Ken Log

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HintLightbulb.png Hint: Ken, please put newest entries on top


Sat Jan 02, 2021

Finally cracked it! Extruder was over extruding. Found procedure to calibrate extruder https://www.matterhackers.com/articles/how-to-calibrate-your-extruder?rcode=YTUBE. Extruder (Esteps/mm) original value set was +0425.00. In the end reduced to +0103.11. Finally able to get a decent first print. Not perfect, but at least print resembles what calibration should look like. Useful resource on calibrating 3D printer: (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qddYsbHawno).

First Calibrate extruder.

Next level bed. (Bed levelling doesn't happen automatically when starting print - Have to look into how to make that happen)

Next set 1st layer height (Babystepping Zaxis) then set and Z-offset and Store Memory.

Do calibration prints.

Print bed drops suddenly after printing completed - Have to look into how to stop that happening.


Wed 30th Dec 2020

Meeting with Marcin. Very interesting and enlightening. Planning to work closer with OSE. Discovered D3D Pro profile can be uploaded directly into Cura. Solved problem of filament reversing out of extruder. Still have problem of setting extruder height above heatbed optimally. When print starts I select "Tune" to "Babystep Z" setting nozzle height just above heat bed. Record Z offset value to add to Z offset in "Control" menu -> "Motion" and then save memory. Problem is as printing continues the heatbed is not being lowered sufficiently at each successive line, result being the nozzle ends up ploughing into the print. Also print of 10mm Hollow cube ends up 28mm tall.

I'm seriously considering OSE mentorship program as the best and quickest possible way to create a viable and profitable business replicating and seling OSE open source machines as well as collaborating to improve the machines to be the best in the world. Business creation to replace lost income source.


Mon Dec 21, 2020

Wiki Bio:    Applied for wiki Account - waiting for approval and password.    Username: kenmakunga. Kenneth Makunga, currently residing in Bandung, Indonesia.    Interested in open source hardware to create profitable businesses.    Currently working on replicating the D3D Pro 3D printer to create a business around that.    I’m a former aircraft maintenance engineer (Avionics), now approaching retirement age.    Currently unemployed which is why I am working on setting up a 3D printer manufacturing company here in Indonesia.

22/12/2020

Begin historical log: Thursday 12/11/2020 - Order for D3D Pro kit & registration for Collaborative design webinar done.

Thursday 10/12/2020 - 1st of 2 boxes for kit arrived.    Departed to attend niece’s wedding in Sukabumi 100Km from Bandung, weekend trip.

Monday 14/12/2020 - Unpacked first box.    Checked contents against packing list.    Began assembling idlers and controller. Noticed failed Left Corner print.    Ordered new print from 3dprint.id.    Cost Rp475,000 (~US$34), shipping Rp12,000 (US$0.85).

Monday 14 - Saturday 19 December - working on assembling what I could from 1st box.    Idlers and controller.    D3D Pro build manual needs updating to show assembly using 1-piece axis 3D printed parts.    

   • GFCI included in kit only suitable for 120Vac mains supply.    Using 220Vac here in Indonesia.    Need solution to replace GFCI from kit: Kit GFCI = 67mm long x 33mm wide x 40mm height.
   • Possible solutions:
           ▪ Replace GFCI with a 220vac GFCI - challenge is finding one with similar or same size - search Alibaba;
           ▪ Relace with a traditional Residual Current Circuit Breaker (RCCB) (Rp93,480 ≈ US$6.64) () challenge is size 45mmx45mm and also have to add one socket outlet for USB connector.
           ▪ Use a 220vac to 120vac step-down transformer/converter - how much power (watts) does D3D printer use? Energy usage – 77W for electronics, 30-150W average for heatbed for 50-178C heat bed temperature.    Heat bed max power is 450W.    (Disadvantage: one additional thing to buy, although would be OK for 1st printer.    Subsequent printers modify for 220vac supply).    
                   ◦ 200W converter - Rp222.435 ≈ US$15.57
                   ◦ 300W converter - Rp519,400 ≈ US$36.36
                   ◦ 500W converter - Rp280,000 ≈ US$19.60

Thursday 17/12/2020 - replacement part arrived.    Printed with 0.8mm nozzle, 0.3mm layer.

Saturday 19/12/2020 - 2nd box arrived with remaining kit parts.    The heavy stuff, the steel angles and rods and stepper motors.    Started assembling frame and the axes.    Replacement part looked pretty, but not as tough as OSE printed part when banging away with mallet, replacement part cracked - though not badly - still using it.

