Seed Eco-Home 4 Data Collection

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Trellis

  • 3/25/23 - 1:10 (70 min): 3 bands of ply n last trellis. Screws to hold, then 1.75" siding nails. Protruding nails bent w hammer at end.1:45 - final joist attachment with the 2.5" joist hanger screws. This time included assembling the last short side (frame). To summarize - the frame of trellis involves: marking and attaching joist hangers. Cutting the joists. Initial assembly with scrwes--Inserting joists and putting [2] 5" screws on the trim side, and 1 3" 1/4" screw on the joist hanger side to suck the joist into the joist hanger - otherwise there are always gaps. Final assembly step is the 2.5" joist hanger screws. 1:00 - attach all plywood (2 long, 1 short - with the short attaching only one 9.75" piece (using scraps, so it takes longer). 1 hr includes only the first strip of 3 of the scraps.
  • 3/24/23 - 3:53 total (233 min). Attaching joist hangers to make frame. 1 hr to attach all joist hangers (3 trellises) with nailer. 45 min to cut all joists? 1 hr each long trellis - to assemble joists on 44' of strand to make the frame (minus the 2.5" joist hanger screws. It takes time to suck in the 5" long screws, then the third screw on joist hanger side to suck joist into hanger (ready for 2.5" after joists are sucked in - not before!). Also hammered end joist hangers flat so that I could use the same joist hanger - DIY end joist hanger. But, reinforced with 5" screw as the end joist hanger went into end grain.
  • 3/23/23 - 5:15 hrs (315 min). 2.5 hrs to join 2 rim joists of frame into a 44' strand using scabs, + mark all locations for joist hangers.. 1 hr each for the 44' trellis, 30 min for the 19' trellis. The 19' already had the strand with the joist hangers attached. Bent a joist hanger to make it an end joist hanger. About 2:45 more moving more materials - so it turns out most work was logistics and could be eliminated in the future now that we know the workflow. Moving materials on roof involved laying out everything on roof as in Step 2 of Trellis Build Procedure [1]. Roof is 44'4" at front, 44'3" at back, and exactly 16'1" front to back accounting for OSB - so 16' is perfect, and we are 2 & 3 inches over on front and back respectively. Thus if we move the materials into position when we put the materials on the roof - we save ourselves the 2 hours or so of moving the materials into place. The 2 hours was long as there was some cleanup/disorganization from prior work and from moving things around. Nonetheless, the actual time should go from 5:15 hrs to only 2.5 hrs, with the rest of the time included in the power laddering of all materials to roof, and laying them out ready to build the long strands.
  • Figured out trellis drop motion with 3 gear worm winches.
  • 2:37 hr (157 min) - up to putting on the two white trims and bottom trim (to be stained) on trellis on the trellis, moving in position - ready for hoisting. Figuring out screwing. Most time figuring things. Count the final trellis build from other side. Relevant steps - no scabs on ply, attach ply to frame, screw from back with clamp. Intensive screw schedule needs correct screws.
  • 5 hrs - Built the first side trellis (up to plywood, no trim) + one extra 19' runner with hangers. Cut joists. Took 1:45 to build a complete 19', marked, and added joists + scab. Second time once all set up: took 35 minutes to make a 19' 2x6 with all joist hangers attached. Notes: don't worry about straightness and flatness - use the flat roof runners as a base. Once all joists are cut, 2 strings are automatically parallel. Used strong drive screws to pinch the wood together. I would perhaps just use those and not joist hangers? One into each end. Cheaper and apprears stronger than joist hangers. So just use 2 per end - 4 screws per joist. No joist hanger! Engineering calls for joist hangers on house side, but 5" SDSW screws on outer side. Observation appears that the screws are stronger, as they clamp the 2 runners very tight. Screw Withdrawal from End Grain vs Perpendicular to Grain
  • 1:30 - began building trellis. Cut 2x6 to size (not joists), cut ply and scabs to make 19' total length of plywood assembly. Marked all joist locations with double line. No cut of joists. Single strand of 2x6. Decided to do double.
  • 2 hr - Paint all trellis trim - 30 min setup, 50 min first coat, 40 min second coat. With roller. 2 hr wait between coats - on a windy 60F day on roof..
  • 0:16. Finished hoisting 4 sets of 3 strips of ply. 4 minutes per trip - including walking myself. 2x-3x faster if had 2 people. 2 min max round trip of 40'. 40 fpm hoist speed - 20' up. 1 minute just travel time.
  • 95 min - hoisting. Inefficiently, until rope snapped. Got all materials up except for 19.25" strips of ply. 2x6, 1x12, 1x6, 1x4 treated all went up.
  • 45 min - cutting 3/4" ply
  • 30 min - Materials collection from yard

