Power Cube/Intro Video Script: Difference between revisions

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Construction of the power cube is a multiple step process including fabrication of parts and assembly.  Work in a well-ventilated shop equipped with space for storage of materials, an area for using a cutting torch, and a welding table suitable for use with an arc welder.  Always wear appropriate safety gear.  A list of necessary materials and tools is available on the Open Source Ecology wiki page for Power Cube/Manufacturing Instructions.
The first step in construction of the power cube is to fabricate several parts prior to assembly.  Detailed specifications for fabrication of materials for the power cube are available on the Open Source Ecology wiki page Power Cube/Manufacturing Instructions.


The first step in construction of the power cube is to fabricate several parts prior to assembly.  This will require cutting and drilling steel up to 3/8" in thickness.   
The Fuel Tank for the power cube is constructed from a steel tube with two end plates.  The welds on the tank must be quality to prevent leaking.  Make sure to thoroughly clean the inside of the tank.  Any debris mixing with the gasoline could potentially clog the engine when started.  Pour soapy water over the tank after welding and look for new air bubbles to spot any air leaks.  Repeat the process of welding and checking for holes with soapy water until perfection.


Start with drilling and cutting of the engine and hydraulic pump mounts.  A torch is carefully used to cut the steel.
The Hydraulic Reservoir also requires careful welding to ensure it is liquid tight.  Thoroughly clean the edges of the tube, the inside, and clean grind tank bungs.  Tack and weld plates to either end of the tube.  Tack and weld the strainer extension tube to the tank, centered around the strainer hole.  Insert the strainer into the flange and insert it into the strainer extension tube – verify that it slides without binding or bottoming and that the flange is flush with the end of the tube. Remove the strainer from the flange, then tack and weld the flange to the tank.  Keep the strainer away from the welding and flames, as its thin wires burn easily.  Perform a soapy water test on the tank.


Two quick attach mounts are created to attach to the top of the cube.  These mounts will support the full weight of the cube and make it possible to move the cube and attach it to other machinery.
If you are planning on constructing multiple power cubes it saves times to first create a jig to use in assembling the power cube frame.  The frame on the bottom of the jig keeps the power cube frame square while assembling, and the two upright guides ensure that the vertical sides of the frame under construction are plumb.  Angled spacers are inserted tightly into the corners of the jig between the frame during construction.  The spacers are then driven out to free the completed power cube frame from the jig.
 
Next is the fuel tank, constructed from a steel tube with two end plates.  The welds on the tank must be quality to prevent leaking.  Be careful not to over weld the mount to the tank and make sure to thoroughly clean the inside of the tank.  Any debris mixing with the gasoline could potentially clog the engine when started.
 
Drill out the holes in the fan mount and connect end plates.  Drill out holes in the key switch and choke mounts.
 
Electrical cables should be cut and connectors applied to the ends by stripping 1.5" of insulation from the cables, then slip on connectors, hammer them closed, and drill holes for connection.
 
Cut down steel on a bandsaw or metal cutoff saw to create battery mounts.  tack and weld together.
 
The Hydraulic Reservoir must be carefully made with quality welds so it will not leak.  Thoroughly clean the edges of the tube, the inside, and clean grind tank bungs.  Tack and weld plates to either end of the tube.  Tack and weld the strainer extension tube to the tank, centered around the strainer hole.  Insert the strainer into the flange and insert it into the strainer extension tube – verify that it slides without binding or bottoming and that the flange is flush with the end of the tube. Remove the strainer from the flange, then tack and weld the flange to the tank.  Keep the strainer away from the welding and flames, as its thin wires burn easily.
 
Fabrication is completed and now it's on to assembly.  Assembly requires a welder (electric or torch) capable of welding metal 3/8” thick. 
 
If you are planning on constructing multiple power cubes it saves times to first create a jig to use in assembling the power cube frame.  The frame on the bottom of the jig keeps the power cube frame square while assembling and the two upright guides ensure that the vertical sides of the frame under construction are plumb.  Angled spacers are inserted tightly into the corners of the jig between the frame during construction.  The spacers are then driven out to free the completed power cube frame from the jig.


