UELVE MBC/v0.1 - Revision history

Lkcl: /* Alternative technique */

2023-03-06T11:42:55Z

Alternative technique

← Older revision		Revision as of 11:42, 6 March 2023
Line 314:		Line 314:
	The only major issues to watch out for are:		The only major issues to watch out for are:

	* alignment of all M10 Bolts and associated ''single'' 304 tube		* alignment of all M10 Bolts and associated ''single'' 304 tube.
	* not to overtighten. When two 304 tubes are used they cannot compress.		* not to overtighten. When two 304 tubes are used they cannot compress.
	* overtightening risks stressing the frame as the bolt head is embedded in it.		* overtightening risks stressing the frame as the bolt head is embedded in it.
	* if the bolt is ever stripped or damaged it is a severe repair problem.		* if the bolt is ever stripped or damaged it is a severe repair problem.
	* the bolts '''must''' all point in the direction that the assemblies are to be affixed (by sliding all bolts into all tubes, simultaneously). one bolt pointing even at two degrees off-kilter could mean that the bolt simply cannot be assembled ''or even disassembed''.		* the bolts '''must''' all point in the direction that the assemblies are to be affixed (by sliding all bolts into all tubes, simultaneously). remember that whatever assembly is being attached must slide cleanly in one and only one direction, thus '''all''' bolts must align in that direction. one bolt pointing even at two degrees off-kilter could mean that the bolt simply cannot be assembled ''or even disassembed''.
	* If resin drips onto the threads during wrapping the bolt has to be repaired in-situ, it cannot be removed.		* If resin drips onto the threads during wrapping the bolt has to be repaired in-situ, it cannot be removed.

	Although the embedding of an M10 bolt into the roof at the top corner of the doorframe saves on resources and weight it is highly risky: great care should be taken. Covering exposed portions of the bolt with masking tape and insertion of thin cardboard between sections during wrapping should be considered.		Although the embedding of an M10 bolt into the roof at the top corner of the doorframe saves on resources and weight it is highly risky: great care should be taken. Covering exposed portions of the bolt with masking tape, the inside of the stainless tubes as well, and insertion of thin cardboard between sections during wrapping or gluing should be considered.

