Old Work Box: Difference between revisions

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=Round=
=Round=
*{{check}}Admissible parts - For resi, I prefer the 18 cu.in. 4” round, #C1-18 Slater boxes. A 3-3/4” hole saw is a perfect fit for it.
There is a known bug in most old work boxes - the clamps are too close to the edge and these must be cut out while using a hole saw for the round diameter.
*{{check}}Admissible parts - ''For resi, I prefer the 18 cu.in. 4” round, #C1-18 Slater boxes. A 3-3/4” hole saw is a perfect fit for it.
The Slater box is actually rated for 20lb fixture support, so I really like to use these for wall mount fixtures if the canopy will cover them.
The Slater box is actually rated for 20lb fixture support, so I really like to use these for wall mount fixtures if the canopy will cover them.
The old standard 14 cu.in. 3-1/2” round T&B phenolic boxes are still great for lightweight low profile applications having only a few wires. A 3-5/8” hole saw allows the for the C-clamp and ears to set in perfectly.
The old standard 14 cu.in. 3-1/2” round T&B phenolic boxes are still great for lightweight low profile applications having only a few wires. A 3-5/8” hole saw allows the for the C-clamp and ears to set in perfectly.

Revision as of 04:38, 12 May 2024

About

For cutouts in plywood, as opposed to frame mounted receptacles.

https://www.amazon.com/Lamson-B120R-Carlon-PVC-Outlet/dp/B00002N5FQ

Old work box in 60 seconds:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WON0DKCe5P8

Round

There is a known bug in most old work boxes - the clamps are too close to the edge and these must be cut out while using a hole saw for the round diameter.

  • Check.pngAdmissible parts - For resi, I prefer the 18 cu.in. 4” round, #C1-18 Slater boxes. A 3-3/4” hole saw is a perfect fit for it.

The Slater box is actually rated for 20lb fixture support, so I really like to use these for wall mount fixtures if the canopy will cover them. The old standard 14 cu.in. 3-1/2” round T&B phenolic boxes are still great for lightweight low profile applications having only a few wires. A 3-5/8” hole saw allows the for the C-clamp and ears to set in perfectly.

  • Slater - C1-18 box - [1]. Note that the clamp screws are recessed, allowing full coverage of flange with screws, up to 20 lb - no need for keyhole saw tab fixing.
  • Cantex seems ok - [2]

Sourcing

https://www.menards.com/main/electrical/electrical-boxes-covers/electrical-boxes/carlon-reg-1-gang-14-cu-in-pvc-old-work-electrical-switch-outlet-box/b114r-upc/p-1444444967457.htm

Dimensions

Note on dimensions - the outlet mounting screws form the outer edge. These screws are protrusions, or inside the box, but their outer dimension defines the height of the box. That appears to be 3-5/8". It is safe to do 3-3/4" as the 4 front tabs are larger than this. The locking tabs on the back are even larger.

It seems safe that 3.75 is a safe height of cutout, and 2-3/8" is a safe width (widths all appear to be 2.25").

  • 3-7/8-Inch Length by 2-3/8 [3]
  • 4-1/8 x 2-1/4 [4]
  • 2-3/4 in x 2-1/4 in [5]
  • 2.75 x 2.25 x 4.3 [6]
  • 3.65 x 2.3 x 4.3 [7]
  • 2.25 x 4.38 x 2.75 [8]

Allowed in New Construction

https://forums.mikeholt.com/threads/installation-of-old-work-boxes-in-new-construction.61773/

Exceptions

From [9]

Just a heads up, if the wall is fire rated the box must be secured to the stud regardless of the box listing. This is a building code issue not a electrical code issue.

I have no idea if the opening posters wall is fire rated.