3D Printer Shipping Followup - Revision history

Marcin: /* 1/22 */

2022-01-17T04:50:32Z

1/22

← Older revision		Revision as of 04:50, 17 January 2022
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	https://docs.google.com/presentation/d/1JjMpcTjXlaZeWvtbxftFurFAb4n-8t94lhnh40TtrY8/edit#slide=id.g4303b70038_0_0		https://docs.google.com/presentation/d/1JjMpcTjXlaZeWvtbxftFurFAb4n-8t94lhnh40TtrY8/edit#slide=id.g4303b70038_0_0

	But you'll probably need ~~only~~ the wiring instructions:		But I just suggest you use the pictures at

			https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipPWITFMcDNyzmM8LcyVDJW3kDMuPGpFlPPMDatNOgDQo0GDyqc6fPyf4vONWWwSxw?key=TjBZWEdtTTVFaFZZTzJyWkpxTVVYeFB0MzNuazhn

			for guidance - which is from the built version to the kit parts.

			You'll probably need the wiring instructions:

	https://docs.google.com/presentation/d/1JjMpcTjXlaZeWvtbxftFurFAb4n-8t94lhnh40TtrY8/edit#slide=id.g731b5ed493_0_93		https://docs.google.com/presentation/d/1JjMpcTjXlaZeWvtbxftFurFAb4n-8t94lhnh40TtrY8/edit#slide=id.g731b5ed493_0_93

Marcin: /* 1/22 */

2022-01-17T04:48:38Z

1/22

← Older revision		Revision as of 04:48, 17 January 2022
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	For the build, main instructions are here:		For the build, main instructions are here:

	https://docs.google.com/presentation/d/~~1i_xDXD2abPEECNjeCk0r5WgIvJhgO_CC0n~~-~~VkQ2fEFA~~/edit#slide=id.g4303b70038_0_0		https://docs.google.com/presentation/d/1JjMpcTjXlaZeWvtbxftFurFAb4n-8t94lhnh40TtrY8/edit#slide=id.g4303b70038_0_0

	But you'll probably need only the wiring instructions:		But you'll probably need only the wiring instructions:
	https://docs.google.com/presentation/d/~~1i_xDXD2abPEECNjeCk0r5WgIvJhgO_CC0n~~-~~VkQ2fEFA~~/edit#slide=id.~~ge826c93843_0_0~~
	And then the startup procedures at		https://docs.google.com/presentation/d/1JjMpcTjXlaZeWvtbxftFurFAb4n-8t94lhnh40TtrY8/edit#slide=id.g731b5ed493_0_93

			And then the startup procedures at

	https://docs.google.com/presentation/d/1JjMpcTjXlaZeWvtbxftFurFAb4n-8t94lhnh40TtrY8/edit#slide=id.ga7fa8e3d9f_0_0		https://docs.google.com/presentation/d/1JjMpcTjXlaZeWvtbxftFurFAb4n-8t94lhnh40TtrY8/edit#slide=id.ga7fa8e3d9f_0_0

	We switched to a halogen bulb heater from the former nichrome version, which means you don't have to build the heater element yourself as in former versions. See https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TH2Bgi7SXSY - you could use 2 halogens in series for D3D Pro, which makes 250W. I am finding this heater is very efficient - I suspect 250W will probably equal 500W of nichrome because of the better heat transfer.		We switched to a halogen bulb heater from the former nichrome version, which means you don't have to build the heater element yourself as in former versions. See https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TH2Bgi7SXSY - you could use 2 halogens in series for D3D Pro, which makes 250W. I am finding this heater is very efficient - I suspect 250W will probably equal 500W of nichrome because of the better heat transfer.
	The bed still has insulation. Halogens lay on top, not touching the metal top. Thermistor should be located away from direct heat of the halogens.		The bed still has insulation. Halogens lay on top, not touching the metal top. Thermistor should be located away from direct heat of the halogens.

Marcin: /* 8/18/21 */

2022-01-17T04:44:39Z

8/18/21

← Older revision		Revision as of 04:44, 17 January 2022
Line 1:		Line 1:
			=1/22=
			Hi Robert,
			Shipping your printer Monday - congratulations on buying the most collaborative printer in the world, and I hope we can collaborate on 3D printer lumber.
			When the package arrives- please identify this inventory of parts:

			https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipPPHi2x6R6va5pp-tQlAeJr5gcADGsaH4OShMPLUrD9CT6RabzOJvcUEnt7tNwcRA?key=eFVILWxDZHY0TURoTVQtZXM2VXNQaHZJcmttdEh3

			You will need to get M2, M2.5, M3, M6 hex keys to assemble.