	= Panels Phase =		= Panels Phase =

Lkcl: /* Assembly */

2023-03-04T17:52:11Z

Assembly

← Older revision		Revision as of 17:52, 4 March 2023
Line 367:		Line 367:
	* '''Only do hotgluing and foam in well-ventilated conditions. Both give off fumes'''.		* '''Only do hotgluing and foam in well-ventilated conditions. Both give off fumes'''.
	* Wear suitable clothing and lay down protective disposable mats/cloth/sheet: the mess the foam makes is horrendous. Hotglue also "strings" in quite beautiful but annoying "spider" strands, so dress appropriately.		* Wear suitable clothing and lay down protective disposable mats/cloth/sheet: the mess the foam makes is horrendous. Hotglue also "strings" in quite beautiful but annoying "spider" strands, so dress appropriately.
	* At suitable locations affix 90 degree brackets to the frame (drill, screw). Near each Node and in the middle of long pipes is best. The flat edge of each bracket is to be encased inside the panel, therefore the brackets need to be attached pointing outwards from the frame.		* At suitable locations affix 90 degree brackets to the frame (drill, screw or attach a second bracket and use bolts). Near each Node and in the middle of long pipes is best. The flat edge of each bracket is to be encased inside the panel, therefore the brackets need to be attached pointing outwards from the frame.
	* ~~Cover~~ the brackets (and the ~~frame) with black non-woven polyester cloth~~, in ~~the size~~ of the ~~panel, but slightly larger~~ (~~around 4-5 cm~~)~~. If necessary cut and patch together in sections~~.		* Ensure that the brackets and screws/nuts/bolts are accessible! It is no good putting the panel together if it cannot be removed! At some point repairs or replacement are needed.
	* Begin laying down and hot-gluing bamboo, starting from a Node, working along pipes, bending over other pipes, until reaching another final Node for the edge of the panel. Lattice holes vary but a rough guide would be 150 mm.		* Ensure that at least three bamboo strips are affixed directly to each bracket, triangulating in three dimensions. Turn one section of bamboo on its side so as to prevent rotation of the bracket (and the frame edge to whch it is attached).
			* Begin laying down and hot-gluing bamboo, starting from a Node, working along pipes, bending over other pipes, until reaching another final Node for the edge of the panel. Lattice holes vary but a very rough guide would be between 50 and 150 mm.
	* Try not to hotglue the polyester cloth to the lattice until each subsection (within a Frame Triangle, usually) is completed. The goal here is not to have to remove the 90 degree brackets, and to create the entire panel "in-situ"		* Try not to hotglue the polyester cloth to the lattice until each subsection (within a Frame Triangle, usually) is completed. The goal here is not to have to remove the 90 degree brackets, and to create the entire panel "in-situ"
	* ~~Lay~~ down four interlocking layers: two latitudinally, two longitudinally. Leave holes (vertically) except when each 300 mm bamboo strip runs out: then use a short section to glue and extend. Cutting short strips and hotgluing them inside takes considerable time, and also stops foam from expanding easily across the panel lattice. The foam will fill the gap.		* For square panels lay down four interlocking layers: two latitudinally, two longitudinally. Leave holes (vertically) except when each 300 mm bamboo strip runs out: then use a short section to glue and extend. Alternatively a line of hotglue onto Masking tape pressed and wrapped roud the two ends can be quite effective.
	* Once confident with the panel trellis shape, epoxy the brackets onto the bamboo with as much epoxy as you dare. Preferably you should have arranged the bamboo trellis to "cross" right where each bracket is. Ensure that the bracket is really firmly epoxied, encasing it is best. Do not mess about.		* Cutting short strips and hotgluing them inside takes considerable time, and also stops foam from expanding easily across the panel lattice. Avoid this scenario. The foam will fill the gap.
			* For hexagonal or triangular panels lay down a triangular pattern.
			* Once confident with the panel trellis shape, epoxy the brackets onto the bamboo with as much epoxy as you dare. Preferably you should have arranged the bamboo trellis to "cross" right where each bracket is. Ensure that the bracket is really firmly epoxied, encasing it is best. Do not mess about. Alternatively superglue and baking soda may be used but bear in mind it may expand, so ensure masking tape is used to keep it in check and directed inside the latticework.
			* Remove the trellis/lattice frame from its attachment points.
			* Cover the brackets (and the frame) with black non-woven polyester cloth, on the underside, in the size of the panel, but slightly larger (around 4-5 cm). If necessary cut and patch together in sections.
	* Cut out cardboard to fit each trellis hole, and punch holes at approx 40 mm intervals in regular grid patterns (for the label gun barbs). In the middle of the grid put a small dab of hotglue to affix the cardboard onto the black non-woven polyester.		* Cut out cardboard to fit each trellis hole, and punch holes at approx 40 mm intervals in regular grid patterns (for the label gun barbs). In the middle of the grid put a small dab of hotglue to affix the cardboard onto the black non-woven polyester.
	* Hot-glue the top layer of cloth all around the panel. If it is a huge panel it may be necessary to only do a portion at a time (including when filling with foam, which will be great fun. Do not overfill!		* Hot-glue the top layer of cloth all around the panel, but only up to around 15 in depth. If it is a huge panel it may be necessary to only do a portion at a time (including when filling with foam, which will be great fun. Do not overfill!)
	* Punch barbs through the top layer, through the cardboard holes, through the bottom layer of polyester. Repeat 4,000 times.		* Punch barbs through the top layer, through the cardboard holes, through the bottom layer of polyester. Repeat 4,000 times.
	* Slowly inject Soudal Fire-resistant foam into the panel. Bear in mind it will create huge pressure possibly snapping the label barbs if too great, so take care, take time. Plus, it really does expand considerably.		* Slowly inject Soudal Fire-resistant foam into the panel. Bear in mind it will create huge pressure possibly snapping the label barbs if too great, so take care, take time. Plus, it really does expand considerably.
Line 380:		Line 385:
	* Clear up the horrendous mess the expanding foam makes, it is not nice stuff.		* Clear up the horrendous mess the expanding foam makes, it is not nice stuff.
	* Leave the panel alone for 48 hours. In fact, just leave the panel alone. Do not be tempted to poke the bubbles that form between the polyester cloth, although it is quite fun.		* Leave the panel alone for 48 hours. In fact, just leave the panel alone. Do not be tempted to poke the bubbles that form between the polyester cloth, although it is quite fun.
			* On large panels continue the process of hotgluing sections of the top polyester, label-barbing, then foam-injection, until completed. Although tedious ensure that the Foam Gun is cleaned every single time. Failing to do so results very quickly in finding out why it is necessary to clean it immediately. '''REALLY do not do either the Foam Injection or cleaning inside a domestic environment (outdoors is fine). Both acetone cleaner and the Foam itself are nasty stuff, despite being DIY materials. Wear appropriate clothing and Organic Filtration Masks'''.

