample goes thru a short shielded cable to the Voltage Amp, lower left corner. This amp outputs about 6.5 to 10V depending upon the plasma arc voltage. The voltage goes to the comparators; if the voltage falls within the right range AND the motor is enabled, the LM339 pin 14 will be at 0 volts, the 2N3638 will conduct, the gate of FET 2N5163 will be at zero enabling the Servo Amp to operate. Note that a positive voltage is supplied by the Voltage Amp to a 22K resistor while the Ht. Control feeds a negative voltage to a second 22K. These join at the summing point for the 741C amp of the Servo Amp. The Servo Amp causes the Torch Ht Motor to run so that the arc voltage will be equal and opposite the voltage at the Ht Control pot wiper.

The upper left connector brings in voltages and enabling voltages. Because we had +/- 20VDC available, it was used as well as +/- 12VDC . The system could be made to operate on +/- 12VDC. A start delay was used to keep the THC from operating for a short time after the Start button was pushed.

The upper right relay could be left out if other means were used to start the plasma. We used a Pittman motor-tach-gearbox to control the torch. With slight revisions, the Tach could be eliminated; running with a tach makes the circuit a bit easier to design, but adds to the cost.

I have attached pictures of the torch lifter and motor.dsc00

Pictures:
[[File:Hccircuit.jpg]]

[[File:Hc1.jpg]]

[[File:Hc2.jpg]]

[[File:Hc3.jpg]]

[[File:Hc4.jpg]]

File:Hc4.jpg

2011-12-20T20:48:45Z

Liseman: jcc3inc's height control

jcc3inc's height control

File:Hc3.jpg

2011-12-20T20:48:27Z

Liseman: jcc3inc's height control

jcc3inc's height control

File:Hc2.jpg

2011-12-20T20:48:11Z

Liseman: jcc3inc's height control

jcc3inc's height control

File:Hc1.jpg

2011-12-20T20:47:53Z

Liseman: jcc3inc's height control

jcc3inc's height control

File:Hccircuit.jpg

2011-12-20T20:47:27Z

Liseman: schematic of jcc3inc's height control

schematic of jcc3inc's height control

Jcc3inc's torch height control

2011-12-20T20:46:20Z

Liseman:

[http://www.cnczone.com/forums/cnc_plasma_waterjet_machines/47256-diy_torch_height_control.html Original thread]

From jcc3inc's post:
Torch Height Control (Version A) Explanation.

The reason a torch height control is needed is to keep the tip of the plasma torch at an optimum height above the workpiece during the cutting operation, so that the best quality cut is obtained. Other factors influencing cut quality are torch speed and plasma current as well as the condition of the torch consumables.

More sophisticated torch height controls can establish initial height over the workpiece before the cut starts (this pierce height is adjustable), and raise the torch after the cut has ended just before the machine traverses to the next start point (retract height).

This unit was used for controlling the plasma torch height above the workpiece during cutting. This specific unit was used with an optical tracing system. With very slight modification, it was also used with a CNC controller. Features which it has are:

1) Pushbutton start/stop of the cutting operation
2) Torch height control by measuring arc voltage. Height is front panel adjustable.
3) Height control disabled by arc voltage too low, too high, or externally disabled.
4) Manual up-down control of torch with LED indicators
5) Linear DC servo control of torch height

The circuit operation follows. See upper right of schematic.
The plasma arc voltage is sampled inside the plasma power supply. A 6K, 12W wirewound resistor is connected inside the power supply before the point where the high frequency start in added to the plasma torch lead. This goes to pin #4 of the shielded cable The workpiece ground is tied to pin #5 with the shield being pin#3. Pins #1 and 2 are used to turn on/off the plasma power supply by using the relay shown. All these components are in a shielded box to minimize RFI.

The voltage sample is reduced to 350/(6000 + 350) or .055 of the plasma voltage, so if the torch voltage is 100VDC, this sample is about -5.5 VDC. The sample goes thru a short shielded cable to the Voltage Amp, lower left corner. This amp outputs about 6.5 to 10V depending upon the plasma arc voltage. The voltage goes to the comparators; if the voltage falls within the right range AND the motor is enabled, the LM339 pin 14 will be at 0 volts, the 2N3638 will conduct, the gate of FET 2N5163 will be at zero enabling the Servo Amp to operate. Note that a positive voltage is supplied by the Voltage Amp to a 22K resistor while the Ht. Control feeds a negative voltage to a second 22K. These join at the summing point for the 741C amp of the Servo Amp. The Servo Amp causes the Torch Ht Motor to run so that the arc voltage will be equal and opposite the voltage at the Ht Control pot wiper.

The upper left connector brings in voltages and enabling voltages. Because we had +/- 20VDC available, it was used as well as +/- 12VDC . The system could be made to operate on +/- 12VDC. A start delay was used to keep the THC from operating for a short time after the Start button was pushed.

The upper right relay could be left out if other means were used to start the plasma. We used a Pittman motor-tach-gearbox to control the torch. With slight revisions, the Tach could be eliminated; running with a tach makes the circuit a bit easier to design, but adds to the cost.

I have attached pictures of the torch lifter and motor.dsc00

Pictures:
[[File:Example.jpg]]
[[File:Example.jpg]]
[[File:Example.jpg]]
[[File:Example.jpg]]
[[File:Example.jpg]]

Jcc3inc's torch height control

2011-12-20T20:44:19Z

Liseman: Created page with "[http://www.cnczone.com/forums/cnc_plasma_waterjet_machines/47256-diy_torch_height_control.html Original thread] asdf"

[http://www.cnczone.com/forums/cnc_plasma_waterjet_machines/47256-diy_torch_height_control.html Original thread]

asdf

Sensing Distance from Work Piece

2011-12-20T20:43:03Z

Liseman: /* DIY, standalone sensor ideas */

Quality of product depends on the ability to detect the distance of the cutting tool from the Work Piece. The nature of this sensing problem changes depending on the cutting tool.