			You can view the STLs and FreeCAD files downloadable at
			https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/D3D_Pro_v20.07
			All our docs on the printer are linked from this page.
			The printer has been tested extensively and burned in - and is ready to run.
			Think about it as collaborative build. I can help you effectively if you take pictures throughout the build. You are welcome to set up an account on our wiki - and start a Work Log so you can log your build there. See about work logs:

			https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/Daily_Log_of_Tasks

			For the build, main instructions are here:

			https://docs.google.com/presentation/d/1i_xDXD2abPEECNjeCk0r5WgIvJhgO_CC0n-VkQ2fEFA/edit#slide=id.g4303b70038_0_0

			But you'll probably need only the wiring instructions:
			https://docs.google.com/presentation/d/1i_xDXD2abPEECNjeCk0r5WgIvJhgO_CC0n-VkQ2fEFA/edit#slide=id.ge826c93843_0_0
			And then the startup procedures at
			https://docs.google.com/presentation/d/1JjMpcTjXlaZeWvtbxftFurFAb4n-8t94lhnh40TtrY8/edit#slide=id.ga7fa8e3d9f_0_0
			We switched to a halogen bulb heater from the former nichrome version, which means you don't have to build the heater element yourself as in former versions. See https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TH2Bgi7SXSY - you could use 2 halogens in series for D3D Pro, which makes 250W. I am finding this heater is very efficient - I suspect 250W will probably equal 500W of nichrome because of the better heat transfer.
			The bed still has insulation. Halogens lay on top, not touching the metal top. Thermistor should be located away from direct heat of the halogens.

			We do need to update the final build manual all in one place. You can help if you provide feedback on which parts need further explanation. Note that we are adding a high temp build chamber for true industrial grade printing, so the ecosystem is in active development.

			First, check you have all the parts. The above links are part of the build manual. We have 2 manuals: Build Guide, and Production Guide. The former is for builders like yourself. The latter is for people who want to produce these kits, which you are welcome to do for fun or profit. The Production Guides are started, and are found at the overall development templates at:

			https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/D3D_Pro_v20.07

			Some notes:

			OSE Linux Inside - entire software suite from FreeCAD to Cura, and Arduino Environment. But if you are on Linux, we suggest you use the old version of Cura, which is optimized if you are on Linux - download this - https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/Lulzbot_Cura_Appimage

			Kit Notes:

			The parts included get to a working printer. Once you have it - you can print all plastic parts to make more copies of the printer. There are exciting deep-level parts of the build: you can build the heat bed, and extruder - from scratch. This gives you direct experience in important parts of the printer. Nobody else builds their own extruder that I know of.

			Quality Control: If all parts are in working order - this means after you build it and do the connections - you will be able to print on your first try. If you did everything right...

			Printing - once you get set up and running - print more parts for another D3D machine and give it to a friend. Note that the exact same technology (8 mm Universal Axis) - https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/Universal_CNC_Axis - applies so you can build a printer with up to an 18" bed - our D3D Pro 3 that looks like this:

			https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/D3D_v20.04.27

			Any larger than that, you can print the parts, but you will have to use larger rods, such as 1" rods. This is described on the Universal Axis wiki page:
			https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/Universal_CNC_Axis

			Once you inventory your parts - and have the tools on hand - you are ready to build. We have tons of other documentation - just ask and I can answer any questions that you may have. Please feel free to post to the OSE Workshops FB group:

			https://www.facebook.com/groups/398759490316633/

			We are looking for others to print parts, and we'll buy them from you - so once you set up your personal microfactory - keep that in mind as an option. We publish all our enterprise blueprints such as the Production Manual, so you are free to go into enterprise as well.

			Thanks for supporting our project, happy building, and let me know if you have any questions. It will take perseverance to do this - but rest assured that if you go through to completion - you'll be amazed at what you have accomplished.

			Let me know when/if you'd like to meet and to discuss any questions - I'm here to help and I hope you learn a lot building the printer. Don't be shy about asking questions - there is so much information that one could learn with the build.

			Thanks,
			Marcin

	=8/18/21=		=8/18/21=
	Pro -		Pro -

Marcin: /* 6/21/21 - Pro */

2021-08-19T01:17:46Z

6/21/21 - Pro

← Older revision		Revision as of 01:17, 19 August 2021
Line 1:		Line 1:
			=8/18/21=
			Pro -

			When the package arrives- please identify this inventory of parts:

			_________________________________

			The checks are what's included. X marks some tools you'll have to provide. You'll want a heat gun if you have to soften parts, cordless drill and 1/8 and 1/4 inch drill bits for cleaning parts, knife for cleaning parts, soldering iron.

