Colten Jackson Log - Revision history

Kunda: Added {{RightTOC}} and Category:Logs

2016-12-03T14:56:25Z

Added {{RightTOC}} and Category:Logs

← Older revision		Revision as of 14:56, 3 December 2016
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			{{RightTOC}}
	[[Category:Logs]]		[[Category:Logs]]

	=2014 April 21=		=2014 April 21=
	==Cura Configs==		==Cura Configs==

Marcin at 01:15, 24 January 2016

2016-01-24T01:15:45Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 01:15, 24 January 2016
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			[[Category:Logs]]

	=2014 April 21=		=2014 April 21=
	==Cura Configs==		==Cura Configs==

Greg Buckland: /* April 21 */

2014-06-10T02:08:03Z

April 21

← Older revision		Revision as of 02:08, 10 June 2014
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	=April 21=		=2014 April 21=
	==Cura Configs==		==Cura Configs==
	Returned to FabLab in Illinois, checked the Cura config I was using with our TAZ printer here. I'm getting good quality prints		Returned to FabLab in Illinois, checked the Cura config I was using with our TAZ printer here. I'm getting good quality prints

	=April 19=		=April 19=

Colten Jackson at 23:10, 21 April 2014

2014-04-21T23:10:19Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 23:10, 21 April 2014
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			=April 21=
			==Cura Configs==
			Returned to FabLab in Illinois, checked the Cura config I was using with our TAZ printer here. I'm getting good quality prints

	=April 19=		=April 19=
	==3D Printer Maintenance==		==3D Printer Maintenance==

Colten Jackson: /* 3D Printer Maintenance */

2014-04-21T01:10:22Z

3D Printer Maintenance

← Older revision		Revision as of 01:10, 21 April 2014
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	Came back to OSE and heard that the printers weren't performing. Prints were cutting out half way through, just sort of inexplicable print failures. Hooked up my laptop with pronterface, discovered that with the printers connected via the USB hub I could control each independently with different instances of pronterface (i.e. clicking pronterface.exe a few times to open 3 different windows, connected each one to a different port, COM10,COM11,COM12 in my case).		Came back to OSE and heard that the printers weren't performing. Prints were cutting out half way through, just sort of inexplicable print failures. Hooked up my laptop with pronterface, discovered that with the printers connected via the USB hub I could control each independently with different instances of pronterface (i.e. clicking pronterface.exe a few times to open 3 different windows, connected each one to a different port, COM10,COM11,COM12 in my case).

	Had a hell of a time getting the beds leveled - this is a huge point of failure! You can spend all day having trouble getting the first layer to stick if you don't take the time to level the bed and triple checking it - because when you change the height of one corner it changes the whole bed, so you have to go around a couple of times to each corner until you don't have to adjust it anymore. Boy would I love to do an auto-leveling mod! There'a a few out there, here's [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dNqr_FqxrYs one], [http://www.matterhackers.com/news/automatic-printer-calibration-update two], [http://forum.lulzbot.com/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=166 three] sources of info. I have a TAZ to tinker with back in Urbana, so maybe I can test these and get experience with them before coming out to do an upgrade here. There's some pretty clever, cheap solutions to the problem of spending 20 minutes double checking the level before getting a successful print.		Had a hell of a time getting the beds leveled - this is a huge point of failure! You can spend all day having trouble getting the first layer to stick if you don't take the time to level the bed and triple checking it - because when you change the height of one corner it changes the whole bed, so you have to go around a couple of times to each corner until you don't have to adjust it anymore. Boy would I love to do an auto-leveling mod! There'a a few out there, here's [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dNqr_FqxrYs one], [http://www.matterhackers.com/news/automatic-printer-calibration-update two], [http://forum.lulzbot.com/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=166 three] sources of info. I have a TAZ to tinker with back in Urbana, so maybe I can test these and get experience with them before coming out to do an upgrade here. There's some pretty clever, cheap solutions to the problem of spending 20 minutes double checking the level before getting a successful print. Aiden linked me to [http://forum.lulzbot.com/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=201 this one], which looks super easy.

	<gallery>		<gallery>

Colten Jackson at 16:54, 20 April 2014

2014-04-20T16:54:27Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 16:54, 20 April 2014
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	* Used painters tape (any tape will do) to attach one end of the filament to the spool. I guess there's a hole for it, but I personally think tape is a little easier to switch & less likely to kink the plastic when it gets near the end.		* Used painters tape (any tape will do) to attach one end of the filament to the spool. I guess there's a hole for it, but I personally think tape is a little easier to switch & less likely to kink the plastic when it gets near the end.
	* Went around the table collecting tools and putting them back in their homes. There really needs to be a better organization system! May I recommend magnetic knife blocks? Tweezers and alan wrenches stick to those really well, and it can be up in the middle of the office, easy to put things back where they belong & see all your tools at once.		* Went around the table collecting tools and putting them back in their homes. There really needs to be a better organization system! May I recommend magnetic knife blocks? Tweezers and alan wrenches stick to those really well, and it can be up in the middle of the office, easy to put things back where they belong & see all your tools at once.

