D3D Pro v23.12 Data Collection - Revision history

Alexa at 07:14, 15 August 2024

2024-08-15T07:14:20Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 07:14, 15 August 2024
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	** Y damp = 0.30		** Y damp = 0.30
	* I designed a new control panel that is larger and has more holes to be more part agnostic. I am also working on an electrical box for all of the electronics and wiring to keep a clean look and prevent possible shorts and shocks.		* I designed a new control panel that is larger and has more holes to be more part agnostic. I am also working on an electrical box for all of the electronics and wiring to keep a clean look and prevent possible shorts and shocks.
			* The z axis stepper motors MUST be wired in series and not in parallel. The motors I am using in this build use 1.3 amps and 3.9 volts. I am powering the ramps board with a 24 volt 4 amp power supply.

	=Sat June 22, 2024=		=Sat June 22, 2024=

Alexa: Update what I have done since previous work

2024-08-15T05:54:09Z

Update what I have done since previous work

← Older revision		Revision as of 05:54, 15 August 2024
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	=Link to Photo Album=		=Link to Photo Album=
	*Print log - notebook notes [https://photos.app.goo.gl/LnU1T7qW8MeoRAC49]		*Print log - notebook notes [https://photos.app.goo.gl/LnU1T7qW8MeoRAC49]

			=Thu Aug 15, 2024=
			Issues that have been solved since last update:
			* The filament stripping issue has been resolved - the concern was NOT the assembly of the hotend. The resolution was turning down the voltage of the extruder stepper motor as it was overheating. The overheating stepper motor was causing the heatsink to heat up to a temperature that softened PLA filament too early. That was causing a clog, which resulted in stripped filament as the most obvious side effect.
			* With the first physical build of the D3D Pro there was not enough length on the X axis to fully probe the 300mmx300mm (11.8"x11.8") bed. There was about 25mm/1" of bed area that the Z probe (the induction sensor) could not reach. This was resolved by rebuilding the frame with longer rebar and axes with longer rods and belts. The remaining parts will be used in future builds of smaller printer.
			* During the rebuild mentioned above, the rod lengths were all standardized to 600mm/23.6" to reduce the amount of cuts and keep the axes as identical as possible.
			* The rebar members of the frame are all now 450mm/17.7".
			* Input shaping was tuned on the machine with the following results:
			** X freq = 40.5mm \| 25.25Hz
			** Y freq = 34.0mm \| 17Hz
			** X damp = 0.35
			** Y damp = 0.30
			* I designed a new control panel that is larger and has more holes to be more part agnostic. I am also working on an electrical box for all of the electronics and wiring to keep a clean look and prevent possible shorts and shocks.

Marcin at 04:42, 11 July 2024

2024-07-11T04:42:17Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 04:42, 11 July 2024
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	{{RightTOC}}		{{RightTOC}}
	=Link to Photo Album=		=Link to Photo Album=
	[https://photos.app.goo.gl/LnU1T7qW8MeoRAC49]		*Print log - notebook notes [https://photos.app.goo.gl/LnU1T7qW8MeoRAC49]

Alexa at 03:30, 11 July 2024

2024-07-11T03:30:07Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 03:30, 11 July 2024
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			{{RightTOC}}
			=Link to Photo Album=
			[https://photos.app.goo.gl/LnU1T7qW8MeoRAC49]


	=Sat June 22, 2024=		=Sat June 22, 2024=
	Current issues:		Current issues:

Alexa at 20:14, 22 June 2024

2024-06-22T20:14:01Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 20:14, 22 June 2024
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	# Improperly assembled hotend leading to friction in the filament path. Potential solution - reassemble the hotend, ensuring that there is NO space between the heatbreak and nozzle. If filament gets in between the heatbreak and nozzle it will result in clogs which lead to filament stripping.		# Improperly assembled hotend leading to friction in the filament path. Potential solution - reassemble the hotend, ensuring that there is NO space between the heatbreak and nozzle. If filament gets in between the heatbreak and nozzle it will result in clogs which lead to filament stripping.
	# Heat creep in the hotend leading to clogs. Potential solution - Ensure the hotend cooling fan is blowing away from the printer to draw the heat away instead of creating static pressure that holds the heat in place. Use thermal paste to increase the heat conductivity between the heatsink block and fins/(Mk 7/Mk 8 heatsink).		# Heat creep in the hotend leading to clogs. Potential solution - Ensure the hotend cooling fan is blowing away from the printer to draw the heat away instead of creating static pressure that holds the heat in place. Use thermal paste to increase the heat conductivity between the heatsink block and fins/(Mk 7/Mk 8 heatsink).
	# Actually look at the pictures of previous builds to determine how the hotend is assembled... I just realized that I made a mistake in assembly that is likely leading to the issues I have been dealing with this entire time... I screwed the heatbreak in incorrectly by making the top hole flush with the top of the heatsink aluminum block and screwing the short nut on at the bottom of the aluminum block. This is likely what was causing my issue. See here for a picture of what the correct assembly looks like: [[File:Universalgearless.png \| Picture]]		# Actually look at the pictures of previous builds to determine how the hotend is assembled... I just realized that I made a mistake in assembly that is likely leading to the issues I have been dealing with this entire time... I screwed the heatbreak in incorrectly by making the top hole flush with the top of the heatsink aluminum block and screwing the short nut on at the bottom of the aluminum block. This is likely what was causing my issue. See here for a picture of what the correct assembly looks like: [[:File:Universalgearless.png \| Picture]]