= Plasma Torch =

Here is a [http://www.centricut.com/New_Lessons/lessons_10.html great article] on controlling Torch to Work Distance. The quick story is that voltage between the torch and the work piece increases as the torch gets further away from the material. There is a discussion of building a z-controller [http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/fabrication-cnc-laser-waterjet-plasma-welding-fab/plasma-torch-voltage-132044/ here]-- some of the content may be helpful. From that is a potential [http://www.candcnc.com/ collaborator].

[http://wiki.linuxcnc.org/emcinfo.pl?Torch_Height_Control Documentation on torch height control in Linux CNC.] Centers around use of the [http://campbelldesigns.net/plasma-torch-height-control.php THC 300], which appears to no longer be available, and the [http://www.candcnc.com CandCNC] units. Note that CandCNC claims to only work with Mach3 and offers a [http://www.candcnc.com/LCTHC.html $250 stand-alone torch height controller].

= Acetylene Torch =

= Router =

= Notes from Tom =

== Plasma Technology ==
There is a lot of information about torch tables using plasma torches, but I haven't seen much about those using acetylene torches.

The articles about plasma torches seem consistent:

* Torch height should be regulated to optimize cut pattern:
** If too high or too low, the cut will have beveled edges
** Most torch head damage results from head too low
* Initial torch height should be 150% - 200% of height after cutting has been initiated.
* Height can be sensed by voltage of plasma arc: Torch height is proportional to arc voltage. Open circuit voltage is around 300vdc, cutting voltage ranges from 80vdc to 200vdc, depending on operating current and cutting height.

Relevant articles:

::[http://www.cnccontrols.com/thcontrol.asp| CamSoft Torch Height Controller]
::[http://www.hypertherm.com/en/Products/Controls_for_Automation/Torch_Height_Controls/sensor_thc.jsp| Hypertherm Torch Height Controller]

== Oxy Torch Technology ==
Torch tables using flame technology abound as well. They are called "Oxygen Fuel" tables, as they can use fuels other than acetylene.

Capacitive Height Controllers induce a high frequency signal between a sensor ring and the subject steel and measure the resulting capacitance. This capacitance is inversely proportional to the distance between the sensor ring and the steel surface. The controller uses this measurement to generate signals to control a motor to adjust the head height.

::[[image:TorchSensorRings.png|Sensor Rings]][[image:SensorRings.jpg|300px]]

Agelkom uses two rings to control head height for both plasma and oxy fuel torches:

* Plasma ring
** Dimensions: 34 mm ID, 47 mm OD
** Head height: 1.5 - 10 mm
* Fuel ring
** Dimensions: 50 mm ID, 69 mm OD
** Head height: 7 - 35 mm

Sensing rings must be electrically isolated from all conductive parts.

The Rutex controller employs two relays to drive a single motor to control the up/down positioning of the torch head as in the following diagram:

::[[image:RelayControlSchematic.png|Relay Control Schematic]]

Data sheets on a controllers for controlling the head height on an oxygen fuel system:

::[http://cnc4pc.com/Tech_Docs/Cap04_V2_Manual.pdf Agelkom CAP04 Torch Height Controller]
::[http://www.rutex.com/files/R982A.pdf Rutex Oxy Torch Height Control]

=DIY, standalone sensor ideas=
*[[Jcc3inc's torch height control]] (doesn't include initial height)
*'''ultrasonic distance sensing''': if mounted some distance from the torch, an [http://arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/Ping?from=Tutorial.UltrasoundSensor ultrasonic sensor controlled by an arduino] running the z-axis motor might be a low-cost way to control torch height. One might provide an input signal from the CNC-controlling computer (or cheat, and use a photocell aimed at torch location) to set pierce height differently than ongoing cut height. From [http://www.parallax.com/Portals/0/Downloads/docs/prod/acc/28015-PING-v1.6.pdf the ping sensor datasheet]:
**For accuracy, temperature compensation should occur.
**Maximum operating temperature of 70C.
**Minimum distance 2 cm (sensor should be mounted higher than tip of torch)
*'''Capacitive sensors''' have also been [http://www.interaccess.org/blog/?p=1886 interfaced with arduinos] and other microcontrollers.
*[http://www.ifm.com/ifmus/web/dsfs!KI5030.html industrial-grade, extreme environment capacitive sensors] are also available
*[http://www.tigoe.net/pcomp/code/circuits/motors/stepper-motors stepper motor control with an arduino]
*[http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/Labs/Servo servo motor control with an arduino]

Sensing Distance from Work Piece

2011-12-20T20:38:30Z

Liseman:

Quality of product depends on the ability to detect the distance of the cutting tool from the Work Piece. The nature of this sensing problem changes depending on the cutting tool.

= Plasma Torch =

Here is a [http://www.centricut.com/New_Lessons/lessons_10.html great article] on controlling Torch to Work Distance. The quick story is that voltage between the torch and the work piece increases as the torch gets further away from the material. There is a discussion of building a z-controller [http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/fabrication-cnc-laser-waterjet-plasma-welding-fab/plasma-torch-voltage-132044/ here]-- some of the content may be helpful. From that is a potential [http://www.candcnc.com/ collaborator].

[http://wiki.linuxcnc.org/emcinfo.pl?Torch_Height_Control Documentation on torch height control in Linux CNC.] Centers around use of the [http://campbelldesigns.net/plasma-torch-height-control.php THC 300], which appears to no longer be available, and the [http://www.candcnc.com CandCNC] units. Note that CandCNC claims to only work with Mach3 and offers a [http://www.candcnc.com/LCTHC.html $250 stand-alone torch height controller].

= Acetylene Torch =

= Router =

= Notes from Tom =

== Plasma Technology ==
There is a lot of information about torch tables using plasma torches, but I haven't seen much about those using acetylene torches.

