Open Source Ecology - User contributions [en]

Sawmill

2012-07-09T19:11:41Z

Ryan Lutz: Adjusting the formatting of Theo's github link add

{{GVCS Header}}

==Overview==

A sawmill converts felled logs from trees into green wood lumbar. As a piece of the [[GVCS]], it unlocks a range of well-established wood construction techniques.

To convert the green wood into finished dried lumber the cut boards are either [[kiln| air-dried]] or fired in a [[kiln]].

{{video}}

==Detailed Description==
<html>
<iframe src="https://player.vimeo.com/video/28369397?title=0&byline=0&portrait=0" width="400" height="233" frameborder="0"></iframe>
</html>

==Product Ecology==
[[Image:4b-Constructioneco.png|600px|right]]

{{Product Ecology

|Product={{Sawmill}}

|From=
* {{Furnace}}
* {{Welder}}
* {{Multimachine}}
* {{Hydraulic Motor}}

|Uses=
* [[Wood]]
* {{PowerCube}}
* {{3D Scanner}}

|Creates=
* [[Sawdust]]
* [[Lumber]]

|Enables=
* {{Pelletizer}}
* {{Hammermill}}
* [[Kiln]]
* [[Workshop]]
* [[Greenhouse]]
* [[Hab Lab]]
* [[RepLab]]

|Components=
*Blade
*Structure
*Bed
*Gantry
*Bearings
*[[Hydraulic Hoses]]
*[[Control Box]]
}}

==Status==
[[Image:Sawmill2.jpg|right]]

The first Sawmill prototype is currently under construction as a part of the [[GVCS Rollout Plan]].

See [[Dimensional_Sawmill_Prototype_I]] for in-progress videos.

==See Also==

*[[Sawmill - Design Rationale]]
*[[Sawmill Design]]
*[[Sawmill Analysis]]
*[[Sawmill/Research_Development|Research]]
*[[Sawmill Archive]]
*[[Wood]]
*[[Forest]]
*[[Kiln]]

==Links==
* [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sawmill Wikipedia: Sawmill]
* [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Portable_sawmill Wikipedia: Portable Sawmill]

===Theo's Github Repository===
https://github.com/Veradrix90/Dimensional-Sawmill

{{GVCS Footer}}

Multimachine/Manufacturing Instructions

2012-01-10T23:37:55Z

Ryan Lutz:

{{OrigLang}}
{{GVCS Header}}
<html><script type="text/javascript"
data-dozuki-embed='3'
src="http://cacher.dozuki.net/static/embed/ifixit-embed.3.js#id=1751&site=makeprojects.com">
</script><p><a href="http://makeprojects.com/Project/The-Multimachine-150-12-Inch-swing-metal-lathe-mill-drill/1751/1">The Multimachine $150, 12" swing, metal lathe/mill/drill</a></p>
</html>
{{GVCS Footer}}

Multimachine/Manufacturing Instructions

2012-01-10T23:35:31Z

Ryan Lutz: Created page with " <html><script type="text/javascript" data-dozuki-embed='3' src="http://cacher.dozuki.net/static/embed/ifixit-embed.3.js#id=1751&site=makeprojects.com"> ..."

<html><script type="text/javascript"
data-dozuki-embed='3'
src="http://cacher.dozuki.net/static/embed/ifixit-embed.3.js#id=1751&site=makeprojects.com">
</script><p><a href="http://makeprojects.com/Project/The-Multimachine-150-12-Inch-swing-metal-lathe-mill-drill/1751/1">The Multimachine $150, 12" swing, metal lathe/mill/drill</a></p>
</html>

Talk:Multimachine/Manufacturing Instructions

2012-01-10T23:35:26Z

Ryan Lutz: Explanation of recent addition to main Multimachine page

The embed is from Make Projects.

Design by Pat Delany, rigmatch@yahoo.com

Drawings by Tyler Disney, flowxrg.com

Pat is looking for an outlet for his 10+ year project and OSE seems to be the place for it. He contacted iFixit, owner of Dozuki software that powers Make Projects seeking tech support, and was introduced to me via Eric Doster. I am currently trying to find a partner/collaborator for Pat so he can share his knowledge with the world. He is currently unable to walk and communicates via Internet. If you are interested in collaborating with him, please email him directly or you can contact me at ryan.lutz37 at gmail dot com for more information. Thanks!

LifeTrac

2011-10-24T17:32:03Z

Ryan Lutz: This is the version without the Manufacturing Instructions information added. 10-24-11 Ryan Lutz

LifeTrac

2011-10-24T17:29:25Z

Ryan Lutz: Undo revision 45404 by Tom Griffing (talk) This information belongs on the Manufacturing Instructions page

{{GVCS Header}}

[[Image:LiftTracWithTracks.jpg|thumb|right|400px|LifeTrac Tractor]]

==Overview==

[[LifeTrac]] is a low-cost, multipurpose open source tractor. It serves as a workhorse backbone for many of GVCS technologies.

Featuring a modular design and detachable [[PowerCube]] units, it has the ability to rapidly switch between a variety of GVCS machines via the [[QA Plate]]. The machine is overbuilt with a focus on lifetime design and ease of repair.

Four hydraulic motors provide skid steer power to the wheels, and a unique chain tread system enables navigation of fairly extreme terrain.

==Preparation==

===Safety===
* Hearing Protection
* Eye Protection
* Steel Toe Boots
* Welding
** Gloves
** Hood
** Apron/Jacket

===Workspace===

This section describes the various workspace areas that we have found to be useful in fabricating the LifeTrac. It is provided as a suggestion for preparing your work area.

*Storage: For raw steel and parts
*Cutting Area: For use with cutting torch - Made from non-flammable materials
*Welding Table: Usually steel, suitable for use with arc welder (MIG, TIG, stick, etc)
*Ventilation for cutting / welding areas

===Tools===
*Welder
*Angle Grinder

*Hand Tools
**Crescent wrench
**Socket set
**Hammer

*Metal Cutting Tools
**Bandsaw
**Chopsaw
**Torch

*Paint Tools
**Gravity Fed Paint Sprayer
**Air compressor

==Cut Sheet==
* This list contains instructions for cutting the raw steel into pieces for assembly. Most will require further cuts before being ready for assembly.

====1/2” Thick, 4" x 6" Angle====
* 4 @ 6"

====1/4” Thick, 2 3/8" Dia Steel Tube====
* 1 @ 4 1/2"

====5/16” Thick, 2 1/2" Dia Steel Tube====
* 4 @ 5"

====3/8” Thick, 3" x 6" Steel Tube====
* 1 @ 45"
* 2 @ 100"

====¼” Thick, 4" x 4" Steel Tube====
* 3 @ 44"
* 2 @ 52"
* 2 @ 55"
* 2 @ 59"
* 3 @ 60"
* 2 @ 68"
* 4 @ 76"
* Totals: 18 Pieces, 90' 4" (round up 10% =~ 100')

==Parts Fabrication==
* The purpose of this section is to prepare the components for final assembly. This includes cutting steel into required lengths and shapes, drilling, welding and shaping as required for final assembly.

* These step includes drilling and cutting steel up to 1” thick.

====¼” x 4" x 4" Steel Tube====
* Cut the following lengths:
* Drill 13/16" holes in the following tubes and locations:
* Use cutting torch to cut a 2 3/4" hole as follows:

==Assembly==

===Lower Frame===
* Cut the following lengths:
* ¼” x 8” x 12” Plate
* ¼” x 8” x 9” Plate

===Vertical Tubes===

===Upper Frame===

===Lower Frame===

{{Video:Tractor}}

==Product Ecology==
{{Product Ecology

|From=
*{{Power Cube}}
*{{Hydraulic Motor}}
*{{Induction Furnace}} Steel

|Uses=
*{{Power Cube}}

|Creates=

|Enables=
*{{CEB Press}}
*{{Rototiller}}
*{{Backhoe}}
*{{Universal Rotor}}
*{{Well Driller}}
*{{Trencher}}
*{{Baler}}
*{{Seeder}}
*{{Spader}}
*{{Rototiller}}
*{{Hay Rake}}
*{{Hay Cutter}}

}}

==Status==
Currently the Lifetrac is on its second prototype with half a dozen units at Factor e Farm. The machines are currently being prepared for field testing as a part of the [[Factor e Farm Infrastructure Buildout 2011]].

The next prototype aims to integrate as aspects of [[Digital Fabrication]] for automated production. Rebar construction is also under consideration.

== See also ==
* [[LifeTrac Questions]]

[[Category: Farm equipment]]
[[Category: Earth moving]]

{{GVCS Footer}}

Talk:GVCS List

2011-09-19T22:45:29Z

Ryan Lutz:

Chris, I created a page with the same intent and have been using it: [[Wikinames]] [[User:Ryan Lutz|Ryan Lutz]] 00:45, 20 September 2011 (CEST)

Talk:GVCS List

2011-09-19T22:45:12Z

Ryan Lutz: Created page with "Chris, I created a page with the same intent and have been using it: Wikinames"

Chris, I created a page with the same intent and have been using it: [[Wikinames]]

Welder

2011-09-19T22:38:38Z

Ryan Lutz: /* Status */

{{GVCS Header}}

==Overview==
[[Image:Welderpic.png|thumb|400px|Welder]]

The '''Welder''' enables all the wonders of welding, a fabrication process that joins metal pieces together.

==Details==
Welding is often done by melting the workpieces and adding a filler material to form a pool of molten material (the weld pool) that cools to become a strong joint, with pressure sometimes used in conjunction with heat, or by itself, to produce the weld. This is in contrast with soldering and brazing, which involve melting a lower-melting-point material between the workpieces to form a bond between them, without melting the workpieces.

==Product Ecology==
[[Image:2b-Genfabecology.png|thumb|600px|Welder [[Product Ecology]]]]

'''Uses'''
*[[UPS]] - Power
*[[Wire Mill]] - Welding Wire

'''Used by'''
*[[Industrial Robot]]

See [[Product Ecologies]] for more information.

==Components==

*Wire Feed
*Spooler
*Tensioner
*Transformer
*Welding Wire
*Control Box
*Handle
*Nozzle
*Sleeve
*Case

==Status==

The Welder project is currently in the [[Welder/Research Development|Research Phase of product development.]]

==See Also==

*[[Welding]]

{{GVCS Footer}}

Steam Engine

2011-09-19T22:12:32Z

Ryan Lutz:

{{GVCS Header}}

==Overview==
[[Image:Design-7-A.png|400px|thumb|Current conceptual view]]

[[Steam Engine/Index]] - topical index to all steam engine pages.

The Open Source Ecology project seeks to develop a modular, scalable, open source steam engine capable of converting steam generated by a solar collector or boiler into power that can be used to generate electricity or drive machines found in the [[Global Village Construction Set]].

==Details==

See [[Steam Engine Intro]] if you are interested in the current OSE steam engine project.

* [[Steam Engine Concept]] - a conceptual description of steam engines
* [[Steam Engine Breakdown]] -
* [[Steam Engine Specifications]]
* [[Steam Engine Specifications/Geometry]]
* [[Steam Engine/Terminology]] - terms used in steam engine technology

Steam engines take energy available as high pressure, high temperature steam and convert it into reciprocal motion. This motion can then be turned into rotational motion using a crankshaft. At the start of the twentieth century, steam engines provided power for farms, factories, and transportation. They were largely replaced by internal combustion engines. The Open Source Ecology project is interested in reviving steam technology to develop a modern steam engine to provide alternatives to engines driven by gasoline or diesel - which are becoming increasingly more expensive as our world passes the point of peak oil production.

==Product Ecology==
[[Image:File:3b-Solarenergyeco.png|thumb|600px|[[Steam Engine Product Ecology]]]]

'''Made with'''
*[[Induction Furnace]] - Steel

'''Uses'''
*[[Gasifier]] - Heat
*[[Steam Generator]] - Steam
*[[Solar Concentrator]] - Heat

'''Creates'''
*[[Electricity]]
*[[Power]]

==Components==

==Status==
The Steam Engine is nearing the [[Steam_Engine/Manufacturing_Instructions|Prototyping phase of product development]]. Those interested in fabricating prototype should contact [[Mark Norton]].

==See Also==
*[[Steam Engine Archive]]
*[[Solar Combined Heat Power System]]

{{GVCS Footer}}

User:Ryan Lutz/Log

2011-09-18T21:45:22Z

Ryan Lutz:

==Through September 18==

*Currently taking 'Technical Communication' class in college. Subject matter pertains directly to the wiki documentation with emphasis on User Manual as the final project. This knowledge will be very useful for assembling the User Manual section of each of the GVCS tools.

*Have been regularly monitoring wiki changes on [[Special:RecentChanges]] and making minor changes to the format and/or correcting typos, grammar, etc. with new knowledge/skills learned from class.

==August 26==

*Improving readability by adding links to templates and adding templates to pages.
*Re-categorizing pages to improve the [http://opensourceecology.org/w/index.php?title=Special%3ACategoryTree&target=Main&mode=categories&dotree=Show+tree Category Tree]
*Added framework and a little content to [[Cement Mixer]]

==August 25==

Today I developed the GVCS wiki infrastructure by means of creating and adjusting templates, moving pages due to name and/or subpage categorization issues, performing spelling/capitalization changes to pages and links, and making sections and pages standardized to the [[GVCSTool]] page.

==August 21 and before==

*Developed [[CEB Press]], [[LifeTrac]], and [[CNC Torch Table]] pages

Question: Please describe what you mean by 'Developed those pages' -MJ

Answer: Developing in this sense means formatting; I was moving sections around, updating links, and arranging templates for a more uniform look from tool to tool. See [[GVCSTool]] for a generic page of what a page for any of the GVCS tools should look like. [[User:Ryan Lutz|Ryan Lutz]] 07:41, 24 August 2011 (CEST)

*Performed housecleaning (moving pages, renaming pages, correcting typos, etc.) on the wiki
*Reviewed recently changed pages for consistency with wiki standards and accuracy
*Developed generic GVCSTool pages to establish a standard template upon which to base subsequent GVCS pages on.

[[Category:Logs]]

CEB Press

2011-09-08T00:38:32Z

Ryan Lutz: /* Components */

{{GVCS Header}}

[[File:Machine.jpg|right|400px|thumb|CEB Press (aka "The Liberator")]]
==Overview==
[[File:Liberator_bricks.JPG|right|400px|thumb|Bricks pressed on [[The Liberator]]]]
The '''"Liberator" Compressed Earth Block Press''' is a machine that makes compressed earth blocks ('''CEB'''s).

[[CEB Press/Videos]]

==Detailed Description==

The [[CEB Press]] takes earth/dirt/soil and squeezes it really hard to make solid blocks which can be used for building. Compressed earth blocks have many advantages as a building material: by making the building materials from the ground on the site, they eliminate the need to cart them in from elsewhere. This cuts down the costs and environmental impact of transport. Compressed earth blocks are very strong and insulate well against both heat and sound. This makes for a very energy-efficient building. Best of all, there is no charge for using dirt; it is literally a dirt-cheap way of building! See the wiki page on [[Compressed Earth Blocks]] and the [[:Category:CEB|CEB category]] for more details on building with CEBs.

The Liberator has been fully designed and tested by the Open Ecology team. You can now follow the instructions to build your own, or contact ''opensourceecology[at]gmail[dot]com'' if you want to buy a kit or a finished machine.

Building a machine yourself might seem scary, but every step of the process is fully documented and the OSE community is available on our [http://openfarmtech.org/forum/ discussion forums] if you need help, advice, or a little hand-holding.

With the Liberator, two people can build a 6 foot high (1.83m) round wall, 20 feet (6.1m) in diameter, 1 foot (30cm) thick, in one 8 hour day - though construction time will vary somewhat depending on other factors: preparation time, what equipment is available (tractor etc.) and the quality of the soil. The bigger the block size, the faster a wall is erected. And obviously, the bigger the block size, the heavier the block. Blocks from ''The Liberator'' will average 25 pounds (11.3kg).

The [[CNC Torch Table|torch table]] will be used to automate the fabrication of the CEB machine, reducing fabrication time by an estimated 20 hours and thus reducing the cost of the final product.

==Components==
The Liberator consists of -<br>
*A '''[[CEB Press/Manufacturing Instructions/Hopper|Hopper]]''' at the top which you fill with loose dirt. This is made from welded steel. We made the hopper six feet wide, so it can hold a lot of dirt.
*'''Grate and grate shaker''' - the grate is at the bottom of the hopper. The grate shaker shakes it so that soil falls through into the compression chamber, while large stones and things like that are caught in the grate.
*A '''frame''' that bolts together for easy assembly and disassembly.
*A '''compression chamber''' where the bricks are actually pressed. This is a metal box with a nylon liner bolted on the inside. The liner gives the bricks a smoother finish. It will have to be replaced every hundred thousand bricks or so.
*'''Hydraulic cylinders''' - These are the muscles of the machine; they apply the pressure to the dirt. They are readily removable with pins. There are two hydraulic cylinders:
*The '''soil drawer''' - this moves from left to right and performs the dual function of loading soil into the compression chamber and ejecting blocks from the machine
*The '''main cylinder''', which moves up and down and compresses the blocks
*'''Tractor mount''', where an external hydraulic power source can be attached to the hydraulic cylinders.
*'''Pressure gauge''', which monitors the amount of pressure used by the hydraulic system to ensure a certain density of brick.
*'''[[CEB Press/Manufacturing Instructions/Controller Box|Controller Box]]''' controls the timing and sequence of operations.

<gallery widths="390px" heights="350px" perrow="2">
File:Machine-front.jpg
File:Machine-back.jpg
</gallery>

==Product Ecology==
<gallery align="left" widths="400px" heights="280px" perrow="2">
File:4b-Constructioneco.png|Construction Map
</gallery>
See [[Product Ecologies]] for more information.

'''Uses'''
*[[Furnace]] Steel
*[[Welder]] pieces
*[[Torch Table]] plates and holes
*[[Ironworker]] holes
*[[PowerCube]] for power

'''Creates'''
*[[CEB Bricks]] for [[Workshop]], [[Greenhouse]], [[HabLab]], etc

==Solution Statement==

The CEB Press provides a solution for using soil as a viable building construction material.

==Specifications==
{| cellpadding="6" cellspacing="2" border="1" align="center"
|-align="center"
! Bricks per minute output
! 16

|-align="center"
! Brick size
! 12x6x6 inches (30.5x15.3x10.2 cm)

|-align="center"
! People operating machine
! 1-2

|-align="center"
! Power source
! Tractor hydraulics or any hydraulic power source with 6 gallon per minute capacity (22.71 liters per minute)

|-align="center"
! Machine mounting
! tractor 3 point hitch or stand-alone foot

|-align="center"
! Hydraulic pressure
! 2000psi / 137.90 bar

|-align="center"
! Hydraulic cylinder
! 5 inch diameter, 19.6 inch area; 2.5 inch rod

|-align="center"
! Pressing cylinder pressure
! 39,250 lb pushing force (~18 tons)

|-align="center"
! Controls
! 2 spool, manual, hydraulic valve; automatic version forthcoming.

|-align="center"
! Compressive strength of bricks
! 795psi (54.81 bar) using plain earth. <br>1200psi (82.74 bar) with 10% Portland cement.<br>Strong enough to build a 60-story building [http://openfarmtech.org/weblog/2010/06/ceb-compressive-strength-test-results/]

|-align="center"
! Materials:
! Structural cold rolled steel construction throughout

|-align="center"
! Height:
! 6 foot 11 inches/ 210.82 cm

|-align="center"
! Machine lifetime goals:
! 1 million bricks before repairs; liner may be replaced every 100,000 bricks

|-align="center"
! Fabrication time requirement for optimized production:
! 3-5 days, about 20 hours of direct fabrication

|-align="center"
! Manual fabrication tooling requirements:
! drill press, welder, acetylene torch

|-align="center"
! Optimal fabrication tooling:
! XYZ table with torch, MIG welder, hoist

|-align="center"
! Material costs:
! $1000-1350

|}

==Status==

Currently the CEB is at product release status and is being actively manufactured at Factor e Farm. The presses will be used heavily as a part of the [[Factor e Farm Infrastructure Buildout 2011]].

See: [[Brianna Log]] for production run status updates

The CEB documentation is being actively upgraded to meet [[Fabrication_Procedure_Standards]] with the goal of serving as a reference implementation for [[GVCS]] documentation.

The first independent replication is in process as of Sep. 2, 2011, by [[James Slade]] in Texas. [[Image:creationreplication.jpg|thumb|James Slades' first independent replication of the CEB Press in process as of Sep. 2, 2011. Welding the soil loading drawer.]]

==See Also==
[[Compressed Earth Blocks]]

{{GVCS_List}}
[[Category:CEB Press]]
[[Category:GVCS]]

CEB Press/Manufacturing Instructions/Arms - primary

2011-09-03T21:33:42Z

Ryan Lutz:

{{Template:CEB Press Manufacturing Instructions Navbox}}
[[Image:Farmewitharms.jpg|thumb]]

The primary arms attach the cylinder/frame assembly to the secondary arms, which support it. They also attach to the plate which holds the recently pressed bricks, and the support plate which prevents the dirt in the drawer from falling out of it.

== Tools Required ==

Hole punch with 13/16" and 3/4" dies

== Materials Required ==

*2 pieces 72" long - 4"x6"x3/8" angle steel

== Diagrams ==

== Fabrication Steps ==
Punch the 3/4" holes and then the 13/16" holes.

*The holes are all to be punched in the 4" side of the angle iron, in 1 1/4" from the edge of it.

* The 3/4" holes are located 2" and 70" from one end of the angle iron. The two arms will be mirror images of one another. (These holes are slightly smaller than the others to minimize play between the primary and secondary arms, preventing extra vibrations on the frame.)

*The 13/16" hole centers are located at 15", 31", 37", 39 5/8", 48 3/8", 53", and 64" from one end of the angle iron. Make the two arms mirror images of one another.

CEB Press Build Instructions/secondary

2011-08-31T10:05:36Z

Ryan Lutz: Redirected page to CEB Press/Manufacturing Instructions/Arms - secondary

#redirect [[CEB Press/Manufacturing Instructions/Arms - secondary]]

Bettermeans

2011-08-31T01:57:06Z

Ryan Lutz:

{{Third Party Websites}}
[http://bettermeans.com Bettermeans] is an online project management system. Currently in beta, it is available for non-profit use free of charge. It is based on an "Open Enterprise" model which is a decentralized meritocratic community-based process for managing projects [http://www.youtube.com/v/IdcAxGGRafc&hl=en_US] unlike other tools which are based on a command and control environment. It provides task tracking, participation tracking, forums for discussion, document storage, and project news. All information can be easily exported into a variety of formats including csv.

