Open Source Ecology - User contributions [en]

Hab Lab

2011-10-27T14:25:44Z

Margaret Ida: /* Laying out the locations for the forms on top of the foundation stone */

The need for all-weather housing to shelter year-round members of the community, located where summers can be unpleasantly hot and winters unpleasantly cold, can be met with superinsulated designs. Here we will examine some possible options and our progress in bring them into existence. Planning tools, instructions, modifications, etc. will be included.

The [[Hab Lab Design Gallery|Design Page]] is a good place to see what has been offered and to post any of your own great ideas. More ideas are great for everybody!

==Survey & Design==
The area on the property for the first group habitation was on a noticeable slope. OSE staff members worked with a home-made water level to take measurements over a 100' square area.

How to make a water level: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nAcT_1T25LM

Ideas submitted for this project are located on the [[Hab Lab Design Gallery]] page.

===Building Orientation===
Oops!
Some of our pads got set 3' South of their intended site. Here is an emergency redesign idea.
[[File:Emergency Remodel HabLab.png|thumb|800px|center]]

==Planning==
There is a lot of planning that goes into building something like this. Here is a FreeMind mind map on that. It will be updated as we do more of it. The green nodes designate things we have completed - and therefore can 'go' forward with.
[[File:HabLab Planning.png|thumb|800px|center]]
The nodes with arrows indicate those that have been created as separate mind maps. Their details will be found in the subsection to which they pertain.

===Kitchen/Bath Water===
A plan for gray water drains - includes a floor drain in the kitchen and the bathroom, 2 showers, a sink, and a laundry location in the bathroom, and a sink location in the kitchen.
[[File:Gray Water Drains.png|thumb|600px|center]]

See the [[How Not To]] page for what we ran into with this part of the project.

===Utility/Storage Area===

===Heating===
[[Space_Heating]]
====Source Material====
http://dnr.mo.gov/pubs/pub781.pdf

==Site Preparation==

The Hab Lab is designed to be supported by columns built of CEB (Compressed Earth Block)which are constructed on a reinforced concrete pad. Due to the slope of our site, we designed a lowered section which requires a low retaining wall. Included here are instructions for preparing the site with adequate footings.

Here is a picture with a preliminary excavation layout for the column pad sites and the retaining wall in the Hab Lab.
*When you are laying out the excavation site, be sure to add 5' in each direction for the excavator to work to.

[[File:HabLab Excavation Layout.png|thumb|800 px|center]]
This levels diagram is from our theoretical measurements - we actually wound up with a 2' drop, not a 2'8" drop. That will make only a minor difference in raising the building - changing the size of the retaining wall and removing one or two CEB's at the top of the lower columns to maintain the planned roof pitch.
[[File:Levels Diagram for Hab Lab Site.png|thumb|800 px|center]]

==Foundations & Column Slabs==
[[File:Column Pad Form Prep.png|thumb|800px|center]]
[[File:Column Pads Completed.png|thumb|800px|center]]

===Laying out the Hab Lab excavation site to be square===
''Collect equipment and supplies needed''
*Blueprint of site plan
*(2) 100’ Measuring tapes
*4 3-4’ stakes
*Hammer
*Bright spray paint
''Steps for Staking out the excavation site.''
#Choose a spot approximately 5 feet to the North and 5 feet to the West of the area to be excavated.
#Pound in a stake and spray paint the top foot or two of it.
#Measure due East a distance 10’ longer than the foundation width (total 67’).
#Place and paint another stake.
#Calculate a distance 10’ longer than the foundation length (total 62’).
#Calculate the diagonal measurement of the excavation site [Length(squared) x Width(squared) = Diagonal(squared)] (91'4").
#Measure due South from the Northwest stake the distance calculated in step 6.
#Set the second tape measure on the Northeast stake and measure the diagonal calculated in step 7 going Southwest.
#Set your third stake where the two measured lengths meet each other.
#Paint the stake.
#Measure due South from the Northeast stake the distance calculated in step 6.
#Set the second tape measure on the Northwest stake and measure the diagonal calculated in step 7 going Southeast.
#Set your fouth stake where the two measured lengths meet each other.
#Paint the stake.

*With the site leveled, the foundation holes for the column slabs must be laid out.
*After excavation, the stone fill for the foundation goes into the holes.
*At the same time, the 6" stone floor foundation is spread.

===Concrete forms and rebar reinforcing assemblies===
These can be built well ahead of need whenever volunteers are available.
*You could set up an assembly line effect to do them all at once with several people working together.
*An individual might do one unit at a time.
*An individual might do all the wood cutting at one time, another do all the rebar cutting at another time, another do all the rebar bending at another time.
*A couple of people might work together to get some wooden forms assembled once the pieces are cut, another time, a couple of people might work together to get some rebar assemblies welded.

The following step-by-step instructions are provided for building the forms and the reinforcing rebar assemblies.

[[How to bend rebar]]

[[https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=14oCxZUjs09wGuvaL4QTAII6hRxQpy20TKv7skH3INRWAVlXqtgdrh0D2ggtl&hl=en Assembly sheet for column pad forms]]

[[https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=1_hf2n-l9rCiEss45ZC8ogtMpeQki9fCoYIFdkD5x3lCOwjGh7Gknr-POJrNB&hl=en Rebar plan for column footings]]

===Laying out the locations for the forms on top of the foundation stone===
Once the form and rebar assemblies are built and the foundation stone is in place, the string site plan lay-out must be set up for placing the forms properly over their (now invisible) foundations. If you set your hole locating strings far enough out that the excavation didn't disturb them, this will be simple. It will be even easier if you rolled up your strings before the hole excavation got done and saved them. (See comments below!)

''Collect equipment and supplies needed''
*Blueprint of site plan
*100' tape measure
*Pre-placed marking stakes around outside of foundation site.
*Rolled up pre-used string balls from foundation hole layout
''Steps for Laying out Column Pad Form locations.''
#Measure to check that all pre-placed marking stakes are properly positioned.
#If any are missing or misplaced, replace or reposition them as needed.
#Unroll and retie the strings to their corresponding stakes across the foundation site .

Here's what the layout over the stone should look like.
[[File:HabLab Column Pad Form Layout.png|thumb|600 px|center]]

-Notes- Be sure to read the [[How Not To]] page on this one!

===Setting the column pad forms===
''Collect equipment and supplies needed''
*Supplies
**16 Pre-built column pad forms
**80 form stakes (we used 2"x2"x18" wooden stakes)
*Equipment
**Heavy Hammer(s)
**4'spirit Level
**Water level
**tape measure
''Steps to place Column Pad forms''
#Use with the center pad site on the upper level as the reference pad.
#Set a pre-built column pad form in place under the string lines with the inside of the forms under the strings.
#Drive two form stakes next to the outside of one side and one on each of the other three sides. They will need to sit deep enough that the tops of the stakes will be level with (or lower than) the top of the form.
#Level the form.
##Screw one of the stakes (on the side with two) to the side of the form so that the form sits 1/2" above the gravel level. Be sure that the top of the stake is level with (or lower than) the top of the form.
##Use the spirit level to set this side of the form level and screw it in position.
##Use the spirit level to set the opposite side of the form at the same level.
##Check the level on the other two sides and screw them in place.
#Use the water level to set the first level on each of the other pads on the upper level.
#Repeat the remainder of the leveling steps for each form.
#Use the water level to set the level of the center form in the lower level at 24" lower than the upper level pads.
#Complete the leveling steps for this form.
#Use the center form on the lower level for a reference form to set and level the remaining lower level column pad forms.

[[File:Setting Column Pad Forms Diagram.png|thumb|600 px|center]]

===Preparing Column Pad Forms for Reinforced Concrete===
Collect equipment and supplies needed
*Supplies
**16 Pre-built column pad rebar assemblies
**64 rebar chairs
*Equipment
**Rake(s)
**shovel
**tape measure
#Use a rake and shovel to remove about 2" of stone from the inside of the form. (until is 6" deep)
#Pack removed stone around outside of forms to create a fully enclosed 6" deep form.
#Use one prebuilt column pad rebar assembly for each column pad site.
#Center the rebar assembly with 3” gap between assembly and form wall on every side.
#Set rebar chairs under corners of prebuilt column pad rebar assemblies.-Put a stone or some gravel under the chairs if needed to center the rebar so it will sit at about the middle of the finished slab (3" off the floor of the form).

[[File:Preparing Column Pad Sites for Concrete Pouring.png|thumb|600 px|center]]

==Concrete Work==
We are preparing to do the big concrete pour. Using the FreeMind mind map model, this is the node that outlines the dependencies so we can be ready for that. Following sections include instructions for accomplishing them.
[[File:Dependencies for Getting Floors Poured.png|thumb|800px|center]]
Here is the mindmap updated after the all the concrete was poured.
[[File:Concrete Floors Poured.png|thumb|800px|center]]

Here is the planning layout for the concrete - which we are planning to do in one great big pour. We'll let you know how it goes!
[[File:HabLab Concrete Forms Layout.png|800px|center]]

===Insulated Outside Wall Support Slabs===
We are planning to put reinforced concrete the full 3' width of the Column Support Pads all the way around the outside of the building. They will be 3-1/2" (2x4 lumber size) deep and will support the two CEB walls that enclose the hay bale insulation. Rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.

====Preparing the rebar reinforcement assemblies====
[[How to bend rebar]]

Rebar Assembly for 13’ Outside Wall pads (make 11 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’6” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 6’4” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 12’6” by 2’6” dimensions.
#Measure and cut (1) 20’ piece of #4 rebar to 12’7” in length.
#Center the 12’7” piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld it into place.
[[File:Rebar for outside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

Rebar Assembly for 9’6” Outside Wall pads (make 2 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 4’7” from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’6” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 4’7” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 9’ by 2’6” dimensions.
#Measure and cut (1) 20’ piece of #4 rebar to 9’1” in length.
#Center the 9’1” piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld it into place.
[[File:Rebar for 9.5' outside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

Rebar Assembly for 7' Outside Wall pads (make 2 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 3’4” from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’6” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 3’4” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 6’6” by 2’6” dimensions.
#Measure and cut (1) 20’ piece of #4 rebar to 6'7" in length.
#Center the 6'7" piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld it into place.
[[File:Rebar for 7' outside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

====Preparing the concrete forms====
Our pouring plan requires these forms relating to the outside wall construction. For those wall pads that are part of our interior pads, additional forms are in other sections. If you are not pouring large interior pads, you will need to adjust the number of interior forms.

Exterior Forms for 13' Wall slabs. (make 10 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(2) 2"x4"x7' pine studs
*(1) piece of scrap lumber,
*(4) 3" screws
*Driver
''Steps to do:''
#Start two screws into the flat side of each end of the piece of scrap lumber.
#Butt the two 7' boards end to end
#Lay the piece of scrap lumber over the seam butt joint.
#Be sure the narrow sides of the boards are lined up evenly with each other.
#Drive the screws in completely to hold the boards in line.

Interior Forms for 13' Wall slabs. (make 5 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(2) 2"x4"x7' pine studs
*Measuring tape
*Pencil
*Saw
*(4) 3" screws
*Driver
''Steps to do:''
#Measure, mark, and cut one board to be 6' long.
#Start two screws into the flat side of each end of the 1' piece of scrap lumber.
#Butt the 6' piece with the other 7' board end to end
#Lay the piece of scrap lumber over the seam butt joint.
#Be sure the narrow sides of the boards are lined up evenly with each other.
#Drive the screws in completely to hold the boards in line.

Forms for Wall slabs on split-level section

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(6) 2"x4"x7' pine studs
*(4) 2"x4"x10' pine studs
*Measuring tape
*Pencil
*Saw
''Steps to do:''
#Measure, mark, and cut (2) 7' boards to be 6' long.
#Measure, mark, and cut (2) 10' boards to be 9'6" long.
#You will use the other boards uncut.

[[File:Exterior Wall Form Boards.png|thumb|600px|center]]

====Setting the forms====

===Narrow Wall Support Slabs===
We will support and stabilize the interior CEB walls with a 12" wide x 3-1/2" deep concrete slab. Rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.

====Preparing Rebar reinforcement assemblies====
Rebar Assembly for all 12” interior wall slabs

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(10) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 3’4” from one end.
#Bend 180⁰ the rebar with a 3” radius.
#Measure and mark so another 180⁰ with a 3” radius will produce 6’6” long assemblies.
#Cut the extra rebar (about 7’) off, leaving enough to tack weld each assembly together.

#Measure and mark (4) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 4’4” from the end.
#Bend 180⁰ with a 3” radius.
#Measure and mark so another 180⁰ with a 3” radius will produce 8’6” long assemblies.
#Cut the extra rebar off, leaving enough to tack weld each assembly together.

#Measure and mark (4) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” from the end.
#Bend 180⁰ with a 3” radius.
#Measure and mark so another 180⁰ with a 3” radius will produce 12’6” long assemblies.
#Use scrap cuttings (about 7’ long) to bridge the gap for each of these assemblies.
[[File:Rebar for 1' inside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

====Preparing the Concrete Forms====
These 12" wide slabs will provide a firm foundation on which to build our interior CEB room-dividing walls. Mostly they use the same sizes of forms you used for the outside walls. If you are pouring in small stages, you won't have build more forms because you can reuse the ones from the outside wall slabs. If you are going to pour all the concrete at once, you will need 7 more of the 13' inside form assemblies, 4 more uncut 7' boards, 2 more 7' boards cut to 6' lengths, 6 more boards cut to 9'6", and two boards cut to 9' in length.
Instructions for preparing all of these boards are found above - in the [[#Insulated Outside Wall Support Slabs/Preparing the Concrete Forms|Outside Wall Slabs]] section.

====Setting the Forms====

===Kitchen and Bath Areas===
The Kitchen and Bath Floor Areas both have a potential for receiving noticeable amounts of water. We consider it advisable to pave them both with concrete and include a central drain. Rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.
====Preparing the Rebar Assemblies====
Rebar Assembly for 16’x13’ slabs (make 2 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (4) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” from the end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Cut the long ends to 7’10” long.
#Overlap the short ends of two L-shaped pieces and measure to make a U shaped assembly with 12’6” between the legs.
#Make two of these assemblies.
#Overlap the legs of the U-shaped assemblies to make a rectangle measuring 15’6” x 12’6”
#Measure and cut (5) pieces of #4 rebar to 15’7” long.
#Measure and cut (7) pieces of #4 rebar to 12’7” long.
#Space and position the cut pieces into a 24” grid across the rectangle.
[[File:Rebar for between big slabs.png|thumb|600px|center]]

#Weld them into place.
[[File:Rebar for 16x13 slab.png|thumb|600px|center]]

There is one more assembly to go into this section between the two big ones. It is a modification of the exterior wall slab reinforcements.

Rebar Assembly for Interior 13’x3’ section of big Slab

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(2) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” #from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’ between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 6’4” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 12’6” by 2’ dimensions.

====Preparing the Concrete forms====
Because we are pouring this all at once, we decided to eliminate some complicated form work by including the equipment area and one room in this slab. This will be a big pour of concrete. It requires about 5 cubic yards of concrete. If you have plenty of time and are working in small batches, you can save over a yard of concrete by building the interior wall forms and pouring only wall-support pads - as shown on the layout.

The large slabs are laid between column pads, using 13' interior form assemblies. If you are pouring all at once, you will need two more of these assemblies, one more board cut to 9'6", and a piece of scrap about 3' long to complete the form work for this area. This, of course, assumes that you already have the exterior forms for the exterior wall slabs prepared. Instructions for preparing all of these are above in the [[#Insulated Outside Wall Support Slabs/Preparing the Concrete Forms|Outside Wall Slabs]]
section.
====Setting the Forms====

===Retaining Wall for Lower Level===
Ideas for this wall have been through several iterations. At present (Oct. 10th), we are planning to lay a 6" footer, 18" wide and 62' long. On top of that, we plan to put a 12" thick wall of bitumen-protected CEB. For the concrete footer, rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.
====Preparing the Rebar Assembly====
Rebar Assembly for Retaining wall footer

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(9) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Scrap #4 rebar to make (1) 6’ pieces and (1) 1’1” piece
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 8’ from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 12” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut (1) 6’ and (1) 1’1” piece of #4 rebar.
#Overlap and weld (1) 20’ length of rebar to each leg.
#Measure and weld the two longer legs together so the resulting assembly is 61’6” long.
#Weld the 6’ piece of rebar between the ends of the two shorter legs so that side is 61’6” long, too.
#Weld (3) 20’ pieces of #4 rebar into an approximately 60’ length of rebar.
#Center the 60’ piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld one end at the center of one end of the rectangle.
#Position the 1’1” piece of rebar across the rectangle to support the free end of the 60’ assembly.
#Weld the short piece to the three long ones.
[[File:Rebar Assembly for Retaining wall.png|thumb|600px|center]]
====Preparing the Concrete Form====
This is a really long form - 62 feet. You don't want to put it together ahead of time and try to carry it anywhere! What you ''do'' want to do is make sure you have all the pieces you will need cut and reserved against the time you will be setting the forms up.

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(8) 2"x6"x16' boards
*(6) Pieces of 2x4 or 2x6 scrap for splicing.
*Measuring tape
*Pencil
*Saw
''Steps to do''
#Measure and mark 18" from the end of (2) 2x6x16' boards
#Cut the two 18" pieces and mark them "form ends".
#Set aside the 6 16' boards, the 14'6" boards, the form ends, and all the scrap pieces in a reserve pile.

====Setting the Concrete Form====

==CEB Columns==

[[http://ww2.unhabitat.org/programmes/housingpolicy/Images/PDF.gif|UN CEB PDF]]

[[File:Hab_Lab_Coursework_Columns.png|thumb|400px|Center]]

==CEB Arches==

[[http://ww2.unhabitat.org/programmes/housingpolicy/documents/Vault.pdf|UN Vaults PDF]]

[[http://www.amazon.com/Concrete-Hardness-Hammer-HT-225A-Portable/dp/B0049DDJCK/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1317915942&sr=8-6|Hardness Test Hammer]] for quality assurance

==CEB Floors==

[[http://www.velacreations.com/cebfloors.html|CEB Floor Instructions]]

==CEB Walls==

[[File:Hab_Lab_Coursework_Interior_Walls.png|thumb|800px|center]]

==CEB Retaining Wall==

[[File:Hab_Lab_Coursework_Retaining_Wall.png|thumb|800px|center]]

==Insulated Roof==

# 16 11-member 2x6x16' frames
# a layer of tyvek
# a layer of lathe, mounted diagonally about 18" apart
# a layer of hay bales surrounded and around 2x12 spacers
# 16 11-member 2x4x16' frames
# agricultural roof panel on top and sides

Frames are built with one 16' beam on each end of 9 other 16' beams laid on 24" centers. These roof frames can be built quite quickly at any time labor is available, preferably ahead of time so that they can be installed as soon as the columns are ready to be covered.

==Super Insulated Walls==

2.5 foot thick wall.

4x6x12 bricks laid on the 12x4" side in standard wall layup, two walls outside surfaces 2.5' apart.

With air space left on either side, bales are stacked in the center of the wall, creating super insulation between the interior and exterior.

==Heating the HabLab==

I propose a [[http://www.heatkit.com Heatkit]] masonry furnace kit, surrounded by CEB

How Not To

2011-10-27T14:25:08Z

Margaret Ida:

In every project there are caveats that should be heeded and have been discovered by those who have attempted something similiar. When do-it-yourselfers pull a real boner and mess things up, it can be pretty embarrassing and their first response may be to gloss it over in their reports. However - especially in the case of Open Sourse work, where the idea is to help others be able to do the same project - our errors can be others' most valuable resource! On this page, we swallow our pride, report and analyze our errors, tell what we did for damage control and the results, and make strong recommendations for ways to avoid the mistake.

=Hab Lab=
Well, as I understand it, the 'lab' part of the name indicates that it is a laboratory - a place where we experiment and learn. Here are some of the How Not To things we learned during this building experiment.

==Laying out the locations for the forms on top of the foundation stone==
One problem led to another one:
===First===
We had a great plan for this - we would set our stakes out first to mark the hole edges at 4'x4', save the strings and move the stakes in by 6" to 3'x3' for setting the pad forms.

====What happened====
*We lost a lot of our stakes during the excavation.
*We found the holes tended to come out bigger than we had intended them to be.
*And once the stone was laid over the site, we couldn't see where the foundation holes were located!
====Damage control====
We wound up remeasuring and resetting most of the stakes for laying out the pad site grid.
*We dug stone out of two of corners to find the edges of the foundation holes.
*We remeasured and reset corner marking stakes inside those edges.
*We retriangulated with the diagonals to assure the foundation square.
*And we remeasured and reset stakes along all the edges.
====Avoiding the problem====
So we've rewritten the foundation lay-out plans as they are currently posted. In the current version, we
*Set the stakes firmly and safely outside the excavation area,
*Set them at the 3'x3' points to start with so they don't need to be moved, and
*Marked the excavation holes smaller.
===Second===
We started setting the floor and wall forms and found that our East row of firmly-set-concrete column pads were sitting 3' further South than they should have been!
Further observation determined that two entire East/West rows were affected by the error.

====What happened====
First
*The outlining strings for the site were set properly and square - good.
*However, while doing all of the fixing for the first problem, ''we got tired and thought up a short cut''. We were short on stakes and we needed to mark both the hablab and the workshop sites for form placement (our 40 forms would require us to locate and put in some 40 stakes) We could place our forms easily enough in line with the strings with only one corner marked couldn't we? (That would require placing half as many stakes!)
*We started at the NorthWest corner and measured 16' East along the North line and staked that for a line. Then another 16' East we set another stake.
*Then we went back and did the same from the NorthWest corner to the South. - and from the SouthWest corner to the East.
*Finally we went down to the lower level and marked the East line of the site ''starting at the South end of the line''. - And we ran our strings.
Then, later
*Time constraints were closing in on us.
*''We were tired'' 'and' ''losing daylight'' when we set the forms in place along the lines on the Hab Lab site.
*We had some difficulty lining up some of the forms squarely with the marking strings.
====Damage Control====
We decided that an emergency floor plan change we came up with should compensate for this without having to redo most of the column pads.
So this is the layout we are actually working with now!
[[File:Oops HabLab Column Pad Form Layout.png|thumb|600px|center]]
====Avoiding the problem====
I don't recommend using this short cut, but if you do:
*Check and recheck the measurements on string placements. -''Measure twice, cut once'' is how they say it in carpentry.
*Make time in your schedule to really focus on the project - and look at the results.
*Work in the daylight hours
*Look for a cause when anything is more difficult than it should be - It was hard to align the squarely built pads with the strings (that should have been crossing at right angles) for a good reason!

How Not To

2011-10-27T14:23:55Z

Margaret Ida: /* Hab Lab */

In every project there are caveats that should be heeded and have been discovered by those who have attempted something similiar. When do-it-yourselfers pull a real boner and mess things up, it can be pretty embarrassing and their first response may be to gloss it over in their reports. However - especially in the case of Open Sourse work, where the idea is to help others be able to do the same project - our errors can be others' most valuable resource! On this page, we swallow our pride, report and analyze our errors, tell what we did for damage control and the results, and can making strong recommendations for ways to avoid the mistake.

=Hab Lab=
Well, as I understand it, the 'lab' part of the name indicates that it is a laboratory - a place where we experiment and learn. Here are some of the How Not To things we learned during this building experiment.

==Laying out the locations for the forms on top of the foundation stone==
One problem led to another one:
===First===
We had a great plan for this - we would set our stakes out first to mark the hole edges at 4'x4', save the strings and move the stakes in by 6" to 3'x3' for setting the pad forms.

====What happened====
*We lost a lot of our stakes during the excavation.
*We found the holes tended to come out bigger than we had intended them to be.
*And once the stone was laid over the site, we couldn't see where the foundation holes were located!
====Damage control====
We wound up remeasuring and resetting most of the stakes for laying out the pad site grid.
*We dug stone out of two of corners to find the edges of the foundation holes.
*We remeasured and reset corner marking stakes inside those edges.
*We retriangulated with the diagonals to assure the foundation square.
*And we remeasured and reset stakes along all the edges.
====Avoiding the problem====
So we've rewritten the foundation lay-out plans as they are currently posted. In the current version, we
*Set the stakes firmly and safely outside the excavation area,
*Set them at the 3'x3' points to start with so they don't need to be moved, and
*Marked the excavation holes smaller.
===Second===
We started setting the floor and wall forms and found that our East row of firmly-set-concrete column pads were sitting 3' further South than they should have been!
Further observation determined that two entire East/West rows were affected by the error.

====What happened====
First
*The outlining strings for the site were set properly and square - good.
*However, while doing all of the fixing for the first problem, ''we got tired and thought up a short cut''. We were short on stakes and we needed to mark both the hablab and the workshop sites for form placement (our 40 forms would require us to locate and put in some 40 stakes) We could place our forms easily enough in line with the strings with only one corner marked couldn't we? (That would require placing half as many stakes!)
*We started at the NorthWest corner and measured 16' East along the North line and staked that for a line. Then another 16' East we set another stake.
*Then we went back and did the same from the NorthWest corner to the South. - and from the SouthWest corner to the East.
*Finally we went down to the lower level and marked the East line of the site ''starting at the South end of the line''. - And we ran our strings.
Then, later
*Time constraints were closing in on us.
*''We were tired'' 'and' ''losing daylight'' when we set the forms in place along the lines on the Hab Lab site.
*We had some difficulty lining up some of the forms squarely with the marking strings.
====Damage Control====
We decided that an emergency floor plan change we came up with should compensate for this without having to redo most of the column pads.
So this is the layout we are actually working with now!
[[File:Oops HabLab Column Pad Form Layout.png|thumb|600px|center]]
====Avoiding the problem====
I don't recommend using this short cut, but if you do:
*Check and recheck the measurements on string placements. -''Measure twice, cut once'' is how they say it in carpentry.
*Make time in your schedule to really focus on the project - and look at the results.
*Work in the daylight hours
*Look for a cause when anything is more difficult than it should be - It was hard to align the squarely built pads with the strings (that should have been crossing at right angles) for a good reason!

Hab Lab

2011-10-27T13:30:49Z

Margaret Ida: /* Kitchen/Bath Water */

The need for all-weather housing to shelter year-round members of the community, located where summers can be unpleasantly hot and winters unpleasantly cold, can be met with superinsulated designs. Here we will examine some possible options and our progress in bring them into existence. Planning tools, instructions, modifications, etc. will be included.

The [[Hab Lab Design Gallery|Design Page]] is a good place to see what has been offered and to post any of your own great ideas. More ideas are great for everybody!

==Survey & Design==
The area on the property for the first group habitation was on a noticeable slope. OSE staff members worked with a home-made water level to take measurements over a 100' square area.

How to make a water level: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nAcT_1T25LM

Ideas submitted for this project are located on the [[Hab Lab Design Gallery]] page.

===Building Orientation===
Oops!
Some of our pads got set 3' South of their intended site. Here is an emergency redesign idea.
[[File:Emergency Remodel HabLab.png|thumb|800px|center]]

==Planning==
There is a lot of planning that goes into building something like this. Here is a FreeMind mind map on that. It will be updated as we do more of it. The green nodes designate things we have completed - and therefore can 'go' forward with.
[[File:HabLab Planning.png|thumb|800px|center]]
The nodes with arrows indicate those that have been created as separate mind maps. Their details will be found in the subsection to which they pertain.

===Kitchen/Bath Water===
A plan for gray water drains - includes a floor drain in the kitchen and the bathroom, 2 showers, a sink, and a laundry location in the bathroom, and a sink location in the kitchen.
[[File:Gray Water Drains.png|thumb|600px|center]]

See the [[How Not To]] page for what we ran into with this part of the project.

===Utility/Storage Area===

===Heating===
[[Space_Heating]]
====Source Material====
http://dnr.mo.gov/pubs/pub781.pdf

==Site Preparation==

The Hab Lab is designed to be supported by columns built of CEB (Compressed Earth Block)which are constructed on a reinforced concrete pad. Due to the slope of our site, we designed a lowered section which requires a low retaining wall. Included here are instructions for preparing the site with adequate footings.

Here is a picture with a preliminary excavation layout for the column pad sites and the retaining wall in the Hab Lab.
*When you are laying out the excavation site, be sure to add 5' in each direction for the excavator to work to.

[[File:HabLab Excavation Layout.png|thumb|800 px|center]]
This levels diagram is from our theoretical measurements - we actually wound up with a 2' drop, not a 2'8" drop. That will make only a minor difference in raising the building - changing the size of the retaining wall and removing one or two CEB's at the top of the lower columns to maintain the planned roof pitch.
[[File:Levels Diagram for Hab Lab Site.png|thumb|800 px|center]]

==Foundations & Column Slabs==
[[File:Column Pad Form Prep.png|thumb|800px|center]]
[[File:Column Pads Completed.png|thumb|800px|center]]

===Laying out the Hab Lab excavation site to be square===
''Collect equipment and supplies needed''
*Blueprint of site plan
*(2) 100’ Measuring tapes
*4 3-4’ stakes
*Hammer
*Bright spray paint
''Steps for Staking out the excavation site.''
#Choose a spot approximately 5 feet to the North and 5 feet to the West of the area to be excavated.
#Pound in a stake and spray paint the top foot or two of it.
#Measure due East a distance 10’ longer than the foundation width (total 67’).
#Place and paint another stake.
#Calculate a distance 10’ longer than the foundation length (total 62’).
#Calculate the diagonal measurement of the excavation site [Length(squared) x Width(squared) = Diagonal(squared)] (91'4").
#Measure due South from the Northwest stake the distance calculated in step 6.
#Set the second tape measure on the Northeast stake and measure the diagonal calculated in step 7 going Southwest.
#Set your third stake where the two measured lengths meet each other.
#Paint the stake.
#Measure due South from the Northeast stake the distance calculated in step 6.
#Set the second tape measure on the Northwest stake and measure the diagonal calculated in step 7 going Southeast.
#Set your fouth stake where the two measured lengths meet each other.
#Paint the stake.

*With the site leveled, the foundation holes for the column slabs must be laid out.
*After excavation, the stone fill for the foundation goes into the holes.
*At the same time, the 6" stone floor foundation is spread.

===Concrete forms and rebar reinforcing assemblies===
These can be built well ahead of need whenever volunteers are available.
*You could set up an assembly line effect to do them all at once with several people working together.
*An individual might do one unit at a time.
*An individual might do all the wood cutting at one time, another do all the rebar cutting at another time, another do all the rebar bending at another time.
*A couple of people might work together to get some wooden forms assembled once the pieces are cut, another time, a couple of people might work together to get some rebar assemblies welded.

The following step-by-step instructions are provided for building the forms and the reinforcing rebar assemblies.

[[How to bend rebar]]

[[https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=14oCxZUjs09wGuvaL4QTAII6hRxQpy20TKv7skH3INRWAVlXqtgdrh0D2ggtl&hl=en Assembly sheet for column pad forms]]

[[https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=1_hf2n-l9rCiEss45ZC8ogtMpeQki9fCoYIFdkD5x3lCOwjGh7Gknr-POJrNB&hl=en Rebar plan for column footings]]

===Laying out the locations for the forms on top of the foundation stone===
Once the form and rebar assemblies are built and the foundation stone is in place, the string site plan lay-out must be set up for placing the forms properly over their (now invisible) foundations. If you set your hole locating strings far enough out that the excavation didn't disturb them, this will be simple. It will be even easier if you rolled up your strings before the hole excavation got done and saved them. (See comments below!)

''Collect equipment and supplies needed''
*Blueprint of site plan
*100' tape measure
*Pre-placed marking stakes around outside of foundation site.
*Rolled up pre-used string balls from foundation hole layout
''Steps for Laying out Column Pad Form locations.''
#Measure to check that all pre-placed marking stakes are properly positioned.
#If any are missing or misplaced, replace or reposition them as needed.
#Unroll and retie the strings to their corresponding stakes across the foundation site .

Here's what the layout over the stone should look like.
[[File:HabLab Column Pad Form Layout.png|thumb|600 px|center]]

-Note-
We had a great plan for this - we would set our stakes out first to mark the hole edges at 4'x4', save the strings and move the stakes in by 6" to 3'x3' for the setting the pad forms.

However, when we tried it in real life - Well...
*We lost a lot of our stakes during the excavation.
*We found the holes tended to come out bigger than we had intended them to be.
*And once the stone was laid over the site, we couldn't see where the foundation holes were located!
We wound up remeasuring and resetting most of the stakes for laying out the pad site grid.
*We dug stone out of two of corners to find the edges of the foundation holes.
*We remeasured and reset corner marking stakes inside those edges.
*We retriangulated with the diagonals to assure the foundation square.
*And we remeasured and reset stakes along all the edges.

So we've rewritten the foundation lay-out plans as they are currently posted. In the current version, we set the stakes at the 3'x3' points to start with so they don't need to be moved. We also emphasized setting them firmly - and safely outside the excavation area.

-Later Note-
More sad experience - gained while setting the floor and wall forms and found our firmly set concrete East column pads were sitting 3' further South than they should have been!

What happened -
*The outlining strings for the site were set properly and square - good.
*However, while doing all of the fixing above, we got tired and thought up a short cut. We were short on stakes and we needed to mark both the hablab and the workshop sites for form placement (our 40 forms would require us to locate and put in some 40 stakes) We could place our forms easily enough in line with the strings with only one corner marked couldn't we? (That would require placing half as many stakes!)
*We started at the NorthWest corner and measured 16' East along the North line and staked that for a line. Then another 16' East we set another stake.
*Then we went back and did the same from the NorthWest corner to the South. - and from the SouthWest corner to the East.
*Finally we went down to the lower level and marked the East line of the site ''starting at the South end of the line''. - And we ran our strings.
*Later, we were tired and losing daylight when we set the forms in place along the lines on the Hab Lab site.
I suppose this short cut could have worked if we had checked more carfully:
*Rechecking the placement measurements is an obvious one.
*Standing back and looking for parallel lines is another obvious one.
*Looking for a cause when it was difficult to align the squarely built pads with the crossed strings would have been another solution.

So this is the layout we are actually working with now!
[[File:Oops HabLab Column Pad Form Layout.png|thumb|600px|center]]

We decided that an emergency floor plan change we came up with should compensate for this without having to redo most of the column pads. As we run into more complications, we'll post on them!

===Setting the column pad forms===
''Collect equipment and supplies needed''
*Supplies
**16 Pre-built column pad forms
**80 form stakes (we used 2"x2"x18" wooden stakes)
*Equipment
**Heavy Hammer(s)
**4'spirit Level
**Water level
**tape measure
''Steps to place Column Pad forms''
#Use with the center pad site on the upper level as the reference pad.
#Set a pre-built column pad form in place under the string lines with the inside of the forms under the strings.
#Drive two form stakes next to the outside of one side and one on each of the other three sides. They will need to sit deep enough that the tops of the stakes will be level with (or lower than) the top of the form.
#Level the form.
##Screw one of the stakes (on the side with two) to the side of the form so that the form sits 1/2" above the gravel level. Be sure that the top of the stake is level with (or lower than) the top of the form.
##Use the spirit level to set this side of the form level and screw it in position.
##Use the spirit level to set the opposite side of the form at the same level.
##Check the level on the other two sides and screw them in place.
#Use the water level to set the first level on each of the other pads on the upper level.
#Repeat the remainder of the leveling steps for each form.
#Use the water level to set the level of the center form in the lower level at 24" lower than the upper level pads.
#Complete the leveling steps for this form.
#Use the center form on the lower level for a reference form to set and level the remaining lower level column pad forms.

[[File:Setting Column Pad Forms Diagram.png|thumb|600 px|center]]

===Preparing Column Pad Forms for Reinforced Concrete===
Collect equipment and supplies needed
*Supplies
**16 Pre-built column pad rebar assemblies
**64 rebar chairs
*Equipment
**Rake(s)
**shovel
**tape measure
#Use a rake and shovel to remove about 2" of stone from the inside of the form. (until is 6" deep)
#Pack removed stone around outside of forms to create a fully enclosed 6" deep form.
#Use one prebuilt column pad rebar assembly for each column pad site.
#Center the rebar assembly with 3” gap between assembly and form wall on every side.
#Set rebar chairs under corners of prebuilt column pad rebar assemblies.-Put a stone or some gravel under the chairs if needed to center the rebar so it will sit at about the middle of the finished slab (3" off the floor of the form).

[[File:Preparing Column Pad Sites for Concrete Pouring.png|thumb|600 px|center]]

==Concrete Work==
We are preparing to do the big concrete pour. Using the FreeMind mind map model, this is the node that outlines the dependencies so we can be ready for that. Following sections include instructions for accomplishing them.
[[File:Dependencies for Getting Floors Poured.png|thumb|800px|center]]
Here is the mindmap updated after the all the concrete was poured.
[[File:Concrete Floors Poured.png|thumb|800px|center]]

Here is the planning layout for the concrete - which we are planning to do in one great big pour. We'll let you know how it goes!
[[File:HabLab Concrete Forms Layout.png|800px|center]]

===Insulated Outside Wall Support Slabs===
We are planning to put reinforced concrete the full 3' width of the Column Support Pads all the way around the outside of the building. They will be 3-1/2" (2x4 lumber size) deep and will support the two CEB walls that enclose the hay bale insulation. Rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.

====Preparing the rebar reinforcement assemblies====
[[How to bend rebar]]

Rebar Assembly for 13’ Outside Wall pads (make 11 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’6” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 6’4” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 12’6” by 2’6” dimensions.
#Measure and cut (1) 20’ piece of #4 rebar to 12’7” in length.
#Center the 12’7” piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld it into place.
[[File:Rebar for outside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

Rebar Assembly for 9’6” Outside Wall pads (make 2 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 4’7” from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’6” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 4’7” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 9’ by 2’6” dimensions.
#Measure and cut (1) 20’ piece of #4 rebar to 9’1” in length.
#Center the 9’1” piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld it into place.
[[File:Rebar for 9.5' outside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

Rebar Assembly for 7' Outside Wall pads (make 2 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 3’4” from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’6” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 3’4” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 6’6” by 2’6” dimensions.
#Measure and cut (1) 20’ piece of #4 rebar to 6'7" in length.
#Center the 6'7" piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld it into place.
[[File:Rebar for 7' outside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

====Preparing the concrete forms====
Our pouring plan requires these forms relating to the outside wall construction. For those wall pads that are part of our interior pads, additional forms are in other sections. If you are not pouring large interior pads, you will need to adjust the number of interior forms.

Exterior Forms for 13' Wall slabs. (make 10 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(2) 2"x4"x7' pine studs
*(1) piece of scrap lumber,
*(4) 3" screws
*Driver
''Steps to do:''
#Start two screws into the flat side of each end of the piece of scrap lumber.
#Butt the two 7' boards end to end
#Lay the piece of scrap lumber over the seam butt joint.
#Be sure the narrow sides of the boards are lined up evenly with each other.
#Drive the screws in completely to hold the boards in line.

Interior Forms for 13' Wall slabs. (make 5 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(2) 2"x4"x7' pine studs
*Measuring tape
*Pencil
*Saw
*(4) 3" screws
*Driver
''Steps to do:''
#Measure, mark, and cut one board to be 6' long.
#Start two screws into the flat side of each end of the 1' piece of scrap lumber.
#Butt the 6' piece with the other 7' board end to end
#Lay the piece of scrap lumber over the seam butt joint.
#Be sure the narrow sides of the boards are lined up evenly with each other.
#Drive the screws in completely to hold the boards in line.

Forms for Wall slabs on split-level section

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(6) 2"x4"x7' pine studs
*(4) 2"x4"x10' pine studs
*Measuring tape
*Pencil
*Saw
''Steps to do:''
#Measure, mark, and cut (2) 7' boards to be 6' long.
#Measure, mark, and cut (2) 10' boards to be 9'6" long.
#You will use the other boards uncut.

[[File:Exterior Wall Form Boards.png|thumb|600px|center]]

====Setting the forms====

===Narrow Wall Support Slabs===
We will support and stabilize the interior CEB walls with a 12" wide x 3-1/2" deep concrete slab. Rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.

====Preparing Rebar reinforcement assemblies====
Rebar Assembly for all 12” interior wall slabs

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(10) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 3’4” from one end.
#Bend 180⁰ the rebar with a 3” radius.
#Measure and mark so another 180⁰ with a 3” radius will produce 6’6” long assemblies.
#Cut the extra rebar (about 7’) off, leaving enough to tack weld each assembly together.

#Measure and mark (4) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 4’4” from the end.
#Bend 180⁰ with a 3” radius.
#Measure and mark so another 180⁰ with a 3” radius will produce 8’6” long assemblies.
#Cut the extra rebar off, leaving enough to tack weld each assembly together.

#Measure and mark (4) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” from the end.
#Bend 180⁰ with a 3” radius.
#Measure and mark so another 180⁰ with a 3” radius will produce 12’6” long assemblies.
#Use scrap cuttings (about 7’ long) to bridge the gap for each of these assemblies.
[[File:Rebar for 1' inside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

====Preparing the Concrete Forms====
These 12" wide slabs will provide a firm foundation on which to build our interior CEB room-dividing walls. Mostly they use the same sizes of forms you used for the outside walls. If you are pouring in small stages, you won't have build more forms because you can reuse the ones from the outside wall slabs. If you are going to pour all the concrete at once, you will need 7 more of the 13' inside form assemblies, 4 more uncut 7' boards, 2 more 7' boards cut to 6' lengths, 6 more boards cut to 9'6", and two boards cut to 9' in length.
Instructions for preparing all of these boards are found above - in the [[#Insulated Outside Wall Support Slabs/Preparing the Concrete Forms|Outside Wall Slabs]] section.

====Setting the Forms====

===Kitchen and Bath Areas===
The Kitchen and Bath Floor Areas both have a potential for receiving noticeable amounts of water. We consider it advisable to pave them both with concrete and include a central drain. Rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.
====Preparing the Rebar Assemblies====
Rebar Assembly for 16’x13’ slabs (make 2 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (4) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” from the end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Cut the long ends to 7’10” long.
#Overlap the short ends of two L-shaped pieces and measure to make a U shaped assembly with 12’6” between the legs.
#Make two of these assemblies.
#Overlap the legs of the U-shaped assemblies to make a rectangle measuring 15’6” x 12’6”
#Measure and cut (5) pieces of #4 rebar to 15’7” long.
#Measure and cut (7) pieces of #4 rebar to 12’7” long.
#Space and position the cut pieces into a 24” grid across the rectangle.
[[File:Rebar for between big slabs.png|thumb|600px|center]]

#Weld them into place.
[[File:Rebar for 16x13 slab.png|thumb|600px|center]]

There is one more assembly to go into this section between the two big ones. It is a modification of the exterior wall slab reinforcements.

Rebar Assembly for Interior 13’x3’ section of big Slab

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(2) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” #from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’ between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 6’4” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 12’6” by 2’ dimensions.

====Preparing the Concrete forms====
Because we are pouring this all at once, we decided to eliminate some complicated form work by including the equipment area and one room in this slab. This will be a big pour of concrete. It requires about 5 cubic yards of concrete. If you have plenty of time and are working in small batches, you can save over a yard of concrete by building the interior wall forms and pouring only wall-support pads - as shown on the layout.

The large slabs are laid between column pads, using 13' interior form assemblies. If you are pouring all at once, you will need two more of these assemblies, one more board cut to 9'6", and a piece of scrap about 3' long to complete the form work for this area. This, of course, assumes that you already have the exterior forms for the exterior wall slabs prepared. Instructions for preparing all of these are above in the [[#Insulated Outside Wall Support Slabs/Preparing the Concrete Forms|Outside Wall Slabs]]
section.
====Setting the Forms====

===Retaining Wall for Lower Level===
Ideas for this wall have been through several iterations. At present (Oct. 10th), we are planning to lay a 6" footer, 18" wide and 62' long. On top of that, we plan to put a 12" thick wall of bitumen-protected CEB. For the concrete footer, rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.
====Preparing the Rebar Assembly====
Rebar Assembly for Retaining wall footer

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(9) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Scrap #4 rebar to make (1) 6’ pieces and (1) 1’1” piece
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 8’ from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 12” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut (1) 6’ and (1) 1’1” piece of #4 rebar.
#Overlap and weld (1) 20’ length of rebar to each leg.
#Measure and weld the two longer legs together so the resulting assembly is 61’6” long.
#Weld the 6’ piece of rebar between the ends of the two shorter legs so that side is 61’6” long, too.
#Weld (3) 20’ pieces of #4 rebar into an approximately 60’ length of rebar.
#Center the 60’ piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld one end at the center of one end of the rectangle.
#Position the 1’1” piece of rebar across the rectangle to support the free end of the 60’ assembly.
#Weld the short piece to the three long ones.
[[File:Rebar Assembly for Retaining wall.png|thumb|600px|center]]
====Preparing the Concrete Form====
This is a really long form - 62 feet. You don't want to put it together ahead of time and try to carry it anywhere! What you ''do'' want to do is make sure you have all the pieces you will need cut and reserved against the time you will be setting the forms up.

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(8) 2"x6"x16' boards
*(6) Pieces of 2x4 or 2x6 scrap for splicing.
*Measuring tape
*Pencil
*Saw
''Steps to do''
#Measure and mark 18" from the end of (2) 2x6x16' boards
#Cut the two 18" pieces and mark them "form ends".
#Set aside the 6 16' boards, the 14'6" boards, the form ends, and all the scrap pieces in a reserve pile.

====Setting the Concrete Form====

==CEB Columns==

[[http://ww2.unhabitat.org/programmes/housingpolicy/Images/PDF.gif|UN CEB PDF]]

[[File:Hab_Lab_Coursework_Columns.png|thumb|400px|Center]]

==CEB Arches==

[[http://ww2.unhabitat.org/programmes/housingpolicy/documents/Vault.pdf|UN Vaults PDF]]

[[http://www.amazon.com/Concrete-Hardness-Hammer-HT-225A-Portable/dp/B0049DDJCK/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1317915942&sr=8-6|Hardness Test Hammer]] for quality assurance

==CEB Floors==

[[http://www.velacreations.com/cebfloors.html|CEB Floor Instructions]]

==CEB Walls==

[[File:Hab_Lab_Coursework_Interior_Walls.png|thumb|800px|center]]

==CEB Retaining Wall==

[[File:Hab_Lab_Coursework_Retaining_Wall.png|thumb|800px|center]]

==Insulated Roof==

# 16 11-member 2x6x16' frames
# a layer of tyvek
# a layer of lathe, mounted diagonally about 18" apart
# a layer of hay bales surrounded and around 2x12 spacers
# 16 11-member 2x4x16' frames
# agricultural roof panel on top and sides

Frames are built with one 16' beam on each end of 9 other 16' beams laid on 24" centers. These roof frames can be built quite quickly at any time labor is available, preferably ahead of time so that they can be installed as soon as the columns are ready to be covered.

==Super Insulated Walls==

2.5 foot thick wall.

4x6x12 bricks laid on the 12x4" side in standard wall layup, two walls outside surfaces 2.5' apart.

With air space left on either side, bales are stacked in the center of the wall, creating super insulation between the interior and exterior.

==Heating the HabLab==

I propose a [[http://www.heatkit.com Heatkit]] masonry furnace kit, surrounded by CEB

How Not To

2011-10-27T13:27:15Z

Margaret Ida: Created page with "In every project there are caveats that should be heeded and have been discovered by those who have attempted something similiar. When do-it-yourselfers pull a real boner and mes..."

File:HabLab Planning.png

2011-10-18T02:08:11Z

Margaret Ida: uploaded a new version of "File:HabLab Planning.png"

Hab Lab

2011-10-18T01:22:56Z

Margaret Ida: /* Kitchen/Bath Water */

The need for all-weather housing to shelter year-round members of the community, located where summers can be unpleasantly hot and winters unpleasantly cold, can be met with superinsulated designs. Here we will examine some possible options and our progress in bring them into existence. Planning tools, instructions, modifications, etc. will be included.

The [[Hab Lab Design Gallery|Design Page]] is a good place to see what has been offered and to post any of your own great ideas. More ideas are great for everybody!

==Survey & Design==
The area on the property for the first group habitation was on a noticeable slope. OSE staff members worked with a home-made water level to take measurements over a 100' square area.

How to make a water level: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nAcT_1T25LM

Ideas submitted for this project are located on the [[Hab Lab Design Gallery]] page.

===Building Orientation===
Oops!
Some of our pads got set 3' South of their intended site. Here is an emergency redesign idea.
[[File:Emergency Remodel HabLab.png|thumb|800px|center]]

==Planning==
There is a lot of planning that goes into building something like this. Here is a FreeMind mind map on that. It will be updated as we do more of it. The green nodes designate things we have completed - and therefore can 'go' forward with.
[[File:HabLab Planning.png|thumb|800px|center]]
The nodes with arrows indicate those that have been created as separate mind maps. Their details will be found in the subsection to which they pertain.

===Kitchen/Bath Water===
A plan for gray water drains - includes a floor drain in the kitchen and the bathroom, 2 showers, a sink, and a laundry location in the bathroom, and a sink location in the kitchen.
[[File:Gray Water Drains.png|thumb|600px|center]]

===Utility/Storage Area===

===Heating===
[[Space_Heating]]
====Source Material====
http://dnr.mo.gov/pubs/pub781.pdf

==Site Preparation==

The Hab Lab is designed to be supported by columns built of CEB (Compressed Earth Block)which are constructed on a reinforced concrete pad. Due to the slope of our site, we designed a lowered section which requires a low retaining wall. Included here are instructions for preparing the site with adequate footings.

Here is a picture with a preliminary excavation layout for the column pad sites and the retaining wall in the Hab Lab.
*When you are laying out the excavation site, be sure to add 5' in each direction for the excavator to work to.

[[File:HabLab Excavation Layout.png|thumb|800 px|center]]
This levels diagram is from our theoretical measurements - we actually wound up with a 2' drop, not a 2'8" drop. That will make only a minor difference in raising the building - changing the size of the retaining wall and removing one or two CEB's at the top of the lower columns to maintain the planned roof pitch.
[[File:Levels Diagram for Hab Lab Site.png|thumb|800 px|center]]

==Foundations & Column Slabs==
[[File:Column Pad Form Prep.png|thumb|800px|center]]
[[File:Column Pads Completed.png|thumb|800px|center]]

===Laying out the Hab Lab excavation site to be square===
''Collect equipment and supplies needed''
*Blueprint of site plan
*(2) 100’ Measuring tapes
*4 3-4’ stakes
*Hammer
*Bright spray paint
''Steps for Staking out the excavation site.''
#Choose a spot approximately 5 feet to the North and 5 feet to the West of the area to be excavated.
#Pound in a stake and spray paint the top foot or two of it.
#Measure due East a distance 10’ longer than the foundation width (total 67’).
#Place and paint another stake.
#Calculate a distance 10’ longer than the foundation length (total 62’).
#Calculate the diagonal measurement of the excavation site [Length(squared) x Width(squared) = Diagonal(squared)] (91'4").
#Measure due South from the Northwest stake the distance calculated in step 6.
#Set the second tape measure on the Northeast stake and measure the diagonal calculated in step 7 going Southwest.
#Set your third stake where the two measured lengths meet each other.
#Paint the stake.
#Measure due South from the Northeast stake the distance calculated in step 6.
#Set the second tape measure on the Northwest stake and measure the diagonal calculated in step 7 going Southeast.
#Set your fouth stake where the two measured lengths meet each other.
#Paint the stake.

*With the site leveled, the foundation holes for the column slabs must be laid out.
*After excavation, the stone fill for the foundation goes into the holes.
*At the same time, the 6" stone floor foundation is spread.

===Concrete forms and rebar reinforcing assemblies===
These can be built well ahead of need whenever volunteers are available.
*You could set up an assembly line effect to do them all at once with several people working together.
*An individual might do one unit at a time.
*An individual might do all the wood cutting at one time, another do all the rebar cutting at another time, another do all the rebar bending at another time.
*A couple of people might work together to get some wooden forms assembled once the pieces are cut, another time, a couple of people might work together to get some rebar assemblies welded.

The following step-by-step instructions are provided for building the forms and the reinforcing rebar assemblies.

[[How to bend rebar]]

[[https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=14oCxZUjs09wGuvaL4QTAII6hRxQpy20TKv7skH3INRWAVlXqtgdrh0D2ggtl&hl=en Assembly sheet for column pad forms]]

[[https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=1_hf2n-l9rCiEss45ZC8ogtMpeQki9fCoYIFdkD5x3lCOwjGh7Gknr-POJrNB&hl=en Rebar plan for column footings]]

===Laying out the locations for the forms on top of the foundation stone===
Once the form and rebar assemblies are built and the foundation stone is in place, the string site plan lay-out must be set up for placing the forms properly over their (now invisible) foundations. If you set your hole locating strings far enough out that the excavation didn't disturb them, this will be simple. It will be even easier if you rolled up your strings before the hole excavation got done and saved them. (See comments below!)

''Collect equipment and supplies needed''
*Blueprint of site plan
*100' tape measure
*Pre-placed marking stakes around outside of foundation site.
*Rolled up pre-used string balls from foundation hole layout
''Steps for Laying out Column Pad Form locations.''
#Measure to check that all pre-placed marking stakes are properly positioned.
#If any are missing or misplaced, replace or reposition them as needed.
#Unroll and retie the strings to their corresponding stakes across the foundation site .

Here's what the layout over the stone should look like.
[[File:HabLab Column Pad Form Layout.png|thumb|600 px|center]]

-Note-
We had a great plan for this - we would set our stakes out first to mark the hole edges at 4'x4', save the strings and move the stakes in by 6" to 3'x3' for the setting the pad forms.

However, when we tried it in real life - Well...
*We lost a lot of our stakes during the excavation.
*We found the holes tended to come out bigger than we had intended them to be.
*And once the stone was laid over the site, we couldn't see where the foundation holes were located!
We wound up remeasuring and resetting most of the stakes for laying out the pad site grid.
*We dug stone out of two of corners to find the edges of the foundation holes.
*We remeasured and reset corner marking stakes inside those edges.
*We retriangulated with the diagonals to assure the foundation square.
*And we remeasured and reset stakes along all the edges.

So we've rewritten the foundation lay-out plans as they are currently posted. In the current version, we set the stakes at the 3'x3' points to start with so they don't need to be moved. We also emphasized setting them firmly - and safely outside the excavation area.

-Later Note-
More sad experience - gained while setting the floor and wall forms and found our firmly set concrete East column pads were sitting 3' further South than they should have been!

What happened -
*The outlining strings for the site were set properly and square - good.
*However, while doing all of the fixing above, we got tired and thought up a short cut. We were short on stakes and we needed to mark both the hablab and the workshop sites for form placement (our 40 forms would require us to locate and put in some 40 stakes) We could place our forms easily enough in line with the strings with only one corner marked couldn't we? (That would require placing half as many stakes!)
*We started at the NorthWest corner and measured 16' East along the North line and staked that for a line. Then another 16' East we set another stake.
*Then we went back and did the same from the NorthWest corner to the South. - and from the SouthWest corner to the East.
*Finally we went down to the lower level and marked the East line of the site ''starting at the South end of the line''. - And we ran our strings.
*Later, we were tired and losing daylight when we set the forms in place along the lines on the Hab Lab site.
I suppose this short cut could have worked if we had checked more carfully:
*Rechecking the placement measurements is an obvious one.
*Standing back and looking for parallel lines is another obvious one.
*Looking for a cause when it was difficult to align the squarely built pads with the crossed strings would have been another solution.

So this is the layout we are actually working with now!
[[File:Oops HabLab Column Pad Form Layout.png|thumb|600px|center]]

We decided that an emergency floor plan change we came up with should compensate for this without having to redo most of the column pads. As we run into more complications, we'll post on them!

===Setting the column pad forms===
''Collect equipment and supplies needed''
*Supplies
**16 Pre-built column pad forms
**80 form stakes (we used 2"x2"x18" wooden stakes)
*Equipment
**Heavy Hammer(s)
**4'spirit Level
**Water level
**tape measure
''Steps to place Column Pad forms''
#Use with the center pad site on the upper level as the reference pad.
#Set a pre-built column pad form in place under the string lines with the inside of the forms under the strings.
#Drive two form stakes next to the outside of one side and one on each of the other three sides. They will need to sit deep enough that the tops of the stakes will be level with (or lower than) the top of the form.
#Level the form.
##Screw one of the stakes (on the side with two) to the side of the form so that the form sits 1/2" above the gravel level. Be sure that the top of the stake is level with (or lower than) the top of the form.
##Use the spirit level to set this side of the form level and screw it in position.
##Use the spirit level to set the opposite side of the form at the same level.
##Check the level on the other two sides and screw them in place.
#Use the water level to set the first level on each of the other pads on the upper level.
#Repeat the remainder of the leveling steps for each form.
#Use the water level to set the level of the center form in the lower level at 24" lower than the upper level pads.
#Complete the leveling steps for this form.
#Use the center form on the lower level for a reference form to set and level the remaining lower level column pad forms.

[[File:Setting Column Pad Forms Diagram.png|thumb|600 px|center]]

===Preparing Column Pad Forms for Reinforced Concrete===
Collect equipment and supplies needed
*Supplies
**16 Pre-built column pad rebar assemblies
**64 rebar chairs
*Equipment
**Rake(s)
**shovel
**tape measure
#Use a rake and shovel to remove about 2" of stone from the inside of the form. (until is 6" deep)
#Pack removed stone around outside of forms to create a fully enclosed 6" deep form.
#Use one prebuilt column pad rebar assembly for each column pad site.
#Center the rebar assembly with 3” gap between assembly and form wall on every side.
#Set rebar chairs under corners of prebuilt column pad rebar assemblies.-Put a stone or some gravel under the chairs if needed to center the rebar so it will sit at about the middle of the finished slab (3" off the floor of the form).

[[File:Preparing Column Pad Sites for Concrete Pouring.png|thumb|600 px|center]]

==Concrete Work==
We are preparing to do the big concrete pour. Using the FreeMind mind map model, this is the node that outlines the dependencies so we can be ready for that. Following sections include instructions for accomplishing them.
[[File:Dependencies for Getting Floors Poured.png|thumb|800px|center]]
Here is the mindmap updated after the all the concrete was poured.
[[File:Concrete Floors Poured.png|thumb|800px|center]]

Here is the planning layout for the concrete - which we are planning to do in one great big pour. We'll let you know how it goes!
[[File:HabLab Concrete Forms Layout.png|800px|center]]

===Insulated Outside Wall Support Slabs===
We are planning to put reinforced concrete the full 3' width of the Column Support Pads all the way around the outside of the building. They will be 3-1/2" (2x4 lumber size) deep and will support the two CEB walls that enclose the hay bale insulation. Rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.

====Preparing the rebar reinforcement assemblies====
[[How to bend rebar]]

Rebar Assembly for 13’ Outside Wall pads (make 11 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’6” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 6’4” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 12’6” by 2’6” dimensions.
#Measure and cut (1) 20’ piece of #4 rebar to 12’7” in length.
#Center the 12’7” piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld it into place.
[[File:Rebar for outside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

Rebar Assembly for 9’6” Outside Wall pads (make 2 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 4’7” from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’6” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 4’7” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 9’ by 2’6” dimensions.
#Measure and cut (1) 20’ piece of #4 rebar to 9’1” in length.
#Center the 9’1” piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld it into place.
[[File:Rebar for 9.5' outside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

Rebar Assembly for 7' Outside Wall pads (make 2 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 3’4” from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’6” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 3’4” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 6’6” by 2’6” dimensions.
#Measure and cut (1) 20’ piece of #4 rebar to 6'7" in length.
#Center the 6'7" piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld it into place.
[[File:Rebar for 7' outside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

====Preparing the concrete forms====
Our pouring plan requires these forms relating to the outside wall construction. For those wall pads that are part of our interior pads, additional forms are in other sections. If you are not pouring large interior pads, you will need to adjust the number of interior forms.

Exterior Forms for 13' Wall slabs. (make 10 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(2) 2"x4"x7' pine studs
*(1) piece of scrap lumber,
*(4) 3" screws
*Driver
''Steps to do:''
#Start two screws into the flat side of each end of the piece of scrap lumber.
#Butt the two 7' boards end to end
#Lay the piece of scrap lumber over the seam butt joint.
#Be sure the narrow sides of the boards are lined up evenly with each other.
#Drive the screws in completely to hold the boards in line.

Interior Forms for 13' Wall slabs. (make 5 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(2) 2"x4"x7' pine studs
*Measuring tape
*Pencil
*Saw
*(4) 3" screws
*Driver
''Steps to do:''
#Measure, mark, and cut one board to be 6' long.
#Start two screws into the flat side of each end of the 1' piece of scrap lumber.
#Butt the 6' piece with the other 7' board end to end
#Lay the piece of scrap lumber over the seam butt joint.
#Be sure the narrow sides of the boards are lined up evenly with each other.
#Drive the screws in completely to hold the boards in line.

Forms for Wall slabs on split-level section

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(6) 2"x4"x7' pine studs
*(4) 2"x4"x10' pine studs
*Measuring tape
*Pencil
*Saw
''Steps to do:''
#Measure, mark, and cut (2) 7' boards to be 6' long.
#Measure, mark, and cut (2) 10' boards to be 9'6" long.
#You will use the other boards uncut.

[[File:Exterior Wall Form Boards.png|thumb|600px|center]]

====Setting the forms====

===Narrow Wall Support Slabs===
We will support and stabilize the interior CEB walls with a 12" wide x 3-1/2" deep concrete slab. Rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.

====Preparing Rebar reinforcement assemblies====
Rebar Assembly for all 12” interior wall slabs

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(10) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 3’4” from one end.
#Bend 180⁰ the rebar with a 3” radius.
#Measure and mark so another 180⁰ with a 3” radius will produce 6’6” long assemblies.
#Cut the extra rebar (about 7’) off, leaving enough to tack weld each assembly together.

#Measure and mark (4) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 4’4” from the end.
#Bend 180⁰ with a 3” radius.
#Measure and mark so another 180⁰ with a 3” radius will produce 8’6” long assemblies.
#Cut the extra rebar off, leaving enough to tack weld each assembly together.

#Measure and mark (4) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” from the end.
#Bend 180⁰ with a 3” radius.
#Measure and mark so another 180⁰ with a 3” radius will produce 12’6” long assemblies.
#Use scrap cuttings (about 7’ long) to bridge the gap for each of these assemblies.
[[File:Rebar for 1' inside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

====Preparing the Concrete Forms====
These 12" wide slabs will provide a firm foundation on which to build our interior CEB room-dividing walls. Mostly they use the same sizes of forms you used for the outside walls. If you are pouring in small stages, you won't have build more forms because you can reuse the ones from the outside wall slabs. If you are going to pour all the concrete at once, you will need 7 more of the 13' inside form assemblies, 4 more uncut 7' boards, 2 more 7' boards cut to 6' lengths, 6 more boards cut to 9'6", and two boards cut to 9' in length.
Instructions for preparing all of these boards are found above - in the [[#Insulated Outside Wall Support Slabs/Preparing the Concrete Forms|Outside Wall Slabs]] section.

====Setting the Forms====

===Kitchen and Bath Areas===
The Kitchen and Bath Floor Areas both have a potential for receiving noticeable amounts of water. We consider it advisable to pave them both with concrete and include a central drain. Rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.
====Preparing the Rebar Assemblies====
Rebar Assembly for 16’x13’ slabs (make 2 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (4) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” from the end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Cut the long ends to 7’10” long.
#Overlap the short ends of two L-shaped pieces and measure to make a U shaped assembly with 12’6” between the legs.
#Make two of these assemblies.
#Overlap the legs of the U-shaped assemblies to make a rectangle measuring 15’6” x 12’6”
#Measure and cut (5) pieces of #4 rebar to 15’7” long.
#Measure and cut (7) pieces of #4 rebar to 12’7” long.
#Space and position the cut pieces into a 24” grid across the rectangle.
[[File:Rebar for between big slabs.png|thumb|600px|center]]

#Weld them into place.
[[File:Rebar for 16x13 slab.png|thumb|600px|center]]

There is one more assembly to go into this section between the two big ones. It is a modification of the exterior wall slab reinforcements.

Rebar Assembly for Interior 13’x3’ section of big Slab

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(2) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” #from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’ between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 6’4” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 12’6” by 2’ dimensions.

====Preparing the Concrete forms====
Because we are pouring this all at once, we decided to eliminate some complicated form work by including the equipment area and one room in this slab. This will be a big pour of concrete. It requires about 5 cubic yards of concrete. If you have plenty of time and are working in small batches, you can save over a yard of concrete by building the interior wall forms and pouring only wall-support pads - as shown on the layout.

The large slabs are laid between column pads, using 13' interior form assemblies. If you are pouring all at once, you will need two more of these assemblies, one more board cut to 9'6", and a piece of scrap about 3' long to complete the form work for this area. This, of course, assumes that you already have the exterior forms for the exterior wall slabs prepared. Instructions for preparing all of these are above in the [[#Insulated Outside Wall Support Slabs/Preparing the Concrete Forms|Outside Wall Slabs]]
section.
====Setting the Forms====

===Retaining Wall for Lower Level===
Ideas for this wall have been through several iterations. At present (Oct. 10th), we are planning to lay a 6" footer, 18" wide and 62' long. On top of that, we plan to put a 12" thick wall of bitumen-protected CEB. For the concrete footer, rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.
====Preparing the Rebar Assembly====
Rebar Assembly for Retaining wall footer

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(9) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Scrap #4 rebar to make (1) 6’ pieces and (1) 1’1” piece
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 8’ from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 12” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut (1) 6’ and (1) 1’1” piece of #4 rebar.
#Overlap and weld (1) 20’ length of rebar to each leg.
#Measure and weld the two longer legs together so the resulting assembly is 61’6” long.
#Weld the 6’ piece of rebar between the ends of the two shorter legs so that side is 61’6” long, too.
#Weld (3) 20’ pieces of #4 rebar into an approximately 60’ length of rebar.
#Center the 60’ piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld one end at the center of one end of the rectangle.
#Position the 1’1” piece of rebar across the rectangle to support the free end of the 60’ assembly.
#Weld the short piece to the three long ones.
[[File:Rebar Assembly for Retaining wall.png|thumb|600px|center]]
====Preparing the Concrete Form====
This is a really long form - 62 feet. You don't want to put it together ahead of time and try to carry it anywhere! What you ''do'' want to do is make sure you have all the pieces you will need cut and reserved against the time you will be setting the forms up.

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(8) 2"x6"x16' boards
*(6) Pieces of 2x4 or 2x6 scrap for splicing.
*Measuring tape
*Pencil
*Saw
''Steps to do''
#Measure and mark 18" from the end of (2) 2x6x16' boards
#Cut the two 18" pieces and mark them "form ends".
#Set aside the 6 16' boards, the 14'6" boards, the form ends, and all the scrap pieces in a reserve pile.

====Setting the Concrete Form====

==CEB Columns==

[[http://ww2.unhabitat.org/programmes/housingpolicy/Images/PDF.gif|UN CEB PDF]]

==CEB Arches==

[[http://ww2.unhabitat.org/programmes/housingpolicy/documents/Vault.pdf|UN Vaults PDF]]

[[http://www.amazon.com/Concrete-Hardness-Hammer-HT-225A-Portable/dp/B0049DDJCK/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1317915942&sr=8-6|Hardness Test Hammer]] for quality assurance

==CEB Floors==

[[http://www.velacreations.com/cebfloors.html|CEB Floor Instructions]]

==Insulated Roof==

# 16 11-member 2x6x16' frames
# a layer of tyvek
# a layer of lathe, mounted diagonally about 18" apart
# a layer of hay bales surrounded and around 2x12 spacers
# 16 11-member 2x4x16' frames
# agricultural roof panel on top and sides

Frames are built with one 16' beam on each end of 9 other 16' beams laid on 24" centers. These roof frames can be built quite quickly at any time labor is available, preferably ahead of time so that they can be installed as soon as the columns are ready to be covered.

==Super Insulated Walls==

2.5 foot thick wall.

