Ken Log

Hint: Ken, please put newest entries on top

---

Tue Mar 16, 2021

Found 5015 print cooling fan blower stopped running. Bought a replacement and fitted OK. 4010 Heat sink fan also not running. Noticed during printing - Info screen showing fan running but physically fan wasn't running. Measured voltage at fan cables showed 12Vdc. Removed fan and applied 24Vdc directly to fan supply cables - Fan is dead. Ordered a replacement, expected to arrive by Friday 19th March.

Need to work on FreeCAD, learning and then modifying controller 3D print part to accommodate a 240Vac RCCB (Residual Current Circuit Breaker) to replace the GFCI which is 120Vac. Power supply in Indonesia is 240Vav.

---

Wed Mar 10, 2021

Began build of 12" bed D3D pro. 12 pieces of 14" angle iron painting and assembling frame completed. Welding 12" heat bed box as well as 8" heat bed. Need more practice welding! Ran out of spray paint.

I was amused by Ashwin's narrative about being shy infront of a camera when discussing with Marcin. It also made me realise I needed to record my builds. Started recording 12" bed D3D pro build. still need to edit footage and provide link to video.

---

Tue Mar 2, 2021

Completed ordering parts for 1 D3D Pro 12" bed, 1 D3D Pro 8" bed and 2 D3D Universals. Almost complete. Need to organise to have Extruder heatsink block made locally.

---

Sun Feb 21, 2021

Updated permissions for Business Plan and Financial projections - Anyone can edit:

3Dimensi Indonesia Business Plan: https://docs.google.com/document/d/16MUrbJsQJ6PyKMFCFMGyophWc1_NJkUBsMNNK0UQP5s/edit?usp=sharing

3dimensi Indonesia Financial Projections: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1YNRubB4DYepi2t8DnEVFMd57hvZMeBOIKm47E1VJar8/edit?usp=sharing

Continuing to order parts for one 12" bed Pro, one 8" bed pro and two universal machines.

Currently printing out parts for the 12" bed Pro.

---

Sun Feb 14, 2021

In preparation for building one 12" bed Pro, one 8" bed pro and two D3D Universals spreadsheet with BOM list for all parts needed compiled: D3D Indonesia BOM.

Template for cutting mild steel for making heat beds: [[1]

---

Wed Jan 27, 2021

Proposed business name "3dimensi" Indonesia (not finalised yet)

3dimensi Business Plan link: https://docs.google.com/document/d/16MUrbJsQJ6PyKMFCFMGyophWc1_NJkUBsMNNK0UQP5s/edit?usp=sharing

3dimensi Financial Projections link: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1YNRubB4DYepi2t8DnEVFMd57hvZMeBOIKm47E1VJar8/edit?usp=sharing

3dimensi Business Plan Presentation - Google Slides: https://docs.google.com/presentation/d/1U-v1FXyG6X59VePRQLkMZDoN7RRzugcX4GuMFXSiVmE/edit?usp=sharing

Angel Investment Network Indonesia - www.angin.id. Organisation that screens and connects entrepreneurs with investors.

ANGIN Pitch Deck and Layer1 and Layer2 Questionnaires: https://docs.google.com/document/d/12kiizBHLL8jNVGBJyaK8Dxegoo9k34NtiWdXN_gRxBU/edit?usp=sharing

---

Mon Jan 25, 2021

D3D Pro BOM Indonesia: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1nBVyxK_W46d3mDSFMnj9aSUYoy32VwRlO83qdWATPoc/edit?usp=sharing

D3D Universal BOM Indonesia: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/120cEOiqhddD1kUu45EIsh2WtuVuZ8CBf2KAve_zA9A0/edit?usp=sharing

---

Thu Jan 21,2021

Cost of D3D Pro and universal parts did not take into account cost of 3D printed parts:

D3D Pro printed parts 2.32kg filament to print @ Rp330,000 per kg. Total Rp765,600 (US$51.04)add to cost of parts for D3D Pro = US$350 or Rp5,250,000. Selling price could be Rp10,500,000 (US$700)

D3D Universal parts 0.923kg filament at Rp330,000 per kg. Total Rp330,000 (US$22) add to cost of parts for D3D Universal = US$287 round up to US$290 or Rp4,350,000. Selling price could be Rp8,700,000.

---

Wed Jan 20, 2021

Prints are looking much better.

