Soil Mixer - Overall Machine - Fabrication Drawings

• work in progress

Preparing the Bucket

• Take P3 (Part 3) Bottom Sheet for bucket and lay flat.

• Tack weld backplate (P1) using a set square at a 90 degree angle on top of P3, don't finish the weld until the sidewalls have also been tacked.

• Mount bearings with bolts loosely on the side plates. Put sidewalls into place, and then stick Shaft 21 through the bearings to ensure proper alignment of side walls.

• Tack sidewall P4 on the end, ensuring it matches the diagram and is on the correct side. Repeat with sidewall P5.

• Finish the welds (on both sides of the seams?) for all seams along P1,P3,P4,P5

• Tack 7 into place with proper distance of x from the edge of sidewall. Put in both 6's and tack. Tack in the second 7.

(*Lay a frame on the ground from 2 pieces of P6 and 2 pieces of P7. Do not weld yet. This is to become the seal for the mixer, and a support for the lid (P2) when closed. Check the seal dimensions with the dimensions of the lid. In the total length, the seal should have an extra 1/4" on each side from the lid. In the total height, the seal should be equal or slightly larger than the lid, but not smaller.)

(*Take away lid P2 after verifying these dimensions, Place the seal inside the bucket at a 45 degree angle.)

• Tack weld the 4 seams for the seal into the bucket and ensure they don't warp, and are straight. Grind out the extra material around the welds on seems P6-P7 on the seal so the lid will sit flush on top.

• Bolt the bearing onto Rotor Bracket P23, using 5/8" (verify?) bolts going through to P4. Ensure the nuts are on the inside of the bucket.

• Bolt the other bearing onto the outside of P5 using 5/8" bolts. Ensure the nuts are on the inside of the bucket.

Tyne Fabrication Process

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Driveshaft

• Mill a slot into the end of the driveshaft (? is a mill needed for this?) for the key.

Check that the key on the driveshaft will a fit with the coupler. Weld the key into the drive shaft.

• Mill or grind out a flat on the shaft P21 in the section for the Tyne's collars to lock on.

• Thread the Driveshaft P21 through the bearings with the key on the correct side of the bucket (same side as motor, see diagram). Place the Tynes onto the shaft as it is being threaded through.

Drive

• Take the Motor mount plate P30 and use the motor as a guide to place 2x 1/2" threaded rods into the holes of P30. Remove the motor and tack these in place in single spots. verify they are straight by placing the motor in place as a guide again. Remove the motor and finish tacking the bolts in place, ensure they are straight and finish the welds.

• Bolt P30 onto P24, and the motor. Attach the coupler on the motor to the drive shaft.

• Fit the motor and coupler to the driveshaft P21. Thread the 12" long, 1" threaded rods through p24 towards P23 with nuts to fasten down (4 nuts for each rod). Fasten 2 nuts, one on the either side of P24 for each rod. Fasten 2 nuts, one on either side of P4 and p23 to sandwich them. tack the 4x large 1" nuts on the other side of P4 remove the bolts and finish the welds (? do we weld p23 ?)

• Put the bolts back in place. the motor attachment to the rotor should be complete.

Teeth

Procedure

1. Take 18
2. Lay 19 flat
3. Weld 18 with 1" overlap onto center of 19
4. Weld 20 to make 1/2" of 19 (cutting knife) exposed at the cutting edge
5. Repeat for the total 12 teeth
6. Weld 4 teeth at the proper spacing (4" on center ? and 2" on center from edge ? ) to part 15 (tooth bar bolt bar), with X inches overlap between 18 and 15
7. Repeat for the 2 other parts 15
8. Grind teeth at 45 degree angle with tooth bar weldment in a vise
9. Water harden or air harden the teeth by heating to red hot with acetylene torch and then dunking in water

Quality control Checklist

1. Make sure that 18 and 19 overlap by 1"
2. Make sure that 18 and 19 are centered with respect to one another
3. Make sure that 1/2" of cutting knife is exposed, and that 1/4" is exposed after grinding
4. Make sure that 15 is oriented with the holes pointing away from the teeth
5. Make sure that the angle between 15 and 18 is 90 degrees

Quick Attach Lip

• Tack 2x P34 ends onto the outside of P1, using p10 as a guide. Tack p10 in place and finish the welds along all seams on the inside and outside for these parts.