4x6x12 bricks laid on the 12x4" side in standard wall layup, two walls outside surfaces 2.5' apart.

With air space left on either side, bales are stacked in the center of the wall, creating super insulation between the interior and exterior.

==Heating the HabLab==

I propose a [[http://www.heatkit.com Heatkit]] masonry furnace kit, surrounded by CEB

File:Gray Water Drains.png

2011-10-18T01:14:57Z

Margaret Ida:

Hab Lab

2011-10-18T00:37:52Z

Margaret Ida: /* Concrete Work */

The need for all-weather housing to shelter year-round members of the community, located where summers can be unpleasantly hot and winters unpleasantly cold, can be met with superinsulated designs. Here we will examine some possible options and our progress in bring them into existence. Planning tools, instructions, modifications, etc. will be included.

The [[Hab Lab Design Gallery|Design Page]] is a good place to see what has been offered and to post any of your own great ideas. More ideas are great for everybody!

==Survey & Design==
The area on the property for the first group habitation was on a noticeable slope. OSE staff members worked with a home-made water level to take measurements over a 100' square area.

How to make a water level: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nAcT_1T25LM

Ideas submitted for this project are located on the [[Hab Lab Design Gallery]] page.

===Building Orientation===
Oops!
Some of our pads got set 3' South of their intended site. Here is an emergency redesign idea.
[[File:Emergency Remodel HabLab.png|thumb|800px|center]]

==Planning==
There is a lot of planning that goes into building something like this. Here is a FreeMind mind map on that. It will be updated as we do more of it. The green nodes designate things we have completed - and therefore can 'go' forward with.
[[File:HabLab Planning.png|thumb|800px|center]]
The nodes with arrows indicate those that have been created as separate mind maps. Their details will be found in the subsection to which they pertain.

===Kitchen/Bath Water===

===Utility/Storage Area===

===Heating===
[[Space_Heating]]
====Source Material====
http://dnr.mo.gov/pubs/pub781.pdf

==Site Preparation==

The Hab Lab is designed to be supported by columns built of CEB (Compressed Earth Block)which are constructed on a reinforced concrete pad. Due to the slope of our site, we designed a lowered section which requires a low retaining wall. Included here are instructions for preparing the site with adequate footings.

Here is a picture with a preliminary excavation layout for the column pad sites and the retaining wall in the Hab Lab.
*When you are laying out the excavation site, be sure to add 5' in each direction for the excavator to work to.

[[File:HabLab Excavation Layout.png|thumb|800 px|center]]
This levels diagram is from our theoretical measurements - we actually wound up with a 2' drop, not a 2'8" drop. That will make only a minor difference in raising the building - changing the size of the retaining wall and removing one or two CEB's at the top of the lower columns to maintain the planned roof pitch.
[[File:Levels Diagram for Hab Lab Site.png|thumb|800 px|center]]

==Foundations & Column Slabs==
[[File:Column Pad Form Prep.png|thumb|800px|center]]
[[File:Column Pads Completed.png|thumb|800px|center]]

===Laying out the Hab Lab excavation site to be square===
''Collect equipment and supplies needed''
*Blueprint of site plan
*(2) 100’ Measuring tapes
*4 3-4’ stakes
*Hammer
*Bright spray paint
''Steps for Staking out the excavation site.''
#Choose a spot approximately 5 feet to the North and 5 feet to the West of the area to be excavated.
#Pound in a stake and spray paint the top foot or two of it.
#Measure due East a distance 10’ longer than the foundation width (total 67’).
#Place and paint another stake.
#Calculate a distance 10’ longer than the foundation length (total 62’).
#Calculate the diagonal measurement of the excavation site [Length(squared) x Width(squared) = Diagonal(squared)] (91'4").
#Measure due South from the Northwest stake the distance calculated in step 6.
#Set the second tape measure on the Northeast stake and measure the diagonal calculated in step 7 going Southwest.
#Set your third stake where the two measured lengths meet each other.
#Paint the stake.
#Measure due South from the Northeast stake the distance calculated in step 6.
#Set the second tape measure on the Northwest stake and measure the diagonal calculated in step 7 going Southeast.
#Set your fouth stake where the two measured lengths meet each other.
#Paint the stake.

*With the site leveled, the foundation holes for the column slabs must be laid out.
*After excavation, the stone fill for the foundation goes into the holes.
*At the same time, the 6" stone floor foundation is spread.

===Concrete forms and rebar reinforcing assemblies===
These can be built well ahead of need whenever volunteers are available.
*You could set up an assembly line effect to do them all at once with several people working together.
*An individual might do one unit at a time.
*An individual might do all the wood cutting at one time, another do all the rebar cutting at another time, another do all the rebar bending at another time.
*A couple of people might work together to get some wooden forms assembled once the pieces are cut, another time, a couple of people might work together to get some rebar assemblies welded.

The following step-by-step instructions are provided for building the forms and the reinforcing rebar assemblies.

[[How to bend rebar]]

[[https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=14oCxZUjs09wGuvaL4QTAII6hRxQpy20TKv7skH3INRWAVlXqtgdrh0D2ggtl&hl=en Assembly sheet for column pad forms]]

[[https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=1_hf2n-l9rCiEss45ZC8ogtMpeQki9fCoYIFdkD5x3lCOwjGh7Gknr-POJrNB&hl=en Rebar plan for column footings]]

===Laying out the locations for the forms on top of the foundation stone===
Once the form and rebar assemblies are built and the foundation stone is in place, the string site plan lay-out must be set up for placing the forms properly over their (now invisible) foundations. If you set your hole locating strings far enough out that the excavation didn't disturb them, this will be simple. It will be even easier if you rolled up your strings before the hole excavation got done and saved them. (See comments below!)

''Collect equipment and supplies needed''
*Blueprint of site plan
*100' tape measure
*Pre-placed marking stakes around outside of foundation site.
*Rolled up pre-used string balls from foundation hole layout
''Steps for Laying out Column Pad Form locations.''
#Measure to check that all pre-placed marking stakes are properly positioned.
#If any are missing or misplaced, replace or reposition them as needed.
#Unroll and retie the strings to their corresponding stakes across the foundation site .

Here's what the layout over the stone should look like.
[[File:HabLab Column Pad Form Layout.png|thumb|600 px|center]]

-Note-
We had a great plan for this - we would set our stakes out first to mark the hole edges at 4'x4', save the strings and move the stakes in by 6" to 3'x3' for the setting the pad forms.

However, when we tried it in real life - Well...
*We lost a lot of our stakes during the excavation.
*We found the holes tended to come out bigger than we had intended them to be.
*And once the stone was laid over the site, we couldn't see where the foundation holes were located!
We wound up remeasuring and resetting most of the stakes for laying out the pad site grid.
*We dug stone out of two of corners to find the edges of the foundation holes.
*We remeasured and reset corner marking stakes inside those edges.
*We retriangulated with the diagonals to assure the foundation square.
*And we remeasured and reset stakes along all the edges.

So we've rewritten the foundation lay-out plans as they are currently posted. In the current version, we set the stakes at the 3'x3' points to start with so they don't need to be moved. We also emphasized setting them firmly - and safely outside the excavation area.

-Later Note-
More sad experience - gained while setting the floor and wall forms and found our firmly set concrete East column pads were sitting 3' further South than they should have been!

What happened -
*The outlining strings for the site were set properly and square - good.
*However, while doing all of the fixing above, we got tired and thought up a short cut. We were short on stakes and we needed to mark both the hablab and the workshop sites for form placement (our 40 forms would require us to locate and put in some 40 stakes) We could place our forms easily enough in line with the strings with only one corner marked couldn't we? (That would require placing half as many stakes!)
*We started at the NorthWest corner and measured 16' East along the North line and staked that for a line. Then another 16' East we set another stake.
*Then we went back and did the same from the NorthWest corner to the South. - and from the SouthWest corner to the East.
*Finally we went down to the lower level and marked the East line of the site ''starting at the South end of the line''. - And we ran our strings.
*Later, we were tired and losing daylight when we set the forms in place along the lines on the Hab Lab site.
I suppose this short cut could have worked if we had checked more carfully:
*Rechecking the placement measurements is an obvious one.
*Standing back and looking for parallel lines is another obvious one.
*Looking for a cause when it was difficult to align the squarely built pads with the crossed strings would have been another solution.

So this is the layout we are actually working with now!
[[File:Oops HabLab Column Pad Form Layout.png|thumb|600px|center]]

We decided that an emergency floor plan change we came up with should compensate for this without having to redo most of the column pads. As we run into more complications, we'll post on them!

===Setting the column pad forms===
''Collect equipment and supplies needed''
*Supplies
**16 Pre-built column pad forms
**80 form stakes (we used 2"x2"x18" wooden stakes)
*Equipment
**Heavy Hammer(s)
**4'spirit Level
**Water level
**tape measure
''Steps to place Column Pad forms''
#Use with the center pad site on the upper level as the reference pad.
#Set a pre-built column pad form in place under the string lines with the inside of the forms under the strings.
#Drive two form stakes next to the outside of one side and one on each of the other three sides. They will need to sit deep enough that the tops of the stakes will be level with (or lower than) the top of the form.
#Level the form.
##Screw one of the stakes (on the side with two) to the side of the form so that the form sits 1/2" above the gravel level. Be sure that the top of the stake is level with (or lower than) the top of the form.
##Use the spirit level to set this side of the form level and screw it in position.
##Use the spirit level to set the opposite side of the form at the same level.
##Check the level on the other two sides and screw them in place.
#Use the water level to set the first level on each of the other pads on the upper level.
#Repeat the remainder of the leveling steps for each form.
#Use the water level to set the level of the center form in the lower level at 24" lower than the upper level pads.
#Complete the leveling steps for this form.
#Use the center form on the lower level for a reference form to set and level the remaining lower level column pad forms.

[[File:Setting Column Pad Forms Diagram.png|thumb|600 px|center]]

===Preparing Column Pad Forms for Reinforced Concrete===
Collect equipment and supplies needed
*Supplies
**16 Pre-built column pad rebar assemblies
**64 rebar chairs
*Equipment
**Rake(s)
**shovel
**tape measure
#Use a rake and shovel to remove about 2" of stone from the inside of the form. (until is 6" deep)
#Pack removed stone around outside of forms to create a fully enclosed 6" deep form.
#Use one prebuilt column pad rebar assembly for each column pad site.
#Center the rebar assembly with 3” gap between assembly and form wall on every side.
#Set rebar chairs under corners of prebuilt column pad rebar assemblies.-Put a stone or some gravel under the chairs if needed to center the rebar so it will sit at about the middle of the finished slab (3" off the floor of the form).

[[File:Preparing Column Pad Sites for Concrete Pouring.png|thumb|600 px|center]]

==Concrete Work==
We are preparing to do the big concrete pour. Using the FreeMind mind map model, this is the node that outlines the dependencies so we can be ready for that. Following sections include instructions for accomplishing them.
[[File:Dependencies for Getting Floors Poured.png|thumb|800px|center]]
Here is the mindmap updated after the all the concrete was poured.
[[File:Concrete Floors Poured.png|thumb|800px|center]]

Here is the planning layout for the concrete - which we are planning to do in one great big pour. We'll let you know how it goes!
[[File:HabLab Concrete Forms Layout.png|800px|center]]

===Insulated Outside Wall Support Slabs===
We are planning to put reinforced concrete the full 3' width of the Column Support Pads all the way around the outside of the building. They will be 3-1/2" (2x4 lumber size) deep and will support the two CEB walls that enclose the hay bale insulation. Rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.

====Preparing the rebar reinforcement assemblies====
[[How to bend rebar]]

Rebar Assembly for 13’ Outside Wall pads (make 11 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’6” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 6’4” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 12’6” by 2’6” dimensions.
#Measure and cut (1) 20’ piece of #4 rebar to 12’7” in length.
#Center the 12’7” piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld it into place.
[[File:Rebar for outside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

Rebar Assembly for 9’6” Outside Wall pads (make 2 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 4’7” from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’6” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 4’7” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 9’ by 2’6” dimensions.
#Measure and cut (1) 20’ piece of #4 rebar to 9’1” in length.
#Center the 9’1” piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld it into place.
[[File:Rebar for 9.5' outside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

Rebar Assembly for 7' Outside Wall pads (make 2 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 3’4” from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’6” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 3’4” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 6’6” by 2’6” dimensions.
#Measure and cut (1) 20’ piece of #4 rebar to 6'7" in length.
#Center the 6'7" piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld it into place.
[[File:Rebar for 7' outside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

====Preparing the concrete forms====
Our pouring plan requires these forms relating to the outside wall construction. For those wall pads that are part of our interior pads, additional forms are in other sections. If you are not pouring large interior pads, you will need to adjust the number of interior forms.

Exterior Forms for 13' Wall slabs. (make 10 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(2) 2"x4"x7' pine studs
*(1) piece of scrap lumber,
*(4) 3" screws
*Driver
''Steps to do:''
#Start two screws into the flat side of each end of the piece of scrap lumber.
#Butt the two 7' boards end to end
#Lay the piece of scrap lumber over the seam butt joint.
#Be sure the narrow sides of the boards are lined up evenly with each other.
#Drive the screws in completely to hold the boards in line.

Interior Forms for 13' Wall slabs. (make 5 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(2) 2"x4"x7' pine studs
*Measuring tape
*Pencil
*Saw
*(4) 3" screws
*Driver
''Steps to do:''
#Measure, mark, and cut one board to be 6' long.
#Start two screws into the flat side of each end of the 1' piece of scrap lumber.
#Butt the 6' piece with the other 7' board end to end
#Lay the piece of scrap lumber over the seam butt joint.
#Be sure the narrow sides of the boards are lined up evenly with each other.
#Drive the screws in completely to hold the boards in line.

Forms for Wall slabs on split-level section

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(6) 2"x4"x7' pine studs
*(4) 2"x4"x10' pine studs
*Measuring tape
*Pencil
*Saw
''Steps to do:''
#Measure, mark, and cut (2) 7' boards to be 6' long.
#Measure, mark, and cut (2) 10' boards to be 9'6" long.
#You will use the other boards uncut.

[[File:Exterior Wall Form Boards.png|thumb|600px|center]]

====Setting the forms====

===Narrow Wall Support Slabs===
We will support and stabilize the interior CEB walls with a 12" wide x 3-1/2" deep concrete slab. Rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.

====Preparing Rebar reinforcement assemblies====
Rebar Assembly for all 12” interior wall slabs

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(10) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 3’4” from one end.
#Bend 180⁰ the rebar with a 3” radius.
#Measure and mark so another 180⁰ with a 3” radius will produce 6’6” long assemblies.
#Cut the extra rebar (about 7’) off, leaving enough to tack weld each assembly together.

#Measure and mark (4) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 4’4” from the end.
#Bend 180⁰ with a 3” radius.
#Measure and mark so another 180⁰ with a 3” radius will produce 8’6” long assemblies.
#Cut the extra rebar off, leaving enough to tack weld each assembly together.

#Measure and mark (4) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” from the end.
#Bend 180⁰ with a 3” radius.
#Measure and mark so another 180⁰ with a 3” radius will produce 12’6” long assemblies.
#Use scrap cuttings (about 7’ long) to bridge the gap for each of these assemblies.
[[File:Rebar for 1' inside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

====Preparing the Concrete Forms====
These 12" wide slabs will provide a firm foundation on which to build our interior CEB room-dividing walls. Mostly they use the same sizes of forms you used for the outside walls. If you are pouring in small stages, you won't have build more forms because you can reuse the ones from the outside wall slabs. If you are going to pour all the concrete at once, you will need 7 more of the 13' inside form assemblies, 4 more uncut 7' boards, 2 more 7' boards cut to 6' lengths, 6 more boards cut to 9'6", and two boards cut to 9' in length.
Instructions for preparing all of these boards are found above - in the [[#Insulated Outside Wall Support Slabs/Preparing the Concrete Forms|Outside Wall Slabs]] section.

====Setting the Forms====

===Kitchen and Bath Areas===
The Kitchen and Bath Floor Areas both have a potential for receiving noticeable amounts of water. We consider it advisable to pave them both with concrete and include a central drain. Rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.
====Preparing the Rebar Assemblies====
Rebar Assembly for 16’x13’ slabs (make 2 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (4) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” from the end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Cut the long ends to 7’10” long.
#Overlap the short ends of two L-shaped pieces and measure to make a U shaped assembly with 12’6” between the legs.
#Make two of these assemblies.
#Overlap the legs of the U-shaped assemblies to make a rectangle measuring 15’6” x 12’6”
#Measure and cut (5) pieces of #4 rebar to 15’7” long.
#Measure and cut (7) pieces of #4 rebar to 12’7” long.
#Space and position the cut pieces into a 24” grid across the rectangle.
[[File:Rebar for between big slabs.png|thumb|600px|center]]

#Weld them into place.
[[File:Rebar for 16x13 slab.png|thumb|600px|center]]

There is one more assembly to go into this section between the two big ones. It is a modification of the exterior wall slab reinforcements.

Rebar Assembly for Interior 13’x3’ section of big Slab

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(2) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” #from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’ between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 6’4” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 12’6” by 2’ dimensions.

====Preparing the Concrete forms====
Because we are pouring this all at once, we decided to eliminate some complicated form work by including the equipment area and one room in this slab. This will be a big pour of concrete. It requires about 5 cubic yards of concrete. If you have plenty of time and are working in small batches, you can save over a yard of concrete by building the interior wall forms and pouring only wall-support pads - as shown on the layout.

The large slabs are laid between column pads, using 13' interior form assemblies. If you are pouring all at once, you will need two more of these assemblies, one more board cut to 9'6", and a piece of scrap about 3' long to complete the form work for this area. This, of course, assumes that you already have the exterior forms for the exterior wall slabs prepared. Instructions for preparing all of these are above in the [[#Insulated Outside Wall Support Slabs/Preparing the Concrete Forms|Outside Wall Slabs]]
section.
====Setting the Forms====

===Retaining Wall for Lower Level===
Ideas for this wall have been through several iterations. At present (Oct. 10th), we are planning to lay a 6" footer, 18" wide and 62' long. On top of that, we plan to put a 12" thick wall of bitumen-protected CEB. For the concrete footer, rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.
====Preparing the Rebar Assembly====
Rebar Assembly for Retaining wall footer

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(9) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Scrap #4 rebar to make (1) 6’ pieces and (1) 1’1” piece
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 8’ from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 12” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut (1) 6’ and (1) 1’1” piece of #4 rebar.
#Overlap and weld (1) 20’ length of rebar to each leg.
#Measure and weld the two longer legs together so the resulting assembly is 61’6” long.
#Weld the 6’ piece of rebar between the ends of the two shorter legs so that side is 61’6” long, too.
#Weld (3) 20’ pieces of #4 rebar into an approximately 60’ length of rebar.
#Center the 60’ piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld one end at the center of one end of the rectangle.
#Position the 1’1” piece of rebar across the rectangle to support the free end of the 60’ assembly.
#Weld the short piece to the three long ones.
[[File:Rebar Assembly for Retaining wall.png|thumb|600px|center]]
====Preparing the Concrete Form====
This is a really long form - 62 feet. You don't want to put it together ahead of time and try to carry it anywhere! What you ''do'' want to do is make sure you have all the pieces you will need cut and reserved against the time you will be setting the forms up.

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(8) 2"x6"x16' boards
*(6) Pieces of 2x4 or 2x6 scrap for splicing.
*Measuring tape
*Pencil
*Saw
''Steps to do''
#Measure and mark 18" from the end of (2) 2x6x16' boards
#Cut the two 18" pieces and mark them "form ends".
#Set aside the 6 16' boards, the 14'6" boards, the form ends, and all the scrap pieces in a reserve pile.

====Setting the Concrete Form====

==CEB Columns==

[[http://ww2.unhabitat.org/programmes/housingpolicy/Images/PDF.gif|UN CEB PDF]]

==CEB Arches==

[[http://ww2.unhabitat.org/programmes/housingpolicy/documents/Vault.pdf|UN Vaults PDF]]

[[http://www.amazon.com/Concrete-Hardness-Hammer-HT-225A-Portable/dp/B0049DDJCK/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1317915942&sr=8-6|Hardness Test Hammer]] for quality assurance

==CEB Floors==

[[http://www.velacreations.com/cebfloors.html|CEB Floor Instructions]]

==Insulated Roof==

# 16 11-member 2x6x16' frames
# a layer of tyvek
# a layer of lathe, mounted diagonally about 18" apart
# a layer of hay bales surrounded and around 2x12 spacers
# 16 11-member 2x4x16' frames
# agricultural roof panel on top and sides

Frames are built with one 16' beam on each end of 9 other 16' beams laid on 24" centers. These roof frames can be built quite quickly at any time labor is available, preferably ahead of time so that they can be installed as soon as the columns are ready to be covered.

==Super Insulated Walls==

2.5 foot thick wall.

4x6x12 bricks laid on the 12x4" side in standard wall layup, two walls outside surfaces 2.5' apart.

With air space left on either side, bales are stacked in the center of the wall, creating super insulation between the interior and exterior.

==Heating the HabLab==

I propose a [[http://www.heatkit.com Heatkit]] masonry furnace kit, surrounded by CEB

File:Concrete Floors Poured.png

2011-10-18T00:33:24Z

Margaret Ida:

File:Column Pads Completed.png

2011-10-17T23:20:48Z

Margaret Ida: uploaded a new version of "File:Column Pads Completed.png"

Hab Lab

2011-10-17T23:19:11Z

Margaret Ida: /* Foundations & Column Slabs */

The need for all-weather housing to shelter year-round members of the community, located where summers can be unpleasantly hot and winters unpleasantly cold, can be met with superinsulated designs. Here we will examine some possible options and our progress in bring them into existence. Planning tools, instructions, modifications, etc. will be included.

The [[Hab Lab Design Gallery|Design Page]] is a good place to see what has been offered and to post any of your own great ideas. More ideas are great for everybody!

==Survey & Design==
The area on the property for the first group habitation was on a noticeable slope. OSE staff members worked with a home-made water level to take measurements over a 100' square area.

How to make a water level: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nAcT_1T25LM

Ideas submitted for this project are located on the [[Hab Lab Design Gallery]] page.

===Building Orientation===
Oops!
Some of our pads got set 3' South of their intended site. Here is an emergency redesign idea.
[[File:Emergency Remodel HabLab.png|thumb|800px|center]]

==Planning==
There is a lot of planning that goes into building something like this. Here is a FreeMind mind map on that. It will be updated as we do more of it. The green nodes designate things we have completed - and therefore can 'go' forward with.
[[File:HabLab Planning.png|thumb|800px|center]]
The nodes with arrows indicate those that have been created as separate mind maps. Their details will be found in the subsection to which they pertain.

===Kitchen/Bath Water===

===Utility/Storage Area===

===Heating===
[[Space_Heating]]
====Source Material====
http://dnr.mo.gov/pubs/pub781.pdf

==Site Preparation==

The Hab Lab is designed to be supported by columns built of CEB (Compressed Earth Block)which are constructed on a reinforced concrete pad. Due to the slope of our site, we designed a lowered section which requires a low retaining wall. Included here are instructions for preparing the site with adequate footings.

Here is a picture with a preliminary excavation layout for the column pad sites and the retaining wall in the Hab Lab.
*When you are laying out the excavation site, be sure to add 5' in each direction for the excavator to work to.

[[File:HabLab Excavation Layout.png|thumb|800 px|center]]
This levels diagram is from our theoretical measurements - we actually wound up with a 2' drop, not a 2'8" drop. That will make only a minor difference in raising the building - changing the size of the retaining wall and removing one or two CEB's at the top of the lower columns to maintain the planned roof pitch.
[[File:Levels Diagram for Hab Lab Site.png|thumb|800 px|center]]

==Foundations & Column Slabs==
[[File:Column Pad Form Prep.png|thumb|800px|center]]
[[File:Column Pads Completed.png|thumb|800px|center]]

===Laying out the Hab Lab excavation site to be square===
''Collect equipment and supplies needed''
*Blueprint of site plan
*(2) 100’ Measuring tapes
*4 3-4’ stakes
*Hammer
*Bright spray paint
''Steps for Staking out the excavation site.''
#Choose a spot approximately 5 feet to the North and 5 feet to the West of the area to be excavated.
#Pound in a stake and spray paint the top foot or two of it.
#Measure due East a distance 10’ longer than the foundation width (total 67’).
#Place and paint another stake.
#Calculate a distance 10’ longer than the foundation length (total 62’).
#Calculate the diagonal measurement of the excavation site [Length(squared) x Width(squared) = Diagonal(squared)] (91'4").
#Measure due South from the Northwest stake the distance calculated in step 6.
#Set the second tape measure on the Northeast stake and measure the diagonal calculated in step 7 going Southwest.
#Set your third stake where the two measured lengths meet each other.
#Paint the stake.
#Measure due South from the Northeast stake the distance calculated in step 6.
#Set the second tape measure on the Northwest stake and measure the diagonal calculated in step 7 going Southeast.
#Set your fouth stake where the two measured lengths meet each other.
#Paint the stake.

*With the site leveled, the foundation holes for the column slabs must be laid out.
*After excavation, the stone fill for the foundation goes into the holes.
*At the same time, the 6" stone floor foundation is spread.

===Concrete forms and rebar reinforcing assemblies===
These can be built well ahead of need whenever volunteers are available.
*You could set up an assembly line effect to do them all at once with several people working together.
*An individual might do one unit at a time.
*An individual might do all the wood cutting at one time, another do all the rebar cutting at another time, another do all the rebar bending at another time.
*A couple of people might work together to get some wooden forms assembled once the pieces are cut, another time, a couple of people might work together to get some rebar assemblies welded.

The following step-by-step instructions are provided for building the forms and the reinforcing rebar assemblies.

[[How to bend rebar]]

[[https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=14oCxZUjs09wGuvaL4QTAII6hRxQpy20TKv7skH3INRWAVlXqtgdrh0D2ggtl&hl=en Assembly sheet for column pad forms]]

[[https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=1_hf2n-l9rCiEss45ZC8ogtMpeQki9fCoYIFdkD5x3lCOwjGh7Gknr-POJrNB&hl=en Rebar plan for column footings]]

===Laying out the locations for the forms on top of the foundation stone===
Once the form and rebar assemblies are built and the foundation stone is in place, the string site plan lay-out must be set up for placing the forms properly over their (now invisible) foundations. If you set your hole locating strings far enough out that the excavation didn't disturb them, this will be simple. It will be even easier if you rolled up your strings before the hole excavation got done and saved them. (See comments below!)

''Collect equipment and supplies needed''
*Blueprint of site plan
*100' tape measure
*Pre-placed marking stakes around outside of foundation site.
*Rolled up pre-used string balls from foundation hole layout
''Steps for Laying out Column Pad Form locations.''
#Measure to check that all pre-placed marking stakes are properly positioned.
#If any are missing or misplaced, replace or reposition them as needed.
#Unroll and retie the strings to their corresponding stakes across the foundation site .

Here's what the layout over the stone should look like.
[[File:HabLab Column Pad Form Layout.png|thumb|600 px|center]]

-Note-
We had a great plan for this - we would set our stakes out first to mark the hole edges at 4'x4', save the strings and move the stakes in by 6" to 3'x3' for the setting the pad forms.

However, when we tried it in real life - Well...
*We lost a lot of our stakes during the excavation.
*We found the holes tended to come out bigger than we had intended them to be.
*And once the stone was laid over the site, we couldn't see where the foundation holes were located!
We wound up remeasuring and resetting most of the stakes for laying out the pad site grid.
*We dug stone out of two of corners to find the edges of the foundation holes.
*We remeasured and reset corner marking stakes inside those edges.
*We retriangulated with the diagonals to assure the foundation square.
*And we remeasured and reset stakes along all the edges.

So we've rewritten the foundation lay-out plans as they are currently posted. In the current version, we set the stakes at the 3'x3' points to start with so they don't need to be moved. We also emphasized setting them firmly - and safely outside the excavation area.

-Later Note-
More sad experience - gained while setting the floor and wall forms and found our firmly set concrete East column pads were sitting 3' further South than they should have been!

What happened -
*The outlining strings for the site were set properly and square - good.
*However, while doing all of the fixing above, we got tired and thought up a short cut. We were short on stakes and we needed to mark both the hablab and the workshop sites for form placement (our 40 forms would require us to locate and put in some 40 stakes) We could place our forms easily enough in line with the strings with only one corner marked couldn't we? (That would require placing half as many stakes!)
*We started at the NorthWest corner and measured 16' East along the North line and staked that for a line. Then another 16' East we set another stake.
*Then we went back and did the same from the NorthWest corner to the South. - and from the SouthWest corner to the East.
*Finally we went down to the lower level and marked the East line of the site ''starting at the South end of the line''. - And we ran our strings.
*Later, we were tired and losing daylight when we set the forms in place along the lines on the Hab Lab site.
I suppose this short cut could have worked if we had checked more carfully:
*Rechecking the placement measurements is an obvious one.
*Standing back and looking for parallel lines is another obvious one.
*Looking for a cause when it was difficult to align the squarely built pads with the crossed strings would have been another solution.

So this is the layout we are actually working with now!
[[File:Oops HabLab Column Pad Form Layout.png|thumb|600px|center]]

We decided that an emergency floor plan change we came up with should compensate for this without having to redo most of the column pads. As we run into more complications, we'll post on them!

===Setting the column pad forms===
''Collect equipment and supplies needed''
*Supplies
**16 Pre-built column pad forms
**80 form stakes (we used 2"x2"x18" wooden stakes)
*Equipment
**Heavy Hammer(s)
**4'spirit Level
**Water level
**tape measure
''Steps to place Column Pad forms''
#Use with the center pad site on the upper level as the reference pad.
#Set a pre-built column pad form in place under the string lines with the inside of the forms under the strings.
#Drive two form stakes next to the outside of one side and one on each of the other three sides. They will need to sit deep enough that the tops of the stakes will be level with (or lower than) the top of the form.
#Level the form.
##Screw one of the stakes (on the side with two) to the side of the form so that the form sits 1/2" above the gravel level. Be sure that the top of the stake is level with (or lower than) the top of the form.
##Use the spirit level to set this side of the form level and screw it in position.
##Use the spirit level to set the opposite side of the form at the same level.
##Check the level on the other two sides and screw them in place.
#Use the water level to set the first level on each of the other pads on the upper level.
#Repeat the remainder of the leveling steps for each form.
#Use the water level to set the level of the center form in the lower level at 24" lower than the upper level pads.
#Complete the leveling steps for this form.
#Use the center form on the lower level for a reference form to set and level the remaining lower level column pad forms.

[[File:Setting Column Pad Forms Diagram.png|thumb|600 px|center]]

===Preparing Column Pad Forms for Reinforced Concrete===
Collect equipment and supplies needed
*Supplies
**16 Pre-built column pad rebar assemblies
**64 rebar chairs
*Equipment
**Rake(s)
**shovel
**tape measure
#Use a rake and shovel to remove about 2" of stone from the inside of the form. (until is 6" deep)
#Pack removed stone around outside of forms to create a fully enclosed 6" deep form.
#Use one prebuilt column pad rebar assembly for each column pad site.
#Center the rebar assembly with 3” gap between assembly and form wall on every side.
#Set rebar chairs under corners of prebuilt column pad rebar assemblies.-Put a stone or some gravel under the chairs if needed to center the rebar so it will sit at about the middle of the finished slab (3" off the floor of the form).

[[File:Preparing Column Pad Sites for Concrete Pouring.png|thumb|600 px|center]]

==Concrete Work==
We are preparing to do the big concrete pour. Using the FreeMind mind map model, this is the node that outlines the dependencies so we can be ready for that. Following sections include instructions for accomplishing them.
[[File:Dependencies for Getting Floors Poured.png|thumb|800px|center]]
Here is the planning layout for the concrete - which we are planning to do in one great big pour. We'll let you know how it goes!
[[File:HabLab Concrete Forms Layout.png|800px|center]]

===Insulated Outside Wall Support Slabs===
We are planning to put reinforced concrete the full 3' width of the Column Support Pads all the way around the outside of the building. They will be 3-1/2" (2x4 lumber size) deep and will support the two CEB walls that enclose the hay bale insulation. Rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.

====Preparing the rebar reinforcement assemblies====
[[How to bend rebar]]

Rebar Assembly for 13’ Outside Wall pads (make 11 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’6” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 6’4” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 12’6” by 2’6” dimensions.
#Measure and cut (1) 20’ piece of #4 rebar to 12’7” in length.
#Center the 12’7” piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld it into place.
[[File:Rebar for outside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

Rebar Assembly for 9’6” Outside Wall pads (make 2 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 4’7” from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’6” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 4’7” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 9’ by 2’6” dimensions.
#Measure and cut (1) 20’ piece of #4 rebar to 9’1” in length.
#Center the 9’1” piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld it into place.
[[File:Rebar for 9.5' outside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

Rebar Assembly for 7' Outside Wall pads (make 2 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 3’4” from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’6” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 3’4” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 6’6” by 2’6” dimensions.
#Measure and cut (1) 20’ piece of #4 rebar to 6'7" in length.
#Center the 6'7" piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld it into place.
[[File:Rebar for 7' outside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

====Preparing the concrete forms====
Our pouring plan requires these forms relating to the outside wall construction. For those wall pads that are part of our interior pads, additional forms are in other sections. If you are not pouring large interior pads, you will need to adjust the number of interior forms.

Exterior Forms for 13' Wall slabs. (make 10 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(2) 2"x4"x7' pine studs
*(1) piece of scrap lumber,
*(4) 3" screws
*Driver
''Steps to do:''
#Start two screws into the flat side of each end of the piece of scrap lumber.
#Butt the two 7' boards end to end
#Lay the piece of scrap lumber over the seam butt joint.
#Be sure the narrow sides of the boards are lined up evenly with each other.
#Drive the screws in completely to hold the boards in line.

Interior Forms for 13' Wall slabs. (make 5 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(2) 2"x4"x7' pine studs
*Measuring tape
*Pencil
*Saw
*(4) 3" screws
*Driver
''Steps to do:''
#Measure, mark, and cut one board to be 6' long.
#Start two screws into the flat side of each end of the 1' piece of scrap lumber.
#Butt the 6' piece with the other 7' board end to end
#Lay the piece of scrap lumber over the seam butt joint.
#Be sure the narrow sides of the boards are lined up evenly with each other.
#Drive the screws in completely to hold the boards in line.

Forms for Wall slabs on split-level section

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(6) 2"x4"x7' pine studs
*(4) 2"x4"x10' pine studs
*Measuring tape
*Pencil
*Saw
''Steps to do:''
#Measure, mark, and cut (2) 7' boards to be 6' long.
#Measure, mark, and cut (2) 10' boards to be 9'6" long.
#You will use the other boards uncut.

[[File:Exterior Wall Form Boards.png|thumb|600px|center]]

====Setting the forms====

===Narrow Wall Support Slabs===
We will support and stabilize the interior CEB walls with a 12" wide x 3-1/2" deep concrete slab. Rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.

====Preparing Rebar reinforcement assemblies====
Rebar Assembly for all 12” interior wall slabs

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(10) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 3’4” from one end.
#Bend 180⁰ the rebar with a 3” radius.
#Measure and mark so another 180⁰ with a 3” radius will produce 6’6” long assemblies.
#Cut the extra rebar (about 7’) off, leaving enough to tack weld each assembly together.

#Measure and mark (4) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 4’4” from the end.
#Bend 180⁰ with a 3” radius.
#Measure and mark so another 180⁰ with a 3” radius will produce 8’6” long assemblies.
#Cut the extra rebar off, leaving enough to tack weld each assembly together.

#Measure and mark (4) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” from the end.
#Bend 180⁰ with a 3” radius.
#Measure and mark so another 180⁰ with a 3” radius will produce 12’6” long assemblies.
#Use scrap cuttings (about 7’ long) to bridge the gap for each of these assemblies.
[[File:Rebar for 1' inside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

====Preparing the Concrete Forms====
These 12" wide slabs will provide a firm foundation on which to build our interior CEB room-dividing walls. Mostly they use the same sizes of forms you used for the outside walls. If you are pouring in small stages, you won't have build more forms because you can reuse the ones from the outside wall slabs. If you are going to pour all the concrete at once, you will need 7 more of the 13' inside form assemblies, 4 more uncut 7' boards, 2 more 7' boards cut to 6' lengths, 6 more boards cut to 9'6", and two boards cut to 9' in length.
Instructions for preparing all of these boards are found above - in the [[#Insulated Outside Wall Support Slabs/Preparing the Concrete Forms|Outside Wall Slabs]] section.

====Setting the Forms====

===Kitchen and Bath Areas===
The Kitchen and Bath Floor Areas both have a potential for receiving noticeable amounts of water. We consider it advisable to pave them both with concrete and include a central drain. Rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.
====Preparing the Rebar Assemblies====
Rebar Assembly for 16’x13’ slabs (make 2 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (4) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” from the end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Cut the long ends to 7’10” long.
#Overlap the short ends of two L-shaped pieces and measure to make a U shaped assembly with 12’6” between the legs.
#Make two of these assemblies.
#Overlap the legs of the U-shaped assemblies to make a rectangle measuring 15’6” x 12’6”
#Measure and cut (5) pieces of #4 rebar to 15’7” long.
#Measure and cut (7) pieces of #4 rebar to 12’7” long.
#Space and position the cut pieces into a 24” grid across the rectangle.
[[File:Rebar for between big slabs.png|thumb|600px|center]]

#Weld them into place.
[[File:Rebar for 16x13 slab.png|thumb|600px|center]]

There is one more assembly to go into this section between the two big ones. It is a modification of the exterior wall slab reinforcements.

Rebar Assembly for Interior 13’x3’ section of big Slab

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(2) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” #from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’ between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 6’4” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 12’6” by 2’ dimensions.

====Preparing the Concrete forms====
Because we are pouring this all at once, we decided to eliminate some complicated form work by including the equipment area and one room in this slab. This will be a big pour of concrete. It requires about 5 cubic yards of concrete. If you have plenty of time and are working in small batches, you can save over a yard of concrete by building the interior wall forms and pouring only wall-support pads - as shown on the layout.

The large slabs are laid between column pads, using 13' interior form assemblies. If you are pouring all at once, you will need two more of these assemblies, one more board cut to 9'6", and a piece of scrap about 3' long to complete the form work for this area. This, of course, assumes that you already have the exterior forms for the exterior wall slabs prepared. Instructions for preparing all of these are above in the [[#Insulated Outside Wall Support Slabs/Preparing the Concrete Forms|Outside Wall Slabs]]
section.
====Setting the Forms====

===Retaining Wall for Lower Level===
Ideas for this wall have been through several iterations. At present (Oct. 10th), we are planning to lay a 6" footer, 18" wide and 62' long. On top of that, we plan to put a 12" thick wall of bitumen-protected CEB. For the concrete footer, rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.
====Preparing the Rebar Assembly====
Rebar Assembly for Retaining wall footer

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(9) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Scrap #4 rebar to make (1) 6’ pieces and (1) 1’1” piece
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 8’ from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 12” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut (1) 6’ and (1) 1’1” piece of #4 rebar.
#Overlap and weld (1) 20’ length of rebar to each leg.
#Measure and weld the two longer legs together so the resulting assembly is 61’6” long.
#Weld the 6’ piece of rebar between the ends of the two shorter legs so that side is 61’6” long, too.
#Weld (3) 20’ pieces of #4 rebar into an approximately 60’ length of rebar.
#Center the 60’ piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld one end at the center of one end of the rectangle.
#Position the 1’1” piece of rebar across the rectangle to support the free end of the 60’ assembly.
#Weld the short piece to the three long ones.
[[File:Rebar Assembly for Retaining wall.png|thumb|600px|center]]
====Preparing the Concrete Form====
This is a really long form - 62 feet. You don't want to put it together ahead of time and try to carry it anywhere! What you ''do'' want to do is make sure you have all the pieces you will need cut and reserved against the time you will be setting the forms up.

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(8) 2"x6"x16' boards
*(6) Pieces of 2x4 or 2x6 scrap for splicing.
*Measuring tape
*Pencil
*Saw
''Steps to do''
#Measure and mark 18" from the end of (2) 2x6x16' boards
#Cut the two 18" pieces and mark them "form ends".
#Set aside the 6 16' boards, the 14'6" boards, the form ends, and all the scrap pieces in a reserve pile.

====Setting the Concrete Form====

==CEB Columns==

[[http://ww2.unhabitat.org/programmes/housingpolicy/Images/PDF.gif|UN CEB PDF]]

==CEB Arches==

[[http://ww2.unhabitat.org/programmes/housingpolicy/documents/Vault.pdf|UN Vaults PDF]]

[[http://www.amazon.com/Concrete-Hardness-Hammer-HT-225A-Portable/dp/B0049DDJCK/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1317915942&sr=8-6|Hardness Test Hammer]] for quality assurance

==CEB Floors==

[[http://www.velacreations.com/cebfloors.html|CEB Floor Instructions]]

==Insulated Roof==

# 16 11-member 2x6x16' frames
# a layer of tyvek
# a layer of lathe, mounted diagonally about 18" apart
# a layer of hay bales surrounded and around 2x12 spacers
# 16 11-member 2x4x16' frames
# agricultural roof panel on top and sides

Frames are built with one 16' beam on each end of 9 other 16' beams laid on 24" centers. These roof frames can be built quite quickly at any time labor is available, preferably ahead of time so that they can be installed as soon as the columns are ready to be covered.

==Super Insulated Walls==

2.5 foot thick wall.

4x6x12 bricks laid on the 12x4" side in standard wall layup, two walls outside surfaces 2.5' apart.

With air space left on either side, bales are stacked in the center of the wall, creating super insulation between the interior and exterior.

==Heating the HabLab==

I propose a [[http://www.heatkit.com Heatkit]] masonry furnace kit, surrounded by CEB

File:Column Pads Completed.png

2011-10-17T23:14:39Z

Margaret Ida: uploaded a new version of "File:Column Pads Completed.png": Reverted to version as of 23:11, 17 October 2011

File:Column Pads Completed.png

2011-10-17T23:13:56Z

Margaret Ida: uploaded a new version of "File:Column Pads Completed.png"

File:Column Pads Completed.png

2011-10-17T23:11:16Z

Margaret Ida: uploaded a new version of "File:Column Pads Completed.png"

Hab Lab

2011-10-17T23:10:39Z

Margaret Ida: /* Foundations & Column Slabs */

The need for all-weather housing to shelter year-round members of the community, located where summers can be unpleasantly hot and winters unpleasantly cold, can be met with superinsulated designs. Here we will examine some possible options and our progress in bring them into existence. Planning tools, instructions, modifications, etc. will be included.

The [[Hab Lab Design Gallery|Design Page]] is a good place to see what has been offered and to post any of your own great ideas. More ideas are great for everybody!

==Survey & Design==
The area on the property for the first group habitation was on a noticeable slope. OSE staff members worked with a home-made water level to take measurements over a 100' square area.

How to make a water level: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nAcT_1T25LM

Ideas submitted for this project are located on the [[Hab Lab Design Gallery]] page.

===Building Orientation===
Oops!
Some of our pads got set 3' South of their intended site. Here is an emergency redesign idea.
[[File:Emergency Remodel HabLab.png|thumb|800px|center]]

==Planning==
There is a lot of planning that goes into building something like this. Here is a FreeMind mind map on that. It will be updated as we do more of it. The green nodes designate things we have completed - and therefore can 'go' forward with.
[[File:HabLab Planning.png|thumb|800px|center]]
The nodes with arrows indicate those that have been created as separate mind maps. Their details will be found in the subsection to which they pertain.

===Kitchen/Bath Water===

===Utility/Storage Area===

===Heating===
[[Space_Heating]]
====Source Material====
http://dnr.mo.gov/pubs/pub781.pdf

==Site Preparation==

The Hab Lab is designed to be supported by columns built of CEB (Compressed Earth Block)which are constructed on a reinforced concrete pad. Due to the slope of our site, we designed a lowered section which requires a low retaining wall. Included here are instructions for preparing the site with adequate footings.

Here is a picture with a preliminary excavation layout for the column pad sites and the retaining wall in the Hab Lab.
*When you are laying out the excavation site, be sure to add 5' in each direction for the excavator to work to.

[[File:HabLab Excavation Layout.png|thumb|800 px|center]]
This levels diagram is from our theoretical measurements - we actually wound up with a 2' drop, not a 2'8" drop. That will make only a minor difference in raising the building - changing the size of the retaining wall and removing one or two CEB's at the top of the lower columns to maintain the planned roof pitch.
[[File:Levels Diagram for Hab Lab Site.png|thumb|800 px|center]]

==Foundations & Column Slabs==
[[File:Column Pad Form Prep.png|thumb|800px|center]]

===Laying out the Hab Lab excavation site to be square===
''Collect equipment and supplies needed''
*Blueprint of site plan
*(2) 100’ Measuring tapes
*4 3-4’ stakes
*Hammer
*Bright spray paint
''Steps for Staking out the excavation site.''
#Choose a spot approximately 5 feet to the North and 5 feet to the West of the area to be excavated.
#Pound in a stake and spray paint the top foot or two of it.
#Measure due East a distance 10’ longer than the foundation width (total 67’).
#Place and paint another stake.
#Calculate a distance 10’ longer than the foundation length (total 62’).
#Calculate the diagonal measurement of the excavation site [Length(squared) x Width(squared) = Diagonal(squared)] (91'4").
#Measure due South from the Northwest stake the distance calculated in step 6.
#Set the second tape measure on the Northeast stake and measure the diagonal calculated in step 7 going Southwest.
#Set your third stake where the two measured lengths meet each other.
#Paint the stake.
#Measure due South from the Northeast stake the distance calculated in step 6.
#Set the second tape measure on the Northwest stake and measure the diagonal calculated in step 7 going Southeast.
#Set your fouth stake where the two measured lengths meet each other.
#Paint the stake.

*With the site leveled, the foundation holes for the column slabs must be laid out.
*After excavation, the stone fill for the foundation goes into the holes.
*At the same time, the 6" stone floor foundation is spread.

===Concrete forms and rebar reinforcing assemblies===
These can be built well ahead of need whenever volunteers are available.
*You could set up an assembly line effect to do them all at once with several people working together.
*An individual might do one unit at a time.
*An individual might do all the wood cutting at one time, another do all the rebar cutting at another time, another do all the rebar bending at another time.
*A couple of people might work together to get some wooden forms assembled once the pieces are cut, another time, a couple of people might work together to get some rebar assemblies welded.

The following step-by-step instructions are provided for building the forms and the reinforcing rebar assemblies.

[[How to bend rebar]]

[[https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=14oCxZUjs09wGuvaL4QTAII6hRxQpy20TKv7skH3INRWAVlXqtgdrh0D2ggtl&hl=en Assembly sheet for column pad forms]]

[[https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=1_hf2n-l9rCiEss45ZC8ogtMpeQki9fCoYIFdkD5x3lCOwjGh7Gknr-POJrNB&hl=en Rebar plan for column footings]]

===Laying out the locations for the forms on top of the foundation stone===
Once the form and rebar assemblies are built and the foundation stone is in place, the string site plan lay-out must be set up for placing the forms properly over their (now invisible) foundations. If you set your hole locating strings far enough out that the excavation didn't disturb them, this will be simple. It will be even easier if you rolled up your strings before the hole excavation got done and saved them. (See comments below!)

''Collect equipment and supplies needed''
*Blueprint of site plan
*100' tape measure
*Pre-placed marking stakes around outside of foundation site.
*Rolled up pre-used string balls from foundation hole layout
''Steps for Laying out Column Pad Form locations.''
#Measure to check that all pre-placed marking stakes are properly positioned.
#If any are missing or misplaced, replace or reposition them as needed.
#Unroll and retie the strings to their corresponding stakes across the foundation site .

Here's what the layout over the stone should look like.
[[File:HabLab Column Pad Form Layout.png|thumb|600 px|center]]

-Note-
We had a great plan for this - we would set our stakes out first to mark the hole edges at 4'x4', save the strings and move the stakes in by 6" to 3'x3' for the setting the pad forms.

However, when we tried it in real life - Well...
*We lost a lot of our stakes during the excavation.
*We found the holes tended to come out bigger than we had intended them to be.
*And once the stone was laid over the site, we couldn't see where the foundation holes were located!
We wound up remeasuring and resetting most of the stakes for laying out the pad site grid.
*We dug stone out of two of corners to find the edges of the foundation holes.
*We remeasured and reset corner marking stakes inside those edges.
*We retriangulated with the diagonals to assure the foundation square.
*And we remeasured and reset stakes along all the edges.

So we've rewritten the foundation lay-out plans as they are currently posted. In the current version, we set the stakes at the 3'x3' points to start with so they don't need to be moved. We also emphasized setting them firmly - and safely outside the excavation area.

-Later Note-
More sad experience - gained while setting the floor and wall forms and found our firmly set concrete East column pads were sitting 3' further South than they should have been!

What happened -
*The outlining strings for the site were set properly and square - good.
*However, while doing all of the fixing above, we got tired and thought up a short cut. We were short on stakes and we needed to mark both the hablab and the workshop sites for form placement (our 40 forms would require us to locate and put in some 40 stakes) We could place our forms easily enough in line with the strings with only one corner marked couldn't we? (That would require placing half as many stakes!)
*We started at the NorthWest corner and measured 16' East along the North line and staked that for a line. Then another 16' East we set another stake.
*Then we went back and did the same from the NorthWest corner to the South. - and from the SouthWest corner to the East.
*Finally we went down to the lower level and marked the East line of the site ''starting at the South end of the line''. - And we ran our strings.
*Later, we were tired and losing daylight when we set the forms in place along the lines on the Hab Lab site.
I suppose this short cut could have worked if we had checked more carfully:
*Rechecking the placement measurements is an obvious one.
*Standing back and looking for parallel lines is another obvious one.
*Looking for a cause when it was difficult to align the squarely built pads with the crossed strings would have been another solution.

So this is the layout we are actually working with now!
[[File:Oops HabLab Column Pad Form Layout.png|thumb|600px|center]]

We decided that an emergency floor plan change we came up with should compensate for this without having to redo most of the column pads. As we run into more complications, we'll post on them!

===Setting the column pad forms===
''Collect equipment and supplies needed''
*Supplies
**16 Pre-built column pad forms
**80 form stakes (we used 2"x2"x18" wooden stakes)
*Equipment
**Heavy Hammer(s)
**4'spirit Level
**Water level
**tape measure
''Steps to place Column Pad forms''
#Use with the center pad site on the upper level as the reference pad.
#Set a pre-built column pad form in place under the string lines with the inside of the forms under the strings.
#Drive two form stakes next to the outside of one side and one on each of the other three sides. They will need to sit deep enough that the tops of the stakes will be level with (or lower than) the top of the form.
#Level the form.
##Screw one of the stakes (on the side with two) to the side of the form so that the form sits 1/2" above the gravel level. Be sure that the top of the stake is level with (or lower than) the top of the form.
##Use the spirit level to set this side of the form level and screw it in position.
##Use the spirit level to set the opposite side of the form at the same level.
##Check the level on the other two sides and screw them in place.
#Use the water level to set the first level on each of the other pads on the upper level.
#Repeat the remainder of the leveling steps for each form.
#Use the water level to set the level of the center form in the lower level at 24" lower than the upper level pads.
#Complete the leveling steps for this form.
#Use the center form on the lower level for a reference form to set and level the remaining lower level column pad forms.

[[File:Setting Column Pad Forms Diagram.png|thumb|600 px|center]]

===Preparing Column Pad Forms for Reinforced Concrete===
Collect equipment and supplies needed
*Supplies
**16 Pre-built column pad rebar assemblies
**64 rebar chairs
*Equipment
**Rake(s)
**shovel
**tape measure
#Use a rake and shovel to remove about 2" of stone from the inside of the form. (until is 6" deep)
#Pack removed stone around outside of forms to create a fully enclosed 6" deep form.
#Use one prebuilt column pad rebar assembly for each column pad site.
#Center the rebar assembly with 3” gap between assembly and form wall on every side.
#Set rebar chairs under corners of prebuilt column pad rebar assemblies.-Put a stone or some gravel under the chairs if needed to center the rebar so it will sit at about the middle of the finished slab (3" off the floor of the form).

[[File:Preparing Column Pad Sites for Concrete Pouring.png|thumb|600 px|center]]

==Concrete Work==
We are preparing to do the big concrete pour. Using the FreeMind mind map model, this is the node that outlines the dependencies so we can be ready for that. Following sections include instructions for accomplishing them.
[[File:Dependencies for Getting Floors Poured.png|thumb|800px|center]]
Here is the planning layout for the concrete - which we are planning to do in one great big pour. We'll let you know how it goes!
[[File:HabLab Concrete Forms Layout.png|800px|center]]

===Insulated Outside Wall Support Slabs===
We are planning to put reinforced concrete the full 3' width of the Column Support Pads all the way around the outside of the building. They will be 3-1/2" (2x4 lumber size) deep and will support the two CEB walls that enclose the hay bale insulation. Rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.

====Preparing the rebar reinforcement assemblies====
[[How to bend rebar]]

Rebar Assembly for 13’ Outside Wall pads (make 11 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’6” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 6’4” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 12’6” by 2’6” dimensions.
#Measure and cut (1) 20’ piece of #4 rebar to 12’7” in length.
#Center the 12’7” piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld it into place.
[[File:Rebar for outside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

Rebar Assembly for 9’6” Outside Wall pads (make 2 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 4’7” from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’6” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 4’7” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 9’ by 2’6” dimensions.
#Measure and cut (1) 20’ piece of #4 rebar to 9’1” in length.
#Center the 9’1” piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld it into place.
[[File:Rebar for 9.5' outside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

Rebar Assembly for 7' Outside Wall pads (make 2 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 3’4” from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’6” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 3’4” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 6’6” by 2’6” dimensions.
#Measure and cut (1) 20’ piece of #4 rebar to 6'7" in length.
#Center the 6'7" piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld it into place.
[[File:Rebar for 7' outside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

====Preparing the concrete forms====
Our pouring plan requires these forms relating to the outside wall construction. For those wall pads that are part of our interior pads, additional forms are in other sections. If you are not pouring large interior pads, you will need to adjust the number of interior forms.

Exterior Forms for 13' Wall slabs. (make 10 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(2) 2"x4"x7' pine studs
*(1) piece of scrap lumber,
*(4) 3" screws
*Driver
''Steps to do:''
#Start two screws into the flat side of each end of the piece of scrap lumber.
#Butt the two 7' boards end to end
#Lay the piece of scrap lumber over the seam butt joint.
#Be sure the narrow sides of the boards are lined up evenly with each other.
#Drive the screws in completely to hold the boards in line.

Interior Forms for 13' Wall slabs. (make 5 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(2) 2"x4"x7' pine studs
*Measuring tape
*Pencil
*Saw
*(4) 3" screws
*Driver
''Steps to do:''
#Measure, mark, and cut one board to be 6' long.
#Start two screws into the flat side of each end of the 1' piece of scrap lumber.
#Butt the 6' piece with the other 7' board end to end
#Lay the piece of scrap lumber over the seam butt joint.
#Be sure the narrow sides of the boards are lined up evenly with each other.
#Drive the screws in completely to hold the boards in line.

Forms for Wall slabs on split-level section

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(6) 2"x4"x7' pine studs
*(4) 2"x4"x10' pine studs
*Measuring tape
*Pencil
*Saw
''Steps to do:''
#Measure, mark, and cut (2) 7' boards to be 6' long.
#Measure, mark, and cut (2) 10' boards to be 9'6" long.
#You will use the other boards uncut.

[[File:Exterior Wall Form Boards.png|thumb|600px|center]]

====Setting the forms====

===Narrow Wall Support Slabs===
We will support and stabilize the interior CEB walls with a 12" wide x 3-1/2" deep concrete slab. Rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.

====Preparing Rebar reinforcement assemblies====
Rebar Assembly for all 12” interior wall slabs

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(10) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 3’4” from one end.
#Bend 180⁰ the rebar with a 3” radius.
#Measure and mark so another 180⁰ with a 3” radius will produce 6’6” long assemblies.
#Cut the extra rebar (about 7’) off, leaving enough to tack weld each assembly together.

#Measure and mark (4) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 4’4” from the end.
#Bend 180⁰ with a 3” radius.
#Measure and mark so another 180⁰ with a 3” radius will produce 8’6” long assemblies.
#Cut the extra rebar off, leaving enough to tack weld each assembly together.

#Measure and mark (4) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” from the end.
#Bend 180⁰ with a 3” radius.
#Measure and mark so another 180⁰ with a 3” radius will produce 12’6” long assemblies.
#Use scrap cuttings (about 7’ long) to bridge the gap for each of these assemblies.
[[File:Rebar for 1' inside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

====Preparing the Concrete Forms====
These 12" wide slabs will provide a firm foundation on which to build our interior CEB room-dividing walls. Mostly they use the same sizes of forms you used for the outside walls. If you are pouring in small stages, you won't have build more forms because you can reuse the ones from the outside wall slabs. If you are going to pour all the concrete at once, you will need 7 more of the 13' inside form assemblies, 4 more uncut 7' boards, 2 more 7' boards cut to 6' lengths, 6 more boards cut to 9'6", and two boards cut to 9' in length.
Instructions for preparing all of these boards are found above - in the [[#Insulated Outside Wall Support Slabs/Preparing the Concrete Forms|Outside Wall Slabs]] section.

====Setting the Forms====

===Kitchen and Bath Areas===
The Kitchen and Bath Floor Areas both have a potential for receiving noticeable amounts of water. We consider it advisable to pave them both with concrete and include a central drain. Rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.
====Preparing the Rebar Assemblies====
Rebar Assembly for 16’x13’ slabs (make 2 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (4) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” from the end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Cut the long ends to 7’10” long.
#Overlap the short ends of two L-shaped pieces and measure to make a U shaped assembly with 12’6” between the legs.
#Make two of these assemblies.
#Overlap the legs of the U-shaped assemblies to make a rectangle measuring 15’6” x 12’6”
#Measure and cut (5) pieces of #4 rebar to 15’7” long.
#Measure and cut (7) pieces of #4 rebar to 12’7” long.
#Space and position the cut pieces into a 24” grid across the rectangle.
[[File:Rebar for between big slabs.png|thumb|600px|center]]

#Weld them into place.
[[File:Rebar for 16x13 slab.png|thumb|600px|center]]

There is one more assembly to go into this section between the two big ones. It is a modification of the exterior wall slab reinforcements.

Rebar Assembly for Interior 13’x3’ section of big Slab

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(2) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” #from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’ between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 6’4” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 12’6” by 2’ dimensions.

====Preparing the Concrete forms====
Because we are pouring this all at once, we decided to eliminate some complicated form work by including the equipment area and one room in this slab. This will be a big pour of concrete. It requires about 5 cubic yards of concrete. If you have plenty of time and are working in small batches, you can save over a yard of concrete by building the interior wall forms and pouring only wall-support pads - as shown on the layout.

The large slabs are laid between column pads, using 13' interior form assemblies. If you are pouring all at once, you will need two more of these assemblies, one more board cut to 9'6", and a piece of scrap about 3' long to complete the form work for this area. This, of course, assumes that you already have the exterior forms for the exterior wall slabs prepared. Instructions for preparing all of these are above in the [[#Insulated Outside Wall Support Slabs/Preparing the Concrete Forms|Outside Wall Slabs]]
section.
====Setting the Forms====

===Retaining Wall for Lower Level===
Ideas for this wall have been through several iterations. At present (Oct. 10th), we are planning to lay a 6" footer, 18" wide and 62' long. On top of that, we plan to put a 12" thick wall of bitumen-protected CEB. For the concrete footer, rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.
====Preparing the Rebar Assembly====
Rebar Assembly for Retaining wall footer

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(9) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Scrap #4 rebar to make (1) 6’ pieces and (1) 1’1” piece
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 8’ from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 12” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut (1) 6’ and (1) 1’1” piece of #4 rebar.
#Overlap and weld (1) 20’ length of rebar to each leg.
#Measure and weld the two longer legs together so the resulting assembly is 61’6” long.
#Weld the 6’ piece of rebar between the ends of the two shorter legs so that side is 61’6” long, too.
#Weld (3) 20’ pieces of #4 rebar into an approximately 60’ length of rebar.
#Center the 60’ piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld one end at the center of one end of the rectangle.
#Position the 1’1” piece of rebar across the rectangle to support the free end of the 60’ assembly.
#Weld the short piece to the three long ones.
[[File:Rebar Assembly for Retaining wall.png|thumb|600px|center]]
====Preparing the Concrete Form====
This is a really long form - 62 feet. You don't want to put it together ahead of time and try to carry it anywhere! What you ''do'' want to do is make sure you have all the pieces you will need cut and reserved against the time you will be setting the forms up.

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(8) 2"x6"x16' boards
*(6) Pieces of 2x4 or 2x6 scrap for splicing.
*Measuring tape
*Pencil
*Saw
''Steps to do''
#Measure and mark 18" from the end of (2) 2x6x16' boards
#Cut the two 18" pieces and mark them "form ends".
#Set aside the 6 16' boards, the 14'6" boards, the form ends, and all the scrap pieces in a reserve pile.

====Setting the Concrete Form====

==CEB Columns==

[[http://ww2.unhabitat.org/programmes/housingpolicy/Images/PDF.gif|UN CEB PDF]]

==CEB Arches==

[[http://ww2.unhabitat.org/programmes/housingpolicy/documents/Vault.pdf|UN Vaults PDF]]

[[http://www.amazon.com/Concrete-Hardness-Hammer-HT-225A-Portable/dp/B0049DDJCK/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1317915942&sr=8-6|Hardness Test Hammer]] for quality assurance

==CEB Floors==

[[http://www.velacreations.com/cebfloors.html|CEB Floor Instructions]]

==Insulated Roof==

# 16 11-member 2x6x16' frames
# a layer of tyvek
# a layer of lathe, mounted diagonally about 18" apart
# a layer of hay bales surrounded and around 2x12 spacers
# 16 11-member 2x4x16' frames
# agricultural roof panel on top and sides

Frames are built with one 16' beam on each end of 9 other 16' beams laid on 24" centers. These roof frames can be built quite quickly at any time labor is available, preferably ahead of time so that they can be installed as soon as the columns are ready to be covered.

==Super Insulated Walls==

2.5 foot thick wall.

4x6x12 bricks laid on the 12x4" side in standard wall layup, two walls outside surfaces 2.5' apart.

With air space left on either side, bales are stacked in the center of the wall, creating super insulation between the interior and exterior.

==Heating the HabLab==

I propose a [[http://www.heatkit.com Heatkit]] masonry furnace kit, surrounded by CEB

File:Column Pad Form Prep.png

2011-10-17T23:08:42Z

Margaret Ida:

File:Column Pads Completed.png

2011-10-17T22:56:56Z

Margaret Ida: uploaded a new version of "File:Column Pads Completed.png"

File:Column Pads Completed.png

2011-10-17T13:53:56Z

Margaret Ida:

Hab Lab

2011-10-17T13:52:09Z

Margaret Ida: /* Planning */

The need for all-weather housing to shelter year-round members of the community, located where summers can be unpleasantly hot and winters unpleasantly cold, can be met with superinsulated designs. Here we will examine some possible options and our progress in bring them into existence. Planning tools, instructions, modifications, etc. will be included.

The [[Hab Lab Design Gallery|Design Page]] is a good place to see what has been offered and to post any of your own great ideas. More ideas are great for everybody!

==Survey & Design==
The area on the property for the first group habitation was on a noticeable slope. OSE staff members worked with a home-made water level to take measurements over a 100' square area.

How to make a water level: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nAcT_1T25LM

Ideas submitted for this project are located on the [[Hab Lab Design Gallery]] page.

===Building Orientation===
Oops!
Some of our pads got set 3' South of their intended site. Here is an emergency redesign idea.
[[File:Emergency Remodel HabLab.png|thumb|800px|center]]

==Planning==
There is a lot of planning that goes into building something like this. Here is a FreeMind mind map on that. It will be updated as we do more of it. The green nodes designate things we have completed - and therefore can 'go' forward with.
[[File:HabLab Planning.png|thumb|800px|center]]
The nodes with arrows indicate those that have been created as separate mind maps. Their details will be found in the subsection to which they pertain.

===Kitchen/Bath Water===

===Utility/Storage Area===

===Heating===
[[Space_Heating]]
====Source Material====
http://dnr.mo.gov/pubs/pub781.pdf

==Site Preparation==

The Hab Lab is designed to be supported by columns built of CEB (Compressed Earth Block)which are constructed on a reinforced concrete pad. Due to the slope of our site, we designed a lowered section which requires a low retaining wall. Included here are instructions for preparing the site with adequate footings.

Here is a picture with a preliminary excavation layout for the column pad sites and the retaining wall in the Hab Lab.
*When you are laying out the excavation site, be sure to add 5' in each direction for the excavator to work to.

[[File:HabLab Excavation Layout.png|thumb|800 px|center]]
This levels diagram is from our theoretical measurements - we actually wound up with a 2' drop, not a 2'8" drop. That will make only a minor difference in raising the building - changing the size of the retaining wall and removing one or two CEB's at the top of the lower columns to maintain the planned roof pitch.
[[File:Levels Diagram for Hab Lab Site.png|thumb|800 px|center]]

==Foundations & Column Slabs==

===Laying out the Hab Lab excavation site to be square===
''Collect equipment and supplies needed''
*Blueprint of site plan
*(2) 100’ Measuring tapes
*4 3-4’ stakes
*Hammer
*Bright spray paint
''Steps for Staking out the excavation site.''
#Choose a spot approximately 5 feet to the North and 5 feet to the West of the area to be excavated.
#Pound in a stake and spray paint the top foot or two of it.
#Measure due East a distance 10’ longer than the foundation width (total 67’).
#Place and paint another stake.
#Calculate a distance 10’ longer than the foundation length (total 62’).
#Calculate the diagonal measurement of the excavation site [Length(squared) x Width(squared) = Diagonal(squared)] (91'4").
#Measure due South from the Northwest stake the distance calculated in step 6.
#Set the second tape measure on the Northeast stake and measure the diagonal calculated in step 7 going Southwest.
#Set your third stake where the two measured lengths meet each other.
#Paint the stake.
#Measure due South from the Northeast stake the distance calculated in step 6.
#Set the second tape measure on the Northwest stake and measure the diagonal calculated in step 7 going Southeast.
#Set your fouth stake where the two measured lengths meet each other.
#Paint the stake.

*With the site leveled, the foundation holes for the column slabs must be laid out.
*After excavation, the stone fill for the foundation goes into the holes.
*At the same time, the 6" stone floor foundation is spread.

===Concrete forms and rebar reinforcing assemblies===
These can be built well ahead of need whenever volunteers are available.
*You could set up an assembly line effect to do them all at once with several people working together.
*An individual might do one unit at a time.
*An individual might do all the wood cutting at one time, another do all the rebar cutting at another time, another do all the rebar bending at another time.
*A couple of people might work together to get some wooden forms assembled once the pieces are cut, another time, a couple of people might work together to get some rebar assemblies welded.

The following step-by-step instructions are provided for building the forms and the reinforcing rebar assemblies.

[[How to bend rebar]]

[[https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=14oCxZUjs09wGuvaL4QTAII6hRxQpy20TKv7skH3INRWAVlXqtgdrh0D2ggtl&hl=en Assembly sheet for column pad forms]]

[[https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=1_hf2n-l9rCiEss45ZC8ogtMpeQki9fCoYIFdkD5x3lCOwjGh7Gknr-POJrNB&hl=en Rebar plan for column footings]]

===Laying out the locations for the forms on top of the foundation stone===
Once the form and rebar assemblies are built and the foundation stone is in place, the string site plan lay-out must be set up for placing the forms properly over their (now invisible) foundations. If you set your hole locating strings far enough out that the excavation didn't disturb them, this will be simple. It will be even easier if you rolled up your strings before the hole excavation got done and saved them. (See comments below!)