The articles about plasma torches seem consistent:

* Torch height should be regulated to optimize cut pattern:
** If too high or too low, the cut will have beveled edges
** Most torch head damage results from head too low
* Initial torch height should be 150% - 200% of height after cutting has been initiated.
* Height can be sensed by voltage of plasma arc: Torch height is proportional to arc voltage. Open circuit voltage is around 300vdc, cutting voltage ranges from 80vdc to 200vdc, depending on operating current and cutting height.

Relevant articles:

::[http://www.cnccontrols.com/thcontrol.asp| CamSoft Torch Height Controller]
::[http://www.hypertherm.com/en/Products/Controls_for_Automation/Torch_Height_Controls/sensor_thc.jsp| Hypertherm Torch Height Controller]

== Oxy Torch Technology ==
Torch tables using flame technology abound as well. They are called "Oxygen Fuel" tables, as they can use fuels other than acetylene.

Capacitive Height Controllers induce a high frequency signal between a sensor ring and the subject steel and measure the resulting capacitance. This capacitance is inversely proportional to the distance between the sensor ring and the steel surface. The controller uses this measurement to generate signals to control a motor to adjust the head height.

::[[image:TorchSensorRings.png|Sensor Rings]][[image:SensorRings.jpg|300px]]

Agelkom uses two rings to control head height for both plasma and oxy fuel torches:

* Plasma ring
** Dimensions: 34 mm ID, 47 mm OD
** Head height: 1.5 - 10 mm
* Fuel ring
** Dimensions: 50 mm ID, 69 mm OD
** Head height: 7 - 35 mm

Sensing rings must be electrically isolated from all conductive parts.

The Rutex controller employs two relays to drive a single motor to control the up/down positioning of the torch head as in the following diagram:

::[[image:RelayControlSchematic.png|Relay Control Schematic]]

Data sheets on a controllers for controlling the head height on an oxygen fuel system:

::[http://cnc4pc.com/Tech_Docs/Cap04_V2_Manual.pdf Agelkom CAP04 Torch Height Controller]
::[http://www.rutex.com/files/R982A.pdf Rutex Oxy Torch Height Control]

=DIY, standalone sensor ideas=
*'''ultrasonic distance sensing''': if mounted some distance from the torch, an [http://arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/Ping?from=Tutorial.UltrasoundSensor ultrasonic sensor controlled by an arduino] running the z-axis motor might be a low-cost way to control torch height. One might provide an input signal from the CNC-controlling computer (or cheat, and use a photocell aimed at torch location) to set pierce height differently than ongoing cut height. From [http://www.parallax.com/Portals/0/Downloads/docs/prod/acc/28015-PING-v1.6.pdf the ping sensor datasheet]:
**For accuracy, temperature compensation should occur.
**Maximum operating temperature of 70C.
**Minimum distance 2 cm (sensor should be mounted higher than tip of torch)
*'''Capacitive sensors''' have also been [http://www.interaccess.org/blog/?p=1886 interfaced with arduinos] and other microcontrollers.
*[http://www.ifm.com/ifmus/web/dsfs!KI5030.html industrial-grade, extreme environment capacitive sensors] are also available
*[http://www.tigoe.net/pcomp/code/circuits/motors/stepper-motors stepper motor control with an arduino]
*[http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/Labs/Servo servo motor control with an arduino]

Sensing Distance from Work Piece

2011-12-20T20:34:58Z

Liseman:

Quality of product depends on the ability to detect the distance of the cutting tool from the Work Piece. The nature of this sensing problem changes depending on the cutting tool.

= Plasma Torch =

Here is a [http://www.centricut.com/New_Lessons/lessons_10.html great article] on controlling Torch to Work Distance. The quick story is that voltage between the torch and the work piece increases as the torch gets further away from the material. There is a discussion of building a z-controller [http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/fabrication-cnc-laser-waterjet-plasma-welding-fab/plasma-torch-voltage-132044/ here]-- some of the content may be helpful. From that is a potential [http://www.candcnc.com/ collaborator].

[http://wiki.linuxcnc.org/emcinfo.pl?Torch_Height_Control Documentation on torch height control in Linux CNC.] Centers around use of the [http://campbelldesigns.net/plasma-torch-height-control.php THC 300], which appears to no longer be available, and the [http://www.candcnc.com CandCNC] units. Note that CandCNC claims to only work with Mach3 and offers a [http://www.candcnc.com/LCTHC.html $250 stand-alone torch height controller].

= Acetylene Torch =

= Router =

= Notes from Tom =

== Plasma Technology ==
There is a lot of information about torch tables using plasma torches, but I haven't seen much about those using acetylene torches.

The articles about plasma torches seem consistent:

* Torch height should be regulated to optimize cut pattern:
** If too high or too low, the cut will have beveled edges
** Most torch head damage results from head too low
* Initial torch height should be 150% - 200% of height after cutting has been initiated.
* Height can be sensed by voltage of plasma arc: Torch height is proportional to arc voltage. Open circuit voltage is around 300vdc, cutting voltage ranges from 80vdc to 200vdc, depending on operating current and cutting height.

Relevant articles:

::[http://www.cnccontrols.com/thcontrol.asp| CamSoft Torch Height Controller]
::[http://www.hypertherm.com/en/Products/Controls_for_Automation/Torch_Height_Controls/sensor_thc.jsp| Hypertherm Torch Height Controller]

== Oxy Torch Technology ==
Torch tables using flame technology abound as well. They are called "Oxygen Fuel" tables, as they can use fuels other than acetylene.

Capacitive Height Controllers induce a high frequency signal between a sensor ring and the subject steel and measure the resulting capacitance. This capacitance is inversely proportional to the distance between the sensor ring and the steel surface. The controller uses this measurement to generate signals to control a motor to adjust the head height.