Tuesday 22/12/2020

installed motors.    Note: motors need to to be installed on axes before axes are attached to frame.    Reason: screws holes for attaching screw for motor not accessible (covered over) when axis attached to frame. Wednesday 23/12/2020 Spent day hunting for step down transformer.    In the end it wasn’t necessary.    I have a voltage stabiliser which we use for our treadmill, to protect against frequent power outages.    Turns out the stabilser also has a 110vac output and its rated at 3000watts.    Still need to find a permanent replacement for GFCI for future builds.    Can’t carry the stabilser around - too big. Installed the drive belts for all the axes.

Thursday 24/12/2020

   1. Centering Z axis using a combination square and a spirit level.    Question: how to fix Z axis frame attaching parts so they don’t move?
   • Z axis lower frame attaching part cracking when socket srew inserted    to attach to idler. 
   2. Build Heater Element for Heated Bed: 
       1. Measure fiberglass sleeve - 9’.
       2. Measure and mark off 3.5’; 4.5’; 6” and 6”.    Total 9’.
       3. Apply insulation tape to both sides of mark before cutting.
       4. Cut fiberglass tape on markings.
       5. Measure nichrome wire - 15’.
       6. Wrap nichrome wire round 3.5’ fiberglass sleeve
       7. Feed nichrome wire around sleeve into 4.5’ fiberglass sleeve.    Finicky business.    Wires kept catching on sleeve.    Had to wrap electrical tape around nichrome wire and high temp wire connection so as not to snag on fiberglass sleeve.
       8. Missing 50mm socket screw for heat bed cover plate.    Bought replacement Rp250 ≈ US$0.02
       9. 14” rods for heat bed are a tad too short.    14.5” better I think 14&3/4” (fourteen and three quarter inches)
       10. Began to add controller to frame.    Appears a bit short to span from vertical frame to vertical frame.    Maybe because I didn’t have a heat gun and used a hair dryer (not hot enough) to straighten controller frame so it didn’t come out quite straight.    No worries for now, its my first build and won’t be up for sale.


Friday 25/12/2020

Extruder build and controller wiring.    Excellent resource by Irvin Inzurriaga YouTube video showing how to wire D3D Pro printer (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hWzM90JEi8Q).    Extruder build requires heat tightening (Why? Is it due to expansion?).    

       ◦ How to carry out heat tightening when wiring is not yet complete? 
       ◦ What is supply voltage to heater? - 24VDC.

First power-up without complete extruder build.    Idea is to attempt heat tightening of nozzle against heat break. 

   • Using 110VAC output from voltage stabiliser unit.
   • Screen lights up OK.
   • Fan runs.
   • No power to heater block… - Go to Control -> Temperature -> Nozzle.    Set temp to 230deg C - Temp rises and heater block gets very hot, very quickly.    Tightened Nozzle against heat break.
   • Wiring and checking X motor rotation and X axis end stop - OK.
   • Wiring and checking Y motors operation and Y axis stop - OK.
   • Wiring and checking Z motors operation and Z axis stop.    Z axis stop OK.    Z motors problem.    Rods holding heat bed too short (or did I assemble incorrectly?).    The 14” rods barely make it to the Z axes carriages.    So when motors try to lift bed, not straight and jams on the way.    Slight mod:    replaced original 14” bed rods with 15” rods.    Now Z axis motors operation OK.
   • Continue to extruder build:
       ◦ Heat tightening done using controller.    Next time just apply 24 vdc to extruder heater cables.
       ◦ Order Loctite semi-permanent thread lock.

Saturday 26/12/2020

Completed D3D Pro build. 

   • Z axis operation erratic - belt slipping.    Have to use 6mmx10mm set screws to lock Z axis rods in place at idler and motor ends so can tighten belt without rods sliding.
   • Orientation of gantry not clear.    Which way should extruder face?    I have it facing Z1 axis

Sunday 27/12/2020

First print on D3D pro - disaster.    Not what I expected - Much more difficult to set printer up correctly to print.    Haven’t managed it yet. 

   • How to centre gantry so print start in the middle ( or on the bed)?
   • Having trouble getting the first layer height correct.    What should be gap between nozzle and bed? (paper width?)
   • How far away from bed should Z height probe be?
   • Trouble with bed movement up - closer to gantry Z axis motors appear to jam or slip    - a lot of shuddering motion like bed too heavy for motors to lift.
   • Ultimaker Cura software settings?    Using 3mm PLA filament, layer height 0.4mm, 1.2mm nozzle
   • How to stop filament from retracting when starting print?    Each time print starts the extruder motor retracts and filament comes out of the heat break.
   • How to save settings on LCD controller panel? - the save memory and load memory selections - nothing happens when these are selected.    - (User manual for D3D Pro/Universal explaining all functions of LCD controller.)

Mon 28th Dec 2020

Continuing to learn more about actual 3D printing. Cura settings important. Need to buy more filament to practice with.

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