Power Cube/Intro Video Script

The first step in construction of the power cube is to fabricate several parts prior to assembly. Detailed specifications for fabrication of materials for the power cube are available on the Open Source Ecology wiki page Power Cube/Manufacturing Instructions.

If you are planning on constructing multiple power cubes it saves times to first create a jig to use in assembling the power cube frame. The frame on the bottom of the jig keeps the power cube frame square while assembling, and the two upright guides ensure that the vertical sides of the frame under construction are plumb. Angled spacers are inserted tightly into the corners of the jig between the frame during construction. The spacers are then driven out to free the completed power cube frame from the jig.

The frame is constructed out of twelve angled iron pieces tacked and welded together. Position two 29” pieces angle iron on top of two 27” angle pieces. Check that all joints are square, then tack and weld joints. With one welded rectangle on the bottom, position two 24” pieces outside corner joints. Check that the angles are square, then tack and weld. Repeat the prior procedure and this one for another half of the frame assembly. Position the two half cubes together, then tack and weld. Inspect all corners to verify secure welds.

The Fuel Tank for the power cube is constructed from a steel tube with two end plates. The welds on the tank must be quality to prevent leaking. Make sure to thoroughly clean the inside of the tank. Pour soapy water over the tank after welding and look for new air bubbles to spot any air leaks. Repeat the process of welding and checking for holes with soapy water until perfection.

The Hydraulic Reservoir also requires careful welding to ensure it is liquid tight. Thoroughly clean the edges of the tube, the inside, and clean grind tank bungs. Tack and weld plates to either end of the tube. Insert the strainer into the flange and insert it into the strainer extension tube – verify that it slides without binding or bottoming and that the flange is flush with the end of the tube. Remove the strainer from the flange, then tack and weld the flange to the tank. Keep the strainer away from the welding and flames, as its thin wires burn easily. Perform a soapy water test on the tank.

Now you can begin to assemble the elements of the power cube inside the frame. Attach the gas tank mount to the frame. Position it so the gas tank will be 3" from the nearest vertical angle iron support. Tack and weld the gas tank to the gas tank mount.

Tack and weld the hydraulic tank to the frame. Cover holes to prevent debris from entering tank while welding. Any debris stuck inside the hydraulic tank will reduce the life of the hydraulic pump.

Tack the 2" x 2" angle plate to the Hydraulic Tank. Bolt the horizontal engine mount plate to the angle plate. Bolt the vertical engine mount plate to the 29" angle support and set it into the frame so the vertical engine mount plate and the horizontal engine mount plate meet at a 90 degree angle. Weld the 90 degree angle. Unbolt the engine mount assembly from the supports and bolt it onto the engine outside of the cube.

Mount the Hydraulic Pump onto the engine while it is lying on its side out of the power cube frame. Proper mounting and alignment of the pump is essential for the longevity and effectiveness of the power cube. Bolt the hydraulic pump to the pump mounting plate. Thread one nut on each of the four 3/4" x 4 1/2" bolts and insert the bolts through the holes on the hydraulic pump mounting plate. To mount the Hydraulic Pump place the engine key in the engine shaft keyway and slide the larger end of the coupling on the engine shaft . Tighten the lock screw with the appropriate hex key and tighten the set screws on the coupler. With the hydraulic pump properly in place the four bolts will self align against the engine plate. Verify that the key is in the hydraulic pump shaft, then align it with the keyway in the coupler and slide the pump upwards until the bolt heads touch the engine mounting plate. Align the hydraulic mounting plate so its edges are parallel with the engine plate and weld the four 3/4" bolt heads to the engine plate.

Weld the engine cross support across the bottom of the cube frame in position for the engine mount plate to meet. Lower the engine assembly into the cube. The angled mount of the engine will rest on the hydraulic tank and the cross support. Tack and weld into place.

Weld the two battery mounts to the angle iron and tank to form a rectangle for the battery. After the mount has cooled, lower the battery into the rectangle to verify it fits properly.

Position the two oil cooler mounting plates to the outside of the frame, adjust so the oil cooler mounting bolts match the holes in the plates and is positioned properly. Tack and weld the mounts to the frame. Verify that the oil cooler bolts match the holes in the mounts.

Use the mounting holes in the fan shroud and the oil cooler width for positioning the mounting plates. Position the four plates, then tack and weld. Position the two 2” x 24” plates against the 1” plates, then tack and weld. Place the fan on the supports and mark the mounts with bolt hole positions. Place the bolt heads against the fan mounting plate and weld in place. Verify that the bolts match the holes in the fan. Inside the frame, adjust the fan position to to position fan shroud ¼” from oil cooler fins. Be careful with radiator as the delicate fins are easily bent and damaged.

Connect the hydraulic suction hose to the inlet of the hydraulic pump and connect the return hose to the hydraulic oil cooler.

Next, clamp the keyswitch bracket to the frame and weld in place. Clamp the choke bracket to the frame in respective position and weld in place.

Weld the solenoid mounting bolts to the hydraulic reservoir. Install the solenoid by securing it on the bolts with two nuts.

Mufflers are fabricated and attached to either side of the engine to direct exhaust flow.

Weld the two quick release plates to the top sides of the frame. Secure at an angle so the opening at the bottom of the angle is approximately 2 1/8" before welding in place. Use solid, strong welds the entire length of the plates, as they will bear the load of the entire power cube.

When painting the power cube, remove the engine if present and cover holes of tanks and any other place that should not be painted. Check all external surfaces for sharp edges and smooth with angle grinder. Remove any surface rust with wire brush and / or sandpaper. Apply a thorough coating of paint to all steel surfaces.

Now the power cube can be wired. The keyswitch has spade connectors for wiring and bolts to the frame for stability. These should be connected with matching crimp-on connectors.

Install the keyswitches in the brackets. If your engine has a manual throttle control, secure the throttle control in its bracket. Throttle installation is necessary only if your engine has a manual choke adjustment. Secure the engine choke knob. The throttle should be wired to permanently set the throttle adjustment to full throttle.

Lastly, install the engine and secure with bolts, nuts and washers. Also connect wiring to key switch and solenoid, connect the fuel line, connect the coupling to the engine shaft. Install the hydraulic pump on it's coupling and secure it with nuts and washers and install the fan and hydraulic oil cooler.

For more detailed instructions and diagrams, visit the open source ecology wiki page on power cube manufacturing instructions.