			You can view the STLs and FreeCAD files downloadable at
			https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/D3D_Pro_v20.07
			The printer comes in a state where you need to upload the firmware, https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/D3D_Pro_v20.07_Software

			More instructions are here - https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/3D_Printer_Manual#Software

			Think about it as collaborative build. I can help you effectively if you take pictures throughout the build. You are welcome to set up an account on our wiki - and start a Work Log so you can log your build there. See about work logs:

			https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/Daily_Log_of_Tasks

			For the build, main instructions are here:

			https://docs.google.com/presentation/d/1i_xDXD2abPEECNjeCk0r5WgIvJhgO_CC0n-VkQ2fEFA/edit#slide=id.g4303b70038_0_0

			To build the extruder -

			see https://docs.google.com/presentation/d/1aDyrewk9x52xoiSVBzS6NNVAPeHZJmwvqXuQDjlyKUY/edit#slide=id.g414d767b01_0_3

			This is the extruder we use on all machines, including Universal. You can also take a look at the Universal build manual for more hints on the axis system build - the axis system is the same on all machines, with adaptations - but the concept is always the same.

			https://docs.google.com/presentation/d/1VtukaPaT_3JcaUyZhQt-Q7Cz-bWjdQlizudmg00LbUs/edit#slide=id.g414d767b01_0_3

			More information on the heatbed is here:

			https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/120V_heater_pad#Halogen_As_Heater
			To build the Universal Controller - see this page and make sure you convert RAMPS to 24V as shown here: https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/Universal_Controller#Converting_RAMPS_to_24V
			See video at https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/Universal_Controller#Build_Video
			We switched to a halogen bulb heater from the former nichrome version, which means you don't have to build the heater element yourself as in former versions. See https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TH2Bgi7SXSY - you could use 2 halogens in series for D3D Pro, which makes 250W. I am finding this heater is very efficient - I suspect 250W will probably equal 500W of nichrome because of the better heat transfer.
			The bed still has insulation. Halogens lay on top, not touching the metal top. Thermistor should be located away from direct heat of the halogens.

			We do need to update the final build manual all in one place. You can help if you provide feedback on which parts need further explanation. Note that we are adding a high temp build chamber for true industrial grade printing, so the ecosystem is in active development.

			First, check you have all the parts. The above links are part of the build manual. We have 2 manuals: Build Guide, and Production Guide. The former is for builders like yourself. The latter is for people who want to produce these kits, which you are welcome to do for fun or profit. The Production Guides are started, and are found at the overall development templates at:

			https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/D3D_Pro_v20.07

			Some notes:

			OSE Linux Inside - entire software suite from FreeCAD to Cura, and Arduino Environment. But if you are on Linux, we suggest you use the old version of Cura, which is optimized if you are on Linux - download this - https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/Lulzbot_Cura_Appimage

			Build notes:

			1. Spray paint the frame and heater box before building - you can get a 99 cent can of black spray paint on the bottom shelf of hardware stores in their paint section.

			2. Heed the frame hints at [https://docs.google.com/presentation/d/1i_xDXD2abPEECNjeCk0r5WgIvJhgO_CC0n-VkQ2fEFA/edit#slide=id.g93f383204f_0_53] so you can get a perfect frame - there's an art to it.

			Kit Notes:

			We printed this with large nozzles - 1.2 mm - so you will see that the prints are ugly and haven't been cleaned. This is cosmetic only, though I did use new filament which doesn't appear to be as good. But we favor stronger parts over better looks. Cleaning up prints with a knife or razor is useful. So is reaming out with 3 mm, 6 mm, and 8 mm drill bits. The looks are just a cosmetic thing - they don't affect how the machine works. Just make sure all belt holes, screw holes, etc are clear as in the Build Guide. Note also that some of the green filament was crap quality, so if any of your parts break, let me know, and we can send a replacement.
			The parts included get to a working printer. There are exciting deep-level parts of the build: you build the heat bed, and extruder - from scratch. This gives you direct experience in important parts of the printer. Nobody else builds their own extruder.
			Note on the frame - use a wood block with hammer to punch the steel angle into the corners, or use a rubber mallet.
			Quality Control: If all parts are in working order - this means after you build it and do the connections - you will be able to print on your first try. If you did everything right...

			Printing - once you get set up and running - print more parts for another D3D machine and give it to a friend. Note that the exact same technology (8 mm Universal Axis) - https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/Universal_CNC_Axis - applies so you can build a printer with up to an 18" bed - our D3D Pro 3 that looks like this:

			https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/D3D_v20.04.27

			Any larger than that, you can print the parts, but you will have to use larger rods, such as 1" rods. This is described on the Universal Axis wiki page.