Vinyl Siding

  • Mar 8 - 5:30 hr. Front vinyl finished. Included doing last bit above windows. Then the full course above windows. Second course above the windows got the backing for trellis - 2 rows of 1.5" and 2.5" bands as backing, 3/8" from beadboard. Then 2 more courses above that - the one above could be done only from ladder. Only the very top full course could be done from roof, but that is slow as it's done on the belly inching over like a worm. The very last partial course - cut to about 3.5" - was caulked in to the former, no undersill trim for that. Vinyl hours for front including j-channel and and starter strip - 29 hours.
  • Mar 7 - 5:30 hr. Started with cutouts above windows. Was fighting one piece that did not want to align over the leftmost windows. Did 3 cutouts like this, for 2 windows each. Rest was all ladder work - rather slow. But good news is we can dofrom scaffolding all way up to top cutouts of windows, with 2 layers above that on ladder, with 2 final (full and prtial) from the roof. The trellis does end up on no man's land.
  • Mar 5 - 5 hr siding almost finished to top of 2nd story windows.
  • Mar 4 - 5 hr siding one strip down from second story windows.
  • Mar 3 - 8 hr. Up to vinyl to first floor window cutouts. Did J channel, starter strip, above door (canopy) trim in 3 hrs. 5 hrs for siding to now. The measuring aligning takes long. 9 nails per strip should take 1 minute. Minute to place. Minute to cut. 3 minute cycles. 20 strips per hour. 200 sf/hr. 3000 sf in 15 hr

House + Garage Trim

  • Mar 2 - 400 min 6:4O tot. 2 hr spray stain garage mostly T1-11. Ok. Key was mixing paint well. Spray is way faster as otherwise need to brush cracks. Sometimes stain doesn't absorb and must be smeared with rag - ex on treated lumber. 4:40 - measure, make , hang 2 corners. Way long. Front had unequal lengths. No scrails on edge. Also too short to attach to house. Increase speed by equalizing, and making measurement unnecessary with known heights? Also, shims needed to make corner fit, also some under J chan as house is not straight enough.
  • Mar 1 - 490 min - 8:10 hr total. 4:40 to do garage door trim. Top Railing: 1:30 to add 1.5". Paint: 2 hr (45 min spray, 1:15 to do one side of 20' with roller. Top railing: included finish the bottom end 1x4 on balcony. Overcut 24 feet since drain edge doesn't need it. Cut from 1x stock. Garage trim: Ridiculous. Procedure should be: left and right angle posts, measure between, build 3rd top angle between span. Cut down 1.5" and use as balcony trim. Instead: did first, did half of 3rd, then did 2nd. Nightmare to cut in place including recip saw, put spacers behind, and form angles. Preferred procedure is to use screws (not trim screws) for angle formation, or use 2 screws, rest being scrails. Spacers behind were used. Don't need many. Without spacers should work - keep eye on vertical with bullet level. Instead of 4:40, should be more like 2 hr or 1:30. Use trim screws to align 2 members butting if needed.
  • Feb 28 - 250 min 4:11 to do the 1x8 on the garage, 1x4 at bottom, 2 north corner angles from whites (to fit to the railing). Also cut down T1-11 on garage as it was not flat with main house.
  • Feb 27 -180 min 3 hr - top 1x10 of the garage. Mitered corners [2].
  • Feb 26 - moved beadboard into garage. 3 hrs - tractor + reshuffle + cover things from rain.
  • Feb 25 60 min staining - 1 hr - stain garage door lumber, and back of the house verticals. Includes setup, layout, touchup. Painted on the ground on the straw surface. Needs second coat. Could be streamlined - think carefully about layout. Ex. Back boards stained on side of house closer to back.

