D3D v18.07 Data Collection - Revision history

Marcin at 18:55, 4 August 2018

2018-08-04T18:55:03Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 18:55, 4 August 2018
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	*Do not overtightnen the idler bolt - as that pinches down on the idler and makes motion difficult. This is an issue with 8 mm rods, but it was not an issue with 5/16" rods - as outer part of idler piece bottoms out on clamping, not allowing the center to pinch in. When larger rods are used, the center can pinch in more.		*Do not overtightnen the idler bolt - as that pinches down on the idler and makes motion difficult. This is an issue with 8 mm rods, but it was not an issue with 5/16" rods - as outer part of idler piece bottoms out on clamping, not allowing the center to pinch in. When larger rods are used, the center can pinch in more.
	*On minimum setting with cordless drill - back away by hand using an allen wrench - 1/2 turn back away		*On minimum setting with cordless drill - back away by hand using an allen wrench - 1/2 turn back away


	=Benchmarking=		=Benchmarking=
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	*I noticed the LCD is 60/60 and 218/218 for temperatures - whereas the Cura output goes down to 217 and 59 about half the time.		*I noticed the LCD is 60/60 and 218/218 for temperatures - whereas the Cura output goes down to 217 and 59 about half the time.
	<html><iframe src="https://www.facebook.com/plugins/post.php?href=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.facebook.com%2Fmarcin.jakubowski.378%2Fposts%2F10214068019511684&width=500" width="500" height="651" style="border:none;overflow:hidden" scrolling="no" frameborder="0" allowTransparency="true" allow="encrypted-media"></iframe></html>		<html><iframe src="https://www.facebook.com/plugins/post.php?href=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.facebook.com%2Fmarcin.jakubowski.378%2Fposts%2F10214068019511684&width=500" width="500" height="651" style="border:none;overflow:hidden" scrolling="no" frameborder="0" allowTransparency="true" allow="encrypted-media"></iframe></html>

			=Extruder Failure Modes=
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Marcin: /* Axis Motion */

2018-07-23T15:51:56Z

Axis Motion

← Older revision		Revision as of 15:51, 23 July 2018
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	=Axis Motion=		=Axis Motion=
	*Do not overtightnen the idler bolt - as that pinches down on the idler and makes motion difficult		*Do not overtightnen the idler bolt - as that pinches down on the idler and makes motion difficult. This is an issue with 8 mm rods, but it was not an issue with 5/16" rods - as outer part of idler piece bottoms out on clamping, not allowing the center to pinch in. When larger rods are used, the center can pinch in more.
	*On minimum setting with cordless drill - back away by hand using an allen wrench - 1/2 turn back away		*On minimum setting with cordless drill - back away by hand using an allen wrench - 1/2 turn back away

Marcin: /* Benchmarking */

2018-07-23T15:27:12Z

Benchmarking

← Older revision		Revision as of 15:27, 23 July 2018
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			=Axis Motion=
			*Do not overtightnen the idler bolt - as that pinches down on the idler and makes motion difficult
			*On minimum setting with cordless drill - back away by hand using an allen wrench - 1/2 turn back away

	=Benchmarking=		=Benchmarking=
	==Comparison between Jellybox and D3D==		==Comparison between Jellybox and D3D==

Marcin: /* Extruder Heat Sink Fan */

2018-07-22T21:27:30Z

Extruder Heat Sink Fan

← Older revision		Revision as of 21:27, 22 July 2018
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	*When wired properly, the blue label should be facing inside. This may vary for different fans - so check the fan blowing direction with red wire to positive.		*When wired properly, the blue label should be facing inside. This may vary for different fans - so check the fan blowing direction with red wire to positive.

			=Hot End=
			Note teflon tube:

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	=Running=		=Running=

Marcin: /* Homing */

2018-07-17T17:50:25Z

Homing

← Older revision		Revision as of 17:50, 17 July 2018
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	*The extruder heat sink fan should be blowing INTO the heat sink fan.		*The extruder heat sink fan should be blowing INTO the heat sink fan.
	*When wired properly, the blue label should be facing inside. This may vary for different fans - so check the fan blowing direction with red wire to positive.		*When wired properly, the blue label should be facing inside. This may vary for different fans - so check the fan blowing direction with red wire to positive.


			=Running=
			5/16" rods should be replaced with 8 mm rods. Banding occurs - see comments in post.

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	< y_max: open		< y_max: open
	< z_min: TRIGGERED		< z_min: TRIGGERED
	*Issue - Z probe - I have LJ18A3-8-Z/BY-5V. Is BX recommended? What is the difference? ~~[https://www.ebay.com/itm/LJ18A3-8-Z-~~BX-DC-6-36V-NPN-3-wire-8mm-Inductive-Proximity-Sensor-Switch-Detector-/271664656457?hash=item3f4079b049]. See [http://www.instructables.com/id/Enable-Auto-Leveling-for-your-3D-Printer-Marlin-Fi/ Instructables article].		*Issue - Z probe - I have LJ18A3-8-Z/BY-5V. Is BX recommended? What is the difference? BY vs BX appears to be Inverting vs non-inverting.
	*Switching the power pins does not allow probe to ~~trigger. Green is the outermost connection~~ - ~~that is assumed signal, middle is ground, red is power. I reversed ground and power~~
	*In configuration.h, I set #define Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP_INVERTING from false to true. ~~No change in behavior - it is normally closed, not normally open~~
	*Trying #define Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true - changing it to false. <span style="color:red"> '''It worked.''' </span>		*Trying #define Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true - changing it to false. <span style="color:red"> '''It worked.''' </span>
	*I left Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP_INVERTING at falso - so I changed only 1 thing.		*I left Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP_INVERTING at falso - so I changed only 1 thing.