::[[image:TorchSensorRings.png|Sensor Rings]][[image:SensorRings.jpg|300px]]

Agelkom uses two rings to control head height for both plasma and oxy fuel torches:

* Plasma ring
** Dimensions: 34 mm ID, 47 mm OD
** Head height: 1.5 - 10 mm
* Fuel ring
** Dimensions: 50 mm ID, 69 mm OD
** Head height: 7 - 35 mm

Sensing rings must be electrically isolated from all conductive parts.

The Rutex controller employs two relays to drive a single motor to control the up/down positioning of the torch head as in the following diagram:

::[[image:RelayControlSchematic.png|Relay Control Schematic]]

Data sheets on a controllers for controlling the head height on an oxygen fuel system:

::[http://cnc4pc.com/Tech_Docs/Cap04_V2_Manual.pdf Agelkom CAP04 Torch Height Controller]
::[http://www.rutex.com/files/R982A.pdf Rutex Oxy Torch Height Control]

=DIY, standalone sensor ideas=
*'''ultrasonic distance sensing''': if mounted some distance from the torch, an [http://arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/Ping?from=Tutorial.UltrasoundSensor ultrasonic sensor controlled by an arduino] running the z-axis motor might be a low-cost way to control torch height. One might provide an input signal from the CNC-controlling computer (or cheat, and use a photocell aimed at torch location) to set pierce height differently than ongoing cut height. From [http://www.parallax.com/Portals/0/Downloads/docs/prod/acc/28015-PING-v1.6.pdf the ping sensor datasheet]:
**For accuracy, temperature compensation should occur.
**Maximum operating temperature of 70C.
**Minimum distance 2 cm (sensor should be mounted higher than tip of torch)
*'''Capacitive sensors''' have also been interfaced with arduinos and other microcontrollers.
*[http://www.ifm.com/ifmus/web/dsfs!KI5030.html industrial-grade, extreme environment capacitive sensors] are also available
*[http://www.tigoe.net/pcomp/code/circuits/motors/stepper-motors stepper motor control with an arduino]
*[http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/Labs/Servo servo motor control with an arduino]

Sensing Distance from Work Piece

2011-12-20T20:18:08Z

Liseman:

Sensing Distance from Work Piece

2011-12-20T19:55:12Z

Liseman: /* Plasma Torch */

CNC Circuit Mill

2011-12-20T18:43:20Z

Liseman: /* See Also */

{{GVCS Header}}

[[Image:CNC_Snaplock.jpg|thumb|400px|[[SnapLock]] CNC Circuit Mill]]

==Overview==

{{CNC Circuit Mill}} enables automated production of electronic circuit boards. As a [[GVCS]] technology it enables automation functionality.

{{Video}}

==Detailed Description==

Printed circuit board milling is the process of removing areas of copper from a sheet of printed circuit board material to recreate the pads, signal traces and structures according to patterns from a digital circuit board plan known as a layout file. Similar to the more common and well known chemical PCB etch process, the PCB milling process is subtractive: material is removed to create the electrical isolation and ground planes required. However, unlike the chemical etch process, PCB milling is typically a non-chemical process and as such it can be completed in a typical office or lab environment without exposure to hazardous chemicals. High quality circuit boards can be produced using either process. In the case of PCB milling, the quality of a circuit board is chiefly determined by the system's true, or weighted, milling accuracy and control as well as the condition (sharpness, temper) of the milling bits and their respective feed/rotational speeds. By contrast, in the chemical etch process, the quality of a circuit board depends on the accuracy and/or quality of the photomasking and the state of the etching chemicals.

==Product Ecology==

[[Image:2b-Genfabecology.png|thumb|600px|CNC Circuit Mill [[Product Ecology]]]]

'''Uses'''
*{{Lasercutter}} - Structure
*{{Furnace}} - Router, spindle
*{{Multimachine}} - spindles
*{{Motors}} - XYZ articulation
*{{Wire Mill}} - Wires
*{{Universal Power Supply}} - Power

'''Creates'''
*Circuit boards
*{{Universal Power Supply}} boards
*[[Controllers]]

See [[Product Ecologies]] for more information.

==Components==

*XYZ Table
*Motors
*Wires
*Controller
*Router
*Vacuum

==Status==

The CNC Circuit mill is currently in the [[CNC Circuit Mill/Research Development|Research Phases of Product Development]].

==See Also==
*[[CNC Circuit Mill Discussion]]
*[[CNC Circuit Mill Concept]]
*[[Stepper Motor]]
*[http://blog.ponoko.com/2011/07/15/pricing-guide-to-diy-cnc-mill-and-router-kits/ Comparison of CNC kits]
*[[Mantis 9]]
*[[Snaplock]]
*[[Shapeoko]]

*[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Printed_circuit_board_milling Wikipedia: Printed Circuit Board Milling]

[[Category:Circuit Board Fabrication]]

{{GVCS Footer}}

Shapeoko

2011-12-20T18:41:32Z

Liseman: Created page with "Shapeoko utilizes [http://makerslide.com Makerslide], a new v rail in a standard extrusion profile. [http://www.shapeoko.com/downloads Bill of materials] published; [http://www..."

Shapeoko utilizes [http://makerslide.com Makerslide], a new v rail in a standard extrusion profile.

[http://www.shapeoko.com/downloads Bill of materials] published; [http://www.shapeoko.com/downloads cost for parts] ~ $300-350.

Mantis Machine 9

2011-12-20T18:31:11Z

Liseman:

Complete, $100 DIY CNC mill, including $20 spindle, including drivers

http://makeyourbot.org/start

Is this a suitable driver to replace the Xylotex $400 controller?

Another link to FabLab 2.0 :

Shows CNC machine, $300 in parts.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ELijl7mhOus&feature=related

[http://trackhacker.com/archives/430 Up-to-date bill of materials for a Mantis Machine 9, including hand-cut frame.] Real cost estimate ~$350

[[Category:Notes]]
[[Category:Links]]

Mantis Machine 9

2011-12-20T18:30:38Z

Liseman:

CNC Circuit Mill

2011-12-20T18:29:42Z

Liseman: /* See Also */

{{GVCS Header}}

[[Image:CNC_Snaplock.jpg|thumb|400px|[[SnapLock]] CNC Circuit Mill]]

==Overview==

{{CNC Circuit Mill}} enables automated production of electronic circuit boards. As a [[GVCS]] technology it enables automation functionality.