Windows

  • Feb 24 - 2:26 hr to make 4 more integrated window trim assy for second floor. 2:45 to install 5 more of these on the second floor with 12' scaffolding
  • Feb 23 - 3 hr first window up to mounting. 54 minutes second window trim. 30 minutes to cut all treated back layer for 4 windows. Also finished up door trim, 30 minutes - detail of alignment and shimming behind to close gaps.

Double Door

  • Door triangular trim correction [3] - 3 hours. Picky in terms of spacing, angle, flatness of wall, specific length. Had to redo: first, cut top door trim same length as top correction trim. House trim is 4.75" longer on each side. Second, the top correction sticks out an 1/8", so am moving the sides forward with shims. This is the type of custom work that eats up lots of time.
  • See Build Finishing
  • Door install part 2: 1.5 hr. Trimmed off the bolt blocking tab to open door, and inserted/trued the door.
    • Ultimate procedure is 1. Open door to attach 1 hinge, plumb-plumb-level (3 dimensions). Door closure on opening door was cut. Before that, removed the 5 extra screws, 2 movinghandles. Forgot to caulk on bottom . Sides do not touch, so were not caulked behind casing trim.
    • 2. Close door insert shims on 2 other hinges, open door and remove 1 screw to finish off the working (opening) door hinges. If still p2l (plumb-plumb-level) - add second screw on top.
    • 3. Open fixed door, p2l the top hinge. Mark p2l location, close door, shim, open door, fix shim in correct marked location.
    • 4. Note the door can still parallel with 2 top hinges. If you remove the bottom 2 attachments on the moving door! For next time - I would still lock the right hinges fully - and if door is parallelogrammed (skewed in a plane) (it was the case here) then wedge from the bottom on the corresponding side to unparallellogram the door. To do this correction step, only the top hinge on moving door must be fixed.
    • You must work the shims very carefully, and observe miniscule changes. This is a great case of The Chinese Wise Man Once Told Me.
    • To summarize: 1. Fix top hinge on moving door. 2. Fix side. 3. Fix other top hinge. 4. Check for parallelogramming - this will be an error that happens if foundation is not level. This will get you a perfectly closing door. 5. Final step is fix top middle of door frame to house frame, using shims again.
    • How to recognize quality: 0. Visually it is from quick glance not crooked. 1. Space between 2 doors and frame is same throughout on top. 2. Vertical space between 2 doors is equal. 3. Bolt mechanism goes into holes easily and readily. 4. Door closes flat, no part of door face protrudes from frame in closed position.
    • To summarize the failure point: if foundation is not level, you can still get a perfectly closing door. This door will be square, but it will be slightly tilted to one side when looking at the door, following its placement on the uneven foundation. If this is 1/2" or less, ok. If larger, may consider shimming under door. Such as 6 layers of EPDM scrap strips are 1/4" thick. Could use rolled up pieces of EPDM to achieve the correct shimming. If 1/2" - use 1/2" OSB, etc.
  • Door install part 1: 1.5 hr. Feb 18 - 1.5 hr - flashing + insert door, started on fixing one upper hinge, but got stuck on faulty bolt latch on top. There was an easy solution - cutting off a tab that prevented the bolt from moving down further with a multitool in about 30 seconds without damaging the tab. See video tape for cutoff. Procedure was to put in the vycor on front face, cut and fold away. Then caulk. Then put in flexible pan (Future Flash) as a U in the door frame, then cut and fold down toward ground. Forgot the flashing corner on bottom, used it on top. Still have to install the sill support, which will be caulked. Also, walls were not plumb, so door comes out 3/4" on top, meaning bottom has 1-1/4" of casing thickness off the wall on bottom (flush) and 2" on top (3/4" gap). Need a triangular trim to fix that.
    • Method for door transport is 4 blocks screwed in to inner front face with 2 3" screws each, to lay 2 2x4s across the front as convenent handles for final insertion with 1 person (remove handles on side. Then one vertical 2x4 on back side pf 2 'rails' as added handle. Then one person can grab by the bottom rail and middle handle and using the thigh to help, lift the coor teh 8 or so inches. I used a 2" tall platform to reduce from 10" to 8" of lift, which is minimal and can be done with one strong person (207 lb + about 20 lb of 2x4 or 227 lb total). Can go higher on platform if needed.
    • For transport, 2 rails lay on top of truck bed. Door is put on its side, and slid up by the rails. Another 2x is attached to lock the rails to the gate so door is fixed horizontally to truck bed - cannot slide back, and can move little to the sides - ie - moving the door moves the truck (test for solid attachment). When loading on to truck bed, lean against side, not from gate side, and lift bottom side starting at a 45 degree angle so not too much lifting is done. Works great, is doable with one person.
    • The 2 rails serve 3 purposes: loading and unloading from top of pickup bed; rails for moving the door on the ground without damaging; handles enabling final raise of door into elevated (8" elevation) door hole.

