Feedback on Inspection Schedule: Difference between revisions

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(Created page with "=Houston Area= ==Question== ==Answer== Okay, the money side seems clear enough. Teh pinch is code compliance and inspections. When I was a gen. contractor had to go to t...")
 
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You riding is very likely to be tongue and groove or lap and gap. I you go long way, horizontally with the joints you cannot make them staggered up the side, so that’s out. Covering the joint with  1x2 or even a 1x4 is an invitation to a crack and death and bugs and complaints.  
You riding is very likely to be tongue and groove or lap and gap. I you go long way, horizontally with the joints you cannot make them staggered up the side, so that’s out. Covering the joint with  1x2 or even a 1x4 is an invitation to a crack and death and bugs and complaints.  
My solution (#3) is to leave a 6” gap of siding on both sides of the 4x8’ panel, not just one side. Although tit will add some funky pieces to add, it will allow you to finish the inside and also to fill all gaps with foam/insulation.  
My solution (#3) is to leave a 6” gap of siding on both sides of the 4x8’ panel, not just one side. Although tit will add some funky pieces to add, it will allow you to finish the inside and also to fill all gaps with foam/insulation.  
You nail all the panels together just like a Fram ehouse. You can raise a whole wall in minutes, rack it to square and brace it so the windows fit perfectly. Then glue and screw the 12” piece to all joints and shoot the screw shanked nails to hold it. One painted you will not see that joint. Yes, it add 2 extra 2x4” to the panel, so that’s not nothing, but you get a completely permanent patch over a potential problem. Since you are custom making these panels in a work shop, the 12” piece can be made into a lap joint on both side that just slaps over both existing panels—voila no cracks. I can get you one or perhaps 2 extra 2x4’s you are already using by pulling them from the U joints where interior wall connects to the exterior wall. Usually that requires 3 studs. If you use foam, then take the two side studs and move them to the approbate edges to handle the siding patch.
You nail all the panels together just like a Frame house. You can raise a whole wall in minutes, rack it to square and brace it so the windows fit perfectly. Then glue and screw the 12” piece to all joints and shoot the screw shanked nails to hold it. One painted you will not see that joint. Yes, it add 2 extra 2x4” to the panel, so that’s not nothing, but you get a completely permanent patch over a potential problem. Since you are custom making these panels in a work shop, the 12” piece can be made into a lap joint on both side that just slaps over both existing panels—voila no cracks. I can get you one or perhaps 2 extra 2x4’s you are already using by pulling them from the U joints where interior wall connects to the exterior wall. Usually that requires 3 studs. If you use foam, then take the two side studs and move them to the approbate edges to handle the siding patch.
Of course the inside if it is Sheetrock or paneling just gets taped and floated at the wall joints...
Of course the inside if it is Sheetrock or paneling just gets taped and floated at the wall joints...
The problem that I see arising from only one exterior lapped joint is that the builder has to label and sort the panels for left and right hand side. Siding guys automatically do this but a first time builder will have a hell of a time getting this right. I don’t know what your experiences but that would worry me.
The problem that I see arising from only one exterior lapped joint is that the builder has to label and sort the panels for left and right hand side. Siding guys automatically do this but a first time builder will have a hell of a time getting this right. I don’t know what your experiences but that would worry me.


Hope that gives you soemthing to think about. Teh country and the world need good sized homes that they own from there get go…so good luck and let me know if there is anything else I can comment on. I love to know what you decide.
Hope that gives you something to think about. Teh country and the world need good sized homes that they own from there get go…so good luck and let me know if there is anything else I can comment on. I love to know what you decide.
 
Best to you today,
Dan

Revision as of 16:49, 28 August 2020

Houston Area

Question

Answer

Okay, the money side seems clear enough. Teh pinch is code compliance and inspections. When I was a gen. contractor had to go to the Rg, office and pay like $100 for GM license, filed the names of subs and details of project—drawings etc. First inspection was me calling to say we are ready to start work. Some guy showed up and looked around, asked the owner questions measured som off-sets to wires, trees etc. He signed the paper and nailed a sign o the nearest permanent wall or whatever that we not allowed to touch. We had to have a dumpster on site from start—no junk blowing around ir for little kids to get into. Basic structure was up and we had to call for #1 inspect. Which got signed off on and authority to continue posted in the building—usually by electrical inlet area. I called sub who showed up, write his license # down for me and then went to work. He called for inspection when he was done. Any failures were re-done at his cost. Most subs wanted 50% in cash when they showed up. I never paid that until the first day work was done or they would walk away and not show up—so sue me, is what you hear fro mafia types. Anyhow, that is how it goes and the inspector is god. I would expect at least 6 inspections for a big remodels I did, And more lf a slab was in the plan. They then come for site, again for pour and set and then take a slump sample. Most GM’s know the inspectors and subs and they all get along well in one area. They ALL resented me coming in from outside and taking work away from them. The GM will bid just under 10% of total cost for his piece of the pie. He will then dun the subs for 10% of their pie. That’s his profit over cost. When I worked in Houston it was strictly pay to play and pay all the way. I hated it and worked with a woman who was a good lawyer who stopped all the extortion. ..Let’s go to lunch and sort this out, the I would say and then I would calll her to join us for that lunch and save my bacon. Not fun.

Anyways, on the technical side of the build and the way to get a perfect joint tha tis durable and easy, I say skip the fold and the caulk/stuffing on Solution 2. You riding is very likely to be tongue and groove or lap and gap. I you go long way, horizontally with the joints you cannot make them staggered up the side, so that’s out. Covering the joint with 1x2 or even a 1x4 is an invitation to a crack and death and bugs and complaints. My solution (#3) is to leave a 6” gap of siding on both sides of the 4x8’ panel, not just one side. Although tit will add some funky pieces to add, it will allow you to finish the inside and also to fill all gaps with foam/insulation. You nail all the panels together just like a Frame house. You can raise a whole wall in minutes, rack it to square and brace it so the windows fit perfectly. Then glue and screw the 12” piece to all joints and shoot the screw shanked nails to hold it. One painted you will not see that joint. Yes, it add 2 extra 2x4” to the panel, so that’s not nothing, but you get a completely permanent patch over a potential problem. Since you are custom making these panels in a work shop, the 12” piece can be made into a lap joint on both side that just slaps over both existing panels—voila no cracks. I can get you one or perhaps 2 extra 2x4’s you are already using by pulling them from the U joints where interior wall connects to the exterior wall. Usually that requires 3 studs. If you use foam, then take the two side studs and move them to the approbate edges to handle the siding patch. Of course the inside if it is Sheetrock or paneling just gets taped and floated at the wall joints... The problem that I see arising from only one exterior lapped joint is that the builder has to label and sort the panels for left and right hand side. Siding guys automatically do this but a first time builder will have a hell of a time getting this right. I don’t know what your experiences but that would worry me.

Hope that gives you something to think about. Teh country and the world need good sized homes that they own from there get go…so good luck and let me know if there is anything else I can comment on. I love to know what you decide.