==How to Participate on a Bettermeans Project==
To get started, all you have to do is go to the workstream for the project you want to contribute to and login with your Google or other OpenID credential (just like this wiki). You will be able to see open and completed items, add items to the queue, start working on items, and providing input via the voting mechanism. See [http://help.bettermeans.com/membership help.bettermeans.com/membership] for more information on membership/contributor levels and how they affect the decision making process.

==Overview/How to Use==
See [http://help.bettermeans.com/ help.bettermeans.com] for detailed information. The following video explains key concepts and workflows:
<html>
<object width="640" height="390"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/0wJAf229YUs&hl=en_US&feature=player_embedded&version=3"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowScriptAccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/0wJAf229YUs&hl=en_US&feature=player_embedded&version=3" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" allowScriptAccess="always" width="640" height="390"></embed></object></html>

==Use of Bettermeans in OSE==
The following projects use Bettermeans for coordination:
*Wiki Reorg [https://secure.bettermeans.com/projects/2187 (workstream)]
*Volunteer Coordination System [https://secure.bettermeans.com/projects/2252 (workstream)]

[[Category:Software]]
[[Category:IT Infrastructure]]

Template:Third Party Websites

2011-08-31T01:56:12Z

Ryan Lutz: Created page with "<div align=center> {| class="wikitable" align="center" style="text-align:center;" !colspan=3| <font size=4> Third Party Websites</font> |- |'''IRC - Make Projects - [[Be..."

<div align=center>
{| class="wikitable" align="center" style="text-align:center;"
!colspan=3| <font size=4> Third Party Websites</font>
|-
|'''[[IRC]] - [[Make Projects]] - [[Bettermeans]] - [[PivotalTracker]]
|-
|}
</div>

[[Category:Communications]]

Template:Warning

2011-08-30T09:18:37Z

Ryan Lutz: Took away the category marker because it tags every page that uses the template with the 'Warning' category as well

<noinclude>
This template is used for warnings on manufacturing instructions. Here's a sample usage of this template:
<pre>
{{warning|an example of how to use the "warning" template}}
</pre>
</noinclude><div style="margin: 20px 50px; padding: 3px; border: 2px dashed red; text-align: center; background-color: #F6CECE">
[[Image:Warning.png|30px]] '''Warning:''' {{{1}}}
</div>

CEB Press/Manufacturing Instructions

2011-08-30T00:54:56Z

Ryan Lutz:

{{Under Construction Log}}
{{OrigLang}}
{{ToolTemplate|ToolName=CEB Press}}
{{Template:CEB Press Manufacturing Instructions Navbox}}

This page is the starting point for making a CEB Press:
*The Fabrication section details the process of making the parts from raw materials
*The Assembly section identifies the process of putting the parts together to form the machine
*The Programming section deals with automating the process by using a microcontroller called an Arduino to control the hydraulic system
*The Testing section describes processes to perform to test the functionality of a CEB Press

==Fabrication==

#[[CEB Press/Manufacturing Instructions/Arms - primary|Arms - primary]]
#[[CEB Press/Manufacturing Instructions/Arms - secondary|Arms - secondary]]
#[[CEB Press/Manufacturing Instructions/Feet|Feet]]
#[[CEB Press/Manufacturing Instructions/Frame with main cylinder|Frame with main cylinder]]
#[[CEB Press/Manufacturing Instructions/Grate mounts|Grate mounts]]
#[[CEB Press/Manufacturing Instructions/Hopper sheet metal|Hopper sheet metal]]
#[[CEB Press/Manufacturing Instructions/Hopper mounting plate|Hopper mounting plate]]
#[[CEB Press/Manufacturing Instructions/Hopper supports|Hopper supports]]
#[[CEB Press/Manufacturing Instructions/Hoses - Secondary cylinder hose unit|Hoses - Secondary cylinder hose unit]]
#[[CEB Press/Manufacturing Instructions/Hoses - Shaker and main cylinder|Hoses - Shaker and main cylinder]]
#[[CEB Press/Manufacturing Instructions/Hoses - Main hose unit|Hoses - Main hose unit]]
#[[CEB Press/Manufacturing Instructions/Leg Holders|Leg Holders]]
#[[CEB Press/Manufacturing Instructions/Roller guides|Roller guides]]
#[[CEB Press/Manufacturing Instructions/Secondary cylinder|Secondary cylinder]]
#[[CEB Press/Manufacturing Instructions/Secondary cylinder sensor unit|Secondary cylinder sensor unit]]
#[[CEB Press/Manufacturing Instructions/Soil grate|Soil grate]]
#[[CEB Press/Manufacturing Instructions/Soil loading drawer|Soil loading drawer]]
#[[CEB Press/Manufacturing Instructions/Soil Shaker motor unit|Soil Shaker motor unit]]
#[[CEB Press/Manufacturing Instructions/Soil Shaker|Soil Shaker]]

OPTION:

'''Manual'''

*[[CEB Press/Manufacturing Instructions/Hydraulic control valve|Hydraulic control valve]]

'''Automatic'''

*[[CEB Press/Manufacturing Instructions/Controller Box|Controller Box]]
*[[CEB Press/Manufacturing Instructions/Solenoid valve|Solenoid valve]]
*[[CEB Press/Manufacturing Instructions/Detroit Fab Lab Solenoid Driver|Solenoid Driver]]

==Assembly==

[[The Liberator Assembly | Final Assembly and Job Site Setup]]

==Programming==

An Arduino is the microprocessor that controls the CEB Press's actions. It must be programmed with the CEB Press's unique program for making bricks.

Source code can be found at github: https://github.com/OSE/ceb-controller

Old code:
*[[CEB Control Source Code v1.01 Annotated]]
*[[CEB Control Source Code v1.01]]
*[[CEB Control Source Code v1.0]]

*[http://openpario.mime.oregonstate.edu/documents/537 Control Code Site]

==Testing==

Template:CEB Press Manufacturing Instructions Navbox

2011-08-30T00:28:28Z

Ryan Lutz:

{{Navbox

|bodystyle = background:#fdfdfd; width:100%; vertical-align:middle; text-align:center;
|titlestyle = background:#ccccff; padding-left:1em; padding-right:1em; text-align:center;
|abovestyle = background:#ddddff; padding-left:1em; padding-right:1em; text-align:center;
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|liststyle = background:transparent; text-align:left/center;
|oddstyle = background:transparent;
|evenstyle = background:#f7f7f7;

| name = Navbox/doc
| title = [[CEB Press/Manufacturing Instructions|CEB Press Manufacturing Instructions]]

| group1 = '''Prepare'''
| list1 = [[CEB Press/Manufacturing Instructions/Safety|Safety]] {{·}} [[CEB Press/Manufacturing Instructions/Workspace|Workspace]] {{·}} [[CEB Press/Manufacturing Instructions/Tools|Tools]] {{·}} [[CEB Press/Manufacturing Instructions/Raw Materials|Raw Materials]]

| group2 =
| list2 =

| group3 =
| list3 =

| group4 = '''Components Fabrication'''
| list4 =

*''Structural'': [[CEB Press/Manufacturing Instructions/Arms - primary|Primary Arms]] {{·}} [[CEB Press/Manufacturing Instructions/Arms - secondary|Secondary Arms]] {{·}} [[CEB Press/Manufacturing Instructions/Feet|Feet]] {{·}} [[CEB Press/Manufacturing Instructions/Frame with main cylinder|Frame (including main cylinder)]] {{·}} [[CEB Press/Manufacturing Instructions/Soil grate|Soil grate]] {{·}} [[CEB Press/Manufacturing Instructions/Grate mounts|Grate mounts]] {{·}} [[CEB Press/Manufacturing Instructions/Hopper sheet metal|Hopper (sheet metal)]] {{·}} [[CEB Press/Manufacturing Instructions/Hopper mounting plate|Hopper (mounting plate)]] {{·}} [[CEB Press/Manufacturing Instructions/Hopper supports|Hopper (supports)]] {{·}} [[CEB Press/Manufacturing Instructions/Leg Holders|Leg Holders]]

*''Hydraulics'': [[CEB Press/Manufacturing Instructions/Frame with main cylinder|Main cylinder]] {{·}} [[CEB Press/Manufacturing Instructions/Secondary cylinder|Secondary cylinder]] {{·}} [[CEB Press/Manufacturing Instructions/Hoses - Secondary cylinder hose unit|Secondary cylinder hose unit]] {{·}} [[CEB Press/Manufacturing Instructions/Hoses - Shaker and main cylinder|Shaker and main cylinder hoses]] {{·}} [[CEB Press/Manufacturing Instructions/Hoses - Main hose unit|Main hose unit]]

*''Moving metal parts'': [[CEB Press/Manufacturing Instructions/Roller guides|Roller guides]] {{·}} [[CEB Press/Manufacturing Instructions/Soil loading drawer|Soil loading drawer]] {{·}} [[CEB Press/Manufacturing Instructions/Soil Shaker motor unit|Soil Shaker motor unit]] {{·}} [[CEB Press/Manufacturing Instructions/Soil Shaker|Soil Shaker]]

*''Electronics'': [[CEB Press/Manufacturing Instructions/Controller Box|Controller Box]] {{·}} [[CEB Press/Manufacturing Instructions/Secondary cylinder sensor unit|Secondary cylinder sensor unit]]

| group5 =
| list5 =

| group6 = '''Programming'''
| list6 = [http://openpario.mime.oregonstate.edu/documents/537 Github OSE Code Repository] {{·}} [[CEB Press/Manufacturing Instructions/Control Source Code v1.01 Annotated|Control Source Code v1.01 Annotated]] {{·}} [[CEB Press/Manufacturing Instructions/Control Source Code v1.01|Control Source Code v1.01]] {{·}} [[CEB Press/Manufacturing Instructions/Control Source Code v1.0|Control Source Code v1.0]] {{·}} [[CEB Press/Manufacturing Instructions/Control Source Code v1.0 Explained|Control Source Code v1.0 Explained]]

| group7 =
| list7 =

| group8 = '''Finish'''
| list8 = [[CEB Press/Manufacturing Instructions/Paint|Paint]] {{·}} [[CEB Press/Manufacturing Instructions/Test|Test]]

}}

CEB Press/Manufacturing Instructions/Roller guides

2011-08-30T00:22:53Z

Ryan Lutz:

[[Image:roller-guides.jpg|thumb]]

See also [[CEB Press/Bill of Materials]]

== Tools Required ==
*Hole punch or drill with 1/2” bit
*Welder
*Angle Grinder

== Materials Required ==
You need 2 roller guides. Each one requires the following:

===Steel:===
*1/2”x3”x12” plate (1)
*Spacer plate (1) (One roller guide will use a 3/8" thick plate, and the other will use a 1/2" plate)(these can be scrap, but need to be smaller than 3”x9.5”)

===Bolts:===
*1/2”x2” bolt (1)
*12mm x 50mm bolts (2)

===Nuts:===
*1/2” nut (1)
*12mm nuts (2)

===Washers:===
*1/2” washer (1)
*1/2” lock washer (1)
*12mm lock washers (4)

===Bearings:===
* V Groove bearing 12mm [http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/Kit8406 Buy]

== Diagrams ==
[[Image:RollerGuidesDrill.jpg|500px]]

[[Image:RollerGuideExploded.jpg|500px]]
[[Image:RollerGuideCollapsed.jpg|500px]]

== Fabrication Steps ==
===Main plate:===
*Punch 1/2” diameter holes in 1/2”x3”x12” plate. (3 holes) See diagram.
*Put 1/2” bolt thru the center hole and weld it in place.

===Spacer plates:===
*Punch a hole for the bolt welded to main plate. This should be centered horizontally, and placed vertically so that the plate doesn't stick out from the main plate.

===12mm bolts:===
*Grind off the top of the bolts so that the head is 1/4” thick or less. (This is so that the bolts will not be touching the drawer as it slides in and out.)

===Assembly:===
*On the 12mm bolts, place, in the following order, the V groove bearings, one lock washer, the main plate, one lock washer, the 12mm nut. The bearings should be on the side of the 1/2” bolt head.
*Place one of these on each end of the main plate.
*Tighten them down.
*On the side with the 1/2” bolt threads, place the spacer plate** on the bolt.

**The two roller guides will be identical, except for that one will have a 1/2” spacer plate, and the other will have a 3/8” spacer plate (this is to properly space the guides to the rails on the drawers).

{{Template:CEB Press Manufacturing Instructions Navbox}}
[[Category:CEB Press]]

Logs/Conference Calls

2011-08-29T23:26:25Z

Ryan Lutz: /* Work to be Done */

==Monday, 8/29/2011 2PM CDT==
In attendence:
*[[User:Ryan Lutz]]
*[[User:Chris F]]
*[[User:Marshall Smith]]

*Called to order
*talked about how much we like logs
*Discussing templates and previous work
*3D Models thingisverse
*page content
*getting involved Dozuki make projects
*GVCS chart

===Work to be Done===

[https://secure.bettermeans.com/projects/2187/dashboard see Bettermeans dashboard for the most up-to-date tasks]

*Marshall to change FeF category to Factor e Farm
*Chris to check with Marcin regarding Ryan's blog post
*Ryan to rewrite blog post with
**Bettermeans
**Required Reading/other new templates
**Filling in 'wanted' templates
*Obvious link to Requests Category page and Bettermeans dashboard
*'More' section on OSE Req'd Reading

Template:GVCS List

2011-08-29T21:25:04Z

Ryan Lutz:

<noinclude>{{OrigLang}}</noinclude>

{| class="infobox" border="2" cellpadding=".5" cellspacing="0" align="center" width=95% font-size: 85%;
! style="background:lightgray;padding:0.2em; border solid thin #0000CC; text-align:center; margin-bottom:5px; font-size:larger;" colspan="11"|{{LinkLang|Global Village Construction Set|The Global Village Construction Set}}
|-
! style="background:sandybrown;color:white;font-size:larger;border:3px groove #2F4F4F" | Habitat
! style="background:tan;font-size:smaller" | {{LinkLang|CEB_Press|CEB Press}} || style="background:#66CCCC;font-size:smaller" | {{LinkLang|Cement Mixer}} || style="background:#66CCCC;font-size:smaller" | {{LinkLang|Sawmill}}
|-
! style="background:#9ACD32;color:white;font-size:larger;border:3px groove #2F4F4F" rowspan="3" | Agriculture || style="background:tan;font-size:smaller" | {{LinkLang|LifeTrac|Tractor}} || style="background:violet;font-size:smaller" | {{LinkLang|Bulldozer}} || style="font-size:smaller" | [[Seeder]] || style="font-size:smaller" | [[Hay_Rake |Hay Rake]] || style="background:violet;font-size:smaller" | {{LinkLang|Backhoe}}
|-
! style="font-size:smaller;background:violet" | {{LinkLang|MicroTrac|Microtractor}} ||style="background:violet;font-size:smaller" | {{LinkLang|Rototiller}} || style="font-size:smaller" | {{LinkLang|Spader}} || style="font-size:smaller" | [[Hay Cutter]] || style="font-size:smaller" | [[Trencher]]
|-
! style="font-size:smaller" | {{LinkLang|Bakery_Oven|Bakery Oven}} || style="font-size:smaller" | [[Dairy_Milker|Dairy Milker]] || style="font-size:smaller" | {{LinkLang|Microcombine|Microcombine}} || style="font-size:smaller" | {{LinkLang|Baler}} || style="font-size:smaller" | {{LinkLang|Well-Drilling Rig}}
|-
! style="background:dimgray;color:white;font-size:larger;border:3px groove #2F4F4F" rowspan="3"| Industry || ! style="background:#66CCCC;font-size:smaller" | {{LinkLang|Multimachine}} ||style="background:violet;font-size:smaller" | {{LinkLang|Ironworker|Ironworker}} || style="font-size:smaller;background:#66CCCC" | [[Laser Cutter]] || style="font-size:smaller" | [[Welder | Welder]] || style="font-size:smaller" | {{LinkLang|Plasma Cutter Intro|Plasma Cutter}} || style="font-size:smaller" | {{LinkLang|Induction Furnace|Induction Furnace}}
|-
! style="background:violet;font-size:smaller" | [[CNC_Torch_Table| CNC Torch Table]] || style="font-size:smaller" | {{LinkLang|Metal Roller}} || style="font-size:smaller" | [[Rod and Wire Mill]] || style="font-size:smaller" | [[Press Forge]] || style="background:violet;font-size:smaller" | {{LinkLang|Universal Rotor}} || style="font-size:smaller;background:violet" | {{LinkLang|Drill Press}}
|-
! style="font-size:smaller" | [[3D Printer]] || style="font-size:smaller" | {{LinkLang|3D Scanner}} || style="font-size:smaller" | {{LinkLang|CNC Circuit Mill}} || style="background:#66CCCC;font-size:smaller" | [[Industrial Robot]] || style="font-size:smaller" | {{LinkLang|Chipper Hammermill|Chipper/Hammermill}}
|-
! style="background: #FFD700;color:white;font-size:larger;border:3px groove #2F4F4F" rowspan="2" | Energy || style="background:tan;font-size:smaller" | {{LinkLang|Power Cube}} || style="font-size:smaller" | [[Gasifier Burner]] || style="font-size:smaller" | [[Solar Concentrator]] || style="font-size:smaller" | {{LinkLang|Electric Motor Generator|Electric Motor/Generator}} || style="font-size:smaller" | {{LinkLang|Hydraulic Motor}} || style="font-size:smaller" | {{LinkLang|Nickel-Iron Battery}}
|-
! style="background:#66CCCC;font-size:smaller" | [[Steam Engine|Steam Engine]] || style="font-size:smaller" | {{LinkLang|Steam Generator}} || style="font-size:smaller" | {{LinkLang|Wind Turbine|Wind Turbine}} || style="font-size:smaller" | [[Pelletizer]] || style="font-size:smaller" | {{LinkLang|Universal Power Supply}}
|-
! style="background:brown;color:white;font-size:larger;border:3px groove #2F4F4F" | Materials || style="font-size:smaller" | {{LinkLang|Aluminum Extractor|Aluminum Extractor}} || style="font-size:smaller" | [[Bioplastic Extruder]] || style="border:0px" | || style="border:0px" | || style="border:0px" | || style="border:0px" | || style="background:#efefef;font-size:smaller" | Key:
|-
! style="background:black;color:white;font-size:larger;border:3px groove #2F4F4F" | Transportation || style="font-size:smaller" | {{LinkLang|Open Source Car|Car}} || style="font-size:smaller" | {{LinkLang|Open Source Truck|Truck}} || style="border:0px" | || style="background:#66CCCC;font-size:smaller" | Development|| style="background:violet;font-size:smaller" | Prototyping || style="background:tan;font-size:smaller" | Documentation || style="background:lightgreen;font-size:smaller" | Full Release
|}

Logs/Conference Calls

2011-08-29T20:10:15Z

Ryan Lutz:

==Monday, 8/29/2011 2PM CDT==
In attendence:
*[[User:Ryan Lutz]]
*[[User:Chris F]]
*[[User:Marshall Smith]]

*Called to order
*talked about how much we like logs
*Discussing templates and previous work
*3D Models thingisverse
*page content
*getting involved Dozuki make projects
*GVCS chart

===Work to be Done===

*Marshall to change FeF category to Factor e Farm
*Chris to check with Marcin regarding Ryan's blog post
*Ryan to rewrite blog post with
**Bettermeans
**Required Reading/other new templates
**Filling in 'wanted' templates
*Obvious link to Requests Category page and Bettermeans dashboard
*'More' section on OSE Req'd Reading

Logs/Conference Calls

2011-08-29T19:54:32Z

Ryan Lutz: Created page with "==Monday, 8/29/2011 2PM CDT== In attendence: *User:Ryan Lutz *User:Chris F *User:Marshall Smith *Called to order *talked about how much we like logs *Discussing tem..."

==Monday, 8/29/2011 2PM CDT==
In attendence:
*[[User:Ryan Lutz]]
*[[User:Chris F]]
*[[User:Marshall Smith]]

*Called to order
*talked about how much we like logs
*Discussing templates and previous work
*3D Models thingisverse
*page content
*getting involved Dozuki make projects
*GVCS chart

===Work to be Done===

*Marshall to change FeF category to Factor e Farm
*Chris to check with Marcin regarding Ryan's blog post
*Ryan to rewrite blog post with
**Bettermeans
**Required Reading/other new templates
**Filling in 'wanted' templates
*Obvious link to Requests Category page and Bettermeans
*'More' section on OSE Req'd Reading
**

Power Cube/Manufacturing Instructions

2011-08-27T02:46:52Z

Ryan Lutz:

{{ToolTemplate|ToolName=Power Cube}}
{{Power_Cube_Manufacturing_Instructions_Navbox}}

==Overview==
[[Image:Powercube4.jpg]]

===Preparation===
'''Tools'''
*Welder
*Cutting
**Bandsaw
**Chopsaw
**Torch

Assembly Instructions

==Subassembly Fabrication==
Many of the items listed in the Bill Of Materials require preparation before use in assembly of the Power Cube. This includes drilling and cutting steel up to 3/8” in thickness. These are the parts for assembling a Power Cube.

=====Engine mounts=====
* ¼” x 8” x 12” Plate
* ¼” x 8” x 9” Plate
* ¼” x 2” x 2” x 8” Angle
* ¼” x 2” x 2” x 29” Angle
*[[Image:EngineMount.jpg|700px]]

=====Hydraulic pump mount=====
*¼” x 8” x 8” Plate

*[[Image:HydraulicPumpMount.jpg|400px]]

=====Quick attach mounts=====
*[2] 3/8” x 4” x 27” Plates
[[Image:QAMount.jpg]]
[[Image:QAPlates.jpg|400px]]

=====Fuel tank=====
*[2] ¼” x 4” x 8” Plates
*4” x 8” x 14 ½” Tube
*¼” x 2” x 24” Plate

* All welds assembling the tank must be quality welds, as they must not leak. Be careful not to “over weld” the tank to the mount.
* Clean the inside of the ¼” x 4” x 8” tube and the two ¼” x 4” x 8” plates – anything left on these surfaces will end up in the gasoline and could clog the engine when started. Tack and weld the plates on each end of the tube, taking care to orient the top plate with the filler hole as shown in the diagram below.
*Weld the 1/4” tank flange to the smaller hole.

