Elijah - Revision history

Marcin: /* Even More */

2020-10-12T20:25:33Z

Even More

← Older revision		Revision as of 20:25, 12 October 2020
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	- What kind of SAWP tape should we use? I'm sort of imagining something like Self-Adhesive Waterproof Flashing that we use on windows. But I'm not sure if that's the right stuff.		- What kind of SAWP tape should we use? I'm sort of imagining something like Self-Adhesive Waterproof Flashing that we use on windows. But I'm not sure if that's the right stuff.

	Correct, that is what I had in mind (similar to self-adhered window flashing). This is a product we've specified before: https://gcpat.com/en/solutions/products/vycor-weather-barrier-flashing-tapes/vycor-pro		Correct, that is what I had in mind (similar to self-adhered window flashing). This is a product we've specified before: '''https://gcpat.com/en/solutions/products/vycor-weather-barrier-flashing-tapes/vycor-pro'''

	- Will the SAWP tape work on rough sawn panels? I'm pretty sure the butyl-based window flashing stuff will stick to anything... But what do you think?		- Will the SAWP tape work on rough sawn panels? I'm pretty sure the butyl-based window flashing stuff will stick to anything... But what do you think?

	So I would recommend going with Butyl rather than an asphaltic flashing. Butyl is more expensive, but it has much better temperature ranges, and sticks to just about everything. The Vycor product linked above says it can bond to plywood and OSB - so I would imagine the rough sawn panels should work as well. There also are primers that you can use for especially tricky substrates.		So I would recommend going with Butyl rather than an asphaltic flashing. Butyl is more expensive, but it has much better temperature ranges, and sticks to just about everything. The Vycor product linked above says it can bond to plywood and OSB - so I would imagine the rough sawn panels should work as well. There also are primers that you can use for especially tricky substrates.

Marcin: /* Even More */

2020-10-12T20:24:11Z

Even More

← Older revision		Revision as of 20:24, 12 October 2020
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	The T&G was nice aesthetics and a little water protection, but I don't think it's a make or break item. As for the structural board, I am not convinced such a short member would actually do much structurally. However, this is another question for the structural engineer. (I emailed a handful of structural engineers earlier this week. I'll let you know if I hear anything good back from them).		The T&G was nice aesthetics and a little water protection, but I don't think it's a make or break item. As for the structural board, I am not convinced such a short member would actually do much structurally. However, this is another question for the structural engineer. (I emailed a handful of structural engineers earlier this week. I'll let you know if I hear anything good back from them).

	- What kind of SAWP tape should we use? I'm sort of imagining something like Self-Adhesive Waterproof Flashing that we use on windows. But I'm not sure if that's the right stuff.		- What kind of SAWP tape should we use? I'm sort of imagining something like Self-Adhesive Waterproof Flashing that we use on windows. But I'm not sure if that's the right stuff.

	Correct, that is what I had in mind (similar to self-adhered window flashing). This is a product we've specified before: https://gcpat.com/en/solutions/products/vycor-weather-barrier-flashing-tapes/vycor-pro		Correct, that is what I had in mind (similar to self-adhered window flashing). This is a product we've specified before: https://gcpat.com/en/solutions/products/vycor-weather-barrier-flashing-tapes/vycor-pro

	- Will the SAWP tape work on rough sawn panels? I'm pretty sure the butyl-based window flashing stuff will stick to anything... But what do you think?		- Will the SAWP tape work on rough sawn panels? I'm pretty sure the butyl-based window flashing stuff will stick to anything... But what do you think?

	So I would recommend going with Butyl rather than an asphaltic flashing. Butyl is more expensive, but it has much better temperature ranges, and sticks to just about everything. The Vycor product linked above says it can bond to plywood and OSB - so I would imagine the rough sawn panels should work as well. There also are primers that you can use for especially tricky substrates.		So I would recommend going with Butyl rather than an asphaltic flashing. Butyl is more expensive, but it has much better temperature ranges, and sticks to just about everything. The Vycor product linked above says it can bond to plywood and OSB - so I would imagine the rough sawn panels should work as well. There also are primers that you can use for especially tricky substrates.

Marcin: /* And More */

2020-10-12T20:23:50Z

And More

← Older revision		Revision as of 20:23, 12 October 2020
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	Marcin + Catarina		Marcin + Catarina

			==Even More==

			I do think it can work. A few comments/reservations:

			-I think a strip of house wrap tape on the interior side is some cheap insurance

			-The through wall flashing

			- Is it ok that our panels are not tongue and groove (as long as we connect/lap them with a structural board)?