• Use the Lifetrac with QA Plate to fit under the lip.

• Ensure a fit for the bolts on P13 (x2). Bolt in place, and tack the P13 parts to P1. Unbolt and remove the QA plate now that these 2 bolt plates can be welded correctly in place. weld the seams between P13 and P1

Lid

• Tack P25 at a 90 degree angle along the length of the bottom of the lid.

• Tack 2x P26 Lid Struts onto the ends of the end at a 90 degree angle. Ensure a 1/4" space for 2x P29 to fit later.

• Place the lid into the seal, so that it rests with equal clearance on the left and right side (should be 1/4" each side). ensure the top and bottom edges are flush with the top and bottom of the seal edges. you may need to position something at the base to keep it from sliding out of place. this will be used as a guide for the hinges.

• Measure positions for 2x P31 hinges on the ends of the QA Lip P10. From the top edge of the QA Lip P10 to the edge of the hinge P31 should be 5.2". note this distance is not form the top of the bucket P1. Also ensure the outside faces of the hinges are flush with lid struts P26 on the ends. when these are measured correctly tack them, check measurements, test threading the shaft through, and weld the hinges in place along the seams with P10.

• Take out the shaft part way and thread on in order

P33

a washer

P31

P11

a washer

Cylinder base

a washer

P11

P31

a washer

P33

This is a temporary arrangement to get the hinge in place and centred. Later we will remove the cylinder, washers, and P11 parts.

• Measure to centre the 2x P11 and 2x P31 parts along the QA Lip. the 2x P31 centre hinges should be aligned with the 2x P31 outer hinges along the QA Lip P10 with the 5.2" distance shown previously.

• Be careful in this stage not to weld any of the other parts as they need to be removed. only Tack (dont finish weld yet) the outer seams only of P31 onto the QA lip.

• Carefully take out the shaft and remove the washers, cylinder and P11 supports. place the shaft back in with the p33 parts still loose as they were before.

• Take the Hydraulic Cylinder Base and bolt inside the 2x P11 Cylinder supports. Use a washer between the cylinder and both P11 parts as before.

• Get someone to hold the cylinder base so the the very bottom edges of the P11 supports are aligned with the bottom edges of the P31 hinges and clamp them together (use 2x G-clamps) . leave enough clearance with the clamp to later weld on the seams.

• Using a set square to ensure P11 and P31 are perpendicular to P10, Tack all seams between P11, P10, and P31

• Finish the welding the seams on these parts and remove the clamps.

Left Lid Hydraulic Attachment to Hinge

• Lightly clamp P33 onto P31 maintaining the 90 degree angle in the joint as in the diagram. since there is a washer in between on the shaft, 2 clamps may be required to keep everything flat.

• Take P26 and place flat onto the outside of the hinge P33. Tack P26 onto lid and then onto P33. Finish welding all the seams between the three parts.

• Ensuring the Hydraulic cylinder is about .5" back from full extension, bolt 2x P14 cylinder struts on with spacer and washers on both sides of P14 Parts (4 washers, 2 spacers total)

• Rotate the cylinder about the base to get the first P14 strut in position. it should be flat against the inside of P33. tack in place, ensure it is perpendicular to the lid with a set square and finish welding the seams.

Right Lid Hydraulic Attachment to Hinge

• Repeat this process with the right side

• Weld the 2x P27 Gussets in place against P14 and the P2 Lid.

Top Lid Struts

• The 2x P29 pieces can now be tacked and welded onto the lid between the P26 Lid struts and P33 Hinges.

Shaft

• Take out the shaft enough to give some clearance on the left end (End nearest to motor). Weld one of the end washers on, staying clear of the second washer.

• Put the shaft back and measure and mark a distance on the other side of the shaft to put a cotter pin through.

• Carefully take out the shaft all the way and drill the hole for the cotter pin.

• Fit the shaft back with all washers and lid in places.

Hydraulics

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Digging teeth

open the lid after testing hydraulics, place a support underneath the lid for safety, and lift the bucket off the ground using the Lifetrac arms.

Fit the 3x p15 plates with digging teeth and 1" bolts.