[[Image:FuelTankMount.jpg|600px]]
[[Image:FuelTankMount2.jpg|400px]]

=====Oil Cooler Mount=====
*[2] ¼” x 2” x 24” Plates
*[2] ¼” x 2” x 22” Plates
*[2] ¼” x 2” x 1” Plates
[[Image:OilCoolerMount.jpg|400px]]

=====Key Switches and Choke=====
*[3] 1/8” x 2” x 2” x 2” Angle
[[Image:KeySwitches.jpg|400px]]

=====Electrical cables=====
*Note: The connectors can be purchased from an auto parts store – be aware that they usually require a crimper to attach to the cables. Alternatively, 3/8” copper tubing can be used in 1 ½” long pieces instead. Strip 1 ½” insulation from the cable, fully insert fully into 1 ½” copper tube, flatten end with a hammer and drill hole.
[[Image:ElectricalCables.jpg]]
*[2] 11” 1 gauge
*8 ½” 1 gauge
[[Image:ElectricalCables2.jpg]]

====Battery Mount====
*[2] ¼” x 2” x 2” x 4 3/4” Angle
*[2] ¼” x 2” x 5/8” Plate
[[Image:BatteryMount.jpg|400px]]

====Hydraulic reservoir====
*[2] ¼” x 6” x 12”
*6” x 12” x 27 ½” Tube
*2” x 2 ¼” x 1/8” Tube
* All welds assembling the reservoir must be quality welds that do not leak. Be careful not to “over weld” the reservoir.
* Clean the inside of the tube and the two end plates – anything on these surfaces will end up in the hydraulic oil and could damage the pump or cylinders.
* Tack and weld the 6” x 12” plates to both ends of the 6” x 12” tube. Pay attention to the orientation of the plate with the filler hole and the side of the tube with other holes – see the diagram below.

[[Image:HydraulicReservoir.jpg]]

* Tack and weld the strainer extension tube to the tank, centered around the strainer hole.
* Insert the strainer into the flange and insert it into the strainer extension tube – verify that it slides without binding or bottoming and that the flange is flush with the end of the tube. Remove the strainer from the flange, then tack and weld the flange to the tank.
CAUTION: Keep the strainer away from the welding, as its thin wires burn easily.
* Suction strainer, weld-in flange, 2” x 2 ¼” x 1/8” tube:

[[Image:HydraulicReservoir2.jpg]]

==Assembly==
Power Cube assembly requires all the parts listed in the Bill Of Materials to be available and prepared as detailed in the “Fabrication” section (above). Assembly requires a welder (electric or torch) capable of welding metal 3/8” thick.

A [[Power Cube Jig]] can be very useful during the welding stage.

====Top / Bottom Rectangles====
*Position two ¼” x 2” x 2” x 29” pieces angle iron on top of two 27” angle pieces as shown below. Check that all joints are square, then tack and weld joints.
[[Image:PowerCubeAssemblyFrame1.jpg]]
*With one welded rectangle on the bottom, position the 24” pieces outside corner joints as shown below. Check that the angles are square, then tack and weld.
[[Image:PowerCubeAssemblyFrame2.jpg]]
*Position the second rectangle as shown below, then tack and weld. Inspect all corners to verify secure welds.
[[Image:PowerCubeAssemblyFrame3.jpg]]

====Gas tank====

*Screw the 1/4" hose barb into the 1/4 NPT flange welded into the gas tank.
*Perform a “soap bubble” test on the tank. Securely cover the larger hole (use something like strong tape), pressurize the tank using the smaller hole and cover the tank surface with soapy water. Look closely for new bubbles, mark any leaks and re-weld securely. Repeat soap bubble test if re-welded.
*Tack and weld the gas tank mount (¼” x 2” x 24” plate) to the frame.
*Tack and weld the gas tank to the gas tank mount as shown below.
*[[Image:PowerCubeAssemblyGas2.jpg]]

====Hydraulic tank====

*Perform a “soap bubble” test on the tank by securely covering the larger hole (use something like strong tape), pressurizing the tank using the smaller hole and cover the tank surface with soapy water. Mark any leaks and re-weld securely. Repeat soap bubble test if re-welded.
*Weld it to the frame as shown with 4 1” welds. The tank is ¼” and it can be easily damaged by over-welding. Spacers may be needed on the sides near the top to keep everything snug.

====Engine Mounts and Hydraulic Motor Mount====
*Position the ¼” x 2” x 2” x 29” angle 12 ½” from the hydraulic tank (see diagram below). Tack and weld it to the frame.
[[Image:PowerCubeAssemblyMounts1.jpg]]
*Place the ¼” x 8” x 8” plate on the angle iron and secure with two bolts.
*Place the ¼” x 2” x 2” x 8” angle on top of the ¼” x 8” x 12” plate, align the bolt holes and secure with two bolts. Align this assembly with the ¼” x 8” x 8” plate in the prior step and position the angle against the hydraulic tank, 3” below the tank top as in the diagram below, then tack and weld to tank.*<image>
*Tack and weld the corner formed by the two 8” plates.
*Examine the engine shaft – it should be 3” long. If longer, cut the shaft to 3” long.
*Place the engine on its mounting plate and verify that the shaft extends through the hole.

====Battery mount====
*Weld the ¼” x 2” x 5/8” plates to the ends of the ¼” x 2” x 2” x 4 3/4” plates as shown below.
[[Image:PowerCubeAssemblyBatteryMount1.jpg]]
*Weld the two mounts to the angle iron and tank to form a rectangle for the battery as shown below.*<image>
*After the mount has cooled, lower the battery into the rectangle to verify it fits properly.

====Oil cooler and fan mounts====
*Position the two ¼” x 2” x 22” plates to the outside of the frame, adjust so the oil cooler mounting bolts match the holes in the plates and is positioned as in the diagram below. Tack and weld the mounts in to the frame. Verify that the oil cooler bolts match the holes in the mounts.
*Use the mounting holes in the fan shroud and the oil cooler width for positioning the mounting plates as shown in the diagram below. Position the four ¼” x 2” x 1” plates, then tack and weld. Position the two ¼” x 2” x 24” plates against the 1” plates, then tack and weld. Place the fan on the supports and mark the mounts with bolt hole positions. Place the bolt heads against the fan mounting plate and weld in place. Verify that the bolts match the holes in the fan. Inside the frame, adjust the fan position to to position fan shroud ¼” from oil cooler fins. Be careful with radiator as the delicate fins are easily bent and damaged.*

====Solenoid Mounting and Installation====
* Weld the solenoid mounting bolts to the hydraulic reservoir as shown below. Once cooled, secure the solenoid on the bolts with two nuts.
[[image:SolenoidMount.jpg]]

====Keyswitch Brackets and installation====
* Weld the 1/8” x 2” x2” x 2” angle brackets to the frame in the positions shown below. Note that the keyswitch brackets have larger holes than the choke bracket.
[[image:KeyswitchBracket.jpg]]
* Install the keyswitches in the brackets and wire as in the wiring illustration below.
[[image:KeyswitchWiring.jpg]]

====Choke Bracket and installation====
* Weld the 1/8” x 2” x2” x 2” angle bracket to the frame in the positions shown below.
* Secure the engine choke knob as shown in the illustration below
[[image:ChokeBracket.jpg]]

====Throttle Adjustment====
* Use a wire to permanently set the throttle adjustment to full throttle as shown below
[[image:ThrottleAdjustment.jpg]]

===See Also===
See also [[Power_Cube_Fabrication_Procedure]] for older model.

Work in progress by Tom Griffing - [[File:powercube.odt]]

==Previous Versions==

[[Power Cube/Manufacturing Instructions/Fabrication June 2011|Power Cube Fabrication June 2011]]

Bulldozer

2011-08-27T02:28:28Z

Ryan Lutz:

{{Category=Farm equipment}}
{{ToolTemplate|ToolName=Bulldozer}}
[[Image:Bulldozer.jpg|right
]]
From [[Proposal 2012 Outline]]:

''Definition'' – A bulldozer is a high-traction, earth-moving machine indispensible to building ponds, berms, or other earth-moving tasks such as building roads or clearing land.

''Problem Statement'' – A bulldozer is an expensive and specialized machine. Few permaculturists have access to such machines, thereby not being able to perform constructive terraforming activities for improving the ecology of landscapes or for mitigating erosion. Renting a bulldozer costs $500 per day plus transport. Access to a bulldozer allows any community to reduce its infrastructure cost significantly.

''Solution'' – The GVCS involves a ready modification of LifeTrac to make it suitable for bulldozing duty. LifeTrac has already been built with high-traction, metal wheel tracks. To allow LifeTrac to have 4-10,000 lbs of pushing force, the drive on LifeTrac must be geared down significantly (3-10 times). The flexible design of LifeTrac allows for an easy retrofit of gearing chain drive, which allows LifeTrac to be converted into a bulldozer at a cost of about $1k, as opposed to $15k for the smallest available commercial bulldozer.

''Further Information'' – See [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bulldozer Wikipedia - Bulldozer]

''Development Status and Needs'' – The LifeTrac platform is at the Prototype II stage of development, which is sufficient for testing the bulldozer-duty retrofit. We are ready for the design stage of the bulldozer with LifeTrac as the base platform for this development.

=Links=
*From How Things are Made - madehow.com - [http://www.madehow.com/Volume-3/Bulldozer.html]

[[Category:GVCS]]
[[Category:Earth moving]]
{{GVCS_List}}

Power Cube/Manufacturing Instructions/Fabrication June 2011

2011-08-27T02:25:53Z

Ryan Lutz:

=Power Cube 4.0 Construction=

[[Image:PowerCubeFrameCAD.jpg|800px]]

Here's how to replicate our Powercube 4.0 design. Keep in mind that this the powercube is still at the prototype stages and designs are likely to change. There's also a few fittings /wires that are not reflected in this design. Aside from that, there should be enough information here to construct your very own OSE PowerCube 4.0!

<html>
<iframe width="425" height="349" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed//NEYMDD9T718" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe></html>
<html>
<iframe width="425" height="349" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed//703w_qBifXY" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
</html>

All designs, CAD drawings, media and documentation are mirrored on [http://openpario.mime.oregonstate.edu/projects/powercube/documents OpenPario].

== BOM ==

{|
| align="center" style="background:#f0f0f0;"|'''Name'''
| align="center" style="background:#f0f0f0;"|'''Quantity'''
| align="center" style="background:#f0f0f0;"|'''Dimensions'''
|-
| '''ENGINE ASSEMBLY'''||1||
|-
| Engine ||1||
|-
| Mounting Plate - Hydraulic Motor||1|| 8"x10"x1/4"
|-
| Connector Plate||1||8"x3.75"x1/4"
|-
| Mounting Angle||2||8"x(2"x1/4")
|-
| Engine Mount Plate||1||8"x23"x1/4"
|-
| Lovejoy Coupler||1||2.5"x2.25"
|-
| Hydraulic Motor||1||
|-
| Gas Tank||1||14"x6"x6"
|-
| '''FUEL FILTER ASSEMBLY'''||1||
|-
| Fuel Filter Fitting||1||
|-
| Fuel Filter||1||3.5"x5"
|-
| '''FRAME ASSEMBLY'''||1||24"x27.5"x30"
|-
| 24" Angle ||4||24"x(2"x1/4")
|-
| 27" Angle ||4||27"x(2"x1/4")
|-
| 29" Angle ||6||29"x(2"x1/4")
|-
| '''HYDRAULIC TANK ASSEMBLY'''||1||19"x29"x4"
|-
| Hydraulic Tank Plates||2||19"x29"x1/4"
|-
| Flat - Hydraulic Sides||2||19"x3.5"x1/4"
|-
| Flat - Hydraulic Bottom/Top||2||3.5"x28.5"x1/4"
|-
| Battery||1||5"x6"x7.5"
|-
| Hydraulic Mount||2||4.75"x3"
|}

==Total Metal to Purchase (summary)==

{|
| align="center" style="background:#f0f0f0;"|'''Type'''
| align="center" style="background:#f0f0f0;"|'''Width'''
| align="center" style="background:#f0f0f0;"|'''Thickness'''
| align="center" style="background:#f0f0f0;"|'''Total Length (rounded up)'''
|-
| Angle||2"||1/4"||400"
|-
| Plate||19"||1/4"||60"
|-
| Plate||8"||1/4"||40"
|-
| Plate||6"||1/4"||12"
|-
| Plate||3.5"||1/4"||100"
|-
| Tube||6"||1/4"||14"
|}

== Frame ==

The Power Cube 4.0 (as of this prototype at least) is not actually a strict cube. But more of a lopsided box.) The longest dimensions are on the side (left to right), while the shortest dimension is up/down. See below.

<html>
<iframe width="560" height="349" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed//1InlPCks6cE" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
</html>

[[Image:PowerCubeFramePhoto.jpg|600px]]

The frame is assembled in halves, and tack/welded in place. A completed frame should look like like this.

[[Image:PowerCubeFrameSketch.jpg|800px]]

Note the overlap order. Short angles (green) on the outside.

Assuming everything goes well on the welding, you should have your very own OSE PowerCube 4.0 Frame!

[[Image:PowerCubeFramePic.jpg|800px]]

==Assembly==
[[Image:PowerCubeFrameAssembly.jpg]]

The open frame of the power cube makes assembly a snap. Just slide pieces into place, tack and weld away. Later designs will likely feature a little less intensive welding, but for now, it is a solid construction technique.

===Mounting Assembly===
[[Image:MountingCAD.jpg]]

<html>
<iframe width="425" height="349" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed//LnCRry5oPpc" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
</html>

[[Image:HydraulicMountPlate4.jpg]]

[[Image:EngineMountPlate4.jpg]]

[[Image:PowerCubeEngine4.jpg]]

===Hydraulic Tank Assembly===

[[Image:HydraulicTankCAD.jpg]]

Lay out a plate, tack and weld the 3.5" wide pieces vertically in a box shape atop it. Then lay the top plate atop and weld it in place.

[[Image:HydraulicTankCADHoles.jpg]]

Torch out holes in the top plate in the corners. 2" holes with the center 2"x2" offset from the sides

<html>
<iframe width="425" height="349" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed//GT957CJQNNo" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
</html>

This would be a good time to break out the soap bubbles and test for leaks on the weld. Assuming the tank is tight, go ahead and move it on into the frame and weld it in place. Spacers may be needed on the sides near the top to keep everything snug.

===Final===

Mount the hydraulic fittings, hydraulic motor, gas tank, battery and wires. Finish it up to complete your very own OSE Powercube 4.0!

<html>
<iframe width="560" height="349" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed//V78idrurW5U" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
</html>

----

= Jig (optional) =
[[Image:JigSketchup.jpg|400px]]
[[Image:JigCubeSketchup.jpg|400px]]

The jig is an optional piece of fabrication equipment that can be very useful to have should you be creating several power cubes concurrently. The materials for the cube are assembled in the jig in half sections and tacked and welded in place.

'''Materials List'''

Total Length
14' Angle (2"x1/4")
7'2" Rebar (1/2")

'''Cut List'''
{|
| align="center" style="background:#f0f0f0;"|'''Type'''
| align="center" style="background:#f0f0f0;"|'''Length'''
| align="center" style="background:#f0f0f0;"|'''Dimensions'''
| align="center" style="background:#f0f0f0;"|'''Quantity'''
| align="center" style="background:#f0f0f0;"|'''Color'''
|-
| Angle||22"|| (2"x1/4")||2||(red)
|-
| Angle||26"||(2"x1/4")||2||(yellow)
|-
| Angle||29"||(2"x1/4")||2||(green)
|-
| Rebar ||30.5"||(1/2")||1||
|-
| Rebar || 27"||(1/2")||2
|}

[[Image:JigAssembly.jpg|800px]]

Assembly of the Jig is fairly straight forward. Tack and weld the pieces in place.

[[Image:JigInsideCorner.jpg|600px]]
[[Image:JigInsideCornerPhoto.jpg|600px]]

Be sure to note the overlapping order and the notch made at the bottom of the 1'10 1/4" piece (red). Torch holes in the corners below the frame as seen above. This allows room for the welding torch to get to the PowerCube while welding.

[[Image:Jig Outside Corner.jpg|400px]]

Also note that the corners are offset 3/4" (1/2" measured on the interior), to give room for the cube to sit snugly in the frame (and a convenient gap for welding the corners.)

Tack weld the two shorter rebar sections at roughly a 45 degree angle on the sides. Add a long rebar section to span the gap. Precision is not as important with these, they are more there for stability.

With any luck, you'll have your jig, ready to crank out Power Cubes with!

[[Image:Jig.jpg|400px]]
Jig Fully Assembled.

=Muffler=
==Muffler Mound CAD==

In QCad:

[[Image:mufflermount.jpg]]

Uploaded to Open Pario - [http://openpario.mime.oregonstate.edu/documents/1236]

CAM file from [[DXF to G-code Converter]]:

[[Image:mufflermountCAM.jpg]]

Uploaded to Open Pario - [http://openpario.mime.oregonstate.edu/documents/1236]

[[Category: Power Cube]]

Power Cube/Manufacturing Instructions

2011-08-27T02:25:20Z

Ryan Lutz:

{{ToolTemplate|ToolName=Power Cube}}

==Overview==
[[Image:Powercube4.jpg]]

===Preparation===
'''Tools'''
*Welder
*Cutting
**Bandsaw
**Chopsaw
**Torch

Assembly Instructions

==Subassembly Fabrication==
Many of the items listed in the Bill Of Materials require preparation before use in assembly of the Power Cube. This includes drilling and cutting steel up to 3/8” in thickness. These are the parts for assembling a Power Cube.

=====Engine mounts=====
* ¼” x 8” x 12” Plate
* ¼” x 8” x 9” Plate
* ¼” x 2” x 2” x 8” Angle
* ¼” x 2” x 2” x 29” Angle
*[[Image:EngineMount.jpg|700px]]

=====Hydraulic pump mount=====
*¼” x 8” x 8” Plate

*[[Image:HydraulicPumpMount.jpg|400px]]

=====Quick attach mounts=====
*[2] 3/8” x 4” x 27” Plates
[[Image:QAMount.jpg]]
[[Image:QAPlates.jpg|400px]]

=====Fuel tank=====
*[2] ¼” x 4” x 8” Plates
*4” x 8” x 14 ½” Tube
*¼” x 2” x 24” Plate

* All welds assembling the tank must be quality welds, as they must not leak. Be careful not to “over weld” the tank to the mount.
* Clean the inside of the ¼” x 4” x 8” tube and the two ¼” x 4” x 8” plates – anything left on these surfaces will end up in the gasoline and could clog the engine when started. Tack and weld the plates on each end of the tube, taking care to orient the top plate with the filler hole as shown in the diagram below.
*Weld the 1/4” tank flange to the smaller hole.

[[Image:FuelTankMount.jpg|600px]]
[[Image:FuelTankMount2.jpg|400px]]

=====Oil Cooler Mount=====
*[2] ¼” x 2” x 24” Plates
*[2] ¼” x 2” x 22” Plates
*[2] ¼” x 2” x 1” Plates
[[Image:OilCoolerMount.jpg|400px]]

=====Key Switches and Choke=====
*[3] 1/8” x 2” x 2” x 2” Angle
[[Image:KeySwitches.jpg|400px]]

=====Electrical cables=====
*Note: The connectors can be purchased from an auto parts store – be aware that they usually require a crimper to attach to the cables. Alternatively, 3/8” copper tubing can be used in 1 ½” long pieces instead. Strip 1 ½” insulation from the cable, fully insert fully into 1 ½” copper tube, flatten end with a hammer and drill hole.
[[Image:ElectricalCables.jpg]]
*[2] 11” 1 gauge
*8 ½” 1 gauge
[[Image:ElectricalCables2.jpg]]

====Battery Mount====
*[2] ¼” x 2” x 2” x 4 3/4” Angle
*[2] ¼” x 2” x 5/8” Plate
[[Image:BatteryMount.jpg|400px]]

====Hydraulic reservoir====
*[2] ¼” x 6” x 12”
*6” x 12” x 27 ½” Tube
*2” x 2 ¼” x 1/8” Tube
* All welds assembling the reservoir must be quality welds that do not leak. Be careful not to “over weld” the reservoir.
* Clean the inside of the tube and the two end plates – anything on these surfaces will end up in the hydraulic oil and could damage the pump or cylinders.
* Tack and weld the 6” x 12” plates to both ends of the 6” x 12” tube. Pay attention to the orientation of the plate with the filler hole and the side of the tube with other holes – see the diagram below.

[[Image:HydraulicReservoir.jpg]]

* Tack and weld the strainer extension tube to the tank, centered around the strainer hole.
* Insert the strainer into the flange and insert it into the strainer extension tube – verify that it slides without binding or bottoming and that the flange is flush with the end of the tube. Remove the strainer from the flange, then tack and weld the flange to the tank.
CAUTION: Keep the strainer away from the welding, as its thin wires burn easily.
* Suction strainer, weld-in flange, 2” x 2 ¼” x 1/8” tube:

[[Image:HydraulicReservoir2.jpg]]

==Assembly==
Power Cube assembly requires all the parts listed in the Bill Of Materials to be available and prepared as detailed in the “Fabrication” section (above). Assembly requires a welder (electric or torch) capable of welding metal 3/8” thick.

A [[Power Cube Jig]] can be very useful during the welding stage.

====Top / Bottom Rectangles====
*Position two ¼” x 2” x 2” x 29” pieces angle iron on top of two 27” angle pieces as shown below. Check that all joints are square, then tack and weld joints.
[[Image:PowerCubeAssemblyFrame1.jpg]]
*With one welded rectangle on the bottom, position the 24” pieces outside corner joints as shown below. Check that the angles are square, then tack and weld.
[[Image:PowerCubeAssemblyFrame2.jpg]]
*Position the second rectangle as shown below, then tack and weld. Inspect all corners to verify secure welds.
[[Image:PowerCubeAssemblyFrame3.jpg]]

====Gas tank====

*Screw the 1/4" hose barb into the 1/4 NPT flange welded into the gas tank.
*Perform a “soap bubble” test on the tank. Securely cover the larger hole (use something like strong tape), pressurize the tank using the smaller hole and cover the tank surface with soapy water. Look closely for new bubbles, mark any leaks and re-weld securely. Repeat soap bubble test if re-welded.
*Tack and weld the gas tank mount (¼” x 2” x 24” plate) to the frame.
*Tack and weld the gas tank to the gas tank mount as shown below.
*[[Image:PowerCubeAssemblyGas2.jpg]]

====Hydraulic tank====

*Perform a “soap bubble” test on the tank by securely covering the larger hole (use something like strong tape), pressurizing the tank using the smaller hole and cover the tank surface with soapy water. Mark any leaks and re-weld securely. Repeat soap bubble test if re-welded.
*Weld it to the frame as shown with 4 1” welds. The tank is ¼” and it can be easily damaged by over-welding. Spacers may be needed on the sides near the top to keep everything snug.