Foundation Flashing

  • Feb 17 - 4:20. 4 hrs to finish (layering 2x 1" to get 2" where it was flat with wall on West side). 20 minutes for large rivets. All in all: digging out insulation that separated from wall was about 1/4 the time, another 1/4 for getting to correct thickness, 1/4 time fighting the narrow tab. 4x faster next time. Some time spent fighting the 3/4" tab, which tended to push down and lower the assembly when the nail gun was used. Extend to 1.5" tab for total comfort. Probably move to 14" vinyl trim. All together 14:40 hr for foundation trim (hell) and it should go down to 3-4 hrs.
  • Feb 16 - 7 hrs, from 2-10 with dinner. Went all way up to back left corner.
  • Feb 15 - string line for foundation trim, + trimming excess house wrap. 1 hr. 1 hr for digging in first piece of trim, cutting and wedge-shaping more insulation. Working from 1 in plan around garage corner. Nightmare indeed. Just learning curve. Need plan for making this process-inegrated - to match sill plate with consideration of foundation trim.
  • Feb 14 - 2 hr - bending 10 pieces of 10" vinyl, 16' long including cuttings from coil. 15 minutes to cut 10 from 4 rolls. More time is spent getting the machine, travel time, etc. Maybe just bring roll over next time, set up on a trailer in front of the rental place. Ask for this possibility.

Exterior Trim

  • 1:41 - Painting one edge + Coat 2 - 1:40 hr. Laid same trim on the side to paint the edge, did all at once. All except for 3/8x12. Second coat was needed. Put fan on ceiling and ran heater. Drying temp is 38F inside at 4 PM, goes down to 18F by 7 AM. Will it work? Maybe will go in there to cover the second floor hole more effectively or cover the 2nd floor door which will be leaking cold air. Full bottle of propane is 37 lb, 17 lb when empty. [4]
  • 1:24 hr - Coat 1
  • 40 min - lay out plastic, lay out 29 boards. 15 1x4, 4 1x6, 8 1x8 1 3/8x12, 1 1x2.
  • 1 hr - cleaning space: leaf blower + 3 fans, blows all the dust esp from concrete cut.
  • 15 min. Cut sill plate on main door, take out nails, cut sill gasket with recip wood blade.