			Once you inventory your parts - and have the tools on hand - you are ready to build. We have tons of other documentation - just ask and I can answer any questions that you may have. Please feel free to post to the OSE Workshops FB group:

			https://www.facebook.com/groups/398759490316633/

			We are looking for others to print parts, and we'll buy them from you - so once you set up your personal microfactory - keep that in mind as an option. We publish all our enterprise blueprints such as the Production Manual, so you are free to go into enterprise as well.

			Thanks for supporting our project, happy building, and let me know if you have any questions. It will take perseverance to do this - but rest assured that if you go through to completion - you'll be amazed at what you have accomplished.

			Note also that a copy of OSE Linux v2 comes with the kit. You can use Cura and FreeCAD on it, but I would download Lulzbot Cura. Let me know when/if you'd like to meet and to discuss any questions - I'm here to help and I hope you learn a lot building the printer. Don't be shy about asking questions - there is so much information that one could learn with the build.

			Thanks,
			Marcin

	=6/21/21 - Pro=		=6/21/21 - Pro=
	Hi Emilio,		Hi Emilio,

Davidleasure at 21:21, 27 June 2021

2021-06-27T21:21:22Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 21:21, 27 June 2021
Line 81:		Line 81:

	=6/5/21 - Universal=		=6/5/21 - Universal=

	Hi David,		Hi David,
	Shipped yesterday. Sorry about the lateness- we've been flooded with applications for the OSE Apprenticeship - actually a good problem to have. And yes, I did notice that your name was twice in the shipping form, sorry about that. And if you frequent any university - please print out and hang our Apprenticeship flyer, downloadable at the top of the last link.		Shipped yesterday. Sorry about the lateness- we've been flooded with applications for the OSE Apprenticeship - actually a good problem to have. And yes, I did notice that your name was twice in the shipping form, sorry about that. And if you frequent any university - please print out and hang our Apprenticeship flyer, downloadable at the top of the last link.

	The inventory is this for 3DP parts is here - https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1OA2ZM1tbFEbF3kf0n-KD_k2eF35UTF90NZLEFf0-ML0/edit#gid=~~190401196Note~~ the 2 items crossed out.		The inventory is this for 3DP parts is here - https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1OA2ZM1tbFEbF3kf0n-KD_k2eF35UTF90NZLEFf0-ML0/edit#gid=190401196 Note the 2 items crossed out.

	We have since upgraded to halogen light heaters - no fabrication required. Since halogens are 85% heat - they make an easy, effective, fast heater. Seehttps://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/120V_heater_pad#Halogen_As_Heater That's an education in itself about the halogens - I'm wondering why nobody else is doing this because it's the most effective solution I've seen.		We have since upgraded to halogen light heaters - no fabrication required. Since halogens are 85% heat - they make an easy, effective, fast heater. Seehttps://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/120V_heater_pad#Halogen_As_Heater That's an education in itself about the halogens - I'm wondering why nobody else is doing this because it's the most effective solution I've seen.
Line 103:		Line 104:
	First, check you have all the parts. The above links are part of the build manual. We have 2 manuals: Build Guide, and Production Guide. The former is for builders like yourself. The latter is for people who want to produce these kits, which you are welcome to do for fun or profit. The Production Guides are started, and are found at the overall development templates at:https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/D3D_Pro_v20.07 https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/D3D_Universal_v20.07		First, check you have all the parts. The above links are part of the build manual. We have 2 manuals: Build Guide, and Production Guide. The former is for builders like yourself. The latter is for people who want to produce these kits, which you are welcome to do for fun or profit. The Production Guides are started, and are found at the overall development templates at:https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/D3D_Pro_v20.07 https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/D3D_Universal_v20.07

	Some notes:OSE Linux Inside - entire software suite from FreeCAD to Cura, and Arduino Environment. I recommend you download this Appimage for old Lulzbot Cura - https://forum.lulzbot.com/t/i-created-a-linux-appimage-for-cura-21-08-for-old-tazs/22506- the new Cura is just really bad for our purposes.		Some notes: OSE Linux Inside - entire software suite from FreeCAD to Cura, and Arduino Environment. I recommend you download this Appimage for old Lulzbot Cura - https://forum.lulzbot.com/t/i-created-a-linux-appimage-for-cura-21-08-for-old-tazs/22506- the new Cura is just really bad for our purposes.