	The printer needs the following changes/upgrades for the sake of improving consistency in printing:		The printer needs the following changes/upgrades for the sake of improving consistency in printing:

Alexa at 20:13, 22 June 2024

2024-06-22T20:13:10Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 20:13, 22 June 2024
Line 6:		Line 6:
	# Improperly assembled hotend leading to friction in the filament path. Potential solution - reassemble the hotend, ensuring that there is NO space between the heatbreak and nozzle. If filament gets in between the heatbreak and nozzle it will result in clogs which lead to filament stripping.		# Improperly assembled hotend leading to friction in the filament path. Potential solution - reassemble the hotend, ensuring that there is NO space between the heatbreak and nozzle. If filament gets in between the heatbreak and nozzle it will result in clogs which lead to filament stripping.
	# Heat creep in the hotend leading to clogs. Potential solution - Ensure the hotend cooling fan is blowing away from the printer to draw the heat away instead of creating static pressure that holds the heat in place. Use thermal paste to increase the heat conductivity between the heatsink block and fins/(Mk 7/Mk 8 heatsink).		# Heat creep in the hotend leading to clogs. Potential solution - Ensure the hotend cooling fan is blowing away from the printer to draw the heat away instead of creating static pressure that holds the heat in place. Use thermal paste to increase the heat conductivity between the heatsink block and fins/(Mk 7/Mk 8 heatsink).
	# Actually look at the pictures of previous builds to determine how the hotend is assembled... I just realized that I made a mistake in assembly that is likely leading to the issues I have been dealing with this entire time... I screwed the heatbreak in incorrectly by making the top hole flush with the top of the heatsink aluminum block and screwing the short nut on at the bottom of the aluminum block. This is likely what was causing my issue. See here for a picture of what the correct assembly looks like: [[~~Picture \|~~ File:Universalgearless.png]]		# Actually look at the pictures of previous builds to determine how the hotend is assembled... I just realized that I made a mistake in assembly that is likely leading to the issues I have been dealing with this entire time... I screwed the heatbreak in incorrectly by making the top hole flush with the top of the heatsink aluminum block and screwing the short nut on at the bottom of the aluminum block. This is likely what was causing my issue. See here for a picture of what the correct assembly looks like: [[File:Universalgearless.png \| Picture]]

	The printer needs the following changes/upgrades for the sake of improving consistency in printing:		The printer needs the following changes/upgrades for the sake of improving consistency in printing:

Alexa at 20:12, 22 June 2024

2024-06-22T20:12:51Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 20:12, 22 June 2024
Line 6:		Line 6:
	# Improperly assembled hotend leading to friction in the filament path. Potential solution - reassemble the hotend, ensuring that there is NO space between the heatbreak and nozzle. If filament gets in between the heatbreak and nozzle it will result in clogs which lead to filament stripping.		# Improperly assembled hotend leading to friction in the filament path. Potential solution - reassemble the hotend, ensuring that there is NO space between the heatbreak and nozzle. If filament gets in between the heatbreak and nozzle it will result in clogs which lead to filament stripping.
	# Heat creep in the hotend leading to clogs. Potential solution - Ensure the hotend cooling fan is blowing away from the printer to draw the heat away instead of creating static pressure that holds the heat in place. Use thermal paste to increase the heat conductivity between the heatsink block and fins/(Mk 7/Mk 8 heatsink).		# Heat creep in the hotend leading to clogs. Potential solution - Ensure the hotend cooling fan is blowing away from the printer to draw the heat away instead of creating static pressure that holds the heat in place. Use thermal paste to increase the heat conductivity between the heatsink block and fins/(Mk 7/Mk 8 heatsink).
	# Actually look at the pictures of previous builds to determine how the hotend is assembled... I just realized that I made a mistake in assembly that is likely leading to the issues I have been dealing with this entire time... I screwed the heatbreak in incorrectly by making the top hole flush with the top of the heatsink aluminum block and screwing the short nut on at the bottom of the aluminum block. This is likely what was causing my issue. See here for a picture of what the correct assembly looks like: [[File:Universalgearless.png]]		# Actually look at the pictures of previous builds to determine how the hotend is assembled... I just realized that I made a mistake in assembly that is likely leading to the issues I have been dealing with this entire time... I screwed the heatbreak in incorrectly by making the top hole flush with the top of the heatsink aluminum block and screwing the short nut on at the bottom of the aluminum block. This is likely what was causing my issue. See here for a picture of what the correct assembly looks like: [[Picture \| File:Universalgearless.png]]