''Collect equipment and supplies needed''
*Blueprint of site plan
*100' tape measure
*Pre-placed marking stakes around outside of foundation site.
*Rolled up pre-used string balls from foundation hole layout
''Steps for Laying out Column Pad Form locations.''
#Measure to check that all pre-placed marking stakes are properly positioned.
#If any are missing or misplaced, replace or reposition them as needed.
#Unroll and retie the strings to their corresponding stakes across the foundation site .

Here's what the layout over the stone should look like.
[[File:HabLab Column Pad Form Layout.png|thumb|600 px|center]]

-Note-
We had a great plan for this - we would set our stakes out first to mark the hole edges at 4'x4', save the strings and move the stakes in by 6" to 3'x3' for the setting the pad forms.

However, when we tried it in real life - Well...
*We lost a lot of our stakes during the excavation.
*We found the holes tended to come out bigger than we had intended them to be.
*And once the stone was laid over the site, we couldn't see where the foundation holes were located!
We wound up remeasuring and resetting most of the stakes for laying out the pad site grid.
*We dug stone out of two of corners to find the edges of the foundation holes.
*We remeasured and reset corner marking stakes inside those edges.
*We retriangulated with the diagonals to assure the foundation square.
*And we remeasured and reset stakes along all the edges.

So we've rewritten the foundation lay-out plans as they are currently posted. In the current version, we set the stakes at the 3'x3' points to start with so they don't need to be moved. We also emphasized setting them firmly - and safely outside the excavation area.

-Later Note-
More sad experience - gained while setting the floor and wall forms and found our firmly set concrete East column pads were sitting 3' further South than they should have been!

What happened -
*The outlining strings for the site were set properly and square - good.
*However, while doing all of the fixing above, we got tired and thought up a short cut. We were short on stakes and we needed to mark both the hablab and the workshop sites for form placement (our 40 forms would require us to locate and put in some 40 stakes) We could place our forms easily enough in line with the strings with only one corner marked couldn't we? (That would require placing half as many stakes!)
*We started at the NorthWest corner and measured 16' East along the North line and staked that for a line. Then another 16' East we set another stake.
*Then we went back and did the same from the NorthWest corner to the South. - and from the SouthWest corner to the East.
*Finally we went down to the lower level and marked the East line of the site ''starting at the South end of the line''. - And we ran our strings.
*Later, we were tired and losing daylight when we set the forms in place along the lines on the Hab Lab site.
I suppose this short cut could have worked if we had checked more carfully:
*Rechecking the placement measurements is an obvious one.
*Standing back and looking for parallel lines is another obvious one.
*Looking for a cause when it was difficult to align the squarely built pads with the crossed strings would have been another solution.

So this is the layout we are actually working with now!
[[File:Oops HabLab Column Pad Form Layout.png|thumb|600px|center]]

We decided that an emergency floor plan change we came up with should compensate for this without having to redo most of the column pads. As we run into more complications, we'll post on them!

===Setting the column pad forms===
''Collect equipment and supplies needed''
*Supplies
**16 Pre-built column pad forms
**80 form stakes (we used 2"x2"x18" wooden stakes)
*Equipment
**Heavy Hammer(s)
**4'spirit Level
**Water level
**tape measure
''Steps to place Column Pad forms''
#Use with the center pad site on the upper level as the reference pad.
#Set a pre-built column pad form in place under the string lines with the inside of the forms under the strings.
#Drive two form stakes next to the outside of one side and one on each of the other three sides. They will need to sit deep enough that the tops of the stakes will be level with (or lower than) the top of the form.
#Level the form.
##Screw one of the stakes (on the side with two) to the side of the form so that the form sits 1/2" above the gravel level. Be sure that the top of the stake is level with (or lower than) the top of the form.
##Use the spirit level to set this side of the form level and screw it in position.
##Use the spirit level to set the opposite side of the form at the same level.
##Check the level on the other two sides and screw them in place.
#Use the water level to set the first level on each of the other pads on the upper level.
#Repeat the remainder of the leveling steps for each form.
#Use the water level to set the level of the center form in the lower level at 24" lower than the upper level pads.
#Complete the leveling steps for this form.
#Use the center form on the lower level for a reference form to set and level the remaining lower level column pad forms.

[[File:Setting Column Pad Forms Diagram.png|thumb|600 px|center]]

===Preparing Column Pad Forms for Reinforced Concrete===
Collect equipment and supplies needed
*Supplies
**16 Pre-built column pad rebar assemblies
**64 rebar chairs
*Equipment
**Rake(s)
**shovel
**tape measure
#Use a rake and shovel to remove about 2" of stone from the inside of the form. (until is 6" deep)
#Pack removed stone around outside of forms to create a fully enclosed 6" deep form.
#Use one prebuilt column pad rebar assembly for each column pad site.
#Center the rebar assembly with 3” gap between assembly and form wall on every side.
#Set rebar chairs under corners of prebuilt column pad rebar assemblies.-Put a stone or some gravel under the chairs if needed to center the rebar so it will sit at about the middle of the finished slab (3" off the floor of the form).

[[File:Preparing Column Pad Sites for Concrete Pouring.png|thumb|600 px|center]]

==Concrete Work==
We are preparing to do the big concrete pour. Using the FreeMind mind map model, this is the node that outlines the dependencies so we can be ready for that. Following sections include instructions for accomplishing them.
[[File:Dependencies for Getting Floors Poured.png|thumb|800px|center]]
Here is the planning layout for the concrete - which we are planning to do in one great big pour. We'll let you know how it goes!
[[File:HabLab Concrete Forms Layout.png|800px|center]]

===Insulated Outside Wall Support Slabs===
We are planning to put reinforced concrete the full 3' width of the Column Support Pads all the way around the outside of the building. They will be 3-1/2" (2x4 lumber size) deep and will support the two CEB walls that enclose the hay bale insulation. Rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.

====Preparing the rebar reinforcement assemblies====
[[How to bend rebar]]

Rebar Assembly for 13’ Outside Wall pads (make 11 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’6” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 6’4” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 12’6” by 2’6” dimensions.
#Measure and cut (1) 20’ piece of #4 rebar to 12’7” in length.
#Center the 12’7” piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld it into place.
[[File:Rebar for outside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

Rebar Assembly for 9’6” Outside Wall pads (make 2 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 4’7” from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’6” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 4’7” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 9’ by 2’6” dimensions.
#Measure and cut (1) 20’ piece of #4 rebar to 9’1” in length.
#Center the 9’1” piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld it into place.
[[File:Rebar for 9.5' outside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

Rebar Assembly for 7' Outside Wall pads (make 2 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 3’4” from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’6” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 3’4” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 6’6” by 2’6” dimensions.
#Measure and cut (1) 20’ piece of #4 rebar to 6'7" in length.
#Center the 6'7" piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld it into place.
[[File:Rebar for 7' outside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

====Preparing the concrete forms====
Our pouring plan requires these forms relating to the outside wall construction. For those wall pads that are part of our interior pads, additional forms are in other sections. If you are not pouring large interior pads, you will need to adjust the number of interior forms.

Exterior Forms for 13' Wall slabs. (make 10 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(2) 2"x4"x7' pine studs
*(1) piece of scrap lumber,
*(4) 3" screws
*Driver
''Steps to do:''
#Start two screws into the flat side of each end of the piece of scrap lumber.
#Butt the two 7' boards end to end
#Lay the piece of scrap lumber over the seam butt joint.
#Be sure the narrow sides of the boards are lined up evenly with each other.
#Drive the screws in completely to hold the boards in line.

Interior Forms for 13' Wall slabs. (make 5 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(2) 2"x4"x7' pine studs
*Measuring tape
*Pencil
*Saw
*(4) 3" screws
*Driver
''Steps to do:''
#Measure, mark, and cut one board to be 6' long.
#Start two screws into the flat side of each end of the 1' piece of scrap lumber.
#Butt the 6' piece with the other 7' board end to end
#Lay the piece of scrap lumber over the seam butt joint.
#Be sure the narrow sides of the boards are lined up evenly with each other.
#Drive the screws in completely to hold the boards in line.

Forms for Wall slabs on split-level section

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(6) 2"x4"x7' pine studs
*(4) 2"x4"x10' pine studs
*Measuring tape
*Pencil
*Saw
''Steps to do:''
#Measure, mark, and cut (2) 7' boards to be 6' long.
#Measure, mark, and cut (2) 10' boards to be 9'6" long.
#You will use the other boards uncut.

[[File:Exterior Wall Form Boards.png|thumb|600px|center]]

====Setting the forms====

===Narrow Wall Support Slabs===
We will support and stabilize the interior CEB walls with a 12" wide x 3-1/2" deep concrete slab. Rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.

====Preparing Rebar reinforcement assemblies====
Rebar Assembly for all 12” interior wall slabs

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(10) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 3’4” from one end.
#Bend 180⁰ the rebar with a 3” radius.
#Measure and mark so another 180⁰ with a 3” radius will produce 6’6” long assemblies.
#Cut the extra rebar (about 7’) off, leaving enough to tack weld each assembly together.

#Measure and mark (4) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 4’4” from the end.
#Bend 180⁰ with a 3” radius.
#Measure and mark so another 180⁰ with a 3” radius will produce 8’6” long assemblies.
#Cut the extra rebar off, leaving enough to tack weld each assembly together.

#Measure and mark (4) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” from the end.
#Bend 180⁰ with a 3” radius.
#Measure and mark so another 180⁰ with a 3” radius will produce 12’6” long assemblies.
#Use scrap cuttings (about 7’ long) to bridge the gap for each of these assemblies.
[[File:Rebar for 1' inside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

====Preparing the Concrete Forms====
These 12" wide slabs will provide a firm foundation on which to build our interior CEB room-dividing walls. Mostly they use the same sizes of forms you used for the outside walls. If you are pouring in small stages, you won't have build more forms because you can reuse the ones from the outside wall slabs. If you are going to pour all the concrete at once, you will need 7 more of the 13' inside form assemblies, 4 more uncut 7' boards, 2 more 7' boards cut to 6' lengths, 6 more boards cut to 9'6", and two boards cut to 9' in length.
Instructions for preparing all of these boards are found above - in the [[#Insulated Outside Wall Support Slabs/Preparing the Concrete Forms|Outside Wall Slabs]] section.

====Setting the Forms====

===Kitchen and Bath Areas===
The Kitchen and Bath Floor Areas both have a potential for receiving noticeable amounts of water. We consider it advisable to pave them both with concrete and include a central drain. Rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.
====Preparing the Rebar Assemblies====
Rebar Assembly for 16’x13’ slabs (make 2 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (4) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” from the end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Cut the long ends to 7’10” long.
#Overlap the short ends of two L-shaped pieces and measure to make a U shaped assembly with 12’6” between the legs.
#Make two of these assemblies.
#Overlap the legs of the U-shaped assemblies to make a rectangle measuring 15’6” x 12’6”
#Measure and cut (5) pieces of #4 rebar to 15’7” long.
#Measure and cut (7) pieces of #4 rebar to 12’7” long.
#Space and position the cut pieces into a 24” grid across the rectangle.
[[File:Rebar for between big slabs.png|thumb|600px|center]]

#Weld them into place.
[[File:Rebar for 16x13 slab.png|thumb|600px|center]]

There is one more assembly to go into this section between the two big ones. It is a modification of the exterior wall slab reinforcements.

Rebar Assembly for Interior 13’x3’ section of big Slab

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(2) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” #from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’ between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 6’4” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 12’6” by 2’ dimensions.

====Preparing the Concrete forms====
Because we are pouring this all at once, we decided to eliminate some complicated form work by including the equipment area and one room in this slab. This will be a big pour of concrete. It requires about 5 cubic yards of concrete. If you have plenty of time and are working in small batches, you can save over a yard of concrete by building the interior wall forms and pouring only wall-support pads - as shown on the layout.

The large slabs are laid between column pads, using 13' interior form assemblies. If you are pouring all at once, you will need two more of these assemblies, one more board cut to 9'6", and a piece of scrap about 3' long to complete the form work for this area. This, of course, assumes that you already have the exterior forms for the exterior wall slabs prepared. Instructions for preparing all of these are above in the [[#Insulated Outside Wall Support Slabs/Preparing the Concrete Forms|Outside Wall Slabs]]
section.
====Setting the Forms====

===Retaining Wall for Lower Level===
Ideas for this wall have been through several iterations. At present (Oct. 10th), we are planning to lay a 6" footer, 18" wide and 62' long. On top of that, we plan to put a 12" thick wall of bitumen-protected CEB. For the concrete footer, rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.
====Preparing the Rebar Assembly====
Rebar Assembly for Retaining wall footer

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(9) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Scrap #4 rebar to make (1) 6’ pieces and (1) 1’1” piece
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 8’ from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 12” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut (1) 6’ and (1) 1’1” piece of #4 rebar.
#Overlap and weld (1) 20’ length of rebar to each leg.
#Measure and weld the two longer legs together so the resulting assembly is 61’6” long.
#Weld the 6’ piece of rebar between the ends of the two shorter legs so that side is 61’6” long, too.
#Weld (3) 20’ pieces of #4 rebar into an approximately 60’ length of rebar.
#Center the 60’ piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld one end at the center of one end of the rectangle.
#Position the 1’1” piece of rebar across the rectangle to support the free end of the 60’ assembly.
#Weld the short piece to the three long ones.
[[File:Rebar Assembly for Retaining wall.png|thumb|600px|center]]
====Preparing the Concrete Form====
This is a really long form - 62 feet. You don't want to put it together ahead of time and try to carry it anywhere! What you ''do'' want to do is make sure you have all the pieces you will need cut and reserved against the time you will be setting the forms up.

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(8) 2"x6"x16' boards
*(6) Pieces of 2x4 or 2x6 scrap for splicing.
*Measuring tape
*Pencil
*Saw
''Steps to do''
#Measure and mark 18" from the end of (2) 2x6x16' boards
#Cut the two 18" pieces and mark them "form ends".
#Set aside the 6 16' boards, the 14'6" boards, the form ends, and all the scrap pieces in a reserve pile.

====Setting the Concrete Form====

==CEB Columns==

[[http://ww2.unhabitat.org/programmes/housingpolicy/Images/PDF.gif|UN CEB PDF]]

==CEB Arches==

[[http://ww2.unhabitat.org/programmes/housingpolicy/documents/Vault.pdf|UN Vaults PDF]]

[[http://www.amazon.com/Concrete-Hardness-Hammer-HT-225A-Portable/dp/B0049DDJCK/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1317915942&sr=8-6|Hardness Test Hammer]] for quality assurance

==CEB Floors==

[[http://www.velacreations.com/cebfloors.html|CEB Floor Instructions]]

==Insulated Roof==

# 16 11-member 2x6x16' frames
# a layer of tyvek
# a layer of lathe, mounted diagonally about 18" apart
# a layer of hay bales surrounded and around 2x12 spacers
# 16 11-member 2x4x16' frames
# agricultural roof panel on top and sides

Frames are built with one 16' beam on each end of 9 other 16' beams laid on 24" centers. These roof frames can be built quite quickly at any time labor is available, preferably ahead of time so that they can be installed as soon as the columns are ready to be covered.

==Super Insulated Walls==

2.5 foot thick wall.

4x6x12 bricks laid on the 12x4" side in standard wall layup, two walls outside surfaces 2.5' apart.

With air space left on either side, bales are stacked in the center of the wall, creating super insulation between the interior and exterior.

==Heating the HabLab==

I propose a [[http://www.heatkit.com Heatkit]] masonry furnace kit, surrounded by CEB

File:HabLab Planning.png

2011-10-17T13:49:06Z

Margaret Ida:

Hab Lab

2011-10-17T13:45:52Z

Margaret Ida: /* Planning */

The need for all-weather housing to shelter year-round members of the community, located where summers can be unpleasantly hot and winters unpleasantly cold, can be met with superinsulated designs. Here we will examine some possible options and our progress in bring them into existence. Planning tools, instructions, modifications, etc. will be included.

The [[Hab Lab Design Gallery|Design Page]] is a good place to see what has been offered and to post any of your own great ideas. More ideas are great for everybody!

==Survey & Design==
The area on the property for the first group habitation was on a noticeable slope. OSE staff members worked with a home-made water level to take measurements over a 100' square area.

How to make a water level: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nAcT_1T25LM

Ideas submitted for this project are located on the [[Hab Lab Design Gallery]] page.

===Building Orientation===
Oops!
Some of our pads got set 3' South of their intended site. Here is an emergency redesign idea.
[[File:Emergency Remodel HabLab.png|thumb|800px|center]]

==Planning==
There is a lot of planning that goes into building something like this. Here is a FreeMind mind map on that. It will be updated as we do more of it. The green nodes designate things we have completed - and therefore can 'go' forward with.

===Kitchen/Bath Water===

===Utility/Storage Area===

===Heating===
[[Space_Heating]]
====Source Material====
http://dnr.mo.gov/pubs/pub781.pdf

==Site Preparation==

The Hab Lab is designed to be supported by columns built of CEB (Compressed Earth Block)which are constructed on a reinforced concrete pad. Due to the slope of our site, we designed a lowered section which requires a low retaining wall. Included here are instructions for preparing the site with adequate footings.

Here is a picture with a preliminary excavation layout for the column pad sites and the retaining wall in the Hab Lab.
*When you are laying out the excavation site, be sure to add 5' in each direction for the excavator to work to.

[[File:HabLab Excavation Layout.png|thumb|800 px|center]]
This levels diagram is from our theoretical measurements - we actually wound up with a 2' drop, not a 2'8" drop. That will make only a minor difference in raising the building - changing the size of the retaining wall and removing one or two CEB's at the top of the lower columns to maintain the planned roof pitch.
[[File:Levels Diagram for Hab Lab Site.png|thumb|800 px|center]]

==Foundations & Column Slabs==

===Laying out the Hab Lab excavation site to be square===
''Collect equipment and supplies needed''
*Blueprint of site plan
*(2) 100’ Measuring tapes
*4 3-4’ stakes
*Hammer
*Bright spray paint
''Steps for Staking out the excavation site.''
#Choose a spot approximately 5 feet to the North and 5 feet to the West of the area to be excavated.
#Pound in a stake and spray paint the top foot or two of it.
#Measure due East a distance 10’ longer than the foundation width (total 67’).
#Place and paint another stake.
#Calculate a distance 10’ longer than the foundation length (total 62’).
#Calculate the diagonal measurement of the excavation site [Length(squared) x Width(squared) = Diagonal(squared)] (91'4").
#Measure due South from the Northwest stake the distance calculated in step 6.
#Set the second tape measure on the Northeast stake and measure the diagonal calculated in step 7 going Southwest.
#Set your third stake where the two measured lengths meet each other.
#Paint the stake.
#Measure due South from the Northeast stake the distance calculated in step 6.
#Set the second tape measure on the Northwest stake and measure the diagonal calculated in step 7 going Southeast.
#Set your fouth stake where the two measured lengths meet each other.
#Paint the stake.

*With the site leveled, the foundation holes for the column slabs must be laid out.
*After excavation, the stone fill for the foundation goes into the holes.
*At the same time, the 6" stone floor foundation is spread.

===Concrete forms and rebar reinforcing assemblies===
These can be built well ahead of need whenever volunteers are available.
*You could set up an assembly line effect to do them all at once with several people working together.
*An individual might do one unit at a time.
*An individual might do all the wood cutting at one time, another do all the rebar cutting at another time, another do all the rebar bending at another time.
*A couple of people might work together to get some wooden forms assembled once the pieces are cut, another time, a couple of people might work together to get some rebar assemblies welded.

The following step-by-step instructions are provided for building the forms and the reinforcing rebar assemblies.

[[How to bend rebar]]

[[https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=14oCxZUjs09wGuvaL4QTAII6hRxQpy20TKv7skH3INRWAVlXqtgdrh0D2ggtl&hl=en Assembly sheet for column pad forms]]

[[https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=1_hf2n-l9rCiEss45ZC8ogtMpeQki9fCoYIFdkD5x3lCOwjGh7Gknr-POJrNB&hl=en Rebar plan for column footings]]

===Laying out the locations for the forms on top of the foundation stone===
Once the form and rebar assemblies are built and the foundation stone is in place, the string site plan lay-out must be set up for placing the forms properly over their (now invisible) foundations. If you set your hole locating strings far enough out that the excavation didn't disturb them, this will be simple. It will be even easier if you rolled up your strings before the hole excavation got done and saved them. (See comments below!)

''Collect equipment and supplies needed''
*Blueprint of site plan
*100' tape measure
*Pre-placed marking stakes around outside of foundation site.
*Rolled up pre-used string balls from foundation hole layout
''Steps for Laying out Column Pad Form locations.''
#Measure to check that all pre-placed marking stakes are properly positioned.
#If any are missing or misplaced, replace or reposition them as needed.
#Unroll and retie the strings to their corresponding stakes across the foundation site .

Here's what the layout over the stone should look like.
[[File:HabLab Column Pad Form Layout.png|thumb|600 px|center]]

-Note-
We had a great plan for this - we would set our stakes out first to mark the hole edges at 4'x4', save the strings and move the stakes in by 6" to 3'x3' for the setting the pad forms.

However, when we tried it in real life - Well...
*We lost a lot of our stakes during the excavation.
*We found the holes tended to come out bigger than we had intended them to be.
*And once the stone was laid over the site, we couldn't see where the foundation holes were located!
We wound up remeasuring and resetting most of the stakes for laying out the pad site grid.
*We dug stone out of two of corners to find the edges of the foundation holes.
*We remeasured and reset corner marking stakes inside those edges.
*We retriangulated with the diagonals to assure the foundation square.
*And we remeasured and reset stakes along all the edges.

So we've rewritten the foundation lay-out plans as they are currently posted. In the current version, we set the stakes at the 3'x3' points to start with so they don't need to be moved. We also emphasized setting them firmly - and safely outside the excavation area.

-Later Note-
More sad experience - gained while setting the floor and wall forms and found our firmly set concrete East column pads were sitting 3' further South than they should have been!

What happened -
*The outlining strings for the site were set properly and square - good.
*However, while doing all of the fixing above, we got tired and thought up a short cut. We were short on stakes and we needed to mark both the hablab and the workshop sites for form placement (our 40 forms would require us to locate and put in some 40 stakes) We could place our forms easily enough in line with the strings with only one corner marked couldn't we? (That would require placing half as many stakes!)
*We started at the NorthWest corner and measured 16' East along the North line and staked that for a line. Then another 16' East we set another stake.
*Then we went back and did the same from the NorthWest corner to the South. - and from the SouthWest corner to the East.
*Finally we went down to the lower level and marked the East line of the site ''starting at the South end of the line''. - And we ran our strings.
*Later, we were tired and losing daylight when we set the forms in place along the lines on the Hab Lab site.
I suppose this short cut could have worked if we had checked more carfully:
*Rechecking the placement measurements is an obvious one.
*Standing back and looking for parallel lines is another obvious one.
*Looking for a cause when it was difficult to align the squarely built pads with the crossed strings would have been another solution.

So this is the layout we are actually working with now!
[[File:Oops HabLab Column Pad Form Layout.png|thumb|600px|center]]

We decided that an emergency floor plan change we came up with should compensate for this without having to redo most of the column pads. As we run into more complications, we'll post on them!

===Setting the column pad forms===
''Collect equipment and supplies needed''
*Supplies
**16 Pre-built column pad forms
**80 form stakes (we used 2"x2"x18" wooden stakes)
*Equipment
**Heavy Hammer(s)
**4'spirit Level
**Water level
**tape measure
''Steps to place Column Pad forms''
#Use with the center pad site on the upper level as the reference pad.
#Set a pre-built column pad form in place under the string lines with the inside of the forms under the strings.
#Drive two form stakes next to the outside of one side and one on each of the other three sides. They will need to sit deep enough that the tops of the stakes will be level with (or lower than) the top of the form.
#Level the form.
##Screw one of the stakes (on the side with two) to the side of the form so that the form sits 1/2" above the gravel level. Be sure that the top of the stake is level with (or lower than) the top of the form.
##Use the spirit level to set this side of the form level and screw it in position.
##Use the spirit level to set the opposite side of the form at the same level.
##Check the level on the other two sides and screw them in place.
#Use the water level to set the first level on each of the other pads on the upper level.
#Repeat the remainder of the leveling steps for each form.
#Use the water level to set the level of the center form in the lower level at 24" lower than the upper level pads.
#Complete the leveling steps for this form.
#Use the center form on the lower level for a reference form to set and level the remaining lower level column pad forms.

[[File:Setting Column Pad Forms Diagram.png|thumb|600 px|center]]

===Preparing Column Pad Forms for Reinforced Concrete===
Collect equipment and supplies needed
*Supplies
**16 Pre-built column pad rebar assemblies
**64 rebar chairs
*Equipment
**Rake(s)
**shovel
**tape measure
#Use a rake and shovel to remove about 2" of stone from the inside of the form. (until is 6" deep)
#Pack removed stone around outside of forms to create a fully enclosed 6" deep form.
#Use one prebuilt column pad rebar assembly for each column pad site.
#Center the rebar assembly with 3” gap between assembly and form wall on every side.
#Set rebar chairs under corners of prebuilt column pad rebar assemblies.-Put a stone or some gravel under the chairs if needed to center the rebar so it will sit at about the middle of the finished slab (3" off the floor of the form).

[[File:Preparing Column Pad Sites for Concrete Pouring.png|thumb|600 px|center]]

==Concrete Work==
We are preparing to do the big concrete pour. Using the FreeMind mind map model, this is the node that outlines the dependencies so we can be ready for that. Following sections include instructions for accomplishing them.
[[File:Dependencies for Getting Floors Poured.png|thumb|800px|center]]
Here is the planning layout for the concrete - which we are planning to do in one great big pour. We'll let you know how it goes!
[[File:HabLab Concrete Forms Layout.png|800px|center]]

===Insulated Outside Wall Support Slabs===
We are planning to put reinforced concrete the full 3' width of the Column Support Pads all the way around the outside of the building. They will be 3-1/2" (2x4 lumber size) deep and will support the two CEB walls that enclose the hay bale insulation. Rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.

====Preparing the rebar reinforcement assemblies====
[[How to bend rebar]]

Rebar Assembly for 13’ Outside Wall pads (make 11 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’6” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 6’4” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 12’6” by 2’6” dimensions.
#Measure and cut (1) 20’ piece of #4 rebar to 12’7” in length.
#Center the 12’7” piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld it into place.
[[File:Rebar for outside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

Rebar Assembly for 9’6” Outside Wall pads (make 2 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 4’7” from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’6” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 4’7” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 9’ by 2’6” dimensions.
#Measure and cut (1) 20’ piece of #4 rebar to 9’1” in length.
#Center the 9’1” piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld it into place.
[[File:Rebar for 9.5' outside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

Rebar Assembly for 7' Outside Wall pads (make 2 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 3’4” from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’6” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 3’4” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 6’6” by 2’6” dimensions.
#Measure and cut (1) 20’ piece of #4 rebar to 6'7" in length.
#Center the 6'7" piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld it into place.
[[File:Rebar for 7' outside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

====Preparing the concrete forms====
Our pouring plan requires these forms relating to the outside wall construction. For those wall pads that are part of our interior pads, additional forms are in other sections. If you are not pouring large interior pads, you will need to adjust the number of interior forms.

Exterior Forms for 13' Wall slabs. (make 10 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(2) 2"x4"x7' pine studs
*(1) piece of scrap lumber,
*(4) 3" screws
*Driver
''Steps to do:''
#Start two screws into the flat side of each end of the piece of scrap lumber.
#Butt the two 7' boards end to end
#Lay the piece of scrap lumber over the seam butt joint.
#Be sure the narrow sides of the boards are lined up evenly with each other.
#Drive the screws in completely to hold the boards in line.

Interior Forms for 13' Wall slabs. (make 5 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(2) 2"x4"x7' pine studs
*Measuring tape
*Pencil
*Saw
*(4) 3" screws
*Driver
''Steps to do:''
#Measure, mark, and cut one board to be 6' long.
#Start two screws into the flat side of each end of the 1' piece of scrap lumber.
#Butt the 6' piece with the other 7' board end to end
#Lay the piece of scrap lumber over the seam butt joint.
#Be sure the narrow sides of the boards are lined up evenly with each other.
#Drive the screws in completely to hold the boards in line.

Forms for Wall slabs on split-level section

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(6) 2"x4"x7' pine studs
*(4) 2"x4"x10' pine studs
*Measuring tape
*Pencil
*Saw
''Steps to do:''
#Measure, mark, and cut (2) 7' boards to be 6' long.
#Measure, mark, and cut (2) 10' boards to be 9'6" long.
#You will use the other boards uncut.

[[File:Exterior Wall Form Boards.png|thumb|600px|center]]

====Setting the forms====

===Narrow Wall Support Slabs===
We will support and stabilize the interior CEB walls with a 12" wide x 3-1/2" deep concrete slab. Rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.

====Preparing Rebar reinforcement assemblies====
Rebar Assembly for all 12” interior wall slabs

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(10) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 3’4” from one end.
#Bend 180⁰ the rebar with a 3” radius.
#Measure and mark so another 180⁰ with a 3” radius will produce 6’6” long assemblies.
#Cut the extra rebar (about 7’) off, leaving enough to tack weld each assembly together.

#Measure and mark (4) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 4’4” from the end.
#Bend 180⁰ with a 3” radius.
#Measure and mark so another 180⁰ with a 3” radius will produce 8’6” long assemblies.
#Cut the extra rebar off, leaving enough to tack weld each assembly together.

#Measure and mark (4) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” from the end.
#Bend 180⁰ with a 3” radius.
#Measure and mark so another 180⁰ with a 3” radius will produce 12’6” long assemblies.
#Use scrap cuttings (about 7’ long) to bridge the gap for each of these assemblies.
[[File:Rebar for 1' inside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

====Preparing the Concrete Forms====
These 12" wide slabs will provide a firm foundation on which to build our interior CEB room-dividing walls. Mostly they use the same sizes of forms you used for the outside walls. If you are pouring in small stages, you won't have build more forms because you can reuse the ones from the outside wall slabs. If you are going to pour all the concrete at once, you will need 7 more of the 13' inside form assemblies, 4 more uncut 7' boards, 2 more 7' boards cut to 6' lengths, 6 more boards cut to 9'6", and two boards cut to 9' in length.
Instructions for preparing all of these boards are found above - in the [[#Insulated Outside Wall Support Slabs/Preparing the Concrete Forms|Outside Wall Slabs]] section.

====Setting the Forms====

===Kitchen and Bath Areas===
The Kitchen and Bath Floor Areas both have a potential for receiving noticeable amounts of water. We consider it advisable to pave them both with concrete and include a central drain. Rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.
====Preparing the Rebar Assemblies====
Rebar Assembly for 16’x13’ slabs (make 2 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (4) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” from the end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Cut the long ends to 7’10” long.
#Overlap the short ends of two L-shaped pieces and measure to make a U shaped assembly with 12’6” between the legs.
#Make two of these assemblies.
#Overlap the legs of the U-shaped assemblies to make a rectangle measuring 15’6” x 12’6”
#Measure and cut (5) pieces of #4 rebar to 15’7” long.
#Measure and cut (7) pieces of #4 rebar to 12’7” long.
#Space and position the cut pieces into a 24” grid across the rectangle.
[[File:Rebar for between big slabs.png|thumb|600px|center]]

#Weld them into place.
[[File:Rebar for 16x13 slab.png|thumb|600px|center]]

There is one more assembly to go into this section between the two big ones. It is a modification of the exterior wall slab reinforcements.

Rebar Assembly for Interior 13’x3’ section of big Slab

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(2) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” #from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’ between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 6’4” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 12’6” by 2’ dimensions.

====Preparing the Concrete forms====
Because we are pouring this all at once, we decided to eliminate some complicated form work by including the equipment area and one room in this slab. This will be a big pour of concrete. It requires about 5 cubic yards of concrete. If you have plenty of time and are working in small batches, you can save over a yard of concrete by building the interior wall forms and pouring only wall-support pads - as shown on the layout.

The large slabs are laid between column pads, using 13' interior form assemblies. If you are pouring all at once, you will need two more of these assemblies, one more board cut to 9'6", and a piece of scrap about 3' long to complete the form work for this area. This, of course, assumes that you already have the exterior forms for the exterior wall slabs prepared. Instructions for preparing all of these are above in the [[#Insulated Outside Wall Support Slabs/Preparing the Concrete Forms|Outside Wall Slabs]]
section.
====Setting the Forms====

===Retaining Wall for Lower Level===
Ideas for this wall have been through several iterations. At present (Oct. 10th), we are planning to lay a 6" footer, 18" wide and 62' long. On top of that, we plan to put a 12" thick wall of bitumen-protected CEB. For the concrete footer, rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.
====Preparing the Rebar Assembly====
Rebar Assembly for Retaining wall footer

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(9) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Scrap #4 rebar to make (1) 6’ pieces and (1) 1’1” piece
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 8’ from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 12” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut (1) 6’ and (1) 1’1” piece of #4 rebar.
#Overlap and weld (1) 20’ length of rebar to each leg.
#Measure and weld the two longer legs together so the resulting assembly is 61’6” long.
#Weld the 6’ piece of rebar between the ends of the two shorter legs so that side is 61’6” long, too.
#Weld (3) 20’ pieces of #4 rebar into an approximately 60’ length of rebar.
#Center the 60’ piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld one end at the center of one end of the rectangle.
#Position the 1’1” piece of rebar across the rectangle to support the free end of the 60’ assembly.
#Weld the short piece to the three long ones.
[[File:Rebar Assembly for Retaining wall.png|thumb|600px|center]]
====Preparing the Concrete Form====
This is a really long form - 62 feet. You don't want to put it together ahead of time and try to carry it anywhere! What you ''do'' want to do is make sure you have all the pieces you will need cut and reserved against the time you will be setting the forms up.

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(8) 2"x6"x16' boards
*(6) Pieces of 2x4 or 2x6 scrap for splicing.
*Measuring tape
*Pencil
*Saw
''Steps to do''
#Measure and mark 18" from the end of (2) 2x6x16' boards
#Cut the two 18" pieces and mark them "form ends".
#Set aside the 6 16' boards, the 14'6" boards, the form ends, and all the scrap pieces in a reserve pile.

====Setting the Concrete Form====

==CEB Columns==

[[http://ww2.unhabitat.org/programmes/housingpolicy/Images/PDF.gif|UN CEB PDF]]

==CEB Arches==

[[http://ww2.unhabitat.org/programmes/housingpolicy/documents/Vault.pdf|UN Vaults PDF]]

[[http://www.amazon.com/Concrete-Hardness-Hammer-HT-225A-Portable/dp/B0049DDJCK/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1317915942&sr=8-6|Hardness Test Hammer]] for quality assurance

==CEB Floors==

[[http://www.velacreations.com/cebfloors.html|CEB Floor Instructions]]

==Insulated Roof==

# 16 11-member 2x6x16' frames
# a layer of tyvek
# a layer of lathe, mounted diagonally about 18" apart
# a layer of hay bales surrounded and around 2x12 spacers
# 16 11-member 2x4x16' frames
# agricultural roof panel on top and sides

Frames are built with one 16' beam on each end of 9 other 16' beams laid on 24" centers. These roof frames can be built quite quickly at any time labor is available, preferably ahead of time so that they can be installed as soon as the columns are ready to be covered.

==Super Insulated Walls==

2.5 foot thick wall.

4x6x12 bricks laid on the 12x4" side in standard wall layup, two walls outside surfaces 2.5' apart.

With air space left on either side, bales are stacked in the center of the wall, creating super insulation between the interior and exterior.

==Heating the HabLab==

I propose a [[http://www.heatkit.com Heatkit]] masonry furnace kit, surrounded by CEB

Forms and Concrete Work

2011-10-17T11:59:12Z

Margaret Ida:

The Workshop floor will be bearing the weight of heavy equipment for manufacturing the tools in the basic tool set. And, of course, the prepared power cubes, Life-Tracs, and other tools will have to be moved around on that floor. Reinforced concrete has been designed to provide a durable surface for these purposes.

The Concrete pads to support the CEB Columns were designed to be constructed separately first. Slabs of reinforced concrete are to be poured into forms built against the column pads.

Assemblies providing rebar reinforcement at 18" intervals in both directions across the slab were designed for pre-assembly as follows.

[[How to bend rebar]]

[[File:Rebar assembly for delivery slab.png|thumb|600 px|center]]
[[File:Rebar_assembly_for_supply_shed_21x21_slab.png|thumb|600 px|center]]
[[File:Rebar_assembly_for_corner_16x21_slab.png|thumb|600 px|center]]
[[File:Rebar_assembly_for_edge_16x21_slab.png|thumb|600 px|center]]
[[File:Rebar_assembly_for_edge_16x16_slab.png|thumb|600 px|center]]
[[File:Rebar_assembly_for_interior_16x16_slab.png|thumb|600 px|center]]
[[File:Rebar_assembly_for_corner_16x16_slab.png|thumb|600 px|center]]
[[File:Rebar_assembly_for_21x21_corner_slab.png|thumb|600 px|center]]

Forms and Concrete Work

2011-10-16T15:15:07Z

Margaret Ida:

The Workshop floor will be bearing the weight of heavy equipment for manufacturing the tools in the basic tool set. And, of course, the prepared power cubes, Life-Tracs, and other tools will have to be moved around on that floor. Reinforced concrete has been designed to provide a durable surface for these purposes.

The Concrete pads to support the CEB Columns were designed to be constructed separately first. Slabs of reinforced concrete are to be poured into forms built against the column pads.

Assemblies providing rebar reinforcement at 18" intervals in both directions across the slab were designed for pre-assembly as follows.
[[How to bend rebar]]

[[File:Rebar assembly for delivery slab.png|thumb|600 px|center]]
[[File:Rebar_assembly_for_supply_shed_21x21_slab.png|thumb|600 px|center]]
[[File:Rebar_assembly_for_corner_16x21_slab.png|thumb|600 px|center]]
[[File:Rebar_assembly_for_edge_16x21_slab.png|thumb|600 px|center]]
[[File:Rebar_assembly_for_edge_16x16_slab.png|thumb|600 px|center]]
[[File:Rebar_assembly_for_interior_16x16_slab.png|thumb|600 px|center]]
[[File:Rebar_assembly_for_corner_16x16_slab.png|thumb|600 px|center]]
[[File:Rebar_assembly_for_21x21_corner_slab.png|thumb|600 px|center]]

OSE Shop 2011

2011-10-16T15:13:38Z

Margaret Ida: /* Prebuilt Rebar Assemblies */

{{breadcrumb|Housing and construction}}
=Introduction=

This year, we are putting our construction tools (CEB Press, Tractor, Soil Pulverizer, and Power Cube) through the most rigorous field test to date: the construction of 10 living units and a 3,000 square foot fabrication facility here at Factor E Farm. We have already achieved the highest brick pressing rates of any open source model (slide: 16 bricks/minute, 5,000 bricks/day), and now we are aiming to complete the package by achieving five dollar per square foot construction costs while remaining within industry standard construction schedules. Our goal is to improve dramatically the efficiency of natural building, far surpassing the benchmarks of earthbag, cordwood, strawbale, cob, rammed earth, adobe, earthship, and papercrete techniques while keeping the ecological footprint to bare minimums. We will publish a full energy accounting report, including embodied energy estimates for materials and the "joules per day" of both biological and electromechanical systems.

So far as we know, this will be a global first: the highest embodied energy efficiencies and the highest construction efficiencies at the lowest cost and with the least environmental impact. Our aim with This Last Mile is to lower the barriers to creating sustainable human settlements by providing access to powerful, low-cost, open source tools that anyone can use to build and transform their environment.

=2011 Workshop Building Implementation=

==Building Project Updates==

<html>
<iframe width="560" height="349" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed//WOs1OftBCx8" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
</html>

Project Manager David's latest progress report on the project.

==Shop Instructions At This Stage==
Instruction pages for each step of the project are being prepared and will be posted periodically as time and availability allow.

===Planning===
[[Workshop Planning Activities]]

How to make a water level: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nAcT_1T25LM

[[File:8-20-21_Goals.png|500px|thumb|center]]

Also see [[Factor_e_Farm_Infrastructure_Buildout_2011]]
====STAGING AREA CONSIDERATIONS====
This shop project is done with a modular design. This way the putting-it-all-together part of the construction doesn't get slowed down or interrupted by the need to fabricate parts before moving on. However, this also means that building supplies for fabrication will need to be stored and protected before they are used; a work area for preparing the modules needs to be considered; and pre-fabricated parts will also need to be stored and protected between the time they are fabricated and the time they are needed. Where to keep them - especially the large ones like roof frames and roof stringers - deserves some consideration.
*Building Supplies
**Location
***Close enough to the pre-building tools and equipment that parts don't have to be carried too far.
***Close enough to the module storage site that completed assemblies don't have to be carried too far.
***Out of the way of general traffic lanes so they don't have to be maneuvered around for other work or climbed over to get completed work to its storage area.
**Size - Big enough to accommodate the largest supplies in stacks - and boxes and buckets of smaller items.
**Organized
***Parts lists posted.
***parts needed for specific projects stored together.
***Module instructions posted as they become available.
*Work area
**May be an area in general use that is made available temporarily while modules are being assembled.
**Space needed depends on which modules are being prepared.
*Completed Modules
**Location of completed modules
***Out of the way of general traffic lanes.
***Close enough to the building site that parts will be easily accessible when needed.
***Not so close that they interfere with easy access to the site for preliminary work.
**Size
***Big enough to accommodate the largest modules in workable-sized piles
***Expandable as more modules are completed.
**Protection
***Rain
***Wind
***Storm run-off water

===Site Preparation===
Preparation of staging areas and building sites gets your project moving smoothly.

====Preparing the Site for Building====

=====Clearing the building site=====
Our building site had several pieces of farm equipment sitting around. It also had a couple of old hay bales on it. Some experimental CEB columns had been built about 3-4' high and were protected by a 24'x24' assembled prototype roof. The area not covered by the roof was completely over-grown with weedy "biomass" and left-over materials from the column-building project turned up around the area too. Then when we laid out an approximate footprint for the workshop, there was one large tree and several smaller ones that hung dangerously over the prospective workshop site. All this needed to be cleared before we could begin the actual foundation work. There was so much work to do that we divided it into separate tasks.

======Move the pre-existing roof======
We decided to re-use this roof - which became a quite a project in and of itself. How we did this is covered on the [[OSE Shop 2011/OSE Mill Shed 2011|Mill Shed]] page.

======Move Large Pieces of Farm Equipment======
''Collect equipment and supplies needed''
*Hedge clippers
*machete
*pruners
*Life-Trac tractor
''Steps to follow''
#Locate and identify pieces of equipment to be moved.
#Use hand tools to cut down weedy growth around each piece.
#Designate a place on farm to use each piece - or at least designate an out-of-the-way storage area for them.
#Use Life-Trac to transport items to their designated resting places.
======Move old hay bales======
''Collect equipment and supplies needed''
*Hedge clippers
*machete
*pruners
*Life-Trac tractor with hay pole attachment
''Steps to follow''
#Locate old hay bales on the workshop site.
#Use hand tools to cut down weedy growth around them.
#Designate a place on farm to use old hay bales -we decided that they might be useful for mulch in the garden or orchard area.
#Use Life-Trac to transport hay bales to a resting place near their prospective use areas.
======Move building debris, etc.======
''Collect equipment and supplies needed''
*Hedge clippers
*machete
*pruners
*Wheelbarrow
''Steps to follow''
#Use hand tools to cut down weedy growth and locate debris to be moved.
#Identify types of debris - i.e. old tires, reusable plastic, metal items, etc.
#Designate places for storage of each type of debris.
#Use wheelbarrow to transport debris to its resting places.
======Remove overhanging trees======
''Collect equipment and supplies needed''
*Chain Saw
*large Pruners
*hand pruners
*Life-Trac with bucket
*Pick-up truck
''Steps to follow''
*Designate trees for removal
*Designate location for disposal of debris
**Usable lumber sections - by mill shed
**Canopy pieces - we put this material across the farm and set the chipper near it - maybe we'll chip it into some mulch.
*Use the Chain Saw to cut down the trees - one at a time.
**Remove branches as needed for access to trunk
**Fell the tree to lie in convenient working location
*Cut branches at the main forks until millable lumber is all that remains
*Cut forks off the branches with pruners (and chain saw if necessary) to hand-manageable size.
*Chain saw branches to hand-manageable size. eut Transport pieces by foot or power to deposit site
*Load leafy materials and smaller branches onto Pickup for transport to chipping/deposit area.
*Cut millable trunks into as long sections as are manageable.
*Use Life-Trac bucket to transport millable sections to drying site near the mill shed.
======Demolish Experimental Columns======
''Collect equipment and supplies needed''
*Life-Trac with bucket
*Life-Trac with fork
''Steps to follow''
#Designate storage location for concrete pads and deposit site for CEB bricks.
#Push CEB's off concrete pads with Life-Trac bucket.
#Deposit CEB's in low area of foundation site and compact by running over them a couple of times.
#Pick up the concrete pads with fork - it took us one helper on the ground with a lever to get them properly set on the tines for lifting and transport.
#Transport and deposit the slabs in their resting place. We chose a place not too far away so we could get them back for recyling into part of our loading dock.
#Pick up

=====Laying out the building site=====
We set up a plan for doing this work ourselves, but we ran short of time and hired a professional to come and do the excavation including leveling the site, digging the pad foundation holes, and spreading the stone foundation material.
Nevertheless, we did have to stake out the excavation site and locate the holes to dig out.
Here's a quick way to get the first staking done and be sure that it is square.

======''Workshop''======

''Collect equipment and supplies needed''
*Blueprint of site plan
*(2) 100’ Measuring tapes
*4 3-4’ stakes
*Hammer
*Bright spray paint

#Choose a spot approximately 5 feet to the North and 5 feet to the West of the area to be excavated.
#Pound in a stake and spray paint the top foot or two of it.
#Measure due East a distance 10’ longer than the foundation width (total 67’).
#Place and paint another stake.
#Calculate a distance 10’ longer than the foundation length (total 83’).
#Calculate the diagonal measurement of the excavation site [Length(squared) x Width(squared) = Diagonal(squared)] (106'8").
#Measure due South from the Northwest stake the distance calculated in step 5.
#Set the second tape measure on the Northeast stake and measure the diagonal calculated in step 6 going Southwest.
#Set your third stake where the two measured lengths meet each other.
#Paint the stake.
#Measure due South from the Northeast stake the distance calculated in step 5.
#Set the second tape measure on the Northeast stake and measure the diagonal calculated in step 6 going Southwest.
#Set your fouth stake where the two measured lengths meet each other.
#Paint the stake.

Here is a drawing with dimensions for laying out site for excavation of the column pad holes.
The green lines indicate where the storm drainage ditch is planned to run.
[[File:Workshop site Excavation layout.png|thumb|800 px|center]]

======''Additional delivery area and storage/equipment shed''======
(We set this area to the south of the workshop and lined it up with the first row of columns in from the West wall.)

''Collect equipment and supplies needed''
*Blueprint of site plan
*(2) 100’ Measuring tapes
*4 3-4’ stakes
*Hammer
*Bright spray paint

#Measure 21’ to the West from the Southeast stake along the South excavation line.
#Set a stake there and paint it.
#Measure 11’ to the East from the Southwest stake along the South Excavation line.
#Set a stake there and paint it.[The distance between the stakes should be 10’ greater than the width of the storage shed foundation. (total 35’)]
#Calculate the combined distance of the delivery area and the storage shed foundation (total 45’).
#Calculate the diagonal measurement of this part of the site [Length(squared) x Width(squared) = Diagonal(squared)] (57').
#Measure the distance calculated in step 5 due South from the stake set in step 2.
#Set the second tape measure on the stake set in step 4 and measure the diagonal calculated in step 6 towards the Southwest.
#Set your third stake where the two measured lengths meet each other.
#Paint the stake.
#Measure the distance calculated in step 5 due South from the stake set in step 4.
#Set the second tape measure on the stake set in step 2 and measure the diagonal calculated in step 6 towards the Southeast.
#Set your fourth stake where the two measured lengths meet each other.
#Paint the stake.

======''Area for Drainage ditches around the workshop''======
We had pre-existing drainage channels to the West of the site and to the South of the site. Still, we considered it important to plan for grassy waterways to the North and West of our low-lying site to keep storm water drainage under control at the Factor E Farm site. Working from theory, we developed some possible plans. In consultation with the excavator, we changed some of them.
*Updates will follow.

Layout

''Collect equipment and supplies needed''
*Blueprint of site plan
*(2) 100’ Measuring tapes
*4 3-4’ stakes
*Hammer

Steps:
*Extend the South (East/West) Supply Shed foundation excavation line an additional 5’ to the East.
*Move the painted Southeast Supply Shed stake to this mark.
*Extend the South (East/West) workshop foundation excavation line an additional 5’ to the East.
*Move the painted Southeast workshop stake to this mark.
*Extend the West (North/South) workshop foundation excavation line an additional 5’ to the North.
*Move the painted Northwest stake to this mark.
*Extend the East (North/South) workshop foundation excavation line an additional 5’ to the North.
*Extend the North (East/West) workshop foundation excavation lines an additional 5’ to the East.
*Move the painted Northeast stake to a point close to where the last two extensions would meet.

======''Setting the level for the workshop''======
(We designed our floor to be level on the East/West axis and slope slightly on the North/South axis).

''Collect equipment and supplies needed''
*Levels Blueprint of site plan
*Water level
*1 Measuring tape
*1 Permanent marker

#Use the Water level to determine the relative level difference between the Southeast stake and the Northeast stake.
#Write 'at grade' on the lower stake.
#Mark on the higher stake the difference from level for excavation.
#Use the Water level to determine the difference in level between the Northwest stake and the Northeast stake.
#Calculate the excavation level to be 6" lower than the grade level at the Northwest stake.
#Mark the stake.
#Use the Water level to determine the difference in level between the Southwest stake and the Southeast stake.
#Calculate the excavation level to be 6" lower than the grade level at the Southwest stake.
#Use the Water level to check that the excavation markings on the Northwest and Southwest stakes indicate they are on level.

The first draft plan looked like this, if you are interested.
[[https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=1DZGHOq5_jYsO4SwlsuEU37nDyT_9pnnM3C2oKWiyMbLQwFtXj5GdIEhpIhYv&hl=en Detailed stakeout of building plan]]

=====Preparing footings and base=====
We designed footings for the concrete pads supporting our CEB columns to be 4'x4' wide and 3' deep. There are 20 columns in our workshop design and 4 columns in the storage/equipment shed. Locations for each of these footings have to be marked out - and then excavated - and then filled and compacted. We also put a 6" gravel base under the entire concrete floor.

======''Laying out the column pad hole sites''======

''Collect equipment and supplies needed''
*Blueprint of site plan
*(1) 100’ Measuring tape
*40 stakes
*Hammer
* 800-1500 ft. (500 m.) string
* 1 pre-built column pad form
* 1 can marking paint (it will paint when it's turned up-side-down)

*Workshop Stake and string steps:
#Run a line from the NorthWest excavation stake to the NorthEast excavation stake.
#Choose a point along the line about 6' East of the NorthWest stake and place a stake.(This will be the North end of the North/South origin line.)
#Run a line from the SouthWest workshop excavation stake to the SouthEast workshop excavation stake.
#Set a stake along this line to match the one on the North side of the site.
#Set stakes along each line at intervals of 3', 13', 3', 13', 3', 18', and 3'. (Starting at the stakes set in steps 2 and 4, the distances will be 3', 16', 19', 32', 35', 53', and 56')
#Run a line from the NorthWest excavation stake to the SouthWest excavation stake.
#Choose a point along the line about 11' South of the NorthWest stake and place a stake.
#Run a line from the NorthEast excavation stake to the SouthEast excavation stake.
#Set a stake along this line to match the one on the West side of the site.
#Set stakes along each line at intervals of 3', 18', 3', 13', 3', 13', 3', 13' and 3'. (Starting at the stakes set in steps 6 and 8, the distances will be 3', 21', 24', 37', 40', 53', 56', 69' and 72')
#Run a string between the two stakes set in steps 7 and 9.
#Run East/West string lines from each stake set along the West line in step #10 to the corresponding stake set on the East line in that step.
#Run a string between the two stakes set in steps 2 and 4.
#Run North/South string lines from each stake set along the North line in step #5 to the corresponding stake set on the South lines in that step.
*Storage/Equipment Shed Stake and string steps:
#Run a line from the SouthWest Shed excavation stake to the SouthEast Shed excavation stake.
#Identify the two North/South lines that form the North/South row of shop columns 21' West of the East side of the shop.
#Extend those two lines to intersect with the line run just run in step 1.
#Place stakes at the intersection points. (These stakes should be 3' apart.)
#Measure 2l' and 24' along the South shed excavation line from the Eastern stake and place two stakes.
#Measure along the more Easterly of these two lines 20' from the South workshop pad string line.
#Place a stake here.
#Place three more stakes at intervals of 3', 18', and 3' to the South.
#Measure along the South foundation line to a point 14' East of the North/South origin line (set in steps 2 and 4 above) and set a stake.
#Run a line from this stake to the stake set 24' along the South shed excavation line in step 6.
#Place three more stakes at intervals of 3', 18', and 3' to the North of this stake. (The most northerly of these should be 20' South of the South workshop foundation line.
#Run lines between corresponding stakes to create a 24' square grid showing (4) 3'x3' column pad locations.
#Extend the East/West lines about 5' in each direction and move the outside stakes there - so they don't get lost during the excavation and stone laying. You will need them to set the pad forms in place.
*Painting steps:
#Lay the pre-built column pad form under one of the 3'x3' squares marked by the grid of strings.
#Use the marking paint to mark a square on the ground outside the wooden form.
#Repeat for each of the (20) 3'x3' squares on the workshop foundation and each of the (4)3'x3' squares on the Storage/Equipment shed foundation.

======''Excavating the column pad holes''======
Once the hole locations were marked, we needed to get the strings we had used to locate them out of the way of the excavator. But we also were going to need them marking the same locations when we placed the forms for the column pads on top of the foundation stone - which would completely hide them from view! So here is our solution.

'''Save the location markers'''

''equipment needed''
*24 pieces of wooden scrap
*hammer
''What to do''
#Make sure that all the location-marking string stakes are firmly planted at least 5' outside the foundation's footprint.
#Untie the East end of an East/West marking string.
#Wind the string up on a piece of wooden scrap, following it across the excavation site, and set it next to the stake outside the foundation at the West end.
#Wind up all the East/West strings in the same manner.
#Untie the South end of the North/South marking strings that only mark the workshop foundation lines.
#Wind these strings up and set the ball next to the stakes outside the foundation at the North end.
#Untie the North ends and the East ends of the storage/equipment shed marking strings.
#Wind them up and set them by the stakes at the outside of the shed foundation on the South and the West.

'''Dig the holes'''
We had a professional come in at this point and dig the marked hole sites.

We hope to do our own excavating on another project. I'll put in some thoughts about that, but first, let's look at some of the things we learned working (as amateurs) with a professional dirt moving contractor.
It seems that an experienced back-hoe operator can do a pretty good job of digging our 4'x4'x3' holes!
*We laid out and marked 4'x4' squares, but many of the dug holes came out 6" or more wider in length and width than planned.
*And the first holes were dug the full 36" deep since we didn't communicate well that we only needed 32" of hole depth. (Since we put 6" of foundation gravel on the graded level and set the pad foundations 2" down into that layer, we only really needed 32" deep holes.)
The result was that it took more foundation stone than we originally planned for.
*We were able to limit the (financial) damage by catching the depth problem less than half-way through the digging.
*We rewrote the lay-out instructions to mark the holes with a smaller footprint - it's pretty easy to widen a hole that's too small to start with - but pretty near impossible to do the opposite!

*Now - about doing our own excavating:
**You could use a backhoe bucket on your Life-Trac -
***practice somewhere else first to get the hang of it!
***As mentioned, it's pretty easy to widen a hole that's too small to start with - but pretty near impossible to do the opposite!
***And you have to be careful when moving around the site to stay away from the edges of holes aready dug.
**You could use an auger on your Life-Trac to start the corners, loosen the soil, and get some of it up. Then finish with manual labor.
**If you don't have power equipment, digging foundations for a building this size would be a lengthy - and very labor intensive - project!

I'll put up a possible step-by-step for that.

'''Dispose of the excavated dirt'''
Our professionals pushed the excess dirt off the foundation area to the North and the South where the ground could use some filling and it was out of the way of the project.

My step-by-step has you moving it as it is excavated.

However you do it, you can't move on to laying your foundation stone until the building site is level again!

======''Laying stone foundation''======
This part of our project was, again, completed by our friends with the heavy equipment (and a laser level)- which made short work of pushing around and compacting a large amount of stone. We learned more by observation than by doing it ourselves this time.

''Supplies and equipment needed''
*(20) 2"x2"x12" leveling stakes
*300 ft. (100 m.) string
*hammer(s)
*tamper
*Water level

''Steps to follow''
#Start at one corner of the foundation area and locate a leveling stake a few inches outside the corner of the excavated pad hole.
#Drive it into the ground until its top is 6" above the graded level.
#Tie the string around the post as close as possible to the top.
#Locate a stake in the same way outside each foundation hole and at each corner of the building footprint.
#Run the string around the entire foundation site, wrapping it around each post so that it is pulled tight.
#As the gravel truck delivers it, push gravel into the holes and around them to the height of the string.
#Use the tamper to compact the gravel every 12" as you fill the holes if you are doing this manually.
#-Or- Drive the heavy truck over the gravel fill when it has been spread to compact it.
#Continue to fill holes and spread gravel over the site until the foundation stone is evenly spread and compacted to the height of the leveling stakes.
#Use the water level to check that the gravel is spread evenly over the site, dropping about 1/2" every 5' from East to West.

GOOD WORK! NOW YOU'RE READY TO SET THE COLUMN PAD FORMS AND PREPARE THEM FOR A CONCRETE POUR!

[[Site Preparation Instructions]]

===CEB Columns===
Compressed Earth Blocks (CEB) are at the heart of the ecological economy of this Workshop design. We use them to build the columns that support the roof as well as the walls to enclose the working space. For stability, the columns are constructed on a reinforced concrete pad laid on a stone footing. Instructions for preparing the site with adequate footings are on the [[Site Preparation Instructions]] page.

Our construction model is a modular one in order to use available people and time efficiently.
*We acquire supplies as our finances allow.
*We build the needed number of each sub-assembly in available time with available labor.
**An individual might build one unit at a time.
**Individuals with particular skills might work on completing a single step of the project.
**A couple of people available to work together on a project step will, most likely, be more time efficient.
**Several people working in assembly line fashion might complete an entire run of sub-assemblies efficiently.
*We construct with prebuilt assemblies.
In this column project, prebuilt assemblies to be used are:
*Concrete Forms
*Rebar Assemblies
*Roof Ties

====Concrete Foundation Pads====
=====Prebuilt Forms=====
''Supplies and equipment needed''
*(48) 2"x4"x7' stud beams
*(288) 3" deck screws
*tape measure
*pencil
*driver
*saw
*(optional) saw jig
''Steps to do''
#Mark (2) beams at 37-1/2" from each end. (Alternatively, set up a jig with a stop 37-1/2" from the saw blade.)
#Cut four form side pieces.
#Butt two pieces at right angles and screw them together.
#Repeat step 3
#Butt and screw these two assemblies in a pinwheel style to create a form with an inside measurement of 3'x3'.

[[File:Form box for column pads diagram.png|thumb|600px|center]]

=====Prebuilt Rebar Assemblies=====
[[How to bend rebar]]

''Supplies and equipment needed''
*(18) 20' #4 rebars
*Rebar wire (if you don't have a welder)
*tape measure
*marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender (Shonda used a bench vice and a length of pipe for leverage - I'll ask him to document how that works!)
*metal saw
*spot welder
''Steps to do''
#Measure, mark, and cut 12 rebars into (24) 10' lengths.
#Measure, mark, and cut 6 rebars into (48) 30" lengths.
#Take a 10' piece of rebar and use four (4) bends to create a 30" square with an overlap on one side. (if you are wiring them rather than welding, make it an inch smaller so you can wire the cross pieces on.)
##Shonda says he used 2 inches of material between the vice and bending pipe. This gave him the same side length after bending as before.
##Since we wanted a side 30" long, he marked at 30" and positioned the bend pipe there.
##Then he clamped at 28" and did the bend.
##The end result was a 30" side with a 1 1/2 to 2" bend radius.
#Spot weld the overlapping ends to stabilize the shape. (Alternatively, wire the overlap together.)
#Spot weld one 30" piece one way across the square about half-way between the corners. (Alternatively, wire the two ends to the sides of the square)
#Spot weld another 30" piece the other way across the square.(Alternatively, wire the two ends to the sides of the square.)

[[File:Rebar for column pads diagram.png|thumb|600px|center]]

=====Laying out the locations for the forms on top of the foundation stone=====
Once the form and rebar assemblies are built and the foundation stone is in place, the string site plan lay-out must be set up for placing the forms properly over their (now invisible) foundations. If you set your hole locating strings far enough out that the excavation didn't disturb them, this will be simple. It will be even easier if you rolled up your strings before the hole excavation got done and saved them. (See comments below about what happened to us!)

''Collect equipment and supplies needed''
*Blueprint of site plan
*100' tape measure
*Pre-placed marking stakes around outside of foundation site.
*Rolled up pre-used string balls from foundation hole layout
''Steps for Laying out Column Pad Form locations.''
#Measure to check that all pre-placed marking stakes are properly positioned.
#If any are missing or misplaced, replace or reposition them as needed.
#Unroll and retie the strings to their corresponding stakes across the foundation site .

Here's what the layout over the stone should look like.
[[File:Column Pad form layout.png|thumb|600 px|center]]

We had a great plan for this - we would set our stakes out first to mark the hole edges at 4'x4', save the strings and move the stakes in by 6" to 3'x3' for the setting the pad forms.

However, when we tried it in real life - Well...
*We lost a lot of our stakes during the excavation.
*We found the holes tended to come out bigger than we had intended them to be.
*And once the stone was laid over the site, we couldn't see where the foundation holes were located!
We wound up remeasuring and resetting most of the stakes for laying out the pad site grid.
*We dug stone out of two of corners to find the edges of the foundation holes.
*We remeasured and reset corner marking stakes inside those edges.
*We retriangulated with the diagonals to assure the foundation square.
*And we remeasured and reset stakes along all the edges.

So we've rewritten the foundation lay-out plans as they are currently posted. In the current version, we set the stakes at the 3'x3' points to start with so they don't need to be moved. We also emphasized setting them firmly - and safely outside the excavation area.

=====Setting the column pad forms=====
''Collect equipment and supplies needed''
*Supplies
**24 Pre-built column pad forms
**120 form stakes (we used 2"x2"x18" wooden stakes)
*Equipment
**Heavy Hammer(s)
**4'spirit Level
**Water level
**tape measure
''Steps to place Column Pad forms''
#Choose one pad site along the East edge to be the reference pad. (The center of the East side works well.)
#Set a pre-built column pad form in place under the string lines with the inside of the forms under the strings.
#Drive two form stakes next to the outside of one side and one on each of the other three sides. They will need to sit deep enough that the tops of the stakes will be level with (or lower than) the top of the form.
#Level the form.
##Screw one of the stakes (on the side with two) to the side of the form so that the form sits 1/2" above the gravel level with the top of the stake level with (or lower than) the top of the form.
##Use the spirit level to set this side of the form level and screw it in position.
##Use the spirit level to set the opposite side of the form at the same level.
##Check the level on the other two sides and screw them in place.
#Use the water level to set another form in the East row of columns to be level with the reference pad.
#Repeat steps 2 through 5 to complete setting the forms in that row.
#Use the water level to set the level of the center form in the next row of columns (to the West) as a reference form for that row. It should be about 1-1/2" lower than the reference pad in the previous row of columns.
#Repeat steps 2 to 7 two more times.
#Repeat steps 2 to 5 again.

[[CEB Column Pads]] includes preparing rebar reinforcement assemblies, building concrete forms, and setting the forms in preparation for pouring concrete.

====Basic column building====
How to lay a brick: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lORIZ1shRIM

====Preparing the top of the column for tying on the roof====

===Reinforced Concrete Floor===

[[Forms and Concrete Work]] includes layouts for prefabricated rebar reinforcement assemblies specific to each configuration of slab specific to this workshop plan.

===Electrical Power Lines===
[[Electrical Power in the Workshop]]

===[[OSE Roof Instructions]]===
Our roof is modularly designed to take minimal time to put in place. Prebuilt wooden stringers are tied to the CEB columns with prebuilt assemblies put in place during the column construction. Then prebuilt 16'x16' frames are laid on top of them, glued and screwed to each other, and strapped to the stringers. Steel barn roofing attached to the roof frames provides protection from the weather. The finishing touch will be installation of clerestory framing and light panels to provide natural lighting to the interior of the workshop.

====Pre-building the Roof Frames====

==Future Instructions==

Forms and Concrete Work

Building CEB Columns

Enclosing the Workshop

CAD Room - Insulation, Raised Floor

Electrical Power in the Workshop

Hydraulic and Pneumatic Plumbing

Water Collection and Distribution

Storm Water Management

Loading Dock

Driveway/Parking Considerations

==Construction Plan Mindmap==

[[File:OSE Shop.png|800px|thumb|[[OSE Shop 2011 Mind Map]]]]

Full size here:[[http://opensourceecology.org/w/images/9/9f/OSE_Shop.png]]

Actual Mindmap file here (created with freemind) [[http://dogpawz.com/OSE/OSE%20Shop%20Planning.mm]]

[[Image:OSE_Shop_Planning.png]]

=Design Notes=
An overview of planning and implementation for 2011 here in northwestern Missouri can be followed on the [[Factor_e_Farm_Infrastructure_Buildout_2011|Factor E Farm]] link.

A 12 cell (16'x16') '''workshop''' for prototyping and production runs of open source ecology machines was projected. During the design phase, one row and one column of cells were expanded to sit on 21' centers. The 21'x21' cell is now designated as the CAD Room.

Steps taken to recycle and use a roof structure built as a prototype are shown on the [[OSE Shop 2011/OSE Mill Shed 2011|Mill Shed]] page.

Designs for a '''group habitation''' can be seen [[Hab Lab Design Gallery|here]].
The one we're working on in the Fall of 2011 is shown on [[Hybrid CEB-Straw Superinsulated Housing Plans|this page]].

See also this posted prototypical small [[CEB Living Unit]] idea.

See also [[Category:Hab Lab]]

==Latest Shop Design==
<html><iframe width="300" height="182" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed//_3rAbedHRU8" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe></html>

This shows the designs we are working with for building the shop and the hablab. Placement of other structures currently on the property are roughly shown by plain shapes.

Follow submissions from original workshop concept of A 12 cell (16'x16') '''workshop''' for prototyping and production runs of open source ecology machines to current project design below.

==Expand Shop==

* Moved both last rows of columns out 7.5 feet
* Very moderate cost for 500 additional square feet of space
* Simplifies roof plan.

==Storage/Equipment shed on south end==

Between the shop and the berm

==Equipment Room==

Build an equipment room in the storage shed.

This will keeps the noise of the compressor, generator, hydraulic pump, and such away from the shop. Will also provide storage for smaller parts. Piping and conduits carry power in various forms into the shop.

==Driveway==

Improve and expand the driveway to be smoother, wider, and double-access (pull-through) and have designated parking spots.

==Loading Dock==

Add a loading dock for easy access to truck bed level deliveries

==Heating==
Our climate will require heating areas designed for habitation and work during approximately 5-6 months of the year. Possible solutions might include

[[Space_Heating]]

===Masonry Stove===
http://dnr.mo.gov/pubs/pub781.pdf

==Hydraulic Power==
We may install a [[Stationary_Hydraulic_Power |central hydraulic system]]

=Technical Notes=

==Roof==

===Use 2x6 for roof boxes===

2x6's cost *half* of what 2x10's cost. We're spending almost $3000 on lumber. Can we save $1500?