	Build notes:		Build notes:

Davidleasure: mainly formatted for human reading

2021-06-27T21:17:47Z

mainly formatted for human reading

@@ Line 82: / Line 82: @@
 =6/5/21 - Universal=
 Hi David,
-Shipped yesterday. Sorry about the lateness- we've been flooded with applications for the OSE Apprenticeship - actually a good problem to have. And yes, I did notice that your name was twice in the shipping form, sorry about that. And if you frequent any university - please print out and hang our Apprenticeship flyer, downloadable at the top of the last link.The inventory is this for 3DP parts is here - https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1OA2ZM1tbFEbF3kf0n-KD_k2eF35UTF90NZLEFf0-ML0/edit#gid=190401196Note the 2 items crossed out. We have since upgraded to halogen light heaters - no fabrication required. Since halogens are 85% heat - they make an easy, effective, fast heater. Seehttps://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/120V_heater_pad#Halogen_As_HeaterThat's an education in itself about the halogens - I'm wondering why nobody else is doing this because it's the most effective solution I've seen.Do you have a soldering iron or do you want us to send you one? There will be just a few minor things to solder.I need to send you the halogen holders and endstops from Amazon - I ran out of them. Let me know if you want me to send the soldering iron as well
+Shipped yesterday. Sorry about the lateness- we've been flooded with applications for the OSE Apprenticeship - actually a good problem to have. And yes, I did notice that your name was twice in the shipping form, sorry about that. And if you frequent any university - please print out and hang our Apprenticeship flyer, downloadable at the top of the last link.
-If you wouldn't mind - please print out the inventory, and check off each item. If you can then take a picture of that, it would help me make sure that you found everything and I can address any issues later on in your build. Think about it as collaborative build. I can help you effectively if you take pictures throughout the build. You are welcome to set up an account on our wiki - and start a Work Log so you can log your build there. See about work logs:https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/Daily_Log_of_TasksFor the build, main instructions are here:https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/D3D_Universal_v20.07_Build_InstructionsI saw you have been looking at them, so you should be ahead of the game.This is the extruder we use on all machines, including Universal + Pro.
-More information on the heatbed with nichrome is here so you will appreciate why we don't build this way any more:https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/120V_Heatbed We do need to update the final build manual. You can help if you provide feedback on which parts need further explanation.
+The inventory is this for 3DP parts is here - https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1OA2ZM1tbFEbF3kf0n-KD_k2eF35UTF90NZLEFf0-ML0/edit#gid=190401196Note the 2 items crossed out.
-First, check you have all the parts. The above links are part of the build manual. We have 2 manuals: Build Guide, and Production Guide. The former is for builders like yourself. The latter is for people who want to produce these kits, which you are welcome to do for fun or profit. The Production Guides are started, and are found at the overall development templates at:https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/D3D_Pro_v20.07https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/D3D_Universal_v20.07Some notes:OSE Linux Inside - entire software suite from FreeCAD to Cura, and Arduino Environment. I recommend you download this Appimage for old Lulzbot Cura - https://forum.lulzbot.com/t/i-created-a-linux-appimage-for-cura-21-08-for-old-tazs/22506-  the new Cura is just really bad for our purposes.Build notes:   1. Spray paint the conduit if you like - you can get a 99 cent can of black spray paint on the bottom shelf of hardware stores in their paint section.2. If parts are not straight or don't fit - use a heat gun. You have to clean the parts, they are straight off the printer.3. Use a wooden base to screw in the 3D printed base. While the printer will work, it will be wobbly without a wood base. I use a 2x12 piece of lumber. Spray paint it black for the OSE look.Kit Notes:We printed this with large nozzles - 1.2 mm - so you will see that the prints are ugly and haven't been cleaned. This is cosmetic only, though I did use new filament which doesn't appear to be as good. But we favor stronger parts over better looks. Cleaning up prints with a knife or razor is useful. So is reaming out with 3 mm, 6 mm, and 8 mm drill bits. The looks are just a cosmetic thing - they don't affect how the machine works. Just make sure all belt holes, screw holes, etc are clear as in the Build Guide.  The parts included get to a working printer. There are exciting deep-level parts of the build: you build the heat bed, and extruder - from scratch. This gives you direct experience in heater element design/build, and extruder design/build.You will be able to print on your first try. If you did everything right...Printing - once you get set up and running - print more parts for another D3D machine and give it to a friend. Note that the exact same technology (8 mm Universal Axis) - https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/Universal_CNC_Axis - applies so you can build a printer with up to an 18" bed - our D3D Pro 3 that looks like this: https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/D3D_v20.04.27You can print parts for it with the Universal 2. But you'd need to break the base into parts if you wanted to print another Universal 2.Any larger than that, you can print the parts, but you will have to use larger rods, such as 1" rods. This is described on the Universal Axis wiki page.Once you inventory your parts - and have the tools on hand - you are ready to build. We have tons of other documentation - just ask and I can answer any questions that you may have.  Please feel free to post to the OSE Workshops FB group:https://www.facebook.com/groups/398759490316633/We are looking for others to print parts, and we'll buy them from you - so once you set up your personal microfactory - keep that in mind as an option. We publish all our enterprise blueprints such as the Production Manual, so you are free to go into enterprise as well.Thanks for supporting our project, happy building, and let me know if you have any questions. It will take perseverance to do this - but rest assured that if you go through to completion - you'll be amazed at what you have accomplished.Note also that a copy of OSE Linux v2 comes with the kit. Let me know when/if you'd like to meet and to discuss any questions - I'm here to help.Thanks, Marcin
 =3/26/21=