	=Videos=		=Videos=

Lkcl: /* BOM */

2023-03-03T12:06:24Z

BOM

← Older revision		Revision as of 12:06, 3 March 2023
Line 220:		Line 220:

	* Fire-resistant Epoxy (FR4) available from MBFG.co.uk		* Fire-resistant Epoxy (FR4) available from MBFG.co.uk
	* QTY ~~5of~~ 1.29 kit Sicomin SR5550/SD5505 (fast hardener) available from MBFG		* QTY 7of 1.29 kit Sicomin SR5550/SD5505 (fast hardener) available from MBFG
	* QTY 10 metres 1.1m width 1414 (4mm weave/weft) Kevlar cloth		* QTY 18 metres 1.1m width 1414 (4mm weave/weft) Kevlar cloth
	* Flax, hemp, or hessian (thick coarse linen)		* Flax, hemp, or hessian (thick coarse linen)
	* QTY 20 metres Kevlar "strip" 50mm wide		* QTY 20 metres Kevlar "strip" 50mm wide (MBFG)
	* Scrap paper		* Scrap paper
	* QTY 10of 25 metre Masking tape 25mm wide		* QTY 10of 25 metre Masking tape 25mm wide

Lkcl: /* Frame assembly */

2023-03-02T10:31:03Z

Frame assembly

← Older revision		Revision as of 10:31, 2 March 2023
Line 272:		Line 272:

	In some places L-brackets back-to-back can be used but it is critical not to treat these as structural.		In some places L-brackets back-to-back can be used but it is critical not to treat these as structural.

			'''Issues likely to be encountered'''

	Be advised that if using superglue-baking-soda it will expand like construction foam! especially if the superglue has a high acid content.		Be advised that if using superglue-baking-soda it will expand like construction foam! especially if the superglue has a high acid content.
	Be prepared to mask off the tube so that the expansion does not result in interference with the M10 bolts. https://youtu.be/Nj0OImHFjFM		Be prepared to mask off the tube so that the expansion does not result in interference with the M10 bolts. https://youtu.be/Nj0OImHFjFM

			The Stainless steel 316 tubes absolutely must be adequately glued in. If they come loose the vehicle could literally fall apart which is dangerous. Consider roughening the outer surface significantly, especially of polished 316, even to the extent of using a hacksaw to score regular (short, 4mm) deep "X" or "V" patterns (no more than 0.15 mm deep).

	=== BOM ===		=== BOM ===
Line 291:		Line 295:

	* Cut two wraps of 1414 Aramid instead (30 mm by 120 mm). Do not use the 50 mm MBFG Kevlar tape, it is too thick and dislikes sticking (de-laminates, repeatedly, due to the angle of curvature on the pipe).		* Cut two wraps of 1414 Aramid instead (30 mm by 120 mm). Do not use the 50 mm MBFG Kevlar tape, it is too thick and dislikes sticking (de-laminates, repeatedly, due to the angle of curvature on the pipe).
			* "Roughen" the surface of each tube with a hacksaw, cutting small shallow "V" or "X" patterns no more than 0.15 mm deep.
	* Wrap each 30 mm 304 stainless steel section once with Kevlar, lengthwise, ensuring that there is no overlap on the ends (bare steel). Leave them all to cure for at least 2 days.		* Wrap each 30 mm 304 stainless steel section once with Kevlar, lengthwise, ensuring that there is no overlap on the ends (bare steel). Leave them all to cure for at least 2 days.
	* Pair up the Epoxied tubes and assemble them with an M10 bolt and nut, but without the Nylon insert into the nut.		* Pair up the Epoxied tubes and assemble them with an M10 bolt and nut, but without the Nylon insert into the nut.

Lkcl: /* Panels Phase */

2023-03-01T09:19:48Z

Panels Phase

← Older revision		Revision as of 09:19, 1 March 2023
Line 323:		Line 323:

	90 degree metal brackets are embedded within the panel, allowing it to be bolted or screwed onto the frame.		90 degree metal brackets are embedded within the panel, allowing it to be bolted or screwed onto the frame.

			An important note when assembling panels: given that the frame itself is to be used in effect as a "jig" waiting for the foam to set it is critical that panels are assembled symmetrically. If done one at a time any pressure may cause frame twisting.

	== BOM ==		== BOM ==

Lkcl: /* Alternative technique */

2023-03-01T09:17:14Z

Alternative technique

← Older revision		Revision as of 09:17, 1 March 2023
Line 310:		Line 310:

	* alignment of all M10 Bolts and associated ''single'' 304 tube		* alignment of all M10 Bolts and associated ''single'' 304 tube
	* not to overtighten. When two 304 tubes are used they cannot compress		* not to overtighten. When two 304 tubes are used they cannot compress.
			* overtightening risks stressing the frame as the bolt head is embedded in it.
	* if the bolt is ever stripped or damaged it is a severe repair problem.		* if the bolt is ever stripped or damaged it is a severe repair problem.
	* the bolts '''must''' all point in the direction that the assemblies are to be affixed (by sliding all bolts into all tubes, simultaneously). one bolt pointing even at two degrees off-kilter could mean that the bolt simply cannot be assembled ''or even disassembed''.		* the bolts '''must''' all point in the direction that the assemblies are to be affixed (by sliding all bolts into all tubes, simultaneously). one bolt pointing even at two degrees off-kilter could mean that the bolt simply cannot be assembled ''or even disassembed''.
	* If resin drips onto the threads during wrapping the bolt has to be repaired in-situ.		* If resin drips onto the threads during wrapping the bolt has to be repaired in-situ, it cannot be removed.

