Long Term Vehicle Storage Protocols

Basics

• This page aims to outline best practices on what to do for the long term storage of vehicles
• In this context is considered longer than a few weeks without use
• All in all basically “how to not do Russian Military Storage”

Cleaning

• Some purists would say a full detailing and whatnot would be needed
• That would definitely be nice, but honestly making sure no food/trash/crumbs are in the inside, no junk in any of the rainwater paths, and none of the ‘’real’’ issue causing dirt like Sap / Bird Poop etc that can eat through the Clear Coat and all that

Engine Fluids

• Topping These Off / Especially Doing an Oil Change beforehand can’t hurt
• Not as critical though as long as you keep up with all this all the time not just suddenly care before storage

Engine Fogging

• I need to read up on this more
• Engine Fogging

Pest Prevention

• Keep Insects/Rodents and whatnot away
• The post by amsol recommended physically blocking some entry points like the exhaust pipe (if relevant) etc
• High Quality Indoor Vehicle Storage like Garages etc ‘’should’’ already be Pest Free

Battery

• For Conventional ICE Vehicle 12v Lead Acid Batteries either remove them or install a Trickle Charger / Battery Keeper

Tires

• Keep the pressures at the right PSI
• Either drive the car a set amount so they do not sit on the same side and form a flat spot, or remove the tires and store the car on Jacks etc

Unknown

• Would adding some sort of Desiccant to the interior of the vehicle be of use
• Optimal Temperature/Humidity
• Any special concerns for ultra-long term
• Do engines ‘’really’’ need to be run every so often, and if so how often should it be done

External Links

• A Post by Amsoil Typed “Long-Term Vehicle Storage Tips”
  • Potential for bias as they sell their own Fuel Stabilizer and Engine Fogging Products, but otherwise good advice in a short summary