	==Printer Testing==		==Printer Testing==

	~~Downloaded~~ the Lulzbot test code to rule out problems with my slicing (was still using an experimental Cura profile - I don't like Slic3r!). For reference: [[Media:AO101TestPrint.gcode \| Octopus gCode for AO-101]], [[Media:octopus.gcode \| Octopus gCode for TAZ & Hydra]] (Opens as plain text, right click -> Save As... to download)		In the evening, I downloaded the Lulzbot test code to rule out problems with my slicing (was still using an experimental Cura profile - I don't like Slic3r!). For reference: [[Media:AO101TestPrint.gcode \| Octopus gCode for AO-101]], [[Media:octopus.gcode \| Octopus gCode for TAZ & Hydra]] (Opens as plain text, right click -> Save As... to download)

			This came out great on the AO-101 - a really nice printer that shouldn't be ignored just cause it's a little smaller and less impressive than the big guys. It's equipped with a .5mm nozzle - so it can lay down a load of plastic! Andrew's GoPro case was an estimated 90 minute print with a .35mm nozzle & .22mm layer height. With a .5mm nozzle, you can do .4mm layer height (Really thick layers!) - estimated print time: 30 minutes! The drawback to that nozzle width? Supports do not break off so easily, the walls are a good deal thicker. I guess Andrew was going to take a dremel to his print, but wanted to find a way where he didn't have to do post processing. We'll try it printing on a TAZ with a .35mm nozzle and see if the supports come off more cleanly.

			I got a decent first layer adhesion on the Hydra after leveling the build plate and adjusting the Z endstop, but I wanted to turn it off since people were getting to bed. I'm still experiencing this really wonky hiccup that occurs when I slice with Cura & print with pronterface: occasionally (not a reproducable error, very frustrating) the the first thing the printer does after returning to home & moving to center is reversing / retracting (spitting out!) the filament several centimeters but then going on with the print - so there's no plastic coming out of the nozzle at first! I've ran into this before but still haven't figured out why it happens. Still researching slicer / printer combinations.

			[http://www.mattercontrol.com/ Matter Control] looks very promising, but I couldn't get it to connect to any of the printers last night. I'll try again.
			Cura can control the print as well, but doesn't have the option to preheat, which is kind of a bummer.


	=March 13=		=March 13=

Colten Jackson: /* Printer Testing */

2014-04-20T16:43:53Z

Printer Testing

← Older revision		Revision as of 16:43, 20 April 2014
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	==Printer Testing==		==Printer Testing==

	Downloaded the Lulzbot test code to rule out problems with my slicing (was still using an experimental Cura profile - I don't like Slic3r!). For reference: [[Media:AO101TestPrint.gcode \| Octopus gCode for AO-101]], [[~~File~~:octopus.gcode \| Octopus gCode for TAZ & Hydra]]		Downloaded the Lulzbot test code to rule out problems with my slicing (was still using an experimental Cura profile - I don't like Slic3r!). For reference: [[Media:AO101TestPrint.gcode \| Octopus gCode for AO-101]], [[Media:octopus.gcode \| Octopus gCode for TAZ & Hydra]] (Opens as plain text, right click -> Save As... to download)

	=March 13=		=March 13=

Colten Jackson at 16:43, 20 April 2014

2014-04-20T16:43:09Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 16:43, 20 April 2014
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	=April 19=		=April 19=
	==~~Debugging~~ 3D ~~Printers~~==		==3D Printer Maintenance==
	Came back to OSE and heard that the printers weren't performing. Prints were cutting out half way through, just sort of inexplicable print failures. Hooked up my laptop with pronterface, discovered that with the printers connected via the USB hub I could control each independently with different instances of pronterface (i.e. clicking pronterface.exe a few times to open 3 different windows, connected each one to a different port, COM10,COM11,COM12 in my case).		Came back to OSE and heard that the printers weren't performing. Prints were cutting out half way through, just sort of inexplicable print failures. Hooked up my laptop with pronterface, discovered that with the printers connected via the USB hub I could control each independently with different instances of pronterface (i.e. clicking pronterface.exe a few times to open 3 different windows, connected each one to a different port, COM10,COM11,COM12 in my case).