====Engine Mounts and Hydraulic Motor Mount====
*Position the ¼” x 2” x 2” x 29” angle 12 ½” from the hydraulic tank (see diagram below). Tack and weld it to the frame.
[[Image:PowerCubeAssemblyMounts1.jpg]]
*Place the ¼” x 8” x 8” plate on the angle iron and secure with two bolts.
*Place the ¼” x 2” x 2” x 8” angle on top of the ¼” x 8” x 12” plate, align the bolt holes and secure with two bolts. Align this assembly with the ¼” x 8” x 8” plate in the prior step and position the angle against the hydraulic tank, 3” below the tank top as in the diagram below, then tack and weld to tank.*<image>
*Tack and weld the corner formed by the two 8” plates.
*Examine the engine shaft – it should be 3” long. If longer, cut the shaft to 3” long.
*Place the engine on its mounting plate and verify that the shaft extends through the hole.

====Battery mount====
*Weld the ¼” x 2” x 5/8” plates to the ends of the ¼” x 2” x 2” x 4 3/4” plates as shown below.
[[Image:PowerCubeAssemblyBatteryMount1.jpg]]
*Weld the two mounts to the angle iron and tank to form a rectangle for the battery as shown below.*<image>
*After the mount has cooled, lower the battery into the rectangle to verify it fits properly.

====Oil cooler and fan mounts====
*Position the two ¼” x 2” x 22” plates to the outside of the frame, adjust so the oil cooler mounting bolts match the holes in the plates and is positioned as in the diagram below. Tack and weld the mounts in to the frame. Verify that the oil cooler bolts match the holes in the mounts.
*Use the mounting holes in the fan shroud and the oil cooler width for positioning the mounting plates as shown in the diagram below. Position the four ¼” x 2” x 1” plates, then tack and weld. Position the two ¼” x 2” x 24” plates against the 1” plates, then tack and weld. Place the fan on the supports and mark the mounts with bolt hole positions. Place the bolt heads against the fan mounting plate and weld in place. Verify that the bolts match the holes in the fan. Inside the frame, adjust the fan position to to position fan shroud ¼” from oil cooler fins. Be careful with radiator as the delicate fins are easily bent and damaged.*

====Solenoid Mounting and Installation====
* Weld the solenoid mounting bolts to the hydraulic reservoir as shown below. Once cooled, secure the solenoid on the bolts with two nuts.
[[image:SolenoidMount.jpg]]

====Keyswitch Brackets and installation====
* Weld the 1/8” x 2” x2” x 2” angle brackets to the frame in the positions shown below. Note that the keyswitch brackets have larger holes than the choke bracket.
[[image:KeyswitchBracket.jpg]]
* Install the keyswitches in the brackets and wire as in the wiring illustration below.
[[image:KeyswitchWiring.jpg]]

====Choke Bracket and installation====
* Weld the 1/8” x 2” x2” x 2” angle bracket to the frame in the positions shown below.
* Secure the engine choke knob as shown in the illustration below
[[image:ChokeBracket.jpg]]

====Throttle Adjustment====
* Use a wire to permanently set the throttle adjustment to full throttle as shown below
[[image:ThrottleAdjustment.jpg]]

===See Also===
See also [[Power_Cube_Fabrication_Procedure]] for older model.

Work in progress by Tom Griffing - [[File:powercube.odt]]

==Previous Versions==

[[Power Cube/Manufacturing Instructions/Fabrication June 2011|Power Cube Fabrication June 2011]]

Power Cube/Manufacturing Instructions

2011-08-27T02:22:55Z

Ryan Lutz:

{{ToolTemplate|ToolName=Power Cube}}

=Overview=
[[Image:Powercube4.jpg]]

==Preparation==
'''Tools'''
*Welder
*Cutting
**Bandsaw
**Chopsaw
**Torch

Assembly Instructions

=Subassembly Fabrication=
Many of the items listed in the Bill Of Materials require preparation before use in assembly of the Power Cube. This includes drilling and cutting steel up to 3/8” in thickness. These are the parts for assembling a Power Cube.

====Engine mounts====
* ¼” x 8” x 12” Plate
* ¼” x 8” x 9” Plate
* ¼” x 2” x 2” x 8” Angle
* ¼” x 2” x 2” x 29” Angle
*[[Image:EngineMount.jpg|700px]]

====Hydraulic pump mount====
*¼” x 8” x 8” Plate

*[[Image:HydraulicPumpMount.jpg|400px]]

====Quick attach mounts====
*[2] 3/8” x 4” x 27” Plates
[[Image:QAMount.jpg]]
[[Image:QAPlates.jpg|400px]]

====Fuel tank====
*[2] ¼” x 4” x 8” Plates
*4” x 8” x 14 ½” Tube
*¼” x 2” x 24” Plate

* All welds assembling the tank must be quality welds, as they must not leak. Be careful not to “over weld” the tank to the mount.
* Clean the inside of the ¼” x 4” x 8” tube and the two ¼” x 4” x 8” plates – anything left on these surfaces will end up in the gasoline and could clog the engine when started. Tack and weld the plates on each end of the tube, taking care to orient the top plate with the filler hole as shown in the diagram below.
*Weld the 1/4” tank flange to the smaller hole.

[[Image:FuelTankMount.jpg|600px]]
[[Image:FuelTankMount2.jpg|400px]]

====Oil Cooler Mount====
*[2] ¼” x 2” x 24” Plates
*[2] ¼” x 2” x 22” Plates
*[2] ¼” x 2” x 1” Plates
[[Image:OilCoolerMount.jpg|400px]]

====Key Switches and Choke====
*[3] 1/8” x 2” x 2” x 2” Angle
[[Image:KeySwitches.jpg|400px]]

====Electrical cables====
*Note: The connectors can be purchased from an auto parts store – be aware that they usually require a crimper to attach to the cables. Alternatively, 3/8” copper tubing can be used in 1 ½” long pieces instead. Strip 1 ½” insulation from the cable, fully insert fully into 1 ½” copper tube, flatten end with a hammer and drill hole.
[[Image:ElectricalCables.jpg]]
*[2] 11” 1 gauge
*8 ½” 1 gauge
[[Image:ElectricalCables2.jpg]]

====Battery Mount====
*[2] ¼” x 2” x 2” x 4 3/4” Angle
*[2] ¼” x 2” x 5/8” Plate
[[Image:BatteryMount.jpg|400px]]

====Hydraulic reservoir====
*[2] ¼” x 6” x 12”
*6” x 12” x 27 ½” Tube
*2” x 2 ¼” x 1/8” Tube
* All welds assembling the reservoir must be quality welds that do not leak. Be careful not to “over weld” the reservoir.
* Clean the inside of the tube and the two end plates – anything on these surfaces will end up in the hydraulic oil and could damage the pump or cylinders.
* Tack and weld the 6” x 12” plates to both ends of the 6” x 12” tube. Pay attention to the orientation of the plate with the filler hole and the side of the tube with other holes – see the diagram below.

[[Image:HydraulicReservoir.jpg]]

* Tack and weld the strainer extension tube to the tank, centered around the strainer hole.
* Insert the strainer into the flange and insert it into the strainer extension tube – verify that it slides without binding or bottoming and that the flange is flush with the end of the tube. Remove the strainer from the flange, then tack and weld the flange to the tank.
CAUTION: Keep the strainer away from the welding, as its thin wires burn easily.
* Suction strainer, weld-in flange, 2” x 2 ¼” x 1/8” tube:

[[Image:HydraulicReservoir2.jpg]]

=Assembly=
Power Cube assembly requires all the parts listed in the Bill Of Materials to be available and prepared as detailed in the “Fabrication” section (above). Assembly requires a welder (electric or torch) capable of welding metal 3/8” thick.

A [[Power Cube Jig]] can be very useful during the welding stage.

===Frame===
====Top / Bottom Rectangles====
*Position two ¼” x 2” x 2” x 29” pieces angle iron on top of two 27” angle pieces as shown below. Check that all joints are square, then tack and weld joints.
[[Image:PowerCubeAssemblyFrame1.jpg]]
*With one welded rectangle on the bottom, position the 24” pieces outside corner joints as shown below. Check that the angles are square, then tack and weld.
[[Image:PowerCubeAssemblyFrame2.jpg]]
*Position the second rectangle as shown below, then tack and weld. Inspect all corners to verify secure welds.
[[Image:PowerCubeAssemblyFrame3.jpg]]

====Gas tank====

*Screw the 1/4" hose barb into the 1/4 NPT flange welded into the gas tank.
*Perform a “soap bubble” test on the tank. Securely cover the larger hole (use something like strong tape), pressurize the tank using the smaller hole and cover the tank surface with soapy water. Look closely for new bubbles, mark any leaks and re-weld securely. Repeat soap bubble test if re-welded.
*Tack and weld the gas tank mount (¼” x 2” x 24” plate) to the frame.
*Tack and weld the gas tank to the gas tank mount as shown below.
*[[Image:PowerCubeAssemblyGas2.jpg]]

====Hydraulic tank====

*Perform a “soap bubble” test on the tank by securely covering the larger hole (use something like strong tape), pressurizing the tank using the smaller hole and cover the tank surface with soapy water. Mark any leaks and re-weld securely. Repeat soap bubble test if re-welded.
*Weld it to the frame as shown with 4 1” welds. The tank is ¼” and it can be easily damaged by over-welding. Spacers may be needed on the sides near the top to keep everything snug.

====Engine Mounts and Hydraulic Motor Mount====
*Position the ¼” x 2” x 2” x 29” angle 12 ½” from the hydraulic tank (see diagram below). Tack and weld it to the frame.
[[Image:PowerCubeAssemblyMounts1.jpg]]
*Place the ¼” x 8” x 8” plate on the angle iron and secure with two bolts.
*Place the ¼” x 2” x 2” x 8” angle on top of the ¼” x 8” x 12” plate, align the bolt holes and secure with two bolts. Align this assembly with the ¼” x 8” x 8” plate in the prior step and position the angle against the hydraulic tank, 3” below the tank top as in the diagram below, then tack and weld to tank.*<image>
*Tack and weld the corner formed by the two 8” plates.
*Examine the engine shaft – it should be 3” long. If longer, cut the shaft to 3” long.
*Place the engine on its mounting plate and verify that the shaft extends through the hole.

====Battery mount====
*Weld the ¼” x 2” x 5/8” plates to the ends of the ¼” x 2” x 2” x 4 3/4” plates as shown below.
[[Image:PowerCubeAssemblyBatteryMount1.jpg]]
*Weld the two mounts to the angle iron and tank to form a rectangle for the battery as shown below.*<image>
*After the mount has cooled, lower the battery into the rectangle to verify it fits properly.

====Oil cooler and fan mounts====
*Position the two ¼” x 2” x 22” plates to the outside of the frame, adjust so the oil cooler mounting bolts match the holes in the plates and is positioned as in the diagram below. Tack and weld the mounts in to the frame. Verify that the oil cooler bolts match the holes in the mounts.
*Use the mounting holes in the fan shroud and the oil cooler width for positioning the mounting plates as shown in the diagram below. Position the four ¼” x 2” x 1” plates, then tack and weld. Position the two ¼” x 2” x 24” plates against the 1” plates, then tack and weld. Place the fan on the supports and mark the mounts with bolt hole positions. Place the bolt heads against the fan mounting plate and weld in place. Verify that the bolts match the holes in the fan. Inside the frame, adjust the fan position to to position fan shroud ¼” from oil cooler fins. Be careful with radiator as the delicate fins are easily bent and damaged.*

====Solenoid Mounting and Installation====
* Weld the solenoid mounting bolts to the hydraulic reservoir as shown below. Once cooled, secure the solenoid on the bolts with two nuts.
[[image:SolenoidMount.jpg]]

====Keyswitch Brackets and installation====
* Weld the 1/8” x 2” x2” x 2” angle brackets to the frame in the positions shown below. Note that the keyswitch brackets have larger holes than the choke bracket.
[[image:KeyswitchBracket.jpg]]
* Install the keyswitches in the brackets and wire as in the wiring illustration below.
[[image:KeyswitchWiring.jpg]]

====Choke Bracket and installation====
* Weld the 1/8” x 2” x2” x 2” angle bracket to the frame in the positions shown below.
* Secure the engine choke knob as shown in the illustration below
[[image:ChokeBracket.jpg]]

====Throttle Adjustment====
* Use a wire to permanently set the throttle adjustment to full throttle as shown below
[[image:ThrottleAdjustment.jpg]]

==See Also==
See also [[Power_Cube_Fabrication_Procedure]] for older model.

Work in progress by Tom Griffing - [[File:powercube.odt]]

==Previous Versions==

[[Power Cube/Manufacturing Instructions/Fabrication June 2011|Power Cube Fabrication June 2011]]

Power Cube Fabrication June 2011

2011-08-27T02:21:46Z

Ryan Lutz: moved Power Cube Fabrication June 2011 to Power Cube/Manufacturing Instructions/Fabrication June 2011

#REDIRECT [[Power Cube/Manufacturing Instructions/Fabrication June 2011]]

Power Cube/Manufacturing Instructions/Fabrication June 2011

2011-08-27T02:21:46Z

Ryan Lutz: moved Power Cube Fabrication June 2011 to Power Cube/Manufacturing Instructions/Fabrication June 2011

{{under construction}}

=Power Cube 4.0 Construction=

[[Image:PowerCubeFrameCAD.jpg|800px]]

Here's how to replicate our Powercube 4.0 design. Keep in mind that this the powercube is still at the prototype stages and designs are likely to change. There's also a few fittings /wires that are not reflected in this design. Aside from that, there should be enough information here to construct your very own OSE PowerCube 4.0!

<html>
<iframe width="425" height="349" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed//NEYMDD9T718" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe></html>
<html>
<iframe width="425" height="349" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed//703w_qBifXY" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
</html>

All designs, CAD drawings, media and documentation are mirrored on [http://openpario.mime.oregonstate.edu/projects/powercube/documents OpenPario].

== BOM ==

{|
| align="center" style="background:#f0f0f0;"|'''Name'''
| align="center" style="background:#f0f0f0;"|'''Quantity'''
| align="center" style="background:#f0f0f0;"|'''Dimensions'''
|-
| '''ENGINE ASSEMBLY'''||1||
|-
| Engine ||1||
|-
| Mounting Plate - Hydraulic Motor||1|| 8"x10"x1/4"
|-
| Connector Plate||1||8"x3.75"x1/4"
|-
| Mounting Angle||2||8"x(2"x1/4")
|-
| Engine Mount Plate||1||8"x23"x1/4"
|-
| Lovejoy Coupler||1||2.5"x2.25"
|-
| Hydraulic Motor||1||
|-
| Gas Tank||1||14"x6"x6"
|-
| '''FUEL FILTER ASSEMBLY'''||1||
|-
| Fuel Filter Fitting||1||
|-
| Fuel Filter||1||3.5"x5"
|-
| '''FRAME ASSEMBLY'''||1||24"x27.5"x30"
|-
| 24" Angle ||4||24"x(2"x1/4")
|-
| 27" Angle ||4||27"x(2"x1/4")
|-
| 29" Angle ||6||29"x(2"x1/4")
|-
| '''HYDRAULIC TANK ASSEMBLY'''||1||19"x29"x4"
|-
| Hydraulic Tank Plates||2||19"x29"x1/4"
|-
| Flat - Hydraulic Sides||2||19"x3.5"x1/4"
|-
| Flat - Hydraulic Bottom/Top||2||3.5"x28.5"x1/4"
|-
| Battery||1||5"x6"x7.5"
|-
| Hydraulic Mount||2||4.75"x3"
|}

==Total Metal to Purchase (summary)==

{|
| align="center" style="background:#f0f0f0;"|'''Type'''
| align="center" style="background:#f0f0f0;"|'''Width'''
| align="center" style="background:#f0f0f0;"|'''Thickness'''
| align="center" style="background:#f0f0f0;"|'''Total Length (rounded up)'''
|-
| Angle||2"||1/4"||400"
|-
| Plate||19"||1/4"||60"
|-
| Plate||8"||1/4"||40"
|-
| Plate||6"||1/4"||12"
|-
| Plate||3.5"||1/4"||100"
|-
| Tube||6"||1/4"||14"
|}

== Frame ==

The Power Cube 4.0 (as of this prototype at least) is not actually a strict cube. But more of a lopsided box.) The longest dimensions are on the side (left to right), while the shortest dimension is up/down. See below.

<html>
<iframe width="560" height="349" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed//1InlPCks6cE" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
</html>

[[Image:PowerCubeFramePhoto.jpg|600px]]

The frame is assembled in halves, and tack/welded in place. A completed frame should look like like this.

[[Image:PowerCubeFrameSketch.jpg|800px]]

Note the overlap order. Short angles (green) on the outside.

Assuming everything goes well on the welding, you should have your very own OSE PowerCube 4.0 Frame!

[[Image:PowerCubeFramePic.jpg|800px]]

==Assembly==
[[Image:PowerCubeFrameAssembly.jpg]]

The open frame of the power cube makes assembly a snap. Just slide pieces into place, tack and weld away. Later designs will likely feature a little less intensive welding, but for now, it is a solid construction technique.

===Mounting Assembly===
[[Image:MountingCAD.jpg]]

<html>
<iframe width="425" height="349" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed//LnCRry5oPpc" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
</html>

[[Image:HydraulicMountPlate4.jpg]]

[[Image:EngineMountPlate4.jpg]]

[[Image:PowerCubeEngine4.jpg]]

===Hydraulic Tank Assembly===

[[Image:HydraulicTankCAD.jpg]]

Lay out a plate, tack and weld the 3.5" wide pieces vertically in a box shape atop it. Then lay the top plate atop and weld it in place.

[[Image:HydraulicTankCADHoles.jpg]]

Torch out holes in the top plate in the corners. 2" holes with the center 2"x2" offset from the sides

<html>
<iframe width="425" height="349" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed//GT957CJQNNo" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
</html>

This would be a good time to break out the soap bubbles and test for leaks on the weld. Assuming the tank is tight, go ahead and move it on into the frame and weld it in place. Spacers may be needed on the sides near the top to keep everything snug.

===Final===

Mount the hydraulic fittings, hydraulic motor, gas tank, battery and wires. Finish it up to complete your very own OSE Powercube 4.0!

<html>
<iframe width="560" height="349" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed//V78idrurW5U" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
</html>

----

= Jig (optional) =
[[Image:JigSketchup.jpg|400px]]
[[Image:JigCubeSketchup.jpg|400px]]

The jig is an optional piece of fabrication equipment that can be very useful to have should you be creating several power cubes concurrently. The materials for the cube are assembled in the jig in half sections and tacked and welded in place.

'''Materials List'''

Total Length
14' Angle (2"x1/4")
7'2" Rebar (1/2")

'''Cut List'''
{|
| align="center" style="background:#f0f0f0;"|'''Type'''
| align="center" style="background:#f0f0f0;"|'''Length'''
| align="center" style="background:#f0f0f0;"|'''Dimensions'''
| align="center" style="background:#f0f0f0;"|'''Quantity'''
| align="center" style="background:#f0f0f0;"|'''Color'''
|-
| Angle||22"|| (2"x1/4")||2||(red)
|-
| Angle||26"||(2"x1/4")||2||(yellow)
|-
| Angle||29"||(2"x1/4")||2||(green)
|-
| Rebar ||30.5"||(1/2")||1||
|-
| Rebar || 27"||(1/2")||2
|}

[[Image:JigAssembly.jpg|800px]]

Assembly of the Jig is fairly straight forward. Tack and weld the pieces in place.

[[Image:JigInsideCorner.jpg|600px]]
[[Image:JigInsideCornerPhoto.jpg|600px]]

Be sure to note the overlapping order and the notch made at the bottom of the 1'10 1/4" piece (red). Torch holes in the corners below the frame as seen above. This allows room for the welding torch to get to the PowerCube while welding.

[[Image:Jig Outside Corner.jpg|400px]]

Also note that the corners are offset 3/4" (1/2" measured on the interior), to give room for the cube to sit snugly in the frame (and a convenient gap for welding the corners.)

Tack weld the two shorter rebar sections at roughly a 45 degree angle on the sides. Add a long rebar section to span the gap. Precision is not as important with these, they are more there for stability.

With any luck, you'll have your jig, ready to crank out Power Cubes with!

[[Image:Jig.jpg|400px]]
Jig Fully Assembled.