Garage Deck

  • Mon Feb 13 - 5 hr total work- 2.5 hr on front side House wrap + T1-11. Included one last top plate. 2 hr more for back side House wrap + t1-11. And protruding panel on front side. Used 3 2x6 as rollers to punch down or stretch the pond liner. Then finished bedroom house wrap, another 15 min. Needed to fix one hole - nail not punched down all the way, but layers below protected pond liner as intended. Another was scissors dropped point on. Not sure if hole was made. All together, about 2 pm to 10 pm.
  • Sun Feb 12 - 2 hours figuring out pond liner + carpet. Pond liner is not flat. Seam on carpet must be clean.
  • 2 hr -Lay out 2 layers of poly (4 mil) as base, with EPDM lready there - added poly, tar paper.
  • Cant strip cut -45 min. Included figuring things out. Cutting 72 feet of cant strip, 1" on short sides, using angle on cordless Dewalt skil saw. It is easy here to cut off a corner from standard 2x lumber, and still use the lumber elsewhere for 0 extra materials usage.

Concrete

  • 1:15 hr, 3 cuts, 66' total including marking and managing 3 fans plus several generator overloads per cut

PV Runners

  • 2:50 hr - 50 more straps (25 runner ends) attached. Steps: 1. Bend down the straps for locations 2. Paste down strip of butyl tape. 3. Mark hole locations with marker by tracing though actual holes. 4. Lay a circle of water stop around the 8 holes. 5. Nail down. Start with a long 2" or 3" galvanized nail. 2" of nail is needed for full penetration, I used 3" as I didn't have them.
  • 1:50 to attach all straps to runners (56 straps, 14 runners), and to attach the first 3 of 28 to the wall. Attachment means typ 5 nails, 2 are long (3") and rest 1.5". Under is butyl tape and water stop for the punctures. Time included cut of [3] 36" steps to 11" pieces as I was short 6 straps. Gauge 16 for the 36", ga 18 for others. Tin snips work to notch 2 sides, then break along fracture by bending. Saves you a skil saw blade.
  • 1:10 to mark all columns (28 marks)
  • One hour to lift 2x6x16 treated runners on the roof - one person.
    • Put in .22 screw at 9 foot mark for lifting with a rope and carabiner around screw, screw pointed down at 45 degrees so carabiner does not slip off.
    • Took off truck and leaned against the garage
    • Went up to the garage and lifted them individually, leaned against railing. Took screw out.
    • Leaned them against the ladder to the roof
    • Lifted them to the roof, sliding up one another at about 50 degree angle against ladder to not damage the EPDM.
    • Did that in 2 batches of 7 for 14 total.
    • Hard part is the weight. Some are literally 2x as heavy if wet.
  • Do not lift in one go from ground up 20' with rope as above - unless there is some power assist.. Difficult to get over the edge, as the lumber is heavy enough that it can pull you off the roof if you slip.
    • I did this for one. When over the edge, lumber was on 3/4" rope. Rope pressure against edge, with lumber on top, punctured the EPDM! EPDM is not as strong as I would like.
    • I had my tool belt, with needle nose pliers sticking out. Point of pliers went into the EPDM as I put my weight on my belly on the pliers, lifting over the edge. Another hole in EPDM from the pliers - the soft insulation underneath allows poking through. If substrate were solid, hole would likely not happen. Now at 3 holes - one hole initially from using clamps to try to pull the EPDM when it was frozen.