This calculator externally:

[http://www.awc.org/calculators/span/calc/timbercalcstyle.asp?species=Southern+Pine&size=2x6&grade=No.+2&member=Rafters+%28Snow+Load%29&deflectionlimit=L%2F180&spacing=24&wet=No&incised=No&liveload=20&snowload=10&deadload=5&submit=Calculate+Maximum+Horizontal+Span#answer]

Indicates that 2x6's on 24" centers can be used for our roof box spans easily if our snow load is less than 10 pounds per square foot (about a foot of snow), and probably are even okay for 10 pounds per square foot.

Note, however, that [http://www.chiefbuildings.com/design/MBMA2006.pdf this table] lists DeKalb county design snow load at 20psf and [http://www.hpj.com/archives/2008/jan08/jan14/Dontunder-designroofsforare.cfm this article] from a Webster county extension agent recommends 25psf total load. See also [http://www.ce.udel.edu/courses/CIEG407/CIEG_407_Protected/Chapter%207%20Snow%20Loads.pdf ASCE snow load calculations] including ridge drift at fig 7-8.

It is my judgement that at least shifting to 2x8's to save cost would be worthwhile.
2 x 6's will work fine, the vast majority of structures use them.

===Roof Tie===

The use of Simpson Strong Tie model 2.5 can bind the roof panels to the rafter boards in such a way as to bind the roof to the rafters. We will use 100 of them, tying all of the edges and middles of the roof boxes to the rafters.

An early idea for tying roof to supporting CEB columns [[File:InterfaceAssembly.png|thumb|center]]

=== Stringers ===

(2x6 design for the stringers which support the roof boxes may need to be beefed up. See below.) The first stringer pair has been fabricated and will be load-tested soon.

First Stringer Prototype:

<html><iframe width="300" height="233" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed//K9rgJTTZN6I" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
</html>

==== strength analysis ====
Where columns are on 16x16ft centers, ~256 sq ft of roof is supported on each column, i.e 2560 to 6400 lb (based on assumed total load from 10 psf to 25 psf). This amount of load is transferred from roof boxes to columns through East-West stringers and North-South purlins. If stringers and purlins share the load equally, each 16-foot span must carry 1280 to 3200 lb. Worst case span/load is over CAD room where columns are on 21ft centers rather than 16ft.

Wood beam design theory [http://www2.nau.edu/~dsl/egr437/class/woodbeams/design/bending.html# here]. Typical design formulas will tell us to use deep beams for adequate ''stiffness'': otherwise the beam will bend "too much" (1/2" to 1" at midspan according to common design rules). Bending too much might damage the roof covering but is not a dangerous collapse condition. Three other important design criteria are
* ''bearing:'' will the wood crush where it bears on the support (this is a concern not only where the beams bear on the columns but also where boxes rest on purlins)
* ''shear:'' will the beam shear apart near its supporting pier
* ''bending strength:'' will the tension in the bottom edge of the beam tear it apart
Either of the last two failures will cause immediate structural collapse.

==== Truss option ====

A simple inverted kingpost truss using steel-bar tension members, added to the 2x6 stringer design, may work well.
[[File:TrussSketch.png]]

==== I-joist option ====
According to [http://opensourceecology.org/w/images/e/e7/IJoist.pdf this guide] I estimate a 12-inch deep PRI-50 IJoist would carry 3200 lb @ 1" deflection (L/180) across a 16ft span.

Very loose cost estimate: $2.00/linear foot. Approx 375 linear ft in 5 stringer sets + 280 linear feet in 16 purlin beams = $1310.

==Foundations==

The site is a heavy clay soil with a calculated bearing capability of between 1000 and 4000 pounds per square foot. The foundation design goal is to bring the building static load below 1000 PSF, so that the possible live load (gantry crane loaded, snow on the roof) even doubling the load will keep the foundation pressure beneath 2000 PSF.

[[File:OSE_Pillar_Foundation_Justification.png|thumb|left]]

[[File:OSE_Wall_Foundation_Justification.png|thumb|right]]

===Earth Compaction===

See [[Earth Compaction]]

[[Category:OSE Shop]]

==Components==
*Roof sections
*Roofing materials - Chris
*Stringers for workshop -

=Budgetary Considerations=

==Estimates==
[https://spreadsheets.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0ApN4BXK1pgnKdGpHMVBKcW5qZ285SGZTNWo0aDFjalE&hl=en_US Spreadsheet]

<html>
<iframe width='800' height='800' frameborder='0' src='https://spreadsheets4.google.com/spreadsheet/pub?key=0ApN4BXK1pgnKdGpHMVBKcW5qZ285SGZTNWo0aDFjalE&output=html&widget=true'></iframe>
</html>

*Rebar - [[OSE_Shop_2011_Rebar_Acquisition]]
*Bulldozing and excavation - $2-3k
*Cement trucks -

==Actual==

*4 [http://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-2401-22-12-Volt-Li-Ion-Compact/dp/B000WI9CIG/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1311881639&sr=1-1 Milwaukee cordless drills] – total dollars 407
*Roof metal - 136 panels, 17' long (3' widths) - 108 for workshop, 22 for material shed, and 6 extra + flashing for clerestory + screws + flashing closure – total dollars 5871
*2x6 lumber, 6.60 - total 396 pieces - total dollars 2802
*Glue, #25 star driver bits, 3" star bit screws, 2 glue guns, furring strips, 2 tie downs – total dollars 299
*Trailer rental for lumber – total dollars 47
*Gravel receipt for OSE Shop 2011 - 5000 sq ft of 6" deep plus 4x4x3' pillar bases - $2703 ([[Shop Gravel Receipt]])

==Tools and Equipment Purchases==
*4 Milwaukee cordless drills - total dollars 407
* #25 star driver bits
* 2 glue guns
* 2 tie downs
*Trailer rental for lumber – total dollars 47
*Wheel barrow, masonry hoe - total dollars 68

==Sources==
[[OSE_Shop_2011_Rebar_Acquisition]]
Amazon.com
Home Depot - St. Joseph
Menard's - St. Joseph

==Out-sourced Expenses==
*Bulldozing and excavation - 2-3k
*Cement trucks -

[[Category:FeF Infrastructure]]

[[Category:OSE_Shop_2011]]

Hab Lab

2011-10-16T15:12:34Z

Margaret Ida: /* Preparing the rebar reinforcement assemblies */

The need for all-weather housing to shelter year-round members of the community, located where summers can be unpleasantly hot and winters unpleasantly cold, can be met with superinsulated designs. Here we will examine some possible options and our progress in bring them into existence. Planning tools, instructions, modifications, etc. will be included.

The [[Hab Lab Design Gallery|Design Page]] is a good place to see what has been offered and to post any of your own great ideas. More ideas are great for everybody!

==Survey & Design==
The area on the property for the first group habitation was on a noticeable slope. OSE staff members worked with a home-made water level to take measurements over a 100' square area.

How to make a water level: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nAcT_1T25LM

Ideas submitted for this project are located on the [[Hab Lab Design Gallery]] page.

===Building Orientation===
Oops!
Some of our pads got set 3' South of their intended site. Here is an emergency redesign idea.
[[File:Emergency Remodel HabLab.png|thumb|800px|center]]

==Planning==

===Kitchen/Bath Water===

===Utility/Storage Area===

===Heating===
[[Space_Heating]]
====Source Material====
http://dnr.mo.gov/pubs/pub781.pdf

==Site Preparation==

The Hab Lab is designed to be supported by columns built of CEB (Compressed Earth Block)which are constructed on a reinforced concrete pad. Due to the slope of our site, we designed a lowered section which requires a low retaining wall. Included here are instructions for preparing the site with adequate footings.

Here is a picture with a preliminary excavation layout for the column pad sites and the retaining wall in the Hab Lab.
*When you are laying out the excavation site, be sure to add 5' in each direction for the excavator to work to.

[[File:HabLab Excavation Layout.png|thumb|800 px|center]]
This levels diagram is from our theoretical measurements - we actually wound up with a 2' drop, not a 2'8" drop. That will make only a minor difference in raising the building - changing the size of the retaining wall and removing one or two CEB's at the top of the lower columns to maintain the planned roof pitch.
[[File:Levels Diagram for Hab Lab Site.png|thumb|800 px|center]]

==Foundations & Column Slabs==

===Laying out the Hab Lab excavation site to be square===
''Collect equipment and supplies needed''
*Blueprint of site plan
*(2) 100’ Measuring tapes
*4 3-4’ stakes
*Hammer
*Bright spray paint
''Steps for Staking out the excavation site.''
#Choose a spot approximately 5 feet to the North and 5 feet to the West of the area to be excavated.
#Pound in a stake and spray paint the top foot or two of it.
#Measure due East a distance 10’ longer than the foundation width (total 67’).
#Place and paint another stake.
#Calculate a distance 10’ longer than the foundation length (total 62’).
#Calculate the diagonal measurement of the excavation site [Length(squared) x Width(squared) = Diagonal(squared)] (91'4").
#Measure due South from the Northwest stake the distance calculated in step 6.
#Set the second tape measure on the Northeast stake and measure the diagonal calculated in step 7 going Southwest.
#Set your third stake where the two measured lengths meet each other.
#Paint the stake.
#Measure due South from the Northeast stake the distance calculated in step 6.
#Set the second tape measure on the Northwest stake and measure the diagonal calculated in step 7 going Southeast.
#Set your fouth stake where the two measured lengths meet each other.
#Paint the stake.

*With the site leveled, the foundation holes for the column slabs must be laid out.
*After excavation, the stone fill for the foundation goes into the holes.
*At the same time, the 6" stone floor foundation is spread.

===Concrete forms and rebar reinforcing assemblies===
These can be built well ahead of need whenever volunteers are available.
*You could set up an assembly line effect to do them all at once with several people working together.
*An individual might do one unit at a time.
*An individual might do all the wood cutting at one time, another do all the rebar cutting at another time, another do all the rebar bending at another time.
*A couple of people might work together to get some wooden forms assembled once the pieces are cut, another time, a couple of people might work together to get some rebar assemblies welded.

The following step-by-step instructions are provided for building the forms and the reinforcing rebar assemblies.

[[How to bend rebar]]

[[https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=14oCxZUjs09wGuvaL4QTAII6hRxQpy20TKv7skH3INRWAVlXqtgdrh0D2ggtl&hl=en Assembly sheet for column pad forms]]

[[https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=1_hf2n-l9rCiEss45ZC8ogtMpeQki9fCoYIFdkD5x3lCOwjGh7Gknr-POJrNB&hl=en Rebar plan for column footings]]

===Laying out the locations for the forms on top of the foundation stone===
Once the form and rebar assemblies are built and the foundation stone is in place, the string site plan lay-out must be set up for placing the forms properly over their (now invisible) foundations. If you set your hole locating strings far enough out that the excavation didn't disturb them, this will be simple. It will be even easier if you rolled up your strings before the hole excavation got done and saved them. (See comments below!)

''Collect equipment and supplies needed''
*Blueprint of site plan
*100' tape measure
*Pre-placed marking stakes around outside of foundation site.
*Rolled up pre-used string balls from foundation hole layout
''Steps for Laying out Column Pad Form locations.''
#Measure to check that all pre-placed marking stakes are properly positioned.
#If any are missing or misplaced, replace or reposition them as needed.
#Unroll and retie the strings to their corresponding stakes across the foundation site .

Here's what the layout over the stone should look like.
[[File:HabLab Column Pad Form Layout.png|thumb|600 px|center]]

-Note-
We had a great plan for this - we would set our stakes out first to mark the hole edges at 4'x4', save the strings and move the stakes in by 6" to 3'x3' for the setting the pad forms.

However, when we tried it in real life - Well...
*We lost a lot of our stakes during the excavation.
*We found the holes tended to come out bigger than we had intended them to be.
*And once the stone was laid over the site, we couldn't see where the foundation holes were located!
We wound up remeasuring and resetting most of the stakes for laying out the pad site grid.
*We dug stone out of two of corners to find the edges of the foundation holes.
*We remeasured and reset corner marking stakes inside those edges.
*We retriangulated with the diagonals to assure the foundation square.
*And we remeasured and reset stakes along all the edges.

So we've rewritten the foundation lay-out plans as they are currently posted. In the current version, we set the stakes at the 3'x3' points to start with so they don't need to be moved. We also emphasized setting them firmly - and safely outside the excavation area.

-Later Note-
More sad experience - gained while setting the floor and wall forms and found our firmly set concrete East column pads were sitting 3' further South than they should have been!

What happened -
*The outlining strings for the site were set properly and square - good.
*However, while doing all of the fixing above, we got tired and thought up a short cut. We were short on stakes and we needed to mark both the hablab and the workshop sites for form placement (our 40 forms would require us to locate and put in some 40 stakes) We could place our forms easily enough in line with the strings with only one corner marked couldn't we? (That would require placing half as many stakes!)
*We started at the NorthWest corner and measured 16' East along the North line and staked that for a line. Then another 16' East we set another stake.
*Then we went back and did the same from the NorthWest corner to the South. - and from the SouthWest corner to the East.
*Finally we went down to the lower level and marked the East line of the site ''starting at the South end of the line''. - And we ran our strings.
*Later, we were tired and losing daylight when we set the forms in place along the lines on the Hab Lab site.
I suppose this short cut could have worked if we had checked more carfully:
*Rechecking the placement measurements is an obvious one.
*Standing back and looking for parallel lines is another obvious one.
*Looking for a cause when it was difficult to align the squarely built pads with the crossed strings would have been another solution.

So this is the layout we are actually working with now!
[[File:Oops HabLab Column Pad Form Layout.png|thumb|600px|center]]

We decided that an emergency floor plan change we came up with should compensate for this without having to redo most of the column pads. As we run into more complications, we'll post on them!

===Setting the column pad forms===
''Collect equipment and supplies needed''
*Supplies
**16 Pre-built column pad forms
**80 form stakes (we used 2"x2"x18" wooden stakes)
*Equipment
**Heavy Hammer(s)
**4'spirit Level
**Water level
**tape measure
''Steps to place Column Pad forms''
#Use with the center pad site on the upper level as the reference pad.
#Set a pre-built column pad form in place under the string lines with the inside of the forms under the strings.
#Drive two form stakes next to the outside of one side and one on each of the other three sides. They will need to sit deep enough that the tops of the stakes will be level with (or lower than) the top of the form.
#Level the form.
##Screw one of the stakes (on the side with two) to the side of the form so that the form sits 1/2" above the gravel level. Be sure that the top of the stake is level with (or lower than) the top of the form.
##Use the spirit level to set this side of the form level and screw it in position.
##Use the spirit level to set the opposite side of the form at the same level.
##Check the level on the other two sides and screw them in place.
#Use the water level to set the first level on each of the other pads on the upper level.
#Repeat the remainder of the leveling steps for each form.
#Use the water level to set the level of the center form in the lower level at 24" lower than the upper level pads.
#Complete the leveling steps for this form.
#Use the center form on the lower level for a reference form to set and level the remaining lower level column pad forms.

[[File:Setting Column Pad Forms Diagram.png|thumb|600 px|center]]

===Preparing Column Pad Forms for Reinforced Concrete===
Collect equipment and supplies needed
*Supplies
**16 Pre-built column pad rebar assemblies
**64 rebar chairs
*Equipment
**Rake(s)
**shovel
**tape measure
#Use a rake and shovel to remove about 2" of stone from the inside of the form. (until is 6" deep)
#Pack removed stone around outside of forms to create a fully enclosed 6" deep form.
#Use one prebuilt column pad rebar assembly for each column pad site.
#Center the rebar assembly with 3” gap between assembly and form wall on every side.
#Set rebar chairs under corners of prebuilt column pad rebar assemblies.-Put a stone or some gravel under the chairs if needed to center the rebar so it will sit at about the middle of the finished slab (3" off the floor of the form).

[[File:Preparing Column Pad Sites for Concrete Pouring.png|thumb|600 px|center]]

==Concrete Work==
We are preparing to do the big concrete pour. Using the FreeMind mind map model, this is the node that outlines the dependencies so we can be ready for that. Following sections include instructions for accomplishing them.
[[File:Dependencies for Getting Floors Poured.png|thumb|800px|center]]
Here is the planning layout for the concrete - which we are planning to do in one great big pour. We'll let you know how it goes!
[[File:HabLab Concrete Forms Layout.png|800px|center]]

===Insulated Outside Wall Support Slabs===
We are planning to put reinforced concrete the full 3' width of the Column Support Pads all the way around the outside of the building. They will be 3-1/2" (2x4 lumber size) deep and will support the two CEB walls that enclose the hay bale insulation. Rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.

====Preparing the rebar reinforcement assemblies====
[[How to bend rebar]]

Rebar Assembly for 13’ Outside Wall pads (make 11 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’6” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 6’4” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 12’6” by 2’6” dimensions.
#Measure and cut (1) 20’ piece of #4 rebar to 12’7” in length.
#Center the 12’7” piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld it into place.
[[File:Rebar for outside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

Rebar Assembly for 9’6” Outside Wall pads (make 2 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 4’7” from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’6” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 4’7” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 9’ by 2’6” dimensions.
#Measure and cut (1) 20’ piece of #4 rebar to 9’1” in length.
#Center the 9’1” piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld it into place.
[[File:Rebar for 9.5' outside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

Rebar Assembly for 7' Outside Wall pads (make 2 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 3’4” from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’6” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 3’4” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 6’6” by 2’6” dimensions.
#Measure and cut (1) 20’ piece of #4 rebar to 6'7" in length.
#Center the 6'7" piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld it into place.
[[File:Rebar for 7' outside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

====Preparing the concrete forms====
Our pouring plan requires these forms relating to the outside wall construction. For those wall pads that are part of our interior pads, additional forms are in other sections. If you are not pouring large interior pads, you will need to adjust the number of interior forms.

Exterior Forms for 13' Wall slabs. (make 10 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(2) 2"x4"x7' pine studs
*(1) piece of scrap lumber,
*(4) 3" screws
*Driver
''Steps to do:''
#Start two screws into the flat side of each end of the piece of scrap lumber.
#Butt the two 7' boards end to end
#Lay the piece of scrap lumber over the seam butt joint.
#Be sure the narrow sides of the boards are lined up evenly with each other.
#Drive the screws in completely to hold the boards in line.

Interior Forms for 13' Wall slabs. (make 5 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(2) 2"x4"x7' pine studs
*Measuring tape
*Pencil
*Saw
*(4) 3" screws
*Driver
''Steps to do:''
#Measure, mark, and cut one board to be 6' long.
#Start two screws into the flat side of each end of the 1' piece of scrap lumber.
#Butt the 6' piece with the other 7' board end to end
#Lay the piece of scrap lumber over the seam butt joint.
#Be sure the narrow sides of the boards are lined up evenly with each other.
#Drive the screws in completely to hold the boards in line.

Forms for Wall slabs on split-level section

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(6) 2"x4"x7' pine studs
*(4) 2"x4"x10' pine studs
*Measuring tape
*Pencil
*Saw
''Steps to do:''
#Measure, mark, and cut (2) 7' boards to be 6' long.
#Measure, mark, and cut (2) 10' boards to be 9'6" long.
#You will use the other boards uncut.

[[File:Exterior Wall Form Boards.png|thumb|600px|center]]

====Setting the forms====

===Narrow Wall Support Slabs===
We will support and stabilize the interior CEB walls with a 12" wide x 3-1/2" deep concrete slab. Rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.

====Preparing Rebar reinforcement assemblies====
Rebar Assembly for all 12” interior wall slabs

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(10) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 3’4” from one end.
#Bend 180⁰ the rebar with a 3” radius.
#Measure and mark so another 180⁰ with a 3” radius will produce 6’6” long assemblies.
#Cut the extra rebar (about 7’) off, leaving enough to tack weld each assembly together.

#Measure and mark (4) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 4’4” from the end.
#Bend 180⁰ with a 3” radius.
#Measure and mark so another 180⁰ with a 3” radius will produce 8’6” long assemblies.
#Cut the extra rebar off, leaving enough to tack weld each assembly together.

#Measure and mark (4) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” from the end.
#Bend 180⁰ with a 3” radius.
#Measure and mark so another 180⁰ with a 3” radius will produce 12’6” long assemblies.
#Use scrap cuttings (about 7’ long) to bridge the gap for each of these assemblies.
[[File:Rebar for 1' inside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

====Preparing the Concrete Forms====
These 12" wide slabs will provide a firm foundation on which to build our interior CEB room-dividing walls. Mostly they use the same sizes of forms you used for the outside walls. If you are pouring in small stages, you won't have build more forms because you can reuse the ones from the outside wall slabs. If you are going to pour all the concrete at once, you will need 7 more of the 13' inside form assemblies, 4 more uncut 7' boards, 2 more 7' boards cut to 6' lengths, 6 more boards cut to 9'6", and two boards cut to 9' in length.
Instructions for preparing all of these boards are found above - in the [[#Insulated Outside Wall Support Slabs/Preparing the Concrete Forms|Outside Wall Slabs]] section.

====Setting the Forms====

===Kitchen and Bath Areas===
The Kitchen and Bath Floor Areas both have a potential for receiving noticeable amounts of water. We consider it advisable to pave them both with concrete and include a central drain. Rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.
====Preparing the Rebar Assemblies====
Rebar Assembly for 16’x13’ slabs (make 2 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (4) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” from the end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Cut the long ends to 7’10” long.
#Overlap the short ends of two L-shaped pieces and measure to make a U shaped assembly with 12’6” between the legs.
#Make two of these assemblies.
#Overlap the legs of the U-shaped assemblies to make a rectangle measuring 15’6” x 12’6”
#Measure and cut (5) pieces of #4 rebar to 15’7” long.
#Measure and cut (7) pieces of #4 rebar to 12’7” long.
#Space and position the cut pieces into a 24” grid across the rectangle.
[[File:Rebar for between big slabs.png|thumb|600px|center]]

#Weld them into place.
[[File:Rebar for 16x13 slab.png|thumb|600px|center]]

There is one more assembly to go into this section between the two big ones. It is a modification of the exterior wall slab reinforcements.

Rebar Assembly for Interior 13’x3’ section of big Slab

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(2) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” #from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’ between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 6’4” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 12’6” by 2’ dimensions.

====Preparing the Concrete forms====
Because we are pouring this all at once, we decided to eliminate some complicated form work by including the equipment area and one room in this slab. This will be a big pour of concrete. It requires about 5 cubic yards of concrete. If you have plenty of time and are working in small batches, you can save over a yard of concrete by building the interior wall forms and pouring only wall-support pads - as shown on the layout.

The large slabs are laid between column pads, using 13' interior form assemblies. If you are pouring all at once, you will need two more of these assemblies, one more board cut to 9'6", and a piece of scrap about 3' long to complete the form work for this area. This, of course, assumes that you already have the exterior forms for the exterior wall slabs prepared. Instructions for preparing all of these are above in the [[#Insulated Outside Wall Support Slabs/Preparing the Concrete Forms|Outside Wall Slabs]]
section.
====Setting the Forms====

===Retaining Wall for Lower Level===
Ideas for this wall have been through several iterations. At present (Oct. 10th), we are planning to lay a 6" footer, 18" wide and 62' long. On top of that, we plan to put a 12" thick wall of bitumen-protected CEB. For the concrete footer, rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.
====Preparing the Rebar Assembly====
Rebar Assembly for Retaining wall footer

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(9) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Scrap #4 rebar to make (1) 6’ pieces and (1) 1’1” piece
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 8’ from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 12” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut (1) 6’ and (1) 1’1” piece of #4 rebar.
#Overlap and weld (1) 20’ length of rebar to each leg.
#Measure and weld the two longer legs together so the resulting assembly is 61’6” long.
#Weld the 6’ piece of rebar between the ends of the two shorter legs so that side is 61’6” long, too.
#Weld (3) 20’ pieces of #4 rebar into an approximately 60’ length of rebar.
#Center the 60’ piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld one end at the center of one end of the rectangle.
#Position the 1’1” piece of rebar across the rectangle to support the free end of the 60’ assembly.
#Weld the short piece to the three long ones.
[[File:Rebar Assembly for Retaining wall.png|thumb|600px|center]]
====Preparing the Concrete Form====
This is a really long form - 62 feet. You don't want to put it together ahead of time and try to carry it anywhere! What you ''do'' want to do is make sure you have all the pieces you will need cut and reserved against the time you will be setting the forms up.

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(8) 2"x6"x16' boards
*(6) Pieces of 2x4 or 2x6 scrap for splicing.
*Measuring tape
*Pencil
*Saw
''Steps to do''
#Measure and mark 18" from the end of (2) 2x6x16' boards
#Cut the two 18" pieces and mark them "form ends".
#Set aside the 6 16' boards, the 14'6" boards, the form ends, and all the scrap pieces in a reserve pile.

====Setting the Concrete Form====

==CEB Columns==

[[http://ww2.unhabitat.org/programmes/housingpolicy/Images/PDF.gif|UN CEB PDF]]

==CEB Arches==

[[http://ww2.unhabitat.org/programmes/housingpolicy/documents/Vault.pdf|UN Vaults PDF]]

[[http://www.amazon.com/Concrete-Hardness-Hammer-HT-225A-Portable/dp/B0049DDJCK/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1317915942&sr=8-6|Hardness Test Hammer]] for quality assurance

==CEB Floors==

[[http://www.velacreations.com/cebfloors.html|CEB Floor Instructions]]

==Insulated Roof==

# 16 11-member 2x6x16' frames
# a layer of tyvek
# a layer of lathe, mounted diagonally about 18" apart
# a layer of hay bales surrounded and around 2x12 spacers
# 16 11-member 2x4x16' frames
# agricultural roof panel on top and sides

Frames are built with one 16' beam on each end of 9 other 16' beams laid on 24" centers. These roof frames can be built quite quickly at any time labor is available, preferably ahead of time so that they can be installed as soon as the columns are ready to be covered.

==Super Insulated Walls==

2.5 foot thick wall.

4x6x12 bricks laid on the 12x4" side in standard wall layup, two walls outside surfaces 2.5' apart.

With air space left on either side, bales are stacked in the center of the wall, creating super insulation between the interior and exterior.

==Heating the HabLab==

I propose a [[http://www.heatkit.com Heatkit]] masonry furnace kit, surrounded by CEB

Hab Lab

2011-10-16T15:11:21Z

Margaret Ida: /* Concrete forms and rebar reinforcing assemblies */

The need for all-weather housing to shelter year-round members of the community, located where summers can be unpleasantly hot and winters unpleasantly cold, can be met with superinsulated designs. Here we will examine some possible options and our progress in bring them into existence. Planning tools, instructions, modifications, etc. will be included.

The [[Hab Lab Design Gallery|Design Page]] is a good place to see what has been offered and to post any of your own great ideas. More ideas are great for everybody!

==Survey & Design==
The area on the property for the first group habitation was on a noticeable slope. OSE staff members worked with a home-made water level to take measurements over a 100' square area.

How to make a water level: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nAcT_1T25LM

Ideas submitted for this project are located on the [[Hab Lab Design Gallery]] page.

===Building Orientation===
Oops!
Some of our pads got set 3' South of their intended site. Here is an emergency redesign idea.
[[File:Emergency Remodel HabLab.png|thumb|800px|center]]

==Planning==

===Kitchen/Bath Water===

===Utility/Storage Area===

===Heating===
[[Space_Heating]]
====Source Material====
http://dnr.mo.gov/pubs/pub781.pdf

==Site Preparation==

The Hab Lab is designed to be supported by columns built of CEB (Compressed Earth Block)which are constructed on a reinforced concrete pad. Due to the slope of our site, we designed a lowered section which requires a low retaining wall. Included here are instructions for preparing the site with adequate footings.

Here is a picture with a preliminary excavation layout for the column pad sites and the retaining wall in the Hab Lab.
*When you are laying out the excavation site, be sure to add 5' in each direction for the excavator to work to.

[[File:HabLab Excavation Layout.png|thumb|800 px|center]]
This levels diagram is from our theoretical measurements - we actually wound up with a 2' drop, not a 2'8" drop. That will make only a minor difference in raising the building - changing the size of the retaining wall and removing one or two CEB's at the top of the lower columns to maintain the planned roof pitch.
[[File:Levels Diagram for Hab Lab Site.png|thumb|800 px|center]]

==Foundations & Column Slabs==

===Laying out the Hab Lab excavation site to be square===
''Collect equipment and supplies needed''
*Blueprint of site plan
*(2) 100’ Measuring tapes
*4 3-4’ stakes
*Hammer
*Bright spray paint
''Steps for Staking out the excavation site.''
#Choose a spot approximately 5 feet to the North and 5 feet to the West of the area to be excavated.
#Pound in a stake and spray paint the top foot or two of it.
#Measure due East a distance 10’ longer than the foundation width (total 67’).
#Place and paint another stake.
#Calculate a distance 10’ longer than the foundation length (total 62’).
#Calculate the diagonal measurement of the excavation site [Length(squared) x Width(squared) = Diagonal(squared)] (91'4").
#Measure due South from the Northwest stake the distance calculated in step 6.
#Set the second tape measure on the Northeast stake and measure the diagonal calculated in step 7 going Southwest.
#Set your third stake where the two measured lengths meet each other.
#Paint the stake.
#Measure due South from the Northeast stake the distance calculated in step 6.
#Set the second tape measure on the Northwest stake and measure the diagonal calculated in step 7 going Southeast.
#Set your fouth stake where the two measured lengths meet each other.
#Paint the stake.

*With the site leveled, the foundation holes for the column slabs must be laid out.
*After excavation, the stone fill for the foundation goes into the holes.
*At the same time, the 6" stone floor foundation is spread.

===Concrete forms and rebar reinforcing assemblies===
These can be built well ahead of need whenever volunteers are available.
*You could set up an assembly line effect to do them all at once with several people working together.
*An individual might do one unit at a time.
*An individual might do all the wood cutting at one time, another do all the rebar cutting at another time, another do all the rebar bending at another time.
*A couple of people might work together to get some wooden forms assembled once the pieces are cut, another time, a couple of people might work together to get some rebar assemblies welded.

The following step-by-step instructions are provided for building the forms and the reinforcing rebar assemblies.

[[How to bend rebar]]

[[https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=14oCxZUjs09wGuvaL4QTAII6hRxQpy20TKv7skH3INRWAVlXqtgdrh0D2ggtl&hl=en Assembly sheet for column pad forms]]

[[https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=1_hf2n-l9rCiEss45ZC8ogtMpeQki9fCoYIFdkD5x3lCOwjGh7Gknr-POJrNB&hl=en Rebar plan for column footings]]

===Laying out the locations for the forms on top of the foundation stone===
Once the form and rebar assemblies are built and the foundation stone is in place, the string site plan lay-out must be set up for placing the forms properly over their (now invisible) foundations. If you set your hole locating strings far enough out that the excavation didn't disturb them, this will be simple. It will be even easier if you rolled up your strings before the hole excavation got done and saved them. (See comments below!)

''Collect equipment and supplies needed''
*Blueprint of site plan
*100' tape measure
*Pre-placed marking stakes around outside of foundation site.
*Rolled up pre-used string balls from foundation hole layout
''Steps for Laying out Column Pad Form locations.''
#Measure to check that all pre-placed marking stakes are properly positioned.
#If any are missing or misplaced, replace or reposition them as needed.
#Unroll and retie the strings to their corresponding stakes across the foundation site .

Here's what the layout over the stone should look like.
[[File:HabLab Column Pad Form Layout.png|thumb|600 px|center]]

-Note-
We had a great plan for this - we would set our stakes out first to mark the hole edges at 4'x4', save the strings and move the stakes in by 6" to 3'x3' for the setting the pad forms.

However, when we tried it in real life - Well...
*We lost a lot of our stakes during the excavation.
*We found the holes tended to come out bigger than we had intended them to be.
*And once the stone was laid over the site, we couldn't see where the foundation holes were located!
We wound up remeasuring and resetting most of the stakes for laying out the pad site grid.
*We dug stone out of two of corners to find the edges of the foundation holes.
*We remeasured and reset corner marking stakes inside those edges.
*We retriangulated with the diagonals to assure the foundation square.
*And we remeasured and reset stakes along all the edges.

So we've rewritten the foundation lay-out plans as they are currently posted. In the current version, we set the stakes at the 3'x3' points to start with so they don't need to be moved. We also emphasized setting them firmly - and safely outside the excavation area.

-Later Note-
More sad experience - gained while setting the floor and wall forms and found our firmly set concrete East column pads were sitting 3' further South than they should have been!

What happened -
*The outlining strings for the site were set properly and square - good.
*However, while doing all of the fixing above, we got tired and thought up a short cut. We were short on stakes and we needed to mark both the hablab and the workshop sites for form placement (our 40 forms would require us to locate and put in some 40 stakes) We could place our forms easily enough in line with the strings with only one corner marked couldn't we? (That would require placing half as many stakes!)
*We started at the NorthWest corner and measured 16' East along the North line and staked that for a line. Then another 16' East we set another stake.
*Then we went back and did the same from the NorthWest corner to the South. - and from the SouthWest corner to the East.
*Finally we went down to the lower level and marked the East line of the site ''starting at the South end of the line''. - And we ran our strings.
*Later, we were tired and losing daylight when we set the forms in place along the lines on the Hab Lab site.
I suppose this short cut could have worked if we had checked more carfully:
*Rechecking the placement measurements is an obvious one.
*Standing back and looking for parallel lines is another obvious one.
*Looking for a cause when it was difficult to align the squarely built pads with the crossed strings would have been another solution.

So this is the layout we are actually working with now!
[[File:Oops HabLab Column Pad Form Layout.png|thumb|600px|center]]

We decided that an emergency floor plan change we came up with should compensate for this without having to redo most of the column pads. As we run into more complications, we'll post on them!

===Setting the column pad forms===
''Collect equipment and supplies needed''
*Supplies
**16 Pre-built column pad forms
**80 form stakes (we used 2"x2"x18" wooden stakes)
*Equipment
**Heavy Hammer(s)
**4'spirit Level
**Water level
**tape measure
''Steps to place Column Pad forms''
#Use with the center pad site on the upper level as the reference pad.
#Set a pre-built column pad form in place under the string lines with the inside of the forms under the strings.
#Drive two form stakes next to the outside of one side and one on each of the other three sides. They will need to sit deep enough that the tops of the stakes will be level with (or lower than) the top of the form.
#Level the form.
##Screw one of the stakes (on the side with two) to the side of the form so that the form sits 1/2" above the gravel level. Be sure that the top of the stake is level with (or lower than) the top of the form.
##Use the spirit level to set this side of the form level and screw it in position.
##Use the spirit level to set the opposite side of the form at the same level.
##Check the level on the other two sides and screw them in place.
#Use the water level to set the first level on each of the other pads on the upper level.
#Repeat the remainder of the leveling steps for each form.
#Use the water level to set the level of the center form in the lower level at 24" lower than the upper level pads.
#Complete the leveling steps for this form.
#Use the center form on the lower level for a reference form to set and level the remaining lower level column pad forms.

[[File:Setting Column Pad Forms Diagram.png|thumb|600 px|center]]

===Preparing Column Pad Forms for Reinforced Concrete===
Collect equipment and supplies needed
*Supplies
**16 Pre-built column pad rebar assemblies
**64 rebar chairs
*Equipment
**Rake(s)
**shovel
**tape measure
#Use a rake and shovel to remove about 2" of stone from the inside of the form. (until is 6" deep)
#Pack removed stone around outside of forms to create a fully enclosed 6" deep form.
#Use one prebuilt column pad rebar assembly for each column pad site.
#Center the rebar assembly with 3” gap between assembly and form wall on every side.
#Set rebar chairs under corners of prebuilt column pad rebar assemblies.-Put a stone or some gravel under the chairs if needed to center the rebar so it will sit at about the middle of the finished slab (3" off the floor of the form).

[[File:Preparing Column Pad Sites for Concrete Pouring.png|thumb|600 px|center]]

==Concrete Work==
We are preparing to do the big concrete pour. Using the FreeMind mind map model, this is the node that outlines the dependencies so we can be ready for that. Following sections include instructions for accomplishing them.
[[File:Dependencies for Getting Floors Poured.png|thumb|800px|center]]
Here is the planning layout for the concrete - which we are planning to do in one great big pour. We'll let you know how it goes!
[[File:HabLab Concrete Forms Layout.png|800px|center]]

===Insulated Outside Wall Support Slabs===
We are planning to put reinforced concrete the full 3' width of the Column Support Pads all the way around the outside of the building. They will be 3-1/2" (2x4 lumber size) deep and will support the two CEB walls that enclose the hay bale insulation. Rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.

====Preparing the rebar reinforcement assemblies====
Rebar Assembly for 13’ Outside Wall pads (make 11 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’6” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 6’4” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 12’6” by 2’6” dimensions.
#Measure and cut (1) 20’ piece of #4 rebar to 12’7” in length.
#Center the 12’7” piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld it into place.
[[File:Rebar for outside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

Rebar Assembly for 9’6” Outside Wall pads (make 2 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 4’7” from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’6” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 4’7” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 9’ by 2’6” dimensions.
#Measure and cut (1) 20’ piece of #4 rebar to 9’1” in length.
#Center the 9’1” piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld it into place.
[[File:Rebar for 9.5' outside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

Rebar Assembly for 7' Outside Wall pads (make 2 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 3’4” from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’6” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 3’4” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 6’6” by 2’6” dimensions.
#Measure and cut (1) 20’ piece of #4 rebar to 6'7" in length.
#Center the 6'7" piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld it into place.
[[File:Rebar for 7' outside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

====Preparing the concrete forms====
Our pouring plan requires these forms relating to the outside wall construction. For those wall pads that are part of our interior pads, additional forms are in other sections. If you are not pouring large interior pads, you will need to adjust the number of interior forms.

Exterior Forms for 13' Wall slabs. (make 10 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(2) 2"x4"x7' pine studs
*(1) piece of scrap lumber,
*(4) 3" screws
*Driver
''Steps to do:''
#Start two screws into the flat side of each end of the piece of scrap lumber.
#Butt the two 7' boards end to end
#Lay the piece of scrap lumber over the seam butt joint.
#Be sure the narrow sides of the boards are lined up evenly with each other.
#Drive the screws in completely to hold the boards in line.

Interior Forms for 13' Wall slabs. (make 5 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(2) 2"x4"x7' pine studs
*Measuring tape
*Pencil
*Saw
*(4) 3" screws
*Driver
''Steps to do:''
#Measure, mark, and cut one board to be 6' long.
#Start two screws into the flat side of each end of the 1' piece of scrap lumber.
#Butt the 6' piece with the other 7' board end to end
#Lay the piece of scrap lumber over the seam butt joint.
#Be sure the narrow sides of the boards are lined up evenly with each other.
#Drive the screws in completely to hold the boards in line.

Forms for Wall slabs on split-level section

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(6) 2"x4"x7' pine studs
*(4) 2"x4"x10' pine studs
*Measuring tape
*Pencil
*Saw
''Steps to do:''
#Measure, mark, and cut (2) 7' boards to be 6' long.
#Measure, mark, and cut (2) 10' boards to be 9'6" long.
#You will use the other boards uncut.

[[File:Exterior Wall Form Boards.png|thumb|600px|center]]

====Setting the forms====

===Narrow Wall Support Slabs===
We will support and stabilize the interior CEB walls with a 12" wide x 3-1/2" deep concrete slab. Rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.

====Preparing Rebar reinforcement assemblies====
Rebar Assembly for all 12” interior wall slabs

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(10) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 3’4” from one end.
#Bend 180⁰ the rebar with a 3” radius.
#Measure and mark so another 180⁰ with a 3” radius will produce 6’6” long assemblies.
#Cut the extra rebar (about 7’) off, leaving enough to tack weld each assembly together.

#Measure and mark (4) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 4’4” from the end.
#Bend 180⁰ with a 3” radius.
#Measure and mark so another 180⁰ with a 3” radius will produce 8’6” long assemblies.
#Cut the extra rebar off, leaving enough to tack weld each assembly together.

#Measure and mark (4) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” from the end.
#Bend 180⁰ with a 3” radius.
#Measure and mark so another 180⁰ with a 3” radius will produce 12’6” long assemblies.
#Use scrap cuttings (about 7’ long) to bridge the gap for each of these assemblies.
[[File:Rebar for 1' inside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

====Preparing the Concrete Forms====
These 12" wide slabs will provide a firm foundation on which to build our interior CEB room-dividing walls. Mostly they use the same sizes of forms you used for the outside walls. If you are pouring in small stages, you won't have build more forms because you can reuse the ones from the outside wall slabs. If you are going to pour all the concrete at once, you will need 7 more of the 13' inside form assemblies, 4 more uncut 7' boards, 2 more 7' boards cut to 6' lengths, 6 more boards cut to 9'6", and two boards cut to 9' in length.
Instructions for preparing all of these boards are found above - in the [[#Insulated Outside Wall Support Slabs/Preparing the Concrete Forms|Outside Wall Slabs]] section.

====Setting the Forms====

===Kitchen and Bath Areas===
The Kitchen and Bath Floor Areas both have a potential for receiving noticeable amounts of water. We consider it advisable to pave them both with concrete and include a central drain. Rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.
====Preparing the Rebar Assemblies====
Rebar Assembly for 16’x13’ slabs (make 2 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (4) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” from the end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Cut the long ends to 7’10” long.
#Overlap the short ends of two L-shaped pieces and measure to make a U shaped assembly with 12’6” between the legs.
#Make two of these assemblies.
#Overlap the legs of the U-shaped assemblies to make a rectangle measuring 15’6” x 12’6”
#Measure and cut (5) pieces of #4 rebar to 15’7” long.
#Measure and cut (7) pieces of #4 rebar to 12’7” long.
#Space and position the cut pieces into a 24” grid across the rectangle.
[[File:Rebar for between big slabs.png|thumb|600px|center]]

#Weld them into place.
[[File:Rebar for 16x13 slab.png|thumb|600px|center]]

There is one more assembly to go into this section between the two big ones. It is a modification of the exterior wall slab reinforcements.

Rebar Assembly for Interior 13’x3’ section of big Slab

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(2) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” #from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’ between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 6’4” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 12’6” by 2’ dimensions.

====Preparing the Concrete forms====
Because we are pouring this all at once, we decided to eliminate some complicated form work by including the equipment area and one room in this slab. This will be a big pour of concrete. It requires about 5 cubic yards of concrete. If you have plenty of time and are working in small batches, you can save over a yard of concrete by building the interior wall forms and pouring only wall-support pads - as shown on the layout.

The large slabs are laid between column pads, using 13' interior form assemblies. If you are pouring all at once, you will need two more of these assemblies, one more board cut to 9'6", and a piece of scrap about 3' long to complete the form work for this area. This, of course, assumes that you already have the exterior forms for the exterior wall slabs prepared. Instructions for preparing all of these are above in the [[#Insulated Outside Wall Support Slabs/Preparing the Concrete Forms|Outside Wall Slabs]]
section.
====Setting the Forms====

===Retaining Wall for Lower Level===
Ideas for this wall have been through several iterations. At present (Oct. 10th), we are planning to lay a 6" footer, 18" wide and 62' long. On top of that, we plan to put a 12" thick wall of bitumen-protected CEB. For the concrete footer, rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.
====Preparing the Rebar Assembly====
Rebar Assembly for Retaining wall footer

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(9) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Scrap #4 rebar to make (1) 6’ pieces and (1) 1’1” piece
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 8’ from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 12” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut (1) 6’ and (1) 1’1” piece of #4 rebar.
#Overlap and weld (1) 20’ length of rebar to each leg.
#Measure and weld the two longer legs together so the resulting assembly is 61’6” long.
#Weld the 6’ piece of rebar between the ends of the two shorter legs so that side is 61’6” long, too.
#Weld (3) 20’ pieces of #4 rebar into an approximately 60’ length of rebar.
#Center the 60’ piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld one end at the center of one end of the rectangle.
#Position the 1’1” piece of rebar across the rectangle to support the free end of the 60’ assembly.
#Weld the short piece to the three long ones.
[[File:Rebar Assembly for Retaining wall.png|thumb|600px|center]]
====Preparing the Concrete Form====
This is a really long form - 62 feet. You don't want to put it together ahead of time and try to carry it anywhere! What you ''do'' want to do is make sure you have all the pieces you will need cut and reserved against the time you will be setting the forms up.

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(8) 2"x6"x16' boards
*(6) Pieces of 2x4 or 2x6 scrap for splicing.
*Measuring tape
*Pencil
*Saw
''Steps to do''
#Measure and mark 18" from the end of (2) 2x6x16' boards
#Cut the two 18" pieces and mark them "form ends".
#Set aside the 6 16' boards, the 14'6" boards, the form ends, and all the scrap pieces in a reserve pile.

====Setting the Concrete Form====

==CEB Columns==

[[http://ww2.unhabitat.org/programmes/housingpolicy/Images/PDF.gif|UN CEB PDF]]

==CEB Arches==

[[http://ww2.unhabitat.org/programmes/housingpolicy/documents/Vault.pdf|UN Vaults PDF]]

[[http://www.amazon.com/Concrete-Hardness-Hammer-HT-225A-Portable/dp/B0049DDJCK/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1317915942&sr=8-6|Hardness Test Hammer]] for quality assurance

==CEB Floors==

[[http://www.velacreations.com/cebfloors.html|CEB Floor Instructions]]

==Insulated Roof==

# 16 11-member 2x6x16' frames
# a layer of tyvek
# a layer of lathe, mounted diagonally about 18" apart
# a layer of hay bales surrounded and around 2x12 spacers
# 16 11-member 2x4x16' frames
# agricultural roof panel on top and sides

Frames are built with one 16' beam on each end of 9 other 16' beams laid on 24" centers. These roof frames can be built quite quickly at any time labor is available, preferably ahead of time so that they can be installed as soon as the columns are ready to be covered.

==Super Insulated Walls==

2.5 foot thick wall.

4x6x12 bricks laid on the 12x4" side in standard wall layup, two walls outside surfaces 2.5' apart.

With air space left on either side, bales are stacked in the center of the wall, creating super insulation between the interior and exterior.

==Heating the HabLab==

I propose a [[http://www.heatkit.com Heatkit]] masonry furnace kit, surrounded by CEB

How to bend rebar

2011-10-16T15:08:24Z

Margaret Ida: Created page with "When you prepare rebar for concrete reinforcement, it seems to be important to have a bend on the corners (as opposed to the end of a bar). To make this project modular, we desig..."

When you prepare rebar for concrete reinforcement, it seems to be important to have a bend on the corners (as opposed to the end of a bar). To make this project modular, we designed rebar assemblies that can be built ahead of time and slipped into place once the forms are placed. This does require some bending and welding with fairly close tolerances, since we want the rebar to sit only about 3" from the edges of the slab.
Thanks to Jershonda, we have this guide on how we made that happen.

''Gather supplies and tools''
*1/2" rebar stock
*Securely attached bench vise.
*long 1/2" (or greater) metal pipe
*measuring tape
*marker
*spec. sheet
''Steps to do''
#Measure and mark the rebar at the desired length and at 2” less than the desired length.
#Set the rebar in your vise with the mark for the shorter length at the edge of the vise jaws.
#Set the end of your leverage pipe at the mark for the desired length.
#Exert pressure on the lever to bend the rebar. Keep the pressure on until you get to an angle of about 120⁰ to 130⁰. This is 30⁰ to 40⁰ beyond the desired 90⁰ bend, but the metal will spring back very close to the 90⁰ you are looking for.
#With the #4 (½”) rebar we are using, a 2” radius bend loses about ½” of length. However, the diameter of the rebar compensates for that, giving the desired dimension fairly precisely.

Hab Lab

2011-10-15T13:12:16Z

Margaret Ida: /* Laying out the locations for the forms on top of the foundation stone */

The need for all-weather housing to shelter year-round members of the community, located where summers can be unpleasantly hot and winters unpleasantly cold, can be met with superinsulated designs. Here we will examine some possible options and our progress in bring them into existence. Planning tools, instructions, modifications, etc. will be included.

The [[Hab Lab Design Gallery|Design Page]] is a good place to see what has been offered and to post any of your own great ideas. More ideas are great for everybody!

==Survey & Design==
The area on the property for the first group habitation was on a noticeable slope. OSE staff members worked with a home-made water level to take measurements over a 100' square area.

How to make a water level: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nAcT_1T25LM

Ideas submitted for this project are located on the [[Hab Lab Design Gallery]] page.

===Building Orientation===
Oops!
Some of our pads got set 3' South of their intended site. Here is an emergency redesign idea.
[[File:Emergency Remodel HabLab.png|thumb|800px|center]]

==Planning==

===Kitchen/Bath Water===

===Utility/Storage Area===

===Heating===
[[Space_Heating]]
====Source Material====
http://dnr.mo.gov/pubs/pub781.pdf

==Site Preparation==

The Hab Lab is designed to be supported by columns built of CEB (Compressed Earth Block)which are constructed on a reinforced concrete pad. Due to the slope of our site, we designed a lowered section which requires a low retaining wall. Included here are instructions for preparing the site with adequate footings.

Here is a picture with a preliminary excavation layout for the column pad sites and the retaining wall in the Hab Lab.
*When you are laying out the excavation site, be sure to add 5' in each direction for the excavator to work to.

[[File:HabLab Excavation Layout.png|thumb|800 px|center]]
This levels diagram is from our theoretical measurements - we actually wound up with a 2' drop, not a 2'8" drop. That will make only a minor difference in raising the building - changing the size of the retaining wall and removing one or two CEB's at the top of the lower columns to maintain the planned roof pitch.
[[File:Levels Diagram for Hab Lab Site.png|thumb|800 px|center]]

==Foundations & Column Slabs==

===Laying out the Hab Lab excavation site to be square===
''Collect equipment and supplies needed''
*Blueprint of site plan
*(2) 100’ Measuring tapes
*4 3-4’ stakes
*Hammer
*Bright spray paint
''Steps for Staking out the excavation site.''
#Choose a spot approximately 5 feet to the North and 5 feet to the West of the area to be excavated.
#Pound in a stake and spray paint the top foot or two of it.
#Measure due East a distance 10’ longer than the foundation width (total 67’).
#Place and paint another stake.
#Calculate a distance 10’ longer than the foundation length (total 62’).
#Calculate the diagonal measurement of the excavation site [Length(squared) x Width(squared) = Diagonal(squared)] (91'4").
#Measure due South from the Northwest stake the distance calculated in step 6.
#Set the second tape measure on the Northeast stake and measure the diagonal calculated in step 7 going Southwest.
#Set your third stake where the two measured lengths meet each other.
#Paint the stake.
#Measure due South from the Northeast stake the distance calculated in step 6.
#Set the second tape measure on the Northwest stake and measure the diagonal calculated in step 7 going Southeast.
#Set your fouth stake where the two measured lengths meet each other.
#Paint the stake.

*With the site leveled, the foundation holes for the column slabs must be laid out.
*After excavation, the stone fill for the foundation goes into the holes.
*At the same time, the 6" stone floor foundation is spread.

===Concrete forms and rebar reinforcing assemblies===
These can be built well ahead of need whenever volunteers are available.
*You could set up an assembly line effect to do them all at once with several people working together.
*An individual might do one unit at a time.
*An individual might do all the wood cutting at one time, another do all the rebar cutting at another time, another do all the rebar bending at another time.
*A couple of people might work together to get some wooden forms assembled once the pieces are cut, another time, a couple of people might work together to get some rebar assemblies welded.

The following step-by-step instructions are provided for building the forms and the reinforcing rebar assemblies.

[[https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=14oCxZUjs09wGuvaL4QTAII6hRxQpy20TKv7skH3INRWAVlXqtgdrh0D2ggtl&hl=en Assembly sheet for column pad forms]]

[[https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=1_hf2n-l9rCiEss45ZC8ogtMpeQki9fCoYIFdkD5x3lCOwjGh7Gknr-POJrNB&hl=en Rebar plan for column footings]]

===Laying out the locations for the forms on top of the foundation stone===
Once the form and rebar assemblies are built and the foundation stone is in place, the string site plan lay-out must be set up for placing the forms properly over their (now invisible) foundations. If you set your hole locating strings far enough out that the excavation didn't disturb them, this will be simple. It will be even easier if you rolled up your strings before the hole excavation got done and saved them. (See comments below!)

''Collect equipment and supplies needed''
*Blueprint of site plan
*100' tape measure
*Pre-placed marking stakes around outside of foundation site.
*Rolled up pre-used string balls from foundation hole layout
''Steps for Laying out Column Pad Form locations.''
#Measure to check that all pre-placed marking stakes are properly positioned.
#If any are missing or misplaced, replace or reposition them as needed.
#Unroll and retie the strings to their corresponding stakes across the foundation site .

Here's what the layout over the stone should look like.
[[File:HabLab Column Pad Form Layout.png|thumb|600 px|center]]

-Note-
We had a great plan for this - we would set our stakes out first to mark the hole edges at 4'x4', save the strings and move the stakes in by 6" to 3'x3' for the setting the pad forms.

However, when we tried it in real life - Well...
*We lost a lot of our stakes during the excavation.
*We found the holes tended to come out bigger than we had intended them to be.
*And once the stone was laid over the site, we couldn't see where the foundation holes were located!
We wound up remeasuring and resetting most of the stakes for laying out the pad site grid.
*We dug stone out of two of corners to find the edges of the foundation holes.
*We remeasured and reset corner marking stakes inside those edges.
*We retriangulated with the diagonals to assure the foundation square.
*And we remeasured and reset stakes along all the edges.

So we've rewritten the foundation lay-out plans as they are currently posted. In the current version, we set the stakes at the 3'x3' points to start with so they don't need to be moved. We also emphasized setting them firmly - and safely outside the excavation area.

-Later Note-
More sad experience - gained while setting the floor and wall forms and found our firmly set concrete East column pads were sitting 3' further South than they should have been!

What happened -
*The outlining strings for the site were set properly and square - good.
*However, while doing all of the fixing above, we got tired and thought up a short cut. We were short on stakes and we needed to mark both the hablab and the workshop sites for form placement (our 40 forms would require us to locate and put in some 40 stakes) We could place our forms easily enough in line with the strings with only one corner marked couldn't we? (That would require placing half as many stakes!)
*We started at the NorthWest corner and measured 16' East along the North line and staked that for a line. Then another 16' East we set another stake.
*Then we went back and did the same from the NorthWest corner to the South. - and from the SouthWest corner to the East.
*Finally we went down to the lower level and marked the East line of the site ''starting at the South end of the line''. - And we ran our strings.
*Later, we were tired and losing daylight when we set the forms in place along the lines on the Hab Lab site.
I suppose this short cut could have worked if we had checked more carfully:
*Rechecking the placement measurements is an obvious one.
*Standing back and looking for parallel lines is another obvious one.
*Looking for a cause when it was difficult to align the squarely built pads with the crossed strings would have been another solution.

So this is the layout we are actually working with now!
[[File:Oops HabLab Column Pad Form Layout.png|thumb|600px|center]]

We decided that an emergency floor plan change we came up with should compensate for this without having to redo most of the column pads. As we run into more complications, we'll post on them!

===Setting the column pad forms===
''Collect equipment and supplies needed''
*Supplies
**16 Pre-built column pad forms
**80 form stakes (we used 2"x2"x18" wooden stakes)
*Equipment
**Heavy Hammer(s)
**4'spirit Level
**Water level
**tape measure
''Steps to place Column Pad forms''
#Use with the center pad site on the upper level as the reference pad.
#Set a pre-built column pad form in place under the string lines with the inside of the forms under the strings.
#Drive two form stakes next to the outside of one side and one on each of the other three sides. They will need to sit deep enough that the tops of the stakes will be level with (or lower than) the top of the form.
#Level the form.
##Screw one of the stakes (on the side with two) to the side of the form so that the form sits 1/2" above the gravel level. Be sure that the top of the stake is level with (or lower than) the top of the form.
##Use the spirit level to set this side of the form level and screw it in position.
##Use the spirit level to set the opposite side of the form at the same level.
##Check the level on the other two sides and screw them in place.
#Use the water level to set the first level on each of the other pads on the upper level.
#Repeat the remainder of the leveling steps for each form.
#Use the water level to set the level of the center form in the lower level at 24" lower than the upper level pads.
#Complete the leveling steps for this form.
#Use the center form on the lower level for a reference form to set and level the remaining lower level column pad forms.

[[File:Setting Column Pad Forms Diagram.png|thumb|600 px|center]]

===Preparing Column Pad Forms for Reinforced Concrete===
Collect equipment and supplies needed
*Supplies
**16 Pre-built column pad rebar assemblies
**64 rebar chairs
*Equipment
**Rake(s)
**shovel
**tape measure
#Use a rake and shovel to remove about 2" of stone from the inside of the form. (until is 6" deep)
#Pack removed stone around outside of forms to create a fully enclosed 6" deep form.
#Use one prebuilt column pad rebar assembly for each column pad site.
#Center the rebar assembly with 3” gap between assembly and form wall on every side.
#Set rebar chairs under corners of prebuilt column pad rebar assemblies.-Put a stone or some gravel under the chairs if needed to center the rebar so it will sit at about the middle of the finished slab (3" off the floor of the form).

[[File:Preparing Column Pad Sites for Concrete Pouring.png|thumb|600 px|center]]

==Concrete Work==
We are preparing to do the big concrete pour. Using the FreeMind mind map model, this is the node that outlines the dependencies so we can be ready for that. Following sections include instructions for accomplishing them.
[[File:Dependencies for Getting Floors Poured.png|thumb|800px|center]]
Here is the planning layout for the concrete - which we are planning to do in one great big pour. We'll let you know how it goes!
[[File:HabLab Concrete Forms Layout.png|800px|center]]

===Insulated Outside Wall Support Slabs===
We are planning to put reinforced concrete the full 3' width of the Column Support Pads all the way around the outside of the building. They will be 3-1/2" (2x4 lumber size) deep and will support the two CEB walls that enclose the hay bale insulation. Rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.

====Preparing the rebar reinforcement assemblies====
Rebar Assembly for 13’ Outside Wall pads (make 11 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’6” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 6’4” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 12’6” by 2’6” dimensions.
#Measure and cut (1) 20’ piece of #4 rebar to 12’7” in length.
#Center the 12’7” piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld it into place.
[[File:Rebar for outside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

Rebar Assembly for 9’6” Outside Wall pads (make 2 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 4’7” from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’6” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 4’7” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 9’ by 2’6” dimensions.
#Measure and cut (1) 20’ piece of #4 rebar to 9’1” in length.
#Center the 9’1” piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld it into place.
[[File:Rebar for 9.5' outside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

Rebar Assembly for 7' Outside Wall pads (make 2 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 3’4” from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’6” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 3’4” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 6’6” by 2’6” dimensions.
#Measure and cut (1) 20’ piece of #4 rebar to 6'7" in length.
#Center the 6'7" piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld it into place.
[[File:Rebar for 7' outside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

====Preparing the concrete forms====
Our pouring plan requires these forms relating to the outside wall construction. For those wall pads that are part of our interior pads, additional forms are in other sections. If you are not pouring large interior pads, you will need to adjust the number of interior forms.

Exterior Forms for 13' Wall slabs. (make 10 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(2) 2"x4"x7' pine studs
*(1) piece of scrap lumber,
*(4) 3" screws
*Driver
''Steps to do:''
#Start two screws into the flat side of each end of the piece of scrap lumber.
#Butt the two 7' boards end to end
#Lay the piece of scrap lumber over the seam butt joint.
#Be sure the narrow sides of the boards are lined up evenly with each other.
#Drive the screws in completely to hold the boards in line.

Interior Forms for 13' Wall slabs. (make 5 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(2) 2"x4"x7' pine studs
*Measuring tape
*Pencil
*Saw
*(4) 3" screws
*Driver
''Steps to do:''
#Measure, mark, and cut one board to be 6' long.
#Start two screws into the flat side of each end of the 1' piece of scrap lumber.
#Butt the 6' piece with the other 7' board end to end
#Lay the piece of scrap lumber over the seam butt joint.
#Be sure the narrow sides of the boards are lined up evenly with each other.
#Drive the screws in completely to hold the boards in line.

Forms for Wall slabs on split-level section

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(6) 2"x4"x7' pine studs
*(4) 2"x4"x10' pine studs
*Measuring tape
*Pencil
*Saw
''Steps to do:''
#Measure, mark, and cut (2) 7' boards to be 6' long.
#Measure, mark, and cut (2) 10' boards to be 9'6" long.
#You will use the other boards uncut.

[[File:Exterior Wall Form Boards.png|thumb|600px|center]]

====Setting the forms====

===Narrow Wall Support Slabs===
We will support and stabilize the interior CEB walls with a 12" wide x 3-1/2" deep concrete slab. Rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.

====Preparing Rebar reinforcement assemblies====
Rebar Assembly for all 12” interior wall slabs

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(10) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 3’4” from one end.
#Bend 180⁰ the rebar with a 3” radius.
#Measure and mark so another 180⁰ with a 3” radius will produce 6’6” long assemblies.
#Cut the extra rebar (about 7’) off, leaving enough to tack weld each assembly together.

#Measure and mark (4) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 4’4” from the end.
#Bend 180⁰ with a 3” radius.
#Measure and mark so another 180⁰ with a 3” radius will produce 8’6” long assemblies.
#Cut the extra rebar off, leaving enough to tack weld each assembly together.

#Measure and mark (4) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” from the end.
#Bend 180⁰ with a 3” radius.
#Measure and mark so another 180⁰ with a 3” radius will produce 12’6” long assemblies.
#Use scrap cuttings (about 7’ long) to bridge the gap for each of these assemblies.
[[File:Rebar for 1' inside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

====Preparing the Concrete Forms====
These 12" wide slabs will provide a firm foundation on which to build our interior CEB room-dividing walls. Mostly they use the same sizes of forms you used for the outside walls. If you are pouring in small stages, you won't have build more forms because you can reuse the ones from the outside wall slabs. If you are going to pour all the concrete at once, you will need 7 more of the 13' inside form assemblies, 4 more uncut 7' boards, 2 more 7' boards cut to 6' lengths, 6 more boards cut to 9'6", and two boards cut to 9' in length.
Instructions for preparing all of these boards are found above - in the [[#Insulated Outside Wall Support Slabs/Preparing the Concrete Forms|Outside Wall Slabs]] section.

====Setting the Forms====

===Kitchen and Bath Areas===
The Kitchen and Bath Floor Areas both have a potential for receiving noticeable amounts of water. We consider it advisable to pave them both with concrete and include a central drain. Rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.
====Preparing the Rebar Assemblies====
Rebar Assembly for 16’x13’ slabs (make 2 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (4) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” from the end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Cut the long ends to 7’10” long.
#Overlap the short ends of two L-shaped pieces and measure to make a U shaped assembly with 12’6” between the legs.
#Make two of these assemblies.
#Overlap the legs of the U-shaped assemblies to make a rectangle measuring 15’6” x 12’6”
#Measure and cut (5) pieces of #4 rebar to 15’7” long.
#Measure and cut (7) pieces of #4 rebar to 12’7” long.
#Space and position the cut pieces into a 24” grid across the rectangle.
[[File:Rebar for between big slabs.png|thumb|600px|center]]

#Weld them into place.
[[File:Rebar for 16x13 slab.png|thumb|600px|center]]

There is one more assembly to go into this section between the two big ones. It is a modification of the exterior wall slab reinforcements.

Rebar Assembly for Interior 13’x3’ section of big Slab

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(2) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” #from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’ between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 6’4” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 12’6” by 2’ dimensions.

====Preparing the Concrete forms====
Because we are pouring this all at once, we decided to eliminate some complicated form work by including the equipment area and one room in this slab. This will be a big pour of concrete. It requires about 5 cubic yards of concrete. If you have plenty of time and are working in small batches, you can save over a yard of concrete by building the interior wall forms and pouring only wall-support pads - as shown on the layout.

The large slabs are laid between column pads, using 13' interior form assemblies. If you are pouring all at once, you will need two more of these assemblies, one more board cut to 9'6", and a piece of scrap about 3' long to complete the form work for this area. This, of course, assumes that you already have the exterior forms for the exterior wall slabs prepared. Instructions for preparing all of these are above in the [[#Insulated Outside Wall Support Slabs/Preparing the Concrete Forms|Outside Wall Slabs]]
section.
====Setting the Forms====

===Retaining Wall for Lower Level===
Ideas for this wall have been through several iterations. At present (Oct. 10th), we are planning to lay a 6" footer, 18" wide and 62' long. On top of that, we plan to put a 12" thick wall of bitumen-protected CEB. For the concrete footer, rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.
====Preparing the Rebar Assembly====
Rebar Assembly for Retaining wall footer

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(9) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Scrap #4 rebar to make (1) 6’ pieces and (1) 1’1” piece
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 8’ from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 12” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut (1) 6’ and (1) 1’1” piece of #4 rebar.
#Overlap and weld (1) 20’ length of rebar to each leg.
#Measure and weld the two longer legs together so the resulting assembly is 61’6” long.
#Weld the 6’ piece of rebar between the ends of the two shorter legs so that side is 61’6” long, too.
#Weld (3) 20’ pieces of #4 rebar into an approximately 60’ length of rebar.
#Center the 60’ piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld one end at the center of one end of the rectangle.
#Position the 1’1” piece of rebar across the rectangle to support the free end of the 60’ assembly.
#Weld the short piece to the three long ones.
[[File:Rebar Assembly for Retaining wall.png|thumb|600px|center]]
====Preparing the Concrete Form====
This is a really long form - 62 feet. You don't want to put it together ahead of time and try to carry it anywhere! What you ''do'' want to do is make sure you have all the pieces you will need cut and reserved against the time you will be setting the forms up.

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(8) 2"x6"x16' boards
*(6) Pieces of 2x4 or 2x6 scrap for splicing.
*Measuring tape
*Pencil
*Saw
''Steps to do''
#Measure and mark 18" from the end of (2) 2x6x16' boards
#Cut the two 18" pieces and mark them "form ends".
#Set aside the 6 16' boards, the 14'6" boards, the form ends, and all the scrap pieces in a reserve pile.

====Setting the Concrete Form====

==CEB Columns==

[[http://ww2.unhabitat.org/programmes/housingpolicy/Images/PDF.gif|UN CEB PDF]]

==CEB Arches==

[[http://ww2.unhabitat.org/programmes/housingpolicy/documents/Vault.pdf|UN Vaults PDF]]

[[http://www.amazon.com/Concrete-Hardness-Hammer-HT-225A-Portable/dp/B0049DDJCK/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1317915942&sr=8-6|Hardness Test Hammer]] for quality assurance

==CEB Floors==

[[http://www.velacreations.com/cebfloors.html|CEB Floor Instructions]]

==Insulated Roof==

# 16 11-member 2x6x16' frames
# a layer of tyvek
# a layer of lathe, mounted diagonally about 18" apart
# a layer of hay bales surrounded and around 2x12 spacers
# 16 11-member 2x4x16' frames
# agricultural roof panel on top and sides

Frames are built with one 16' beam on each end of 9 other 16' beams laid on 24" centers. These roof frames can be built quite quickly at any time labor is available, preferably ahead of time so that they can be installed as soon as the columns are ready to be covered.

==Super Insulated Walls==

2.5 foot thick wall.

4x6x12 bricks laid on the 12x4" side in standard wall layup, two walls outside surfaces 2.5' apart.

With air space left on either side, bales are stacked in the center of the wall, creating super insulation between the interior and exterior.

==Heating the HabLab==

I propose a [[http://www.heatkit.com Heatkit]] masonry furnace kit, surrounded by CEB

File:Oops HabLab Column Pad Form Layout.png

2011-10-15T13:09:38Z

Margaret Ida: uploaded a new version of "File:Oops HabLab Column Pad Form Layout.png"

File:Oops HabLab Column Pad Form Layout.png

2011-10-15T13:07:22Z

Margaret Ida:

Hab Lab

2011-10-15T13:06:30Z

Margaret Ida: /* Laying out the locations for the forms on top of the foundation stone */

The need for all-weather housing to shelter year-round members of the community, located where summers can be unpleasantly hot and winters unpleasantly cold, can be met with superinsulated designs. Here we will examine some possible options and our progress in bring them into existence. Planning tools, instructions, modifications, etc. will be included.