The frame is constructed out of twelve angled iron pieces tacked and welded together.  Position two 29” pieces angle iron on top of two 27” angle pieces. Check that all joints are square, then tack and weld joints.  With one welded rectangle on the bottom, position two 24” pieces outside corner joints. Check that the angles are square, then tack and weld.  Repeat the prior procedure and this one for another half of the frame assembly.  Position the two half cubes together, then tack and weld. Inspect all corners to verify secure welds.
The frame is constructed out of twelve angled iron pieces tacked and welded together.  Position two 29” pieces angle iron on top of two 27” angle pieces. Check that all joints are square, then tack and weld joints.  With one welded rectangle on the bottom, position two 24” pieces outside corner joints. Check that the angles are square, then tack and weld.  Repeat the prior procedure and this one for another half of the frame assembly.  Position the two half cubes together, then tack and weld. Inspect all corners to verify secure welds.


Now you can begin to assemble the elements of the power cube inside the frame.  Screw the 1/4" hose barb into the 1/4 NPT flange welded into the gas tank.  Perform a “soap bubble” test on the tank to check for holes before attaching to the frame.  Tack and weld the gas tank mount to the frame. Position it so the gas tank is 1" from the nearest vertical angle iron support.  Tack and weld the gas tank to the gas tank mount.
Now you can begin to assemble the elements of the power cube inside the frame.  Tack and weld the gas tank mount to the frame. Cover holes to prevent debris from entering tank while welding.  Position it so the gas tank is 3" from the nearest vertical angle iron support.  Tack and weld the gas tank to the gas tank mount.


Perform a “soap bubble” test on the hydraulic fluid tank.  Cover holes to prevent debris from entering tank while welding.  Secure to the frame using 6" clamps, then weld to the frame with 4 1” welds.  
Now attach the hydraulic tank.  Secure to the frame using 6" clamps, then weld to the frame with 4 1” welds.  


Assemble the engine mount plates at a 90 degree angle against the angled cross supports.  Securely weld the angled edge of the plates.  Lower the engine into place and check positioning of bolts and drive shaft, tack weld the bolts and remove the engine, then securely weld the bolts into place.  Check alignment of the plates with engine in place and then securely weld the engine mount together.
Assemble the engine mount plates at a 90 degree angle against the angled cross supports.  Securely weld the angled edge of the plates.  Lower the engine into place and check positioning of bolts and drive shaft, tack weld the bolts and remove the engine, then securely weld the bolts into place.  Check alignment of the plates with engine in place and then securely weld the engine mount together.

Revision as of 02:18, 24 September 2011

The first step in construction of the power cube is to fabricate several parts prior to assembly. Detailed specifications for fabrication of materials for the power cube are available on the Open Source Ecology wiki page Power Cube/Manufacturing Instructions.

The Fuel Tank for the power cube is constructed from a steel tube with two end plates. The welds on the tank must be quality to prevent leaking. Make sure to thoroughly clean the inside of the tank. Any debris mixing with the gasoline could potentially clog the engine when started. Pour soapy water over the tank after welding and look for new air bubbles to spot any air leaks. Repeat the process of welding and checking for holes with soapy water until perfection.

The Hydraulic Reservoir also requires careful welding to ensure it is liquid tight. Thoroughly clean the edges of the tube, the inside, and clean grind tank bungs. Tack and weld plates to either end of the tube. Tack and weld the strainer extension tube to the tank, centered around the strainer hole. Insert the strainer into the flange and insert it into the strainer extension tube – verify that it slides without binding or bottoming and that the flange is flush with the end of the tube. Remove the strainer from the flange, then tack and weld the flange to the tank. Keep the strainer away from the welding and flames, as its thin wires burn easily. Perform a soapy water test on the tank.

If you are planning on constructing multiple power cubes it saves times to first create a jig to use in assembling the power cube frame. The frame on the bottom of the jig keeps the power cube frame square while assembling, and the two upright guides ensure that the vertical sides of the frame under construction are plumb. Angled spacers are inserted tightly into the corners of the jig between the frame during construction. The spacers are then driven out to free the completed power cube frame from the jig.

The frame is constructed out of twelve angled iron pieces tacked and welded together. Position two 29” pieces angle iron on top of two 27” angle pieces. Check that all joints are square, then tack and weld joints. With one welded rectangle on the bottom, position two 24” pieces outside corner joints. Check that the angles are square, then tack and weld. Repeat the prior procedure and this one for another half of the frame assembly. Position the two half cubes together, then tack and weld. Inspect all corners to verify secure welds.