	The printer needs the following changes/upgrades for the sake of improving consistency in printing:		The printer needs the following changes/upgrades for the sake of improving consistency in printing:

Alexa at 20:12, 22 June 2024

2024-06-22T20:12:30Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 20:12, 22 June 2024
Line 6:		Line 6:
	# Improperly assembled hotend leading to friction in the filament path. Potential solution - reassemble the hotend, ensuring that there is NO space between the heatbreak and nozzle. If filament gets in between the heatbreak and nozzle it will result in clogs which lead to filament stripping.		# Improperly assembled hotend leading to friction in the filament path. Potential solution - reassemble the hotend, ensuring that there is NO space between the heatbreak and nozzle. If filament gets in between the heatbreak and nozzle it will result in clogs which lead to filament stripping.
	# Heat creep in the hotend leading to clogs. Potential solution - Ensure the hotend cooling fan is blowing away from the printer to draw the heat away instead of creating static pressure that holds the heat in place. Use thermal paste to increase the heat conductivity between the heatsink block and fins/(Mk 7/Mk 8 heatsink).		# Heat creep in the hotend leading to clogs. Potential solution - Ensure the hotend cooling fan is blowing away from the printer to draw the heat away instead of creating static pressure that holds the heat in place. Use thermal paste to increase the heat conductivity between the heatsink block and fins/(Mk 7/Mk 8 heatsink).
	# Actually look at the pictures of previous builds to determine how the hotend is assembled... I just realized that I made a mistake in assembly that is likely leading to the issues I have been dealing with this entire time... I screwed the heatbreak in incorrectly by making the top hole flush with the top of the heatsink aluminum block and screwing the short nut on at the bottom of the aluminum block. This is likely what was causing my issue. See here for a picture of what the correct assembly looks like: [File:Universalgearless.png]		# Actually look at the pictures of previous builds to determine how the hotend is assembled... I just realized that I made a mistake in assembly that is likely leading to the issues I have been dealing with this entire time... I screwed the heatbreak in incorrectly by making the top hole flush with the top of the heatsink aluminum block and screwing the short nut on at the bottom of the aluminum block. This is likely what was causing my issue. See here for a picture of what the correct assembly looks like: [[File:Universalgearless.png]]

	The printer needs the following changes/upgrades for the sake of improving consistency in printing:		The printer needs the following changes/upgrades for the sake of improving consistency in printing:

Alexa: /* Sat June 22, 2024 */

2024-06-22T20:12:17Z

Sat June 22, 2024

← Older revision		Revision as of 20:12, 22 June 2024
Line 6:		Line 6:
	# Improperly assembled hotend leading to friction in the filament path. Potential solution - reassemble the hotend, ensuring that there is NO space between the heatbreak and nozzle. If filament gets in between the heatbreak and nozzle it will result in clogs which lead to filament stripping.		# Improperly assembled hotend leading to friction in the filament path. Potential solution - reassemble the hotend, ensuring that there is NO space between the heatbreak and nozzle. If filament gets in between the heatbreak and nozzle it will result in clogs which lead to filament stripping.
	# Heat creep in the hotend leading to clogs. Potential solution - Ensure the hotend cooling fan is blowing away from the printer to draw the heat away instead of creating static pressure that holds the heat in place. Use thermal paste to increase the heat conductivity between the heatsink block and fins/(Mk 7/Mk 8 heatsink).		# Heat creep in the hotend leading to clogs. Potential solution - Ensure the hotend cooling fan is blowing away from the printer to draw the heat away instead of creating static pressure that holds the heat in place. Use thermal paste to increase the heat conductivity between the heatsink block and fins/(Mk 7/Mk 8 heatsink).
			# Actually look at the pictures of previous builds to determine how the hotend is assembled... I just realized that I made a mistake in assembly that is likely leading to the issues I have been dealing with this entire time... I screwed the heatbreak in incorrectly by making the top hole flush with the top of the heatsink aluminum block and screwing the short nut on at the bottom of the aluminum block. This is likely what was causing my issue. See here for a picture of what the correct assembly looks like: [File:Universalgearless.png]