The [[Hab Lab Design Gallery|Design Page]] is a good place to see what has been offered and to post any of your own great ideas. More ideas are great for everybody!

==Survey & Design==
The area on the property for the first group habitation was on a noticeable slope. OSE staff members worked with a home-made water level to take measurements over a 100' square area.

How to make a water level: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nAcT_1T25LM

Ideas submitted for this project are located on the [[Hab Lab Design Gallery]] page.

===Building Orientation===
Oops!
Some of our pads got set 3' South of their intended site. Here is an emergency redesign idea.
[[File:Emergency Remodel HabLab.png|thumb|800px|center]]

==Planning==

===Kitchen/Bath Water===

===Utility/Storage Area===

===Heating===
[[Space_Heating]]
====Source Material====
http://dnr.mo.gov/pubs/pub781.pdf

==Site Preparation==

The Hab Lab is designed to be supported by columns built of CEB (Compressed Earth Block)which are constructed on a reinforced concrete pad. Due to the slope of our site, we designed a lowered section which requires a low retaining wall. Included here are instructions for preparing the site with adequate footings.

Here is a picture with a preliminary excavation layout for the column pad sites and the retaining wall in the Hab Lab.
*When you are laying out the excavation site, be sure to add 5' in each direction for the excavator to work to.

[[File:HabLab Excavation Layout.png|thumb|800 px|center]]
This levels diagram is from our theoretical measurements - we actually wound up with a 2' drop, not a 2'8" drop. That will make only a minor difference in raising the building - changing the size of the retaining wall and removing one or two CEB's at the top of the lower columns to maintain the planned roof pitch.
[[File:Levels Diagram for Hab Lab Site.png|thumb|800 px|center]]

==Foundations & Column Slabs==

===Laying out the Hab Lab excavation site to be square===
''Collect equipment and supplies needed''
*Blueprint of site plan
*(2) 100’ Measuring tapes
*4 3-4’ stakes
*Hammer
*Bright spray paint
''Steps for Staking out the excavation site.''
#Choose a spot approximately 5 feet to the North and 5 feet to the West of the area to be excavated.
#Pound in a stake and spray paint the top foot or two of it.
#Measure due East a distance 10’ longer than the foundation width (total 67’).
#Place and paint another stake.
#Calculate a distance 10’ longer than the foundation length (total 62’).
#Calculate the diagonal measurement of the excavation site [Length(squared) x Width(squared) = Diagonal(squared)] (91'4").
#Measure due South from the Northwest stake the distance calculated in step 6.
#Set the second tape measure on the Northeast stake and measure the diagonal calculated in step 7 going Southwest.
#Set your third stake where the two measured lengths meet each other.
#Paint the stake.
#Measure due South from the Northeast stake the distance calculated in step 6.
#Set the second tape measure on the Northwest stake and measure the diagonal calculated in step 7 going Southeast.
#Set your fouth stake where the two measured lengths meet each other.
#Paint the stake.

*With the site leveled, the foundation holes for the column slabs must be laid out.
*After excavation, the stone fill for the foundation goes into the holes.
*At the same time, the 6" stone floor foundation is spread.

===Concrete forms and rebar reinforcing assemblies===
These can be built well ahead of need whenever volunteers are available.
*You could set up an assembly line effect to do them all at once with several people working together.
*An individual might do one unit at a time.
*An individual might do all the wood cutting at one time, another do all the rebar cutting at another time, another do all the rebar bending at another time.
*A couple of people might work together to get some wooden forms assembled once the pieces are cut, another time, a couple of people might work together to get some rebar assemblies welded.

The following step-by-step instructions are provided for building the forms and the reinforcing rebar assemblies.

[[https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=14oCxZUjs09wGuvaL4QTAII6hRxQpy20TKv7skH3INRWAVlXqtgdrh0D2ggtl&hl=en Assembly sheet for column pad forms]]

[[https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=1_hf2n-l9rCiEss45ZC8ogtMpeQki9fCoYIFdkD5x3lCOwjGh7Gknr-POJrNB&hl=en Rebar plan for column footings]]

===Laying out the locations for the forms on top of the foundation stone===
Once the form and rebar assemblies are built and the foundation stone is in place, the string site plan lay-out must be set up for placing the forms properly over their (now invisible) foundations. If you set your hole locating strings far enough out that the excavation didn't disturb them, this will be simple. It will be even easier if you rolled up your strings before the hole excavation got done and saved them. (See comments below!)

''Collect equipment and supplies needed''
*Blueprint of site plan
*100' tape measure
*Pre-placed marking stakes around outside of foundation site.
*Rolled up pre-used string balls from foundation hole layout
''Steps for Laying out Column Pad Form locations.''
#Measure to check that all pre-placed marking stakes are properly positioned.
#If any are missing or misplaced, replace or reposition them as needed.
#Unroll and retie the strings to their corresponding stakes across the foundation site .

Here's what the layout over the stone should look like.
[[File:HabLab Column Pad Form Layout.png|thumb|600 px|center]]

-Note-
We had a great plan for this - we would set our stakes out first to mark the hole edges at 4'x4', save the strings and move the stakes in by 6" to 3'x3' for the setting the pad forms.

However, when we tried it in real life - Well...
*We lost a lot of our stakes during the excavation.
*We found the holes tended to come out bigger than we had intended them to be.
*And once the stone was laid over the site, we couldn't see where the foundation holes were located!
We wound up remeasuring and resetting most of the stakes for laying out the pad site grid.
*We dug stone out of two of corners to find the edges of the foundation holes.
*We remeasured and reset corner marking stakes inside those edges.
*We retriangulated with the diagonals to assure the foundation square.
*And we remeasured and reset stakes along all the edges.

So we've rewritten the foundation lay-out plans as they are currently posted. In the current version, we set the stakes at the 3'x3' points to start with so they don't need to be moved. We also emphasized setting them firmly - and safely outside the excavation area.

-Later Note-
More sad experience - gained while setting the floor and wall forms and found our firmly set concrete East column pads were sitting 3' further South than they should have been!

What happened -
*The outlining strings for the site were set properly and square - good.
*However, while doing all of the fixing above, we got tired and thought up a short cut. We were short on stakes and we needed to mark both the hablab and the workshop sites for form placement (our 40 forms would require us to locate and put in some 40 stakes) We could place our forms easily enough in line with the strings with only one corner marked couldn't we? (That would require placing half as many stakes!)
*We started at the NorthWest corner and measured 16' East along the North line and staked that for a line. Then another 16' East we set another stake.
*Then we went back and did the same from the NorthWest corner to the South. - and from the SouthWest corner to the East.
*Finally we went down to the lower level and marked the East line of the site ''starting at the South end of the line''. - And we ran our strings.
*Later, we were tired and losing daylight when we set the forms in place along the lines on the Hab Lab site.
I suppose this short cut could have worked if we had checked more carfully:
*Rechecking the placement measurements is an obvious one.
*Standing back and looking for parallel lines is another obvious one.
*Looking for a cause when it was difficult to align the squarely built pads with the crossed strings would have been another solution.

So this is the layout we are actually working with now!

We think the emergency floor plan change we came up with will compensate for this without having to redo most of the column pads. As we run into more complications, we'll post on them!

===Setting the column pad forms===
''Collect equipment and supplies needed''
*Supplies
**16 Pre-built column pad forms
**80 form stakes (we used 2"x2"x18" wooden stakes)
*Equipment
**Heavy Hammer(s)
**4'spirit Level
**Water level
**tape measure
''Steps to place Column Pad forms''
#Use with the center pad site on the upper level as the reference pad.
#Set a pre-built column pad form in place under the string lines with the inside of the forms under the strings.
#Drive two form stakes next to the outside of one side and one on each of the other three sides. They will need to sit deep enough that the tops of the stakes will be level with (or lower than) the top of the form.
#Level the form.
##Screw one of the stakes (on the side with two) to the side of the form so that the form sits 1/2" above the gravel level. Be sure that the top of the stake is level with (or lower than) the top of the form.
##Use the spirit level to set this side of the form level and screw it in position.
##Use the spirit level to set the opposite side of the form at the same level.
##Check the level on the other two sides and screw them in place.
#Use the water level to set the first level on each of the other pads on the upper level.
#Repeat the remainder of the leveling steps for each form.
#Use the water level to set the level of the center form in the lower level at 24" lower than the upper level pads.
#Complete the leveling steps for this form.
#Use the center form on the lower level for a reference form to set and level the remaining lower level column pad forms.

[[File:Setting Column Pad Forms Diagram.png|thumb|600 px|center]]

===Preparing Column Pad Forms for Reinforced Concrete===
Collect equipment and supplies needed
*Supplies
**16 Pre-built column pad rebar assemblies
**64 rebar chairs
*Equipment
**Rake(s)
**shovel
**tape measure
#Use a rake and shovel to remove about 2" of stone from the inside of the form. (until is 6" deep)
#Pack removed stone around outside of forms to create a fully enclosed 6" deep form.
#Use one prebuilt column pad rebar assembly for each column pad site.
#Center the rebar assembly with 3” gap between assembly and form wall on every side.
#Set rebar chairs under corners of prebuilt column pad rebar assemblies.-Put a stone or some gravel under the chairs if needed to center the rebar so it will sit at about the middle of the finished slab (3" off the floor of the form).

[[File:Preparing Column Pad Sites for Concrete Pouring.png|thumb|600 px|center]]

==Concrete Work==
We are preparing to do the big concrete pour. Using the FreeMind mind map model, this is the node that outlines the dependencies so we can be ready for that. Following sections include instructions for accomplishing them.
[[File:Dependencies for Getting Floors Poured.png|thumb|800px|center]]
Here is the planning layout for the concrete - which we are planning to do in one great big pour. We'll let you know how it goes!
[[File:HabLab Concrete Forms Layout.png|800px|center]]

===Insulated Outside Wall Support Slabs===
We are planning to put reinforced concrete the full 3' width of the Column Support Pads all the way around the outside of the building. They will be 3-1/2" (2x4 lumber size) deep and will support the two CEB walls that enclose the hay bale insulation. Rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.

====Preparing the rebar reinforcement assemblies====
Rebar Assembly for 13’ Outside Wall pads (make 11 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’6” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 6’4” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 12’6” by 2’6” dimensions.
#Measure and cut (1) 20’ piece of #4 rebar to 12’7” in length.
#Center the 12’7” piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld it into place.
[[File:Rebar for outside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

Rebar Assembly for 9’6” Outside Wall pads (make 2 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 4’7” from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’6” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 4’7” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 9’ by 2’6” dimensions.
#Measure and cut (1) 20’ piece of #4 rebar to 9’1” in length.
#Center the 9’1” piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld it into place.
[[File:Rebar for 9.5' outside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

Rebar Assembly for 7' Outside Wall pads (make 2 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 3’4” from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’6” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 3’4” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 6’6” by 2’6” dimensions.
#Measure and cut (1) 20’ piece of #4 rebar to 6'7" in length.
#Center the 6'7" piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld it into place.
[[File:Rebar for 7' outside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

====Preparing the concrete forms====
Our pouring plan requires these forms relating to the outside wall construction. For those wall pads that are part of our interior pads, additional forms are in other sections. If you are not pouring large interior pads, you will need to adjust the number of interior forms.

Exterior Forms for 13' Wall slabs. (make 10 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(2) 2"x4"x7' pine studs
*(1) piece of scrap lumber,
*(4) 3" screws
*Driver
''Steps to do:''
#Start two screws into the flat side of each end of the piece of scrap lumber.
#Butt the two 7' boards end to end
#Lay the piece of scrap lumber over the seam butt joint.
#Be sure the narrow sides of the boards are lined up evenly with each other.
#Drive the screws in completely to hold the boards in line.

Interior Forms for 13' Wall slabs. (make 5 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(2) 2"x4"x7' pine studs
*Measuring tape
*Pencil
*Saw
*(4) 3" screws
*Driver
''Steps to do:''
#Measure, mark, and cut one board to be 6' long.
#Start two screws into the flat side of each end of the 1' piece of scrap lumber.
#Butt the 6' piece with the other 7' board end to end
#Lay the piece of scrap lumber over the seam butt joint.
#Be sure the narrow sides of the boards are lined up evenly with each other.
#Drive the screws in completely to hold the boards in line.

Forms for Wall slabs on split-level section

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(6) 2"x4"x7' pine studs
*(4) 2"x4"x10' pine studs
*Measuring tape
*Pencil
*Saw
''Steps to do:''
#Measure, mark, and cut (2) 7' boards to be 6' long.
#Measure, mark, and cut (2) 10' boards to be 9'6" long.
#You will use the other boards uncut.

[[File:Exterior Wall Form Boards.png|thumb|600px|center]]

====Setting the forms====

===Narrow Wall Support Slabs===
We will support and stabilize the interior CEB walls with a 12" wide x 3-1/2" deep concrete slab. Rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.

====Preparing Rebar reinforcement assemblies====
Rebar Assembly for all 12” interior wall slabs

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(10) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 3’4” from one end.
#Bend 180⁰ the rebar with a 3” radius.
#Measure and mark so another 180⁰ with a 3” radius will produce 6’6” long assemblies.
#Cut the extra rebar (about 7’) off, leaving enough to tack weld each assembly together.

#Measure and mark (4) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 4’4” from the end.
#Bend 180⁰ with a 3” radius.
#Measure and mark so another 180⁰ with a 3” radius will produce 8’6” long assemblies.
#Cut the extra rebar off, leaving enough to tack weld each assembly together.

#Measure and mark (4) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” from the end.
#Bend 180⁰ with a 3” radius.
#Measure and mark so another 180⁰ with a 3” radius will produce 12’6” long assemblies.
#Use scrap cuttings (about 7’ long) to bridge the gap for each of these assemblies.
[[File:Rebar for 1' inside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

====Preparing the Concrete Forms====
These 12" wide slabs will provide a firm foundation on which to build our interior CEB room-dividing walls. Mostly they use the same sizes of forms you used for the outside walls. If you are pouring in small stages, you won't have build more forms because you can reuse the ones from the outside wall slabs. If you are going to pour all the concrete at once, you will need 7 more of the 13' inside form assemblies, 4 more uncut 7' boards, 2 more 7' boards cut to 6' lengths, 6 more boards cut to 9'6", and two boards cut to 9' in length.
Instructions for preparing all of these boards are found above - in the [[#Insulated Outside Wall Support Slabs/Preparing the Concrete Forms|Outside Wall Slabs]] section.

====Setting the Forms====

===Kitchen and Bath Areas===
The Kitchen and Bath Floor Areas both have a potential for receiving noticeable amounts of water. We consider it advisable to pave them both with concrete and include a central drain. Rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.
====Preparing the Rebar Assemblies====
Rebar Assembly for 16’x13’ slabs (make 2 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (4) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” from the end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Cut the long ends to 7’10” long.
#Overlap the short ends of two L-shaped pieces and measure to make a U shaped assembly with 12’6” between the legs.
#Make two of these assemblies.
#Overlap the legs of the U-shaped assemblies to make a rectangle measuring 15’6” x 12’6”
#Measure and cut (5) pieces of #4 rebar to 15’7” long.
#Measure and cut (7) pieces of #4 rebar to 12’7” long.
#Space and position the cut pieces into a 24” grid across the rectangle.
[[File:Rebar for between big slabs.png|thumb|600px|center]]

#Weld them into place.
[[File:Rebar for 16x13 slab.png|thumb|600px|center]]

There is one more assembly to go into this section between the two big ones. It is a modification of the exterior wall slab reinforcements.

Rebar Assembly for Interior 13’x3’ section of big Slab

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(2) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” #from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’ between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 6’4” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 12’6” by 2’ dimensions.

====Preparing the Concrete forms====
Because we are pouring this all at once, we decided to eliminate some complicated form work by including the equipment area and one room in this slab. This will be a big pour of concrete. It requires about 5 cubic yards of concrete. If you have plenty of time and are working in small batches, you can save over a yard of concrete by building the interior wall forms and pouring only wall-support pads - as shown on the layout.

The large slabs are laid between column pads, using 13' interior form assemblies. If you are pouring all at once, you will need two more of these assemblies, one more board cut to 9'6", and a piece of scrap about 3' long to complete the form work for this area. This, of course, assumes that you already have the exterior forms for the exterior wall slabs prepared. Instructions for preparing all of these are above in the [[#Insulated Outside Wall Support Slabs/Preparing the Concrete Forms|Outside Wall Slabs]]
section.
====Setting the Forms====

===Retaining Wall for Lower Level===
Ideas for this wall have been through several iterations. At present (Oct. 10th), we are planning to lay a 6" footer, 18" wide and 62' long. On top of that, we plan to put a 12" thick wall of bitumen-protected CEB. For the concrete footer, rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.
====Preparing the Rebar Assembly====
Rebar Assembly for Retaining wall footer

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(9) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Scrap #4 rebar to make (1) 6’ pieces and (1) 1’1” piece
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 8’ from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 12” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut (1) 6’ and (1) 1’1” piece of #4 rebar.
#Overlap and weld (1) 20’ length of rebar to each leg.
#Measure and weld the two longer legs together so the resulting assembly is 61’6” long.
#Weld the 6’ piece of rebar between the ends of the two shorter legs so that side is 61’6” long, too.
#Weld (3) 20’ pieces of #4 rebar into an approximately 60’ length of rebar.
#Center the 60’ piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld one end at the center of one end of the rectangle.
#Position the 1’1” piece of rebar across the rectangle to support the free end of the 60’ assembly.
#Weld the short piece to the three long ones.
[[File:Rebar Assembly for Retaining wall.png|thumb|600px|center]]
====Preparing the Concrete Form====
This is a really long form - 62 feet. You don't want to put it together ahead of time and try to carry it anywhere! What you ''do'' want to do is make sure you have all the pieces you will need cut and reserved against the time you will be setting the forms up.

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(8) 2"x6"x16' boards
*(6) Pieces of 2x4 or 2x6 scrap for splicing.
*Measuring tape
*Pencil
*Saw
''Steps to do''
#Measure and mark 18" from the end of (2) 2x6x16' boards
#Cut the two 18" pieces and mark them "form ends".
#Set aside the 6 16' boards, the 14'6" boards, the form ends, and all the scrap pieces in a reserve pile.

====Setting the Concrete Form====

==CEB Columns==

[[http://ww2.unhabitat.org/programmes/housingpolicy/Images/PDF.gif|UN CEB PDF]]

==CEB Arches==

[[http://ww2.unhabitat.org/programmes/housingpolicy/documents/Vault.pdf|UN Vaults PDF]]

[[http://www.amazon.com/Concrete-Hardness-Hammer-HT-225A-Portable/dp/B0049DDJCK/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1317915942&sr=8-6|Hardness Test Hammer]] for quality assurance

==CEB Floors==

[[http://www.velacreations.com/cebfloors.html|CEB Floor Instructions]]

==Insulated Roof==

# 16 11-member 2x6x16' frames
# a layer of tyvek
# a layer of lathe, mounted diagonally about 18" apart
# a layer of hay bales surrounded and around 2x12 spacers
# 16 11-member 2x4x16' frames
# agricultural roof panel on top and sides

Frames are built with one 16' beam on each end of 9 other 16' beams laid on 24" centers. These roof frames can be built quite quickly at any time labor is available, preferably ahead of time so that they can be installed as soon as the columns are ready to be covered.

==Super Insulated Walls==

2.5 foot thick wall.

4x6x12 bricks laid on the 12x4" side in standard wall layup, two walls outside surfaces 2.5' apart.

With air space left on either side, bales are stacked in the center of the wall, creating super insulation between the interior and exterior.

==Heating the HabLab==

I propose a [[http://www.heatkit.com Heatkit]] masonry furnace kit, surrounded by CEB

Hab Lab

2011-10-15T03:35:39Z

Margaret Ida: /* Laying out the locations for the forms on top of the foundation stone */

The need for all-weather housing to shelter year-round members of the community, located where summers can be unpleasantly hot and winters unpleasantly cold, can be met with superinsulated designs. Here we will examine some possible options and our progress in bring them into existence. Planning tools, instructions, modifications, etc. will be included.

The [[Hab Lab Design Gallery|Design Page]] is a good place to see what has been offered and to post any of your own great ideas. More ideas are great for everybody!

==Survey & Design==
The area on the property for the first group habitation was on a noticeable slope. OSE staff members worked with a home-made water level to take measurements over a 100' square area.

How to make a water level: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nAcT_1T25LM

Ideas submitted for this project are located on the [[Hab Lab Design Gallery]] page.

===Building Orientation===
Oops!
Some of our pads got set 3' South of their intended site. Here is an emergency redesign idea.
[[File:Emergency Remodel HabLab.png|thumb|800px|center]]

==Planning==

===Kitchen/Bath Water===

===Utility/Storage Area===

===Heating===
[[Space_Heating]]
====Source Material====
http://dnr.mo.gov/pubs/pub781.pdf

==Site Preparation==

The Hab Lab is designed to be supported by columns built of CEB (Compressed Earth Block)which are constructed on a reinforced concrete pad. Due to the slope of our site, we designed a lowered section which requires a low retaining wall. Included here are instructions for preparing the site with adequate footings.

Here is a picture with a preliminary excavation layout for the column pad sites and the retaining wall in the Hab Lab.
*When you are laying out the excavation site, be sure to add 5' in each direction for the excavator to work to.

[[File:HabLab Excavation Layout.png|thumb|800 px|center]]
This levels diagram is from our theoretical measurements - we actually wound up with a 2' drop, not a 2'8" drop. That will make only a minor difference in raising the building - changing the size of the retaining wall and removing one or two CEB's at the top of the lower columns to maintain the planned roof pitch.
[[File:Levels Diagram for Hab Lab Site.png|thumb|800 px|center]]

==Foundations & Column Slabs==

===Laying out the Hab Lab excavation site to be square===
''Collect equipment and supplies needed''
*Blueprint of site plan
*(2) 100’ Measuring tapes
*4 3-4’ stakes
*Hammer
*Bright spray paint
''Steps for Staking out the excavation site.''
#Choose a spot approximately 5 feet to the North and 5 feet to the West of the area to be excavated.
#Pound in a stake and spray paint the top foot or two of it.
#Measure due East a distance 10’ longer than the foundation width (total 67’).
#Place and paint another stake.
#Calculate a distance 10’ longer than the foundation length (total 62’).
#Calculate the diagonal measurement of the excavation site [Length(squared) x Width(squared) = Diagonal(squared)] (91'4").
#Measure due South from the Northwest stake the distance calculated in step 6.
#Set the second tape measure on the Northeast stake and measure the diagonal calculated in step 7 going Southwest.
#Set your third stake where the two measured lengths meet each other.
#Paint the stake.
#Measure due South from the Northeast stake the distance calculated in step 6.
#Set the second tape measure on the Northwest stake and measure the diagonal calculated in step 7 going Southeast.
#Set your fouth stake where the two measured lengths meet each other.
#Paint the stake.

*With the site leveled, the foundation holes for the column slabs must be laid out.
*After excavation, the stone fill for the foundation goes into the holes.
*At the same time, the 6" stone floor foundation is spread.

===Concrete forms and rebar reinforcing assemblies===
These can be built well ahead of need whenever volunteers are available.
*You could set up an assembly line effect to do them all at once with several people working together.
*An individual might do one unit at a time.
*An individual might do all the wood cutting at one time, another do all the rebar cutting at another time, another do all the rebar bending at another time.
*A couple of people might work together to get some wooden forms assembled once the pieces are cut, another time, a couple of people might work together to get some rebar assemblies welded.

The following step-by-step instructions are provided for building the forms and the reinforcing rebar assemblies.

[[https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=14oCxZUjs09wGuvaL4QTAII6hRxQpy20TKv7skH3INRWAVlXqtgdrh0D2ggtl&hl=en Assembly sheet for column pad forms]]

[[https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=1_hf2n-l9rCiEss45ZC8ogtMpeQki9fCoYIFdkD5x3lCOwjGh7Gknr-POJrNB&hl=en Rebar plan for column footings]]

===Laying out the locations for the forms on top of the foundation stone===
Once the form and rebar assemblies are built and the foundation stone is in place, the string site plan lay-out must be set up for placing the forms properly over their (now invisible) foundations. If you set your hole locating strings far enough out that the excavation didn't disturb them, this will be simple. It will be even easier if you rolled up your strings before the hole excavation got done and saved them. (See comments below!)

''Collect equipment and supplies needed''
*Blueprint of site plan
*100' tape measure
*Pre-placed marking stakes around outside of foundation site.
*Rolled up pre-used string balls from foundation hole layout
''Steps for Laying out Column Pad Form locations.''
#Measure to check that all pre-placed marking stakes are properly positioned.
#If any are missing or misplaced, replace or reposition them as needed.
#Unroll and retie the strings to their corresponding stakes across the foundation site .

Here's what the layout over the stone should look like.
[[File:HabLab Column Pad Form Layout.png|thumb|600 px|center]]

We had a great plan for this - we would set our stakes out first to mark the hole edges at 4'x4', save the strings and move the stakes in by 6" to 3'x3' for the setting the pad forms.

However, when we tried it in real life - Well...
*We lost a lot of our stakes during the excavation.
*We found the holes tended to come out bigger than we had intended them to be.
*And once the stone was laid over the site, we couldn't see where the foundation holes were located!
We wound up remeasuring and resetting most of the stakes for laying out the pad site grid.
*We dug stone out of two of corners to find the edges of the foundation holes.
*We remeasured and reset corner marking stakes inside those edges.
*We retriangulated with the diagonals to assure the foundation square.
*And we remeasured and reset stakes along all the edges.

So we've rewritten the foundation lay-out plans as they are currently posted. In the current version, we set the stakes at the 3'x3' points to start with so they don't need to be moved. We also emphasized setting them firmly - and safely outside the excavation area.

-Later Note-
Be really careful if you try to take short cuts! We used a short cut, marking only one side of each line of column pads when we had the problem outlined above. It seemed to work just fine. But it wasn't until we had the column pads set and were starting to set forms for the remaining concrete work that we discovered we had measured the distances between stakes from North to South on the West side - and the same distances from South to North on the East side! We think the emergency floor plan change we came up with will compensate for this without having to redo most of the column pads. If we run into more complications, we'll post on them!

===Setting the column pad forms===
''Collect equipment and supplies needed''
*Supplies
**16 Pre-built column pad forms
**80 form stakes (we used 2"x2"x18" wooden stakes)
*Equipment
**Heavy Hammer(s)
**4'spirit Level
**Water level
**tape measure
''Steps to place Column Pad forms''
#Use with the center pad site on the upper level as the reference pad.
#Set a pre-built column pad form in place under the string lines with the inside of the forms under the strings.
#Drive two form stakes next to the outside of one side and one on each of the other three sides. They will need to sit deep enough that the tops of the stakes will be level with (or lower than) the top of the form.
#Level the form.
##Screw one of the stakes (on the side with two) to the side of the form so that the form sits 1/2" above the gravel level. Be sure that the top of the stake is level with (or lower than) the top of the form.
##Use the spirit level to set this side of the form level and screw it in position.
##Use the spirit level to set the opposite side of the form at the same level.
##Check the level on the other two sides and screw them in place.
#Use the water level to set the first level on each of the other pads on the upper level.
#Repeat the remainder of the leveling steps for each form.
#Use the water level to set the level of the center form in the lower level at 24" lower than the upper level pads.
#Complete the leveling steps for this form.
#Use the center form on the lower level for a reference form to set and level the remaining lower level column pad forms.

[[File:Setting Column Pad Forms Diagram.png|thumb|600 px|center]]

===Preparing Column Pad Forms for Reinforced Concrete===
Collect equipment and supplies needed
*Supplies
**16 Pre-built column pad rebar assemblies
**64 rebar chairs
*Equipment
**Rake(s)
**shovel
**tape measure
#Use a rake and shovel to remove about 2" of stone from the inside of the form. (until is 6" deep)
#Pack removed stone around outside of forms to create a fully enclosed 6" deep form.
#Use one prebuilt column pad rebar assembly for each column pad site.
#Center the rebar assembly with 3” gap between assembly and form wall on every side.
#Set rebar chairs under corners of prebuilt column pad rebar assemblies.-Put a stone or some gravel under the chairs if needed to center the rebar so it will sit at about the middle of the finished slab (3" off the floor of the form).

[[File:Preparing Column Pad Sites for Concrete Pouring.png|thumb|600 px|center]]

==Concrete Work==
We are preparing to do the big concrete pour. Using the FreeMind mind map model, this is the node that outlines the dependencies so we can be ready for that. Following sections include instructions for accomplishing them.
[[File:Dependencies for Getting Floors Poured.png|thumb|800px|center]]
Here is the planning layout for the concrete - which we are planning to do in one great big pour. We'll let you know how it goes!
[[File:HabLab Concrete Forms Layout.png|800px|center]]

===Insulated Outside Wall Support Slabs===
We are planning to put reinforced concrete the full 3' width of the Column Support Pads all the way around the outside of the building. They will be 3-1/2" (2x4 lumber size) deep and will support the two CEB walls that enclose the hay bale insulation. Rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.

====Preparing the rebar reinforcement assemblies====
Rebar Assembly for 13’ Outside Wall pads (make 11 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’6” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 6’4” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 12’6” by 2’6” dimensions.
#Measure and cut (1) 20’ piece of #4 rebar to 12’7” in length.
#Center the 12’7” piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld it into place.
[[File:Rebar for outside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

Rebar Assembly for 9’6” Outside Wall pads (make 2 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 4’7” from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’6” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 4’7” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 9’ by 2’6” dimensions.
#Measure and cut (1) 20’ piece of #4 rebar to 9’1” in length.
#Center the 9’1” piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld it into place.
[[File:Rebar for 9.5' outside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

Rebar Assembly for 7' Outside Wall pads (make 2 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 3’4” from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’6” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 3’4” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 6’6” by 2’6” dimensions.
#Measure and cut (1) 20’ piece of #4 rebar to 6'7" in length.
#Center the 6'7" piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld it into place.
[[File:Rebar for 7' outside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

====Preparing the concrete forms====
Our pouring plan requires these forms relating to the outside wall construction. For those wall pads that are part of our interior pads, additional forms are in other sections. If you are not pouring large interior pads, you will need to adjust the number of interior forms.

Exterior Forms for 13' Wall slabs. (make 10 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(2) 2"x4"x7' pine studs
*(1) piece of scrap lumber,
*(4) 3" screws
*Driver
''Steps to do:''
#Start two screws into the flat side of each end of the piece of scrap lumber.
#Butt the two 7' boards end to end
#Lay the piece of scrap lumber over the seam butt joint.
#Be sure the narrow sides of the boards are lined up evenly with each other.
#Drive the screws in completely to hold the boards in line.

Interior Forms for 13' Wall slabs. (make 5 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(2) 2"x4"x7' pine studs
*Measuring tape
*Pencil
*Saw
*(4) 3" screws
*Driver
''Steps to do:''
#Measure, mark, and cut one board to be 6' long.
#Start two screws into the flat side of each end of the 1' piece of scrap lumber.
#Butt the 6' piece with the other 7' board end to end
#Lay the piece of scrap lumber over the seam butt joint.
#Be sure the narrow sides of the boards are lined up evenly with each other.
#Drive the screws in completely to hold the boards in line.

Forms for Wall slabs on split-level section

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(6) 2"x4"x7' pine studs
*(4) 2"x4"x10' pine studs
*Measuring tape
*Pencil
*Saw
''Steps to do:''
#Measure, mark, and cut (2) 7' boards to be 6' long.
#Measure, mark, and cut (2) 10' boards to be 9'6" long.
#You will use the other boards uncut.

[[File:Exterior Wall Form Boards.png|thumb|600px|center]]

====Setting the forms====

===Narrow Wall Support Slabs===
We will support and stabilize the interior CEB walls with a 12" wide x 3-1/2" deep concrete slab. Rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.

====Preparing Rebar reinforcement assemblies====
Rebar Assembly for all 12” interior wall slabs

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(10) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 3’4” from one end.
#Bend 180⁰ the rebar with a 3” radius.
#Measure and mark so another 180⁰ with a 3” radius will produce 6’6” long assemblies.
#Cut the extra rebar (about 7’) off, leaving enough to tack weld each assembly together.

#Measure and mark (4) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 4’4” from the end.
#Bend 180⁰ with a 3” radius.
#Measure and mark so another 180⁰ with a 3” radius will produce 8’6” long assemblies.
#Cut the extra rebar off, leaving enough to tack weld each assembly together.

#Measure and mark (4) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” from the end.
#Bend 180⁰ with a 3” radius.
#Measure and mark so another 180⁰ with a 3” radius will produce 12’6” long assemblies.
#Use scrap cuttings (about 7’ long) to bridge the gap for each of these assemblies.
[[File:Rebar for 1' inside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

====Preparing the Concrete Forms====
These 12" wide slabs will provide a firm foundation on which to build our interior CEB room-dividing walls. Mostly they use the same sizes of forms you used for the outside walls. If you are pouring in small stages, you won't have build more forms because you can reuse the ones from the outside wall slabs. If you are going to pour all the concrete at once, you will need 7 more of the 13' inside form assemblies, 4 more uncut 7' boards, 2 more 7' boards cut to 6' lengths, 6 more boards cut to 9'6", and two boards cut to 9' in length.
Instructions for preparing all of these boards are found above - in the [[#Insulated Outside Wall Support Slabs/Preparing the Concrete Forms|Outside Wall Slabs]] section.

====Setting the Forms====

===Kitchen and Bath Areas===
The Kitchen and Bath Floor Areas both have a potential for receiving noticeable amounts of water. We consider it advisable to pave them both with concrete and include a central drain. Rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.
====Preparing the Rebar Assemblies====
Rebar Assembly for 16’x13’ slabs (make 2 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (4) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” from the end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Cut the long ends to 7’10” long.
#Overlap the short ends of two L-shaped pieces and measure to make a U shaped assembly with 12’6” between the legs.
#Make two of these assemblies.
#Overlap the legs of the U-shaped assemblies to make a rectangle measuring 15’6” x 12’6”
#Measure and cut (5) pieces of #4 rebar to 15’7” long.
#Measure and cut (7) pieces of #4 rebar to 12’7” long.
#Space and position the cut pieces into a 24” grid across the rectangle.
[[File:Rebar for between big slabs.png|thumb|600px|center]]

#Weld them into place.
[[File:Rebar for 16x13 slab.png|thumb|600px|center]]

There is one more assembly to go into this section between the two big ones. It is a modification of the exterior wall slab reinforcements.

Rebar Assembly for Interior 13’x3’ section of big Slab

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(2) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” #from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’ between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 6’4” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 12’6” by 2’ dimensions.

====Preparing the Concrete forms====
Because we are pouring this all at once, we decided to eliminate some complicated form work by including the equipment area and one room in this slab. This will be a big pour of concrete. It requires about 5 cubic yards of concrete. If you have plenty of time and are working in small batches, you can save over a yard of concrete by building the interior wall forms and pouring only wall-support pads - as shown on the layout.

The large slabs are laid between column pads, using 13' interior form assemblies. If you are pouring all at once, you will need two more of these assemblies, one more board cut to 9'6", and a piece of scrap about 3' long to complete the form work for this area. This, of course, assumes that you already have the exterior forms for the exterior wall slabs prepared. Instructions for preparing all of these are above in the [[#Insulated Outside Wall Support Slabs/Preparing the Concrete Forms|Outside Wall Slabs]]
section.
====Setting the Forms====

===Retaining Wall for Lower Level===
Ideas for this wall have been through several iterations. At present (Oct. 10th), we are planning to lay a 6" footer, 18" wide and 62' long. On top of that, we plan to put a 12" thick wall of bitumen-protected CEB. For the concrete footer, rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.
====Preparing the Rebar Assembly====
Rebar Assembly for Retaining wall footer

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(9) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Scrap #4 rebar to make (1) 6’ pieces and (1) 1’1” piece
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 8’ from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 12” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut (1) 6’ and (1) 1’1” piece of #4 rebar.
#Overlap and weld (1) 20’ length of rebar to each leg.
#Measure and weld the two longer legs together so the resulting assembly is 61’6” long.
#Weld the 6’ piece of rebar between the ends of the two shorter legs so that side is 61’6” long, too.
#Weld (3) 20’ pieces of #4 rebar into an approximately 60’ length of rebar.
#Center the 60’ piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld one end at the center of one end of the rectangle.
#Position the 1’1” piece of rebar across the rectangle to support the free end of the 60’ assembly.
#Weld the short piece to the three long ones.
[[File:Rebar Assembly for Retaining wall.png|thumb|600px|center]]
====Preparing the Concrete Form====
This is a really long form - 62 feet. You don't want to put it together ahead of time and try to carry it anywhere! What you ''do'' want to do is make sure you have all the pieces you will need cut and reserved against the time you will be setting the forms up.

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(8) 2"x6"x16' boards
*(6) Pieces of 2x4 or 2x6 scrap for splicing.
*Measuring tape
*Pencil
*Saw
''Steps to do''
#Measure and mark 18" from the end of (2) 2x6x16' boards
#Cut the two 18" pieces and mark them "form ends".
#Set aside the 6 16' boards, the 14'6" boards, the form ends, and all the scrap pieces in a reserve pile.

====Setting the Concrete Form====

==CEB Columns==

[[http://ww2.unhabitat.org/programmes/housingpolicy/Images/PDF.gif|UN CEB PDF]]

==CEB Arches==

[[http://ww2.unhabitat.org/programmes/housingpolicy/documents/Vault.pdf|UN Vaults PDF]]

[[http://www.amazon.com/Concrete-Hardness-Hammer-HT-225A-Portable/dp/B0049DDJCK/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1317915942&sr=8-6|Hardness Test Hammer]] for quality assurance

==CEB Floors==

[[http://www.velacreations.com/cebfloors.html|CEB Floor Instructions]]

==Insulated Roof==

# 16 11-member 2x6x16' frames
# a layer of tyvek
# a layer of lathe, mounted diagonally about 18" apart
# a layer of hay bales surrounded and around 2x12 spacers
# 16 11-member 2x4x16' frames
# agricultural roof panel on top and sides

Frames are built with one 16' beam on each end of 9 other 16' beams laid on 24" centers. These roof frames can be built quite quickly at any time labor is available, preferably ahead of time so that they can be installed as soon as the columns are ready to be covered.

==Super Insulated Walls==

2.5 foot thick wall.

4x6x12 bricks laid on the 12x4" side in standard wall layup, two walls outside surfaces 2.5' apart.

With air space left on either side, bales are stacked in the center of the wall, creating super insulation between the interior and exterior.

==Heating the HabLab==

I propose a [[http://www.heatkit.com Heatkit]] masonry furnace kit, surrounded by CEB

File:Emergency Remodel HabLab.png

2011-10-13T23:16:35Z

Margaret Ida: uploaded a new version of "File:Emergency Remodel HabLab.png"

Hab Lab

2011-10-13T22:10:56Z

Margaret Ida: /* Preparing the Rebar Assemblies */

The need for all-weather housing to shelter year-round members of the community, located where summers can be unpleasantly hot and winters unpleasantly cold, can be met with superinsulated designs. Here we will examine some possible options and our progress in bring them into existence. Planning tools, instructions, modifications, etc. will be included.

The [[Hab Lab Design Gallery|Design Page]] is a good place to see what has been offered and to post any of your own great ideas. More ideas are great for everybody!

==Survey & Design==
The area on the property for the first group habitation was on a noticeable slope. OSE staff members worked with a home-made water level to take measurements over a 100' square area.

How to make a water level: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nAcT_1T25LM

Ideas submitted for this project are located on the [[Hab Lab Design Gallery]] page.

===Building Orientation===
Oops!
Some of our pads got set 3' South of their intended site. Here is an emergency redesign idea.
[[File:Emergency Remodel HabLab.png|thumb|800px|center]]

==Planning==

===Kitchen/Bath Water===

===Utility/Storage Area===

===Heating===
[[Space_Heating]]
====Source Material====
http://dnr.mo.gov/pubs/pub781.pdf

==Site Preparation==

The Hab Lab is designed to be supported by columns built of CEB (Compressed Earth Block)which are constructed on a reinforced concrete pad. Due to the slope of our site, we designed a lowered section which requires a low retaining wall. Included here are instructions for preparing the site with adequate footings.

Here is a picture with a preliminary excavation layout for the column pad sites and the retaining wall in the Hab Lab.
*When you are laying out the excavation site, be sure to add 5' in each direction for the excavator to work to.

[[File:HabLab Excavation Layout.png|thumb|800 px|center]]
This levels diagram is from our theoretical measurements - we actually wound up with a 2' drop, not a 2'8" drop. That will make only a minor difference in raising the building - changing the size of the retaining wall and removing one or two CEB's at the top of the lower columns to maintain the planned roof pitch.
[[File:Levels Diagram for Hab Lab Site.png|thumb|800 px|center]]

==Foundations & Column Slabs==

===Laying out the Hab Lab excavation site to be square===
''Collect equipment and supplies needed''
*Blueprint of site plan
*(2) 100’ Measuring tapes
*4 3-4’ stakes
*Hammer
*Bright spray paint
''Steps for Staking out the excavation site.''
#Choose a spot approximately 5 feet to the North and 5 feet to the West of the area to be excavated.
#Pound in a stake and spray paint the top foot or two of it.
#Measure due East a distance 10’ longer than the foundation width (total 67’).
#Place and paint another stake.
#Calculate a distance 10’ longer than the foundation length (total 62’).
#Calculate the diagonal measurement of the excavation site [Length(squared) x Width(squared) = Diagonal(squared)] (91'4").
#Measure due South from the Northwest stake the distance calculated in step 6.
#Set the second tape measure on the Northeast stake and measure the diagonal calculated in step 7 going Southwest.
#Set your third stake where the two measured lengths meet each other.
#Paint the stake.
#Measure due South from the Northeast stake the distance calculated in step 6.
#Set the second tape measure on the Northwest stake and measure the diagonal calculated in step 7 going Southeast.
#Set your fouth stake where the two measured lengths meet each other.
#Paint the stake.

*With the site leveled, the foundation holes for the column slabs must be laid out.
*After excavation, the stone fill for the foundation goes into the holes.
*At the same time, the 6" stone floor foundation is spread.

===Concrete forms and rebar reinforcing assemblies===
These can be built well ahead of need whenever volunteers are available.
*You could set up an assembly line effect to do them all at once with several people working together.
*An individual might do one unit at a time.
*An individual might do all the wood cutting at one time, another do all the rebar cutting at another time, another do all the rebar bending at another time.
*A couple of people might work together to get some wooden forms assembled once the pieces are cut, another time, a couple of people might work together to get some rebar assemblies welded.

The following step-by-step instructions are provided for building the forms and the reinforcing rebar assemblies.

[[https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=14oCxZUjs09wGuvaL4QTAII6hRxQpy20TKv7skH3INRWAVlXqtgdrh0D2ggtl&hl=en Assembly sheet for column pad forms]]

[[https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=1_hf2n-l9rCiEss45ZC8ogtMpeQki9fCoYIFdkD5x3lCOwjGh7Gknr-POJrNB&hl=en Rebar plan for column footings]]

===Laying out the locations for the forms on top of the foundation stone===
Once the form and rebar assemblies are built and the foundation stone is in place, the string site plan lay-out must be set up for placing the forms properly over their (now invisible) foundations. If you set your hole locating strings far enough out that the excavation didn't disturb them, this will be simple. It will be even easier if you rolled up your strings before the hole excavation got done and saved them. (See comments below!)

''Collect equipment and supplies needed''
*Blueprint of site plan
*100' tape measure
*Pre-placed marking stakes around outside of foundation site.
*Rolled up pre-used string balls from foundation hole layout
''Steps for Laying out Column Pad Form locations.''
#Measure to check that all pre-placed marking stakes are properly positioned.
#If any are missing or misplaced, replace or reposition them as needed.
#Unroll and retie the strings to their corresponding stakes across the foundation site .

Here's what the layout over the stone should look like.
[[File:HabLab Column Pad Form Layout.png|thumb|600 px|center]]

We had a great plan for this - we would set our stakes out first to mark the hole edges at 4'x4', save the strings and move the stakes in by 6" to 3'x3' for the setting the pad forms.

However, when we tried it in real life - Well...
*We lost a lot of our stakes during the excavation.
*We found the holes tended to come out bigger than we had intended them to be.
*And once the stone was laid over the site, we couldn't see where the foundation holes were located!
We wound up remeasuring and resetting most of the stakes for laying out the pad site grid.
*We dug stone out of two of corners to find the edges of the foundation holes.
*We remeasured and reset corner marking stakes inside those edges.
*We retriangulated with the diagonals to assure the foundation square.
*And we remeasured and reset stakes along all the edges.

So we've rewritten the foundation lay-out plans as they are currently posted. In the current version, we set the stakes at the 3'x3' points to start with so they don't need to be moved. We also emphasized setting them firmly - and safely outside the excavation area.

===Setting the column pad forms===
''Collect equipment and supplies needed''
*Supplies
**16 Pre-built column pad forms
**80 form stakes (we used 2"x2"x18" wooden stakes)
*Equipment
**Heavy Hammer(s)
**4'spirit Level
**Water level
**tape measure
''Steps to place Column Pad forms''
#Use with the center pad site on the upper level as the reference pad.
#Set a pre-built column pad form in place under the string lines with the inside of the forms under the strings.
#Drive two form stakes next to the outside of one side and one on each of the other three sides. They will need to sit deep enough that the tops of the stakes will be level with (or lower than) the top of the form.
#Level the form.
##Screw one of the stakes (on the side with two) to the side of the form so that the form sits 1/2" above the gravel level. Be sure that the top of the stake is level with (or lower than) the top of the form.
##Use the spirit level to set this side of the form level and screw it in position.
##Use the spirit level to set the opposite side of the form at the same level.
##Check the level on the other two sides and screw them in place.
#Use the water level to set the first level on each of the other pads on the upper level.
#Repeat the remainder of the leveling steps for each form.
#Use the water level to set the level of the center form in the lower level at 24" lower than the upper level pads.
#Complete the leveling steps for this form.
#Use the center form on the lower level for a reference form to set and level the remaining lower level column pad forms.

[[File:Setting Column Pad Forms Diagram.png|thumb|600 px|center]]

===Preparing Column Pad Forms for Reinforced Concrete===
Collect equipment and supplies needed
*Supplies
**16 Pre-built column pad rebar assemblies
**64 rebar chairs
*Equipment
**Rake(s)
**shovel
**tape measure
#Use a rake and shovel to remove about 2" of stone from the inside of the form. (until is 6" deep)
#Pack removed stone around outside of forms to create a fully enclosed 6" deep form.
#Use one prebuilt column pad rebar assembly for each column pad site.
#Center the rebar assembly with 3” gap between assembly and form wall on every side.
#Set rebar chairs under corners of prebuilt column pad rebar assemblies.-Put a stone or some gravel under the chairs if needed to center the rebar so it will sit at about the middle of the finished slab (3" off the floor of the form).

[[File:Preparing Column Pad Sites for Concrete Pouring.png|thumb|600 px|center]]

==Concrete Work==
We are preparing to do the big concrete pour. Using the FreeMind mind map model, this is the node that outlines the dependencies so we can be ready for that. Following sections include instructions for accomplishing them.
[[File:Dependencies for Getting Floors Poured.png|thumb|800px|center]]
Here is the planning layout for the concrete - which we are planning to do in one great big pour. We'll let you know how it goes!
[[File:HabLab Concrete Forms Layout.png|800px|center]]

===Insulated Outside Wall Support Slabs===
We are planning to put reinforced concrete the full 3' width of the Column Support Pads all the way around the outside of the building. They will be 3-1/2" (2x4 lumber size) deep and will support the two CEB walls that enclose the hay bale insulation. Rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.

====Preparing the rebar reinforcement assemblies====
Rebar Assembly for 13’ Outside Wall pads (make 11 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’6” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 6’4” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 12’6” by 2’6” dimensions.
#Measure and cut (1) 20’ piece of #4 rebar to 12’7” in length.
#Center the 12’7” piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld it into place.
[[File:Rebar for outside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

Rebar Assembly for 9’6” Outside Wall pads (make 2 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 4’7” from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’6” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 4’7” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 9’ by 2’6” dimensions.
#Measure and cut (1) 20’ piece of #4 rebar to 9’1” in length.
#Center the 9’1” piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld it into place.
[[File:Rebar for 9.5' outside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

Rebar Assembly for 7' Outside Wall pads (make 2 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 3’4” from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’6” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 3’4” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 6’6” by 2’6” dimensions.
#Measure and cut (1) 20’ piece of #4 rebar to 6'7" in length.
#Center the 6'7" piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld it into place.
[[File:Rebar for 7' outside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

====Preparing the concrete forms====
Our pouring plan requires these forms relating to the outside wall construction. For those wall pads that are part of our interior pads, additional forms are in other sections. If you are not pouring large interior pads, you will need to adjust the number of interior forms.

Exterior Forms for 13' Wall slabs. (make 10 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(2) 2"x4"x7' pine studs
*(1) piece of scrap lumber,
*(4) 3" screws
*Driver
''Steps to do:''
#Start two screws into the flat side of each end of the piece of scrap lumber.
#Butt the two 7' boards end to end
#Lay the piece of scrap lumber over the seam butt joint.
#Be sure the narrow sides of the boards are lined up evenly with each other.
#Drive the screws in completely to hold the boards in line.

Interior Forms for 13' Wall slabs. (make 5 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(2) 2"x4"x7' pine studs
*Measuring tape
*Pencil
*Saw
*(4) 3" screws
*Driver
''Steps to do:''
#Measure, mark, and cut one board to be 6' long.
#Start two screws into the flat side of each end of the 1' piece of scrap lumber.
#Butt the 6' piece with the other 7' board end to end
#Lay the piece of scrap lumber over the seam butt joint.
#Be sure the narrow sides of the boards are lined up evenly with each other.
#Drive the screws in completely to hold the boards in line.

Forms for Wall slabs on split-level section

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(6) 2"x4"x7' pine studs
*(4) 2"x4"x10' pine studs
*Measuring tape
*Pencil
*Saw
''Steps to do:''
#Measure, mark, and cut (2) 7' boards to be 6' long.
#Measure, mark, and cut (2) 10' boards to be 9'6" long.
#You will use the other boards uncut.

[[File:Exterior Wall Form Boards.png|thumb|600px|center]]

====Setting the forms====

===Narrow Wall Support Slabs===
We will support and stabilize the interior CEB walls with a 12" wide x 3-1/2" deep concrete slab. Rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.

====Preparing Rebar reinforcement assemblies====
Rebar Assembly for all 12” interior wall slabs

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(10) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 3’4” from one end.
#Bend 180⁰ the rebar with a 3” radius.
#Measure and mark so another 180⁰ with a 3” radius will produce 6’6” long assemblies.
#Cut the extra rebar (about 7’) off, leaving enough to tack weld each assembly together.

#Measure and mark (4) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 4’4” from the end.
#Bend 180⁰ with a 3” radius.
#Measure and mark so another 180⁰ with a 3” radius will produce 8’6” long assemblies.
#Cut the extra rebar off, leaving enough to tack weld each assembly together.

#Measure and mark (4) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” from the end.
#Bend 180⁰ with a 3” radius.
#Measure and mark so another 180⁰ with a 3” radius will produce 12’6” long assemblies.
#Use scrap cuttings (about 7’ long) to bridge the gap for each of these assemblies.
[[File:Rebar for 1' inside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

====Preparing the Concrete Forms====
These 12" wide slabs will provide a firm foundation on which to build our interior CEB room-dividing walls. Mostly they use the same sizes of forms you used for the outside walls. If you are pouring in small stages, you won't have build more forms because you can reuse the ones from the outside wall slabs. If you are going to pour all the concrete at once, you will need 7 more of the 13' inside form assemblies, 4 more uncut 7' boards, 2 more 7' boards cut to 6' lengths, 6 more boards cut to 9'6", and two boards cut to 9' in length.
Instructions for preparing all of these boards are found above - in the [[#Insulated Outside Wall Support Slabs/Preparing the Concrete Forms|Outside Wall Slabs]] section.

====Setting the Forms====

===Kitchen and Bath Areas===
The Kitchen and Bath Floor Areas both have a potential for receiving noticeable amounts of water. We consider it advisable to pave them both with concrete and include a central drain. Rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.
====Preparing the Rebar Assemblies====
Rebar Assembly for 16’x13’ slabs (make 2 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (4) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” from the end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Cut the long ends to 7’10” long.
#Overlap the short ends of two L-shaped pieces and measure to make a U shaped assembly with 12’6” between the legs.
#Make two of these assemblies.
#Overlap the legs of the U-shaped assemblies to make a rectangle measuring 15’6” x 12’6”
#Measure and cut (5) pieces of #4 rebar to 15’7” long.
#Measure and cut (7) pieces of #4 rebar to 12’7” long.
#Space and position the cut pieces into a 24” grid across the rectangle.
[[File:Rebar for between big slabs.png|thumb|600px|center]]

#Weld them into place.
[[File:Rebar for 16x13 slab.png|thumb|600px|center]]

There is one more assembly to go into this section between the two big ones. It is a modification of the exterior wall slab reinforcements.

Rebar Assembly for Interior 13’x3’ section of big Slab

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(2) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” #from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’ between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 6’4” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 12’6” by 2’ dimensions.

====Preparing the Concrete forms====
Because we are pouring this all at once, we decided to eliminate some complicated form work by including the equipment area and one room in this slab. This will be a big pour of concrete. It requires about 5 cubic yards of concrete. If you have plenty of time and are working in small batches, you can save over a yard of concrete by building the interior wall forms and pouring only wall-support pads - as shown on the layout.

The large slabs are laid between column pads, using 13' interior form assemblies. If you are pouring all at once, you will need two more of these assemblies, one more board cut to 9'6", and a piece of scrap about 3' long to complete the form work for this area. This, of course, assumes that you already have the exterior forms for the exterior wall slabs prepared. Instructions for preparing all of these are above in the [[#Insulated Outside Wall Support Slabs/Preparing the Concrete Forms|Outside Wall Slabs]]
section.
====Setting the Forms====

===Retaining Wall for Lower Level===
Ideas for this wall have been through several iterations. At present (Oct. 10th), we are planning to lay a 6" footer, 18" wide and 62' long. On top of that, we plan to put a 12" thick wall of bitumen-protected CEB. For the concrete footer, rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.
====Preparing the Rebar Assembly====
Rebar Assembly for Retaining wall footer

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(9) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Scrap #4 rebar to make (1) 6’ pieces and (1) 1’1” piece
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 8’ from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 12” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut (1) 6’ and (1) 1’1” piece of #4 rebar.
#Overlap and weld (1) 20’ length of rebar to each leg.
#Measure and weld the two longer legs together so the resulting assembly is 61’6” long.
#Weld the 6’ piece of rebar between the ends of the two shorter legs so that side is 61’6” long, too.
#Weld (3) 20’ pieces of #4 rebar into an approximately 60’ length of rebar.
#Center the 60’ piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld one end at the center of one end of the rectangle.
#Position the 1’1” piece of rebar across the rectangle to support the free end of the 60’ assembly.
#Weld the short piece to the three long ones.
[[File:Rebar Assembly for Retaining wall.png|thumb|600px|center]]
====Preparing the Concrete Form====
This is a really long form - 62 feet. You don't want to put it together ahead of time and try to carry it anywhere! What you ''do'' want to do is make sure you have all the pieces you will need cut and reserved against the time you will be setting the forms up.

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(8) 2"x6"x16' boards
*(6) Pieces of 2x4 or 2x6 scrap for splicing.
*Measuring tape
*Pencil
*Saw
''Steps to do''
#Measure and mark 18" from the end of (2) 2x6x16' boards
#Cut the two 18" pieces and mark them "form ends".
#Set aside the 6 16' boards, the 14'6" boards, the form ends, and all the scrap pieces in a reserve pile.

====Setting the Concrete Form====

==CEB Columns==

[[http://ww2.unhabitat.org/programmes/housingpolicy/Images/PDF.gif|UN CEB PDF]]

==CEB Arches==

[[http://ww2.unhabitat.org/programmes/housingpolicy/documents/Vault.pdf|UN Vaults PDF]]

[[http://www.amazon.com/Concrete-Hardness-Hammer-HT-225A-Portable/dp/B0049DDJCK/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1317915942&sr=8-6|Hardness Test Hammer]] for quality assurance

==CEB Floors==

[[http://www.velacreations.com/cebfloors.html|CEB Floor Instructions]]

==Insulated Roof==

# 16 11-member 2x6x16' frames
# a layer of tyvek
# a layer of lathe, mounted diagonally about 18" apart
# a layer of hay bales surrounded and around 2x12 spacers
# 16 11-member 2x4x16' frames
# agricultural roof panel on top and sides

Frames are built with one 16' beam on each end of 9 other 16' beams laid on 24" centers. These roof frames can be built quite quickly at any time labor is available, preferably ahead of time so that they can be installed as soon as the columns are ready to be covered.

==Super Insulated Walls==

2.5 foot thick wall.

4x6x12 bricks laid on the 12x4" side in standard wall layup, two walls outside surfaces 2.5' apart.

With air space left on either side, bales are stacked in the center of the wall, creating super insulation between the interior and exterior.

==Heating the HabLab==

I propose a [[http://www.heatkit.com Heatkit]] masonry furnace kit, surrounded by CEB

File:Rebar for between big slabs.png

2011-10-13T22:08:58Z

Margaret Ida:

Hab Lab

2011-10-13T22:07:44Z

Margaret Ida: /* Preparing the Rebar Assemblies */

The need for all-weather housing to shelter year-round members of the community, located where summers can be unpleasantly hot and winters unpleasantly cold, can be met with superinsulated designs. Here we will examine some possible options and our progress in bring them into existence. Planning tools, instructions, modifications, etc. will be included.

The [[Hab Lab Design Gallery|Design Page]] is a good place to see what has been offered and to post any of your own great ideas. More ideas are great for everybody!

==Survey & Design==
The area on the property for the first group habitation was on a noticeable slope. OSE staff members worked with a home-made water level to take measurements over a 100' square area.

How to make a water level: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nAcT_1T25LM

Ideas submitted for this project are located on the [[Hab Lab Design Gallery]] page.

===Building Orientation===
Oops!
Some of our pads got set 3' South of their intended site. Here is an emergency redesign idea.
[[File:Emergency Remodel HabLab.png|thumb|800px|center]]

==Planning==

===Kitchen/Bath Water===

===Utility/Storage Area===

===Heating===
[[Space_Heating]]
====Source Material====
http://dnr.mo.gov/pubs/pub781.pdf

==Site Preparation==

The Hab Lab is designed to be supported by columns built of CEB (Compressed Earth Block)which are constructed on a reinforced concrete pad. Due to the slope of our site, we designed a lowered section which requires a low retaining wall. Included here are instructions for preparing the site with adequate footings.

Here is a picture with a preliminary excavation layout for the column pad sites and the retaining wall in the Hab Lab.
*When you are laying out the excavation site, be sure to add 5' in each direction for the excavator to work to.

[[File:HabLab Excavation Layout.png|thumb|800 px|center]]
This levels diagram is from our theoretical measurements - we actually wound up with a 2' drop, not a 2'8" drop. That will make only a minor difference in raising the building - changing the size of the retaining wall and removing one or two CEB's at the top of the lower columns to maintain the planned roof pitch.
[[File:Levels Diagram for Hab Lab Site.png|thumb|800 px|center]]

==Foundations & Column Slabs==

===Laying out the Hab Lab excavation site to be square===
''Collect equipment and supplies needed''
*Blueprint of site plan
*(2) 100’ Measuring tapes
*4 3-4’ stakes
*Hammer
*Bright spray paint
''Steps for Staking out the excavation site.''
#Choose a spot approximately 5 feet to the North and 5 feet to the West of the area to be excavated.
#Pound in a stake and spray paint the top foot or two of it.
#Measure due East a distance 10’ longer than the foundation width (total 67’).
#Place and paint another stake.
#Calculate a distance 10’ longer than the foundation length (total 62’).
#Calculate the diagonal measurement of the excavation site [Length(squared) x Width(squared) = Diagonal(squared)] (91'4").
#Measure due South from the Northwest stake the distance calculated in step 6.
#Set the second tape measure on the Northeast stake and measure the diagonal calculated in step 7 going Southwest.
#Set your third stake where the two measured lengths meet each other.
#Paint the stake.
#Measure due South from the Northeast stake the distance calculated in step 6.
#Set the second tape measure on the Northwest stake and measure the diagonal calculated in step 7 going Southeast.
#Set your fouth stake where the two measured lengths meet each other.
#Paint the stake.

*With the site leveled, the foundation holes for the column slabs must be laid out.
*After excavation, the stone fill for the foundation goes into the holes.
*At the same time, the 6" stone floor foundation is spread.

===Concrete forms and rebar reinforcing assemblies===
These can be built well ahead of need whenever volunteers are available.
*You could set up an assembly line effect to do them all at once with several people working together.
*An individual might do one unit at a time.
*An individual might do all the wood cutting at one time, another do all the rebar cutting at another time, another do all the rebar bending at another time.
*A couple of people might work together to get some wooden forms assembled once the pieces are cut, another time, a couple of people might work together to get some rebar assemblies welded.

The following step-by-step instructions are provided for building the forms and the reinforcing rebar assemblies.

[[https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=14oCxZUjs09wGuvaL4QTAII6hRxQpy20TKv7skH3INRWAVlXqtgdrh0D2ggtl&hl=en Assembly sheet for column pad forms]]

[[https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=1_hf2n-l9rCiEss45ZC8ogtMpeQki9fCoYIFdkD5x3lCOwjGh7Gknr-POJrNB&hl=en Rebar plan for column footings]]

===Laying out the locations for the forms on top of the foundation stone===
Once the form and rebar assemblies are built and the foundation stone is in place, the string site plan lay-out must be set up for placing the forms properly over their (now invisible) foundations. If you set your hole locating strings far enough out that the excavation didn't disturb them, this will be simple. It will be even easier if you rolled up your strings before the hole excavation got done and saved them. (See comments below!)

''Collect equipment and supplies needed''
*Blueprint of site plan
*100' tape measure
*Pre-placed marking stakes around outside of foundation site.
*Rolled up pre-used string balls from foundation hole layout
''Steps for Laying out Column Pad Form locations.''
#Measure to check that all pre-placed marking stakes are properly positioned.
#If any are missing or misplaced, replace or reposition them as needed.
#Unroll and retie the strings to their corresponding stakes across the foundation site .

Here's what the layout over the stone should look like.
[[File:HabLab Column Pad Form Layout.png|thumb|600 px|center]]

We had a great plan for this - we would set our stakes out first to mark the hole edges at 4'x4', save the strings and move the stakes in by 6" to 3'x3' for the setting the pad forms.

However, when we tried it in real life - Well...
*We lost a lot of our stakes during the excavation.
*We found the holes tended to come out bigger than we had intended them to be.
*And once the stone was laid over the site, we couldn't see where the foundation holes were located!
We wound up remeasuring and resetting most of the stakes for laying out the pad site grid.
*We dug stone out of two of corners to find the edges of the foundation holes.
*We remeasured and reset corner marking stakes inside those edges.
*We retriangulated with the diagonals to assure the foundation square.
*And we remeasured and reset stakes along all the edges.

So we've rewritten the foundation lay-out plans as they are currently posted. In the current version, we set the stakes at the 3'x3' points to start with so they don't need to be moved. We also emphasized setting them firmly - and safely outside the excavation area.

===Setting the column pad forms===
''Collect equipment and supplies needed''
*Supplies
**16 Pre-built column pad forms
**80 form stakes (we used 2"x2"x18" wooden stakes)
*Equipment
**Heavy Hammer(s)
**4'spirit Level
**Water level
**tape measure
''Steps to place Column Pad forms''
#Use with the center pad site on the upper level as the reference pad.
#Set a pre-built column pad form in place under the string lines with the inside of the forms under the strings.
#Drive two form stakes next to the outside of one side and one on each of the other three sides. They will need to sit deep enough that the tops of the stakes will be level with (or lower than) the top of the form.
#Level the form.
##Screw one of the stakes (on the side with two) to the side of the form so that the form sits 1/2" above the gravel level. Be sure that the top of the stake is level with (or lower than) the top of the form.
##Use the spirit level to set this side of the form level and screw it in position.
##Use the spirit level to set the opposite side of the form at the same level.
##Check the level on the other two sides and screw them in place.
#Use the water level to set the first level on each of the other pads on the upper level.
#Repeat the remainder of the leveling steps for each form.
#Use the water level to set the level of the center form in the lower level at 24" lower than the upper level pads.
#Complete the leveling steps for this form.
#Use the center form on the lower level for a reference form to set and level the remaining lower level column pad forms.

[[File:Setting Column Pad Forms Diagram.png|thumb|600 px|center]]

===Preparing Column Pad Forms for Reinforced Concrete===
Collect equipment and supplies needed
*Supplies
**16 Pre-built column pad rebar assemblies
**64 rebar chairs
*Equipment
**Rake(s)
**shovel
**tape measure
#Use a rake and shovel to remove about 2" of stone from the inside of the form. (until is 6" deep)
#Pack removed stone around outside of forms to create a fully enclosed 6" deep form.
#Use one prebuilt column pad rebar assembly for each column pad site.
#Center the rebar assembly with 3” gap between assembly and form wall on every side.
#Set rebar chairs under corners of prebuilt column pad rebar assemblies.-Put a stone or some gravel under the chairs if needed to center the rebar so it will sit at about the middle of the finished slab (3" off the floor of the form).

[[File:Preparing Column Pad Sites for Concrete Pouring.png|thumb|600 px|center]]

==Concrete Work==
We are preparing to do the big concrete pour. Using the FreeMind mind map model, this is the node that outlines the dependencies so we can be ready for that. Following sections include instructions for accomplishing them.
[[File:Dependencies for Getting Floors Poured.png|thumb|800px|center]]
Here is the planning layout for the concrete - which we are planning to do in one great big pour. We'll let you know how it goes!
[[File:HabLab Concrete Forms Layout.png|800px|center]]

===Insulated Outside Wall Support Slabs===
We are planning to put reinforced concrete the full 3' width of the Column Support Pads all the way around the outside of the building. They will be 3-1/2" (2x4 lumber size) deep and will support the two CEB walls that enclose the hay bale insulation. Rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.

====Preparing the rebar reinforcement assemblies====
Rebar Assembly for 13’ Outside Wall pads (make 11 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’6” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 6’4” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 12’6” by 2’6” dimensions.
#Measure and cut (1) 20’ piece of #4 rebar to 12’7” in length.
#Center the 12’7” piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld it into place.
[[File:Rebar for outside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

Rebar Assembly for 9’6” Outside Wall pads (make 2 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 4’7” from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’6” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 4’7” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 9’ by 2’6” dimensions.
#Measure and cut (1) 20’ piece of #4 rebar to 9’1” in length.
#Center the 9’1” piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld it into place.
[[File:Rebar for 9.5' outside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

Rebar Assembly for 7' Outside Wall pads (make 2 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 3’4” from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’6” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 3’4” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 6’6” by 2’6” dimensions.
#Measure and cut (1) 20’ piece of #4 rebar to 6'7" in length.
#Center the 6'7" piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld it into place.
[[File:Rebar for 7' outside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

====Preparing the concrete forms====
Our pouring plan requires these forms relating to the outside wall construction. For those wall pads that are part of our interior pads, additional forms are in other sections. If you are not pouring large interior pads, you will need to adjust the number of interior forms.

Exterior Forms for 13' Wall slabs. (make 10 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(2) 2"x4"x7' pine studs
*(1) piece of scrap lumber,
*(4) 3" screws
*Driver
''Steps to do:''
#Start two screws into the flat side of each end of the piece of scrap lumber.
#Butt the two 7' boards end to end
#Lay the piece of scrap lumber over the seam butt joint.
#Be sure the narrow sides of the boards are lined up evenly with each other.
#Drive the screws in completely to hold the boards in line.

