Soil Mixer - Overall Machine - Build Instructions

Fabricate, in order: Note: There is a lot of steel in this thing, and some of the parts are quite heavy. Where suitable, be generous with your tack welding accordingly, to ensure adequate

strength. 1. The tine modules, which together with the rotor shaft and coupler, forms the rotor module Soil_Mixer_-_Rotor_Module_-_Build_Instructions

+ I recommend making a singe tine module first, to see the process working, before cutting and welding in batches. This ensures that all equipment is working etc. - cut the 3" pipe sections with a cold cut saw - Cut the tines from the 1/4x2" stock, 4" each, using the ironworker. 72 of them. -lay the tines out on the ground with the corners touching, and tack weld them together. -put the 3" pipe section in a vice and place the tines in position around it, then tack them together. -cut the hole in the side of the pipe for the bolt to pass through with an oxy acetylene torch. - tack weld the nut on. - Complete all welds while the tine module is in the vice. - Remember there are 2 different tine module varieties, 9 of each type, the only difference being the radial position of the nut and associated hole in the side of the

pipe is different by 45 degrees. This ensures that only half of the tines hit the surface of the soil at any given time.

2. Then the rotor shaft Soil_Mixer_-_Rotor_Module_-_Build_Instructions - Cut the rod to length. - using an angle grinder, grind 1/4 inches down one side of the shaft. For the bolt ends to lock against. - drill the hole along the diameter at the end of the shaft for the 1/2" coupler bolt/shear pin. You may be able to get away with putting the 6 spline coupler on the

end of the shaft and using the existing holes in it as a guide for a mag drill to drill the hole. Start the drill hole perpendicular to the flat ground side of the

shaft. - the key for the shaft-coupler connection is not yet addressed in this draft of the instructions.

3. The lid, with integral hinges.

4. The tooth bar -Cut the rebar and stock to size. -tack weld the 5. The bucket, which includes the means to connect it to the tractor arm and hinges for the lid.

-Tack weld the side triangular pieces to the bottom. -add the back after -add the back finger and the small triangular cross bracing piece. -add the side tabs - add the two side hinge pieces - using the hinge rod if you prefer to aid alignment, add the 2 center hinge pieces. - add the piston support pieces.

The other parts are off the shelf, including the motor coupler, motor, and hydraulic piston used to lift and close the lid.

This document needs to be expanded into more detail, and will be later, as it must before the fabrication actually starts.Assemble, at this point the welding is all

done:

1. The bucket and rotor module:

a) Insert the rotor shaft through one bearing, might as well be on the side which does not have the motor mount. Remember to orient the shaft so that the hole for the

coupler is on the right side.

b) Get those tine modules onto the rotor shaft. Don't tighten the bolts yet.

c) Fully insert the shaft through the bearing on the other side. Tighten the bolts on the bearings to attach the inner collar of the bearing to the shaft.

d) Attach the motor coupler

e) Attach the motor. Ensure the hydraulic couplers are pointing towards the tractor.

f) Tighten all bolts to final tightness, including all bolts on the tine modules

2. Attach the tooth bar.

3. Attach the lid.

4. Attach the hydraulic piston.

Ensure all bolts are tight, everything moves as hoped, and you are ready to attach it to the tractor.