=Muffler=
==Muffler Mound CAD==

In QCad:

[[Image:mufflermount.jpg]]

Uploaded to Open Pario - [http://openpario.mime.oregonstate.edu/documents/1236]

CAM file from [[DXF to G-code Converter]]:

[[Image:mufflermountCAM.jpg]]

Uploaded to Open Pario - [http://openpario.mime.oregonstate.edu/documents/1236]

[[Category: Power Cube]]

Power Cube Fabrication Procedure

2011-08-27T02:21:15Z

Ryan Lutz: moved Power Cube Fabrication Procedure to Power Cube Fabrication June 2011: archive

#REDIRECT [[Power Cube Fabrication June 2011]]

Power Cube/Manufacturing Instructions/Fabrication June 2011

2011-08-27T02:21:15Z

Ryan Lutz: moved Power Cube Fabrication Procedure to Power Cube Fabrication June 2011: archive

CEB Press/Manufacturing Instructions/Controller Box/FeF Liberator Controller

2011-08-27T02:18:02Z

Ryan Lutz:

=Step 2=
Source the electronics. Here is a diagram of the controller box

[[Image:controllerbox.jpg]]

Here is the complete controller installed:

[[Image:controllerboxinstalled.jpg|400px]]

[[Image:cutlerhammerbox.jpg|thumb|Electronics Box]]
[[Image:elctronicsbox.jpg|thumb|Electronics Box]]

Gross Electronics:

*Electronics Box - local hardware store
*Extension Cord
**Or house wiring with [http://www.harborfreight.com/125-volt-15-amp-female-plug-connector-93687.html Female Plug] and [http://www.harborfreight.com/125-volt-15-amp-male-plug-93686.html Male Plug].
*2 alligator clips for battery connection - auto parts store
*House wiring box (blue box in picture above below the Arduino Shield - hardware store
*Fuse holder - car parts store
*12v quick connect plugs - 5 pairs - for quick-coupling to solenoids out of controller box - car parts store
*Stranded 5A wire for solenoid connections
*Spade terminals (10) for connection to solenoid terminals
*Underground phone cable - makes very tough connectors for sensors
*Potting compound
*PVC pipe - with 1 end capped
*Stranded Cat 5 wire for sensor connections
*[5] Supermagnets -

Microelectronics:

*[2] Hall Effect Sensors - Sparkfun
*[1] Arduino shield kit - Makerbot
*[1] Arduino - Makerbot
*[2] RepRap PWM Driver Boards

Components for PWM Driver Boards

*[1] '''Replacement MOSFETS''' -
*[]

=Step 3=

Shopping list for items which are shipped:

*<span style="color:green">[1] Arduino breakout shield - [http://store.makerbot.com/arduino-breakout-shield-v1-4-kit.html $25], Makerbot
[[Image:Breakoutparts.jpg|thumb|Arduino breakout shield components. Solder green parts (left in picture) last, after the black pieces (bottom in picture).]]
**Assembly instructions - [http://www.reprap.org/wiki/Arduino_Breakout_1_4]
*<span style="color:green">[1] Arduino (Duemilanove) - [http://store.makerbot.com/arduino.html $30], Makerbot
*<span style="color:green">[2] Solenoid drivers -[http://store.makerbot.com/pwm-driver-v1-1-kit.html $13 ea.], Makerbot
**Assembly instructions - [http://www.reprap.org/wiki/PWM_Driver_1_1].
**total cost with shipping - $88.25
*<span style="color:green">[4] MOSFET replacements [http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?13,41238,41255,quote=1 (see discussion)] for solenoid drivers, VNP35N07-E - [http://www.futureelectronics.com/en/technologies/semiconductors/analog/drivers/mosfet-igbt-drivers/Pages/3890498-VNP35N07-E.aspx $3.34], Future Electronics (if not available, search at Octopart) (grate shaker is automated, no sensors needed for it)
**Notes: The cheaper version recommended by Nophead from RepRap was this [http://octopart.com/partsearch/#search/requestData&q=VNP14NV04-E]. See [http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?13,41238,41255,quote=1 discussion].
**Total $25.70 (for 5)
*<span style="color:green">[2] Hall Effect sensors - [http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=9312 $0.95 ea], Sparkfun
**Total $9.16 (for 5)
*<span style="color:green">[4] 3/8" V-groove bearings - [http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/V-Groove-Bearings/Kit8405 $7.77 ea], VXB
**Total $42.47
*<span style="color:green">[6] Supermagnets - [http://www.gaussboys.com/ndfeb-magnets/D1203E-N42.html $0.48], Gaussboys
**Total $11.11 (for 12)

Grand total for electronics, magnets, and bearings - $176.69

*<span style="color:green">[1] Potting Compound - [http://cgi.ebay.com/EPOXY-RESIN-CIRCUIT-BOARD-POTTING-COMPOUND-CASTING-48OZ-/310186942108?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4838951e9c $22 for 48 oz], Polymer Composites
*Molex connector for powering solenoid drivers - [http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102783]
*[1] Fuse holder - [http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102783]

=Step 4=
Put together control box and test sensors

*Assemble entire Control Box
**Blue spacer box - Arduino attached on top with 2 small screws. Slightly slanted attachment to make screw holes fit on blue spacer box
**Terminal in electrical outlet box cut in half on metal cutoff saw to create + and - terminals
**Plastic mount on bottom of electrical box was shaved to allow 2 solenoid drivers to fit

*Test Arduino on laptop - for example by [http://www.arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/Blink blinking Channel 13 output on Duemilanove].

*Test sensors by passing magnets over them. See this sample code.
**[http://www.sparkfun.com/datasheets/Components/General/Hall-US1881EUA.pdf Data Sheet]
**Supply voltage is 5V from the Arduino breakout shield
**The pins are +,-, OUT reading from top (printed / smaller face)
**The output is "Open Drain" - this means you need a "pull up" resistor on the output (10K connected to +)
**This model is "latching" which means it turns on from one pole, and off by the other, remembering its state in the meantime.

=Step 5=

*Test solenoid valves by attaching power to battery and running this sample code for 2 solenoid channels.
**Note we can reduce 3 solenoid channels to 2 by running both the shaker motor and the drawer cylinder from the same channel - the shaker is activated at every stroke of the drawer, as there is ample hydraulic fluid flow available in that part of the overall CEB operation cycle.

=Step 6=

Build sensor and magnet mounts, attach to the machine

=Step 7=

Mount control box and solenoid valve on the machine

=Step 8=

Test the entire machine
*Test motion of main cylinder with this code
*Test motion of soil drawer cylinder with this code.
*Test motion of both cylinders, and machine is ready to run.

[[Category:CEB Press Fabrication]]

Template:Category=CEB press

2011-08-27T02:17:25Z

Ryan Lutz: Blanked the page

CEB Control Source Code

2011-08-27T02:14:54Z

Ryan Lutz: moved CEB Control Source Code to CEB Press/Manufacturing Instructions/Controller Box/Source Code

#REDIRECT [[CEB Press/Manufacturing Instructions/Controller Box/Source Code]]

CEB Press/Manufacturing Instructions/Controller Box/Source Code

2011-08-27T02:14:54Z

Ryan Lutz: moved CEB Control Source Code to CEB Press/Manufacturing Instructions/Controller Box/Source Code

{{Category=CEB press}}

* [[/v1.0]]
* [[/v1.01]]
* [[/v1.01 Annotated]]
* [[/v5.15.10]]

== Code has been moved to GitHub: https://github.com/OSE/ceb-controller ==

==2 Sensor Control Code==

The code as of 4.22.10 is shown below. This code operates with two position-sensor-magnets, where the concept was to avoid using 3 magnets for simplicity. This code works by calibrating timing between the initial and mid position of a given sensor, such that the completion of the stroke is attained by timing. It turns out in practice that at high machine speed, over 15 gpm, the timing is not robust and errors on the order of up to 1/2" in positioning may occur sporadically. Because of this reason, the code was updated to 3 position-sensor-magnets for each cylinder, such that timing is avoided.

==Code - Liberator Beta v2.0==
//Notes: In every WHILE loop, shut off solenoids explicitly after
//escaping from the loop. Orientation is defined by machine user
//facing the control panel. 2 magnets (sensor actuators) are used
//for main cylinder, 4 magnets for soil drawer, and 2 magnets are
//are used for soil grate shaker. Copyright April 2010, Creative
//Commons CC-BY-SA-compatible OSE License, by Marcin Jakubowski,
//Ph.D., for OSE. This code and other documentation is available
//at the Open+Pario project management site under the CEB Project,
//under Documents - Liberator Beta 2.0 Control Code,
//http://openpario.net/projects/OSE?

int val;
int val2;
unsigned long startcounter;
unsigned long counter;
unsigned long startcounter2;
unsigned long counter2;

//0. Initialization.

void setup(){
Serial.begin(9600);
pinMode(19,INPUT);//Digital 19 is Analog 5.
pinMode(18,INPUT);//Digital 18 is Analog 4.
pinMode(3,OUTPUT);//Pins 3 and 5 are up and down motion,
pinMode(6,OUTPUT);//respectively.
pinMode(9,OUTPUT);//Pins 9 and 10 are right and left.
pinMode(10,OUTPUT);
counter=0;
counter2=0;
val=analogRead(5);//Read the sensor.\
val2=analogRead(4);
Serial.println("Main cylinder state:");
Serial.println(val);
Serial.println("Drawer cylinder state:");
Serial.println(val2);

//1. Move big cylinder down all way to identify bottom point (+).

while (val<500){
digitalWrite(3, LOW);//Move main cylinder down.
digitalWrite(6, HIGH);//Control solenoids in pairs to keep track.
val=analogRead(5);
Serial.println("moving down");
Serial.println(val);
// delay(500);
}
digitalWrite(3, LOW);//Turn solenoids off.
digitalWrite(6, LOW);

Serial.println("Waiting for approval...");
// delay(4000);

//2. Move drawer left - all way to brick ejection position.

val2=analogRead(4);
Serial.println("Drawer State reading:");
Serial.println(val2);
// Serial.println("Waiting 5 seconds for next step...");
// delay(5000);

while(val2 < 500){
digitalWrite(9, LOW);//Move left.
digitalWrite(10, HIGH);//Solenoids are controlled in pairs.
val2=analogRead(4);
Serial.println("Moving left");
Serial.println(val2);
//Need to keep reading state of sensor.
};//stop upon reaching left (magnet at LEFT induces + state)

digitalWrite(9, LOW);
digitalWrite(10, LOW);
val2=analogRead(4);
Serial.println("Finished left. Drawer state:");
Serial.println(val2);
// Serial.println("WAITING FOR APPROVAL...");
// delay(4000);

//3. Calibrate main cylinder/eject.

val=analogRead(5);
startcounter=millis();

while(val > 500){
digitalWrite(3, HIGH);//Start upward motion.
digitalWrite(6, LOW);
Serial.println("Time during motion (ms):");
Serial.println(millis()-startcounter);
val=analogRead(5);

};
digitalWrite(3, LOW);//stop motion
digitalWrite(6, LOW);
counter=millis()-startcounter;
Serial.println("Time after leaving loop:");
Serial.println(counter);
val=analogRead(5);
Serial.println("Finished calibrations. Main cylinder state:");
Serial.println(val);
Serial.println("Waiting for approval.");
// delay(40000);

//4. Calibrate drawer
val=analogRead(4);
startcounter2=millis();

while(val2 > 500){
digitalWrite(9, HIGH);//Start upward motion.
digitalWrite(10, LOW);
Serial.println("Time during motion (ms):");
Serial.println(millis()-startcounter2);
val2=analogRead(4);

};
// digitalWrite(9, LOW);//stop motion
// digitalWrite(10, LOW);
counter2=millis()-startcounter2;
Serial.println("Time after leaving loop:");
Serial.println(counter2);
val=analogRead(4);
Serial.println("Finished calibration 2. Drawer cylinder state:");
Serial.println(val2);

//5. Continue moving for the calibrated duration
// digitalWrite(9, HIGH);
// digitalWrite(10, LOW);
delay(counter2);
digitalWrite(9, LOW);
digitalWrite(10, LOW);
Serial.println("Moved into soil loading position.");

}
//**************************** END OF INITIALIZATION

void loop(){

//8. Lower main cylinder.
val=analogRead(5);
Serial.println("Main cylinder state:");
Serial.println(val);
while(val < 500){;//Sensor is low at start.
digitalWrite(3, LOW);//Move main cylinder down.
digitalWrite(6, HIGH);//Control solenoids in pairs to keep track.
val=analogRead(5);
Serial.println("moving down");
Serial.println(val);
};//stop upon reaching bottom (magnet at bottom induces high state)
digitalWrite(3,LOW);
digitalWrite(6,LOW);

//9. Close compression chamber. Needs timing.

digitalWrite(9, LOW);//Move left.
digitalWrite(10, HIGH);//Solenoids are controlled in pairs.
Serial.println("Moving left");
delay(counter2*.84);//.75 is the exact factor

digitalWrite(9, LOW);//Stopping by timing only.
digitalWrite(10, LOW);

Serial.println("Finished left. Drawer state:");
Serial.println(val2);

//10. Begin pressing cycle with main cylinder, and then release
// pressure by moving 1/2 sec down.
digitalWrite(3, HIGH);// Start cycle, and time motion.
digitalWrite(6, LOW);// Start from bottom cylinder position.
delay (counter/2);//Go up half way. Time counted in milliseconds.
Serial.println("PRESSING...UP TO TIME OF (ms):");
Serial.println(counter/2);
digitalWrite(3, LOW);// Stop motion.
digitalWrite(6, LOW);
val=analogRead(5);
Serial.println("Main cylinder State:");
Serial.println(val);

//****************************************************** RELEASE CYCLE
digitalWrite(3, LOW);//Release, by time.
digitalWrite(6, HIGH);//
delay (counter/100);
Serial.println("Releasing...");
digitalWrite(3, LOW);// Stop motion.
digitalWrite(6, LOW);
val=analogRead(5);
Serial.println("State:");
Serial.println(val);

//11. Open compression chamber by moving drawer left.

val2=analogRead(4);
Serial.println("Drawer State reading:");
Serial.println(val2);
// Serial.println("Waiting 5 seconds for next step...");
// delay(5000);

while(val2 < 500){
digitalWrite(9, LOW);//Move left.
digitalWrite(10, HIGH);//Solenoids are controlled in pairs.
val2=analogRead(4);
Serial.println("Moving left");
Serial.println(val2);
//Need to keep reading state of sensor.
};//stop upon reaching left (magnet at LEFT induces + state)

digitalWrite(9, LOW);
digitalWrite(10, LOW);
val2=analogRead(4);
Serial.println("Finished left. Drawer state:");
Serial.println(val2);

//12. Push brick up.

val=analogRead(5);
while (val > 500){;//Complete motion up to sensor.
digitalWrite(3, HIGH);//Complete up motion.
digitalWrite(6, LOW);
val=analogRead(5);
Serial.println("Pushing brick up...");
Serial.println("Main cylinder State:");
Serial.println(val);
}

digitalWrite(3, LOW);
digitalWrite(6, LOW);

//13. Eject brick from machine by moving drawer to the right.

val=analogRead(4);
startcounter2=millis();

while(val2 > 500){
digitalWrite(9, HIGH);//Start upward motion.
digitalWrite(10, LOW);
Serial.println("Time during motion (ms):");
Serial.println(millis()-startcounter2);
val2=analogRead(4);

};
// digitalWrite(9, LOW);//stop motion
// digitalWrite(10, LOW);
counter2=millis()-startcounter2;
Serial.println("Time after leaving loop:");
Serial.println(counter2);
val=analogRead(4);
Serial.println("Finished calibration 2. Drawer cylinder state:");
Serial.println(val2);

//14. Continue moving for the calibrated duration (into loading pos.)
// digitalWrite(9, HIGH);
// digitalWrite(10, LOW);
delay(counter2);
digitalWrite(9, LOW);
digitalWrite(10, LOW);
Serial.println("Moved into soil loading position.");
};

==Three Sensor Control Code==
===Testing===

====Secondary Cylinder====
This code is for the secondary (drawer) cylinder. This code may be used for calibration or troubleshooting purposes. This code zeroes the drawer cylinder by moving it to the far left (direction is determined by user facing the machine control panel). This code cycles between the 3 positions. You may use this code for determining positioning replicability at various speeds of the machine.

Correct zeroing occurs in most cases. If the machine was turned off in the far-right-position, this code does not work properly. This is an artifact of the control mechanism, and cannot be avoided easily. The user needs to reset the machine if this happens. To determine if the machine is zeroed properly, observe the position of the drawer during the initial 5 second rest (after zeroing occurred). If the machine did not reset properly, reset it manually via the reset button on the Arduino shield or by cycling the power to the controller.

Beginning of code follows:
-----

//Notes: In every WHILE loop, shut off solenoids explicitly after
//escaping from the loop. Orientation is defined by machine user
//facing the control panel. 3 magnets (sensor actuators) are used
//for main cylinder, 3 magnets for soil drawer, and 2 magnets are
//are used for soil grate shaker. Copyright April 2010, Creative
//Commons CC-BY-SA-compatible Open Source Ecology (OSE) License,
//by Marcin Jakubowski, Ph.D., for OSE. This code and other
//documentation is available at the Open+Pario project management
//site under the CEB Project, under Documents - Liberator Beta 2.0
//Control Code, http://openpario.net/projects/OSE

int val;
int val2;
int val3;

unsigned long startcounter;
unsigned long counter;
unsigned long startcounter2;
unsigned long counter2;

//0. Initialization.

void setup(){
Serial.begin(9600);
pinMode(19,INPUT);//Digital 19 is Analog 5.
pinMode(18,INPUT);//Digital 18 is Analog 4.
pinMode(17,INPUT);//Digital 17 is Analog 3.
pinMode(3,OUTPUT);//Pins 3 and 6 are up and down motion,
pinMode(6,OUTPUT);//respectively.
pinMode(9,OUTPUT);//Pins 9 and 10 are right and left,
pinMode(10,OUTPUT);//respectively.
pinMode(11,OUTPUT);//Hopper shaker motor.
counter=0;
counter2=0;
val=analogRead(5);//Read the sensor.\
val2=analogRead(4);
Serial.println("Main cylinder state:");
Serial.println(val);
Serial.println("Drawer cylinder state:");
Serial.println(val2);

//1. Move sec cylinder Left 1/2 sec
digitalWrite(10,HIGH);
delay(400);
digitalWrite(10,LOW);
//2. If +, then stop, else keep moving left until +.
while (analogRead(4) < 500){
digitalWrite(10, HIGH);
}
digitalWrite(10, LOW);
//3. Wait 6 seconds. If stopped and not zeroed, turn controller on and off.
delay(6000);
}
//**************************** END OF INITIALIZATION

void loop(){

//L1. Move right to -
while(analogRead(4) > 500){
digitalWrite(9, HIGH);//Move right.
}
//L2. Continue moving right to +. Wait a second.
while(analogRead(4) < 500){
}
digitalWrite(9, LOW);
delay(1000);
//L3. Move left till -. Wait a second.
digitalWrite(10, HIGH);
while (analogRead(4) >500){
}
digitalWrite(10, LOW);
delay(1000);
//L4. Move left till +. Wait a second.
digitalWrite(10, HIGH);
while (analogRead(4) < 500){
}
digitalWrite(10, LOW);
delay(1000);

}//final loop closure.

====Main Cylinder====

Note: Position-sensor-magnets induce high and low latch-states in the Hall effect sensor. The magnet positions are ordered: (1), high at the bottom, (2), low in the middle, and (3), high at top. The states are read by the Arduino controller analog inputs. The bottom, mid, and top positions are determined by the magnet locations.

The testing code for the main cylinder actives the following procedure:
#Moves main cylinder down for 1/2 second, and keeps moving down to the bottom if it's not at the bottom after the 1/2 second.
#Waits 6 seconds for user-determination of correct zeroing procedure. User cycles power to controller if not zeroed properly at this time.
#Calibrates the timing of the main cylinder for the purpose of determining the duration of the ''release stroke''. To do this, code moves the main cylinder all the way to the top, and then measures the time to return all the way to the bottom. This calibration depends on the hydraulic fluid flow, hence it is needed for efficient operation under different power source conditions.
#Repetitive cycling begins:
##Move up to middle, stop.
##Release pressure. \
##Move up to top, stop.
##Move down to middle, stop.
##Move down to bottom, stop.

==Control Code with Simultaneous Cylinder Motion==

Code annotation for testv3 code - full code, including simultaneous cylinder motion, for the Liberator Beta v2.0 open source CEB press.

===Definitions===

#Initial or zero position for main cylinder- bottom of stroke.
#Initial or zero position for main cylinder - leftmost position
#Left and right - as observed with user facing the control box.
#Bottom and top - with respect to the ground.
#Terminal position - Top for main cylinder, rightmost for secondary cylinder.
#C2 - secondary cylinder.
#C1 - main cylinder.

===Initialization===

Move main and secondary cylinder down 1/2 second. Allows one to assess correct zeroing more quickly (in case both cylinders are in 'initialization failure' position, defined as the position of each respective cylinder in which initialization fails.

Zero the cylinders (allows you to determine position, otherwise one has to compensate with further motion for not knowing this information.

Eject soil from chamber with main cylinder, push soil out of way with secondary cylinder. This avoids potential problems asssociated with unbalanced stress on press foot.

The result of initialization is that the secondary cylinder is in the initial position, and main cylinder is the terminal position.

===Loop===

In order to effect simultaneous cylinder motion, we divide the motion into segments as a general strategy. Each segment consists of the span between two position-sensor-magnets, with the beginning at one sensor and the end at the next sensor. There are 3 magnets for each cylinder, ordered as +, -, and +, where the + or - corresponds to the state that the magnet induces in the sensor circuit. This means that the initial and terminal positions are defined as +, and the middle position is defined as -.

The simultaneous cylinder motion is framed by the motion of the secondary cylinder. In practical terms, this means that it is determined within a ''while loop'' for the secondary cylinder. Within this ''while loop'', the code determines the location of the main cylinder.

The motion is continuous through 2 magnets for both the main and secondary cylinders. To determine the terminal position, the cylinders go through a toggle at the midpoint of motion. This toggle is set high (toggle = 1), so that: ''the toggle combined with the cylinder detector reaching + determines the terminal stroke position''.

===Summary===

The code consists essentially of these steps:

INITIALIZATION

#Move main and secondary cylinder down 1/2 second.
#Zero secondary and main cylinders.
#Eject soil from chamber with main cylinder.
#With secondary cylinder - push soil out of way, stop in closed compression chamber position, and re-initialize.
#Calibrate main cylinder (move from top to bottom and obtain time).
#Move main cylinder to terminal position.

At this point, secondary cylinder is in initial position and main cylinder is in terminal position.

LOOP

#Move C1 right.
#Wait 0.2 seconds
#Move C2 down. This marks the beginning of simultaneous motion.
#Detect C2. Set toggle2 to 0.
#While C2 is high (motion from left to middle):
#Detect C1 and C2.
#If C1 goes low, then toggle1=1
#If C1 is toggled and goes high, stop C1.
#While C2 is low (motion from middle to right):
#Detect C1 and C2.
#If C1 goes low, then toggle1=1
#If C1 is toggled and goes high, stop C1.
#Stop C2
#C1 may not be toggled (may still be moving).
#Use a for loop that escapes upon toggle and terminal position:
#for i=1 to 2
#read state of C1
#if state is low then toggle and set i to 1
#if it's toggled and state is high then i=2
(escapes loop)
#Stop C1. This ends the soil loading cycle
#Wait 0.2 seconds.
#Close drawer by moving left.
#Press.
#Release.
#Open drawer.
#Eject. This completes cycle.