Interior Forms for 13' Wall slabs. (make 5 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(2) 2"x4"x7' pine studs
*Measuring tape
*Pencil
*Saw
*(4) 3" screws
*Driver
''Steps to do:''
#Measure, mark, and cut one board to be 6' long.
#Start two screws into the flat side of each end of the 1' piece of scrap lumber.
#Butt the 6' piece with the other 7' board end to end
#Lay the piece of scrap lumber over the seam butt joint.
#Be sure the narrow sides of the boards are lined up evenly with each other.
#Drive the screws in completely to hold the boards in line.

Forms for Wall slabs on split-level section

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(6) 2"x4"x7' pine studs
*(4) 2"x4"x10' pine studs
*Measuring tape
*Pencil
*Saw
''Steps to do:''
#Measure, mark, and cut (2) 7' boards to be 6' long.
#Measure, mark, and cut (2) 10' boards to be 9'6" long.
#You will use the other boards uncut.

[[File:Exterior Wall Form Boards.png|thumb|600px|center]]

====Setting the forms====

===Narrow Wall Support Slabs===
We will support and stabilize the interior CEB walls with a 12" wide x 3-1/2" deep concrete slab. Rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.

====Preparing Rebar reinforcement assemblies====
Rebar Assembly for all 12” interior wall slabs

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(10) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 3’4” from one end.
#Bend 180⁰ the rebar with a 3” radius.
#Measure and mark so another 180⁰ with a 3” radius will produce 6’6” long assemblies.
#Cut the extra rebar (about 7’) off, leaving enough to tack weld each assembly together.

#Measure and mark (4) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 4’4” from the end.
#Bend 180⁰ with a 3” radius.
#Measure and mark so another 180⁰ with a 3” radius will produce 8’6” long assemblies.
#Cut the extra rebar off, leaving enough to tack weld each assembly together.

#Measure and mark (4) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” from the end.
#Bend 180⁰ with a 3” radius.
#Measure and mark so another 180⁰ with a 3” radius will produce 12’6” long assemblies.
#Use scrap cuttings (about 7’ long) to bridge the gap for each of these assemblies.
[[File:Rebar for 1' inside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

====Preparing the Concrete Forms====
These 12" wide slabs will provide a firm foundation on which to build our interior CEB room-dividing walls. Mostly they use the same sizes of forms you used for the outside walls. If you are pouring in small stages, you won't have build more forms because you can reuse the ones from the outside wall slabs. If you are going to pour all the concrete at once, you will need 7 more of the 13' inside form assemblies, 4 more uncut 7' boards, 2 more 7' boards cut to 6' lengths, 6 more boards cut to 9'6", and two boards cut to 9' in length.
Instructions for preparing all of these boards are found above - in the [[#Insulated Outside Wall Support Slabs/Preparing the Concrete Forms|Outside Wall Slabs]] section.

====Setting the Forms====

===Kitchen and Bath Areas===
The Kitchen and Bath Floor Areas both have a potential for receiving noticeable amounts of water. We consider it advisable to pave them both with concrete and include a central drain. Rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.
====Preparing the Rebar Assemblies====
Rebar Assembly for 16’x13’ slabs (make 2 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (4) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” from the end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Cut the long ends to 7’10” long.
#Overlap the short ends of two L-shaped pieces and measure to make a U shaped assembly with 12’6” between the legs.
#Make two of these assemblies.
#Overlap the legs of the U-shaped assemblies to make a rectangle measuring 15’6” x 12’6”
#Measure and cut (5) pieces of #4 rebar to 15’7” long.
#Measure and cut (7) pieces of #4 rebar to 12’7” long.
#Space and position the cut pieces into a 24” grid across the rectangle.
#Weld them into place.
[[File:Rebar for 16x13 slab.png|thumb|600px|center]]

There is one more assembly to go into this section between the two big ones. It is a modification of the exterior wall slab reinforcements.

Rebar Assembly for Interior 13’x3’ section of big Slab

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(2) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” #from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’ between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 6’4” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 12’6” by 2’ dimensions.

====Preparing the Concrete forms====
Because we are pouring this all at once, we decided to eliminate some complicated form work by including the equipment area and one room in this slab. This will be a big pour of concrete. It requires about 5 cubic yards of concrete. If you have plenty of time and are working in small batches, you can save over a yard of concrete by building the interior wall forms and pouring only wall-support pads - as shown on the layout.

The large slabs are laid between column pads, using 13' interior form assemblies. If you are pouring all at once, you will need two more of these assemblies, one more board cut to 9'6", and a piece of scrap about 3' long to complete the form work for this area. This, of course, assumes that you already have the exterior forms for the exterior wall slabs prepared. Instructions for preparing all of these are above in the [[#Insulated Outside Wall Support Slabs/Preparing the Concrete Forms|Outside Wall Slabs]]
section.
====Setting the Forms====

===Retaining Wall for Lower Level===
Ideas for this wall have been through several iterations. At present (Oct. 10th), we are planning to lay a 6" footer, 18" wide and 62' long. On top of that, we plan to put a 12" thick wall of bitumen-protected CEB. For the concrete footer, rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.
====Preparing the Rebar Assembly====
Rebar Assembly for Retaining wall footer

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(9) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Scrap #4 rebar to make (1) 6’ pieces and (1) 1’1” piece
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 8’ from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 12” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut (1) 6’ and (1) 1’1” piece of #4 rebar.
#Overlap and weld (1) 20’ length of rebar to each leg.
#Measure and weld the two longer legs together so the resulting assembly is 61’6” long.
#Weld the 6’ piece of rebar between the ends of the two shorter legs so that side is 61’6” long, too.
#Weld (3) 20’ pieces of #4 rebar into an approximately 60’ length of rebar.
#Center the 60’ piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld one end at the center of one end of the rectangle.
#Position the 1’1” piece of rebar across the rectangle to support the free end of the 60’ assembly.
#Weld the short piece to the three long ones.
[[File:Rebar Assembly for Retaining wall.png|thumb|600px|center]]
====Preparing the Concrete Form====
This is a really long form - 62 feet. You don't want to put it together ahead of time and try to carry it anywhere! What you ''do'' want to do is make sure you have all the pieces you will need cut and reserved against the time you will be setting the forms up.

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(8) 2"x6"x16' boards
*(6) Pieces of 2x4 or 2x6 scrap for splicing.
*Measuring tape
*Pencil
*Saw
''Steps to do''
#Measure and mark 18" from the end of (2) 2x6x16' boards
#Cut the two 18" pieces and mark them "form ends".
#Set aside the 6 16' boards, the 14'6" boards, the form ends, and all the scrap pieces in a reserve pile.

====Setting the Concrete Form====

==CEB Columns==

[[http://ww2.unhabitat.org/programmes/housingpolicy/Images/PDF.gif|UN CEB PDF]]

==CEB Arches==

[[http://ww2.unhabitat.org/programmes/housingpolicy/documents/Vault.pdf|UN Vaults PDF]]

[[http://www.amazon.com/Concrete-Hardness-Hammer-HT-225A-Portable/dp/B0049DDJCK/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1317915942&sr=8-6|Hardness Test Hammer]] for quality assurance

==CEB Floors==

[[http://www.velacreations.com/cebfloors.html|CEB Floor Instructions]]

==Insulated Roof==

# 16 11-member 2x6x16' frames
# a layer of tyvek
# a layer of lathe, mounted diagonally about 18" apart
# a layer of hay bales surrounded and around 2x12 spacers
# 16 11-member 2x4x16' frames
# agricultural roof panel on top and sides

Frames are built with one 16' beam on each end of 9 other 16' beams laid on 24" centers. These roof frames can be built quite quickly at any time labor is available, preferably ahead of time so that they can be installed as soon as the columns are ready to be covered.

==Super Insulated Walls==

2.5 foot thick wall.

4x6x12 bricks laid on the 12x4" side in standard wall layup, two walls outside surfaces 2.5' apart.

With air space left on either side, bales are stacked in the center of the wall, creating super insulation between the interior and exterior.

==Heating the HabLab==

I propose a [[http://www.heatkit.com Heatkit]] masonry furnace kit, surrounded by CEB

Hab Lab

2011-10-13T21:16:18Z

Margaret Ida: /* Building Orientation */

The need for all-weather housing to shelter year-round members of the community, located where summers can be unpleasantly hot and winters unpleasantly cold, can be met with superinsulated designs. Here we will examine some possible options and our progress in bring them into existence. Planning tools, instructions, modifications, etc. will be included.

The [[Hab Lab Design Gallery|Design Page]] is a good place to see what has been offered and to post any of your own great ideas. More ideas are great for everybody!

==Survey & Design==
The area on the property for the first group habitation was on a noticeable slope. OSE staff members worked with a home-made water level to take measurements over a 100' square area.

How to make a water level: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nAcT_1T25LM

Ideas submitted for this project are located on the [[Hab Lab Design Gallery]] page.

===Building Orientation===
Oops!
Some of our pads got set 3' South of their intended site. Here is an emergency redesign idea.
[[File:Emergency Remodel HabLab.png|thumb|800px|center]]

==Planning==

===Kitchen/Bath Water===

===Utility/Storage Area===

===Heating===
[[Space_Heating]]
====Source Material====
http://dnr.mo.gov/pubs/pub781.pdf

==Site Preparation==

The Hab Lab is designed to be supported by columns built of CEB (Compressed Earth Block)which are constructed on a reinforced concrete pad. Due to the slope of our site, we designed a lowered section which requires a low retaining wall. Included here are instructions for preparing the site with adequate footings.

Here is a picture with a preliminary excavation layout for the column pad sites and the retaining wall in the Hab Lab.
*When you are laying out the excavation site, be sure to add 5' in each direction for the excavator to work to.

[[File:HabLab Excavation Layout.png|thumb|800 px|center]]
This levels diagram is from our theoretical measurements - we actually wound up with a 2' drop, not a 2'8" drop. That will make only a minor difference in raising the building - changing the size of the retaining wall and removing one or two CEB's at the top of the lower columns to maintain the planned roof pitch.
[[File:Levels Diagram for Hab Lab Site.png|thumb|800 px|center]]

==Foundations & Column Slabs==

===Laying out the Hab Lab excavation site to be square===
''Collect equipment and supplies needed''
*Blueprint of site plan
*(2) 100’ Measuring tapes
*4 3-4’ stakes
*Hammer
*Bright spray paint
''Steps for Staking out the excavation site.''
#Choose a spot approximately 5 feet to the North and 5 feet to the West of the area to be excavated.
#Pound in a stake and spray paint the top foot or two of it.
#Measure due East a distance 10’ longer than the foundation width (total 67’).
#Place and paint another stake.
#Calculate a distance 10’ longer than the foundation length (total 62’).
#Calculate the diagonal measurement of the excavation site [Length(squared) x Width(squared) = Diagonal(squared)] (91'4").
#Measure due South from the Northwest stake the distance calculated in step 6.
#Set the second tape measure on the Northeast stake and measure the diagonal calculated in step 7 going Southwest.
#Set your third stake where the two measured lengths meet each other.
#Paint the stake.
#Measure due South from the Northeast stake the distance calculated in step 6.
#Set the second tape measure on the Northwest stake and measure the diagonal calculated in step 7 going Southeast.
#Set your fouth stake where the two measured lengths meet each other.
#Paint the stake.

*With the site leveled, the foundation holes for the column slabs must be laid out.
*After excavation, the stone fill for the foundation goes into the holes.
*At the same time, the 6" stone floor foundation is spread.

===Concrete forms and rebar reinforcing assemblies===
These can be built well ahead of need whenever volunteers are available.
*You could set up an assembly line effect to do them all at once with several people working together.
*An individual might do one unit at a time.
*An individual might do all the wood cutting at one time, another do all the rebar cutting at another time, another do all the rebar bending at another time.
*A couple of people might work together to get some wooden forms assembled once the pieces are cut, another time, a couple of people might work together to get some rebar assemblies welded.

The following step-by-step instructions are provided for building the forms and the reinforcing rebar assemblies.

[[https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=14oCxZUjs09wGuvaL4QTAII6hRxQpy20TKv7skH3INRWAVlXqtgdrh0D2ggtl&hl=en Assembly sheet for column pad forms]]

[[https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=1_hf2n-l9rCiEss45ZC8ogtMpeQki9fCoYIFdkD5x3lCOwjGh7Gknr-POJrNB&hl=en Rebar plan for column footings]]

===Laying out the locations for the forms on top of the foundation stone===
Once the form and rebar assemblies are built and the foundation stone is in place, the string site plan lay-out must be set up for placing the forms properly over their (now invisible) foundations. If you set your hole locating strings far enough out that the excavation didn't disturb them, this will be simple. It will be even easier if you rolled up your strings before the hole excavation got done and saved them. (See comments below!)

''Collect equipment and supplies needed''
*Blueprint of site plan
*100' tape measure
*Pre-placed marking stakes around outside of foundation site.
*Rolled up pre-used string balls from foundation hole layout
''Steps for Laying out Column Pad Form locations.''
#Measure to check that all pre-placed marking stakes are properly positioned.
#If any are missing or misplaced, replace or reposition them as needed.
#Unroll and retie the strings to their corresponding stakes across the foundation site .

Here's what the layout over the stone should look like.
[[File:HabLab Column Pad Form Layout.png|thumb|600 px|center]]

We had a great plan for this - we would set our stakes out first to mark the hole edges at 4'x4', save the strings and move the stakes in by 6" to 3'x3' for the setting the pad forms.

However, when we tried it in real life - Well...
*We lost a lot of our stakes during the excavation.
*We found the holes tended to come out bigger than we had intended them to be.
*And once the stone was laid over the site, we couldn't see where the foundation holes were located!
We wound up remeasuring and resetting most of the stakes for laying out the pad site grid.
*We dug stone out of two of corners to find the edges of the foundation holes.
*We remeasured and reset corner marking stakes inside those edges.
*We retriangulated with the diagonals to assure the foundation square.
*And we remeasured and reset stakes along all the edges.

So we've rewritten the foundation lay-out plans as they are currently posted. In the current version, we set the stakes at the 3'x3' points to start with so they don't need to be moved. We also emphasized setting them firmly - and safely outside the excavation area.

===Setting the column pad forms===
''Collect equipment and supplies needed''
*Supplies
**16 Pre-built column pad forms
**80 form stakes (we used 2"x2"x18" wooden stakes)
*Equipment
**Heavy Hammer(s)
**4'spirit Level
**Water level
**tape measure
''Steps to place Column Pad forms''
#Use with the center pad site on the upper level as the reference pad.
#Set a pre-built column pad form in place under the string lines with the inside of the forms under the strings.
#Drive two form stakes next to the outside of one side and one on each of the other three sides. They will need to sit deep enough that the tops of the stakes will be level with (or lower than) the top of the form.
#Level the form.
##Screw one of the stakes (on the side with two) to the side of the form so that the form sits 1/2" above the gravel level. Be sure that the top of the stake is level with (or lower than) the top of the form.
##Use the spirit level to set this side of the form level and screw it in position.
##Use the spirit level to set the opposite side of the form at the same level.
##Check the level on the other two sides and screw them in place.
#Use the water level to set the first level on each of the other pads on the upper level.
#Repeat the remainder of the leveling steps for each form.
#Use the water level to set the level of the center form in the lower level at 24" lower than the upper level pads.
#Complete the leveling steps for this form.
#Use the center form on the lower level for a reference form to set and level the remaining lower level column pad forms.

[[File:Setting Column Pad Forms Diagram.png|thumb|600 px|center]]

===Preparing Column Pad Forms for Reinforced Concrete===
Collect equipment and supplies needed
*Supplies
**16 Pre-built column pad rebar assemblies
**64 rebar chairs
*Equipment
**Rake(s)
**shovel
**tape measure
#Use a rake and shovel to remove about 2" of stone from the inside of the form. (until is 6" deep)
#Pack removed stone around outside of forms to create a fully enclosed 6" deep form.
#Use one prebuilt column pad rebar assembly for each column pad site.
#Center the rebar assembly with 3” gap between assembly and form wall on every side.
#Set rebar chairs under corners of prebuilt column pad rebar assemblies.-Put a stone or some gravel under the chairs if needed to center the rebar so it will sit at about the middle of the finished slab (3" off the floor of the form).

[[File:Preparing Column Pad Sites for Concrete Pouring.png|thumb|600 px|center]]

==Concrete Work==
We are preparing to do the big concrete pour. Using the FreeMind mind map model, this is the node that outlines the dependencies so we can be ready for that. Following sections include instructions for accomplishing them.
[[File:Dependencies for Getting Floors Poured.png|thumb|800px|center]]
Here is the planning layout for the concrete - which we are planning to do in one great big pour. We'll let you know how it goes!
[[File:HabLab Concrete Forms Layout.png|800px|center]]

===Insulated Outside Wall Support Slabs===
We are planning to put reinforced concrete the full 3' width of the Column Support Pads all the way around the outside of the building. They will be 3-1/2" (2x4 lumber size) deep and will support the two CEB walls that enclose the hay bale insulation. Rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.

====Preparing the rebar reinforcement assemblies====
Rebar Assembly for 13’ Outside Wall pads (make 11 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’6” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 6’4” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 12’6” by 2’6” dimensions.
#Measure and cut (1) 20’ piece of #4 rebar to 12’7” in length.
#Center the 12’7” piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld it into place.
[[File:Rebar for outside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

Rebar Assembly for 9’6” Outside Wall pads (make 2 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 4’7” from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’6” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 4’7” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 9’ by 2’6” dimensions.
#Measure and cut (1) 20’ piece of #4 rebar to 9’1” in length.
#Center the 9’1” piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld it into place.
[[File:Rebar for 9.5' outside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

Rebar Assembly for 7' Outside Wall pads (make 2 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 3’4” from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’6” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 3’4” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 6’6” by 2’6” dimensions.
#Measure and cut (1) 20’ piece of #4 rebar to 6'7" in length.
#Center the 6'7" piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld it into place.
[[File:Rebar for 7' outside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

====Preparing the concrete forms====
Our pouring plan requires these forms relating to the outside wall construction. For those wall pads that are part of our interior pads, additional forms are in other sections. If you are not pouring large interior pads, you will need to adjust the number of interior forms.

Exterior Forms for 13' Wall slabs. (make 10 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(2) 2"x4"x7' pine studs
*(1) piece of scrap lumber,
*(4) 3" screws
*Driver
''Steps to do:''
#Start two screws into the flat side of each end of the piece of scrap lumber.
#Butt the two 7' boards end to end
#Lay the piece of scrap lumber over the seam butt joint.
#Be sure the narrow sides of the boards are lined up evenly with each other.
#Drive the screws in completely to hold the boards in line.

Interior Forms for 13' Wall slabs. (make 5 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(2) 2"x4"x7' pine studs
*Measuring tape
*Pencil
*Saw
*(4) 3" screws
*Driver
''Steps to do:''
#Measure, mark, and cut one board to be 6' long.
#Start two screws into the flat side of each end of the 1' piece of scrap lumber.
#Butt the 6' piece with the other 7' board end to end
#Lay the piece of scrap lumber over the seam butt joint.
#Be sure the narrow sides of the boards are lined up evenly with each other.
#Drive the screws in completely to hold the boards in line.

Forms for Wall slabs on split-level section

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(6) 2"x4"x7' pine studs
*(4) 2"x4"x10' pine studs
*Measuring tape
*Pencil
*Saw
''Steps to do:''
#Measure, mark, and cut (2) 7' boards to be 6' long.
#Measure, mark, and cut (2) 10' boards to be 9'6" long.
#You will use the other boards uncut.

[[File:Exterior Wall Form Boards.png|thumb|600px|center]]

====Setting the forms====

===Narrow Wall Support Slabs===
We will support and stabilize the interior CEB walls with a 12" wide x 3-1/2" deep concrete slab. Rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.

====Preparing Rebar reinforcement assemblies====
Rebar Assembly for all 12” interior wall slabs

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(10) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 3’4” from one end.
#Bend 180⁰ the rebar with a 3” radius.
#Measure and mark so another 180⁰ with a 3” radius will produce 6’6” long assemblies.
#Cut the extra rebar (about 7’) off, leaving enough to tack weld each assembly together.

#Measure and mark (4) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 4’4” from the end.
#Bend 180⁰ with a 3” radius.
#Measure and mark so another 180⁰ with a 3” radius will produce 8’6” long assemblies.
#Cut the extra rebar off, leaving enough to tack weld each assembly together.

#Measure and mark (4) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” from the end.
#Bend 180⁰ with a 3” radius.
#Measure and mark so another 180⁰ with a 3” radius will produce 12’6” long assemblies.
#Use scrap cuttings (about 7’ long) to bridge the gap for each of these assemblies.
[[File:Rebar for 1' inside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

====Preparing the Concrete Forms====
These 12" wide slabs will provide a firm foundation on which to build our interior CEB room-dividing walls. Mostly they use the same sizes of forms you used for the outside walls. If you are pouring in small stages, you won't have build more forms because you can reuse the ones from the outside wall slabs. If you are going to pour all the concrete at once, you will need 7 more of the 13' inside form assemblies, 4 more uncut 7' boards, 2 more 7' boards cut to 6' lengths, 6 more boards cut to 9'6", and two boards cut to 9' in length.
Instructions for preparing all of these boards are found above - in the [[#Insulated Outside Wall Support Slabs/Preparing the Concrete Forms|Outside Wall Slabs]] section.

====Setting the Forms====

===Kitchen and Bath Areas===
The Kitchen and Bath Floor Areas both have a potential for receiving noticeable amounts of water. We consider it advisable to pave them both with concrete and include a central drain. Rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.
====Preparing the Rebar Assemblies====
Rebar Assembly for 16’x13’ slabs (make 2 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (4) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” from the end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Cut the long ends to 7’10” long.
#Overlap the short ends of two L-shaped pieces and measure to make a U shaped assembly with 12’6” between the legs.
#Make two of these assemblies.
#Overlap the legs of the U-shaped assemblies to make a rectangle measuring 15’6” x 12’6”
#Measure and cut (5) pieces of #4 rebar to 15’7” long.
#Measure and cut (7) pieces of #4 rebar to 12’7” long.
#Space and position the cut pieces into a 24” grid across the rectangle.
#Weld them into place.
[[File:Rebar for 16x13 slab.png|thumb|600px|center]]

====Preparing the Concrete forms====
Because we are pouring this all at once, we decided to eliminate some complicated form work by including the equipment area and one room in this slab. This will be a big pour of concrete. It requires about 5 cubic yards of concrete. If you have plenty of time and are working in small batches, you can save over a yard of concrete by building the interior wall forms and pouring only wall-support pads - as shown on the layout.

The large slabs are laid between column pads, using 13' interior form assemblies. If you are pouring all at once, you will need two more of these assemblies, one more board cut to 9'6", and a piece of scrap about 3' long to complete the form work for this area. This, of course, assumes that you already have the exterior forms for the exterior wall slabs prepared. Instructions for preparing all of these are above in the [[#Insulated Outside Wall Support Slabs/Preparing the Concrete Forms|Outside Wall Slabs]]
section.
====Setting the Forms====

===Retaining Wall for Lower Level===
Ideas for this wall have been through several iterations. At present (Oct. 10th), we are planning to lay a 6" footer, 18" wide and 62' long. On top of that, we plan to put a 12" thick wall of bitumen-protected CEB. For the concrete footer, rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.
====Preparing the Rebar Assembly====
Rebar Assembly for Retaining wall footer

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(9) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Scrap #4 rebar to make (1) 6’ pieces and (1) 1’1” piece
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 8’ from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 12” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut (1) 6’ and (1) 1’1” piece of #4 rebar.
#Overlap and weld (1) 20’ length of rebar to each leg.
#Measure and weld the two longer legs together so the resulting assembly is 61’6” long.
#Weld the 6’ piece of rebar between the ends of the two shorter legs so that side is 61’6” long, too.
#Weld (3) 20’ pieces of #4 rebar into an approximately 60’ length of rebar.
#Center the 60’ piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld one end at the center of one end of the rectangle.
#Position the 1’1” piece of rebar across the rectangle to support the free end of the 60’ assembly.
#Weld the short piece to the three long ones.
[[File:Rebar Assembly for Retaining wall.png|thumb|600px|center]]
====Preparing the Concrete Form====
This is a really long form - 62 feet. You don't want to put it together ahead of time and try to carry it anywhere! What you ''do'' want to do is make sure you have all the pieces you will need cut and reserved against the time you will be setting the forms up.

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(8) 2"x6"x16' boards
*(6) Pieces of 2x4 or 2x6 scrap for splicing.
*Measuring tape
*Pencil
*Saw
''Steps to do''
#Measure and mark 18" from the end of (2) 2x6x16' boards
#Cut the two 18" pieces and mark them "form ends".
#Set aside the 6 16' boards, the 14'6" boards, the form ends, and all the scrap pieces in a reserve pile.

====Setting the Concrete Form====

==CEB Columns==

[[http://ww2.unhabitat.org/programmes/housingpolicy/Images/PDF.gif|UN CEB PDF]]

==CEB Arches==

[[http://ww2.unhabitat.org/programmes/housingpolicy/documents/Vault.pdf|UN Vaults PDF]]

[[http://www.amazon.com/Concrete-Hardness-Hammer-HT-225A-Portable/dp/B0049DDJCK/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1317915942&sr=8-6|Hardness Test Hammer]] for quality assurance

==CEB Floors==

[[http://www.velacreations.com/cebfloors.html|CEB Floor Instructions]]

==Insulated Roof==

# 16 11-member 2x6x16' frames
# a layer of tyvek
# a layer of lathe, mounted diagonally about 18" apart
# a layer of hay bales surrounded and around 2x12 spacers
# 16 11-member 2x4x16' frames
# agricultural roof panel on top and sides

Frames are built with one 16' beam on each end of 9 other 16' beams laid on 24" centers. These roof frames can be built quite quickly at any time labor is available, preferably ahead of time so that they can be installed as soon as the columns are ready to be covered.

==Super Insulated Walls==

2.5 foot thick wall.

4x6x12 bricks laid on the 12x4" side in standard wall layup, two walls outside surfaces 2.5' apart.

With air space left on either side, bales are stacked in the center of the wall, creating super insulation between the interior and exterior.

==Heating the HabLab==

I propose a [[http://www.heatkit.com Heatkit]] masonry furnace kit, surrounded by CEB

File:Emergency Remodel HabLab.png

2011-10-13T21:14:00Z

Margaret Ida:

Hab Lab

2011-10-13T21:12:13Z

Margaret Ida: /* Building Orientation */

The need for all-weather housing to shelter year-round members of the community, located where summers can be unpleasantly hot and winters unpleasantly cold, can be met with superinsulated designs. Here we will examine some possible options and our progress in bring them into existence. Planning tools, instructions, modifications, etc. will be included.

The [[Hab Lab Design Gallery|Design Page]] is a good place to see what has been offered and to post any of your own great ideas. More ideas are great for everybody!

==Survey & Design==
The area on the property for the first group habitation was on a noticeable slope. OSE staff members worked with a home-made water level to take measurements over a 100' square area.

How to make a water level: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nAcT_1T25LM

Ideas submitted for this project are located on the [[Hab Lab Design Gallery]] page.

===Building Orientation===
Oops!
Some of our pads got set 3' South of their intended site. Here is an emergency redesign idea.

==Planning==

===Kitchen/Bath Water===

===Utility/Storage Area===

===Heating===
[[Space_Heating]]
====Source Material====
http://dnr.mo.gov/pubs/pub781.pdf

==Site Preparation==

The Hab Lab is designed to be supported by columns built of CEB (Compressed Earth Block)which are constructed on a reinforced concrete pad. Due to the slope of our site, we designed a lowered section which requires a low retaining wall. Included here are instructions for preparing the site with adequate footings.

Here is a picture with a preliminary excavation layout for the column pad sites and the retaining wall in the Hab Lab.
*When you are laying out the excavation site, be sure to add 5' in each direction for the excavator to work to.

[[File:HabLab Excavation Layout.png|thumb|800 px|center]]
This levels diagram is from our theoretical measurements - we actually wound up with a 2' drop, not a 2'8" drop. That will make only a minor difference in raising the building - changing the size of the retaining wall and removing one or two CEB's at the top of the lower columns to maintain the planned roof pitch.
[[File:Levels Diagram for Hab Lab Site.png|thumb|800 px|center]]

==Foundations & Column Slabs==

===Laying out the Hab Lab excavation site to be square===
''Collect equipment and supplies needed''
*Blueprint of site plan
*(2) 100’ Measuring tapes
*4 3-4’ stakes
*Hammer
*Bright spray paint
''Steps for Staking out the excavation site.''
#Choose a spot approximately 5 feet to the North and 5 feet to the West of the area to be excavated.
#Pound in a stake and spray paint the top foot or two of it.
#Measure due East a distance 10’ longer than the foundation width (total 67’).
#Place and paint another stake.
#Calculate a distance 10’ longer than the foundation length (total 62’).
#Calculate the diagonal measurement of the excavation site [Length(squared) x Width(squared) = Diagonal(squared)] (91'4").
#Measure due South from the Northwest stake the distance calculated in step 6.
#Set the second tape measure on the Northeast stake and measure the diagonal calculated in step 7 going Southwest.
#Set your third stake where the two measured lengths meet each other.
#Paint the stake.
#Measure due South from the Northeast stake the distance calculated in step 6.
#Set the second tape measure on the Northwest stake and measure the diagonal calculated in step 7 going Southeast.
#Set your fouth stake where the two measured lengths meet each other.
#Paint the stake.

*With the site leveled, the foundation holes for the column slabs must be laid out.
*After excavation, the stone fill for the foundation goes into the holes.
*At the same time, the 6" stone floor foundation is spread.

===Concrete forms and rebar reinforcing assemblies===
These can be built well ahead of need whenever volunteers are available.
*You could set up an assembly line effect to do them all at once with several people working together.
*An individual might do one unit at a time.
*An individual might do all the wood cutting at one time, another do all the rebar cutting at another time, another do all the rebar bending at another time.
*A couple of people might work together to get some wooden forms assembled once the pieces are cut, another time, a couple of people might work together to get some rebar assemblies welded.

The following step-by-step instructions are provided for building the forms and the reinforcing rebar assemblies.

[[https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=14oCxZUjs09wGuvaL4QTAII6hRxQpy20TKv7skH3INRWAVlXqtgdrh0D2ggtl&hl=en Assembly sheet for column pad forms]]

[[https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=1_hf2n-l9rCiEss45ZC8ogtMpeQki9fCoYIFdkD5x3lCOwjGh7Gknr-POJrNB&hl=en Rebar plan for column footings]]

===Laying out the locations for the forms on top of the foundation stone===
Once the form and rebar assemblies are built and the foundation stone is in place, the string site plan lay-out must be set up for placing the forms properly over their (now invisible) foundations. If you set your hole locating strings far enough out that the excavation didn't disturb them, this will be simple. It will be even easier if you rolled up your strings before the hole excavation got done and saved them. (See comments below!)

''Collect equipment and supplies needed''
*Blueprint of site plan
*100' tape measure
*Pre-placed marking stakes around outside of foundation site.
*Rolled up pre-used string balls from foundation hole layout
''Steps for Laying out Column Pad Form locations.''
#Measure to check that all pre-placed marking stakes are properly positioned.
#If any are missing or misplaced, replace or reposition them as needed.
#Unroll and retie the strings to their corresponding stakes across the foundation site .

Here's what the layout over the stone should look like.
[[File:HabLab Column Pad Form Layout.png|thumb|600 px|center]]

We had a great plan for this - we would set our stakes out first to mark the hole edges at 4'x4', save the strings and move the stakes in by 6" to 3'x3' for the setting the pad forms.

However, when we tried it in real life - Well...
*We lost a lot of our stakes during the excavation.
*We found the holes tended to come out bigger than we had intended them to be.
*And once the stone was laid over the site, we couldn't see where the foundation holes were located!
We wound up remeasuring and resetting most of the stakes for laying out the pad site grid.
*We dug stone out of two of corners to find the edges of the foundation holes.
*We remeasured and reset corner marking stakes inside those edges.
*We retriangulated with the diagonals to assure the foundation square.
*And we remeasured and reset stakes along all the edges.

So we've rewritten the foundation lay-out plans as they are currently posted. In the current version, we set the stakes at the 3'x3' points to start with so they don't need to be moved. We also emphasized setting them firmly - and safely outside the excavation area.

===Setting the column pad forms===
''Collect equipment and supplies needed''
*Supplies
**16 Pre-built column pad forms
**80 form stakes (we used 2"x2"x18" wooden stakes)
*Equipment
**Heavy Hammer(s)
**4'spirit Level
**Water level
**tape measure
''Steps to place Column Pad forms''
#Use with the center pad site on the upper level as the reference pad.
#Set a pre-built column pad form in place under the string lines with the inside of the forms under the strings.
#Drive two form stakes next to the outside of one side and one on each of the other three sides. They will need to sit deep enough that the tops of the stakes will be level with (or lower than) the top of the form.
#Level the form.
##Screw one of the stakes (on the side with two) to the side of the form so that the form sits 1/2" above the gravel level. Be sure that the top of the stake is level with (or lower than) the top of the form.
##Use the spirit level to set this side of the form level and screw it in position.
##Use the spirit level to set the opposite side of the form at the same level.
##Check the level on the other two sides and screw them in place.
#Use the water level to set the first level on each of the other pads on the upper level.
#Repeat the remainder of the leveling steps for each form.
#Use the water level to set the level of the center form in the lower level at 24" lower than the upper level pads.
#Complete the leveling steps for this form.
#Use the center form on the lower level for a reference form to set and level the remaining lower level column pad forms.

[[File:Setting Column Pad Forms Diagram.png|thumb|600 px|center]]

===Preparing Column Pad Forms for Reinforced Concrete===
Collect equipment and supplies needed
*Supplies
**16 Pre-built column pad rebar assemblies
**64 rebar chairs
*Equipment
**Rake(s)
**shovel
**tape measure
#Use a rake and shovel to remove about 2" of stone from the inside of the form. (until is 6" deep)
#Pack removed stone around outside of forms to create a fully enclosed 6" deep form.
#Use one prebuilt column pad rebar assembly for each column pad site.
#Center the rebar assembly with 3” gap between assembly and form wall on every side.
#Set rebar chairs under corners of prebuilt column pad rebar assemblies.-Put a stone or some gravel under the chairs if needed to center the rebar so it will sit at about the middle of the finished slab (3" off the floor of the form).

[[File:Preparing Column Pad Sites for Concrete Pouring.png|thumb|600 px|center]]

==Concrete Work==
We are preparing to do the big concrete pour. Using the FreeMind mind map model, this is the node that outlines the dependencies so we can be ready for that. Following sections include instructions for accomplishing them.
[[File:Dependencies for Getting Floors Poured.png|thumb|800px|center]]
Here is the planning layout for the concrete - which we are planning to do in one great big pour. We'll let you know how it goes!
[[File:HabLab Concrete Forms Layout.png|800px|center]]

===Insulated Outside Wall Support Slabs===
We are planning to put reinforced concrete the full 3' width of the Column Support Pads all the way around the outside of the building. They will be 3-1/2" (2x4 lumber size) deep and will support the two CEB walls that enclose the hay bale insulation. Rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.

====Preparing the rebar reinforcement assemblies====
Rebar Assembly for 13’ Outside Wall pads (make 11 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’6” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 6’4” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 12’6” by 2’6” dimensions.
#Measure and cut (1) 20’ piece of #4 rebar to 12’7” in length.
#Center the 12’7” piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld it into place.
[[File:Rebar for outside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

Rebar Assembly for 9’6” Outside Wall pads (make 2 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 4’7” from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’6” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 4’7” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 9’ by 2’6” dimensions.
#Measure and cut (1) 20’ piece of #4 rebar to 9’1” in length.
#Center the 9’1” piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld it into place.
[[File:Rebar for 9.5' outside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

Rebar Assembly for 7' Outside Wall pads (make 2 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 3’4” from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’6” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 3’4” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 6’6” by 2’6” dimensions.
#Measure and cut (1) 20’ piece of #4 rebar to 6'7" in length.
#Center the 6'7" piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld it into place.
[[File:Rebar for 7' outside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

====Preparing the concrete forms====
Our pouring plan requires these forms relating to the outside wall construction. For those wall pads that are part of our interior pads, additional forms are in other sections. If you are not pouring large interior pads, you will need to adjust the number of interior forms.

Exterior Forms for 13' Wall slabs. (make 10 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(2) 2"x4"x7' pine studs
*(1) piece of scrap lumber,
*(4) 3" screws
*Driver
''Steps to do:''
#Start two screws into the flat side of each end of the piece of scrap lumber.
#Butt the two 7' boards end to end
#Lay the piece of scrap lumber over the seam butt joint.
#Be sure the narrow sides of the boards are lined up evenly with each other.
#Drive the screws in completely to hold the boards in line.

Interior Forms for 13' Wall slabs. (make 5 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(2) 2"x4"x7' pine studs
*Measuring tape
*Pencil
*Saw
*(4) 3" screws
*Driver
''Steps to do:''
#Measure, mark, and cut one board to be 6' long.
#Start two screws into the flat side of each end of the 1' piece of scrap lumber.
#Butt the 6' piece with the other 7' board end to end
#Lay the piece of scrap lumber over the seam butt joint.
#Be sure the narrow sides of the boards are lined up evenly with each other.
#Drive the screws in completely to hold the boards in line.

Forms for Wall slabs on split-level section

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(6) 2"x4"x7' pine studs
*(4) 2"x4"x10' pine studs
*Measuring tape
*Pencil
*Saw
''Steps to do:''
#Measure, mark, and cut (2) 7' boards to be 6' long.
#Measure, mark, and cut (2) 10' boards to be 9'6" long.
#You will use the other boards uncut.

[[File:Exterior Wall Form Boards.png|thumb|600px|center]]

====Setting the forms====

===Narrow Wall Support Slabs===
We will support and stabilize the interior CEB walls with a 12" wide x 3-1/2" deep concrete slab. Rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.

====Preparing Rebar reinforcement assemblies====
Rebar Assembly for all 12” interior wall slabs

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(10) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 3’4” from one end.
#Bend 180⁰ the rebar with a 3” radius.
#Measure and mark so another 180⁰ with a 3” radius will produce 6’6” long assemblies.
#Cut the extra rebar (about 7’) off, leaving enough to tack weld each assembly together.

#Measure and mark (4) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 4’4” from the end.
#Bend 180⁰ with a 3” radius.
#Measure and mark so another 180⁰ with a 3” radius will produce 8’6” long assemblies.
#Cut the extra rebar off, leaving enough to tack weld each assembly together.

#Measure and mark (4) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” from the end.
#Bend 180⁰ with a 3” radius.
#Measure and mark so another 180⁰ with a 3” radius will produce 12’6” long assemblies.
#Use scrap cuttings (about 7’ long) to bridge the gap for each of these assemblies.
[[File:Rebar for 1' inside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

====Preparing the Concrete Forms====
These 12" wide slabs will provide a firm foundation on which to build our interior CEB room-dividing walls. Mostly they use the same sizes of forms you used for the outside walls. If you are pouring in small stages, you won't have build more forms because you can reuse the ones from the outside wall slabs. If you are going to pour all the concrete at once, you will need 7 more of the 13' inside form assemblies, 4 more uncut 7' boards, 2 more 7' boards cut to 6' lengths, 6 more boards cut to 9'6", and two boards cut to 9' in length.
Instructions for preparing all of these boards are found above - in the [[#Insulated Outside Wall Support Slabs/Preparing the Concrete Forms|Outside Wall Slabs]] section.

====Setting the Forms====

===Kitchen and Bath Areas===
The Kitchen and Bath Floor Areas both have a potential for receiving noticeable amounts of water. We consider it advisable to pave them both with concrete and include a central drain. Rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.
====Preparing the Rebar Assemblies====
Rebar Assembly for 16’x13’ slabs (make 2 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (4) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” from the end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Cut the long ends to 7’10” long.
#Overlap the short ends of two L-shaped pieces and measure to make a U shaped assembly with 12’6” between the legs.
#Make two of these assemblies.
#Overlap the legs of the U-shaped assemblies to make a rectangle measuring 15’6” x 12’6”
#Measure and cut (5) pieces of #4 rebar to 15’7” long.
#Measure and cut (7) pieces of #4 rebar to 12’7” long.
#Space and position the cut pieces into a 24” grid across the rectangle.
#Weld them into place.
[[File:Rebar for 16x13 slab.png|thumb|600px|center]]

====Preparing the Concrete forms====
Because we are pouring this all at once, we decided to eliminate some complicated form work by including the equipment area and one room in this slab. This will be a big pour of concrete. It requires about 5 cubic yards of concrete. If you have plenty of time and are working in small batches, you can save over a yard of concrete by building the interior wall forms and pouring only wall-support pads - as shown on the layout.

The large slabs are laid between column pads, using 13' interior form assemblies. If you are pouring all at once, you will need two more of these assemblies, one more board cut to 9'6", and a piece of scrap about 3' long to complete the form work for this area. This, of course, assumes that you already have the exterior forms for the exterior wall slabs prepared. Instructions for preparing all of these are above in the [[#Insulated Outside Wall Support Slabs/Preparing the Concrete Forms|Outside Wall Slabs]]
section.
====Setting the Forms====

===Retaining Wall for Lower Level===
Ideas for this wall have been through several iterations. At present (Oct. 10th), we are planning to lay a 6" footer, 18" wide and 62' long. On top of that, we plan to put a 12" thick wall of bitumen-protected CEB. For the concrete footer, rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.
====Preparing the Rebar Assembly====
Rebar Assembly for Retaining wall footer

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(9) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Scrap #4 rebar to make (1) 6’ pieces and (1) 1’1” piece
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 8’ from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 12” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut (1) 6’ and (1) 1’1” piece of #4 rebar.
#Overlap and weld (1) 20’ length of rebar to each leg.
#Measure and weld the two longer legs together so the resulting assembly is 61’6” long.
#Weld the 6’ piece of rebar between the ends of the two shorter legs so that side is 61’6” long, too.
#Weld (3) 20’ pieces of #4 rebar into an approximately 60’ length of rebar.
#Center the 60’ piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld one end at the center of one end of the rectangle.
#Position the 1’1” piece of rebar across the rectangle to support the free end of the 60’ assembly.
#Weld the short piece to the three long ones.
[[File:Rebar Assembly for Retaining wall.png|thumb|600px|center]]
====Preparing the Concrete Form====
This is a really long form - 62 feet. You don't want to put it together ahead of time and try to carry it anywhere! What you ''do'' want to do is make sure you have all the pieces you will need cut and reserved against the time you will be setting the forms up.

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(8) 2"x6"x16' boards
*(6) Pieces of 2x4 or 2x6 scrap for splicing.
*Measuring tape
*Pencil
*Saw
''Steps to do''
#Measure and mark 18" from the end of (2) 2x6x16' boards
#Cut the two 18" pieces and mark them "form ends".
#Set aside the 6 16' boards, the 14'6" boards, the form ends, and all the scrap pieces in a reserve pile.

====Setting the Concrete Form====

==CEB Columns==

[[http://ww2.unhabitat.org/programmes/housingpolicy/Images/PDF.gif|UN CEB PDF]]

==CEB Arches==

[[http://ww2.unhabitat.org/programmes/housingpolicy/documents/Vault.pdf|UN Vaults PDF]]

[[http://www.amazon.com/Concrete-Hardness-Hammer-HT-225A-Portable/dp/B0049DDJCK/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1317915942&sr=8-6|Hardness Test Hammer]] for quality assurance

==CEB Floors==

[[http://www.velacreations.com/cebfloors.html|CEB Floor Instructions]]

==Insulated Roof==

# 16 11-member 2x6x16' frames
# a layer of tyvek
# a layer of lathe, mounted diagonally about 18" apart
# a layer of hay bales surrounded and around 2x12 spacers
# 16 11-member 2x4x16' frames
# agricultural roof panel on top and sides

Frames are built with one 16' beam on each end of 9 other 16' beams laid on 24" centers. These roof frames can be built quite quickly at any time labor is available, preferably ahead of time so that they can be installed as soon as the columns are ready to be covered.

==Super Insulated Walls==

2.5 foot thick wall.

4x6x12 bricks laid on the 12x4" side in standard wall layup, two walls outside surfaces 2.5' apart.

With air space left on either side, bales are stacked in the center of the wall, creating super insulation between the interior and exterior.

==Heating the HabLab==

I propose a [[http://www.heatkit.com Heatkit]] masonry furnace kit, surrounded by CEB

Hab Lab

2011-10-11T16:30:53Z

Margaret Ida: /* Concrete Work */

The need for all-weather housing to shelter year-round members of the community, located where summers can be unpleasantly hot and winters unpleasantly cold, can be met with superinsulated designs. Here we will examine some possible options and our progress in bring them into existence. Planning tools, instructions, modifications, etc. will be included.

The [[Hab Lab Design Gallery|Design Page]] is a good place to see what has been offered and to post any of your own great ideas. More ideas are great for everybody!

==Survey & Design==
The area on the property for the first group habitation was on a noticeable slope. OSE staff members worked with a home-made water level to take measurements over a 100' square area.

How to make a water level: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nAcT_1T25LM

Ideas submitted for this project are located on the [[Hab Lab Design Gallery]] page.

===Building Orientation===

==Planning==

===Kitchen/Bath Water===

===Utility/Storage Area===

===Heating===
====Source Material====
http://dnr.mo.gov/pubs/pub781.pdf

==Site Preparation==

The Hab Lab is designed to be supported by columns built of CEB (Compressed Earth Block)which are constructed on a reinforced concrete pad. Due to the slope of our site, we designed a lowered section which requires a low retaining wall. Included here are instructions for preparing the site with adequate footings.

Here is a picture with a preliminary excavation layout for the column pad sites and the retaining wall in the Hab Lab.
*When you are laying out the excavation site, be sure to add 5' in each direction for the excavator to work to.

[[File:HabLab Excavation Layout.png|thumb|800 px|center]]
This levels diagram is from our theoretical measurements - we actually wound up with a 2' drop, not a 2'8" drop. That will make only a minor difference in raising the building - changing the size of the retaining wall and removing one or two CEB's at the top of the lower columns to maintain the planned roof pitch.
[[File:Levels Diagram for Hab Lab Site.png|thumb|800 px|center]]

==Foundations & Column Slabs==

===Laying out the Hab Lab excavation site to be square===
''Collect equipment and supplies needed''
*Blueprint of site plan
*(2) 100’ Measuring tapes
*4 3-4’ stakes
*Hammer
*Bright spray paint
''Steps for Staking out the excavation site.''
#Choose a spot approximately 5 feet to the North and 5 feet to the West of the area to be excavated.
#Pound in a stake and spray paint the top foot or two of it.
#Measure due East a distance 10’ longer than the foundation width (total 67’).
#Place and paint another stake.
#Calculate a distance 10’ longer than the foundation length (total 62’).
#Calculate the diagonal measurement of the excavation site [Length(squared) x Width(squared) = Diagonal(squared)] (91'4").
#Measure due South from the Northwest stake the distance calculated in step 6.
#Set the second tape measure on the Northeast stake and measure the diagonal calculated in step 7 going Southwest.
#Set your third stake where the two measured lengths meet each other.
#Paint the stake.
#Measure due South from the Northeast stake the distance calculated in step 6.
#Set the second tape measure on the Northwest stake and measure the diagonal calculated in step 7 going Southeast.
#Set your fouth stake where the two measured lengths meet each other.
#Paint the stake.

*With the site leveled, the foundation holes for the column slabs must be laid out.
*After excavation, the stone fill for the foundation goes into the holes.
*At the same time, the 6" stone floor foundation is spread.

===Concrete forms and rebar reinforcing assemblies===
These can be built well ahead of need whenever volunteers are available.
*You could set up an assembly line effect to do them all at once with several people working together.
*An individual might do one unit at a time.
*An individual might do all the wood cutting at one time, another do all the rebar cutting at another time, another do all the rebar bending at another time.
*A couple of people might work together to get some wooden forms assembled once the pieces are cut, another time, a couple of people might work together to get some rebar assemblies welded.

The following step-by-step instructions are provided for building the forms and the reinforcing rebar assemblies.

[[https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=14oCxZUjs09wGuvaL4QTAII6hRxQpy20TKv7skH3INRWAVlXqtgdrh0D2ggtl&hl=en Assembly sheet for column pad forms]]

[[https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=1_hf2n-l9rCiEss45ZC8ogtMpeQki9fCoYIFdkD5x3lCOwjGh7Gknr-POJrNB&hl=en Rebar plan for column footings]]

===Laying out the locations for the forms on top of the foundation stone===
Once the form and rebar assemblies are built and the foundation stone is in place, the string site plan lay-out must be set up for placing the forms properly over their (now invisible) foundations. If you set your hole locating strings far enough out that the excavation didn't disturb them, this will be simple. It will be even easier if you rolled up your strings before the hole excavation got done and saved them. (See comments below!)

''Collect equipment and supplies needed''
*Blueprint of site plan
*100' tape measure
*Pre-placed marking stakes around outside of foundation site.
*Rolled up pre-used string balls from foundation hole layout
''Steps for Laying out Column Pad Form locations.''
#Measure to check that all pre-placed marking stakes are properly positioned.
#If any are missing or misplaced, replace or reposition them as needed.
#Unroll and retie the strings to their corresponding stakes across the foundation site .

Here's what the layout over the stone should look like.
[[File:HabLab Column Pad Form Layout.png|thumb|600 px|center]]

We had a great plan for this - we would set our stakes out first to mark the hole edges at 4'x4', save the strings and move the stakes in by 6" to 3'x3' for the setting the pad forms.

However, when we tried it in real life - Well...
*We lost a lot of our stakes during the excavation.
*We found the holes tended to come out bigger than we had intended them to be.
*And once the stone was laid over the site, we couldn't see where the foundation holes were located!
We wound up remeasuring and resetting most of the stakes for laying out the pad site grid.
*We dug stone out of two of corners to find the edges of the foundation holes.
*We remeasured and reset corner marking stakes inside those edges.
*We retriangulated with the diagonals to assure the foundation square.
*And we remeasured and reset stakes along all the edges.

So we've rewritten the foundation lay-out plans as they are currently posted. In the current version, we set the stakes at the 3'x3' points to start with so they don't need to be moved. We also emphasized setting them firmly - and safely outside the excavation area.

===Setting the column pad forms===
''Collect equipment and supplies needed''
*Supplies
**16 Pre-built column pad forms
**80 form stakes (we used 2"x2"x18" wooden stakes)
*Equipment
**Heavy Hammer(s)
**4'spirit Level
**Water level
**tape measure
''Steps to place Column Pad forms''
#Use with the center pad site on the upper level as the reference pad.
#Set a pre-built column pad form in place under the string lines with the inside of the forms under the strings.
#Drive two form stakes next to the outside of one side and one on each of the other three sides. They will need to sit deep enough that the tops of the stakes will be level with (or lower than) the top of the form.
#Level the form.
##Screw one of the stakes (on the side with two) to the side of the form so that the form sits 1/2" above the gravel level. Be sure that the top of the stake is level with (or lower than) the top of the form.
##Use the spirit level to set this side of the form level and screw it in position.
##Use the spirit level to set the opposite side of the form at the same level.
##Check the level on the other two sides and screw them in place.
#Use the water level to set the first level on each of the other pads on the upper level.
#Repeat the remainder of the leveling steps for each form.
#Use the water level to set the level of the center form in the lower level at 24" lower than the upper level pads.
#Complete the leveling steps for this form.
#Use the center form on the lower level for a reference form to set and level the remaining lower level column pad forms.

[[File:Setting Column Pad Forms Diagram.png|thumb|600 px|center]]

===Preparing Column Pad Forms for Reinforced Concrete===
Collect equipment and supplies needed
*Supplies
**16 Pre-built column pad rebar assemblies
**64 rebar chairs
*Equipment
**Rake(s)
**shovel
**tape measure
#Use a rake and shovel to remove about 2" of stone from the inside of the form. (until is 6" deep)
#Pack removed stone around outside of forms to create a fully enclosed 6" deep form.
#Use one prebuilt column pad rebar assembly for each column pad site.
#Center the rebar assembly with 3” gap between assembly and form wall on every side.
#Set rebar chairs under corners of prebuilt column pad rebar assemblies.-Put a stone or some gravel under the chairs if needed to center the rebar so it will sit at about the middle of the finished slab (3" off the floor of the form).

[[File:Preparing Column Pad Sites for Concrete Pouring.png|thumb|600 px|center]]

==Concrete Work==
We are preparing to do the big concrete pour. Using the FreeMind mind map model, this is the node that outlines the dependencies so we can be ready for that. Following sections include instructions for accomplishing them.
[[File:Dependencies for Getting Floors Poured.png|thumb|800px|center]]
Here is the planning layout for the concrete - which we are planning to do in one great big pour. We'll let you know how it goes!
[[File:HabLab Concrete Forms Layout.png|800px|center]]

===Insulated Outside Wall Support Slabs===
We are planning to put reinforced concrete the full 3' width of the Column Support Pads all the way around the outside of the building. They will be 3-1/2" (2x4 lumber size) deep and will support the two CEB walls that enclose the hay bale insulation. Rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.

====Preparing the rebar reinforcement assemblies====
Rebar Assembly for 13’ Outside Wall pads (make 11 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’6” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 6’4” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 12’6” by 2’6” dimensions.
#Measure and cut (1) 20’ piece of #4 rebar to 12’7” in length.
#Center the 12’7” piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld it into place.
[[File:Rebar for outside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

Rebar Assembly for 9’6” Outside Wall pads (make 2 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 4’7” from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’6” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 4’7” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 9’ by 2’6” dimensions.
#Measure and cut (1) 20’ piece of #4 rebar to 9’1” in length.
#Center the 9’1” piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld it into place.
[[File:Rebar for 9.5' outside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

Rebar Assembly for 7' Outside Wall pads (make 2 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 3’4” from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’6” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 3’4” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 6’6” by 2’6” dimensions.
#Measure and cut (1) 20’ piece of #4 rebar to 6'7" in length.
#Center the 6'7" piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld it into place.
[[File:Rebar for 7' outside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

====Preparing the concrete forms====
Our pouring plan requires these forms relating to the outside wall construction. For those wall pads that are part of our interior pads, additional forms are in other sections. If you are not pouring large interior pads, you will need to adjust the number of interior forms.

Exterior Forms for 13' Wall slabs. (make 10 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(2) 2"x4"x7' pine studs
*(1) piece of scrap lumber,
*(4) 3" screws
*Driver
''Steps to do:''
#Start two screws into the flat side of each end of the piece of scrap lumber.
#Butt the two 7' boards end to end
#Lay the piece of scrap lumber over the seam butt joint.
#Be sure the narrow sides of the boards are lined up evenly with each other.
#Drive the screws in completely to hold the boards in line.

Interior Forms for 13' Wall slabs. (make 5 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(2) 2"x4"x7' pine studs
*Measuring tape
*Pencil
*Saw
*(4) 3" screws
*Driver
''Steps to do:''
#Measure, mark, and cut one board to be 6' long.
#Start two screws into the flat side of each end of the 1' piece of scrap lumber.
#Butt the 6' piece with the other 7' board end to end
#Lay the piece of scrap lumber over the seam butt joint.
#Be sure the narrow sides of the boards are lined up evenly with each other.
#Drive the screws in completely to hold the boards in line.

Forms for Wall slabs on split-level section

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(6) 2"x4"x7' pine studs
*(4) 2"x4"x10' pine studs
*Measuring tape
*Pencil
*Saw
''Steps to do:''
#Measure, mark, and cut (2) 7' boards to be 6' long.
#Measure, mark, and cut (2) 10' boards to be 9'6" long.
#You will use the other boards uncut.

[[File:Exterior Wall Form Boards.png|thumb|600px|center]]

====Setting the forms====

===Narrow Wall Support Slabs===
We will support and stabilize the interior CEB walls with a 12" wide x 3-1/2" deep concrete slab. Rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.

====Preparing Rebar reinforcement assemblies====
Rebar Assembly for all 12” interior wall slabs

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(10) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 3’4” from one end.
#Bend 180⁰ the rebar with a 3” radius.
#Measure and mark so another 180⁰ with a 3” radius will produce 6’6” long assemblies.
#Cut the extra rebar (about 7’) off, leaving enough to tack weld each assembly together.

#Measure and mark (4) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 4’4” from the end.
#Bend 180⁰ with a 3” radius.
#Measure and mark so another 180⁰ with a 3” radius will produce 8’6” long assemblies.
#Cut the extra rebar off, leaving enough to tack weld each assembly together.

#Measure and mark (4) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” from the end.
#Bend 180⁰ with a 3” radius.
#Measure and mark so another 180⁰ with a 3” radius will produce 12’6” long assemblies.
#Use scrap cuttings (about 7’ long) to bridge the gap for each of these assemblies.
[[File:Rebar for 1' inside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

====Preparing the Concrete Forms====
These 12" wide slabs will provide a firm foundation on which to build our interior CEB room-dividing walls. Mostly they use the same sizes of forms you used for the outside walls. If you are pouring in small stages, you won't have build more forms because you can reuse the ones from the outside wall slabs. If you are going to pour all the concrete at once, you will need 7 more of the 13' inside form assemblies, 4 more uncut 7' boards, 2 more 7' boards cut to 6' lengths, 6 more boards cut to 9'6", and two boards cut to 9' in length.
Instructions for preparing all of these boards are found above - in the [[#Insulated Outside Wall Support Slabs/Preparing the Concrete Forms|Outside Wall Slabs]] section.

====Setting the Forms====

===Kitchen and Bath Areas===
The Kitchen and Bath Floor Areas both have a potential for receiving noticeable amounts of water. We consider it advisable to pave them both with concrete and include a central drain. Rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.
====Preparing the Rebar Assemblies====
Rebar Assembly for 16’x13’ slabs (make 2 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (4) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” from the end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Cut the long ends to 7’10” long.
#Overlap the short ends of two L-shaped pieces and measure to make a U shaped assembly with 12’6” between the legs.
#Make two of these assemblies.
#Overlap the legs of the U-shaped assemblies to make a rectangle measuring 15’6” x 12’6”
#Measure and cut (5) pieces of #4 rebar to 15’7” long.
#Measure and cut (7) pieces of #4 rebar to 12’7” long.
#Space and position the cut pieces into a 24” grid across the rectangle.
#Weld them into place.
[[File:Rebar for 16x13 slab.png|thumb|600px|center]]

====Preparing the Concrete forms====
Because we are pouring this all at once, we decided to eliminate some complicated form work by including the equipment area and one room in this slab. This will be a big pour of concrete. It requires about 5 cubic yards of concrete. If you have plenty of time and are working in small batches, you can save over a yard of concrete by building the interior wall forms and pouring only wall-support pads - as shown on the layout.

The large slabs are laid between column pads, using 13' interior form assemblies. If you are pouring all at once, you will need two more of these assemblies, one more board cut to 9'6", and a piece of scrap about 3' long to complete the form work for this area. This, of course, assumes that you already have the exterior forms for the exterior wall slabs prepared. Instructions for preparing all of these are above in the [[#Insulated Outside Wall Support Slabs/Preparing the Concrete Forms|Outside Wall Slabs]]
section.
====Setting the Forms====

===Retaining Wall for Lower Level===
Ideas for this wall have been through several iterations. At present (Oct. 10th), we are planning to lay a 6" footer, 18" wide and 62' long. On top of that, we plan to put a 12" thick wall of bitumen-protected CEB. For the concrete footer, rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.
====Preparing the Rebar Assembly====
Rebar Assembly for Retaining wall footer

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(9) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Scrap #4 rebar to make (1) 6’ pieces and (1) 1’1” piece
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 8’ from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 12” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut (1) 6’ and (1) 1’1” piece of #4 rebar.
#Overlap and weld (1) 20’ length of rebar to each leg.
#Measure and weld the two longer legs together so the resulting assembly is 61’6” long.
#Weld the 6’ piece of rebar between the ends of the two shorter legs so that side is 61’6” long, too.
#Weld (3) 20’ pieces of #4 rebar into an approximately 60’ length of rebar.
#Center the 60’ piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld one end at the center of one end of the rectangle.
#Position the 1’1” piece of rebar across the rectangle to support the free end of the 60’ assembly.
#Weld the short piece to the three long ones.
[[File:Rebar Assembly for Retaining wall.png|thumb|600px|center]]
====Preparing the Concrete Form====
This is a really long form - 62 feet. You don't want to put it together ahead of time and try to carry it anywhere! What you ''do'' want to do is make sure you have all the pieces you will need cut and reserved against the time you will be setting the forms up.

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(8) 2"x6"x16' boards
*(6) Pieces of 2x4 or 2x6 scrap for splicing.
*Measuring tape
*Pencil
*Saw
''Steps to do''
#Measure and mark 18" from the end of (2) 2x6x16' boards
#Cut the two 18" pieces and mark them "form ends".
#Set aside the 6 16' boards, the 14'6" boards, the form ends, and all the scrap pieces in a reserve pile.

====Setting the Concrete Form====

==CEB Columns==

[[http://ww2.unhabitat.org/programmes/housingpolicy/Images/PDF.gif|UN CEB PDF]]

==CEB Arches==

[[http://ww2.unhabitat.org/programmes/housingpolicy/documents/Vault.pdf|UN Vaults PDF]]

[[http://www.amazon.com/Concrete-Hardness-Hammer-HT-225A-Portable/dp/B0049DDJCK/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1317915942&sr=8-6|Hardness Test Hammer]] for quality assurance

==CEB Floors==

[[http://www.velacreations.com/cebfloors.html|CEB Floor Instructions]]

==Insulated Roof==

2 layers of (16) 11-member 2x6x16' frames will form the insulted roof. One above and one below the bales.

Frames are built with one 16' beam on each end of 9 other 16' beams laid on 24" centers. These roof frames can be built quite quickly at any time labor is available, preferably ahead of time so that they can be installed as soon as the columns are ready to be covered.

Lath 1x2 layed diagonally across the top of the bottom frame at 18 inch intervals to support the bales.

Bales packed close together in a grid.

second layer of 2x6 frames strapped through the bales to the lower layer (details needed here)
For economy, maybe the second layer could be done with 2x4's as they will be well supported and only need to support the metal roofing.

metal roofing applied to the top surface and sides

==Super Insulated Walls==

2.5 foot thick wall.

4x6x12 bricks laid on the 12x4" side in standard wall layup, two walls outside surfaces 2.5' apart.

With air space left on either side, bales are stacked in the center of the wall, creating super insulation between the interior and exterior.

==Heating the HabLab==

I propose a [[http://www.heatkit.com Heatkit]] masonry furnace kit, surrounded by CEB

File:HabLab Concrete Forms Layout.png

2011-10-11T16:28:37Z

Margaret Ida:

Hab Lab

2011-10-11T16:27:51Z

Margaret Ida: /* Concrete Work */

The need for all-weather housing to shelter year-round members of the community, located where summers can be unpleasantly hot and winters unpleasantly cold, can be met with superinsulated designs. Here we will examine some possible options and our progress in bring them into existence. Planning tools, instructions, modifications, etc. will be included.

The [[Hab Lab Design Gallery|Design Page]] is a good place to see what has been offered and to post any of your own great ideas. More ideas are great for everybody!

==Survey & Design==
The area on the property for the first group habitation was on a noticeable slope. OSE staff members worked with a home-made water level to take measurements over a 100' square area.

How to make a water level: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nAcT_1T25LM

Ideas submitted for this project are located on the [[Hab Lab Design Gallery]] page.

===Building Orientation===

==Planning==

===Kitchen/Bath Water===

===Utility/Storage Area===

===Heating===
====Source Material====
http://dnr.mo.gov/pubs/pub781.pdf

==Site Preparation==

The Hab Lab is designed to be supported by columns built of CEB (Compressed Earth Block)which are constructed on a reinforced concrete pad. Due to the slope of our site, we designed a lowered section which requires a low retaining wall. Included here are instructions for preparing the site with adequate footings.

Here is a picture with a preliminary excavation layout for the column pad sites and the retaining wall in the Hab Lab.
*When you are laying out the excavation site, be sure to add 5' in each direction for the excavator to work to.

[[File:HabLab Excavation Layout.png|thumb|800 px|center]]
This levels diagram is from our theoretical measurements - we actually wound up with a 2' drop, not a 2'8" drop. That will make only a minor difference in raising the building - changing the size of the retaining wall and removing one or two CEB's at the top of the lower columns to maintain the planned roof pitch.
[[File:Levels Diagram for Hab Lab Site.png|thumb|800 px|center]]

==Foundations & Column Slabs==

===Laying out the Hab Lab excavation site to be square===
''Collect equipment and supplies needed''
*Blueprint of site plan
*(2) 100’ Measuring tapes
*4 3-4’ stakes
*Hammer
*Bright spray paint
''Steps for Staking out the excavation site.''
#Choose a spot approximately 5 feet to the North and 5 feet to the West of the area to be excavated.
#Pound in a stake and spray paint the top foot or two of it.
#Measure due East a distance 10’ longer than the foundation width (total 67’).
#Place and paint another stake.
#Calculate a distance 10’ longer than the foundation length (total 62’).
#Calculate the diagonal measurement of the excavation site [Length(squared) x Width(squared) = Diagonal(squared)] (91'4").
#Measure due South from the Northwest stake the distance calculated in step 6.
#Set the second tape measure on the Northeast stake and measure the diagonal calculated in step 7 going Southwest.
#Set your third stake where the two measured lengths meet each other.
#Paint the stake.
#Measure due South from the Northeast stake the distance calculated in step 6.
#Set the second tape measure on the Northwest stake and measure the diagonal calculated in step 7 going Southeast.
#Set your fouth stake where the two measured lengths meet each other.
#Paint the stake.

*With the site leveled, the foundation holes for the column slabs must be laid out.
*After excavation, the stone fill for the foundation goes into the holes.
*At the same time, the 6" stone floor foundation is spread.

===Concrete forms and rebar reinforcing assemblies===
These can be built well ahead of need whenever volunteers are available.
*You could set up an assembly line effect to do them all at once with several people working together.
*An individual might do one unit at a time.
*An individual might do all the wood cutting at one time, another do all the rebar cutting at another time, another do all the rebar bending at another time.
*A couple of people might work together to get some wooden forms assembled once the pieces are cut, another time, a couple of people might work together to get some rebar assemblies welded.

The following step-by-step instructions are provided for building the forms and the reinforcing rebar assemblies.

[[https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=14oCxZUjs09wGuvaL4QTAII6hRxQpy20TKv7skH3INRWAVlXqtgdrh0D2ggtl&hl=en Assembly sheet for column pad forms]]

[[https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=1_hf2n-l9rCiEss45ZC8ogtMpeQki9fCoYIFdkD5x3lCOwjGh7Gknr-POJrNB&hl=en Rebar plan for column footings]]

===Laying out the locations for the forms on top of the foundation stone===
Once the form and rebar assemblies are built and the foundation stone is in place, the string site plan lay-out must be set up for placing the forms properly over their (now invisible) foundations. If you set your hole locating strings far enough out that the excavation didn't disturb them, this will be simple. It will be even easier if you rolled up your strings before the hole excavation got done and saved them. (See comments below!)

''Collect equipment and supplies needed''
*Blueprint of site plan
*100' tape measure
*Pre-placed marking stakes around outside of foundation site.
*Rolled up pre-used string balls from foundation hole layout
''Steps for Laying out Column Pad Form locations.''
#Measure to check that all pre-placed marking stakes are properly positioned.
#If any are missing or misplaced, replace or reposition them as needed.
#Unroll and retie the strings to their corresponding stakes across the foundation site .

Here's what the layout over the stone should look like.
[[File:HabLab Column Pad Form Layout.png|thumb|600 px|center]]

We had a great plan for this - we would set our stakes out first to mark the hole edges at 4'x4', save the strings and move the stakes in by 6" to 3'x3' for the setting the pad forms.