Completed D3D universal BOM Indonesia. Basically will source all parts locally. Of course some parts come from outside, namely China, but I won't be dealing with customs and importation issues for now.

D3D Pro Indonesia cost of parts estimate: Rp4,500,000 (US$300) including 20% markup for shipping costs. I am thinking selling price will be Rp9,999,000 (US$667) for fully built machine and Rp7,299,000 (US$487) for kit.

D3D Universal Indonesia cost estimate for parts: Rp3,975,000 (US$265) including 20% markup for shipping charges. Selling price could be Rp7,950,000 (US$530) for fully built printer and maybe Rp5,962,500 (US$397.50) for kit.

I Still have to run the numbers in the financial projections spreadsheet to check how feasible it is, what the breakeven point is and how much will now be needed for startup as opposed to when I used cost of goods sold as US$500 for D3D Pro and US$300 for Universal, with selling prices Rp22.5million (US$1,500) and Rp14.925million (US$995) for Pro and Universal respectively.

---

Tue Jan 19, 2021

Success at last! I managed to print a tablet holder, a 2hours 50minutes print job, without any issues of filament stopping mid-print. It all had to do with my filament. The previous filament I was using was a no-name cheap quality filament that caused all that trouble printing. I have a new higher quality filament PLA+ and I'm happy to say finally I'm getting much better looking prints.

---

Mon Jan 18, 2021

D3D Pro BOM Indonesia completed. Estimate US$300 to procure parts including shipping.

Working on D3D Universal BOM Indonesia.

---

Thu Jan 14, 2021

Extruder cooling fan is on and confirmed blowing air across extruder nozzle. Fan runs as soon as power is switched on.

Still having filament stopping extruding mid-print, intermittently. Extruder motor feels quite warm, not excessively hot. Today I printed a name tag for my wife (designed on FreeCAD 0.16). Printed for 16minutes and reached the end OK. Print is not so good looking, but I'm proud of it as possibly my first complete print. I have issues with moisture absorbed by filament so print looks rough. I'm planning to buy a filament dryer and better quality filament, hopefully by next Monday.

Z offset needs adjusting. Nozzle too close to print bed, ploughing into print.

Need to learn how to upload smaller size photo.

---

Wed Jan 13,2021

https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/D3D_BOM_Indonesia_Jan2021

---

Sun Jan 10, 2021

Hint: Is your extruder cooling fan on? You seem to have extruder overheat. Fan should be on all the time from when you turn printer on.

Problem: Filament stops extruding mid print. Tried the following solutions:

- Aggressive retraction: Reducing retraction speed from 25mm/s to 12.5mm/s - No joy.

- Increase extruder temperature by 5 deg C to 235 deg C - Still no joy.

- Lowering print speed from 25mm/s to 12.5mm/s - No joy.

After 4 attempts to print Hollow cube at 200%, print still fails with filament not extruding mid print.

Video recording of D3D Pro printing Hollow Calibration cube: https://youtu.be/3XKqUHGs6VM.

Filament stops being extruder after about 4 minutes.

Extruder motor feels hot to touch. Could this be a contributing factor?

---

Sat Jan 02, 2021

Finally cracked it! Extruder was over extruding. Found procedure to calibrate extruder https://www.matterhackers.com/articles/how-to-calibrate-your-extruder?rcode=YTUBE. Extruder (Esteps/mm) original value set was +0425.00. In the end reduced to +0103.11. Finally able to get a decent first print. Not perfect, but at least print resembles what calibration should look like. Useful resource on calibrating 3D printer: (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qddYsbHawno).

First Calibrate extruder.

Next level bed. (Bed levelling doesn't happen automatically when starting print - Have to look into how to make that happen)

Next set 1st layer height (Babystepping Zaxis) then set and Z-offset and Store Memory.

Do calibration prints.

Print bed drops suddenly after printing completed - Have to look into how to stop that happening.

Printing Resources:

Thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/

https://www.myminifactory.com

https://www.yeggi.com

Print Quality Troubleshooting Guide: https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/

Troubleshooting Guide to Common 3D Printing Problems: https://all3dp.com/1/common-3d-printing-problems-troubleshooting-3d-printer-issues/

Time Log

How to log the time? I am getting a "CSRF verification failed. Request aborted" error message.

Spent 7 hours today. 3 hours calibrating extruder. 4 hours getting familiar with printing, making prints, calibration cubes, benchy, baby groot, D3D Pro bed clamp, Micro all in one 3D printer test. Nice having printer humming away in the background.