===Code===

See [[ceb control code 5.15.10]]

CEB Press/Manufacturing Instructions/Controller Box/Source Code

2011-08-27T02:14:15Z

Ryan Lutz:

CEB Press/Manufacturing Instructions/Controller Box

2011-08-27T02:11:37Z

Ryan Lutz:

{{Template:CEB Press Manufacturing Instructions Navbox}}
[[Image:ceb-controller.jpg|right]]

== Tools Required ==

*Wire Cutters
*Soldering Iron Kit
*PC
*Hand Drill
*Wire Crimper Cutter
==Materials Required ==
[[Image:Cutlerhammerbox.jpg|thumb]]
[[Image:Breakoutparts.jpg|thumb|Breakout Shield & Arduino]]
[[Image:Correctedboard.jpg|thumb|PWM Driver]]

*Outdoor Main Lug Box - 125Amp, 2Spaces, 4Circuits, 1Phase, 3Wire, 120/240VAC
*Extension Cord
*Alligator clips (2)
*Home wiring box [http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Navigation?storeId=10051&N=+90001+544955&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&cm_sp=d27-_-electrical-_-category_page-_-Electrical-_-electrical_essentials-_-plugs_outlets_cords-_-shop_now]
*Fuse holder - 30Amp Inline Mini Blade-Type [http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102783 Buy]
*12v quick connect plugs (5 pairs)
*Stranded 5A wire ?
*Spade terminals (10)
*Underground phone cable
*Potting compound [http://cgi.ebay.com/EPOXY-RESIN-CIRCUIT-BOARD-POTTING-COMPOUND-CASTING-48OZ-/310186942108?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4838951e9c Buy]
*PVC pipe
*PVC pipe cap
*Stranded Cat 5 cable
*Supermagnets (6) - N42 [http://www.gaussboys.com/ndfeb-magnets/D1203E-N42.html Buy]
*Arduino (Duemilanove) [http://www.amazon.com/Arduino-Duemilanove/dp/B001VK18HC Buy]
*MOSFET replacements (5) - Single 35A 70V 0.028Ω TO-220-3 [http://www.futureelectronics.com/en/technologies/semiconductors/analog/drivers/mosfet-igbt-drivers/Pages/3890498-VNP35N07-E.aspx Buy] [http://octopart.com/partsearch/#search/requestData&q=VNP14NV04-E Buy]
*Hall Effect sensors (2) - US1881 TO-92 [http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=9312 Buy]
*3/8" V-groove bearings (4) [http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/V-Groove-Bearings/Kit8405 Buy]
*Molex connector [http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812198025&cm_re=molex-_-12-198-025-_-Product Buy] [http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10245&cs_id=1024501&p_id=1313&seq=1&format=1#largeimage Buy] [http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10245&cs_id=1024501&p_id=1316&seq=1&format=2 Buy]

'''Sub-project Materials'''

*Arduino breakout shield [http://store.makerbot.com/arduino-breakout-shield-v1-4-kit.html Buy Parts] [http://www.reprap.org/wiki/Arduino_Breakout_1_4 Assembly instructions]

*PWM Solenoid drivers (2) [http://store.makerbot.com/pwm-driver-v1-1-kit.html Buy Parts] [http://www.reprap.org/wiki/PWM_Driver_1_1 Assembly instructions]

== Diagrams ==
[[Image:controllerbox.jpg|400px]]

*need a diagram of the wires
*[https://docs.google.com/drawings/edit?id=1Gyv9hAaBZEX9v2RqlvqABIL2TwA2QJOKixl63OoM93o&hl=en google doc drawing of wire diagram (working on it)]

<html>
<img src="https://docs.google.com/drawings/pub?id=1Gyv9hAaBZEX9v2RqlvqABIL2TwA2QJOKixl63OoM93o&w=480&h=360">
</html>

<html><embed src="http://blip.tv/play/AYHmjUcA" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" width="400" height="400" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true"></embed></html>

==Wiring Instructions==

The CEB controller involves the following wiring:
*Battery power cord/Fuse/Switch
*Arduino/Breakout Board/Solenoid Driver sandwich
*Circuit board power – solenoid driver and Arduino power connections
*Sensor connections
*Solenoid driver power outputs to solenoids
*Solenoid connections
Note: Reversing the polarity on the power input to the solenoid driver has been shown to fry the solenoid driver board. Other damage may also occur by incorrect connection.

===Battery Power===
[[Image:batteryconnection.jpg|thumb|Fig. 1. Battery connection.]]
[[Image:cebcontroller.jpg|thumb|Fig. 2. CEB controller v2.0 (2011).]]
[[Image:solenoidvalve.jpg|thumb|Fig. 3. Hydraulic solenoid valve.]]
[[Image:alligatorclips.jpg|thumb|Fig. 4. Alligator clips.]]
[[Image:safetydisconnect.jpg|thumb|Fig. 5. Safety disconnect.]]
[[Image:powerswitch.jpg|thumb|Fig. 6. Main power switch.]]
[[Image:terminalstrip.jpg|thumb|Fig. 7. Terminal strip inside the controller box.]]
[[Image:safetyfuse.jpg|thumb|Fig. 8. 10 amp safety fuse.]]
[[Image:arduinolayer.jpg|thumb|Fig. 9. Arduino on bottom.]]
[[Image:breakoutboard.jpg|thumb|Fig. 10. Breakout board.]]
[[Image:driverboard.jpg|thumb|Fig. 11. Solenoid driver board.]]
[[Image:pinlineup.jpg|thumb|Fig. 12. Lining up of pins.]]
[[Image:driverschematic.png|thumb|Fig. 13. Circuit schematic of driver board.]]
[[Image:Drivertraces.png|thumb|Fig. 13b. Traces schematic of driver board.]]
[[Image:testcode.jpg|thumb|Fig. 14.Controller testing GUI.]]

The [[Power Cube]] battery, or any other 12V source (Fig. 1), provides electrical power to drive the CEB controller (Fig. 2) and hydraulic solenoid valves (Fig. 3). Alligator clips (Fig. 4) are used to make the connection. The white lead in the power cord is the positive terminal, and the black lead is the negative terminal. This polarity matters.

The battery power cable connects to the controller via a safety disconnect (video in last year's CEB documentation) - which are 2 plugs plugged into each other (Fig. 5). Once battery power is connected, the main power switch (Fig. 6) turns on the power to the controller, where the controller feeds power to the solenoids. Inside the controller, a terminal strip (Fig. 7) is used for the ground (black) and positive connections to the circuit boards. A fuse (Fig. 8) should be located between the main power switch and the positive terminal.

===Circuit Boards===

Three circuit boards are used in the controller. They are plugged one on top of the next in a sandwich configuration. The spacer on the bottom is a standard household electrical outlet, which insulates the circuit boards from the controller box.

The bottom board is the Arduino (Fig. 9). The Arduino Breakout Board (Fig. 10) sits on top of the Arduino. The circuit-milled Solenoid Driver Board (Fig. 11) sits on top of the Breakout Board. The pins on each of the 3 boards line up (Fig. 12).

The circuit schematic of the Solenoid Driver Board is shown in Fig. 13, and the Bill of Materials here - [[File:driverbom.odt]]. This is care of Blair Evans of the Detroit Fab Lab.

==Circuit Power==

The Arduino and the Solenoid driver must be powered by 12V from the battery. For the Arduino, the connection is made via the Breakout Board. 12V from the battery must be connected to Vin on the shield (bottom right of Shield in Fig.10), and ground must be connected as well. Use the terminals above the Vin.

Power must be connected directly to the solenoid driver board via the terminals in the upper left of Fig. 15. The + terminal is 12V, and the – terminal is the battery ground.

===Sensor Connections===

The sensor connections are color coded: blue is the sensor input, blue/white is ground, and orange is 5V.

When looking at the Hall Effect Senor chip (now encapsulated) from the front (front is the side with the writing), the left pin is 5V (orange), the middle pin is ground (blue/white), and the right pin is the sensor input (blue). The pull-up resistor (10k on the Detroit Fab Lab solenoid driver board, already included on the driver board) is connected between the 5V and sensor input terminals.

To connect the sensors, use the terminals on the breakout board to make the connections. '''Use the Analog 0 (A0) and Analog 1 (A1) pins on the breakout board to connect to the main cylinder and secondary cylinder sensor inputs, respectively.''' Note: the 3rd sensor (soil shaker) is optional, and it will not be used here. Connect the sensor 5V connections to the corresponding terminals on the breakout board, and connect the grounds to the corresponding breakout board terminals as well. The sensor connections should look like that shown in Fig. 16.

== Testing from Zero==

*Arduino Testing - Preparation
*Note: For this testing procedure, you will need a computer with Arduino software, Python and pyserial loaded.
# Solder 100 Ohm resistors to the negative (short) ends of three LEDs.
# Connect the Positive ends of the LEDs to Ports 11, 12 and 13 of the Breakout Shield
# Connect the resistor ends to GND port of the Breakout Shield
# Double-check the connections!
# Connect the Arduino to the Computer using a USB Cable
# Download [[Arduino Environment]]
# Open the Arduino Environment
##Double click on executable text file in Ubuntu
##Select the board that you are using (Duemilanove 328) under Tools / Board.
# Select the Appropriate Serial Connection under Tools / Serial Ports.
##Troubleshooting - if Tools / Serial Ports is blanked out, connect Arduino board
##Generally, the appropriate serial connection will be the number of the lowest unused USB port starting at 0.
# Download the <html><a href = "http://openpario.mime.oregonstate.edu/documents/1250">CEB_Testing_Program.pde</a></html>
# Open the CEB Testing program in last step in the Arduino program by going to File / Open...
##Note: if the above file is not in its own folder, Arduino Environment will create a folder in Ubuntu
# Load the CEB Testing Program into the Arduino using the Upload Button in File / Upload to I/O Board
# Download the Python-based <html><a href = "https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&pid=explorer&chrome=true&srcid=0B2ZOu2AF-TF5MTgzMjM1MjgtYzQwMS00ODQ5LTlkMTgtYjg3YmI1NzRkNmY0&hl=en_US">Arduino Testing Program</a></html>
# Open the Python-based <html><a href = "https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&pid=explorer&chrome=true&srcid=0B2ZOu2AF-TF5MTgzMjM1MjgtYzQwMS00ODQ5LTlkMTgtYjg3YmI1NzRkNmY0&hl=en_US">Arduino Testing Program</a></html>
##Run python code in Terminal - python CEB_Testing.py
##You may need to install python-imaging, python-imaging-tk, python-serial, arduino and avrdude in Linux to make it work
##Try this command in Debian-Based Linux Distros such as Ubuntu: sudo apt-get install python-imaging python-imaging-tk python-serial arduino avrdude
##You may need to install <html><a href = "http://arduino.cc/en/Main/Software">Arduino for Windows</a>, <a href = "http://www.pythonware.com/products/pil/">PIL</a> and <a href = "http://pypi.python.org/pypi/pyserial"> Pyserial</a> if you are using Windows.</html>
##If you are using a Mac, I have no idea what you'll have to do.
# Connect to the Arduino using the GUI button
#'''Arduino - Testing''' - Click the Blink Test Button to Check if the Arduino is working. LED 13 should blink on and off.
# Click the Sensor Test Button. The Arduino’s sensors should cause LEDs 11, 12 and 13 to blink on and off in the presence of the magnets.
# Click the MOSFET Testing Buttons. The green LEDs on the MOSFET should blink on and off accordingly.
#'''Solenoid Connections''' - Cut five 2’ pieces of 16-gauge black wire and five 2’ pieces of 16-gauge red wire.
# Strip ¼” off each of the five black and five red wires.
# Tin the ends of each of the wires.
# Attach black wires to each of the negative terminals of the MOSFET connectors on the Detroit Fab-Lab board.
# Attach red wires to each of the positive terminals of the MOSFET connectors on the Detroit Fab-Lab Board.
# Run the black and red wires through an available hole in the Electronics Box.(Should we use the left-side hole for this???)
# When all wires have been checked, tighten each of the cable clamps.
#'''Solenoid Testing''' - Remove the bridge connector between the Common Ports of each solenoid unit.
# Connect each of the five red-black solenoid wire pairs to terminals in the solenoids. Black wires should attach to the Common ports and Red Wires to the Solenoid a and Solenoid b Ports
# Double-check the connections!
# Test the Solenoids with the Python-based CEB Press Testing program.

===Notes===

Here are errors upon running the Python script and upon trying to upload the CEB Testing Program to the arduino:

[[Image:conttesterrors.jpg|500px]]

== Fabrication Steps ==

*Assemble entire Control Box
**Blue spacer box - Arduino attached on top with 2 small screws. Slightly slanted attachment to make screw holes fit on blue spacer box
**Terminal in electrical outlet box cut in half on metal cutoff saw to create + and - terminals
**Plastic mount on bottom of electrical box was shaved to allow 2 solenoid drivers to fit

===Sensor Fabrication and Attachment===

[[Image:sensorfab1.png|thumb|Step 1. Start with potting compound, 2 parts.]]
[[Image:sensorfab2.png|Step 2. Take one Hall Effect sensor.]]

Fabricate the Sensors

#Cut three 3’ sections of Underground Telephone Cable.
#Strip about 3” of the outer covering off each end of the three sections
#Strip about ¼” off the orange, blue and blue-white wires at each end of each section.
#Tin the ends of the all of the wires on all of the sections
#Splice, with Solder, about 6” of the inner strands of some Cat-5 Cable (E17) to the wires at one end of each of the sections of Underground Telephone Cable
#Thread shrink-wrap (E28) to the three wires on the other end of each of the three sections of Underground Telephone Cable.
#Solder a Hall Effect Sensor (E20) to one endof the ther sections (pins numbered from left to right)
##Pin 1: Orange
##Pin 2: Blue-White
##Pin 3: Blue
#Shrink the Shrink-Wrap around each of the solder joints
#Cut three 3” sections of PVC Pipe (E15).
#Place a section of Pipe around each of the three hall effect sensors and encase them in Potting Compound (E29) with the Pipe Caps (E16) in place.

Attach the Sensors

#Feed the CAT-5 ends of the sensor cables through either the power cable hole or the right side hole of the Electronics Box.
#Attach the '''orange ends''' of the sensor wires to '''GND terminals on the Breakout Shield'''.
#Attach the '''blue ends''' of the sensor wires to the '''5V terminals''' on the Breakout Shield.
#Attach the '''blue-white ends''' of the sensor wires to '''terminals A0, A1 and A'''2 on the Breakout Shield.

==Previous Testing Procedure==

*Test Arduino on laptop - for example by [http://www.arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/Blink blinking Channel 13 output on Duemilanove].

*Test sensors by passing magnets over them. See this sample code.
**[http://www.sparkfun.com/datasheets/Components/General/Hall-US1881EUA.pdf Data Sheet]
**Supply voltage is 5V from the Arduino breakout shield
**The pins are +,-, OUT reading from top (printed / smaller face)
**The output is "Open Drain" - this means you need a "pull up" resistor on the output (10K connected to +)
**This model is "latching" which means it turns on from one pole, and off by the other, remembering its state in the meantime.

Controller checklist (ie, So you don't burn your components, check these):

#Arduino powers on with USB cord? Check.
#Arduino works - ex. blink Channel 13 with an LED? Check. Atmega 328 Duemilanove - on Ubuntu 10.04.
#Controller main power switch light red when battery is connected and switch is turned on? Check.
#With Molex connectors disconnected, 12V appears at pins 1 and 2?
#With Molex connectors plugged into solenoid driver boards, main power switch turns the drivers on?
#Arduino powers on with battery supply after flipping main switch on?
#Solenoid drivers are turned on with main switch?
#Solenoids turn all of their MOSFETS as seen via indicator lights?
#Solenoids can cycle the solenoid valves?
C

*Test solenoid valves by attaching power to battery and running this sample code for 2 solenoid channels.
**Note we can reduce 3 solenoid channels to 2 by running both the shaker motor and the drawer cylinder from the same channel - the shaker is activated at every stroke of the drawer, as there is ample hydraulic fluid flow available in that part of the overall CEB operation cycle.

----

other pages with info that should end up on this page

==Previous Versions==

*[[CEB Press/Manufacturing Instructions/Controller Box/Automation Prototype II|CEB Press Automation Prototype II]]
*[[CEB Press/Manufacturing Instructions/Controller Box/Arduino Control of CEB Prototype 2|Arduino Control of CEB Prototype 2]]
*[[CEB Press/Manufacturing Instructions/Controller Box/FeF Liberator Controller|FeF Liberator Controller]]

[[Category: CEB Press]]
[[Category:CEB Press Fabrication]]

CEB Press/Manufacturing Instructions/Controller Box/FeF Liberator Controller

2011-08-27T02:08:55Z

Ryan Lutz:

{{Category=CEB press}}

=Step 2=
Source the electronics. Here is a diagram of the controller box

[[Image:controllerbox.jpg]]

Here is the complete controller installed:

[[Image:controllerboxinstalled.jpg|400px]]

[[Image:cutlerhammerbox.jpg|thumb|Electronics Box]]
[[Image:elctronicsbox.jpg|thumb|Electronics Box]]

Gross Electronics:

*Electronics Box - local hardware store
*Extension Cord
**Or house wiring with [http://www.harborfreight.com/125-volt-15-amp-female-plug-connector-93687.html Female Plug] and [http://www.harborfreight.com/125-volt-15-amp-male-plug-93686.html Male Plug].
*2 alligator clips for battery connection - auto parts store
*House wiring box (blue box in picture above below the Arduino Shield - hardware store
*Fuse holder - car parts store
*12v quick connect plugs - 5 pairs - for quick-coupling to solenoids out of controller box - car parts store
*Stranded 5A wire for solenoid connections
*Spade terminals (10) for connection to solenoid terminals
*Underground phone cable - makes very tough connectors for sensors
*Potting compound
*PVC pipe - with 1 end capped
*Stranded Cat 5 wire for sensor connections
*[5] Supermagnets -

Microelectronics:

*[2] Hall Effect Sensors - Sparkfun
*[1] Arduino shield kit - Makerbot
*[1] Arduino - Makerbot
*[2] RepRap PWM Driver Boards

Components for PWM Driver Boards

*[1] '''Replacement MOSFETS''' -
*[]

=Step 3=

Shopping list for items which are shipped:

*<span style="color:green">[1] Arduino breakout shield - [http://store.makerbot.com/arduino-breakout-shield-v1-4-kit.html $25], Makerbot
[[Image:Breakoutparts.jpg|thumb|Arduino breakout shield components. Solder green parts (left in picture) last, after the black pieces (bottom in picture).]]
**Assembly instructions - [http://www.reprap.org/wiki/Arduino_Breakout_1_4]
*<span style="color:green">[1] Arduino (Duemilanove) - [http://store.makerbot.com/arduino.html $30], Makerbot
*<span style="color:green">[2] Solenoid drivers -[http://store.makerbot.com/pwm-driver-v1-1-kit.html $13 ea.], Makerbot
**Assembly instructions - [http://www.reprap.org/wiki/PWM_Driver_1_1].
**total cost with shipping - $88.25
*<span style="color:green">[4] MOSFET replacements [http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?13,41238,41255,quote=1 (see discussion)] for solenoid drivers, VNP35N07-E - [http://www.futureelectronics.com/en/technologies/semiconductors/analog/drivers/mosfet-igbt-drivers/Pages/3890498-VNP35N07-E.aspx $3.34], Future Electronics (if not available, search at Octopart) (grate shaker is automated, no sensors needed for it)
**Notes: The cheaper version recommended by Nophead from RepRap was this [http://octopart.com/partsearch/#search/requestData&q=VNP14NV04-E]. See [http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?13,41238,41255,quote=1 discussion].
**Total $25.70 (for 5)
*<span style="color:green">[2] Hall Effect sensors - [http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=9312 $0.95 ea], Sparkfun
**Total $9.16 (for 5)
*<span style="color:green">[4] 3/8" V-groove bearings - [http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/V-Groove-Bearings/Kit8405 $7.77 ea], VXB
**Total $42.47
*<span style="color:green">[6] Supermagnets - [http://www.gaussboys.com/ndfeb-magnets/D1203E-N42.html $0.48], Gaussboys
**Total $11.11 (for 12)

Grand total for electronics, magnets, and bearings - $176.69

*<span style="color:green">[1] Potting Compound - [http://cgi.ebay.com/EPOXY-RESIN-CIRCUIT-BOARD-POTTING-COMPOUND-CASTING-48OZ-/310186942108?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4838951e9c $22 for 48 oz], Polymer Composites
*Molex connector for powering solenoid drivers - [http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102783]
*[1] Fuse holder - [http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102783]

=Step 4=
Put together control box and test sensors

*Assemble entire Control Box
**Blue spacer box - Arduino attached on top with 2 small screws. Slightly slanted attachment to make screw holes fit on blue spacer box
**Terminal in electrical outlet box cut in half on metal cutoff saw to create + and - terminals
**Plastic mount on bottom of electrical box was shaved to allow 2 solenoid drivers to fit

*Test Arduino on laptop - for example by [http://www.arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/Blink blinking Channel 13 output on Duemilanove].

*Test sensors by passing magnets over them. See this sample code.
**[http://www.sparkfun.com/datasheets/Components/General/Hall-US1881EUA.pdf Data Sheet]
**Supply voltage is 5V from the Arduino breakout shield
**The pins are +,-, OUT reading from top (printed / smaller face)
**The output is "Open Drain" - this means you need a "pull up" resistor on the output (10K connected to +)
**This model is "latching" which means it turns on from one pole, and off by the other, remembering its state in the meantime.

=Step 5=

*Test solenoid valves by attaching power to battery and running this sample code for 2 solenoid channels.
**Note we can reduce 3 solenoid channels to 2 by running both the shaker motor and the drawer cylinder from the same channel - the shaker is activated at every stroke of the drawer, as there is ample hydraulic fluid flow available in that part of the overall CEB operation cycle.

=Step 6=

Build sensor and magnet mounts, attach to the machine

=Step 7=

Mount control box and solenoid valve on the machine

=Step 8=

Test the entire machine
*Test motion of main cylinder with this code
*Test motion of soil drawer cylinder with this code.
*Test motion of both cylinders, and machine is ready to run.