However, when we tried it in real life - Well...
*We lost a lot of our stakes during the excavation.
*We found the holes tended to come out bigger than we had intended them to be.
*And once the stone was laid over the site, we couldn't see where the foundation holes were located!
We wound up remeasuring and resetting most of the stakes for laying out the pad site grid.
*We dug stone out of two of corners to find the edges of the foundation holes.
*We remeasured and reset corner marking stakes inside those edges.
*We retriangulated with the diagonals to assure the foundation square.
*And we remeasured and reset stakes along all the edges.

So we've rewritten the foundation lay-out plans as they are currently posted. In the current version, we set the stakes at the 3'x3' points to start with so they don't need to be moved. We also emphasized setting them firmly - and safely outside the excavation area.

===Setting the column pad forms===
''Collect equipment and supplies needed''
*Supplies
**16 Pre-built column pad forms
**80 form stakes (we used 2"x2"x18" wooden stakes)
*Equipment
**Heavy Hammer(s)
**4'spirit Level
**Water level
**tape measure
''Steps to place Column Pad forms''
#Use with the center pad site on the upper level as the reference pad.
#Set a pre-built column pad form in place under the string lines with the inside of the forms under the strings.
#Drive two form stakes next to the outside of one side and one on each of the other three sides. They will need to sit deep enough that the tops of the stakes will be level with (or lower than) the top of the form.
#Level the form.
##Screw one of the stakes (on the side with two) to the side of the form so that the form sits 1/2" above the gravel level. Be sure that the top of the stake is level with (or lower than) the top of the form.
##Use the spirit level to set this side of the form level and screw it in position.
##Use the spirit level to set the opposite side of the form at the same level.
##Check the level on the other two sides and screw them in place.
#Use the water level to set the first level on each of the other pads on the upper level.
#Repeat the remainder of the leveling steps for each form.
#Use the water level to set the level of the center form in the lower level at 24" lower than the upper level pads.
#Complete the leveling steps for this form.
#Use the center form on the lower level for a reference form to set and level the remaining lower level column pad forms.

[[File:Setting Column Pad Forms Diagram.png|thumb|600 px|center]]

===Preparing Column Pad Forms for Reinforced Concrete===
Collect equipment and supplies needed
*Supplies
**16 Pre-built column pad rebar assemblies
**64 rebar chairs
*Equipment
**Rake(s)
**shovel
**tape measure
#Use a rake and shovel to remove about 2" of stone from the inside of the form. (until is 6" deep)
#Pack removed stone around outside of forms to create a fully enclosed 6" deep form.
#Use one prebuilt column pad rebar assembly for each column pad site.
#Center the rebar assembly with 3” gap between assembly and form wall on every side.
#Set rebar chairs under corners of prebuilt column pad rebar assemblies.-Put a stone or some gravel under the chairs if needed to center the rebar so it will sit at about the middle of the finished slab (3" off the floor of the form).

[[File:Preparing Column Pad Sites for Concrete Pouring.png|thumb|600 px|center]]

==Concrete Work==
We are preparing to do the big concrete pour. Using the FreeMind mind map model, this is the node that outlines the dependencies so we can be ready for that. Following sections include instructions for accomplishing them.
[[File:Dependencies for Getting Floors Poured.png|thumb|800px|center]]
Here is the planning layout for the concrete - which we are planning to do in one great big pour. We'll let you know how it goes!

===Insulated Outside Wall Support Slabs===
We are planning to put reinforced concrete the full 3' width of the Column Support Pads all the way around the outside of the building. They will be 3-1/2" (2x4 lumber size) deep and will support the two CEB walls that enclose the hay bale insulation. Rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.

====Preparing the rebar reinforcement assemblies====
Rebar Assembly for 13’ Outside Wall pads (make 11 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’6” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 6’4” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 12’6” by 2’6” dimensions.
#Measure and cut (1) 20’ piece of #4 rebar to 12’7” in length.
#Center the 12’7” piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld it into place.
[[File:Rebar for outside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

Rebar Assembly for 9’6” Outside Wall pads (make 2 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 4’7” from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’6” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 4’7” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 9’ by 2’6” dimensions.
#Measure and cut (1) 20’ piece of #4 rebar to 9’1” in length.
#Center the 9’1” piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld it into place.
[[File:Rebar for 9.5' outside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

Rebar Assembly for 7' Outside Wall pads (make 2 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 3’4” from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’6” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 3’4” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 6’6” by 2’6” dimensions.
#Measure and cut (1) 20’ piece of #4 rebar to 6'7" in length.
#Center the 6'7" piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld it into place.
[[File:Rebar for 7' outside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

====Preparing the concrete forms====
Our pouring plan requires these forms relating to the outside wall construction. For those wall pads that are part of our interior pads, additional forms are in other sections. If you are not pouring large interior pads, you will need to adjust the number of interior forms.

Exterior Forms for 13' Wall slabs. (make 10 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(2) 2"x4"x7' pine studs
*(1) piece of scrap lumber,
*(4) 3" screws
*Driver
''Steps to do:''
#Start two screws into the flat side of each end of the piece of scrap lumber.
#Butt the two 7' boards end to end
#Lay the piece of scrap lumber over the seam butt joint.
#Be sure the narrow sides of the boards are lined up evenly with each other.
#Drive the screws in completely to hold the boards in line.

Interior Forms for 13' Wall slabs. (make 5 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(2) 2"x4"x7' pine studs
*Measuring tape
*Pencil
*Saw
*(4) 3" screws
*Driver
''Steps to do:''
#Measure, mark, and cut one board to be 6' long.
#Start two screws into the flat side of each end of the 1' piece of scrap lumber.
#Butt the 6' piece with the other 7' board end to end
#Lay the piece of scrap lumber over the seam butt joint.
#Be sure the narrow sides of the boards are lined up evenly with each other.
#Drive the screws in completely to hold the boards in line.

Forms for Wall slabs on split-level section

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(6) 2"x4"x7' pine studs
*(4) 2"x4"x10' pine studs
*Measuring tape
*Pencil
*Saw
''Steps to do:''
#Measure, mark, and cut (2) 7' boards to be 6' long.
#Measure, mark, and cut (2) 10' boards to be 9'6" long.
#You will use the other boards uncut.

[[File:Exterior Wall Form Boards.png|thumb|600px|center]]

====Setting the forms====

===Narrow Wall Support Slabs===
We will support and stabilize the interior CEB walls with a 12" wide x 3-1/2" deep concrete slab. Rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.

====Preparing Rebar reinforcement assemblies====
Rebar Assembly for all 12” interior wall slabs

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(10) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 3’4” from one end.
#Bend 180⁰ the rebar with a 3” radius.
#Measure and mark so another 180⁰ with a 3” radius will produce 6’6” long assemblies.
#Cut the extra rebar (about 7’) off, leaving enough to tack weld each assembly together.

#Measure and mark (4) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 4’4” from the end.
#Bend 180⁰ with a 3” radius.
#Measure and mark so another 180⁰ with a 3” radius will produce 8’6” long assemblies.
#Cut the extra rebar off, leaving enough to tack weld each assembly together.

#Measure and mark (4) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” from the end.
#Bend 180⁰ with a 3” radius.
#Measure and mark so another 180⁰ with a 3” radius will produce 12’6” long assemblies.
#Use scrap cuttings (about 7’ long) to bridge the gap for each of these assemblies.
[[File:Rebar for 1' inside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

====Preparing the Concrete Forms====
These 12" wide slabs will provide a firm foundation on which to build our interior CEB room-dividing walls. Mostly they use the same sizes of forms you used for the outside walls. If you are pouring in small stages, you won't have build more forms because you can reuse the ones from the outside wall slabs. If you are going to pour all the concrete at once, you will need 7 more of the 13' inside form assemblies, 4 more uncut 7' boards, 2 more 7' boards cut to 6' lengths, 6 more boards cut to 9'6", and two boards cut to 9' in length.
Instructions for preparing all of these boards are found above - in the [[#Insulated Outside Wall Support Slabs/Preparing the Concrete Forms|Outside Wall Slabs]] section.

====Setting the Forms====

===Kitchen and Bath Areas===
The Kitchen and Bath Floor Areas both have a potential for receiving noticeable amounts of water. We consider it advisable to pave them both with concrete and include a central drain. Rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.
====Preparing the Rebar Assemblies====
Rebar Assembly for 16’x13’ slabs (make 2 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (4) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” from the end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Cut the long ends to 7’10” long.
#Overlap the short ends of two L-shaped pieces and measure to make a U shaped assembly with 12’6” between the legs.
#Make two of these assemblies.
#Overlap the legs of the U-shaped assemblies to make a rectangle measuring 15’6” x 12’6”
#Measure and cut (5) pieces of #4 rebar to 15’7” long.
#Measure and cut (7) pieces of #4 rebar to 12’7” long.
#Space and position the cut pieces into a 24” grid across the rectangle.
#Weld them into place.
[[File:Rebar for 16x13 slab.png|thumb|600px|center]]

====Preparing the Concrete forms====
Because we are pouring this all at once, we decided to eliminate some complicated form work by including the equipment area and one room in this slab. This will be a big pour of concrete. It requires about 5 cubic yards of concrete. If you have plenty of time and are working in small batches, you can save over a yard of concrete by building the interior wall forms and pouring only wall-support pads - as shown on the layout.

The large slabs are laid between column pads, using 13' interior form assemblies. If you are pouring all at once, you will need two more of these assemblies, one more board cut to 9'6", and a piece of scrap about 3' long to complete the form work for this area. This, of course, assumes that you already have the exterior forms for the exterior wall slabs prepared. Instructions for preparing all of these are above in the [[#Insulated Outside Wall Support Slabs/Preparing the Concrete Forms|Outside Wall Slabs]]
section.
====Setting the Forms====

===Retaining Wall for Lower Level===
Ideas for this wall have been through several iterations. At present (Oct. 10th), we are planning to lay a 6" footer, 18" wide and 62' long. On top of that, we plan to put a 12" thick wall of bitumen-protected CEB. For the concrete footer, rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.
====Preparing the Rebar Assembly====
Rebar Assembly for Retaining wall footer

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(9) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Scrap #4 rebar to make (1) 6’ pieces and (1) 1’1” piece
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 8’ from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 12” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut (1) 6’ and (1) 1’1” piece of #4 rebar.
#Overlap and weld (1) 20’ length of rebar to each leg.
#Measure and weld the two longer legs together so the resulting assembly is 61’6” long.
#Weld the 6’ piece of rebar between the ends of the two shorter legs so that side is 61’6” long, too.
#Weld (3) 20’ pieces of #4 rebar into an approximately 60’ length of rebar.
#Center the 60’ piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld one end at the center of one end of the rectangle.
#Position the 1’1” piece of rebar across the rectangle to support the free end of the 60’ assembly.
#Weld the short piece to the three long ones.
[[File:Rebar Assembly for Retaining wall.png|thumb|600px|center]]
====Preparing the Concrete Form====
This is a really long form - 62 feet. You don't want to put it together ahead of time and try to carry it anywhere! What you ''do'' want to do is make sure you have all the pieces you will need cut and reserved against the time you will be setting the forms up.

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(8) 2"x6"x16' boards
*(6) Pieces of 2x4 or 2x6 scrap for splicing.
*Measuring tape
*Pencil
*Saw
''Steps to do''
#Measure and mark 18" from the end of (2) 2x6x16' boards
#Cut the two 18" pieces and mark them "form ends".
#Set aside the 6 16' boards, the 14'6" boards, the form ends, and all the scrap pieces in a reserve pile.

====Setting the Concrete Form====

==CEB Columns==

[[http://ww2.unhabitat.org/programmes/housingpolicy/Images/PDF.gif|UN CEB PDF]]

==CEB Arches==

[[http://ww2.unhabitat.org/programmes/housingpolicy/documents/Vault.pdf|UN Vaults PDF]]

[[http://www.amazon.com/Concrete-Hardness-Hammer-HT-225A-Portable/dp/B0049DDJCK/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1317915942&sr=8-6|Hardness Test Hammer]] for quality assurance

==CEB Floors==

[[http://www.velacreations.com/cebfloors.html|CEB Floor Instructions]]

==Insulated Roof==

2 layers of (16) 11-member 2x6x16' frames will form the insulted roof. One above and one below the bales.

Frames are built with one 16' beam on each end of 9 other 16' beams laid on 24" centers. These roof frames can be built quite quickly at any time labor is available, preferably ahead of time so that they can be installed as soon as the columns are ready to be covered.

Lath 1x2 layed diagonally across the top of the bottom frame at 18 inch intervals to support the bales.

Bales packed close together in a grid.

second layer of 2x6 frames strapped through the bales to the lower layer (details needed here)
For economy, maybe the second layer could be done with 2x4's as they will be well supported and only need to support the metal roofing.

metal roofing applied to the top surface and sides

==Super Insulated Walls==

2.5 foot thick wall.

4x6x12 bricks laid on the 12x4" side in standard wall layup, two walls outside surfaces 2.5' apart.

With air space left on either side, bales are stacked in the center of the wall, creating super insulation between the interior and exterior.

==Heating the HabLab==

I propose a [[http://www.heatkit.com Heatkit]] masonry furnace kit, surrounded by CEB

Hab Lab

2011-10-11T15:59:45Z

Margaret Ida: /* Preparing the Concrete Form */

The need for all-weather housing to shelter year-round members of the community, located where summers can be unpleasantly hot and winters unpleasantly cold, can be met with superinsulated designs. Here we will examine some possible options and our progress in bring them into existence. Planning tools, instructions, modifications, etc. will be included.

The [[Hab Lab Design Gallery|Design Page]] is a good place to see what has been offered and to post any of your own great ideas. More ideas are great for everybody!

==Survey & Design==
The area on the property for the first group habitation was on a noticeable slope. OSE staff members worked with a home-made water level to take measurements over a 100' square area.

How to make a water level: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nAcT_1T25LM

Ideas submitted for this project are located on the [[Hab Lab Design Gallery]] page.

===Building Orientation===

==Planning==

===Kitchen/Bath Water===

===Utility/Storage Area===

===Heating===
====Source Material====
http://dnr.mo.gov/pubs/pub781.pdf

==Site Preparation==

The Hab Lab is designed to be supported by columns built of CEB (Compressed Earth Block)which are constructed on a reinforced concrete pad. Due to the slope of our site, we designed a lowered section which requires a low retaining wall. Included here are instructions for preparing the site with adequate footings.

Here is a picture with a preliminary excavation layout for the column pad sites and the retaining wall in the Hab Lab.
*When you are laying out the excavation site, be sure to add 5' in each direction for the excavator to work to.

[[File:HabLab Excavation Layout.png|thumb|800 px|center]]
This levels diagram is from our theoretical measurements - we actually wound up with a 2' drop, not a 2'8" drop. That will make only a minor difference in raising the building - changing the size of the retaining wall and removing one or two CEB's at the top of the lower columns to maintain the planned roof pitch.
[[File:Levels Diagram for Hab Lab Site.png|thumb|800 px|center]]

==Foundations & Column Slabs==

===Laying out the Hab Lab excavation site to be square===
''Collect equipment and supplies needed''
*Blueprint of site plan
*(2) 100’ Measuring tapes
*4 3-4’ stakes
*Hammer
*Bright spray paint
''Steps for Staking out the excavation site.''
#Choose a spot approximately 5 feet to the North and 5 feet to the West of the area to be excavated.
#Pound in a stake and spray paint the top foot or two of it.
#Measure due East a distance 10’ longer than the foundation width (total 67’).
#Place and paint another stake.
#Calculate a distance 10’ longer than the foundation length (total 62’).
#Calculate the diagonal measurement of the excavation site [Length(squared) x Width(squared) = Diagonal(squared)] (91'4").
#Measure due South from the Northwest stake the distance calculated in step 6.
#Set the second tape measure on the Northeast stake and measure the diagonal calculated in step 7 going Southwest.
#Set your third stake where the two measured lengths meet each other.
#Paint the stake.
#Measure due South from the Northeast stake the distance calculated in step 6.
#Set the second tape measure on the Northwest stake and measure the diagonal calculated in step 7 going Southeast.
#Set your fouth stake where the two measured lengths meet each other.
#Paint the stake.

*With the site leveled, the foundation holes for the column slabs must be laid out.
*After excavation, the stone fill for the foundation goes into the holes.
*At the same time, the 6" stone floor foundation is spread.

===Concrete forms and rebar reinforcing assemblies===
These can be built well ahead of need whenever volunteers are available.
*You could set up an assembly line effect to do them all at once with several people working together.
*An individual might do one unit at a time.
*An individual might do all the wood cutting at one time, another do all the rebar cutting at another time, another do all the rebar bending at another time.
*A couple of people might work together to get some wooden forms assembled once the pieces are cut, another time, a couple of people might work together to get some rebar assemblies welded.

The following step-by-step instructions are provided for building the forms and the reinforcing rebar assemblies.

[[https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=14oCxZUjs09wGuvaL4QTAII6hRxQpy20TKv7skH3INRWAVlXqtgdrh0D2ggtl&hl=en Assembly sheet for column pad forms]]

[[https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=1_hf2n-l9rCiEss45ZC8ogtMpeQki9fCoYIFdkD5x3lCOwjGh7Gknr-POJrNB&hl=en Rebar plan for column footings]]

===Laying out the locations for the forms on top of the foundation stone===
Once the form and rebar assemblies are built and the foundation stone is in place, the string site plan lay-out must be set up for placing the forms properly over their (now invisible) foundations. If you set your hole locating strings far enough out that the excavation didn't disturb them, this will be simple. It will be even easier if you rolled up your strings before the hole excavation got done and saved them. (See comments below!)

''Collect equipment and supplies needed''
*Blueprint of site plan
*100' tape measure
*Pre-placed marking stakes around outside of foundation site.
*Rolled up pre-used string balls from foundation hole layout
''Steps for Laying out Column Pad Form locations.''
#Measure to check that all pre-placed marking stakes are properly positioned.
#If any are missing or misplaced, replace or reposition them as needed.
#Unroll and retie the strings to their corresponding stakes across the foundation site .

Here's what the layout over the stone should look like.
[[File:HabLab Column Pad Form Layout.png|thumb|600 px|center]]

We had a great plan for this - we would set our stakes out first to mark the hole edges at 4'x4', save the strings and move the stakes in by 6" to 3'x3' for the setting the pad forms.

However, when we tried it in real life - Well...
*We lost a lot of our stakes during the excavation.
*We found the holes tended to come out bigger than we had intended them to be.
*And once the stone was laid over the site, we couldn't see where the foundation holes were located!
We wound up remeasuring and resetting most of the stakes for laying out the pad site grid.
*We dug stone out of two of corners to find the edges of the foundation holes.
*We remeasured and reset corner marking stakes inside those edges.
*We retriangulated with the diagonals to assure the foundation square.
*And we remeasured and reset stakes along all the edges.

So we've rewritten the foundation lay-out plans as they are currently posted. In the current version, we set the stakes at the 3'x3' points to start with so they don't need to be moved. We also emphasized setting them firmly - and safely outside the excavation area.

===Setting the column pad forms===
''Collect equipment and supplies needed''
*Supplies
**16 Pre-built column pad forms
**80 form stakes (we used 2"x2"x18" wooden stakes)
*Equipment
**Heavy Hammer(s)
**4'spirit Level
**Water level
**tape measure
''Steps to place Column Pad forms''
#Use with the center pad site on the upper level as the reference pad.
#Set a pre-built column pad form in place under the string lines with the inside of the forms under the strings.
#Drive two form stakes next to the outside of one side and one on each of the other three sides. They will need to sit deep enough that the tops of the stakes will be level with (or lower than) the top of the form.
#Level the form.
##Screw one of the stakes (on the side with two) to the side of the form so that the form sits 1/2" above the gravel level. Be sure that the top of the stake is level with (or lower than) the top of the form.
##Use the spirit level to set this side of the form level and screw it in position.
##Use the spirit level to set the opposite side of the form at the same level.
##Check the level on the other two sides and screw them in place.
#Use the water level to set the first level on each of the other pads on the upper level.
#Repeat the remainder of the leveling steps for each form.
#Use the water level to set the level of the center form in the lower level at 24" lower than the upper level pads.
#Complete the leveling steps for this form.
#Use the center form on the lower level for a reference form to set and level the remaining lower level column pad forms.

[[File:Setting Column Pad Forms Diagram.png|thumb|600 px|center]]

===Preparing Column Pad Forms for Reinforced Concrete===
Collect equipment and supplies needed
*Supplies
**16 Pre-built column pad rebar assemblies
**64 rebar chairs
*Equipment
**Rake(s)
**shovel
**tape measure
#Use a rake and shovel to remove about 2" of stone from the inside of the form. (until is 6" deep)
#Pack removed stone around outside of forms to create a fully enclosed 6" deep form.
#Use one prebuilt column pad rebar assembly for each column pad site.
#Center the rebar assembly with 3” gap between assembly and form wall on every side.
#Set rebar chairs under corners of prebuilt column pad rebar assemblies.-Put a stone or some gravel under the chairs if needed to center the rebar so it will sit at about the middle of the finished slab (3" off the floor of the form).

[[File:Preparing Column Pad Sites for Concrete Pouring.png|thumb|600 px|center]]

==Concrete Work==
We are preparing to do the big concrete pour. Using the FreeMind mind map model, this is the node that outlines the dependencies so we can be ready for that. Following sections include instructions for accomplishing them.
[[File:Dependencies for Getting Floors Poured.png|thumb|800px|center]]

===Insulated Outside Wall Support Slabs===
We are planning to put reinforced concrete the full 3' width of the Column Support Pads all the way around the outside of the building. They will be 3-1/2" (2x4 lumber size) deep and will support the two CEB walls that enclose the hay bale insulation. Rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.

====Preparing the rebar reinforcement assemblies====
Rebar Assembly for 13’ Outside Wall pads (make 11 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’6” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 6’4” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 12’6” by 2’6” dimensions.
#Measure and cut (1) 20’ piece of #4 rebar to 12’7” in length.
#Center the 12’7” piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld it into place.
[[File:Rebar for outside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

Rebar Assembly for 9’6” Outside Wall pads (make 2 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 4’7” from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’6” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 4’7” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 9’ by 2’6” dimensions.
#Measure and cut (1) 20’ piece of #4 rebar to 9’1” in length.
#Center the 9’1” piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld it into place.
[[File:Rebar for 9.5' outside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

Rebar Assembly for 7' Outside Wall pads (make 2 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 3’4” from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’6” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 3’4” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 6’6” by 2’6” dimensions.
#Measure and cut (1) 20’ piece of #4 rebar to 6'7" in length.
#Center the 6'7" piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld it into place.
[[File:Rebar for 7' outside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

====Preparing the concrete forms====
Our pouring plan requires these forms relating to the outside wall construction. For those wall pads that are part of our interior pads, additional forms are in other sections. If you are not pouring large interior pads, you will need to adjust the number of interior forms.

Exterior Forms for 13' Wall slabs. (make 10 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(2) 2"x4"x7' pine studs
*(1) piece of scrap lumber,
*(4) 3" screws
*Driver
''Steps to do:''
#Start two screws into the flat side of each end of the piece of scrap lumber.
#Butt the two 7' boards end to end
#Lay the piece of scrap lumber over the seam butt joint.
#Be sure the narrow sides of the boards are lined up evenly with each other.
#Drive the screws in completely to hold the boards in line.

Interior Forms for 13' Wall slabs. (make 5 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(2) 2"x4"x7' pine studs
*Measuring tape
*Pencil
*Saw
*(4) 3" screws
*Driver
''Steps to do:''
#Measure, mark, and cut one board to be 6' long.
#Start two screws into the flat side of each end of the 1' piece of scrap lumber.
#Butt the 6' piece with the other 7' board end to end
#Lay the piece of scrap lumber over the seam butt joint.
#Be sure the narrow sides of the boards are lined up evenly with each other.
#Drive the screws in completely to hold the boards in line.

Forms for Wall slabs on split-level section

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(6) 2"x4"x7' pine studs
*(4) 2"x4"x10' pine studs
*Measuring tape
*Pencil
*Saw
''Steps to do:''
#Measure, mark, and cut (2) 7' boards to be 6' long.
#Measure, mark, and cut (2) 10' boards to be 9'6" long.
#You will use the other boards uncut.

[[File:Exterior Wall Form Boards.png|thumb|600px|center]]

====Setting the forms====

===Narrow Wall Support Slabs===
We will support and stabilize the interior CEB walls with a 12" wide x 3-1/2" deep concrete slab. Rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.

====Preparing Rebar reinforcement assemblies====
Rebar Assembly for all 12” interior wall slabs

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(10) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 3’4” from one end.
#Bend 180⁰ the rebar with a 3” radius.
#Measure and mark so another 180⁰ with a 3” radius will produce 6’6” long assemblies.
#Cut the extra rebar (about 7’) off, leaving enough to tack weld each assembly together.

#Measure and mark (4) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 4’4” from the end.
#Bend 180⁰ with a 3” radius.
#Measure and mark so another 180⁰ with a 3” radius will produce 8’6” long assemblies.
#Cut the extra rebar off, leaving enough to tack weld each assembly together.

#Measure and mark (4) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” from the end.
#Bend 180⁰ with a 3” radius.
#Measure and mark so another 180⁰ with a 3” radius will produce 12’6” long assemblies.
#Use scrap cuttings (about 7’ long) to bridge the gap for each of these assemblies.
[[File:Rebar for 1' inside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

====Preparing the Concrete Forms====
These 12" wide slabs will provide a firm foundation on which to build our interior CEB room-dividing walls. Mostly they use the same sizes of forms you used for the outside walls. If you are pouring in small stages, you won't have build more forms because you can reuse the ones from the outside wall slabs. If you are going to pour all the concrete at once, you will need 7 more of the 13' inside form assemblies, 4 more uncut 7' boards, 2 more 7' boards cut to 6' lengths, 6 more boards cut to 9'6", and two boards cut to 9' in length.
Instructions for preparing all of these boards are found above - in the [[#Insulated Outside Wall Support Slabs/Preparing the Concrete Forms|Outside Wall Slabs]] section.

====Setting the Forms====

===Kitchen and Bath Areas===
The Kitchen and Bath Floor Areas both have a potential for receiving noticeable amounts of water. We consider it advisable to pave them both with concrete and include a central drain. Rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.
====Preparing the Rebar Assemblies====
Rebar Assembly for 16’x13’ slabs (make 2 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (4) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” from the end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Cut the long ends to 7’10” long.
#Overlap the short ends of two L-shaped pieces and measure to make a U shaped assembly with 12’6” between the legs.
#Make two of these assemblies.
#Overlap the legs of the U-shaped assemblies to make a rectangle measuring 15’6” x 12’6”
#Measure and cut (5) pieces of #4 rebar to 15’7” long.
#Measure and cut (7) pieces of #4 rebar to 12’7” long.
#Space and position the cut pieces into a 24” grid across the rectangle.
#Weld them into place.
[[File:Rebar for 16x13 slab.png|thumb|600px|center]]

====Preparing the Concrete forms====
Because we are pouring this all at once, we decided to eliminate some complicated form work by including the equipment area and one room in this slab. This will be a big pour of concrete. It requires about 5 cubic yards of concrete. If you have plenty of time and are working in small batches, you can save over a yard of concrete by building the interior wall forms and pouring only wall-support pads - as shown on the layout.

The large slabs are laid between column pads, using 13' interior form assemblies. If you are pouring all at once, you will need two more of these assemblies, one more board cut to 9'6", and a piece of scrap about 3' long to complete the form work for this area. This, of course, assumes that you already have the exterior forms for the exterior wall slabs prepared. Instructions for preparing all of these are above in the [[#Insulated Outside Wall Support Slabs/Preparing the Concrete Forms|Outside Wall Slabs]]
section.
====Setting the Forms====

===Retaining Wall for Lower Level===
Ideas for this wall have been through several iterations. At present (Oct. 10th), we are planning to lay a 6" footer, 18" wide and 62' long. On top of that, we plan to put a 12" thick wall of bitumen-protected CEB. For the concrete footer, rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.
====Preparing the Rebar Assembly====
Rebar Assembly for Retaining wall footer

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(9) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Scrap #4 rebar to make (1) 6’ pieces and (1) 1’1” piece
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 8’ from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 12” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut (1) 6’ and (1) 1’1” piece of #4 rebar.
#Overlap and weld (1) 20’ length of rebar to each leg.
#Measure and weld the two longer legs together so the resulting assembly is 61’6” long.
#Weld the 6’ piece of rebar between the ends of the two shorter legs so that side is 61’6” long, too.
#Weld (3) 20’ pieces of #4 rebar into an approximately 60’ length of rebar.
#Center the 60’ piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld one end at the center of one end of the rectangle.
#Position the 1’1” piece of rebar across the rectangle to support the free end of the 60’ assembly.
#Weld the short piece to the three long ones.
[[File:Rebar Assembly for Retaining wall.png|thumb|600px|center]]
====Preparing the Concrete Form====
This is a really long form - 62 feet. You don't want to put it together ahead of time and try to carry it anywhere! What you ''do'' want to do is make sure you have all the pieces you will need cut and reserved against the time you will be setting the forms up.

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(8) 2"x6"x16' boards
*(6) Pieces of 2x4 or 2x6 scrap for splicing.
*Measuring tape
*Pencil
*Saw
''Steps to do''
#Measure and mark 18" from the end of (2) 2x6x16' boards
#Cut the two 18" pieces and mark them "form ends".
#Set aside the 6 16' boards, the 14'6" boards, the form ends, and all the scrap pieces in a reserve pile.

====Setting the Concrete Form====

==CEB Columns==

[[http://ww2.unhabitat.org/programmes/housingpolicy/Images/PDF.gif|UN CEB PDF]]

==CEB Arches==

[[http://ww2.unhabitat.org/programmes/housingpolicy/documents/Vault.pdf|UN Vaults PDF]]

[[http://www.amazon.com/Concrete-Hardness-Hammer-HT-225A-Portable/dp/B0049DDJCK/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1317915942&sr=8-6|Hardness Test Hammer]] for quality assurance

==CEB Floors==

[[http://www.velacreations.com/cebfloors.html|CEB Floor Instructions]]

==Insulated Roof==

2 layers of (16) 11-member 2x6x16' frames will form the insulted roof. One above and one below the bales.

Frames are built with one 16' beam on each end of 9 other 16' beams laid on 24" centers. These roof frames can be built quite quickly at any time labor is available, preferably ahead of time so that they can be installed as soon as the columns are ready to be covered.

Lath 1x2 layed diagonally across the top of the bottom frame at 18 inch intervals to support the bales.

Bales packed close together in a grid.

second layer of 2x6 frames strapped through the bales to the lower layer (details needed here)
For economy, maybe the second layer could be done with 2x4's as they will be well supported and only need to support the metal roofing.

metal roofing applied to the top surface and sides

==Super Insulated Walls==

2.5 foot thick wall.

4x6x12 bricks laid on the 12x4" side in standard wall layup, two walls outside surfaces 2.5' apart.

With air space left on either side, bales are stacked in the center of the wall, creating super insulation between the interior and exterior.

==Heating the HabLab==

I propose a [[http://www.heatkit.com Heatkit]] masonry furnace kit, surrounded by CEB

Hab Lab

2011-10-11T15:39:17Z

Margaret Ida: /* Kitchen and Bath Areas */

The need for all-weather housing to shelter year-round members of the community, located where summers can be unpleasantly hot and winters unpleasantly cold, can be met with superinsulated designs. Here we will examine some possible options and our progress in bring them into existence. Planning tools, instructions, modifications, etc. will be included.

The [[Hab Lab Design Gallery|Design Page]] is a good place to see what has been offered and to post any of your own great ideas. More ideas are great for everybody!

==Survey & Design==
The area on the property for the first group habitation was on a noticeable slope. OSE staff members worked with a home-made water level to take measurements over a 100' square area.

How to make a water level: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nAcT_1T25LM

Ideas submitted for this project are located on the [[Hab Lab Design Gallery]] page.

===Building Orientation===

==Planning==

===Kitchen/Bath Water===

===Utility/Storage Area===

===Heating===
====Source Material====
http://dnr.mo.gov/pubs/pub781.pdf

==Site Preparation==

The Hab Lab is designed to be supported by columns built of CEB (Compressed Earth Block)which are constructed on a reinforced concrete pad. Due to the slope of our site, we designed a lowered section which requires a low retaining wall. Included here are instructions for preparing the site with adequate footings.

Here is a picture with a preliminary excavation layout for the column pad sites and the retaining wall in the Hab Lab.
*When you are laying out the excavation site, be sure to add 5' in each direction for the excavator to work to.

[[File:HabLab Excavation Layout.png|thumb|800 px|center]]
This levels diagram is from our theoretical measurements - we actually wound up with a 2' drop, not a 2'8" drop. That will make only a minor difference in raising the building - changing the size of the retaining wall and removing one or two CEB's at the top of the lower columns to maintain the planned roof pitch.
[[File:Levels Diagram for Hab Lab Site.png|thumb|800 px|center]]

==Foundations & Column Slabs==

===Laying out the Hab Lab excavation site to be square===
''Collect equipment and supplies needed''
*Blueprint of site plan
*(2) 100’ Measuring tapes
*4 3-4’ stakes
*Hammer
*Bright spray paint
''Steps for Staking out the excavation site.''
#Choose a spot approximately 5 feet to the North and 5 feet to the West of the area to be excavated.
#Pound in a stake and spray paint the top foot or two of it.
#Measure due East a distance 10’ longer than the foundation width (total 67’).
#Place and paint another stake.
#Calculate a distance 10’ longer than the foundation length (total 62’).
#Calculate the diagonal measurement of the excavation site [Length(squared) x Width(squared) = Diagonal(squared)] (91'4").
#Measure due South from the Northwest stake the distance calculated in step 6.
#Set the second tape measure on the Northeast stake and measure the diagonal calculated in step 7 going Southwest.
#Set your third stake where the two measured lengths meet each other.
#Paint the stake.
#Measure due South from the Northeast stake the distance calculated in step 6.
#Set the second tape measure on the Northwest stake and measure the diagonal calculated in step 7 going Southeast.
#Set your fouth stake where the two measured lengths meet each other.
#Paint the stake.

*With the site leveled, the foundation holes for the column slabs must be laid out.
*After excavation, the stone fill for the foundation goes into the holes.
*At the same time, the 6" stone floor foundation is spread.

===Concrete forms and rebar reinforcing assemblies===
These can be built well ahead of need whenever volunteers are available.
*You could set up an assembly line effect to do them all at once with several people working together.
*An individual might do one unit at a time.
*An individual might do all the wood cutting at one time, another do all the rebar cutting at another time, another do all the rebar bending at another time.
*A couple of people might work together to get some wooden forms assembled once the pieces are cut, another time, a couple of people might work together to get some rebar assemblies welded.

The following step-by-step instructions are provided for building the forms and the reinforcing rebar assemblies.

[[https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=14oCxZUjs09wGuvaL4QTAII6hRxQpy20TKv7skH3INRWAVlXqtgdrh0D2ggtl&hl=en Assembly sheet for column pad forms]]

[[https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=1_hf2n-l9rCiEss45ZC8ogtMpeQki9fCoYIFdkD5x3lCOwjGh7Gknr-POJrNB&hl=en Rebar plan for column footings]]

===Laying out the locations for the forms on top of the foundation stone===
Once the form and rebar assemblies are built and the foundation stone is in place, the string site plan lay-out must be set up for placing the forms properly over their (now invisible) foundations. If you set your hole locating strings far enough out that the excavation didn't disturb them, this will be simple. It will be even easier if you rolled up your strings before the hole excavation got done and saved them. (See comments below!)

''Collect equipment and supplies needed''
*Blueprint of site plan
*100' tape measure
*Pre-placed marking stakes around outside of foundation site.
*Rolled up pre-used string balls from foundation hole layout
''Steps for Laying out Column Pad Form locations.''
#Measure to check that all pre-placed marking stakes are properly positioned.
#If any are missing or misplaced, replace or reposition them as needed.
#Unroll and retie the strings to their corresponding stakes across the foundation site .

Here's what the layout over the stone should look like.
[[File:HabLab Column Pad Form Layout.png|thumb|600 px|center]]

We had a great plan for this - we would set our stakes out first to mark the hole edges at 4'x4', save the strings and move the stakes in by 6" to 3'x3' for the setting the pad forms.

However, when we tried it in real life - Well...
*We lost a lot of our stakes during the excavation.
*We found the holes tended to come out bigger than we had intended them to be.
*And once the stone was laid over the site, we couldn't see where the foundation holes were located!
We wound up remeasuring and resetting most of the stakes for laying out the pad site grid.
*We dug stone out of two of corners to find the edges of the foundation holes.
*We remeasured and reset corner marking stakes inside those edges.
*We retriangulated with the diagonals to assure the foundation square.
*And we remeasured and reset stakes along all the edges.

So we've rewritten the foundation lay-out plans as they are currently posted. In the current version, we set the stakes at the 3'x3' points to start with so they don't need to be moved. We also emphasized setting them firmly - and safely outside the excavation area.

===Setting the column pad forms===
''Collect equipment and supplies needed''
*Supplies
**16 Pre-built column pad forms
**80 form stakes (we used 2"x2"x18" wooden stakes)
*Equipment
**Heavy Hammer(s)
**4'spirit Level
**Water level
**tape measure
''Steps to place Column Pad forms''
#Use with the center pad site on the upper level as the reference pad.
#Set a pre-built column pad form in place under the string lines with the inside of the forms under the strings.
#Drive two form stakes next to the outside of one side and one on each of the other three sides. They will need to sit deep enough that the tops of the stakes will be level with (or lower than) the top of the form.
#Level the form.
##Screw one of the stakes (on the side with two) to the side of the form so that the form sits 1/2" above the gravel level. Be sure that the top of the stake is level with (or lower than) the top of the form.
##Use the spirit level to set this side of the form level and screw it in position.
##Use the spirit level to set the opposite side of the form at the same level.
##Check the level on the other two sides and screw them in place.
#Use the water level to set the first level on each of the other pads on the upper level.
#Repeat the remainder of the leveling steps for each form.
#Use the water level to set the level of the center form in the lower level at 24" lower than the upper level pads.
#Complete the leveling steps for this form.
#Use the center form on the lower level for a reference form to set and level the remaining lower level column pad forms.

[[File:Setting Column Pad Forms Diagram.png|thumb|600 px|center]]

===Preparing Column Pad Forms for Reinforced Concrete===
Collect equipment and supplies needed
*Supplies
**16 Pre-built column pad rebar assemblies
**64 rebar chairs
*Equipment
**Rake(s)
**shovel
**tape measure
#Use a rake and shovel to remove about 2" of stone from the inside of the form. (until is 6" deep)
#Pack removed stone around outside of forms to create a fully enclosed 6" deep form.
#Use one prebuilt column pad rebar assembly for each column pad site.
#Center the rebar assembly with 3” gap between assembly and form wall on every side.
#Set rebar chairs under corners of prebuilt column pad rebar assemblies.-Put a stone or some gravel under the chairs if needed to center the rebar so it will sit at about the middle of the finished slab (3" off the floor of the form).

[[File:Preparing Column Pad Sites for Concrete Pouring.png|thumb|600 px|center]]

==Concrete Work==
We are preparing to do the big concrete pour. Using the FreeMind mind map model, this is the node that outlines the dependencies so we can be ready for that. Following sections include instructions for accomplishing them.
[[File:Dependencies for Getting Floors Poured.png|thumb|800px|center]]

===Insulated Outside Wall Support Slabs===
We are planning to put reinforced concrete the full 3' width of the Column Support Pads all the way around the outside of the building. They will be 3-1/2" (2x4 lumber size) deep and will support the two CEB walls that enclose the hay bale insulation. Rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.

====Preparing the rebar reinforcement assemblies====
Rebar Assembly for 13’ Outside Wall pads (make 11 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’6” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 6’4” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 12’6” by 2’6” dimensions.
#Measure and cut (1) 20’ piece of #4 rebar to 12’7” in length.
#Center the 12’7” piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld it into place.
[[File:Rebar for outside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

Rebar Assembly for 9’6” Outside Wall pads (make 2 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 4’7” from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’6” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 4’7” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 9’ by 2’6” dimensions.
#Measure and cut (1) 20’ piece of #4 rebar to 9’1” in length.
#Center the 9’1” piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld it into place.
[[File:Rebar for 9.5' outside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

Rebar Assembly for 7' Outside Wall pads (make 2 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 3’4” from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’6” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 3’4” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 6’6” by 2’6” dimensions.
#Measure and cut (1) 20’ piece of #4 rebar to 6'7" in length.
#Center the 6'7" piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld it into place.
[[File:Rebar for 7' outside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

====Preparing the concrete forms====
Our pouring plan requires these forms relating to the outside wall construction. For those wall pads that are part of our interior pads, additional forms are in other sections. If you are not pouring large interior pads, you will need to adjust the number of interior forms.

Exterior Forms for 13' Wall slabs. (make 10 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(2) 2"x4"x7' pine studs
*(1) piece of scrap lumber,
*(4) 3" screws
*Driver
''Steps to do:''
#Start two screws into the flat side of each end of the piece of scrap lumber.
#Butt the two 7' boards end to end
#Lay the piece of scrap lumber over the seam butt joint.
#Be sure the narrow sides of the boards are lined up evenly with each other.
#Drive the screws in completely to hold the boards in line.

Interior Forms for 13' Wall slabs. (make 5 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(2) 2"x4"x7' pine studs
*Measuring tape
*Pencil
*Saw
*(4) 3" screws
*Driver
''Steps to do:''
#Measure, mark, and cut one board to be 6' long.
#Start two screws into the flat side of each end of the 1' piece of scrap lumber.
#Butt the 6' piece with the other 7' board end to end
#Lay the piece of scrap lumber over the seam butt joint.
#Be sure the narrow sides of the boards are lined up evenly with each other.
#Drive the screws in completely to hold the boards in line.

Forms for Wall slabs on split-level section

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(6) 2"x4"x7' pine studs
*(4) 2"x4"x10' pine studs
*Measuring tape
*Pencil
*Saw
''Steps to do:''
#Measure, mark, and cut (2) 7' boards to be 6' long.
#Measure, mark, and cut (2) 10' boards to be 9'6" long.
#You will use the other boards uncut.

[[File:Exterior Wall Form Boards.png|thumb|600px|center]]

====Setting the forms====

===Narrow Wall Support Slabs===
We will support and stabilize the interior CEB walls with a 12" wide x 3-1/2" deep concrete slab. Rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.

====Preparing Rebar reinforcement assemblies====
Rebar Assembly for all 12” interior wall slabs

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(10) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 3’4” from one end.
#Bend 180⁰ the rebar with a 3” radius.
#Measure and mark so another 180⁰ with a 3” radius will produce 6’6” long assemblies.
#Cut the extra rebar (about 7’) off, leaving enough to tack weld each assembly together.

#Measure and mark (4) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 4’4” from the end.
#Bend 180⁰ with a 3” radius.
#Measure and mark so another 180⁰ with a 3” radius will produce 8’6” long assemblies.
#Cut the extra rebar off, leaving enough to tack weld each assembly together.

#Measure and mark (4) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” from the end.
#Bend 180⁰ with a 3” radius.
#Measure and mark so another 180⁰ with a 3” radius will produce 12’6” long assemblies.
#Use scrap cuttings (about 7’ long) to bridge the gap for each of these assemblies.
[[File:Rebar for 1' inside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

====Preparing the Concrete Forms====
These 12" wide slabs will provide a firm foundation on which to build our interior CEB room-dividing walls. Mostly they use the same sizes of forms you used for the outside walls. If you are pouring in small stages, you won't have build more forms because you can reuse the ones from the outside wall slabs. If you are going to pour all the concrete at once, you will need 7 more of the 13' inside form assemblies, 4 more uncut 7' boards, 2 more 7' boards cut to 6' lengths, 6 more boards cut to 9'6", and two boards cut to 9' in length.
Instructions for preparing all of these boards are found above - in the [[#Insulated Outside Wall Support Slabs/Preparing the Concrete Forms|Outside Wall Slabs]] section.

====Setting the Forms====

===Kitchen and Bath Areas===
The Kitchen and Bath Floor Areas both have a potential for receiving noticeable amounts of water. We consider it advisable to pave them both with concrete and include a central drain. Rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.
====Preparing the Rebar Assemblies====
Rebar Assembly for 16’x13’ slabs (make 2 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (4) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” from the end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Cut the long ends to 7’10” long.
#Overlap the short ends of two L-shaped pieces and measure to make a U shaped assembly with 12’6” between the legs.
#Make two of these assemblies.
#Overlap the legs of the U-shaped assemblies to make a rectangle measuring 15’6” x 12’6”
#Measure and cut (5) pieces of #4 rebar to 15’7” long.
#Measure and cut (7) pieces of #4 rebar to 12’7” long.
#Space and position the cut pieces into a 24” grid across the rectangle.
#Weld them into place.
[[File:Rebar for 16x13 slab.png|thumb|600px|center]]

====Preparing the Concrete forms====
Because we are pouring this all at once, we decided to eliminate some complicated form work by including the equipment area and one room in this slab. This will be a big pour of concrete. It requires about 5 cubic yards of concrete. If you have plenty of time and are working in small batches, you can save over a yard of concrete by building the interior wall forms and pouring only wall-support pads - as shown on the layout.

The large slabs are laid between column pads, using 13' interior form assemblies. If you are pouring all at once, you will need two more of these assemblies, one more board cut to 9'6", and a piece of scrap about 3' long to complete the form work for this area. This, of course, assumes that you already have the exterior forms for the exterior wall slabs prepared. Instructions for preparing all of these are above in the [[#Insulated Outside Wall Support Slabs/Preparing the Concrete Forms|Outside Wall Slabs]]
section.
====Setting the Forms====

===Retaining Wall for Lower Level===
Ideas for this wall have been through several iterations. At present (Oct. 10th), we are planning to lay a 6" footer, 18" wide and 62' long. On top of that, we plan to put a 12" thick wall of bitumen-protected CEB. For the concrete footer, rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.
====Preparing the Rebar Assembly====
Rebar Assembly for Retaining wall footer

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(9) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Scrap #4 rebar to make (1) 6’ pieces and (1) 1’1” piece
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 8’ from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 12” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut (1) 6’ and (1) 1’1” piece of #4 rebar.
#Overlap and weld (1) 20’ length of rebar to each leg.
#Measure and weld the two longer legs together so the resulting assembly is 61’6” long.
#Weld the 6’ piece of rebar between the ends of the two shorter legs so that side is 61’6” long, too.
#Weld (3) 20’ pieces of #4 rebar into an approximately 60’ length of rebar.
#Center the 60’ piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld one end at the center of one end of the rectangle.
#Position the 1’1” piece of rebar across the rectangle to support the free end of the 60’ assembly.
#Weld the short piece to the three long ones.
[[File:Rebar Assembly for Retaining wall.png|thumb|600px|center]]
====Preparing the Concrete Form====

====Setting the Concrete Form====

==CEB Columns==

[[http://ww2.unhabitat.org/programmes/housingpolicy/Images/PDF.gif|UN CEB PDF]]

==CEB Arches==

[[http://ww2.unhabitat.org/programmes/housingpolicy/documents/Vault.pdf|UN Vaults PDF]]

[[http://www.amazon.com/Concrete-Hardness-Hammer-HT-225A-Portable/dp/B0049DDJCK/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1317915942&sr=8-6|Hardness Test Hammer]] for quality assurance

==CEB Floors==

[[http://www.velacreations.com/cebfloors.html|CEB Floor Instructions]]

==Insulated Roof==

2 layers of (16) 11-member 2x6x16' frames will form the insulted roof. One above and one below the bales.

Frames are built with one 16' beam on each end of 9 other 16' beams laid on 24" centers. These roof frames can be built quite quickly at any time labor is available, preferably ahead of time so that they can be installed as soon as the columns are ready to be covered.

Lath 1x2 layed diagonally across the top of the bottom frame at 18 inch intervals to support the bales.

Bales packed close together in a grid.

second layer of 2x6 frames strapped through the bales to the lower layer (details needed here)
For economy, maybe the second layer could be done with 2x4's as they will be well supported and only need to support the metal roofing.

metal roofing applied to the top surface and sides

==Super Insulated Walls==

2.5 foot thick wall.

4x6x12 bricks laid on the 12x4" side in standard wall layup, two walls outside surfaces 2.5' apart.

With air space left on either side, bales are stacked in the center of the wall, creating super insulation between the interior and exterior.

==Heating the HabLab==

I propose a [[http://www.heatkit.com Heatkit]] masonry furnace kit, surrounded by CEB

Hab Lab

2011-10-11T15:38:19Z

Margaret Ida: /* Preparing the Concrete Forms */

The need for all-weather housing to shelter year-round members of the community, located where summers can be unpleasantly hot and winters unpleasantly cold, can be met with superinsulated designs. Here we will examine some possible options and our progress in bring them into existence. Planning tools, instructions, modifications, etc. will be included.

The [[Hab Lab Design Gallery|Design Page]] is a good place to see what has been offered and to post any of your own great ideas. More ideas are great for everybody!

==Survey & Design==
The area on the property for the first group habitation was on a noticeable slope. OSE staff members worked with a home-made water level to take measurements over a 100' square area.

How to make a water level: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nAcT_1T25LM

Ideas submitted for this project are located on the [[Hab Lab Design Gallery]] page.

===Building Orientation===

==Planning==

===Kitchen/Bath Water===

===Utility/Storage Area===

===Heating===
====Source Material====
http://dnr.mo.gov/pubs/pub781.pdf

==Site Preparation==

The Hab Lab is designed to be supported by columns built of CEB (Compressed Earth Block)which are constructed on a reinforced concrete pad. Due to the slope of our site, we designed a lowered section which requires a low retaining wall. Included here are instructions for preparing the site with adequate footings.

Here is a picture with a preliminary excavation layout for the column pad sites and the retaining wall in the Hab Lab.
*When you are laying out the excavation site, be sure to add 5' in each direction for the excavator to work to.

[[File:HabLab Excavation Layout.png|thumb|800 px|center]]
This levels diagram is from our theoretical measurements - we actually wound up with a 2' drop, not a 2'8" drop. That will make only a minor difference in raising the building - changing the size of the retaining wall and removing one or two CEB's at the top of the lower columns to maintain the planned roof pitch.
[[File:Levels Diagram for Hab Lab Site.png|thumb|800 px|center]]

==Foundations & Column Slabs==

===Laying out the Hab Lab excavation site to be square===
''Collect equipment and supplies needed''
*Blueprint of site plan
*(2) 100’ Measuring tapes
*4 3-4’ stakes
*Hammer
*Bright spray paint
''Steps for Staking out the excavation site.''
#Choose a spot approximately 5 feet to the North and 5 feet to the West of the area to be excavated.
#Pound in a stake and spray paint the top foot or two of it.
#Measure due East a distance 10’ longer than the foundation width (total 67’).
#Place and paint another stake.
#Calculate a distance 10’ longer than the foundation length (total 62’).
#Calculate the diagonal measurement of the excavation site [Length(squared) x Width(squared) = Diagonal(squared)] (91'4").
#Measure due South from the Northwest stake the distance calculated in step 6.
#Set the second tape measure on the Northeast stake and measure the diagonal calculated in step 7 going Southwest.
#Set your third stake where the two measured lengths meet each other.
#Paint the stake.
#Measure due South from the Northeast stake the distance calculated in step 6.
#Set the second tape measure on the Northwest stake and measure the diagonal calculated in step 7 going Southeast.
#Set your fouth stake where the two measured lengths meet each other.
#Paint the stake.

*With the site leveled, the foundation holes for the column slabs must be laid out.
*After excavation, the stone fill for the foundation goes into the holes.
*At the same time, the 6" stone floor foundation is spread.

===Concrete forms and rebar reinforcing assemblies===
These can be built well ahead of need whenever volunteers are available.
*You could set up an assembly line effect to do them all at once with several people working together.
*An individual might do one unit at a time.
*An individual might do all the wood cutting at one time, another do all the rebar cutting at another time, another do all the rebar bending at another time.
*A couple of people might work together to get some wooden forms assembled once the pieces are cut, another time, a couple of people might work together to get some rebar assemblies welded.

The following step-by-step instructions are provided for building the forms and the reinforcing rebar assemblies.

[[https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=14oCxZUjs09wGuvaL4QTAII6hRxQpy20TKv7skH3INRWAVlXqtgdrh0D2ggtl&hl=en Assembly sheet for column pad forms]]

[[https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=1_hf2n-l9rCiEss45ZC8ogtMpeQki9fCoYIFdkD5x3lCOwjGh7Gknr-POJrNB&hl=en Rebar plan for column footings]]

===Laying out the locations for the forms on top of the foundation stone===
Once the form and rebar assemblies are built and the foundation stone is in place, the string site plan lay-out must be set up for placing the forms properly over their (now invisible) foundations. If you set your hole locating strings far enough out that the excavation didn't disturb them, this will be simple. It will be even easier if you rolled up your strings before the hole excavation got done and saved them. (See comments below!)

''Collect equipment and supplies needed''
*Blueprint of site plan
*100' tape measure
*Pre-placed marking stakes around outside of foundation site.
*Rolled up pre-used string balls from foundation hole layout
''Steps for Laying out Column Pad Form locations.''
#Measure to check that all pre-placed marking stakes are properly positioned.
#If any are missing or misplaced, replace or reposition them as needed.
#Unroll and retie the strings to their corresponding stakes across the foundation site .

Here's what the layout over the stone should look like.
[[File:HabLab Column Pad Form Layout.png|thumb|600 px|center]]

We had a great plan for this - we would set our stakes out first to mark the hole edges at 4'x4', save the strings and move the stakes in by 6" to 3'x3' for the setting the pad forms.

However, when we tried it in real life - Well...
*We lost a lot of our stakes during the excavation.
*We found the holes tended to come out bigger than we had intended them to be.
*And once the stone was laid over the site, we couldn't see where the foundation holes were located!
We wound up remeasuring and resetting most of the stakes for laying out the pad site grid.
*We dug stone out of two of corners to find the edges of the foundation holes.
*We remeasured and reset corner marking stakes inside those edges.
*We retriangulated with the diagonals to assure the foundation square.
*And we remeasured and reset stakes along all the edges.

So we've rewritten the foundation lay-out plans as they are currently posted. In the current version, we set the stakes at the 3'x3' points to start with so they don't need to be moved. We also emphasized setting them firmly - and safely outside the excavation area.

===Setting the column pad forms===
''Collect equipment and supplies needed''
*Supplies
**16 Pre-built column pad forms
**80 form stakes (we used 2"x2"x18" wooden stakes)
*Equipment
**Heavy Hammer(s)
**4'spirit Level
**Water level
**tape measure
''Steps to place Column Pad forms''
#Use with the center pad site on the upper level as the reference pad.
#Set a pre-built column pad form in place under the string lines with the inside of the forms under the strings.
#Drive two form stakes next to the outside of one side and one on each of the other three sides. They will need to sit deep enough that the tops of the stakes will be level with (or lower than) the top of the form.
#Level the form.
##Screw one of the stakes (on the side with two) to the side of the form so that the form sits 1/2" above the gravel level. Be sure that the top of the stake is level with (or lower than) the top of the form.
##Use the spirit level to set this side of the form level and screw it in position.
##Use the spirit level to set the opposite side of the form at the same level.
##Check the level on the other two sides and screw them in place.
#Use the water level to set the first level on each of the other pads on the upper level.
#Repeat the remainder of the leveling steps for each form.
#Use the water level to set the level of the center form in the lower level at 24" lower than the upper level pads.
#Complete the leveling steps for this form.
#Use the center form on the lower level for a reference form to set and level the remaining lower level column pad forms.

[[File:Setting Column Pad Forms Diagram.png|thumb|600 px|center]]

===Preparing Column Pad Forms for Reinforced Concrete===
Collect equipment and supplies needed
*Supplies
**16 Pre-built column pad rebar assemblies
**64 rebar chairs
*Equipment
**Rake(s)
**shovel
**tape measure
#Use a rake and shovel to remove about 2" of stone from the inside of the form. (until is 6" deep)
#Pack removed stone around outside of forms to create a fully enclosed 6" deep form.
#Use one prebuilt column pad rebar assembly for each column pad site.
#Center the rebar assembly with 3” gap between assembly and form wall on every side.
#Set rebar chairs under corners of prebuilt column pad rebar assemblies.-Put a stone or some gravel under the chairs if needed to center the rebar so it will sit at about the middle of the finished slab (3" off the floor of the form).

[[File:Preparing Column Pad Sites for Concrete Pouring.png|thumb|600 px|center]]

==Concrete Work==
We are preparing to do the big concrete pour. Using the FreeMind mind map model, this is the node that outlines the dependencies so we can be ready for that. Following sections include instructions for accomplishing them.
[[File:Dependencies for Getting Floors Poured.png|thumb|800px|center]]

===Insulated Outside Wall Support Slabs===
We are planning to put reinforced concrete the full 3' width of the Column Support Pads all the way around the outside of the building. They will be 3-1/2" (2x4 lumber size) deep and will support the two CEB walls that enclose the hay bale insulation. Rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.

====Preparing the rebar reinforcement assemblies====
Rebar Assembly for 13’ Outside Wall pads (make 11 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’6” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 6’4” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 12’6” by 2’6” dimensions.
#Measure and cut (1) 20’ piece of #4 rebar to 12’7” in length.
#Center the 12’7” piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld it into place.
[[File:Rebar for outside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

Rebar Assembly for 9’6” Outside Wall pads (make 2 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 4’7” from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’6” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 4’7” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 9’ by 2’6” dimensions.
#Measure and cut (1) 20’ piece of #4 rebar to 9’1” in length.
#Center the 9’1” piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld it into place.
[[File:Rebar for 9.5' outside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

Rebar Assembly for 7' Outside Wall pads (make 2 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 3’4” from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’6” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 3’4” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 6’6” by 2’6” dimensions.
#Measure and cut (1) 20’ piece of #4 rebar to 6'7" in length.
#Center the 6'7" piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld it into place.
[[File:Rebar for 7' outside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

====Preparing the concrete forms====
Our pouring plan requires these forms relating to the outside wall construction. For those wall pads that are part of our interior pads, additional forms are in other sections. If you are not pouring large interior pads, you will need to adjust the number of interior forms.

Exterior Forms for 13' Wall slabs. (make 10 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(2) 2"x4"x7' pine studs
*(1) piece of scrap lumber,
*(4) 3" screws
*Driver
''Steps to do:''
#Start two screws into the flat side of each end of the piece of scrap lumber.
#Butt the two 7' boards end to end
#Lay the piece of scrap lumber over the seam butt joint.
#Be sure the narrow sides of the boards are lined up evenly with each other.
#Drive the screws in completely to hold the boards in line.

Interior Forms for 13' Wall slabs. (make 5 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(2) 2"x4"x7' pine studs
*Measuring tape
*Pencil
*Saw
*(4) 3" screws
*Driver
''Steps to do:''
#Measure, mark, and cut one board to be 6' long.
#Start two screws into the flat side of each end of the 1' piece of scrap lumber.
#Butt the 6' piece with the other 7' board end to end
#Lay the piece of scrap lumber over the seam butt joint.
#Be sure the narrow sides of the boards are lined up evenly with each other.
#Drive the screws in completely to hold the boards in line.

Forms for Wall slabs on split-level section

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(6) 2"x4"x7' pine studs
*(4) 2"x4"x10' pine studs
*Measuring tape
*Pencil
*Saw
''Steps to do:''
#Measure, mark, and cut (2) 7' boards to be 6' long.
#Measure, mark, and cut (2) 10' boards to be 9'6" long.
#You will use the other boards uncut.

[[File:Exterior Wall Form Boards.png|thumb|600px|center]]

====Setting the forms====

===Narrow Wall Support Slabs===
We will support and stabilize the interior CEB walls with a 12" wide x 3-1/2" deep concrete slab. Rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.

====Preparing Rebar reinforcement assemblies====
Rebar Assembly for all 12” interior wall slabs

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(10) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 3’4” from one end.
#Bend 180⁰ the rebar with a 3” radius.
#Measure and mark so another 180⁰ with a 3” radius will produce 6’6” long assemblies.
#Cut the extra rebar (about 7’) off, leaving enough to tack weld each assembly together.

#Measure and mark (4) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 4’4” from the end.
#Bend 180⁰ with a 3” radius.
#Measure and mark so another 180⁰ with a 3” radius will produce 8’6” long assemblies.
#Cut the extra rebar off, leaving enough to tack weld each assembly together.

#Measure and mark (4) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” from the end.
#Bend 180⁰ with a 3” radius.
#Measure and mark so another 180⁰ with a 3” radius will produce 12’6” long assemblies.
#Use scrap cuttings (about 7’ long) to bridge the gap for each of these assemblies.
[[File:Rebar for 1' inside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

====Preparing the Concrete Forms====
These 12" wide slabs will provide a firm foundation on which to build our interior CEB room-dividing walls. Mostly they use the same sizes of forms you used for the outside walls. If you are pouring in small stages, you won't have build more forms because you can reuse the ones from the outside wall slabs. If you are going to pour all the concrete at once, you will need 7 more of the 13' inside form assemblies, 4 more uncut 7' boards, 2 more 7' boards cut to 6' lengths, 6 more boards cut to 9'6", and two boards cut to 9' in length.
Instructions for preparing all of these boards are found above - in the [[#Insulated Outside Wall Support Slabs/Preparing the Concrete Forms|Outside Wall Slabs]] section.

====Setting the Forms====

===Kitchen and Bath Areas===
The Kitchen and Bath Floor Areas both have a potential for receiving noticeable amounts of water. We consider it advisable to pave them both with concrete and include a central drain. Rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.
====Preparing the Rebar Assemblies====
Rebar Assembly for 16’x13’ slabs (make 2 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (4) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” from the end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Cut the long ends to 7’10” long.
#Overlap the short ends of two L-shaped pieces and measure to make a U shaped assembly with 12’6” between the legs.
#Make two of these assemblies.
#Overlap the legs of the U-shaped assemblies to make a rectangle measuring 15’6” x 12’6”
#Measure and cut (5) pieces of #4 rebar to 15’7” long.
#Measure and cut (7) pieces of #4 rebar to 12’7” long.
#Space and position the cut pieces into a 24” grid across the rectangle.
#Weld them into place.
[[File:Rebar for 16x13 slab.png|thumb|600px|center]]

====Preparing the Concrete forms====
Because we are pouring this all at once, we decided to eliminate some complicated form work by including the equipment area and one room in this slab. This will be a big pour of concrete. It requires about 5 cubic yards of concrete. If you have plenty of time and are working in small batches, you can save over a yard of concrete by building the interior wall forms and pouring only wall-support pads - as shown on the layout.

The large slabs are laid between column pads, using 13' interior form assemblies. If you are pouring all at once, you will need two more of these assemblies, one more board cut to 9'6", and a piece of scrap about 3' long to complete the form work for this area. This, of course, assumes that you already have the exterior forms for the exterior wall slabs prepared. Instructions for preparing all of these are above in the [[#Insulated Outside Wall Support Slabs/Preparing the Concrete Forms|Outside Wall Slabs]]
section.

===Retaining Wall for Lower Level===
Ideas for this wall have been through several iterations. At present (Oct. 10th), we are planning to lay a 6" footer, 18" wide and 62' long. On top of that, we plan to put a 12" thick wall of bitumen-protected CEB. For the concrete footer, rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.
====Preparing the Rebar Assembly====
Rebar Assembly for Retaining wall footer

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(9) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Scrap #4 rebar to make (1) 6’ pieces and (1) 1’1” piece
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 8’ from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 12” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut (1) 6’ and (1) 1’1” piece of #4 rebar.
#Overlap and weld (1) 20’ length of rebar to each leg.
#Measure and weld the two longer legs together so the resulting assembly is 61’6” long.
#Weld the 6’ piece of rebar between the ends of the two shorter legs so that side is 61’6” long, too.
#Weld (3) 20’ pieces of #4 rebar into an approximately 60’ length of rebar.
#Center the 60’ piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld one end at the center of one end of the rectangle.
#Position the 1’1” piece of rebar across the rectangle to support the free end of the 60’ assembly.
#Weld the short piece to the three long ones.
[[File:Rebar Assembly for Retaining wall.png|thumb|600px|center]]
====Preparing the Concrete Form====

====Setting the Concrete Form====

==CEB Columns==

[[http://ww2.unhabitat.org/programmes/housingpolicy/Images/PDF.gif|UN CEB PDF]]

==CEB Arches==

[[http://ww2.unhabitat.org/programmes/housingpolicy/documents/Vault.pdf|UN Vaults PDF]]

[[http://www.amazon.com/Concrete-Hardness-Hammer-HT-225A-Portable/dp/B0049DDJCK/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1317915942&sr=8-6|Hardness Test Hammer]] for quality assurance

==CEB Floors==

[[http://www.velacreations.com/cebfloors.html|CEB Floor Instructions]]

==Insulated Roof==

2 layers of (16) 11-member 2x6x16' frames will form the insulted roof. One above and one below the bales.

Frames are built with one 16' beam on each end of 9 other 16' beams laid on 24" centers. These roof frames can be built quite quickly at any time labor is available, preferably ahead of time so that they can be installed as soon as the columns are ready to be covered.

Lath 1x2 layed diagonally across the top of the bottom frame at 18 inch intervals to support the bales.

Bales packed close together in a grid.

second layer of 2x6 frames strapped through the bales to the lower layer (details needed here)
For economy, maybe the second layer could be done with 2x4's as they will be well supported and only need to support the metal roofing.

metal roofing applied to the top surface and sides

==Super Insulated Walls==

2.5 foot thick wall.

4x6x12 bricks laid on the 12x4" side in standard wall layup, two walls outside surfaces 2.5' apart.

With air space left on either side, bales are stacked in the center of the wall, creating super insulation between the interior and exterior.

==Heating the HabLab==

I propose a [[http://www.heatkit.com Heatkit]] masonry furnace kit, surrounded by CEB

Hab Lab

2011-10-11T15:37:09Z

Margaret Ida: /* Preparing the Concrete forms */

The need for all-weather housing to shelter year-round members of the community, located where summers can be unpleasantly hot and winters unpleasantly cold, can be met with superinsulated designs. Here we will examine some possible options and our progress in bring them into existence. Planning tools, instructions, modifications, etc. will be included.

The [[Hab Lab Design Gallery|Design Page]] is a good place to see what has been offered and to post any of your own great ideas. More ideas are great for everybody!

==Survey & Design==
The area on the property for the first group habitation was on a noticeable slope. OSE staff members worked with a home-made water level to take measurements over a 100' square area.

How to make a water level: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nAcT_1T25LM

Ideas submitted for this project are located on the [[Hab Lab Design Gallery]] page.

===Building Orientation===

==Planning==

===Kitchen/Bath Water===

===Utility/Storage Area===

===Heating===
====Source Material====
http://dnr.mo.gov/pubs/pub781.pdf

==Site Preparation==

The Hab Lab is designed to be supported by columns built of CEB (Compressed Earth Block)which are constructed on a reinforced concrete pad. Due to the slope of our site, we designed a lowered section which requires a low retaining wall. Included here are instructions for preparing the site with adequate footings.

Here is a picture with a preliminary excavation layout for the column pad sites and the retaining wall in the Hab Lab.
*When you are laying out the excavation site, be sure to add 5' in each direction for the excavator to work to.