Line 22:		Line 22:
	* Used painters tape (any tape will do) to attach one end of the filament to the spool. I guess there's a hole for it, but I personally think tape is a little easier to switch & less likely to kink the plastic when it gets near the end.		* Used painters tape (any tape will do) to attach one end of the filament to the spool. I guess there's a hole for it, but I personally think tape is a little easier to switch & less likely to kink the plastic when it gets near the end.
	* Went around the table collecting tools and putting them back in their homes. There really needs to be a better organization system! May I recommend magnetic knife blocks? Tweezers and alan wrenches stick to those really well, and it can be up in the middle of the office, easy to put things back where they belong & see all your tools at once.		* Went around the table collecting tools and putting them back in their homes. There really needs to be a better organization system! May I recommend magnetic knife blocks? Tweezers and alan wrenches stick to those really well, and it can be up in the middle of the office, easy to put things back where they belong & see all your tools at once.
			==Printer Testing==

	Downloaded the Lulzbot test code to rule out problems with my slicing (was still using an experimental Cura profile - I don't like Slic3r!). For reference: Octopus gCode for AO-101 Octopus gCode for TAZ & Hydra		Downloaded the Lulzbot test code to rule out problems with my slicing (was still using an experimental Cura profile - I don't like Slic3r!). For reference: [[Media:AO101TestPrint.gcode \| Octopus gCode for AO-101]], [[File:octopus.gcode \| Octopus gCode for TAZ & Hydra]]

	=March 13=		=March 13=

Colten Jackson: /* Debugging 3D Printers */

2014-04-20T16:38:37Z

Debugging 3D Printers

← Older revision		Revision as of 16:38, 20 April 2014
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	* Used painters tape (any tape will do) to attach one end of the filament to the spool. I guess there's a hole for it, but I personally think tape is a little easier to switch & less likely to kink the plastic when it gets near the end.		* Used painters tape (any tape will do) to attach one end of the filament to the spool. I guess there's a hole for it, but I personally think tape is a little easier to switch & less likely to kink the plastic when it gets near the end.
	* Went around the table collecting tools and putting them back in their homes. There really needs to be a better organization system! May I recommend magnetic knife blocks? Tweezers and alan wrenches stick to those really well, and it can be up in the middle of the office, easy to put things back where they belong & see all your tools at once.		* Went around the table collecting tools and putting them back in their homes. There really needs to be a better organization system! May I recommend magnetic knife blocks? Tweezers and alan wrenches stick to those really well, and it can be up in the middle of the office, easy to put things back where they belong & see all your tools at once.

			Downloaded the Lulzbot test code to rule out problems with my slicing (was still using an experimental Cura profile - I don't like Slic3r!). For reference: Octopus gCode for AO-101 Octopus gCode for TAZ & Hydra

	=March 13=		=March 13=

Colten Jackson: /* Debugging 3D Printers */

2014-04-20T16:34:20Z

Debugging 3D Printers

← Older revision		Revision as of 16:34, 20 April 2014
Line 3:		Line 3:
	Came back to OSE and heard that the printers weren't performing. Prints were cutting out half way through, just sort of inexplicable print failures. Hooked up my laptop with pronterface, discovered that with the printers connected via the USB hub I could control each independently with different instances of pronterface (i.e. clicking pronterface.exe a few times to open 3 different windows, connected each one to a different port, COM10,COM11,COM12 in my case).		Came back to OSE and heard that the printers weren't performing. Prints were cutting out half way through, just sort of inexplicable print failures. Hooked up my laptop with pronterface, discovered that with the printers connected via the USB hub I could control each independently with different instances of pronterface (i.e. clicking pronterface.exe a few times to open 3 different windows, connected each one to a different port, COM10,COM11,COM12 in my case).

	Had a hell of a time getting the beds leveled - this is a huge point of failure! You can spend all day having trouble getting the first layer to stick if you don't take the time to level the bed and triple checking it - because when you change the height of one corner it changes the whole bed, so you have to go around a couple of times to each corner until you don't have to adjust it anymore. Boy would I love to do an auto-leveling mod! There'a a few out there, here's [~~https~~://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dNqr_FqxrYs one], [~~https~~://www.matterhackers.com/news/automatic-printer-calibration-update two], [http://forum.lulzbot.com/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=166 three] sources of info. I have a TAZ to tinker with back in Urbana, so maybe I can test these and get experience with them before coming out to do an upgrade here. There's some pretty clever, cheap solutions to the problem of spending 20 minutes double checking the level before getting a successful print.		Had a hell of a time getting the beds leveled - this is a huge point of failure! You can spend all day having trouble getting the first layer to stick if you don't take the time to level the bed and triple checking it - because when you change the height of one corner it changes the whole bed, so you have to go around a couple of times to each corner until you don't have to adjust it anymore. Boy would I love to do an auto-leveling mod! There'a a few out there, here's [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dNqr_FqxrYs one], [http://www.matterhackers.com/news/automatic-printer-calibration-update two], [http://forum.lulzbot.com/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=166 three] sources of info. I have a TAZ to tinker with back in Urbana, so maybe I can test these and get experience with them before coming out to do an upgrade here. There's some pretty clever, cheap solutions to the problem of spending 20 minutes double checking the level before getting a successful print.

	<gallery>		<gallery>