[[Category:CEB Press Fabrication]]

FeF Liberator Fabrication

2011-08-27T02:08:37Z

Ryan Lutz: moved FeF Liberator Fabrication to CEB Press/Manufacturing Instructions/Controller Box/FeF Liberator Controller

#REDIRECT [[CEB Press/Manufacturing Instructions/Controller Box/FeF Liberator Controller]]

CEB Press/Manufacturing Instructions/Controller Box/FeF Liberator Controller

2011-08-27T02:08:37Z

Ryan Lutz: moved FeF Liberator Fabrication to CEB Press/Manufacturing Instructions/Controller Box/FeF Liberator Controller

{{Category=CEB press}}

{{mergeto|CEB Press Build Instructions}}

=Step 2=
Source the electronics. Here is a diagram of the controller box

[[Image:controllerbox.jpg]]

Here is the complete controller installed:

[[Image:controllerboxinstalled.jpg|400px]]

[[Image:cutlerhammerbox.jpg|thumb|Electronics Box]]
[[Image:elctronicsbox.jpg|thumb|Electronics Box]]

Gross Electronics:

*Electronics Box - local hardware store
*Extension Cord
**Or house wiring with [http://www.harborfreight.com/125-volt-15-amp-female-plug-connector-93687.html Female Plug] and [http://www.harborfreight.com/125-volt-15-amp-male-plug-93686.html Male Plug].
*2 alligator clips for battery connection - auto parts store
*House wiring box (blue box in picture above below the Arduino Shield - hardware store
*Fuse holder - car parts store
*12v quick connect plugs - 5 pairs - for quick-coupling to solenoids out of controller box - car parts store
*Stranded 5A wire for solenoid connections
*Spade terminals (10) for connection to solenoid terminals
*Underground phone cable - makes very tough connectors for sensors
*Potting compound
*PVC pipe - with 1 end capped
*Stranded Cat 5 wire for sensor connections
*[5] Supermagnets -

Microelectronics:

*[2] Hall Effect Sensors - Sparkfun
*[1] Arduino shield kit - Makerbot
*[1] Arduino - Makerbot
*[2] RepRap PWM Driver Boards

Components for PWM Driver Boards

*[1] '''Replacement MOSFETS''' -
*[]

=Step 3=

Shopping list for items which are shipped:

*<span style="color:green">[1] Arduino breakout shield - [http://store.makerbot.com/arduino-breakout-shield-v1-4-kit.html $25], Makerbot
[[Image:Breakoutparts.jpg|thumb|Arduino breakout shield components. Solder green parts (left in picture) last, after the black pieces (bottom in picture).]]
**Assembly instructions - [http://www.reprap.org/wiki/Arduino_Breakout_1_4]
*<span style="color:green">[1] Arduino (Duemilanove) - [http://store.makerbot.com/arduino.html $30], Makerbot
*<span style="color:green">[2] Solenoid drivers -[http://store.makerbot.com/pwm-driver-v1-1-kit.html $13 ea.], Makerbot
**Assembly instructions - [http://www.reprap.org/wiki/PWM_Driver_1_1].
**total cost with shipping - $88.25
*<span style="color:green">[4] MOSFET replacements [http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?13,41238,41255,quote=1 (see discussion)] for solenoid drivers, VNP35N07-E - [http://www.futureelectronics.com/en/technologies/semiconductors/analog/drivers/mosfet-igbt-drivers/Pages/3890498-VNP35N07-E.aspx $3.34], Future Electronics (if not available, search at Octopart) (grate shaker is automated, no sensors needed for it)
**Notes: The cheaper version recommended by Nophead from RepRap was this [http://octopart.com/partsearch/#search/requestData&q=VNP14NV04-E]. See [http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?13,41238,41255,quote=1 discussion].
**Total $25.70 (for 5)
*<span style="color:green">[2] Hall Effect sensors - [http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=9312 $0.95 ea], Sparkfun
**Total $9.16 (for 5)
*<span style="color:green">[4] 3/8" V-groove bearings - [http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/V-Groove-Bearings/Kit8405 $7.77 ea], VXB
**Total $42.47
*<span style="color:green">[6] Supermagnets - [http://www.gaussboys.com/ndfeb-magnets/D1203E-N42.html $0.48], Gaussboys
**Total $11.11 (for 12)

Grand total for electronics, magnets, and bearings - $176.69

*<span style="color:green">[1] Potting Compound - [http://cgi.ebay.com/EPOXY-RESIN-CIRCUIT-BOARD-POTTING-COMPOUND-CASTING-48OZ-/310186942108?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4838951e9c $22 for 48 oz], Polymer Composites
*Molex connector for powering solenoid drivers - [http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102783]
*[1] Fuse holder - [http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102783]

=Step 4=
Put together control box and test sensors

*Assemble entire Control Box
**Blue spacer box - Arduino attached on top with 2 small screws. Slightly slanted attachment to make screw holes fit on blue spacer box
**Terminal in electrical outlet box cut in half on metal cutoff saw to create + and - terminals
**Plastic mount on bottom of electrical box was shaved to allow 2 solenoid drivers to fit

*Test Arduino on laptop - for example by [http://www.arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/Blink blinking Channel 13 output on Duemilanove].

*Test sensors by passing magnets over them. See this sample code.
**[http://www.sparkfun.com/datasheets/Components/General/Hall-US1881EUA.pdf Data Sheet]
**Supply voltage is 5V from the Arduino breakout shield
**The pins are +,-, OUT reading from top (printed / smaller face)
**The output is "Open Drain" - this means you need a "pull up" resistor on the output (10K connected to +)
**This model is "latching" which means it turns on from one pole, and off by the other, remembering its state in the meantime.

=Step 5=

*Test solenoid valves by attaching power to battery and running this sample code for 2 solenoid channels.
**Note we can reduce 3 solenoid channels to 2 by running both the shaker motor and the drawer cylinder from the same channel - the shaker is activated at every stroke of the drawer, as there is ample hydraulic fluid flow available in that part of the overall CEB operation cycle.

=Step 6=

Build sensor and magnet mounts, attach to the machine

=Step 7=

Mount control box and solenoid valve on the machine

=Step 8=

Test the entire machine
*Test motion of main cylinder with this code
*Test motion of soil drawer cylinder with this code.
*Test motion of both cylinders, and machine is ready to run.

[[Category:CEB Press Fabrication]]

Talk:Arduino Control of CEB Prototype 2

2011-08-27T02:07:49Z

Ryan Lutz: moved Talk:Arduino Control of CEB Prototype 2 to Talk:CEB Press/Manufacturing Instructions/Controller Box/Arduino Control of CEB Prototype 2

#REDIRECT [[Talk:CEB Press/Manufacturing Instructions/Controller Box/Arduino Control of CEB Prototype 2]]

Talk:CEB Press/Manufacturing Instructions/Controller Box/Arduino Control of CEB Prototype 2

2011-08-27T02:07:49Z

Ryan Lutz: moved Talk:Arduino Control of CEB Prototype 2 to Talk:CEB Press/Manufacturing Instructions/Controller Box/Arduino Control of CEB Prototype 2

Have you guys considered a couple of inductive linear encoders?

They aren't too difficult to build from scratch, and I think an Arduino could easily run two of them, as well as the solenoids.

Edit: Hackaday just linked to a [http://hackscape.wordpress.com/2009/11/27/mclvdt/ homebrew project] to build just such a sensor, from which I now know that the name I was searching for is "Linear Variable Differential Transformer." Enjoy!

--Joel

Arduino Control of CEB Prototype 2

2011-08-27T02:07:49Z

Ryan Lutz: moved Arduino Control of CEB Prototype 2 to CEB Press/Manufacturing Instructions/Controller Box/Arduino Control of CEB Prototype 2

#REDIRECT [[CEB Press/Manufacturing Instructions/Controller Box/Arduino Control of CEB Prototype 2]]

CEB Press/Manufacturing Instructions/Controller Box/Arduino Control of CEB Prototype 2

2011-08-27T02:07:49Z

Ryan Lutz: moved Arduino Control of CEB Prototype 2 to CEB Press/Manufacturing Instructions/Controller Box/Arduino Control of CEB Prototype 2

{{Category=CEB press}}
=System Requirements=

Starting with the installation of Arduino on Mac OS X 10.3.9 - http://arduino.cc/en/Guide/MacOSX - we move on to examine system requirements:
*Computer and USB connection for programming
*Arduino for control
*2 Solenoid Valves --relays to drive solenoid from arduino (12V 3.5A required?) Arduino max sink/source is 20mA.
*1 limit switch
*Power supply to arduino
*Power supply to solenoid valves

=Arduino=

We have Arduino Duemilanove:

[[Image:arduino.jpg]]

=Design Rationale=

*Power plug (after done with USB programming)
*2 signal outputs to control solenoid valve power (via 5V_in power solenoid?)
*Analog input from limit switch (after [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Open-loop_controller open-loop] configuration is tested)
*Analog input from ''CEB timing control'' - 5 channels

=Implementation procedure=
#Build CEB press
#Secure Arduino, limit switches, power and control cables, solenoid valves, power solenoids for solenoid valves
#Wire up hydraulics for quick attach
##One attachment via manual control from [[Power Cube]] valve
##Second attachment is a series connection from [[Power Cube]] valve to automatic solenoid control
#For automatic control, start with limit switches. Design and program their logic. Source all the components and have them on hand.

=Timing Adjustment Considerations=

#Field-controllable adjustment of the CEB press timing should be feasible - to accommodate for different hydraulic power levels. For example, if the CEB is powered by [[MicroTrac]], 10 GPM fluid flow is available, but with [[LifeTrac]], it may be up to 29 GPM. This means different pressing rates in bricks pressed per minute.
#The above is too complex, so a simple solution is limit switches - with completely pre-programmed logic and states determined by tripping of limit switches. Therefore, there should be 3 limit switches for each cylinder. This should be visible from the pressing steps below.

The timing logic from CEB Pressing Steps is:

[[Image:pressing_steps.jpg]]

#Start with brick ejected, main cylinder in up position, and hopper at the left (see [[CEB Pressing Steps]])
#Move main cylinder down to the bottom until for time=t_m1

...I quit here, because there is far too many adjustments to be made. Move right into position sensing, and do everything with [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Closed_loop closed loop] logic.

=Hardware=
*Arduino - [http://arduino.cc/en/Guide/MacOSX]
[[Image:Arduino.jpg|thumb]]

*Solenoid valve - [https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2009070810351173&item=9-6113&catname=]
[[Image:CEB_Solenoid_1.jpg|thumb]]

*Double acting solenoid valve is needed - [http://openfarmtech.org/index.php?title=Arduino_Control_of_CEB_Prototype_2]
[[Image:DA_Solenoid.jpg|thumb]]

*Connectors for solenoid valve - [https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2009100314151719&catname=&item=11-2457]
[[Image:hirschmann.jpg|thumb]]

*Limit switch - [https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2009071212005977&catname=electric&qty=1&item=11-1691]
[[Image:CEBlimitswitch.jpg|thumb]]

=Implementation and Discussion=

==Development Log==

*July, 2009 - [http://www.amazon.com/Arduino-Duemilanove/product-reviews/B001VK18HC/ref=dp_top_cm_cr_acr_txt?ie=UTF8&showViewpoints=1 Arduino Duemilanove] provided by [http://blog.runtux.com/ Ralf S].
===October 2, 2009===
*Arduino connected to Mac OS X 10.3.9 computer via USB cable.
<html>
<object width="400" height="300"><param name="allowfullscreen" value="true" /><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always" /><param name="movie" value="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=6868671&server=vimeo.com&show_title=1&show_byline=1&show_portrait=0&color=&fullscreen=1" /><embed src="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=6868671&server=vimeo.com&show_title=1&show_byline=1&show_portrait=0&color=&fullscreen=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" allowscriptaccess="always" width="400" height="300"></embed></object><p><a href="http://vimeo.com/6868671">Turnkey Arduino Duemilanove</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user2016419">Marcin Jakubowski</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p>
</html>
**Requires Java 1.5, Mac OSX 10.3.9 supports up to Java 1.4 only. Time to move on to Linux.
** [http://arduino.cc/en/Main/Software Arduino Desktop Environment downloaded] for Ubuntu 8.04 from Arduino site, by [http://www.arduino.cc/playground/Linux/Ubuntu following the test installation for Ubuntu 6.06].
***Installation on Ubuntu 8.04 was troublefree using the above instructions. Here is our adaptation for Ubuntu 8.04:
****Run Synaptic Package Manager (in "System > Administration").
****In the Synaptic Package Manager, first find the 3 files, and then mark for installation: "sun-java5-jre", "gcc-avr", "avr-libc". (If these are not installed already)
****We installed the 3 packages, which were downloaded in about 15 minutes - as in the 6.06 instructions.
****Follow the rest of the instructions to configure the newly installed Java packages, using Terminal. Then download and run the Arduino environment:
[[Image:Arduinoenv.jpg]]
****Simple example of controller test - controlling an LED light. Learn about[http://www.cplusplus.com/doc/tutorial/program_structure/ C++ basics]. Then, turn on an LED light out of one of the Arduino output pins, which is an [http://arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/Blink example provided on the Arduino site].
<html>
<object width="400" height="300"><param name="allowfullscreen" value="true" /><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always" /><param name="movie" value="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=6873137&server=vimeo.com&show_title=1&show_byline=1&show_portrait=0&color=&fullscreen=1" /><embed src="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=6873137&server=vimeo.com&show_title=1&show_byline=1&show_portrait=0&color=&fullscreen=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" allowscriptaccess="always" width="400" height="300"></embed></object><p><a href="http://vimeo.com/6873137">Arduino Says "Hello World"</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user2016419">Marcin Jakubowski</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p>
</html>
****Here is the sample light:
<html>
<object width="400" height="300"><param name="allowfullscreen" value="true" /><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always" /><param name="movie" value="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=6872830&server=vimeo.com&show_title=1&show_byline=1&show_portrait=0&color=&fullscreen=1" /><embed src="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=6872830&server=vimeo.com&show_title=1&show_byline=1&show_portrait=0&color=&fullscreen=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" allowscriptaccess="always" width="400" height="300"></embed></object><p><a href="http://vimeo.com/6872830">From LED to CEB</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user2016419">Marcin Jakubowski</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p>
</html>
**After discussion with [[Lawrence]], we decided to do automation without limit switches, due to the high precision (1/32 of an inch) required in a dirty environment. We decided to do preprogrammed timing, which can be adjusted in the field for brick thickness and engine power.

===October 3 ===
*Updated circuit based on feedback from Ralf
[[Image:CEBcontrolelec2.jpg]]
===October 4 ===
*Circuit suggestion from Ralf:
[[Image:CEBcontroller3.jpg]]
*Ben Gatti arrived, and we began by took IRFP260N power MOSFETs out of a broken inverter. We began the day with the idea of using IRF510A 16 amp power MOSFETS, which Ben got for $2 at Radio Shack:
<html>
<object width="400" height="300"><param name="allowfullscreen" value="true" /><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always" /><param name="movie" value="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=6895988&server=vimeo.com&show_title=1&show_byline=1&show_portrait=0&color=&fullscreen=1" /><embed src="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=6895988&server=vimeo.com&show_title=1&show_byline=1&show_portrait=0&color=&fullscreen=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" allowscriptaccess="always" width="400" height="300"></embed></object><p><a href="http://vimeo.com/6895988">Ben on CEB Control 1</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user2016419">Marcin Jakubowski</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p>
</html>
and moved on to the bigger ([http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10001&catalogId=10001&pa=670101&productId=670101&keyCode=PDF 50 amp IRFP260N ($2.75)] simply because we had them available:
<html>
<object width="400" height="300"><param name="allowfullscreen" value="true" /><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always" /><param name="movie" value="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=6896018&server=vimeo.com&show_title=1&show_byline=1&show_portrait=0&color=&fullscreen=1" /><embed src="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=6896018&server=vimeo.com&show_title=1&show_byline=1&show_portrait=0&color=&fullscreen=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" allowscriptaccess="always" width="400" height="300"></embed></object><p><a href="http://vimeo.com/6896018">Ben on CEB controls 2</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user2016419">Marcin Jakubowski</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p>
</html>
*Circuit being built by Ben:
[[Image:CEBCircuit3.jpg]]
Only one solenoid section is shown. For 2 double-acting solenoids, this means 4 MOSFETs.
*Circuit tested with a dummy load. Transsistors (MOSFETS) are driving the LED light:
<html>
<object width="400" height="300"><param name="allowfullscreen" value="true" /><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always" /><param name="movie" value="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=6899988&server=vimeo.com&show_title=1&show_byline=1&show_portrait=0&color=&fullscreen=1" /><embed src="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=6899988&server=vimeo.com&show_title=1&show_byline=1&show_portrait=0&color=&fullscreen=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" allowscriptaccess="always" width="400" height="300"></embed></object><p><a href="http://vimeo.com/6899988">CEB Control Part 3</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user2016419">Marcin Jakubowski</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p>
</html>
*Circuit tested with a battery, like will be used with the CEB machine:
<html>
<object width="400" height="300"><param name="allowfullscreen" value="true" /><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always" /><param name="movie" value="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=6900120&server=vimeo.com&show_title=1&show_byline=1&show_portrait=0&color=&fullscreen=1" /><embed src="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=6900120&server=vimeo.com&show_title=1&show_byline=1&show_portrait=0&color=&fullscreen=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" allowscriptaccess="always" width="400" height="300"></embed></object><p><a href="http://vimeo.com/6900120">CEB Control Part 4</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user2016419">Marcin Jakubowski</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p>
</html>
*Finally, the circuit was tested with a real load on one of the transistor channels, a 1 amp light:
<html>
<object width="400" height="300"><param name="allowfullscreen" value="true" /><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always" /><param name="movie" value="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=6919390&server=vimeo.com&show_title=1&show_byline=1&show_portrait=0&color=&fullscreen=1" /><embed src="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=6919390&server=vimeo.com&show_title=1&show_byline=1&show_portrait=0&color=&fullscreen=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" allowscriptaccess="always" width="400" height="300"></embed></object><p><a href="http://vimeo.com/6919390">CEB Control Part 5</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user2016419">Marcin Jakubowski</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p>
</html>

===October 5===
*We wired up all of the 4 MOSFET channels, and added indicator lights to see the logic transitions. Ben programmed the Arduino for the correct CEB pressing sequence.
<html>
<object width="400" height="300"><param name="allowfullscreen" value="true" /><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always" /><param name="movie" value="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=6919403&server=vimeo.com&show_title=1&show_byline=1&show_portrait=0&color=&fullscreen=1" /><embed src="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=6919403&server=vimeo.com&show_title=1&show_byline=1&show_portrait=0&color=&fullscreen=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" allowscriptaccess="always" width="400" height="300"></embed></object><p><a href="http://vimeo.com/6919403">CEB Control Part 6</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user2016419">Marcin Jakubowski</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p>
</html>
*Here is the final circuit, ready to be attached to solenoids:
<html>
<object width="400" height="300"><param name="allowfullscreen" value="true" /><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always" /><param name="movie" value="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=6919410&server=vimeo.com&show_title=1&show_byline=1&show_portrait=0&color=&fullscreen=1" /><embed src="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=6919410&server=vimeo.com&show_title=1&show_byline=1&show_portrait=0&color=&fullscreen=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" allowscriptaccess="always" width="400" height="300"></embed></object><p><a href="http://vimeo.com/6919410">CEB Machine Controller v1.0</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user2016419">Marcin Jakubowski</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p>
</html>

===October 5===
*The rest of the MOSFETS were wired up

=Control Logic=
C1=Main Pressing Cylinder, C2=Secondary Hopper Cylinder

==On/Off==

To run the CEB machine, one should turn on the hydraulic power source first. Then, the electronics should be turned on.

Electronics power-up includes:

#Powering up the Arduino controller
#Powering up the relays

Proposed Circuitry (see [http://www.kpsec.freeuk.com/symbol.htm description of symbols] used) drawn with [http://www.physicsbox.com/indexsolveelec2en.html Solve Elec] free software:

[[Image:CEBControl.jpg]]

===Review Comments===
#Need snubber diodes for back-EMF of solenoid coils
#Need 4 transistors or relays because each double-acting solenoid valve has 2 solenoic coils
#Need optoisolation for back-EMF

==Zeroing==
Refer to [http://openfarmtech.org/index.php?title=Arduino_Control_of_CEB_Prototype_2#Timing_Adjustment_Considerations pressing diagram]. Define the 'zero position' as the position where all soil or the brick is ejected from the machine. Start by zeroing all positions - ejecting any remaining brick or soil left in the pressing chamber. This action is done irrespective of cylinder positions, assuming they are in the farthest position off zero. This means 3 steps:

#Move C2 all the way to the right (allows ejection of brick via C1)
#Move C1 all the way to the top (brick ejection from compression chamber)
#Move C2 all the way to the left (brick ejection from the machine)

Control logic involves the zeroing action upon startup at all times. This is done at the beginning of brick pressing :
#Under normal conditions
#After any power outage to the controller
#After CEB machine runs out of gas
#Any other contingency

The zeroing action also fills the loading drawer with soil, assuming that the hopper is filled with soil.

==Brick Pressing==

To begin brick pressing, start at the zero position (C1 at top, C2 at left). Then:

#Move C1 down all the way (8 inches) - this loads the compression chamber with soil
#Move C2 7 inches to the right (half of its stroke) - this closes the compression chamber in preparation for pressing
#Move C1 up half way (4 inches) - this is the compression stroke
#Move C1 down 1/4 inch - this relieves pressure against the loading drawer
#Move C2 right all the way (7 inches) - this opens the compression chamber for block ejection
#Move C1 up all the way (4 inches) - this ejects the block from the compression chamber
#Move C2 all the way to the left (14 inches) - this ejects the block from the machine

This completes a pressing cycle, and returns the machine to zero position.

==Control Logic Rationale==

The basic control principle is that the valve-open time determines the length of cylinder travel. The longer the valve is open, the longer the cylinder travel. This is both for the forward and reverse motions. It is also assumed that fluid flow is constant - or that the [[Power Cube]] is at maximum throttle for the lengh of the pressing session.

It should be noted, however, that the rate of cylinder travel will be slightly different in the forward (extension) and reverse (contraction) direction - by design of hydraulic cylinders. This is because one side of the cylinder contains the cylinder rod, which takes up cylinder volume. From a practical perspective, the rod reduces the effective working diameter of the cylinder. For example, our 5" cylinder has a 2.5" rod, or 1/4 the volume of the cylinder. Thus, the cylinder contracts 1.3 times as fast as it extends.

C1 is a large-diameter (5 inch) hydraulic cylinder. C2 is a thin (1.5") cylinder, and therefore, it moves about 10 times faster than C1 for a given hydraulic fluid flow. Therefore, its speed must be limited with a needle valve. Otherwise, timing of this cylinder may produce non-replicable motion. Moreover, this cylinder cannot move so fast that it produces damaging stresses. The practical speed of C2 must be determined in field testing. The faster C2 moves, the more favorable this is for overall rate of brick pressing. Also, the faster C2 moves, the more difficult it is to make it stop at the same location for a given valve-open time.

To control the CEB machine, programmable timing is sufficient to control cylinder motion completely. However, field testing will determine practical limits. If C2 motion is slowed down excessively to allow for complete control, it may be necessary to use limit switches - which allow for replicable stopping position of the cylinder at any cylinder speed. This is not likely to be necessary for C1, but C2 may require a limit switch. For now, we will assume that no limit switches are required, which simplifies hardware requirements for the control scheme.

==Calculations==

Under the assumption that the hydraulic circuit is incompressible, we may calculate the accuracy of cylinder motion based on the turn-on and turn-off time of the solenoids. We assume that the accuracy is deternmined by these times. Assuming 50 ms turn-on and turn-off time, we calculate the maximum inaccuracy as the length of travel that could occur during the 100 ms of total solenoid state transition time. We multiply cylinder speed by this transition time to determine the accuracy limit.

V (in/sec) = [Q (cu in/sec)]/[A (sq in)]
= 5.4 in/sec

V = cylinder speed
Q = hydraulic flow rate = 10 gallons/min = 1/6 gallons/sec = 38.5 cu in/sec
A = area of cylinder = pi * radius^2 = 7.1 sq in

Thus, accuracy = V * .1 sec = .54 in

This result indicates that timing could possibly work.