	The printer needs the following changes/upgrades for the sake of improving consistency in printing:		The printer needs the following changes/upgrades for the sake of improving consistency in printing:
Line 23:		Line 24:
	* Do no have the axis attached to the rebar clamps when aligning the Z axes' rebar clamps on the frame. It overcomplicates the process.		* Do no have the axis attached to the rebar clamps when aligning the Z axes' rebar clamps on the frame. It overcomplicates the process.
	* Use a jig or measuring tape to ensure that there is consistent placement for the rebar clamps. If the clamps are misaligned they will cause problems with Z travel.		* Use a jig or measuring tape to ensure that there is consistent placement for the rebar clamps. If the clamps are misaligned they will cause problems with Z travel.
	*		*


	=Mon May 20, 2024=		=Mon May 20, 2024=

Alexa at 20:03, 22 June 2024

2024-06-22T20:03:21Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 20:03, 22 June 2024
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	=Sat June 22, 2024=		=Sat June 22, 2024=
			Current issues:
			* The filament is still stripping very frequently. This has a few potential causes and solutions:
			# Too much tension on the tensioner arm of the extruder. Potential solution - loosen the screw that holds the tensioner arm in place to reduce the pressure on the filament.
			# Misaligned drive gear. Potential solution - remove tensioner arm and spring, realign the drive gear to be directly above the heatbreak opening.
			# Improperly assembled hotend leading to friction in the filament path. Potential solution - reassemble the hotend, ensuring that there is NO space between the heatbreak and nozzle. If filament gets in between the heatbreak and nozzle it will result in clogs which lead to filament stripping.
			# Heat creep in the hotend leading to clogs. Potential solution - Ensure the hotend cooling fan is blowing away from the printer to draw the heat away instead of creating static pressure that holds the heat in place. Use thermal paste to increase the heat conductivity between the heatsink block and fins/(Mk 7/Mk 8 heatsink).

	The printer needs the following changes/upgrades for the sake of improving consistency in printing:		The printer needs the following changes/upgrades for the sake of improving consistency in printing:
	* Y2 Axis max position endstop. This will ensure that the axis is square without skipping the belts at Y max.		* Y2 Axis max position endstop. This will ensure that the axis is square without skipping the belts at Y max.
	* Galvanized rods should be used in place of plain steel rods due to corrosion. Galvanized will align more with the principle of lifetime design.		* Galvanized rods should be used in place of plain steel rods due to corrosion. Galvanized will align more with the principle of lifetime design.
	* The bed should have four long nuts welded to the top plate vs the single nut called for in the current design. Having four nuts creates more stability in the bed.		* The bed should have four long nuts welded to the top plate vs the single nut called for in the current design. Having four nuts creates more stability in the bed.


	Work notes:		Work notes:
Line 14:		Line 20:
	* Test the strength of the welds by using an impact driver to screw a screw all of the way into the long nut. If it's too weak it will break then, which is better than breaking when it's in the hands of the end user.		* Test the strength of the welds by using an impact driver to screw a screw all of the way into the long nut. If it's too weak it will break then, which is better than breaking when it's in the hands of the end user.
	* If the screws you're using are too long for the long nuts in the bed, add a few regular nuts to the screw for spacing. Washers could also be used, but why add new unique parts to the machine if not necessary?		* If the screws you're using are too long for the long nuts in the bed, add a few regular nuts to the screw for spacing. Washers could also be used, but why add new unique parts to the machine if not necessary?
			* When assembling the Universal Axis, use at least four set screws to secure the rods on the motor side. Two can be too little holding force.
			* Do no have the axis attached to the rebar clamps when aligning the Z axes' rebar clamps on the frame. It overcomplicates the process.
			* Use a jig or measuring tape to ensure that there is consistent placement for the rebar clamps. If the clamps are misaligned they will cause problems with Z travel.
			*


	=Mon May 20, 2024=		=Mon May 20, 2024=