Next step how to improve print quality. Improve print surface, how to get print surface looking smooth?

---

Wed 30th Dec 2020

Meeting with Marcin. Very interesting and enlightening. Planning to work closer with OSE. Discovered D3D Pro profile can be uploaded directly into Cura. Solved problem of filament reversing out of extruder. Still have problem of setting extruder height above heatbed optimally. When print starts I select "Tune" to "Babystep Z" setting nozzle height just above heat bed. Record Z offset value to add to Z offset in "Control" menu -> "Motion" and then save memory. Problem is as printing continues the heatbed is not being lowered sufficiently at each successive line, result being the nozzle ends up ploughing into the print. Also print of 10mm Hollow cube ends up 28mm tall.

I'm seriously considering OSE mentorship program as the best and quickest possible way to create a viable and profitable business replicating and seling OSE open source machines as well as collaborating to improve the machines to be the best in the world. Business creation to replace lost income source.

Mon Dec 21, 2020

Wiki Bio:    Applied for wiki Account - waiting for approval and password.    Username: kenmakunga. Kenneth Makunga, currently residing in Bandung, Indonesia.    Interested in open source hardware to create profitable businesses.    Currently working on replicating the D3D Pro 3D printer to create a business around that.    I’m a former aircraft maintenance engineer (Avionics), now approaching retirement age.    Currently unemployed which is why I am working on setting up a 3D printer manufacturing company here in Indonesia.

---

22/12/2020

Begin historical log: Thursday 12/11/2020 - Order for D3D Pro kit & registration for Collaborative design webinar done.

Thursday 10/12/2020 - 1st of 2 boxes for kit arrived.    Departed to attend niece’s wedding in Sukabumi 100Km from Bandung, weekend trip.

Monday 14/12/2020 - Unpacked first box.    Checked contents against packing list.    Began assembling idlers and controller. Noticed failed Left Corner print.    Ordered new print from 3dprint.id.    Cost Rp475,000 (~US$34), shipping Rp12,000 (US$0.85).

Monday 14 - Saturday 19 December - working on assembling what I could from 1st box.    Idlers and controller.    D3D Pro build manual needs updating to show assembly using 1-piece axis 3D printed parts.   

   • GFCI included in kit only suitable for 120Vac mains supply.    Using 220Vac here in Indonesia.    Need solution to replace GFCI from kit: Kit GFCI = 67mm long x 33mm wide x 40mm height.
   • Possible solutions:
           ▪ Replace GFCI with a 220vac GFCI - challenge is finding one with similar or same size - search Alibaba;
           ▪ Relace with a traditional Residual Current Circuit Breaker (RCCB) (Rp93,480 ≈ US$6.64) () challenge is size 45mmx45mm and also have to add one socket outlet for USB connector.
           ▪ Use a 220vac to 120vac step-down transformer/converter - how much power (watts) does D3D printer use? Energy usage – 77W for electronics, 30-150W average for heatbed for 50-178C heat bed temperature.    Heat bed max power is 450W.    (Disadvantage: one additional thing to buy, although would be OK for 1st printer.    Subsequent printers modify for 220vac supply).    
                   ◦ 200W converter - Rp222.435 ≈ US$15.57
                   ◦ 300W converter - Rp519,400 ≈ US$36.36
                   ◦ 500W converter - Rp280,000 ≈ US$19.60

Thursday 17/12/2020 - replacement part arrived.    Printed with 0.8mm nozzle, 0.3mm layer.

Saturday 19/12/2020 - 2nd box arrived with remaining kit parts.    The heavy stuff, the steel angles and rods and stepper motors.    Started assembling frame and the axes.    Replacement part looked pretty, but not as tough as OSE printed part when banging away with mallet, replacement part cracked - though not badly - still using it.

---

Tuesday 22/12/2020

installed motors.    Note: motors need to to be installed on axes before axes are attached to frame.    Reason: screws holes for attaching screw for motor not accessible (covered over) when axis attached to frame. Wednesday 23/12/2020 Spent day hunting for step down transformer.    In the end it wasn’t necessary.    I have a voltage stabiliser which we use for our treadmill, to protect against frequent power outages.    Turns out the stabilser also has a 110vac output and its rated at 3000watts.    Still need to find a permanent replacement for GFCI for future builds.    Can’t carry the stabilser around - too big. Installed the drive belts for all the axes.