			The T&G was nice aesthetics and a little water protection, but I don't think it's a make or break item. As for the structural board, I am not convinced such a short member would actually do much structurally. However, this is another question for the structural engineer. (I emailed a handful of structural engineers earlier this week. I'll let you know if I hear anything good back from them).

			- What kind of SAWP tape should we use? I'm sort of imagining something like Self-Adhesive Waterproof Flashing that we use on windows. But I'm not sure if that's the right stuff.

			Correct, that is what I had in mind (similar to self-adhered window flashing). This is a product we've specified before: https://gcpat.com/en/solutions/products/vycor-weather-barrier-flashing-tapes/vycor-pro

			- Will the SAWP tape work on rough sawn panels? I'm pretty sure the butyl-based window flashing stuff will stick to anything... But what do you think?
			So I would recommend going with Butyl rather than an asphaltic flashing. Butyl is more expensive, but it has much better temperature ranges, and sticks to just about everything. The Vycor product linked above says it can bond to plywood and OSB - so I would imagine the rough sawn panels should work as well. There also are primers that you can use for especially tricky substrates.

Marcin: /* More */

2020-10-12T20:22:46Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 20:22, 12 October 2020
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	Thanks,		Thanks,
	Elijah		Elijah

			==And More==

			Hi Elijah,

			After more debate, we are leaning towards going with your option 1 and modifying it a bit like this on pages 3-5:

			https://docs.google.com/presentation/d/1zKOMjNU4qP_xndJ1r5LLmJLNujjfy8LPEyflKgELZWM/edit#slide=id.g9b07ca9ea2_3_0

			The main differences are:
			- We can't actually use tongue and groove (or shiplap), so the panels would just sit side by side
			- We'd cover the seam between the panels with SAWP tape - and then cover the tape with a (ripped plywood) board (a spin on board and batten finish)
			- We would add another top plate because the plywood is not connecting adjacent panels.

			So, we wanted to ask you:

			- What do you think? Can this work?
			- Is it ok that our panels are not tongue and groove (as long as we connect/lap them with a structural board)?
			- What kind of SAWP tape should we use? I'm sort of imagining something like Self-Adhesive Waterproof Flashing that we use on windows. But I'm not sure if that's the right stuff.
			- Will the SAWP tape work on rough sawn panels? I'm pretty sure the butyl-based window flashing stuff will stick to anything... But what do you think?

			Thank you so much for all your help, you've been a rock star!

			Marcin + Catarina

Marcin: /* Q&A */

2020-10-12T20:22:24Z

Q&A

← Older revision		Revision as of 20:22, 12 October 2020
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	---Unfortunately, no guarantees. Plans with an architect's or engineer's stamp still have to go through the same plancheck process as everyone else.		---Unfortunately, no guarantees. Plans with an architect's or engineer's stamp still have to go through the same plancheck process as everyone else.

			'''Yes, it would, but this may potentially be a fall-back solution if the other ways can't pass.

			---One area you may want to consider this (applying the exterior sheathing afterwards) is at the corners. You typically want to wrap the corners much more than 6". I think most housewrap manufacturers recommend 36". You could do this pretty easily, if you were willing to leave the exterior panels off 4 panels (one at each corner).

			'''I like that. Are you suggesting that the same housewrap/taping rules are not operative, and different rules apply?

			---That is exactly the argument you could make. Rather than not quite meet the typical housewrap requirements -- acknowledge you are doing something very different but doing it very well.

			'''Right. Is this separate from the actual permitting - ie - an engineer would still have to stamp it?

			--- My concern here is that whatever a building department approves, you obviously still want to make sure it works well and long term. While there are some building departments that can drill down, there are others that basically check that your fees are paid and wave you through. Testing would just be for your own benefit, it would not really affect the permit process.

			'''Right. So I think the answer is that it will be tricky. In that case, is there a bulletproof solution - such as getting some engineer to sign off in order to trump any argument from building officials? And what would the associated cost be?

			--Building officials give engineer's and architect's plenty of hassel too. I don't think you are necessarily going to achieve a universal bulletproof solution. I think more realistically you get a preferred solution that works in 95% of cases but then have a few alternative options for troublesome jurisdictions.

			'''Option 1 - does that qualify for the 6" overlap of WRB?

			--- I think it's probably better than a 6" overlap, but I doubt most code officials have seen anything like it. All of these versions I show come with the risk that a building department just won't buy it. If you cant get a more straight forward code compliant option to work, I think this gasket route is a strong option. But for instance, if you can get that double sided tape to work on your overlap option, that seems like the winner.

			'''Also, in our original idea we were going to screw the 2x6s of adjacent panels together. Still the lack of the stabilization of the sheathing between panels - that really calls for the overlap solution.