Now you can begin to assemble the elements of the power cube inside the frame. Tack and weld the gas tank mount to the frame. Cover holes to prevent debris from entering tank while welding. Position it so the gas tank is 3" from the nearest vertical angle iron support. Tack and weld the gas tank to the gas tank mount.

Now attach the hydraulic tank. Secure to the frame using 6" clamps, then weld to the frame with 4 1” welds.

Assemble the engine mount plates at a 90 degree angle against the angled cross supports. Securely weld the angled edge of the plates. Lower the engine into place and check positioning of bolts and drive shaft, tack weld the bolts and remove the engine, then securely weld the bolts into place. Check alignment of the plates with engine in place and then securely weld the engine mount together.

Engine mounting may require some adaptation, as the bolt holes on engines may differ. Examine the engine shaft – it should be 2” long, if longer, cut the shaft down to 2”. Hoist the engine and center it on its mounting plate. Verify that the engine shaft extends through the hole without touching the plate. Thread nuts on the engine mounting bolts about 2/3 onto each bolt. Re-check the engine alignment on the plate, then weld the bolt heads to the engine mounting plate.

To mount the Hydraulic Pump place the engine key in the engine shaft keyway and slide the larger end of the coupling on the engine shaft . Tighten the lock screw with the appropriate hex key and bolt the hydraulic pump to the pump mounting plate. Thread one nut on each of the four 3/4" x 4 1/2" bolts, insert the bolts through the holes on the hydraulic pump mounting plate as shown below. With the hydraulic pump properly in place the four bolts will self align against the engine plate. Verify that the key is in the hydraulic pump shaft, then align it with the keyway in the coupler and slide the pump upwards until the bolt heads touch the engine mounting plate as shown below. Align the hydraulic mounting plate so its edges are parallel with the engine plate and weld the four 3/4" bolt heads to the engine plate.

Weld the two battery mounts to the angle iron and tank to form a rectangle for the battery. After the mount has cooled, lower the battery into the rectangle to verify it fits properly.

Weld the two quick release plates to the top sides of the frame. Secure at 45 degree angles before welding in place. Use solid, strong welds the entire length of the plates, as they will bear the load of the entire power cube.

Position the two oil cooler mounting plates to the outside of the frame, adjust so the oil cooler mounting bolts match the holes in the plates and is positioned properly. Tack and weld the mounts to the frame. Verify that the oil cooler bolts match the holes in the mounts.

Use the mounting holes in the fan shroud and the oil cooler width for positioning the mounting plates. Position the four plates, then tack and weld. Position the two 2” x 24” plates against the 1” plates, then tack and weld. Place the fan on the supports and mark the mounts with bolt hole positions. Place the bolt heads against the fan mounting plate and weld in place. Verify that the bolts match the holes in the fan. Inside the frame, adjust the fan position to to position fan shroud ¼” from oil cooler fins. Be careful with radiator as the delicate fins are easily bent and damaged.

Next, clamp the keyswitch bracket to the frame and weld in place. Clamp the choke bracket to the frame in respective position and weld in place.

Weld the solenoid mounting bolts to the hydraulic reservoir.

When painting the power cube, remove the engine if present and cover holes of tanks and any other place that should not be painted. Check all external surfaces for sharp edges and smooth with angle grinder. Remove any surface rust with wire brush and / or sandpaper. Apply a thorough coating of paint to all steel surfaces.

Install the solenoid by securing it on the bolts with two nuts.

Now the power cube can be wired. The keyswitch has spade connectors for wiring and bolts to the frame for stability. These should be connected with matching crimp-on connectors.

Connect the remaining wires. Note that the thicker lines represent the heavier wires that will carry high electrical current.

Install the keyswitches in the brackets. If your engine has a manual choke control, secure the choke control in its bracket. Choke installation is only necessary if your engine has a manual choke adjustment. Secure the engine choke knob. The throttle should be wired to permanently set the throttle adjustment to full throttle.

Lastly, install the engine and secure with bolts, nuts and washers. Also connect wiring to key switch and solenoid, connect the fuel line, connect the coupling to the engine shaft. Install the hydraulic pump on it's coupling and secure it with nuts and washers and install the fan and hydraulic oil cooler.

For more detailed instructions and diagrams, visit the open source ecology wiki page on power cube manufacturing instructions.

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