Given that the cylinder rod is 1" and the cylinder is 1.5" in diameter, the velocity of contraction is 1.8 times that of expansion. Thus, maximum inaccuracy of relevant contraction is about 1". This could be unacceptable, unless the timing is adjusted to accommodate transition time - in which case the limit of inaccuracy would be the variation of transition time. The variation of transition time should be a small fraction (10% or less). Therefore, control of cylinder contraction should be achievable down to 0.1", which is acceptable for good performance without using limit switches. Note that this is without using a needle valve - so using a needle valve to reduce the flow rate to, say, 5 gallons per minute - would double our accuracy.

==Timing Logic==

The timing should be adjustable in the field. Timing adjustment should also be the means to brick thickness control. Timing steps should be as follows for 4" bricks:

#TC10=zeroing time for Cylinder 1= length of time expected for 8 inch extension of C1
#TC1d=time for C1 to contract 8 inches (d for downward) = TC10/1.3
#TC1c=time required for compression using C1 (c for compression) = TC10/2 + TC10*.05
##Second term accommodates for slowdown of cylinder upon reaching full brick compression, where 0.05 is an arbitrary fractional time increase
#TC1b=time for C1 to go from compression position back to relieve pressure against drawer (b for back) = TC10*.05
#TC1e=time for C1 to go from compression position to ejection of block from compression chamber (e for ejection) = TC10/2 + TC10*.05
##Second term accommodates for unusually thick bricks, under the condition of abnormally incompressible soil, where the travel to ejection is longer than 4 inches
#TC20=zeroing time for cylinder 2=length of time expected for 14 inch extension of C1 = TC10/11.1 (based on thicknesses of both cylinders, 5 and 1.5 inches)
#TC2p=time for C2 to close compression chamber by moving 7 inches to the right = TC20/3.6
##Note: this must be exact, and maximum acceptable error is 1/2" in either direction from exact 'closed compression chamber' position, because the 'closing lid' is 1" wider than the compression chamber.
#TC2o=time for c2 to open the compression chamber by moving 7 more inches to the right = TC20/3.6 + TC20*.05
##Second term accommodates for inaccuracies resulting from TC2p

==Source Code==

*v1.01 - code by preprogramming motion times, not by scaling motion times by respective factors - see [[CEB Control Source Code v1.01]]
*v1.02 - same as above, but scaling from a base value of BaseTime; more annotations - [[CEB Control Source Code v1.02]]

===Testing Code===
*Testing of up-down and variation on main cylinder = [[testcodemainy v1.0]]

===Pressing Test Code===
*Testing of actual pressing (see video at http://openfarmtech.org/weblog/?p=1259) = [[presstest v1.0]]

=Automation Testing Procedure=

The solenoids should be arriving 10.13.09.

Our experimental procedure will be:

1. Test solenoids working with the CEB machine. Use preprogrammed timing. Adjust the timing with the computer.

2. Determine if human-adjustment (no sensors) is capable of producing the 7 brick per minute theoretical efficiency of the machine - ie, that the machine stops in the correct cylinder positions. To do this, adjust the timing within the code based on one scalar, the hydraulic fluid flow rate - given that the cylinder speeds can all be calculated from this single scalar.

3. Then, adjust the flow on the small cylinder with a needle valve to get the correct position for pressing, which is the only critical adjustment that needs to be made. To be in the correct position, it has to stop within 1/2" accuracy of a certain point. Test whether this is achievable with preprogrammed control, based on the acceptable 50 ms response time of the hydraulic solenoids.

4. Perform all tests at full throttle, and determine replicability by pressing about 50 bricks. If performance is replicable, the test is complete. If replicability is not achieved, sensors should be added.

5. Acceptable performance is that consistent with theoretical predictions based on fluid flow - or 7 bricks/minute - minus .5 second time lost per brick because of lack of sensors. This translates to 1/2 brick lost per minute over optimal performance.

6. At this point, we may decide the acceptability of this for product release.

=40 GPM Solenoid Valves=
*[http://stores.daltonhydraulic.com/-strse-Control-Valves--dsh--Solenoid-cln-D05-40GPM-Directional-Valves--dsh--DC/Categories.bok Dalton Hydraulics, 40 gpm, $150]

=Discussion=

==Ralf 1:==

http://www.jaycar.com/images_uploaded/relaydrv.pdf

has a circuit (the voltage depends on the relay you use). You absolutely
need the diode parallel to the relay. It will short-circuit the negative
voltage when turning off the relais. A cheap 1N4148 will do ($0.02).
Don't connect the relay directly to the arduino without a diode. If you
intend to connect the relais directly make sure it doesn't draw more
that 40mA.

I'd still use the L298N for driving the valves. You need only one for
two valves and some external diodes. Be sure to use a heatsink. If you
can't come up with the circuit I can help you.

As written earlier turning large current for an inductive load on and
off very often (of a valve) will probably wear relais quite fast, so
using a solid-state switch (L298N) ist better.

How much do the valves draw? You have 2?

==Ralf 2==

> Q1. Power source for Arduino. Just use a 5V wall transformer?

You have the duemilanove, it takes 7-12V input, I'd recomment to stay
below 10. DON'T go over 12, if you use a 12V transformer and produce DC
from it, this will be about 14V !!
See http://arduino.cc/en/Main/ArduinoBoardDuemilanove
for the specs. You need stabilized DC. I've used a wall-plug
switching power supply of 9V, similar to that one:
http://shop.conrad.at/ce/de/product/510821/

You don't need so much power, so for the arduino only (I've used that to
power the motor of my chicken door, too, see
http://blog.runtux.com/2009/01/08/9/ (in german).

During development the arduino works well with power over the usb
connector. So I'd recommend starting with the software (pointer below)
while building the hw.

> Q2. If I want to go power a 120v air solenoid, how do I do it? Use a relay
> with signal out of an arduino output, and I'm done? Can you draw a circuit
> for this?

'''Note: Question applicable to [http://openfarmtech.org/weblog/?p=732 water pump], not CEB controls. CEB solenoids are 12V'''

I'd use a solid-state relay with a Triac and an Opto-Triac with zero
crossing. I'm using the MOC 3041 here with 240V mains -- you will want
to use the MOC 3031 for US. See PDF Datasheet on that page:
http://www.fairchildsemi.com/pf/MO/MOC3031-M.html
The datasheet has a "Hot-Line Switching" circuit on P.6 in Fig. 12 which
you can use unmodified. If you're not concerned about noise on the line
(you don't have neighbors using your mains power :-), you can leave out
the 39 Ohm and 0.01 µF (10 nF) parallel to the Triac.

For the Power Triac in that circuit I've used the BT139/800H, this can
switch up to 16 A and won't be destroyed by high voltage due to
inductive load.
Datasheet: http://www.nxp.com/acrobat/datasheets/BT139_SERIES_4.pdf
but you can use almost any Triac.

You connect an output-pin of the arduino to a 220 Ohm resistor in series
with Pin 1 of the MOC3031. Pin 2 of the MOC3031 is Arduino ground.
(the MOC3031 needs 15mA, the Diode needs 1.8 V, Arduino is 5V, so you
need R = U / I = (5 - 1.8) / 0.015 = 213 Ohm).

Switching inductive load with a relay won't fit your lifetime-design
goals as it will burn its contacts sooner or later. But a relay circuit
*is* a little easier:

arduino output pin -----+----+ +----- mains
| | |
Relais ^ *
| | |Relais switch
| | |
-+- -+- *----Valve --- mains-

you need a 5V Relais that can switch 115V mains which might be hard to
get. Parallel to the relais you need a diode (e.g. 1N4148) that will
short-circuit the relais when turned off (inductive load of relay will
produce a negative voltage when turned of which could kill the arduino)

The relay shouldn't draw more than 40mA on the I/O pin of the Arduino.
Otherwise you'll need a transistor circuit to drive the relay: 4k7 from
arduino out to the basis of an NPN-Transistor (BC 237 or similar)
Emitter to ground, Collector to Relay, Relay to +5 (or +9 depending on
relay) Volts. Parallel to the Relay again the diode as in the circuit
above or you'll kill the transistor.

> Q3. How do I program the code? I want 5 seconds on, and 30 seconds off on
> the air solenoid. Can you write the code or help me write it?
Thats simple and is covered by one of the early arduino examples:

http://www.arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/BlinkingLED

I wouldn't connect the LED without a resistor in series as in the photo,
though. But you're lucky, the arduino has a small yellow led on board
connected to pin 13 (with resistor :-), as used in the example-code. The
example code will blink the led one second on, one second off. The delay
function call takes microseconds as parameter. So modifying that to 5
seconds on and 30 seconds off is left as an execercise to the reader.

Later you connect the power-switching circuit instead of the led -- I'd
recommend to use a pin different from 13 (because 13 already has a led
on board which will draw some power and you want the full 40mA on the
pin if necessary). That can be modified with the assignment to ledPin
before the setup function.

> It would be nice to get this so we can have water in winter if the
> greenhouse storage freezes. We have a well, but no pump.

Let me know how things are going and if you have further questions.

> CEB:
>
> Q1. If I want to power a 12V hydraulic high pressure solenoid, using the
> same strategy as above would work with minor corrections. Just need to
> connect to 12v on the Power Cube.
You need another power circuit than for mains current -- this is true
for Relay-Circuit, too, the Relais for switching high current is
different from a mains relay. How much current will the solenoid draw?
There are ready-made H-Bridge circuits for switching low-voltage, e.g.,
the L293D for up to 1A, the L298N for 2A (two circuits in one which may
be switched in parallel for up to 4A), english datasheet is attached to
that page: http://shop.conrad.at/ce/de/product/156128/ (Conrad has very
high price for this part, you can get ist for less than 3 Euro)
these are usually used for driving a motor, because you can change the
direction with two half-circuits. If you only need power/no power you
can use one circuit for driving two valves.

For higher currents you can use a TLE 5206 (5A 40V), but there may be
some with even higher current.

> Q2. I will have mechanical limit switches, 3 of them on the main cylinder,
> and 3 on the hopper cylinder. Do I have any issues with doing that on
> Arduino?

You can use digital inputs on the Arduino for reading the switches.
Be sure to debounce the digital inputs in software (with high
electro-mechanic interference you may get wrong readings from the
switch). The arduino tutorial has code for that and I've written a
library for it. Debounce time depends on your requirements how fast the
switch should trigger an action.

> Q3. If you point me to some hints on Q3 on the water pump, I can figure out
> the rest.
There is a very good tutorial for learning the things you need to know
with the arduino: http://arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/HomePage

But if you have any questions, don't hesitate to contact me.

> I've just never done this stuff before, so a basic tutorial would be
> appreciated. This is good to document, and allow full controls at anyone's
> fingertips, with Arduino as a good choice.

Yep, see above for getting up speed with the arduino. Incidentally the
blinking led example is also the first in the tutorial. And you don't
need much more for the pump above.

> I started documenting at
> http://openfarmtech.org/index.php?title=Arduino_Control_of_CEB_Prototype_2
Reading that I guess for the 12V 3.5A valves you can use the L298N, you
should use a heatsink and in addition you need four external fast
diodes, e.g., SB 390 http://shop.conrad.at/ce/de/product/160221/
(datasheet in english available through that link)
You can use *one* L298N for driving two valves and you need 4 diodes.
Be sure to take a look into the data sheet of the L298N, mine has a
motor control circuit in fig 6 p. 6/13 and a diagram how to parallel two
half-circuits in fig 7 p. 7/13. You want to combine these.
There are 4 circuits in the L298N, you parallel two each and use only
the left half of Fig 6 (with two parallelled circuits) the right
connector of the moter (the valve in our case) is connected to ground.

If you can't figure it out, I can draw a circuit.

Ralf

CEB Automation Prototype II

2011-08-27T02:07:11Z

Ryan Lutz: moved CEB Automation Prototype II to CEB Press/Manufacturing Instructions/Controller Box/Automation Prototype II

#REDIRECT [[CEB Press/Manufacturing Instructions/Controller Box/Automation Prototype II]]

CEB Press/Manufacturing Instructions/Controller Box/Automation Prototype II

2011-08-27T02:07:11Z

Ryan Lutz: moved CEB Automation Prototype II to CEB Press/Manufacturing Instructions/Controller Box/Automation Prototype II

This is 2010 continuation of [http://openfarmtech.org/index.php/Arduino_Control_of_CEB_Prototype_2 work from 2009].

CEB Automation Strategy, the first Technical Paper - is found at the project management site at [http://openpario.mime.oregonstate.edu/documents/100 Open+Pario].

=Overall Design for Electronics and Sensors=

=Solenoid Valves=

This is the critical and the most expensive component of the controls. Solenoid valves must be rated for 25 gallons per minute and 2500 PSI.

*Dalton Hydraulics is the initial source to check - [http://stores.daltonhydraulic.com/-strse-674/Solenoid-Directional-Control-Valve%2C/Detail.bok] - What amperage is required? 3 amps according to spec sheet.
*Subplate for valves - [http://stores.daltonhydraulic.com/-strse-695/D05-Solenoid-Valve-Subplate/Detail.bok]

[[Image:coilamps.jpg|thumb|Coil current requirement (12V - 3A)]]

=Arduino Controller=

*See previous work on [[CEB Automation]]
*Arduino tutorial from Adafruit Industries - [http://www.ladyada.net/learn/arduino/index.html]

==Basic Design==
==Control Code==
#Zeroing
#One brick pressed at a time
#Continuous pressing
##Accommodate sensing
##Accommodate timeout

=Solenoid Drivers=

We are using [[http://www.reprap.org/wiki/PWM_Driver_1_1 PWM Driver v1.1]] boards from the RepRap project to control the solenoids in [[The Liberator]]. Two are needed to accommodate 5 channels: up-down on main cylinder, left-right on secondary cylinder, and one shaker turn-on.

*[http://store.makerbot.com/electronics/electronics-kits/pwm-driver-v1-1-kit.html Makerbot Store]
*[http://www.reprap.org/bin/view/Main/PWM_Driver_1_1 instructions]
**Make sure to address the [http://replibot.blogspot.com/2009/12/starting-at-000.html known bug] in assembly (incorrect diode placement). Here is the board after diode placement was corrected:

[[Image:correctedboard.jpg]]

Only 3 channels, but otherwise perfect. We used 2 of these boards, since we need a total of 5 channels.

Probably good to use two of these and an Arduino or similar generic board for the moment and put off a dedicated PCB for someday.

BTW, Makerbot Industries is a pretty good example of a business based in open source hardware.

==Replacement MOSFET==

This should be a drop in replacement for the TIP120 darlington drivers with all round better performance. 32A, 100V max and only GBP0.87 each in small quantities:
*http://octopart.com/info/STMicroelectronics/STP30NF10

We ended up using these since we're in the USA:
*[http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=IXTP44N10T-ND] - easier to get in the USA

See discussion at the [[RepRap]] forum as to why the above choice fails, and solution - [[suitable MOSFET for inductive loads]].

[[Discussion on why the replacement MOSFET is desired over the initial current driver]]

Resulting success with the protected MOSFETS:

<html>
<embed src="http://blip.tv/play/AYHUyykA" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" width="640" height="510" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true"></embed>
</html>

=Magnetic Sensors=

*Hall Effect Sensors - [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hall_effect_sensor]
*Example of Arduino-based Hall Effect Sensor at RMIT - [http://www.openobject.org/opensourceurbanism/Adding_a_Sensor]
**Read [http://www.electro-tech-online.com/electronic-projects-design-ideas-reviews/97526-wiring-up-hall-effect-switch.html this thread] on wiring up a Hall effect sensor
*US1881 - [http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=9312]
[[Image:us1881general.jpg|thumb|General description of US1881 Hall Effect Sensor]]
[[Image:us1881electrical.jpg|thumb|Electrical properties of US1881 Hall Effect Sensor]]
**the sensor was purchased from [Sparkfun
http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=9312], see [datasheet http://www.sparkfun.com/datasheets/Components/General/Hall-US1881EUA.pdf]
***The pins are +,-, OUT reading from top (printed / smaller face)
***In addition, the output is "Open Drain" - this means you need a "pull up" resistor on the output (10K connected to +)
***Also, this model is "latching" which means it turns on from one pole, and off by the other, remembering it's state in the meantime. (mount the magnet so both poles pass the sensor. - not sure that's ideal, but it's the only model SF sells.)

=Modular Electronics Case and Plugs=

Here is a wiring diagram from James Wise, who is also prototyping the controller remotely:

[[Image:cebcontrollbox.jpg|480px]]

=Other Parts/Supplies=
*An arduino ''shield'', or small circuit board superposed on top of Arduino for easier workability, is useful in our case. We got the [http://reprap.org/bin/view/Main/Arduino_Breakout_1_4 Arduino breakout shield v1.4 kit from Makerbot Industries]. This kit required soldering.
*[http://cgi.ebay.com/EPOXY-RESIN-CIRCUIT-BOARD-POTTING-COMPOUND-CASTING-48OZ_W0QQitemZ310186942108QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item4838951e9c Potting Compound]

=Accessories=
*Helping Hands Tool - [http://www.edmwi.com/home/edm/page_90_38/hobby_tool___helping_hands_w_magnifying_lense___cl.html]
[[Image:helpinghands.jpg|thumb]]

=Debugging=
*PVC tube housed sensor. Silicone caulk sealed the sensor inside. Bad idea. Silicone never dries inside. There was a loose connection, so I freed the sensor and encapsulated again.

[[Category:CEB Automation]]
[[Category:CEB Press]]
[[Category:CEB]]
[[Catogory:Automation]]

Universal Power Supply

2011-08-27T02:01:06Z

Ryan Lutz:

{{ToolTemplate|ToolName=Universal Power Supply}}

{{Category=Power quality}}

=Definition/Concept=
This is a combination inverter, converter, pulse-width modulation current controller, and high frequency power supply for applications from off-grid power, charge controllers, to power supplies for welders, induction furnaces, and plasma cutters.

[[Uninterrupted Power Supply Concept]]

[[Power Electronics Construction Set]]

==Inverter Definition==
An [[inverter]] is an electrical device that converts DC voltage from batteries to AC voltage for off-shelf electrical tools and appliances.

=Problem Statement=
A large range of power electronic devices is desirable within the infrastructure of communities. Having an individual power supply for each is redundant and expensive. A modular UPS construction kit is desirable as an analogue to the 'industrial-strength Lego' that we have already demonstrated for heavy mechanical hardware infrastructures.

[[Problem Statement for a Universal Power Supply]]

==Inverter Problem Statement==
Off-shelf inverters have about a 2 year lifetime (ref), and 5-10 year lifetime for higher quality models (ref). Lifetime design inverters with plug-in replacement components are required for sustainable communities which use battery storage as a component of their electricity infrastructure. The only other feasible, non-battery, non-fuel energy storage may be via heat storage coupled to thermoelectric generators, or possibly thermal storage via phase-change salts and heat engines.

=Development Status and Needs=
We need to identify a subject matter expert with experience in inverter design.

[[Category: Electronics]]
{{GVCS List}}

Universal Power Supply/Research Development

2011-08-27T02:00:46Z

Ryan Lutz:

{{ToolTemplate|ToolName=Universal Power Supply}}

The universal power supply contains the power electronics and power supplies for:

* Welders
* Plasma Cutters
* Battery Chargers
* Induction Furnaces
* CO2 Laser Cutters
* Stepper Motors
* Charge Controllers

[[Image:upseco.png|thumb|right|Universal Power Supply Ecology]]

==Applications==
*Powering welders, plasma cutters, battery chargers, induction furnaces, CO2 laser cutters
*[[Inverter]]s for household power from batteries
*Voltage regulation/conditioning to get grid-quality power from variable power sources such as windmills, steam engines (especially solar powered)
*Battery charging from windmills, steam engines

(the other mechanical components of the above devices are covered as separate tools of the [[GVCS]])

==Physical Dimensions==

As an example, the [http://www.zappworks.com/battery_specs.htm| Zapp Star 1000] [[Nickel-Iron Battery]] is listed as 15" x 6" x 20". Ten of these for a 12 volt battery with 1000Ah would require 10.4 cubic feet with an approximate weight of 1400 pounds (using similar [http://www.beutilityfree.com/pdf_files/NiFeFlyer.pdf| BeUtilityFree] specs). This is not man-portable. Scaling down to 12 volts at 100Ah reduces the dimensions to 1.5 cubic feet and 150 pounds. Build ten of these and you can wire them in parallel to increase work time or in series to increase voltage (which may be advantageous in charging). Assume roughly 1.5 cubic feet 150 pound 12 volt 100Ah battery cube.

What are the dimensions of hydraulic power cube? Use the same cube frame?

==Other specifications==

*Scalability via modular add-on
*Quick disconnect components wherever possible
*Logic circuits millable with basic [[CNC Circuit Mill]]
*Insulators printable with [[3D Printer]] or [[Ceramic 3D Printer]]
*Ability to operate with any voltage from a few volts to 1kV
*Ability to generate any frequency
*Open Source Enclosure - enclosure design that allows maximum scalability and flexibility
*Design for flexible fabrication via [[Open Source Fab Lab]], initially using off-shelf components

In practice, the above will be implemented by refining one functionality after another, and adding modules that will allow for different functions and scales.

We're interested in a universal, modular power conversion device for electricity. I am talking about different modules that can be plugged together for something like a Lego Set of power electronics. Each module would in itself be modular, so it can consist of a number of units connected for scaling current or voltage.

==Modules==

* 50/60 hz electricity at common voltages such as 110 or 230 or 440
* DC current for plasma cutters or welders
* Battery charge-controller current
* High frequency power for induction furnaces
* Regulation of variable voltage (say 60-230 v AC) to charge batteries
* DC-DC conversion.
* [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Synchronous_inverter Synchronous inverter] so that multiple units can be stacked for applications that require higher current

That just about covers all power devices for advanced civilization, more or less.

==Design Path==

The general scheme would be to: (1) rectify a typically oscillating input from some power generating device, if it's not DC already, (2) chop it up, (3) scale it, (4) form it, (5) and finally, spit it out as DC or AC.

We want to create a universal switched mode power supply kit, with some power conditioning and regulation.

Please propose a basic starting circuit with the following specs:
(1) Takes any AC input (from an ac generator) to either battery storage or an inverter/converter.
(2) Specify parts for a system that can runs from 100W to about 20kW for starters. Is this feasible, or is the problem statement ill-defined?

After the above, we'd have to go to 3-phase converters, since many appliances of interest (such as induction furnaces) run off 3-phase.

==See also==
*[[Inverter Concept]]
*[[Charge Controller Concept]]

[[Category:Universal Power Supply]]
[[Category:Electronics]]