---

Thursday 24/12/2020

   1. Centering Z axis using a combination square and a spirit level.    Question: how to fix Z axis frame attaching parts so they don’t move?
   • Z axis lower frame attaching part cracking when socket srew inserted    to attach to idler. 
   2. Build Heater Element for Heated Bed: 
       1. Measure fiberglass sleeve - 9’.
       2. Measure and mark off 3.5’; 4.5’; 6” and 6”.    Total 9’.
       3. Apply insulation tape to both sides of mark before cutting.
       4. Cut fiberglass tape on markings.
       5. Measure nichrome wire - 15’.
       6. Wrap nichrome wire round 3.5’ fiberglass sleeve
       7. Feed nichrome wire around sleeve into 4.5’ fiberglass sleeve.    Finicky business.    Wires kept catching on sleeve.    Had to wrap electrical tape around nichrome wire and high temp wire connection so as not to snag on fiberglass sleeve.
       8. Missing 50mm socket screw for heat bed cover plate.    Bought replacement Rp250 ≈ US$0.02
       9. 14” rods for heat bed are a tad too short.    14.5” better I think 14&3/4” (fourteen and three quarter inches)
       10. Began to add controller to frame.    Appears a bit short to span from vertical frame to vertical frame.    Maybe because I didn’t have a heat gun and used a hair dryer (not hot enough) to straighten controller frame so it didn’t come out quite straight.    No worries for now, its my first build and won’t be up for sale.

---

Friday 25/12/2020

Extruder build and controller wiring.    Excellent resource by Irvin Inzurriaga YouTube video showing how to wire D3D Pro printer (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hWzM90JEi8Q).    Extruder build requires heat tightening (Why? Is it due to expansion?).   

       ◦ How to carry out heat tightening when wiring is not yet complete? 
       ◦ What is supply voltage to heater? - 24VDC.

First power-up without complete extruder build.    Idea is to attempt heat tightening of nozzle against heat break.

   • Using 110VAC output from voltage stabiliser unit.
   • Screen lights up OK.
   • Fan runs.
   • No power to heater block… - Go to Control -> Temperature -> Nozzle.    Set temp to 230deg C - Temp rises and heater block gets very hot, very quickly.    Tightened Nozzle against heat break.
   • Wiring and checking X motor rotation and X axis end stop - OK.
   • Wiring and checking Y motors operation and Y axis stop - OK.
   • Wiring and checking Z motors operation and Z axis stop.    Z axis stop OK.    Z motors problem.    Rods holding heat bed too short (or did I assemble incorrectly?).    The 14” rods barely make it to the Z axes carriages.    So when motors try to lift bed, not straight and jams on the way.    Slight mod:    replaced original 14” bed rods with 15” rods.    Now Z axis motors operation OK.
   • Continue to extruder build:
       ◦ Heat tightening done using controller.    Next time just apply 24 vdc to extruder heater cables.
       ◦ Order Loctite semi-permanent thread lock.

---

Saturday 26/12/2020

Completed D3D Pro build.

   • Z axis operation erratic - belt slipping.    Have to use 6mmx10mm set screws to lock Z axis rods in place at idler and motor ends so can tighten belt without rods sliding.
   • Orientation of gantry not clear.    Which way should extruder face?    I have it facing Z1 axis

---

Sunday 27/12/2020

First print on D3D pro - disaster.    Not what I expected - Much more difficult to set printer up correctly to print.    Haven’t managed it yet.

   • How to centre gantry so print start in the middle ( or on the bed)?
   • Having trouble getting the first layer height correct.    What should be gap between nozzle and bed? (paper width?)
   • How far away from bed should Z height probe be?
   • Trouble with bed movement up - closer to gantry Z axis motors appear to jam or slip    - a lot of shuddering motion like bed too heavy for motors to lift.
   • Ultimaker Cura software settings?    Using 3mm PLA filament, layer height 0.4mm, 1.2mm nozzle
   • How to stop filament from retracting when starting print?    Each time print starts the extruder motor retracts and filament comes out of the heat break.
   • How to save settings on LCD controller panel? - the save memory and load memory selections - nothing happens when these are selected.    - (User manual for D3D Pro/Universal explaining all functions of LCD controller.)

---

Mon 28th Dec 2020

Continuing to learn more about actual 3D printing. Cura settings important. Need to buy more filament to practice with.

---