{{Video}}

==Detailed Description==

Printed circuit board milling is the process of removing areas of copper from a sheet of printed circuit board material to recreate the pads, signal traces and structures according to patterns from a digital circuit board plan known as a layout file. Similar to the more common and well known chemical PCB etch process, the PCB milling process is subtractive: material is removed to create the electrical isolation and ground planes required. However, unlike the chemical etch process, PCB milling is typically a non-chemical process and as such it can be completed in a typical office or lab environment without exposure to hazardous chemicals. High quality circuit boards can be produced using either process. In the case of PCB milling, the quality of a circuit board is chiefly determined by the system's true, or weighted, milling accuracy and control as well as the condition (sharpness, temper) of the milling bits and their respective feed/rotational speeds. By contrast, in the chemical etch process, the quality of a circuit board depends on the accuracy and/or quality of the photomasking and the state of the etching chemicals.

==Product Ecology==

[[Image:2b-Genfabecology.png|thumb|600px|CNC Circuit Mill [[Product Ecology]]]]

'''Uses'''
*{{Lasercutter}} - Structure
*{{Furnace}} - Router, spindle
*{{Multimachine}} - spindles
*{{Motors}} - XYZ articulation
*{{Wire Mill}} - Wires
*{{Universal Power Supply}} - Power

'''Creates'''
*Circuit boards
*{{Universal Power Supply}} boards
*[[Controllers]]

See [[Product Ecologies]] for more information.

==Components==

*XYZ Table
*Motors
*Wires
*Controller
*Router
*Vacuum

==Status==

The CNC Circuit mill is currently in the [[CNC Circuit Mill/Research Development|Research Phases of Product Development]].

==See Also==
*[[CNC Circuit Mill Discussion]]
*[[CNC Circuit Mill Concept]]
*[[Stepper Motor]]
*[[Mantis 9]]
*[[Snaplock]]
*[[Shapeoko]]

*[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Printed_circuit_board_milling Wikipedia: Printed Circuit Board Milling]

[[Category:Circuit Board Fabrication]]

{{GVCS Footer}}

Mantis Machine 9

2011-12-20T18:28:40Z

Liseman:

Complete, $100 DIY CNC mill, including $20 spindle, including drivers

http://makeyourbot.org/start

Is this a suitable driver to replace the Xylotex $400 controller?

Another link to FabLab 2.0 :

Shows CNC machine, $300 in parts.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ELijl7mhOus&feature=related

Up-to-date bill of materials for a Mantis Machine 9, including hand-cut frame: http://trackhacker.com/archives/430

[[Category:Notes]]
[[Category:Links]]

Mantis Machine 9

2011-12-20T18:27:56Z

Liseman:

Complete, $100 DIY CNC mill, including $20 spindle, including drivers

http://makeyourbot.org/start

Is this a suitable driver to replace the Xylotex $400 controller?

Another link to FabLab 2.0 :

Shows CNC machine, $300 in parts.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ELijl7mhOus&feature=related

[Up-to-date bill of materials for a Mantis Machine 9, including hand-cut frame http://trackhacker.com/archives/430 ]

[[Category:Notes]]
[[Category:Links]]

Luke Iseman Dedicated Project Visit Application

2011-12-06T01:38:30Z

Liseman:

'''Name:''' Luke Iseman

'''Age:''' 28

'''Gender:''' Male

'''Location:''' Austin, Texas (back to Kenya in mid-January)

'''Contact Info:''' phone (512)466-4055 , email luke@re-char.com , skype liseman .

'''Photo:''' [http://lukeiseman.com/luke.jpg here]

'''Resume / Schools:''' [http://www.linkedin.com/in/lukeiseman on LinkedIn profile]

'''References:'''

Jason Aramburu, CEO re:char. jason@re-char.com , (210)872-0632. Jason currently works with me at re:char.

Stephen Merritt, owner Dirtnail Pedicabs. merritt87@gmail.com, (512)844-4444. Stephen purchased Dirtnail Pedicabs from me.

Mia Iseman, younger sister. mia.iseman@gmail.com , (512)608-3295.

'''Why I'm Interested:'''

I've followed OSE since reading about the project in Make Magazine. I've been building my own open-source projects for years, and I'm excited about the potential to deploy several OSE projects in Kenya and elsewhere.

'''Practical Skills:'''

Appropriate Technology: I run the technology arm of re:char, creating carbon-negative products for sale to Kenyan farmers that pay for themselves within 12 months.

Open Source Electronics: I invented the [http://garduino.dirtnail.com Garduino], an arduino-based garden manager.

Entrepreneurship: I have started several businesses, including [http://dirtcab.dirtnail.com Dirtnail Pedicabs], a fleet of 25 bicycle taxis I built myself.

Metalworking: most skilled at wire feed, I have utilized all major welding styles. Additionally, I have run several different styles of plasma CNCs and am an amateur blacksmith.

Computers: expert in computer hardware and software troubleshooting, quite proficient in a variety of programming techniques (especially PHP and Javascript utilized with web services), skilled in CAD (SketchUp preferred), etc.

'''Things I have built:'''

In addition to remodeling a 1930s house, I have [http://www.instructables.com/member/liseman/ some of my projects on Instructables].

'''Particularly useful to OSE:'''

Welding, DIY experience, entrepreneurial energy.

'''Organizational skills / experience:'''

I have recruited, worked on, and occasionally managed teams throughout my career, from classrooms at Wharton to pedicabbers on the streets of Austin.

'''Cooking''' Yes, but not particularly well. I can cover my food expenses.

'''Resources to support myself?''' Yes.