			--- With the top double plate tying things together, I wonder how much value you'd get from bolting the panels together or adding that 2x4 connector. This is a question for a structural engineer though. Any luck ever finding an interested structural engineer?

			'''But once again - is there a bulletproof solution - and at what cost? Is there something we can get engineering that trumps building officials?

			--Again, everything is unfortunately up to the interpretation of the authority having jurisdiction. But if you can meet the letter of the code, the likelihood of running into trouble seems slim.

			==More==

			Marcin,

			As for structural engineers, I can ask a couple of people, I remember talking to a few, without any luck, after we first spoke a few years ago. I have a couple of other engineers that I know now. Just need to find an inventive outside the box thinker...with a structural engineering degree.

			Waterproofing really falls into an architect's court. There are some agencies that specialize in "building science" (https://www.buildingscience.com/) and then there are waterproofing consultants (http://d7consulting.com/) that architects occasionally hire -- but typically for very complicated situations. They tend to be on the pricey side, but maybe you can charm some free advice out of them. I also saw you have a handful of architects among your advisors. Any practicing architect should have an idea or two about flashing and waterproofing.

			I think your overall plan for a stamped set is good. I do think the liability issue will be a hurdle, but I would imagine some legal CYA language could be added to alleviate this. I will do some asking around to structural engineers though!

			Thanks,
			Elijah

Marcin: /* Q&A */

2020-10-12T20:20:46Z

Q&A

← Older revision		Revision as of 20:20, 12 October 2020
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	--- Unfortunately it really varies by jurisdiction. Some building officials are super helpful, some are less so. Some may want you to submit plans before they will get into details with you.		--- Unfortunately it really varies by jurisdiction. Some building officials are super helpful, some are less so. Some may want you to submit plans before they will get into details with you.

			'''Hmm, interesting. Once again, how do we verify for sure that this would pass? Can an engineer/architect certify this as part of the permit package?

			---Unfortunately, no guarantees. Plans with an architect's or engineer's stamp still have to go through the same plancheck process as everyone else.

Marcin: /* September 2020 */

2020-10-12T20:20:33Z

September 2020

← Older revision		Revision as of 20:20, 12 October 2020
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	Thanks,		Thanks,
	Elijah		Elijah

			==Q&A==
			'''What if we use double-sided tap stuck on to the underlying panel?'''

			--- If you can physically do this, this is probably the most straightforward solution. I was just imagining you needing to drop the panels down over the anchor bolts -- making taping that side awfully hard. But if you can get double sided tape on that side (tilt the panels in, or slot holes perpendicular to the foundation?)...I think this is a winner. Less complicated and it would be hard to say that it doesn't meet code.

			'''Hmmm, maybe we need to go to Tyvek. But how do we find out exactly if we will pass? Does this mean talking to building officials in specific locations? Do they typically take that type of question, or do they brush you away and tell you to bring an architect/engineer stamp?'''

			--- Unfortunately it really varies by jurisdiction. Some building officials are super helpful, some are less so. Some may want you to submit plans before they will get into details with you.

Marcin at 20:19, 12 October 2020

2020-10-12T20:19:30Z

@@ Line 1: / Line 1: @@
 Converesation with Elijah Pearce, architect.
@@ Line 7: / Line 9: @@
 *[[Katrina Cottage]] - https://www.mariannecusato.com/. Full set of docs for construction. Set of plans is step 1.
 *But - '''regulatory''' - and the general contractor part of the enterprise. She delivered something for a contractor, not a person.

Marcin at 22:06, 11 October 2020

2020-10-11T22:06:15Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 22:06, 11 October 2020
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			Converesation with Elijah Pearce, architect.

	*Sears house - that was legit		*Sears house - that was legit
	*Microhouses - can't sell that for money afterwards		*Microhouses - can't sell that for money afterwards

Marcin at 00:15, 3 October 2020

2020-10-03T00:15:08Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 00:15, 3 October 2020
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	*Selling this after you are done - that is a serious proposition.		*Selling this after you are done - that is a serious proposition.
	*So going legit is a big deal.		*So going legit is a big deal.
	*Katrina Cottage - https://www.mariannecusato.com/. Full set of docs for construction. Set of plans is step 1.		*[[Katrina Cottage]] - https://www.mariannecusato.com/. Full set of docs for construction. Set of plans is step 1.
	*But - '''regulatory''' - and the general contractor part of the enterprise. She delivered something for a contractor, not a person.		*But - '''regulatory''' - and the general contractor part of the enterprise. She delivered something for a contractor, not a person.