Marcin: /* 6/5/21 - Universal */

2021-06-22T20:28:14Z

6/5/21 - Universal

← Older revision		Revision as of 20:28, 22 June 2021
Line 1:		Line 1:
			=6/21/21 - Pro=
			Hi Emilio,
			Please find your tracking number, just shared with you.

			When the package arrives- please identify this inventory of printed parts:
			https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1okayrxF-uVJiSDgpTKp-yPTPYMZDgEwuufDb-oHJ9xQ/edit#gid=1610216226

			You can view the STLs by importing into FreeCAD or view p5. in the manual.
			The printer comes in a state where you need to upload the firmware, https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/D3D_Pro_v20.07_Software
			More instructions are here - https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/3D_Printer_Manual#Software
			The inventory is this for parts -

			https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1OA2ZM1tbFEbF3kf0n-KD_k2eF35UTF90NZLEFf0-ML0/edit#gid=190401196


			Think about it as collaborative build. I can help you effectively if you take pictures throughout the build. You are welcome to set up an account on our wiki - and start a Work Log so you can log your build there. See about work logs:

			https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/Daily_Log_of_Tasks

			For the build, main instructions are here:

			https://docs.google.com/presentation/d/1i_xDXD2abPEECNjeCk0r5WgIvJhgO_CC0n-VkQ2fEFA/edit#slide=id.g4303b70038_0_0

			To build the extruder -

			see https://docs.google.com/presentation/d/1aDyrewk9x52xoiSVBzS6NNVAPeHZJmwvqXuQDjlyKUY/edit#slide=id.g414d767b01_0_3

			This is the extruder we use on all machines, including Universal. You can also take a look at the Universal build manual for more hints on the axis system build - the axis system is the same on all machines, with adaptations - but the concept is always the same.

			https://docs.google.com/presentation/d/1VtukaPaT_3JcaUyZhQt-Q7Cz-bWjdQlizudmg00LbUs/edit#slide=id.g414d767b01_0_3

			More information on the heatbed is here:

			https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/120V_heater_pad#Halogen_As_Heater

			We switched to a halogen bulb heater from the former nichrome version, which means you don't have to build the heater element yourself as in former versions. See https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TH2Bgi7SXSY - you could use 2 halogens in series for D3D Pro, which makes 250W. I am finding this heater is very efficient - I suspect 250W will probably equal 500W of nichrome because of the better heat transfer.

			The heatbed is the same concept as the Universal - steel shell, filler, + nichrome wire - so you can use the Universal guide for additional support material.

			We do need to update the final build manual all in one place. You can help if you provide feedback on which parts need further explanation. Note that we are adding a high temp build chamber for true industrial grade printing, so the ecosystem is in active development.

			First, check you have all the parts. The above links are part of the build manual. We have 2 manuals: Build Guide, and Production Guide. The former is for builders like yourself. The latter is for people who want to produce these kits, which you are welcome to do for fun or profit. The Production Guides are started, and are found at the overall development templates at:

			https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/D3D_Pro_v20.07

			Some notes:

			OSE Linux Inside - entire software suite from FreeCAD to Cura, and Arduino Environment. But if you are on Linux, we suggest you use the old version of Cura, which is optimized if you are on Linux - download this - https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/Lulzbot_Cura_Appimage

			Build notes:

			1. Spray paint the frame and heater box before building - you can get a 99 cent can of black spray paint on the bottom shelf of hardware stores in their paint section.

			2. Heed the frame hints at [https://docs.google.com/presentation/d/1i_xDXD2abPEECNjeCk0r5WgIvJhgO_CC0n-VkQ2fEFA/edit#slide=id.g93f383204f_0_53] so you can get a perfect frame - there's an art to it.