Marcin: /* Temperature Reporting */

2018-07-17T17:17:56Z

Temperature Reporting

← Older revision		Revision as of 17:17, 17 July 2018
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	*2 initial prints had a temperature error in the first half of a print, running at 200%. Don't know why - suspecting inductance effects on cabling.		*2 initial prints had a temperature error in the first half of a print, running at 200%. Don't know why - suspecting inductance effects on cabling.
	*I noticed the LCD is 60/60 and 218/218 for temperatures - whereas the Cura output goes down to 217 and 59 about half the time.		*I noticed the LCD is 60/60 and 218/218 for temperatures - whereas the Cura output goes down to 217 and 59 about half the time.
			<html><iframe src="https://www.facebook.com/plugins/post.php?href=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.facebook.com%2Fmarcin.jakubowski.378%2Fposts%2F10214068019511684&width=500" width="500" height="651" style="border:none;overflow:hidden" scrolling="no" frameborder="0" allowTransparency="true" allow="encrypted-media"></iframe></html>

Marcin: /* Homing */

2018-07-17T17:13:38Z

Homing

← Older revision		Revision as of 17:13, 17 July 2018
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	*Trying #define Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true - changing it to false. <span style="color:red"> '''It worked.''' </span>		*Trying #define Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true - changing it to false. <span style="color:red"> '''It worked.''' </span>
	*I left Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP_INVERTING at falso - so I changed only 1 thing.		*I left Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP_INVERTING at falso - so I changed only 1 thing.

			=Temperature Reporting=
			*2 initial prints had a temperature error in the first half of a print, running at 200%. Don't know why - suspecting inductance effects on cabling.
			*I noticed the LCD is 60/60 and 218/218 for temperatures - whereas the Cura output goes down to 217 and 59 about half the time.

Marcin: /* Comparison between Jellybox and D3D */

2018-07-17T17:10:38Z

Comparison between Jellybox and D3D

← Older revision		Revision as of 17:10, 17 July 2018
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	=Benchmarking=		=Benchmarking=
	==Comparison between Jellybox and D3D==		==Comparison between Jellybox and D3D==
	See print quality; currently using 5/16 rods in D3D. Need to switch to 8 mm to get better print quality.		See print quality; currently using 5/16 rods in D3D. Need to switch to 8 mm to get better print quality. Grey is D3D.

	<html><iframe src="https://www.facebook.com/plugins/post.php?href=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.facebook.com%2Fmarcin.jakubowski.378%2Fposts%2F10214067945869843&width=500" width="500" height="502" style="border:none;overflow:hidden" scrolling="no" frameborder="0" allowTransparency="true" allow="encrypted-media"></iframe>		<html><iframe src="https://www.facebook.com/plugins/post.php?href=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.facebook.com%2Fmarcin.jakubowski.378%2Fposts%2F10214067945869843&width=500" width="500" height="502" style="border:none;overflow:hidden" scrolling="no" frameborder="0" allowTransparency="true" allow="encrypted-media"></iframe>

Marcin at 17:09, 17 July 2018

2018-07-17T17:09:04Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 17:09, 17 July 2018
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	=Benchmarking=		=Benchmarking=
			==Comparison between Jellybox and D3D==
			See print quality; currently using 5/16 rods in D3D. Need to switch to 8 mm to get better print quality.

			<html><iframe src="https://www.facebook.com/plugins/post.php?href=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.facebook.com%2Fmarcin.jakubowski.378%2Fposts%2F10214067945869843&width=500" width="500" height="502" style="border:none;overflow:hidden" scrolling="no" frameborder="0" allowTransparency="true" allow="encrypted-media"></iframe>
			</html>

	==Jellybox==		==Jellybox==
	D3D here is benchmarked against [[Jellybox]] because Jellybox is the leading printer for education workshops, and its print speed is impressive due to the light platform weight. D3D should be able to exceed print speed for large objects, but not for small object (Jellybox may be better at inertial effects for small objects due to its low platform weight whenever objects are not tall and wobbly). Data:		D3D here is benchmarked against [[Jellybox]] because Jellybox is the leading printer for education workshops, and its print speed is impressive due to the light platform weight. D3D should be able to exceed print speed for large objects, but not for small object (Jellybox may be better at inertial effects for small objects due to its low platform weight whenever objects are not tall and wobbly). Data:

Marcin: /* Homing */

2018-07-15T00:41:15Z

Homing

← Older revision		Revision as of 00:41, 15 July 2018
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	#See clone - https://unixb0y.github.io/blog/		#See clone - https://unixb0y.github.io/blog/
	#While Prusa i3 MK3 claims to be open source, I cannot find any hardware files on Github or elsewhere, outside of the 3D printed parts.		#While Prusa i3 MK3 claims to be open source, I cannot find any hardware files on Github or elsewhere, outside of the 3D printed parts.

			=Extruder Heat Sink Fan=
			*The extruder heat sink fan should be blowing INTO the heat sink fan.
			*When wired properly, the blue label should be facing inside. This may vary for different fans - so check the fan blowing direction with red wire to positive.


	=Homing=		=Homing=