EPDM

  • 2:45 hrs. Front drip cap. Starts with string line, predeilled 10' drip cap in 3 places, install 44' of drip cap, apply 44' of water stop, apply termination bar with 22 screws per 10' section. Redid 1.5 sections because term bar was 1" above drip cap, mistake because top edge of drip cap was mistaken for bend of drip cap so went too high with term bar. Watch for this - under EPDM - can bend drip cap down so back comes off wall and it looks like back is the drip cap bend - making for 1" error. Probably would not happen if it were not night or ice conditions.
  • Spent around an hour massaging the EPDM to break up ice stiffness and stuckage. After that, it is easy to move around.
  • 30 min - EPDM unroll into position in icy conditions (stiffness from ice pockets from recent melted snow). Got to 8"-10" overhang on front, 10.5" in each side, rest on back.
  • EPDM edge unscrew - 20 minutes, 120' perimeter. Under icy conditions.
  • Window replacement - 12 minutes to screw in window, see hole pattern in pictures. Including drip cap, already pre-cut.

Insulation Installation

  • 5 hours total. Steps: lay down 66 sheets, screw down 3 screws with washers per, cutting edges to fit, cutting some broken pieces, fixing some broken corners; tape up all seams on top including some breaks and some seams in layers below, roll EPDM temporarily over it to protect it. Packing tape dispenser works great.

Rigid Foam Moving

  • Using 600 lb hoist - easy to load 24" thick pallets or buns. Up time is quick. Don't get stuck on house wrap. Lift over edge by leveraged tie to other side of bun. From 6:30 start - took to 7:50 for 3 buns. Need about 4 total. This is one person, so bigger time is tying up and walking down + up ladders. Material lift machine would help here, should build an add-on for LifeTrac.
  • 1.5" layer - 16' house depth is 2 sheets minus 3" cut
  • Second layer staggered only in 3" direction. With blown off insulation, do 2' stagger.
  • Back to original pattern on 3rd layer.

House Wrap

  • Summary: will be easier next time not having to fight existing house wrap. Also, probably work from bottom up, where corners are difficult due to underlappin? Better yet - work from second row, so top is still done with full sheet, taking advantage of using the roof instead of scaffolding or ladders at height, definitely use the roof to drop 10 feet, from which point height is manageable. This is especially for when a manlift cannot fit in tight spaces or mud prevents access.
  • Note - this seems to miss the second layer of insulation - front of house to left side. Missed that somewhere in the data collection.
  • 5 hr - finished remaining house wrap (Feb 11, 23). Started at garage corner, all around to finish. did 3rd small strip at bottom, which was 2-4 feet wide. This was due to slope of roof. To make house wrap more even, start at high side and cut off extra, do not try to do the small sland of roof and then even it out. Did it on ladder, ok. Did not use a support to hold the roll off the ground.
  • 3 hr for 120 feet. 1200 sf. One roll plus small bit. Hooked on top. Used tiedown strap plus clamp to hold at top ridge. See pix. Stinger stapled at top and bottom with 5 middle feet blank. Careful not to bust out windows!
  • Calculation from video: 10 seconds on 3 sec timelapse - 12 minutes for 44'. Thus, the layer (120' long perimeter around house), should take only about 1/2 hour. Roll change at 100' with 100' rolls, which would add setup time. Take away message: setup is critical to workflow. The more that a facility can be 'set up already' - the better. This is the key challenge that Flexible Fabrication needs to solve in a multipurpose facility: how to be set up at all times for a multitude of tasks? For OSE, that means shifting from building houses, to 3D printers, to tractors, etc.
  • For the bottom stapling at 6' - 8 seconds for 24' - using Time Lapse Calculator - about 10 minutes - or for 120' - 50 minutes. Thus, top layer with top and bottom stapling - takes 1 hr 20 min. Actual time was 3 hours (once unrolling mechanism was figured out)

Taping

  • Complicated by: blocking corrections, House wrap in the way; ambiguity in which is nailed, some 1" strip missing; nails sticking inside, screws sticking outside; redo of top band, which was not connected to roof joists, and roof joists not connected by wide band at top of 2nd floor. Ties at garage, house wrap stuck between modules.
    • Future exterior nail and tape: bottom OSB to sill plate. Mid band- wide joists to first floor blocking to 2nd floor blocking. Top floor lip - to roof joists. Top band - to roof joists, to roof box. Corners - short side flange to front and back. Rework this.