'''Conditions / disabilities?''' None affecting ability to do work or exercise sound judgment.

'''Easy to get along with?''' Yes: I'm the oldest of 5 siblings, and they all still talk to me:)

'''Strong ideological views?''' Yes, but I believe in polite discussion rather than radical imposition.

'''Team player?''' Yes.

'''Smoke?''' No.

'''Dietary restrictions?''' None.

'''Transportation?''' Yes. I can have a car left on-site or not, at your discretion.

'''Wiki familiarity?''' Yes.

'''Pioneering, rough conditions, taking responsibility to create my own environment?''' Absolutely.

'''Availability:''' 12/8.

'''Options after month?''' Yes.

'''Goals / Deliverables:'''

I want to document the current state of the torch table for the first week, implement any readily available improvements the second week, and document a full deployment from scratch to finish upon my return to Kenya. Additionally, I will evaluate both Lifetrac and compressed earth bricks as possible technologies to deploy at our 6-acre demo site in 2012. The only resources I need to accomplish this are materials for any desired changes to the torch table. My project will be a success when I hear of at least 3 other people building a torch table from my documentation.

'''Willing to publish all results of work openly?''' Yes; I do this already.

'''What I expect to get personally?''' An adventure and an opportunity to learn more about DIY sustainability.

'''Visit prior?''' Yes.

'''3 interesting things about myself:'''

1. I've been to 25+ countries, and I wrote [http://www.amazon.com/Becoming-Traveled-Luke-Iseman/dp/1453840133 a book about my travels].

2. I'm building [http://www.flickr.com/photos/22516069@N06/sets/72157628249129435 an off-grid house out of a shipping container].

3. Several of my projects have [http://lukeiseman.com/me resulted in controversy].

'''3 things about living with me:'''

1. I sleep very soundly.

2. I have a distinctive, loud laugh.

3. I put copious amounts of Tabasco sauce on most foods.

'''Camera?''' I will bring several video and still cameras.

Luke Iseman Dedicated Project Visit Application

2011-12-06T01:37:39Z

Liseman:

'''Name:''' Luke Iseman

'''Age:''' 28

'''Gender:''' Male

'''Location:''' Austin, Texas (back to Kenya in mid-January)

'''Contact Info:''' phone (512)466-4055 , email luke@re-char.com , skype liseman .

'''Photo:''' [http://lukeiseman.com/luke.jpg here]

'''Resume / Schools:''' [http://www.linkedin.com/in/lukeiseman on LinkedIn profile]

'''References:'''

Jason Aramburu, CEO re:char. jason@re-char.com , (210)872-0632. Jason currently works with me at re:char.

Stephen Merritt, owner Dirtnail Pedicabs. merritt87@gmail.com, (512)844-4444. Stephen purchased Dirtnail Pedicabs from me.

Mia Iseman, younger sister. mia.iseman@gmail.com , (512)608-3295.

'''Why I'm Interested:'''

I've followed OSE since reading about the project in Make Magazine. I've been building my own open-source projects for years, and I'm excited about the potential to deploy several OSE projects in Kenya and elsewhere.

'''Practical Skills:'''

Appropriate Technology: I run the technology arm of re:char, creating carbon-negative products for sale to Kenyan farmers that pay for themselves within 12 months.

Open Source Electronics: I invented the [http://garduino.dirtnail.com Garduino], an arduino-based garden manager.

Entrepreneurship: I have started several businesses, including [http://dirtcab.dirtnail.com Dirtnail Pedicabs], a fleet of 25 bicycle taxis I built myself.

Metalworking: most skilled at wire feed, I have utilized all major welding styles. Additionally, I have run several different styles of plasma CNCs and am an amateur blacksmith.

Computers: expert in computer hardware and software troubleshooting, quite proficient in a variety of programming techniques (especially PHP and Javascript utilized with web services), skilled in CAD (SketchUp preferred), etc.

'''Things I have built:'''

In addition to remodeling a 1930s house, I have [http://www.instructables.com/member/liseman/ some of my projects on Instructables].

'''Particularly useful to OSE:'''

Welding, DIY experience, entrepreneurial energy.

'''Organizational skills / experience:'''

I have recruited, worked on, and occasionally managed teams throughout my career, from classrooms at Wharton to pedicabbers on the streets of Austin.

'''Cooking''' Yes, but not particularly well. I can cover my food expenses.

'''Resources to support myself?''' Yes.

'''Conditions / disabilities?''' None affecting ability to do work or exercise sound judgment.

'''Easy to get along with?''' Yes: I'm the oldest of 5 siblings, and they all still talk to me:)

'''Strong ideological views?''' Yes, but I believe in polite discussion rather than radical imposition.

'''Team player?''' Yes.

'''Smoke?''' No.

'''Dietary restrictions?''' None.

'''Transportation?''' Yes. I can have a car left on-site or not, at your discretion.

'''Wiki familiarity?''' Yes.

'''Pioneering, rough conditions, taking responsibility to create my own environment?''' Absolutely.

'''Availability:''' 12/8.

'''Options after month?''' Yes.

'''Goals / Deliverables:''' I want to document the current state of the torch table for the first week, implement any readily available improvements the second week, and document a full deployment from scratch to finish upon my return to Kenya. Additionally, I will evaluate both Lifetrac and compressed earth bricks as possible technologies to deploy at our 6-acre demo site in 2012. The only resources I need to accomplish this are materials for any desired changes to the torch table. My project will be a success when I hear of at least 3 other people building a torch table from my documentation.

'''Willing to publish all results of work openly?''' Yes; I do this already.

'''What I expect to get personally?''' An adventure and an opportunity to learn more about DIY sustainability.

'''Visit prior?''' Yes.

'''3 interesting things about myself:'''
1. I've been to 25+ countries, and I wrote [http://www.amazon.com/Becoming-Traveled-Luke-Iseman/dp/1453840133 a book about my travels].