			Kit Notes:

			We printed this with large nozzles - 1.2 mm - so you will see that the prints are ugly and haven't been cleaned. This is cosmetic only, though I did use new filament which doesn't appear to be as good. But we favor stronger parts over better looks. Cleaning up prints with a knife or razor is useful. So is reaming out with 3 mm, 6 mm, and 8 mm drill bits. The looks are just a cosmetic thing - they don't affect how the machine works. Just make sure all belt holes, screw holes, etc are clear as in the Build Guide. Note also that some of the green filament was crap quality, so if any of your parts break, let me know, and we can send a replacement.
			The parts included get to a working printer. There are exciting deep-level parts of the build: you build the heat bed, and extruder - from scratch. This gives you direct experience in important parts of the printer. Nobody else builds their own extruder.
			Note on the frame - use a wood block with hammer to punch the steel angle into the corners, or use a rubber mallet.
			Quality Control: If all parts are in working order - this means after you build it and do the connections - you will be able to print on your first try. If you did everything right...

			Printing - once you get set up and running - print more parts for another D3D machine and give it to a friend. Note that the exact same technology (8 mm Universal Axis) - https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/Universal_CNC_Axis - applies so you can build a printer with up to an 18" bed - our D3D Pro 3 that looks like this:

			https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/D3D_v20.04.27

			Any larger than that, you can print the parts, but you will have to use larger rods, such as 1" rods. This is described on the Universal Axis wiki page.

			Once you inventory your parts - and have the tools on hand - you are ready to build. We have tons of other documentation - just ask and I can answer any questions that you may have. Please feel free to post to the OSE Workshops FB group:

			https://www.facebook.com/groups/398759490316633/

			We are looking for others to print parts, and we'll buy them from you - so once you set up your personal microfactory - keep that in mind as an option. We publish all our enterprise blueprints such as the Production Manual, so you are free to go into enterprise as well.

			Thanks for supporting our project, happy building, and let me know if you have any questions. It will take perseverance to do this - but rest assured that if you go through to completion - you'll be amazed at what you have accomplished.

			Note also that a copy of OSE Linux v2 comes with the kit. You can use Cura and FreeCAD on it, but I would download Lulzbot Cura. Let me know when/if you'd like to meet and to discuss any questions - I'm here to help and I hope you learn a lot building the printer. Don't be shy about asking questions - there is so much information that one could learn with the build.

			Thanks,
			Marcin

	=6/5/21 - Universal=		=6/5/21 - Universal=
	Hi David,		Hi David,

Marcin: /* 6/5/21 - Universal */

2021-06-05T21:37:45Z

6/5/21 - Universal

← Older revision		Revision as of 21:37, 5 June 2021
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	=6/5/21 - Universal=		=6/5/21 - Universal=
			Hi David,
			Shipped yesterday. Sorry about the lateness- we've been flooded with applications for the OSE Apprenticeship - actually a good problem to have. And yes, I did notice that your name was twice in the shipping form, sorry about that. And if you frequent any university - please print out and hang our Apprenticeship flyer, downloadable at the top of the last link.The inventory is this for 3DP parts is here - https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1OA2ZM1tbFEbF3kf0n-KD_k2eF35UTF90NZLEFf0-ML0/edit#gid=190401196Note the 2 items crossed out. We have since upgraded to halogen light heaters - no fabrication required. Since halogens are 85% heat - they make an easy, effective, fast heater. Seehttps://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/120V_heater_pad#Halogen_As_HeaterThat's an education in itself about the halogens - I'm wondering why nobody else is doing this because it's the most effective solution I've seen.Do you have a soldering iron or do you want us to send you one? There will be just a few minor things to solder.I need to send you the halogen holders and endstops from Amazon - I ran out of them. Let me know if you want me to send the soldering iron as well
			If you wouldn't mind - please print out the inventory, and check off each item. If you can then take a picture of that, it would help me make sure that you found everything and I can address any issues later on in your build. Think about it as collaborative build. I can help you effectively if you take pictures throughout the build. You are welcome to set up an account on our wiki - and start a Work Log so you can log your build there. See about work logs:https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/Daily_Log_of_TasksFor the build, main instructions are here:https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/D3D_Universal_v20.07_Build_InstructionsI saw you have been looking at them, so you should be ahead of the game.This is the extruder we use on all machines, including Universal + Pro.
			More information on the heatbed with nichrome is here so you will appreciate why we don't build this way any more:https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/120V_Heatbed We do need to update the final build manual. You can help if you provide feedback on which parts need further explanation.
			First, check you have all the parts. The above links are part of the build manual. We have 2 manuals: Build Guide, and Production Guide. The former is for builders like yourself. The latter is for people who want to produce these kits, which you are welcome to do for fun or profit. The Production Guides are started, and are found at the overall development templates at:https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/D3D_Pro_v20.07https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/D3D_Universal_v20.07Some notes:OSE Linux Inside - entire software suite from FreeCAD to Cura, and Arduino Environment. I recommend you download this Appimage for old Lulzbot Cura - https://forum.lulzbot.com/t/i-created-a-linux-appimage-for-cura-21-08-for-old-tazs/22506- the new Cura is just really bad for our purposes.Build notes: 1. Spray paint the conduit if you like - you can get a 99 cent can of black spray paint on the bottom shelf of hardware stores in their paint section.2. If parts are not straight or don't fit - use a heat gun. You have to clean the parts, they are straight off the printer.3. Use a wooden base to screw in the 3D printed base. While the printer will work, it will be wobbly without a wood base. I use a 2x12 piece of lumber. Spray paint it black for the OSE look.Kit Notes:We printed this with large nozzles - 1.2 mm - so you will see that the prints are ugly and haven't been cleaned. This is cosmetic only, though I did use new filament which doesn't appear to be as good. But we favor stronger parts over better looks. Cleaning up prints with a knife or razor is useful. So is reaming out with 3 mm, 6 mm, and 8 mm drill bits. The looks are just a cosmetic thing - they don't affect how the machine works. Just make sure all belt holes, screw holes, etc are clear as in the Build Guide. The parts included get to a working printer. There are exciting deep-level parts of the build: you build the heat bed, and extruder - from scratch. This gives you direct experience in heater element design/build, and extruder design/build.You will be able to print on your first try. If you did everything right...Printing - once you get set up and running - print more parts for another D3D machine and give it to a friend. Note that the exact same technology (8 mm Universal Axis) - https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/Universal_CNC_Axis - applies so you can build a printer with up to an 18" bed - our D3D Pro 3 that looks like this: https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/D3D_v20.04.27You can print parts for it with the Universal 2. But you'd need to break the base into parts if you wanted to print another Universal 2.Any larger than that, you can print the parts, but you will have to use larger rods, such as 1" rods. This is described on the Universal Axis wiki page.Once you inventory your parts - and have the tools on hand - you are ready to build. We have tons of other documentation - just ask and I can answer any questions that you may have. Please feel free to post to the OSE Workshops FB group:https://www.facebook.com/groups/398759490316633/We are looking for others to print parts, and we'll buy them from you - so once you set up your personal microfactory - keep that in mind as an option. We publish all our enterprise blueprints such as the Production Manual, so you are free to go into enterprise as well.Thanks for supporting our project, happy building, and let me know if you have any questions. It will take perseverance to do this - but rest assured that if you go through to completion - you'll be amazed at what you have accomplished.Note also that a copy of OSE Linux v2 comes with the kit. Let me know when/if you'd like to meet and to discuss any questions - I'm here to help.Thanks, Marcin