	Although the embedding of an M10 bolt into the roof at the top corner of the doorframe saves on resources and weight it is highly risky: great care should be taken. Covering exposed portions of the bolt with masking tape and insertion of thin cardboard between sections during wrapping should be considered.		Although the embedding of an M10 bolt into the roof at the top corner of the doorframe saves on resources and weight it is highly risky: great care should be taken. Covering exposed portions of the bolt with masking tape and insertion of thin cardboard between sections during wrapping should be considered.

Lkcl: /* Frame Assembly Phase: metal mounts */

2023-02-27T12:33:37Z

Frame Assembly Phase: metal mounts

← Older revision		Revision as of 12:33, 27 February 2023
Line 272:		Line 272:

	In some places L-brackets back-to-back can be used but it is critical not to treat these as structural.		In some places L-brackets back-to-back can be used but it is critical not to treat these as structural.

			Be advised that if using superglue-baking-soda it will expand like construction foam! especially if the superglue has a high acid content.
			Be prepared to mask off the tube so that the expansion does not result in interference with the M10 bolts. https://youtu.be/Nj0OImHFjFM

	=== BOM ===		=== BOM ===

Lkcl: /* Kevlar/Cloth-Resin phase */

2023-02-27T02:39:42Z

Kevlar/Cloth-Resin phase

← Older revision		Revision as of 02:39, 27 February 2023
Line 205:		Line 205:
	= Kevlar/Cloth-Resin phase =		= Kevlar/Cloth-Resin phase =

	'''Adequate ventilation is critical at this phase. Epoxy resins can give off fumes. Make absolutely certain to read and follow all safety guidelines. This is entirely your responsibility.'''		'''Adequate ventilation is critical at this phase. Epoxy resins can give off fumes. Make absolutely certain to read and follow all safety guidelines. Addittionally Kevlar is a non-destructable material.
			Cutting or sanding it releases micro-fibres which if breathed in
			can seriously damage your lungs, and other things. Again: look up
			and follow all safety guidelines. This is entirely your responsibility.'''

	There are two main tasks here:		There are two main tasks here:

Lkcl: /* Alternative technique */

2023-02-26T04:34:59Z

Alternative technique

← Older revision		Revision as of 04:34, 26 February 2023
Line 307:		Line 307:
	* if the bolt is ever stripped or damaged it is a severe repair problem.		* if the bolt is ever stripped or damaged it is a severe repair problem.
	* the bolts '''must''' all point in the direction that the assemblies are to be affixed (by sliding all bolts into all tubes, simultaneously). one bolt pointing even at two degrees off-kilter could mean that the bolt simply cannot be assembled ''or even disassembed''.		* the bolts '''must''' all point in the direction that the assemblies are to be affixed (by sliding all bolts into all tubes, simultaneously). one bolt pointing even at two degrees off-kilter could mean that the bolt simply cannot be assembled ''or even disassembed''.
			* If resin drips onto the threads during wrapping the bolt has to be repaired in-situ.

			Although the embedding of an M10 bolt into the roof at the top corner of the doorframe saves on resources and weight it is highly risky: great care should be taken. Covering exposed portions of the bolt with masking tape and insertion of thin cardboard between sections during wrapping should be considered.

	= Panels Phase =		= Panels Phase =

Lkcl: /* BOM */

2023-02-26T04:30:07Z

BOM

← Older revision		Revision as of 04:30, 26 February 2023
Line 280:		Line 280:
	* Silicomin SR5550 resin and fast hardener		* Silicomin SR5550 resin and fast hardener
	* Fast-acting Araldite Epoxy resin, FR4 potting resin, or Superglue and Baking Soda https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eP3xJIJ-TbU		* Fast-acting Araldite Epoxy resin, FR4 potting resin, or Superglue and Baking Soda https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eP3xJIJ-TbU
	* 30x30 mm L-brackets and M5 bolts, 12 mm.		* 30x30 mm L-brackets and M5 bolts, 12 mm, with lock-nuts (or Loctite threadlock)

	=== Instructions ===		=== Instructions ===