2. I'm building [http://www.flickr.com/photos/22516069@N06/sets/72157628249129435 an off-grid house out of a shipping container].

3. Several of my projects have [http://lukeiseman.com/me resulted in controversy].

'''3 things about living with me:'''

1. I sleep very soundly.

2. I have a distinctive, loud laugh.

3. I put copious amounts of Tabasco sauce on most foods.

'''Camera?''' I will bring several video and still cameras.

Luke Iseman Dedicated Project Visit Application

2011-12-06T01:04:46Z

Liseman:

'''Name:''' Luke Iseman

'''Age:''' 28

'''Gender:''' Male

'''Location:''' Austin, Texas (back to Kenya in mid-January)

'''Contact Info:''' phone (512)466-4055 , email luke@re-char.com , skype liseman .

'''Photo:''' [http://lukeiseman.com/luke.jpg here]

'''Resume / Schools:''' [http://www.linkedin.com/in/lukeiseman on LinkedIn profile]

'''References:'''

Jason Aramburu, CEO re:char. jason@re-char.com , (210)872-0632. Jason currently works with me at re:char.

Stephen Merritt, owner Dirtnail Pedicabs. merritt87@gmail.com, (512)844-4444. Stephen purchased Dirtnail Pedicabs from me.

Mia Iseman, younger sister. mia.iseman@gmail.com , (512)608-3295.

'''Why I'm Interested:'''

I've followed OSE since reading about the project in Make Magazine. I've been building my own open-source projects for years, and I'm excited about the potential to deploy several OSE projects in Kenya and elsewhere.

'''Practical Skills:'''

practical skills you may have - from agriculture, workshop, industry, organizing, hands-on, CAD, manufacturing, computer skills, etc.
Have you designed and built or produced anything for your own use?
Which of your skills are particularly relevant towards creating the GVCS? Please view the TED Talk and recent update for the latest on our approach and on-the-ground work.
Do you have any organizational skills and experience?
Can you cook? Can you cover your food expenses?
Do you have resources to support yourself while volunteering with us?
Do you have any medical, physical, or psychological conditions or disabilities which may affect your ability to do physical work?
Do you have any emotional, psychological, or mental conditions which may affect your ability to act with composure and good judgment?
Are you easy to get along with and can you get along with other people?
Do you have strong ideological views (political, religious, elitist, feminist, etc.)?
Are you a team player - or someone who understands that the work we do at Factor e Farm is for a much greater purpose than for our own self-gratification, indulgence, or agenda? This implies a level of maturity in the participant which allows one to remain not only aligned with the vision, but also to remain motivated in this work.
Do you smoke?
Do you have any dietary restrictions? Will you eat meat raised at our farm?
Do you have transportation? Will you be arriving by car and leaving the car on-site?
Documentation is key to moving our work forward. Are you familiar with using a Wiki?
Please produce a 1-3 minute video introduction to yourself and upload it to a video-sharing site of your choice for our review. See sample video from WilliamCleaver from a former application.
Can you work well as a pioneer under rough conditions, by taking the responsibility to create your own environment?
When would you be available for a Dedicated Project Visit?
If you are accepted and things don't work out, do you have other options to pursue after the month?
List your goals and deliverables for your Dedicated Project Visit, breaking it up by each of the four weeks. Please write a one-page proposal brief summarizing what you would like to do, how you would accomplish it, and what resources you would need to do so. Include a budget as necessary. We are willing to pay for prototyping materials.
Are you willing to publish all the results of your work openly, and to make any of your contributions open source, consistent with our goal of creating Distributive Enterprise?
How does your proposed work contribute to the creation of the GVCS?
What are the metrics by which you could assess the success of your work? (prototypes built, documentation produced, resources or funding raised, infrastructure built, food provided, contribution to the community provided, True Fans recruited, etc.) Note that we are looking more for tangible and explicit proposals and results as opposed to 'I will help with whatever is needed' or other generalizations - unless we agree otherwise.
What do you expect personally to get out of your Dedicated Project Visit?
Can you visit us prior to your Dedicated Project Visit?
Please share three interesting things about yourself.
Please share three things you think people should know about living with you.
Can you bring a digital camera or phone camera for documenting your work?
Any other concerns or considerations?
Please fill out the Team Culturing short survey if you haven't done so already.
Please post your complete survey on this wiki by starting a page - titled 'Your Name Dedicated Project Visit Application'. Please embed your picture and video. See the wiki editing Instructions if you have any questions.

Luke Iseman Dedicated Project Visit Application

2011-12-06T00:55:05Z

Liseman:

Name: Luke Iseman

Age: 28

Gender: Male

Location: Austin, Texas (back to Kenya in mid-January)

Contact Info: phone (512)466-4055 , email luke@re-char.com , skype liseman .

Photo: [http://lukeiseman.com/luke.jpg here]

Resume / Schools: [http://www.linkedin.com/in/lukeiseman on LinkedIn profile]

References:

Please attach a resume or provide a list of work experience, both paid and volunteer.
Please provide 3 References with email and phone number - 2 work references, 1 personal reference
How did you hear about the program? Why are you applying for a Dedicated Project Visit? Why are you interested in our work?
Describe practical skills you may have - from agriculture, workshop, industry, organizing, hands-on, CAD, manufacturing, computer skills, etc.
Have you designed and built or produced anything for your own use?
Which of your skills are particularly relevant towards creating the GVCS? Please view the TED Talk and recent update for the latest on our approach and on-the-ground work.
Do you have any organizational skills and experience?
Can you cook? Can you cover your food expenses?
Do you have resources to support yourself while volunteering with us?
Do you have any medical, physical, or psychological conditions or disabilities which may affect your ability to do physical work?
Do you have any emotional, psychological, or mental conditions which may affect your ability to act with composure and good judgment?
Are you easy to get along with and can you get along with other people?
Do you have strong ideological views (political, religious, elitist, feminist, etc.)?
Are you a team player - or someone who understands that the work we do at Factor e Farm is for a much greater purpose than for our own self-gratification, indulgence, or agenda? This implies a level of maturity in the participant which allows one to remain not only aligned with the vision, but also to remain motivated in this work.
Do you smoke?
Do you have any dietary restrictions? Will you eat meat raised at our farm?
Do you have transportation? Will you be arriving by car and leaving the car on-site?
Documentation is key to moving our work forward. Are you familiar with using a Wiki?
Please produce a 1-3 minute video introduction to yourself and upload it to a video-sharing site of your choice for our review. See sample video from WilliamCleaver from a former application.
Can you work well as a pioneer under rough conditions, by taking the responsibility to create your own environment?
When would you be available for a Dedicated Project Visit?
If you are accepted and things don't work out, do you have other options to pursue after the month?
List your goals and deliverables for your Dedicated Project Visit, breaking it up by each of the four weeks. Please write a one-page proposal brief summarizing what you would like to do, how you would accomplish it, and what resources you would need to do so. Include a budget as necessary. We are willing to pay for prototyping materials.
Are you willing to publish all the results of your work openly, and to make any of your contributions open source, consistent with our goal of creating Distributive Enterprise?
How does your proposed work contribute to the creation of the GVCS?
What are the metrics by which you could assess the success of your work? (prototypes built, documentation produced, resources or funding raised, infrastructure built, food provided, contribution to the community provided, True Fans recruited, etc.) Note that we are looking more for tangible and explicit proposals and results as opposed to 'I will help with whatever is needed' or other generalizations - unless we agree otherwise.
What do you expect personally to get out of your Dedicated Project Visit?
Can you visit us prior to your Dedicated Project Visit?
Please share three interesting things about yourself.
Please share three things you think people should know about living with you.
Can you bring a digital camera or phone camera for documenting your work?
Any other concerns or considerations?
Please fill out the Team Culturing short survey if you haven't done so already.
Please post your complete survey on this wiki by starting a page - titled 'Your Name Dedicated Project Visit Application'. Please embed your picture and video. See the wiki editing Instructions if you have any questions.

Luke Iseman Dedicated Project Visit Application

2011-12-06T00:54:46Z

Liseman: Created page with "Name: Luke Iseman Age: 28 Gender: Male Location: Austin, Texas (back to Kenya in mid-January) Contact Info: phone (512)466-4055 , email luke@re-char.com , skype liseman . Photo: ..."

Name: Luke Iseman
Age: 28
Gender: Male
Location: Austin, Texas (back to Kenya in mid-January)
Contact Info: phone (512)466-4055 , email luke@re-char.com , skype liseman .
Photo: [http://lukeiseman.com/luke.jpg here]
Resume / Schools: [http://www.linkedin.com/in/lukeiseman on LinkedIn profile]
References:

Please attach a resume or provide a list of work experience, both paid and volunteer.
Please provide 3 References with email and phone number - 2 work references, 1 personal reference
How did you hear about the program? Why are you applying for a Dedicated Project Visit? Why are you interested in our work?
Describe practical skills you may have - from agriculture, workshop, industry, organizing, hands-on, CAD, manufacturing, computer skills, etc.
Have you designed and built or produced anything for your own use?
Which of your skills are particularly relevant towards creating the GVCS? Please view the TED Talk and recent update for the latest on our approach and on-the-ground work.
Do you have any organizational skills and experience?
Can you cook? Can you cover your food expenses?
Do you have resources to support yourself while volunteering with us?
Do you have any medical, physical, or psychological conditions or disabilities which may affect your ability to do physical work?
Do you have any emotional, psychological, or mental conditions which may affect your ability to act with composure and good judgment?
Are you easy to get along with and can you get along with other people?
Do you have strong ideological views (political, religious, elitist, feminist, etc.)?
Are you a team player - or someone who understands that the work we do at Factor e Farm is for a much greater purpose than for our own self-gratification, indulgence, or agenda? This implies a level of maturity in the participant which allows one to remain not only aligned with the vision, but also to remain motivated in this work.
Do you smoke?
Do you have any dietary restrictions? Will you eat meat raised at our farm?
Do you have transportation? Will you be arriving by car and leaving the car on-site?
Documentation is key to moving our work forward. Are you familiar with using a Wiki?
Please produce a 1-3 minute video introduction to yourself and upload it to a video-sharing site of your choice for our review. See sample video from WilliamCleaver from a former application.
Can you work well as a pioneer under rough conditions, by taking the responsibility to create your own environment?
When would you be available for a Dedicated Project Visit?
If you are accepted and things don't work out, do you have other options to pursue after the month?
List your goals and deliverables for your Dedicated Project Visit, breaking it up by each of the four weeks. Please write a one-page proposal brief summarizing what you would like to do, how you would accomplish it, and what resources you would need to do so. Include a budget as necessary. We are willing to pay for prototyping materials.
Are you willing to publish all the results of your work openly, and to make any of your contributions open source, consistent with our goal of creating Distributive Enterprise?
How does your proposed work contribute to the creation of the GVCS?
What are the metrics by which you could assess the success of your work? (prototypes built, documentation produced, resources or funding raised, infrastructure built, food provided, contribution to the community provided, True Fans recruited, etc.) Note that we are looking more for tangible and explicit proposals and results as opposed to 'I will help with whatever is needed' or other generalizations - unless we agree otherwise.
What do you expect personally to get out of your Dedicated Project Visit?
Can you visit us prior to your Dedicated Project Visit?
Please share three interesting things about yourself.
Please share three things you think people should know about living with you.
Can you bring a digital camera or phone camera for documenting your work?
Any other concerns or considerations?
Please fill out the Team Culturing short survey if you haven't done so already.
Please post your complete survey on this wiki by starting a page - titled 'Your Name Dedicated Project Visit Application'. Please embed your picture and video. See the wiki editing Instructions if you have any questions.