Build Hydraulic Tanks: Difference between revisions
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*Test hydraulic tank with air pressure and soap solution | *Test hydraulic tank with air pressure and soap solution | ||
**Plug 3/4" and 1" bungs for air tightness | **Plug 3/4" and 1" bungs for air tightness | ||
**Connect air | **Screw in suction strainer and reducers down to air hose fitting | ||
**Fill air into suction strainer opening | **Connect air hose | ||
**Fill air into suction strainer opening. | |||
*Grind and weld any pinholes, retest, iterate if needed | *Grind and weld any pinholes, retest, iterate if needed | ||
* | * | ||
[[Category:Fabrication Procedures]] | [[Category:Fabrication Procedures]] |
Revision as of 22:03, 18 June 2011
- [1] Cut 1/4"x6"x12" tube for hydraulic tank
- [2] Cut 1/4"x6"x12" end closures
- Secure 3 bungs - 3/4" for filler/breather, 1" for return line filter, and 2" for suction strainer (extender plus bung proper)
- Torch out 3 bung holes as in last step
- Grind tank edges and bung edges clean wherever bead will be welded. This is a critical step that helps eliminate pinholes after welding.
- Clean edges and bungs
- Ream bungs as necessary for cleaning and fit
- Lay out on welding table
- Close off bungs with fittings to prevent spatter from destroying threads
- Tack everything
- Weld
- Assemble tank
- Test hydraulic tank with air pressure and soap solution
- Plug 3/4" and 1" bungs for air tightness
- Screw in suction strainer and reducers down to air hose fitting
- Connect air hose
- Fill air into suction strainer opening.
- Grind and weld any pinholes, retest, iterate if needed