	=3/26/21=		=3/26/21=

Marcin: /* 3/26/21 */

2021-06-05T21:16:21Z

3/26/21

← Older revision		Revision as of 21:16, 5 June 2021
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			=6/5/21 - Universal=

	=3/26/21=		=3/26/21=
	You should have received your printer. It has an SD card inside, with a sample print file that you should print as your first test print. It's a tall columnar rectangle of 1 cm side. The controller and all electronics have been tested and work. The software is already installed on the controller.		You should have received your printer. It has an SD card inside, with a sample print file that you should print as your first test print. It's a tall columnar rectangle of 1 cm side. The controller and all electronics have been tested and work. The software is already installed on the controller.

Marcin at 21:20, 26 March 2021

2021-03-26T21:20:34Z

@@ Line 1: / Line 1: @@
 =Pro 3/21=
 You should have received your printer. It has an SD card inside, with a sample print file that you should print as your first test print. It's a tall columnar rectangle of 1 cm side. The controller and all electronics have been tested and work. The software is already installed on the controller.
@@ Line 19: / Line 97: @@
 see https://docs.google.com/presentation/d/1aDyrewk9x52xoiSVBzS6NNVAPeHZJmwvqXuQDjlyKUY/edit#slide=id.g414d767b01_0_3
-This is the extruder we use on all machines, inclusing Universal. You can also take a look at the Universal build manual for more hints on the axis system build - the axis system is the same on all machines, with adaptations - but the concept is always the same.
+This is the extruder we use on all machines, including Universal. You can also take a look at the Universal build manual for more hints on the axis system build - the axis system is the same on all machines, with adaptations - but the concept is always the same.
 https://docs.google.com/presentation/d/1VtukaPaT_3JcaUyZhQt-Q7Cz-bWjdQlizudmg00LbUs/edit#slide=id.g414d767b01_0_3
@@ Line 28: / Line 106: @@
 The heatbed is the same concept as the Universal - steel shell, filler, + nichrome wire - so you can use the Universal guide for additional support material.
 We do need to update the final build manual all in one place. You can help if you provide feedback on which parts need further explanation. Note that we are adding a high temp build chamber for true industrial grade printing, so the ecosystem is in active development.