[[File:HabLab Excavation Layout.png|thumb|800 px|center]]
This levels diagram is from our theoretical measurements - we actually wound up with a 2' drop, not a 2'8" drop. That will make only a minor difference in raising the building - changing the size of the retaining wall and removing one or two CEB's at the top of the lower columns to maintain the planned roof pitch.
[[File:Levels Diagram for Hab Lab Site.png|thumb|800 px|center]]

==Foundations & Column Slabs==

===Laying out the Hab Lab excavation site to be square===
''Collect equipment and supplies needed''
*Blueprint of site plan
*(2) 100’ Measuring tapes
*4 3-4’ stakes
*Hammer
*Bright spray paint
''Steps for Staking out the excavation site.''
#Choose a spot approximately 5 feet to the North and 5 feet to the West of the area to be excavated.
#Pound in a stake and spray paint the top foot or two of it.
#Measure due East a distance 10’ longer than the foundation width (total 67’).
#Place and paint another stake.
#Calculate a distance 10’ longer than the foundation length (total 62’).
#Calculate the diagonal measurement of the excavation site [Length(squared) x Width(squared) = Diagonal(squared)] (91'4").
#Measure due South from the Northwest stake the distance calculated in step 6.
#Set the second tape measure on the Northeast stake and measure the diagonal calculated in step 7 going Southwest.
#Set your third stake where the two measured lengths meet each other.
#Paint the stake.
#Measure due South from the Northeast stake the distance calculated in step 6.
#Set the second tape measure on the Northwest stake and measure the diagonal calculated in step 7 going Southeast.
#Set your fouth stake where the two measured lengths meet each other.
#Paint the stake.

*With the site leveled, the foundation holes for the column slabs must be laid out.
*After excavation, the stone fill for the foundation goes into the holes.
*At the same time, the 6" stone floor foundation is spread.

===Concrete forms and rebar reinforcing assemblies===
These can be built well ahead of need whenever volunteers are available.
*You could set up an assembly line effect to do them all at once with several people working together.
*An individual might do one unit at a time.
*An individual might do all the wood cutting at one time, another do all the rebar cutting at another time, another do all the rebar bending at another time.
*A couple of people might work together to get some wooden forms assembled once the pieces are cut, another time, a couple of people might work together to get some rebar assemblies welded.

The following step-by-step instructions are provided for building the forms and the reinforcing rebar assemblies.

[[https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=14oCxZUjs09wGuvaL4QTAII6hRxQpy20TKv7skH3INRWAVlXqtgdrh0D2ggtl&hl=en Assembly sheet for column pad forms]]

[[https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=1_hf2n-l9rCiEss45ZC8ogtMpeQki9fCoYIFdkD5x3lCOwjGh7Gknr-POJrNB&hl=en Rebar plan for column footings]]

===Laying out the locations for the forms on top of the foundation stone===
Once the form and rebar assemblies are built and the foundation stone is in place, the string site plan lay-out must be set up for placing the forms properly over their (now invisible) foundations. If you set your hole locating strings far enough out that the excavation didn't disturb them, this will be simple. It will be even easier if you rolled up your strings before the hole excavation got done and saved them. (See comments below!)

''Collect equipment and supplies needed''
*Blueprint of site plan
*100' tape measure
*Pre-placed marking stakes around outside of foundation site.
*Rolled up pre-used string balls from foundation hole layout
''Steps for Laying out Column Pad Form locations.''
#Measure to check that all pre-placed marking stakes are properly positioned.
#If any are missing or misplaced, replace or reposition them as needed.
#Unroll and retie the strings to their corresponding stakes across the foundation site .

Here's what the layout over the stone should look like.
[[File:HabLab Column Pad Form Layout.png|thumb|600 px|center]]

We had a great plan for this - we would set our stakes out first to mark the hole edges at 4'x4', save the strings and move the stakes in by 6" to 3'x3' for the setting the pad forms.

However, when we tried it in real life - Well...
*We lost a lot of our stakes during the excavation.
*We found the holes tended to come out bigger than we had intended them to be.
*And once the stone was laid over the site, we couldn't see where the foundation holes were located!
We wound up remeasuring and resetting most of the stakes for laying out the pad site grid.
*We dug stone out of two of corners to find the edges of the foundation holes.
*We remeasured and reset corner marking stakes inside those edges.
*We retriangulated with the diagonals to assure the foundation square.
*And we remeasured and reset stakes along all the edges.

So we've rewritten the foundation lay-out plans as they are currently posted. In the current version, we set the stakes at the 3'x3' points to start with so they don't need to be moved. We also emphasized setting them firmly - and safely outside the excavation area.

===Setting the column pad forms===
''Collect equipment and supplies needed''
*Supplies
**16 Pre-built column pad forms
**80 form stakes (we used 2"x2"x18" wooden stakes)
*Equipment
**Heavy Hammer(s)
**4'spirit Level
**Water level
**tape measure
''Steps to place Column Pad forms''
#Use with the center pad site on the upper level as the reference pad.
#Set a pre-built column pad form in place under the string lines with the inside of the forms under the strings.
#Drive two form stakes next to the outside of one side and one on each of the other three sides. They will need to sit deep enough that the tops of the stakes will be level with (or lower than) the top of the form.
#Level the form.
##Screw one of the stakes (on the side with two) to the side of the form so that the form sits 1/2" above the gravel level. Be sure that the top of the stake is level with (or lower than) the top of the form.
##Use the spirit level to set this side of the form level and screw it in position.
##Use the spirit level to set the opposite side of the form at the same level.
##Check the level on the other two sides and screw them in place.
#Use the water level to set the first level on each of the other pads on the upper level.
#Repeat the remainder of the leveling steps for each form.
#Use the water level to set the level of the center form in the lower level at 24" lower than the upper level pads.
#Complete the leveling steps for this form.
#Use the center form on the lower level for a reference form to set and level the remaining lower level column pad forms.

[[File:Setting Column Pad Forms Diagram.png|thumb|600 px|center]]

===Preparing Column Pad Forms for Reinforced Concrete===
Collect equipment and supplies needed
*Supplies
**16 Pre-built column pad rebar assemblies
**64 rebar chairs
*Equipment
**Rake(s)
**shovel
**tape measure
#Use a rake and shovel to remove about 2" of stone from the inside of the form. (until is 6" deep)
#Pack removed stone around outside of forms to create a fully enclosed 6" deep form.
#Use one prebuilt column pad rebar assembly for each column pad site.
#Center the rebar assembly with 3” gap between assembly and form wall on every side.
#Set rebar chairs under corners of prebuilt column pad rebar assemblies.-Put a stone or some gravel under the chairs if needed to center the rebar so it will sit at about the middle of the finished slab (3" off the floor of the form).

[[File:Preparing Column Pad Sites for Concrete Pouring.png|thumb|600 px|center]]

==Concrete Work==
We are preparing to do the big concrete pour. Using the FreeMind mind map model, this is the node that outlines the dependencies so we can be ready for that. Following sections include instructions for accomplishing them.
[[File:Dependencies for Getting Floors Poured.png|thumb|800px|center]]

===Insulated Outside Wall Support Slabs===
We are planning to put reinforced concrete the full 3' width of the Column Support Pads all the way around the outside of the building. They will be 3-1/2" (2x4 lumber size) deep and will support the two CEB walls that enclose the hay bale insulation. Rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.

====Preparing the rebar reinforcement assemblies====
Rebar Assembly for 13’ Outside Wall pads (make 11 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’6” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 6’4” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 12’6” by 2’6” dimensions.
#Measure and cut (1) 20’ piece of #4 rebar to 12’7” in length.
#Center the 12’7” piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld it into place.
[[File:Rebar for outside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

Rebar Assembly for 9’6” Outside Wall pads (make 2 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 4’7” from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’6” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 4’7” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 9’ by 2’6” dimensions.
#Measure and cut (1) 20’ piece of #4 rebar to 9’1” in length.
#Center the 9’1” piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld it into place.
[[File:Rebar for 9.5' outside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

Rebar Assembly for 7' Outside Wall pads (make 2 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 3’4” from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’6” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 3’4” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 6’6” by 2’6” dimensions.
#Measure and cut (1) 20’ piece of #4 rebar to 6'7" in length.
#Center the 6'7" piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld it into place.
[[File:Rebar for 7' outside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

====Preparing the concrete forms====
Our pouring plan requires these forms relating to the outside wall construction. For those wall pads that are part of our interior pads, additional forms are in other sections. If you are not pouring large interior pads, you will need to adjust the number of interior forms.

Exterior Forms for 13' Wall slabs. (make 10 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(2) 2"x4"x7' pine studs
*(1) piece of scrap lumber,
*(4) 3" screws
*Driver
''Steps to do:''
#Start two screws into the flat side of each end of the piece of scrap lumber.
#Butt the two 7' boards end to end
#Lay the piece of scrap lumber over the seam butt joint.
#Be sure the narrow sides of the boards are lined up evenly with each other.
#Drive the screws in completely to hold the boards in line.

Interior Forms for 13' Wall slabs. (make 5 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(2) 2"x4"x7' pine studs
*Measuring tape
*Pencil
*Saw
*(4) 3" screws
*Driver
''Steps to do:''
#Measure, mark, and cut one board to be 6' long.
#Start two screws into the flat side of each end of the 1' piece of scrap lumber.
#Butt the 6' piece with the other 7' board end to end
#Lay the piece of scrap lumber over the seam butt joint.
#Be sure the narrow sides of the boards are lined up evenly with each other.
#Drive the screws in completely to hold the boards in line.

Forms for Wall slabs on split-level section

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(6) 2"x4"x7' pine studs
*(4) 2"x4"x10' pine studs
*Measuring tape
*Pencil
*Saw
''Steps to do:''
#Measure, mark, and cut (2) 7' boards to be 6' long.
#Measure, mark, and cut (2) 10' boards to be 9'6" long.
#You will use the other boards uncut.

[[File:Exterior Wall Form Boards.png|thumb|600px|center]]

====Setting the forms====

===Narrow Wall Support Slabs===
We will support and stabilize the interior CEB walls with a 12" wide x 3-1/2" deep concrete slab. Rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.

====Preparing Rebar reinforcement assemblies====
Rebar Assembly for all 12” interior wall slabs

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(10) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 3’4” from one end.
#Bend 180⁰ the rebar with a 3” radius.
#Measure and mark so another 180⁰ with a 3” radius will produce 6’6” long assemblies.
#Cut the extra rebar (about 7’) off, leaving enough to tack weld each assembly together.

#Measure and mark (4) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 4’4” from the end.
#Bend 180⁰ with a 3” radius.
#Measure and mark so another 180⁰ with a 3” radius will produce 8’6” long assemblies.
#Cut the extra rebar off, leaving enough to tack weld each assembly together.

#Measure and mark (4) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” from the end.
#Bend 180⁰ with a 3” radius.
#Measure and mark so another 180⁰ with a 3” radius will produce 12’6” long assemblies.
#Use scrap cuttings (about 7’ long) to bridge the gap for each of these assemblies.
[[File:Rebar for 1' inside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

====Preparing the Concrete Forms====
These 12" wide slabs will provide a firm foundation on which to build our interior CEB room-dividing walls. Mostly they use the same sizes of forms you used for the outside walls. If you are pouring in small stages, you won't have build more forms because you can reuse the ones from the outside wall slabs. If you are going to pour all the concrete at once, you will need 7 more of the 13' inside form assemblies, 4 more uncut 7' boards, 2 more 7' boards cut to 6' lengths, 6 more boards cut to 9'6", and two boards cut to 9' in length.
Instructions for preparing all of these boards are found above - in the section on exterior wall pads.

====Setting the Forms====

===Kitchen and Bath Areas===
The Kitchen and Bath Floor Areas both have a potential for receiving noticeable amounts of water. We consider it advisable to pave them both with concrete and include a central drain. Rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.
====Preparing the Rebar Assemblies====
Rebar Assembly for 16’x13’ slabs (make 2 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (4) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” from the end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Cut the long ends to 7’10” long.
#Overlap the short ends of two L-shaped pieces and measure to make a U shaped assembly with 12’6” between the legs.
#Make two of these assemblies.
#Overlap the legs of the U-shaped assemblies to make a rectangle measuring 15’6” x 12’6”
#Measure and cut (5) pieces of #4 rebar to 15’7” long.
#Measure and cut (7) pieces of #4 rebar to 12’7” long.
#Space and position the cut pieces into a 24” grid across the rectangle.
#Weld them into place.
[[File:Rebar for 16x13 slab.png|thumb|600px|center]]

====Preparing the Concrete forms====
Because we are pouring this all at once, we decided to eliminate some complicated form work by including the equipment area and one room in this slab. This will be a big pour of concrete. It requires about 5 cubic yards of concrete. If you have plenty of time and are working in small batches, you can save over a yard of concrete by building the interior wall forms and pouring only wall-support pads - as shown on the layout.

The large slabs are laid between column pads, using 13' interior form assemblies. If you are pouring all at once, you will need two more of these assemblies, one more board cut to 9'6", and a piece of scrap about 3' long to complete the form work for this area. This, of course, assumes that you already have the exterior forms for the exterior wall slabs prepared. Instructions for preparing all of these are above in the [[#Insulated Outside Wall Support Slabs/Preparing the Concrete Forms|Outside Wall Slabs]]
section.

===Retaining Wall for Lower Level===
Ideas for this wall have been through several iterations. At present (Oct. 10th), we are planning to lay a 6" footer, 18" wide and 62' long. On top of that, we plan to put a 12" thick wall of bitumen-protected CEB. For the concrete footer, rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.
====Preparing the Rebar Assembly====
Rebar Assembly for Retaining wall footer

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(9) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Scrap #4 rebar to make (1) 6’ pieces and (1) 1’1” piece
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 8’ from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 12” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut (1) 6’ and (1) 1’1” piece of #4 rebar.
#Overlap and weld (1) 20’ length of rebar to each leg.
#Measure and weld the two longer legs together so the resulting assembly is 61’6” long.
#Weld the 6’ piece of rebar between the ends of the two shorter legs so that side is 61’6” long, too.
#Weld (3) 20’ pieces of #4 rebar into an approximately 60’ length of rebar.
#Center the 60’ piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld one end at the center of one end of the rectangle.
#Position the 1’1” piece of rebar across the rectangle to support the free end of the 60’ assembly.
#Weld the short piece to the three long ones.
[[File:Rebar Assembly for Retaining wall.png|thumb|600px|center]]
====Preparing the Concrete Form====

====Setting the Concrete Form====

==CEB Columns==

[[http://ww2.unhabitat.org/programmes/housingpolicy/Images/PDF.gif|UN CEB PDF]]

==CEB Arches==

[[http://ww2.unhabitat.org/programmes/housingpolicy/documents/Vault.pdf|UN Vaults PDF]]

[[http://www.amazon.com/Concrete-Hardness-Hammer-HT-225A-Portable/dp/B0049DDJCK/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1317915942&sr=8-6|Hardness Test Hammer]] for quality assurance

==CEB Floors==

[[http://www.velacreations.com/cebfloors.html|CEB Floor Instructions]]

==Insulated Roof==

2 layers of (16) 11-member 2x6x16' frames will form the insulted roof. One above and one below the bales.

Frames are built with one 16' beam on each end of 9 other 16' beams laid on 24" centers. These roof frames can be built quite quickly at any time labor is available, preferably ahead of time so that they can be installed as soon as the columns are ready to be covered.

Lath 1x2 layed diagonally across the top of the bottom frame at 18 inch intervals to support the bales.

Bales packed close together in a grid.

second layer of 2x6 frames strapped through the bales to the lower layer (details needed here)
For economy, maybe the second layer could be done with 2x4's as they will be well supported and only need to support the metal roofing.

metal roofing applied to the top surface and sides

==Super Insulated Walls==

2.5 foot thick wall.

4x6x12 bricks laid on the 12x4" side in standard wall layup, two walls outside surfaces 2.5' apart.

With air space left on either side, bales are stacked in the center of the wall, creating super insulation between the interior and exterior.

==Heating the HabLab==

I propose a [[http://www.heatkit.com Heatkit]] masonry furnace kit, surrounded by CEB

Hab Lab

2011-10-11T15:35:20Z

Margaret Ida: /* Preparing the Concrete forms */

The need for all-weather housing to shelter year-round members of the community, located where summers can be unpleasantly hot and winters unpleasantly cold, can be met with superinsulated designs. Here we will examine some possible options and our progress in bring them into existence. Planning tools, instructions, modifications, etc. will be included.

The [[Hab Lab Design Gallery|Design Page]] is a good place to see what has been offered and to post any of your own great ideas. More ideas are great for everybody!

==Survey & Design==
The area on the property for the first group habitation was on a noticeable slope. OSE staff members worked with a home-made water level to take measurements over a 100' square area.

How to make a water level: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nAcT_1T25LM

Ideas submitted for this project are located on the [[Hab Lab Design Gallery]] page.

===Building Orientation===

==Planning==

===Kitchen/Bath Water===

===Utility/Storage Area===

===Heating===
====Source Material====
http://dnr.mo.gov/pubs/pub781.pdf

==Site Preparation==

The Hab Lab is designed to be supported by columns built of CEB (Compressed Earth Block)which are constructed on a reinforced concrete pad. Due to the slope of our site, we designed a lowered section which requires a low retaining wall. Included here are instructions for preparing the site with adequate footings.

Here is a picture with a preliminary excavation layout for the column pad sites and the retaining wall in the Hab Lab.
*When you are laying out the excavation site, be sure to add 5' in each direction for the excavator to work to.

[[File:HabLab Excavation Layout.png|thumb|800 px|center]]
This levels diagram is from our theoretical measurements - we actually wound up with a 2' drop, not a 2'8" drop. That will make only a minor difference in raising the building - changing the size of the retaining wall and removing one or two CEB's at the top of the lower columns to maintain the planned roof pitch.
[[File:Levels Diagram for Hab Lab Site.png|thumb|800 px|center]]

==Foundations & Column Slabs==

===Laying out the Hab Lab excavation site to be square===
''Collect equipment and supplies needed''
*Blueprint of site plan
*(2) 100’ Measuring tapes
*4 3-4’ stakes
*Hammer
*Bright spray paint
''Steps for Staking out the excavation site.''
#Choose a spot approximately 5 feet to the North and 5 feet to the West of the area to be excavated.
#Pound in a stake and spray paint the top foot or two of it.
#Measure due East a distance 10’ longer than the foundation width (total 67’).
#Place and paint another stake.
#Calculate a distance 10’ longer than the foundation length (total 62’).
#Calculate the diagonal measurement of the excavation site [Length(squared) x Width(squared) = Diagonal(squared)] (91'4").
#Measure due South from the Northwest stake the distance calculated in step 6.
#Set the second tape measure on the Northeast stake and measure the diagonal calculated in step 7 going Southwest.
#Set your third stake where the two measured lengths meet each other.
#Paint the stake.
#Measure due South from the Northeast stake the distance calculated in step 6.
#Set the second tape measure on the Northwest stake and measure the diagonal calculated in step 7 going Southeast.
#Set your fouth stake where the two measured lengths meet each other.
#Paint the stake.

*With the site leveled, the foundation holes for the column slabs must be laid out.
*After excavation, the stone fill for the foundation goes into the holes.
*At the same time, the 6" stone floor foundation is spread.

===Concrete forms and rebar reinforcing assemblies===
These can be built well ahead of need whenever volunteers are available.
*You could set up an assembly line effect to do them all at once with several people working together.
*An individual might do one unit at a time.
*An individual might do all the wood cutting at one time, another do all the rebar cutting at another time, another do all the rebar bending at another time.
*A couple of people might work together to get some wooden forms assembled once the pieces are cut, another time, a couple of people might work together to get some rebar assemblies welded.

The following step-by-step instructions are provided for building the forms and the reinforcing rebar assemblies.

[[https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=14oCxZUjs09wGuvaL4QTAII6hRxQpy20TKv7skH3INRWAVlXqtgdrh0D2ggtl&hl=en Assembly sheet for column pad forms]]

[[https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=1_hf2n-l9rCiEss45ZC8ogtMpeQki9fCoYIFdkD5x3lCOwjGh7Gknr-POJrNB&hl=en Rebar plan for column footings]]

===Laying out the locations for the forms on top of the foundation stone===
Once the form and rebar assemblies are built and the foundation stone is in place, the string site plan lay-out must be set up for placing the forms properly over their (now invisible) foundations. If you set your hole locating strings far enough out that the excavation didn't disturb them, this will be simple. It will be even easier if you rolled up your strings before the hole excavation got done and saved them. (See comments below!)

''Collect equipment and supplies needed''
*Blueprint of site plan
*100' tape measure
*Pre-placed marking stakes around outside of foundation site.
*Rolled up pre-used string balls from foundation hole layout
''Steps for Laying out Column Pad Form locations.''
#Measure to check that all pre-placed marking stakes are properly positioned.
#If any are missing or misplaced, replace or reposition them as needed.
#Unroll and retie the strings to their corresponding stakes across the foundation site .

Here's what the layout over the stone should look like.
[[File:HabLab Column Pad Form Layout.png|thumb|600 px|center]]

We had a great plan for this - we would set our stakes out first to mark the hole edges at 4'x4', save the strings and move the stakes in by 6" to 3'x3' for the setting the pad forms.

However, when we tried it in real life - Well...
*We lost a lot of our stakes during the excavation.
*We found the holes tended to come out bigger than we had intended them to be.
*And once the stone was laid over the site, we couldn't see where the foundation holes were located!
We wound up remeasuring and resetting most of the stakes for laying out the pad site grid.
*We dug stone out of two of corners to find the edges of the foundation holes.
*We remeasured and reset corner marking stakes inside those edges.
*We retriangulated with the diagonals to assure the foundation square.
*And we remeasured and reset stakes along all the edges.

So we've rewritten the foundation lay-out plans as they are currently posted. In the current version, we set the stakes at the 3'x3' points to start with so they don't need to be moved. We also emphasized setting them firmly - and safely outside the excavation area.

===Setting the column pad forms===
''Collect equipment and supplies needed''
*Supplies
**16 Pre-built column pad forms
**80 form stakes (we used 2"x2"x18" wooden stakes)
*Equipment
**Heavy Hammer(s)
**4'spirit Level
**Water level
**tape measure
''Steps to place Column Pad forms''
#Use with the center pad site on the upper level as the reference pad.
#Set a pre-built column pad form in place under the string lines with the inside of the forms under the strings.
#Drive two form stakes next to the outside of one side and one on each of the other three sides. They will need to sit deep enough that the tops of the stakes will be level with (or lower than) the top of the form.
#Level the form.
##Screw one of the stakes (on the side with two) to the side of the form so that the form sits 1/2" above the gravel level. Be sure that the top of the stake is level with (or lower than) the top of the form.
##Use the spirit level to set this side of the form level and screw it in position.
##Use the spirit level to set the opposite side of the form at the same level.
##Check the level on the other two sides and screw them in place.
#Use the water level to set the first level on each of the other pads on the upper level.
#Repeat the remainder of the leveling steps for each form.
#Use the water level to set the level of the center form in the lower level at 24" lower than the upper level pads.
#Complete the leveling steps for this form.
#Use the center form on the lower level for a reference form to set and level the remaining lower level column pad forms.

[[File:Setting Column Pad Forms Diagram.png|thumb|600 px|center]]

===Preparing Column Pad Forms for Reinforced Concrete===
Collect equipment and supplies needed
*Supplies
**16 Pre-built column pad rebar assemblies
**64 rebar chairs
*Equipment
**Rake(s)
**shovel
**tape measure
#Use a rake and shovel to remove about 2" of stone from the inside of the form. (until is 6" deep)
#Pack removed stone around outside of forms to create a fully enclosed 6" deep form.
#Use one prebuilt column pad rebar assembly for each column pad site.
#Center the rebar assembly with 3” gap between assembly and form wall on every side.
#Set rebar chairs under corners of prebuilt column pad rebar assemblies.-Put a stone or some gravel under the chairs if needed to center the rebar so it will sit at about the middle of the finished slab (3" off the floor of the form).

[[File:Preparing Column Pad Sites for Concrete Pouring.png|thumb|600 px|center]]

==Concrete Work==
We are preparing to do the big concrete pour. Using the FreeMind mind map model, this is the node that outlines the dependencies so we can be ready for that. Following sections include instructions for accomplishing them.
[[File:Dependencies for Getting Floors Poured.png|thumb|800px|center]]

===Insulated Outside Wall Support Slabs===
We are planning to put reinforced concrete the full 3' width of the Column Support Pads all the way around the outside of the building. They will be 3-1/2" (2x4 lumber size) deep and will support the two CEB walls that enclose the hay bale insulation. Rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.

====Preparing the rebar reinforcement assemblies====
Rebar Assembly for 13’ Outside Wall pads (make 11 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’6” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 6’4” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 12’6” by 2’6” dimensions.
#Measure and cut (1) 20’ piece of #4 rebar to 12’7” in length.
#Center the 12’7” piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld it into place.
[[File:Rebar for outside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

Rebar Assembly for 9’6” Outside Wall pads (make 2 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 4’7” from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’6” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 4’7” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 9’ by 2’6” dimensions.
#Measure and cut (1) 20’ piece of #4 rebar to 9’1” in length.
#Center the 9’1” piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld it into place.
[[File:Rebar for 9.5' outside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

Rebar Assembly for 7' Outside Wall pads (make 2 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 3’4” from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’6” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 3’4” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 6’6” by 2’6” dimensions.
#Measure and cut (1) 20’ piece of #4 rebar to 6'7" in length.
#Center the 6'7" piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld it into place.
[[File:Rebar for 7' outside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

====Preparing the concrete forms====
Our pouring plan requires these forms relating to the outside wall construction. For those wall pads that are part of our interior pads, additional forms are in other sections. If you are not pouring large interior pads, you will need to adjust the number of interior forms.

Exterior Forms for 13' Wall slabs. (make 10 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(2) 2"x4"x7' pine studs
*(1) piece of scrap lumber,
*(4) 3" screws
*Driver
''Steps to do:''
#Start two screws into the flat side of each end of the piece of scrap lumber.
#Butt the two 7' boards end to end
#Lay the piece of scrap lumber over the seam butt joint.
#Be sure the narrow sides of the boards are lined up evenly with each other.
#Drive the screws in completely to hold the boards in line.

Interior Forms for 13' Wall slabs. (make 5 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(2) 2"x4"x7' pine studs
*Measuring tape
*Pencil
*Saw
*(4) 3" screws
*Driver
''Steps to do:''
#Measure, mark, and cut one board to be 6' long.
#Start two screws into the flat side of each end of the 1' piece of scrap lumber.
#Butt the 6' piece with the other 7' board end to end
#Lay the piece of scrap lumber over the seam butt joint.
#Be sure the narrow sides of the boards are lined up evenly with each other.
#Drive the screws in completely to hold the boards in line.

Forms for Wall slabs on split-level section

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(6) 2"x4"x7' pine studs
*(4) 2"x4"x10' pine studs
*Measuring tape
*Pencil
*Saw
''Steps to do:''
#Measure, mark, and cut (2) 7' boards to be 6' long.
#Measure, mark, and cut (2) 10' boards to be 9'6" long.
#You will use the other boards uncut.

[[File:Exterior Wall Form Boards.png|thumb|600px|center]]

====Setting the forms====

===Narrow Wall Support Slabs===
We will support and stabilize the interior CEB walls with a 12" wide x 3-1/2" deep concrete slab. Rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.

====Preparing Rebar reinforcement assemblies====
Rebar Assembly for all 12” interior wall slabs

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(10) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 3’4” from one end.
#Bend 180⁰ the rebar with a 3” radius.
#Measure and mark so another 180⁰ with a 3” radius will produce 6’6” long assemblies.
#Cut the extra rebar (about 7’) off, leaving enough to tack weld each assembly together.

#Measure and mark (4) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 4’4” from the end.
#Bend 180⁰ with a 3” radius.
#Measure and mark so another 180⁰ with a 3” radius will produce 8’6” long assemblies.
#Cut the extra rebar off, leaving enough to tack weld each assembly together.

#Measure and mark (4) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” from the end.
#Bend 180⁰ with a 3” radius.
#Measure and mark so another 180⁰ with a 3” radius will produce 12’6” long assemblies.
#Use scrap cuttings (about 7’ long) to bridge the gap for each of these assemblies.
[[File:Rebar for 1' inside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

====Preparing the Concrete Forms====
These 12" wide slabs will provide a firm foundation on which to build our interior CEB room-dividing walls. Mostly they use the same sizes of forms you used for the outside walls. If you are pouring in small stages, you won't have build more forms because you can reuse the ones from the outside wall slabs. If you are going to pour all the concrete at once, you will need 7 more of the 13' inside form assemblies, 4 more uncut 7' boards, 2 more 7' boards cut to 6' lengths, 6 more boards cut to 9'6", and two boards cut to 9' in length.
Instructions for preparing all of these boards are found above - in the section on exterior wall pads.

====Setting the Forms====

===Kitchen and Bath Areas===
The Kitchen and Bath Floor Areas both have a potential for receiving noticeable amounts of water. We consider it advisable to pave them both with concrete and include a central drain. Rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.
====Preparing the Rebar Assemblies====
Rebar Assembly for 16’x13’ slabs (make 2 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (4) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” from the end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Cut the long ends to 7’10” long.
#Overlap the short ends of two L-shaped pieces and measure to make a U shaped assembly with 12’6” between the legs.
#Make two of these assemblies.
#Overlap the legs of the U-shaped assemblies to make a rectangle measuring 15’6” x 12’6”
#Measure and cut (5) pieces of #4 rebar to 15’7” long.
#Measure and cut (7) pieces of #4 rebar to 12’7” long.
#Space and position the cut pieces into a 24” grid across the rectangle.
#Weld them into place.
[[File:Rebar for 16x13 slab.png|thumb|600px|center]]

====Preparing the Concrete forms====
Because we are pouring this all at once, we decided to eliminate some complicated form work by including the equipment area and one room in this slab. This will be a big pour of concrete. It requires about 5 cubic yards of concrete. If you have plenty of time and are working in small batches, you can save over a yard of concrete by building the interior wall forms and pouring only wall-support pads - as shown on the layout.

The large slabs are laid between column pads, using 13' interior form assemblies. If you are pouring all at once, you will need two more of these assemblies, one more board cut to 9'6", and a piece of scrap about 3' long to complete the form work for this area. This, of course, assumes that you already have the exterior forms for the exterior wall slabs prepared. Instructions for preparing all of these are above in the [[#Insulated Outside Wall Support Slabs|Outside Wall Slabs]]
section.

===Retaining Wall for Lower Level===
Ideas for this wall have been through several iterations. At present (Oct. 10th), we are planning to lay a 6" footer, 18" wide and 62' long. On top of that, we plan to put a 12" thick wall of bitumen-protected CEB. For the concrete footer, rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.
====Preparing the Rebar Assembly====
Rebar Assembly for Retaining wall footer

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(9) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Scrap #4 rebar to make (1) 6’ pieces and (1) 1’1” piece
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 8’ from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 12” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut (1) 6’ and (1) 1’1” piece of #4 rebar.
#Overlap and weld (1) 20’ length of rebar to each leg.
#Measure and weld the two longer legs together so the resulting assembly is 61’6” long.
#Weld the 6’ piece of rebar between the ends of the two shorter legs so that side is 61’6” long, too.
#Weld (3) 20’ pieces of #4 rebar into an approximately 60’ length of rebar.
#Center the 60’ piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld one end at the center of one end of the rectangle.
#Position the 1’1” piece of rebar across the rectangle to support the free end of the 60’ assembly.
#Weld the short piece to the three long ones.
[[File:Rebar Assembly for Retaining wall.png|thumb|600px|center]]
====Preparing the Concrete Form====

====Setting the Concrete Form====

==CEB Columns==

[[http://ww2.unhabitat.org/programmes/housingpolicy/Images/PDF.gif|UN CEB PDF]]

==CEB Arches==

[[http://ww2.unhabitat.org/programmes/housingpolicy/documents/Vault.pdf|UN Vaults PDF]]

[[http://www.amazon.com/Concrete-Hardness-Hammer-HT-225A-Portable/dp/B0049DDJCK/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1317915942&sr=8-6|Hardness Test Hammer]] for quality assurance

==CEB Floors==

[[http://www.velacreations.com/cebfloors.html|CEB Floor Instructions]]

==Insulated Roof==

2 layers of (16) 11-member 2x6x16' frames will form the insulted roof. One above and one below the bales.

Frames are built with one 16' beam on each end of 9 other 16' beams laid on 24" centers. These roof frames can be built quite quickly at any time labor is available, preferably ahead of time so that they can be installed as soon as the columns are ready to be covered.

Lath 1x2 layed diagonally across the top of the bottom frame at 18 inch intervals to support the bales.

Bales packed close together in a grid.

second layer of 2x6 frames strapped through the bales to the lower layer (details needed here)
For economy, maybe the second layer could be done with 2x4's as they will be well supported and only need to support the metal roofing.

metal roofing applied to the top surface and sides

==Super Insulated Walls==

2.5 foot thick wall.

4x6x12 bricks laid on the 12x4" side in standard wall layup, two walls outside surfaces 2.5' apart.

With air space left on either side, bales are stacked in the center of the wall, creating super insulation between the interior and exterior.

==Heating the HabLab==

I propose a [[http://www.heatkit.com Heatkit]] masonry furnace kit, surrounded by CEB

Hab Lab

2011-10-11T15:32:04Z

Margaret Ida: /* Retaining Wall for Lower Level */

The need for all-weather housing to shelter year-round members of the community, located where summers can be unpleasantly hot and winters unpleasantly cold, can be met with superinsulated designs. Here we will examine some possible options and our progress in bring them into existence. Planning tools, instructions, modifications, etc. will be included.

The [[Hab Lab Design Gallery|Design Page]] is a good place to see what has been offered and to post any of your own great ideas. More ideas are great for everybody!

==Survey & Design==
The area on the property for the first group habitation was on a noticeable slope. OSE staff members worked with a home-made water level to take measurements over a 100' square area.

How to make a water level: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nAcT_1T25LM

Ideas submitted for this project are located on the [[Hab Lab Design Gallery]] page.

===Building Orientation===

==Planning==

===Kitchen/Bath Water===

===Utility/Storage Area===

===Heating===
====Source Material====
http://dnr.mo.gov/pubs/pub781.pdf

==Site Preparation==

The Hab Lab is designed to be supported by columns built of CEB (Compressed Earth Block)which are constructed on a reinforced concrete pad. Due to the slope of our site, we designed a lowered section which requires a low retaining wall. Included here are instructions for preparing the site with adequate footings.

Here is a picture with a preliminary excavation layout for the column pad sites and the retaining wall in the Hab Lab.
*When you are laying out the excavation site, be sure to add 5' in each direction for the excavator to work to.

[[File:HabLab Excavation Layout.png|thumb|800 px|center]]
This levels diagram is from our theoretical measurements - we actually wound up with a 2' drop, not a 2'8" drop. That will make only a minor difference in raising the building - changing the size of the retaining wall and removing one or two CEB's at the top of the lower columns to maintain the planned roof pitch.
[[File:Levels Diagram for Hab Lab Site.png|thumb|800 px|center]]

==Foundations & Column Slabs==

===Laying out the Hab Lab excavation site to be square===
''Collect equipment and supplies needed''
*Blueprint of site plan
*(2) 100’ Measuring tapes
*4 3-4’ stakes
*Hammer
*Bright spray paint
''Steps for Staking out the excavation site.''
#Choose a spot approximately 5 feet to the North and 5 feet to the West of the area to be excavated.
#Pound in a stake and spray paint the top foot or two of it.
#Measure due East a distance 10’ longer than the foundation width (total 67’).
#Place and paint another stake.
#Calculate a distance 10’ longer than the foundation length (total 62’).
#Calculate the diagonal measurement of the excavation site [Length(squared) x Width(squared) = Diagonal(squared)] (91'4").
#Measure due South from the Northwest stake the distance calculated in step 6.
#Set the second tape measure on the Northeast stake and measure the diagonal calculated in step 7 going Southwest.
#Set your third stake where the two measured lengths meet each other.
#Paint the stake.
#Measure due South from the Northeast stake the distance calculated in step 6.
#Set the second tape measure on the Northwest stake and measure the diagonal calculated in step 7 going Southeast.
#Set your fouth stake where the two measured lengths meet each other.
#Paint the stake.

*With the site leveled, the foundation holes for the column slabs must be laid out.
*After excavation, the stone fill for the foundation goes into the holes.
*At the same time, the 6" stone floor foundation is spread.

===Concrete forms and rebar reinforcing assemblies===
These can be built well ahead of need whenever volunteers are available.
*You could set up an assembly line effect to do them all at once with several people working together.
*An individual might do one unit at a time.
*An individual might do all the wood cutting at one time, another do all the rebar cutting at another time, another do all the rebar bending at another time.
*A couple of people might work together to get some wooden forms assembled once the pieces are cut, another time, a couple of people might work together to get some rebar assemblies welded.

The following step-by-step instructions are provided for building the forms and the reinforcing rebar assemblies.

[[https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=14oCxZUjs09wGuvaL4QTAII6hRxQpy20TKv7skH3INRWAVlXqtgdrh0D2ggtl&hl=en Assembly sheet for column pad forms]]

[[https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=1_hf2n-l9rCiEss45ZC8ogtMpeQki9fCoYIFdkD5x3lCOwjGh7Gknr-POJrNB&hl=en Rebar plan for column footings]]

===Laying out the locations for the forms on top of the foundation stone===
Once the form and rebar assemblies are built and the foundation stone is in place, the string site plan lay-out must be set up for placing the forms properly over their (now invisible) foundations. If you set your hole locating strings far enough out that the excavation didn't disturb them, this will be simple. It will be even easier if you rolled up your strings before the hole excavation got done and saved them. (See comments below!)

''Collect equipment and supplies needed''
*Blueprint of site plan
*100' tape measure
*Pre-placed marking stakes around outside of foundation site.
*Rolled up pre-used string balls from foundation hole layout
''Steps for Laying out Column Pad Form locations.''
#Measure to check that all pre-placed marking stakes are properly positioned.
#If any are missing or misplaced, replace or reposition them as needed.
#Unroll and retie the strings to their corresponding stakes across the foundation site .

Here's what the layout over the stone should look like.
[[File:HabLab Column Pad Form Layout.png|thumb|600 px|center]]

We had a great plan for this - we would set our stakes out first to mark the hole edges at 4'x4', save the strings and move the stakes in by 6" to 3'x3' for the setting the pad forms.

However, when we tried it in real life - Well...
*We lost a lot of our stakes during the excavation.
*We found the holes tended to come out bigger than we had intended them to be.
*And once the stone was laid over the site, we couldn't see where the foundation holes were located!
We wound up remeasuring and resetting most of the stakes for laying out the pad site grid.
*We dug stone out of two of corners to find the edges of the foundation holes.
*We remeasured and reset corner marking stakes inside those edges.
*We retriangulated with the diagonals to assure the foundation square.
*And we remeasured and reset stakes along all the edges.

So we've rewritten the foundation lay-out plans as they are currently posted. In the current version, we set the stakes at the 3'x3' points to start with so they don't need to be moved. We also emphasized setting them firmly - and safely outside the excavation area.

===Setting the column pad forms===
''Collect equipment and supplies needed''
*Supplies
**16 Pre-built column pad forms
**80 form stakes (we used 2"x2"x18" wooden stakes)
*Equipment
**Heavy Hammer(s)
**4'spirit Level
**Water level
**tape measure
''Steps to place Column Pad forms''
#Use with the center pad site on the upper level as the reference pad.
#Set a pre-built column pad form in place under the string lines with the inside of the forms under the strings.
#Drive two form stakes next to the outside of one side and one on each of the other three sides. They will need to sit deep enough that the tops of the stakes will be level with (or lower than) the top of the form.
#Level the form.
##Screw one of the stakes (on the side with two) to the side of the form so that the form sits 1/2" above the gravel level. Be sure that the top of the stake is level with (or lower than) the top of the form.
##Use the spirit level to set this side of the form level and screw it in position.
##Use the spirit level to set the opposite side of the form at the same level.
##Check the level on the other two sides and screw them in place.
#Use the water level to set the first level on each of the other pads on the upper level.
#Repeat the remainder of the leveling steps for each form.
#Use the water level to set the level of the center form in the lower level at 24" lower than the upper level pads.
#Complete the leveling steps for this form.
#Use the center form on the lower level for a reference form to set and level the remaining lower level column pad forms.

[[File:Setting Column Pad Forms Diagram.png|thumb|600 px|center]]

===Preparing Column Pad Forms for Reinforced Concrete===
Collect equipment and supplies needed
*Supplies
**16 Pre-built column pad rebar assemblies
**64 rebar chairs
*Equipment
**Rake(s)
**shovel
**tape measure
#Use a rake and shovel to remove about 2" of stone from the inside of the form. (until is 6" deep)
#Pack removed stone around outside of forms to create a fully enclosed 6" deep form.
#Use one prebuilt column pad rebar assembly for each column pad site.
#Center the rebar assembly with 3” gap between assembly and form wall on every side.
#Set rebar chairs under corners of prebuilt column pad rebar assemblies.-Put a stone or some gravel under the chairs if needed to center the rebar so it will sit at about the middle of the finished slab (3" off the floor of the form).

[[File:Preparing Column Pad Sites for Concrete Pouring.png|thumb|600 px|center]]

==Concrete Work==
We are preparing to do the big concrete pour. Using the FreeMind mind map model, this is the node that outlines the dependencies so we can be ready for that. Following sections include instructions for accomplishing them.
[[File:Dependencies for Getting Floors Poured.png|thumb|800px|center]]

===Insulated Outside Wall Support Slabs===
We are planning to put reinforced concrete the full 3' width of the Column Support Pads all the way around the outside of the building. They will be 3-1/2" (2x4 lumber size) deep and will support the two CEB walls that enclose the hay bale insulation. Rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.

====Preparing the rebar reinforcement assemblies====
Rebar Assembly for 13’ Outside Wall pads (make 11 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’6” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 6’4” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 12’6” by 2’6” dimensions.
#Measure and cut (1) 20’ piece of #4 rebar to 12’7” in length.
#Center the 12’7” piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld it into place.
[[File:Rebar for outside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

Rebar Assembly for 9’6” Outside Wall pads (make 2 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 4’7” from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’6” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 4’7” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 9’ by 2’6” dimensions.
#Measure and cut (1) 20’ piece of #4 rebar to 9’1” in length.
#Center the 9’1” piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld it into place.
[[File:Rebar for 9.5' outside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

Rebar Assembly for 7' Outside Wall pads (make 2 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 3’4” from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’6” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 3’4” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 6’6” by 2’6” dimensions.
#Measure and cut (1) 20’ piece of #4 rebar to 6'7" in length.
#Center the 6'7" piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld it into place.
[[File:Rebar for 7' outside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

====Preparing the concrete forms====
Our pouring plan requires these forms relating to the outside wall construction. For those wall pads that are part of our interior pads, additional forms are in other sections. If you are not pouring large interior pads, you will need to adjust the number of interior forms.

Exterior Forms for 13' Wall slabs. (make 10 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(2) 2"x4"x7' pine studs
*(1) piece of scrap lumber,
*(4) 3" screws
*Driver
''Steps to do:''
#Start two screws into the flat side of each end of the piece of scrap lumber.
#Butt the two 7' boards end to end
#Lay the piece of scrap lumber over the seam butt joint.
#Be sure the narrow sides of the boards are lined up evenly with each other.
#Drive the screws in completely to hold the boards in line.

Interior Forms for 13' Wall slabs. (make 5 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(2) 2"x4"x7' pine studs
*Measuring tape
*Pencil
*Saw
*(4) 3" screws
*Driver
''Steps to do:''
#Measure, mark, and cut one board to be 6' long.
#Start two screws into the flat side of each end of the 1' piece of scrap lumber.
#Butt the 6' piece with the other 7' board end to end
#Lay the piece of scrap lumber over the seam butt joint.
#Be sure the narrow sides of the boards are lined up evenly with each other.
#Drive the screws in completely to hold the boards in line.

Forms for Wall slabs on split-level section

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(6) 2"x4"x7' pine studs
*(4) 2"x4"x10' pine studs
*Measuring tape
*Pencil
*Saw
''Steps to do:''
#Measure, mark, and cut (2) 7' boards to be 6' long.
#Measure, mark, and cut (2) 10' boards to be 9'6" long.
#You will use the other boards uncut.

[[File:Exterior Wall Form Boards.png|thumb|600px|center]]

====Setting the forms====

===Narrow Wall Support Slabs===
We will support and stabilize the interior CEB walls with a 12" wide x 3-1/2" deep concrete slab. Rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.

====Preparing Rebar reinforcement assemblies====
Rebar Assembly for all 12” interior wall slabs

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(10) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 3’4” from one end.
#Bend 180⁰ the rebar with a 3” radius.
#Measure and mark so another 180⁰ with a 3” radius will produce 6’6” long assemblies.
#Cut the extra rebar (about 7’) off, leaving enough to tack weld each assembly together.

#Measure and mark (4) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 4’4” from the end.
#Bend 180⁰ with a 3” radius.
#Measure and mark so another 180⁰ with a 3” radius will produce 8’6” long assemblies.
#Cut the extra rebar off, leaving enough to tack weld each assembly together.

#Measure and mark (4) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” from the end.
#Bend 180⁰ with a 3” radius.
#Measure and mark so another 180⁰ with a 3” radius will produce 12’6” long assemblies.
#Use scrap cuttings (about 7’ long) to bridge the gap for each of these assemblies.
[[File:Rebar for 1' inside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

====Preparing the Concrete Forms====
These 12" wide slabs will provide a firm foundation on which to build our interior CEB room-dividing walls. Mostly they use the same sizes of forms you used for the outside walls. If you are pouring in small stages, you won't have build more forms because you can reuse the ones from the outside wall slabs. If you are going to pour all the concrete at once, you will need 7 more of the 13' inside form assemblies, 4 more uncut 7' boards, 2 more 7' boards cut to 6' lengths, 6 more boards cut to 9'6", and two boards cut to 9' in length.
Instructions for preparing all of these boards are found above - in the section on exterior wall pads.

====Setting the Forms====

===Kitchen and Bath Areas===
The Kitchen and Bath Floor Areas both have a potential for receiving noticeable amounts of water. We consider it advisable to pave them both with concrete and include a central drain. Rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.
====Preparing the Rebar Assemblies====
Rebar Assembly for 16’x13’ slabs (make 2 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (4) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” from the end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Cut the long ends to 7’10” long.
#Overlap the short ends of two L-shaped pieces and measure to make a U shaped assembly with 12’6” between the legs.
#Make two of these assemblies.
#Overlap the legs of the U-shaped assemblies to make a rectangle measuring 15’6” x 12’6”
#Measure and cut (5) pieces of #4 rebar to 15’7” long.
#Measure and cut (7) pieces of #4 rebar to 12’7” long.
#Space and position the cut pieces into a 24” grid across the rectangle.
#Weld them into place.
[[File:Rebar for 16x13 slab.png|thumb|600px|center]]

====Preparing the Concrete forms====
Because we are pouring this all at once, we decided to eliminate some complicated form work by including the equipment area and one room in this slab. This will be a big pour of concrete. It requires about 5 cubic yards of concrete. If you have plenty of time and are working in small batches, you can save over a yard of concrete by building the interior wall forms and pouring only wall-support pads - as shown on the layout.

The large slabs are laid between column pads, using 13' interior form assemblies. If you are pouring all at once, you will need two more of these assemblies, one more board cut to 9'6", and a piece of scrap about 3' long to complete the form work for this area. This, of course, assumes that you already have the exterior forms for the exterior wall slabs prepared. Instructions for preparing all of these are above in the Insulated Outside Wall Support Slabs section.

===Retaining Wall for Lower Level===
Ideas for this wall have been through several iterations. At present (Oct. 10th), we are planning to lay a 6" footer, 18" wide and 62' long. On top of that, we plan to put a 12" thick wall of bitumen-protected CEB. For the concrete footer, rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.
====Preparing the Rebar Assembly====
Rebar Assembly for Retaining wall footer

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(9) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Scrap #4 rebar to make (1) 6’ pieces and (1) 1’1” piece
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 8’ from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 12” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut (1) 6’ and (1) 1’1” piece of #4 rebar.
#Overlap and weld (1) 20’ length of rebar to each leg.
#Measure and weld the two longer legs together so the resulting assembly is 61’6” long.
#Weld the 6’ piece of rebar between the ends of the two shorter legs so that side is 61’6” long, too.
#Weld (3) 20’ pieces of #4 rebar into an approximately 60’ length of rebar.
#Center the 60’ piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld one end at the center of one end of the rectangle.
#Position the 1’1” piece of rebar across the rectangle to support the free end of the 60’ assembly.
#Weld the short piece to the three long ones.
[[File:Rebar Assembly for Retaining wall.png|thumb|600px|center]]
====Preparing the Concrete Form====

====Setting the Concrete Form====

==CEB Columns==

[[http://ww2.unhabitat.org/programmes/housingpolicy/Images/PDF.gif|UN CEB PDF]]

==CEB Arches==

[[http://ww2.unhabitat.org/programmes/housingpolicy/documents/Vault.pdf|UN Vaults PDF]]

[[http://www.amazon.com/Concrete-Hardness-Hammer-HT-225A-Portable/dp/B0049DDJCK/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1317915942&sr=8-6|Hardness Test Hammer]] for quality assurance

==CEB Floors==

[[http://www.velacreations.com/cebfloors.html|CEB Floor Instructions]]

==Insulated Roof==

2 layers of (16) 11-member 2x6x16' frames will form the insulted roof. One above and one below the bales.

Frames are built with one 16' beam on each end of 9 other 16' beams laid on 24" centers. These roof frames can be built quite quickly at any time labor is available, preferably ahead of time so that they can be installed as soon as the columns are ready to be covered.

Lath 1x2 layed diagonally across the top of the bottom frame at 18 inch intervals to support the bales.

Bales packed close together in a grid.

second layer of 2x6 frames strapped through the bales to the lower layer (details needed here)
For economy, maybe the second layer could be done with 2x4's as they will be well supported and only need to support the metal roofing.

metal roofing applied to the top surface and sides

==Super Insulated Walls==

2.5 foot thick wall.

4x6x12 bricks laid on the 12x4" side in standard wall layup, two walls outside surfaces 2.5' apart.

With air space left on either side, bales are stacked in the center of the wall, creating super insulation between the interior and exterior.

==Heating the HabLab==

I propose a [[http://www.heatkit.com Heatkit]] masonry furnace kit, surrounded by CEB

Hab Lab

2011-10-11T15:20:05Z

Margaret Ida: /* Preparing the Concrete forms */

The need for all-weather housing to shelter year-round members of the community, located where summers can be unpleasantly hot and winters unpleasantly cold, can be met with superinsulated designs. Here we will examine some possible options and our progress in bring them into existence. Planning tools, instructions, modifications, etc. will be included.

The [[Hab Lab Design Gallery|Design Page]] is a good place to see what has been offered and to post any of your own great ideas. More ideas are great for everybody!

==Survey & Design==
The area on the property for the first group habitation was on a noticeable slope. OSE staff members worked with a home-made water level to take measurements over a 100' square area.

How to make a water level: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nAcT_1T25LM

Ideas submitted for this project are located on the [[Hab Lab Design Gallery]] page.

===Building Orientation===

==Planning==

===Kitchen/Bath Water===

===Utility/Storage Area===

===Heating===
====Source Material====
http://dnr.mo.gov/pubs/pub781.pdf

==Site Preparation==

The Hab Lab is designed to be supported by columns built of CEB (Compressed Earth Block)which are constructed on a reinforced concrete pad. Due to the slope of our site, we designed a lowered section which requires a low retaining wall. Included here are instructions for preparing the site with adequate footings.

Here is a picture with a preliminary excavation layout for the column pad sites and the retaining wall in the Hab Lab.
*When you are laying out the excavation site, be sure to add 5' in each direction for the excavator to work to.

[[File:HabLab Excavation Layout.png|thumb|800 px|center]]
This levels diagram is from our theoretical measurements - we actually wound up with a 2' drop, not a 2'8" drop. That will make only a minor difference in raising the building - changing the size of the retaining wall and removing one or two CEB's at the top of the lower columns to maintain the planned roof pitch.
[[File:Levels Diagram for Hab Lab Site.png|thumb|800 px|center]]

==Foundations & Column Slabs==

===Laying out the Hab Lab excavation site to be square===
''Collect equipment and supplies needed''
*Blueprint of site plan
*(2) 100’ Measuring tapes
*4 3-4’ stakes
*Hammer
*Bright spray paint
''Steps for Staking out the excavation site.''
#Choose a spot approximately 5 feet to the North and 5 feet to the West of the area to be excavated.
#Pound in a stake and spray paint the top foot or two of it.
#Measure due East a distance 10’ longer than the foundation width (total 67’).
#Place and paint another stake.
#Calculate a distance 10’ longer than the foundation length (total 62’).
#Calculate the diagonal measurement of the excavation site [Length(squared) x Width(squared) = Diagonal(squared)] (91'4").
#Measure due South from the Northwest stake the distance calculated in step 6.
#Set the second tape measure on the Northeast stake and measure the diagonal calculated in step 7 going Southwest.
#Set your third stake where the two measured lengths meet each other.
#Paint the stake.
#Measure due South from the Northeast stake the distance calculated in step 6.
#Set the second tape measure on the Northwest stake and measure the diagonal calculated in step 7 going Southeast.
#Set your fouth stake where the two measured lengths meet each other.
#Paint the stake.

*With the site leveled, the foundation holes for the column slabs must be laid out.
*After excavation, the stone fill for the foundation goes into the holes.
*At the same time, the 6" stone floor foundation is spread.

===Concrete forms and rebar reinforcing assemblies===
These can be built well ahead of need whenever volunteers are available.
*You could set up an assembly line effect to do them all at once with several people working together.
*An individual might do one unit at a time.
*An individual might do all the wood cutting at one time, another do all the rebar cutting at another time, another do all the rebar bending at another time.
*A couple of people might work together to get some wooden forms assembled once the pieces are cut, another time, a couple of people might work together to get some rebar assemblies welded.

The following step-by-step instructions are provided for building the forms and the reinforcing rebar assemblies.

[[https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=14oCxZUjs09wGuvaL4QTAII6hRxQpy20TKv7skH3INRWAVlXqtgdrh0D2ggtl&hl=en Assembly sheet for column pad forms]]

[[https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=1_hf2n-l9rCiEss45ZC8ogtMpeQki9fCoYIFdkD5x3lCOwjGh7Gknr-POJrNB&hl=en Rebar plan for column footings]]

===Laying out the locations for the forms on top of the foundation stone===
Once the form and rebar assemblies are built and the foundation stone is in place, the string site plan lay-out must be set up for placing the forms properly over their (now invisible) foundations. If you set your hole locating strings far enough out that the excavation didn't disturb them, this will be simple. It will be even easier if you rolled up your strings before the hole excavation got done and saved them. (See comments below!)

''Collect equipment and supplies needed''
*Blueprint of site plan
*100' tape measure
*Pre-placed marking stakes around outside of foundation site.
*Rolled up pre-used string balls from foundation hole layout
''Steps for Laying out Column Pad Form locations.''
#Measure to check that all pre-placed marking stakes are properly positioned.
#If any are missing or misplaced, replace or reposition them as needed.
#Unroll and retie the strings to their corresponding stakes across the foundation site .

Here's what the layout over the stone should look like.
[[File:HabLab Column Pad Form Layout.png|thumb|600 px|center]]

We had a great plan for this - we would set our stakes out first to mark the hole edges at 4'x4', save the strings and move the stakes in by 6" to 3'x3' for the setting the pad forms.

However, when we tried it in real life - Well...
*We lost a lot of our stakes during the excavation.
*We found the holes tended to come out bigger than we had intended them to be.
*And once the stone was laid over the site, we couldn't see where the foundation holes were located!
We wound up remeasuring and resetting most of the stakes for laying out the pad site grid.
*We dug stone out of two of corners to find the edges of the foundation holes.
*We remeasured and reset corner marking stakes inside those edges.
*We retriangulated with the diagonals to assure the foundation square.
*And we remeasured and reset stakes along all the edges.

So we've rewritten the foundation lay-out plans as they are currently posted. In the current version, we set the stakes at the 3'x3' points to start with so they don't need to be moved. We also emphasized setting them firmly - and safely outside the excavation area.

===Setting the column pad forms===
''Collect equipment and supplies needed''
*Supplies
**16 Pre-built column pad forms
**80 form stakes (we used 2"x2"x18" wooden stakes)
*Equipment
**Heavy Hammer(s)
**4'spirit Level
**Water level
**tape measure
''Steps to place Column Pad forms''
#Use with the center pad site on the upper level as the reference pad.
#Set a pre-built column pad form in place under the string lines with the inside of the forms under the strings.
#Drive two form stakes next to the outside of one side and one on each of the other three sides. They will need to sit deep enough that the tops of the stakes will be level with (or lower than) the top of the form.
#Level the form.
##Screw one of the stakes (on the side with two) to the side of the form so that the form sits 1/2" above the gravel level. Be sure that the top of the stake is level with (or lower than) the top of the form.
##Use the spirit level to set this side of the form level and screw it in position.
##Use the spirit level to set the opposite side of the form at the same level.
##Check the level on the other two sides and screw them in place.
#Use the water level to set the first level on each of the other pads on the upper level.
#Repeat the remainder of the leveling steps for each form.
#Use the water level to set the level of the center form in the lower level at 24" lower than the upper level pads.
#Complete the leveling steps for this form.
#Use the center form on the lower level for a reference form to set and level the remaining lower level column pad forms.

[[File:Setting Column Pad Forms Diagram.png|thumb|600 px|center]]

===Preparing Column Pad Forms for Reinforced Concrete===
Collect equipment and supplies needed
*Supplies
**16 Pre-built column pad rebar assemblies
**64 rebar chairs
*Equipment
**Rake(s)
**shovel
**tape measure
#Use a rake and shovel to remove about 2" of stone from the inside of the form. (until is 6" deep)
#Pack removed stone around outside of forms to create a fully enclosed 6" deep form.
#Use one prebuilt column pad rebar assembly for each column pad site.
#Center the rebar assembly with 3” gap between assembly and form wall on every side.
#Set rebar chairs under corners of prebuilt column pad rebar assemblies.-Put a stone or some gravel under the chairs if needed to center the rebar so it will sit at about the middle of the finished slab (3" off the floor of the form).

[[File:Preparing Column Pad Sites for Concrete Pouring.png|thumb|600 px|center]]

==Concrete Work==
We are preparing to do the big concrete pour. Using the FreeMind mind map model, this is the node that outlines the dependencies so we can be ready for that. Following sections include instructions for accomplishing them.
[[File:Dependencies for Getting Floors Poured.png|thumb|800px|center]]

===Insulated Outside Wall Support Slabs===
We are planning to put reinforced concrete the full 3' width of the Column Support Pads all the way around the outside of the building. They will be 3-1/2" (2x4 lumber size) deep and will support the two CEB walls that enclose the hay bale insulation. Rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.

====Preparing the rebar reinforcement assemblies====
Rebar Assembly for 13’ Outside Wall pads (make 11 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’6” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 6’4” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 12’6” by 2’6” dimensions.
#Measure and cut (1) 20’ piece of #4 rebar to 12’7” in length.
#Center the 12’7” piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld it into place.
[[File:Rebar for outside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

Rebar Assembly for 9’6” Outside Wall pads (make 2 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 4’7” from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’6” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 4’7” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 9’ by 2’6” dimensions.
#Measure and cut (1) 20’ piece of #4 rebar to 9’1” in length.
#Center the 9’1” piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld it into place.
[[File:Rebar for 9.5' outside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

Rebar Assembly for 7' Outside Wall pads (make 2 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 3’4” from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 2’6” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut the long end of each U to the same 3’4” length
#Measure and weld the two assemblies into a single rectangle of 6’6” by 2’6” dimensions.
#Measure and cut (1) 20’ piece of #4 rebar to 6'7" in length.
#Center the 6'7" piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld it into place.
[[File:Rebar for 7' outside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

====Preparing the concrete forms====
Our pouring plan requires these forms relating to the outside wall construction. For those wall pads that are part of our interior pads, additional forms are in other sections. If you are not pouring large interior pads, you will need to adjust the number of interior forms.

Exterior Forms for 13' Wall slabs. (make 10 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(2) 2"x4"x7' pine studs
*(1) piece of scrap lumber,
*(4) 3" screws
*Driver
''Steps to do:''
#Start two screws into the flat side of each end of the piece of scrap lumber.
#Butt the two 7' boards end to end
#Lay the piece of scrap lumber over the seam butt joint.
#Be sure the narrow sides of the boards are lined up evenly with each other.
#Drive the screws in completely to hold the boards in line.

Interior Forms for 13' Wall slabs. (make 5 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(2) 2"x4"x7' pine studs
*Measuring tape
*Pencil
*Saw
*(4) 3" screws
*Driver
''Steps to do:''
#Measure, mark, and cut one board to be 6' long.
#Start two screws into the flat side of each end of the 1' piece of scrap lumber.
#Butt the 6' piece with the other 7' board end to end
#Lay the piece of scrap lumber over the seam butt joint.
#Be sure the narrow sides of the boards are lined up evenly with each other.
#Drive the screws in completely to hold the boards in line.

Forms for Wall slabs on split-level section

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(6) 2"x4"x7' pine studs
*(4) 2"x4"x10' pine studs
*Measuring tape
*Pencil
*Saw
''Steps to do:''
#Measure, mark, and cut (2) 7' boards to be 6' long.
#Measure, mark, and cut (2) 10' boards to be 9'6" long.
#You will use the other boards uncut.

[[File:Exterior Wall Form Boards.png|thumb|600px|center]]

====Setting the forms====

===Narrow Wall Support Slabs===
We will support and stabilize the interior CEB walls with a 12" wide x 3-1/2" deep concrete slab. Rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.

====Preparing Rebar reinforcement assemblies====
Rebar Assembly for all 12” interior wall slabs

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(10) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 3’4” from one end.
#Bend 180⁰ the rebar with a 3” radius.
#Measure and mark so another 180⁰ with a 3” radius will produce 6’6” long assemblies.
#Cut the extra rebar (about 7’) off, leaving enough to tack weld each assembly together.

#Measure and mark (4) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 4’4” from the end.
#Bend 180⁰ with a 3” radius.
#Measure and mark so another 180⁰ with a 3” radius will produce 8’6” long assemblies.
#Cut the extra rebar off, leaving enough to tack weld each assembly together.

#Measure and mark (4) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” from the end.
#Bend 180⁰ with a 3” radius.
#Measure and mark so another 180⁰ with a 3” radius will produce 12’6” long assemblies.
#Use scrap cuttings (about 7’ long) to bridge the gap for each of these assemblies.
[[File:Rebar for 1' inside wall pads.png|thumb|600px|center]]

====Preparing the Concrete Forms====
These 12" wide slabs will provide a firm foundation on which to build our interior CEB room-dividing walls. Mostly they use the same sizes of forms you used for the outside walls. If you are pouring in small stages, you won't have build more forms because you can reuse the ones from the outside wall slabs. If you are going to pour all the concrete at once, you will need 7 more of the 13' inside form assemblies, 4 more uncut 7' boards, 2 more 7' boards cut to 6' lengths, 6 more boards cut to 9'6", and two boards cut to 9' in length.
Instructions for preparing all of these boards are found above - in the section on exterior wall pads.

====Setting the Forms====

===Kitchen and Bath Areas===
The Kitchen and Bath Floor Areas both have a potential for receiving noticeable amounts of water. We consider it advisable to pave them both with concrete and include a central drain. Rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.
====Preparing the Rebar Assemblies====
Rebar Assembly for 16’x13’ slabs (make 2 assemblies)

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(3) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (4) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 6’4” from the end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Cut the long ends to 7’10” long.
#Overlap the short ends of two L-shaped pieces and measure to make a U shaped assembly with 12’6” between the legs.
#Make two of these assemblies.
#Overlap the legs of the U-shaped assemblies to make a rectangle measuring 15’6” x 12’6”
#Measure and cut (5) pieces of #4 rebar to 15’7” long.
#Measure and cut (7) pieces of #4 rebar to 12’7” long.
#Space and position the cut pieces into a 24” grid across the rectangle.
#Weld them into place.
[[File:Rebar for 16x13 slab.png|thumb|600px|center]]

====Preparing the Concrete forms====
Because we are pouring this all at once, we decided to eliminate some complicated form work by including the equipment area and one room in this slab. This will be a big pour of concrete. It requires about 5 cubic yards of concrete. If you have plenty of time and are working in small batches, you can save over a yard of concrete by building the interior wall forms and pouring only wall-support pads - as shown on the layout.

The large slabs are laid between column pads, using 13' interior form assemblies. If you are pouring all at once, you will need two more of these assemblies, one more board cut to 9'6", and a piece of scrap about 3' long to complete the form work for this area. This, of course, assumes that you already have the exterior forms for the exterior wall slabs prepared. Instructions for preparing all of these are above in the Insulated Outside Wall Support Slabs section.

===Retaining Wall for Lower Level===
Ideas for this wall have been through several iterations. At present (Oct. 10th), we are planning to lay a 6" footer, 18" wide and 62' long. On top of that, we plan to put a 12" thick wall of bitumen-protected CEB. For the concrete footer, rebar assemblies and concrete form sizes can be prepared ahead of time.

Rebar Assembly for Retaining wall footer

''Collect supplies and equipment''
*(9) 20’ lengths #4 rebar
*Scrap #4 rebar to make (1) 6’ pieces and (1) 1’1” piece
*Measuring tape
*Marker
*Rebar cutter
*Rebar bender
*Spot welder
''Steps to do:''
#Measure and mark (2) 20’ lengths of #4 rebar 8’ from one end.
#Bend at a right angle.
#Measure and mark each piece to bend into a U shape with 12” between the legs.
#Bend them into (2) U shaped pieces.
#Measure, mark, and cut (1) 6’ and (1) 1’1” piece of #4 rebar.
#Overlap and weld (1) 20’ length of rebar to each leg.
#Measure and weld the two longer legs together so the resulting assembly is 61’6” long.
#Weld the 6’ piece of rebar between the ends of the two shorter legs so that side is 61’6” long, too.
#Weld (3) 20’ pieces of #4 rebar into an approximately 60’ length of rebar.
#Center the 60’ piece between the long sides of the rectangular assembly.
#Weld one end at the center of one end of the rectangle.
#Position the 1’1” piece of rebar across the rectangle to support the free end of the 60’ assembly.
#Weld the short piece to the three long ones.
[[File:Rebar Assembly for Retaining wall.png|thumb|600px|center]]

==CEB Columns==

[[http://ww2.unhabitat.org/programmes/housingpolicy/Images/PDF.gif|UN CEB PDF]]

==CEB Arches==

[[http://ww2.unhabitat.org/programmes/housingpolicy/documents/Vault.pdf|UN Vaults PDF]]

[[http://www.amazon.com/Concrete-Hardness-Hammer-HT-225A-Portable/dp/B0049DDJCK/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1317915942&sr=8-6|Hardness Test Hammer]] for quality assurance

==CEB Floors==

[[http://www.velacreations.com/cebfloors.html|CEB Floor Instructions]]

==Insulated Roof==

2 layers of (16) 11-member 2x6x16' frames will form the insulted roof. One above and one below the bales.

Frames are built with one 16' beam on each end of 9 other 16' beams laid on 24" centers. These roof frames can be built quite quickly at any time labor is available, preferably ahead of time so that they can be installed as soon as the columns are ready to be covered.

Lath 1x2 layed diagonally across the top of the bottom frame at 18 inch intervals to support the bales.

Bales packed close together in a grid.

second layer of 2x6 frames strapped through the bales to the lower layer (details needed here)
For economy, maybe the second layer could be done with 2x4's as they will be well supported and only need to support the metal roofing.

metal roofing applied to the top surface and sides

==Super Insulated Walls==

2.5 foot thick wall.

4x6x12 bricks laid on the 12x4" side in standard wall layup, two walls outside surfaces 2.5' apart.

With air space left on either side, bales are stacked in the center of the wall, creating super insulation between the interior and exterior.

==Heating the HabLab==

I propose a [[http://www.heatkit.com Heatkit]] masonry furnace kit, surrounded by CEB