Nailing Off

  • Garage straps - 10D nails take 15 sec each with Ridgid palm nailer and constant nail feed. Nail feed is important. Some places it won't go in, hammered in. Much less force than a good hammer. If 60 nails per strap, expect 30 minutes. 6D nails would likely half the time, so do it at the framing stage. Here used longer nails for going thru OSB.
  • Jan 14, 15, 16, 17 - 2 half days and 2 ful days taping, figuring out scaffold, finishing hurricane ties in garage, redoing 2 windows (1 day). For taping rate - see video tape. Taping - 2 inefficient days of going around obstacles, and setting up scaffolds. Estimated production rate for taping seams - 8' per minute.
  • Jan 13 - 2 hr to nail 2nd floor sill, top plate, joints between walls, and corners. Plus 42 blocking corrections nailed. See steps [5]
  • Jan 12 - 4 hr - tested 2-story scaffolding. Corrected 42 errors in blocking on 2nd floor, moving to first floor. Corrected but not nailed.

Garage Front Wall and Railing Framing

  • (4.5 hr tot = 350 min) Took 2.5 hours to do the front top wall, then another 2 hr to finish nailing board, hurricane ties, top plate. All together promise remains of 1.5 hr total instead of 4.5 hrs. 1" inaccuracy + spacers + bend of header + alignment added all the time.
  • Railing - (180 min) 1 hour per post. 3 hours total up to cutting + installing railing top plate and fitting/screwing down 3 posts under, with EPDM layer underneath. Included T1-11 on the sides.
  • Railing - (135 min) 2.25 hr for all the rails. If had 20' pieces would half this time. Included insect closure at bottom.
  • Railing - (225 min)3.75 hr for all the sheathing + its blocking. Included cutouts around garage door, using vertical sheeting. For railing outside it's horizontal (used 10' sheets). For inner railing - vertical T1-11.

Garage Front Wall

  • Garage header bent inwards towards garage about 1". Made the top modules curve accordingly at top. Best solution - attach modules to top of header, then use top plate + string line to align everything. If difficult to align to header - use blocking to suck in the modules even [6]. Once aligned, nail off the blocking to garage. Used spacer where deck was 1" from the front garage walls. Ideally good quality control means all goes into place without 1" distance discrepancies. Right garage wall was 1"-1.5" too long - hence the gap at the right side of front top garage wall.
  • Used a nailing board for front top garage hurricane ties - added a 3" board from the underside, screwed through deck (watch dangerous screws) and nailed off from the edge side from inside the garage. This nailing board should be installed prior to front top garage wall (at the joist phase) as one side of nailing board is inaccessible due to blocking on garage wall modules. Hurricane ties are a known material but this would likely need to be engineered.

Logistics Notes

  • Experiment - can a house be finished with [5] 40' trailer loads directly from the store?
  • Most effort of house build is materials movement if you stop and think about it. Typical: store to site. Site to storage. Storage to module build. Module storage. Module transport. Module storage on site. Module installation. How can we short circuit from store to module installation in 1 step instead of 5 steps?
  • Ex. 1/8/23 - half to whole day to load up trailer and deliver all materials at height in house. Used trailer to stand on. 2 bath tubs, railing, garage finish at top. Loading up lumber, posts, sheet, etc. Included cleaning site, sweeping out rain water, folding up and drying fallen housewrap, removing excess materials from built time, sweeping, cleaning tubs that got dirty in transport, organizing the foam insulation, haying for mud, moving trailer in. Still need to mow down more area at FeF for better trailer movement. Took from 2 PM to 10:40 PM to load trailer from FeF (16 sheets, all lumber railing, front garage modules, 2 shower tubs [7]).

Budgeting

  • $85k was budgeted for labor. $40k was spent due to severe understaffing, major omission being professional builders. Early termination by 2 days due to harsh conditions.

Framing

  • 48 minutes to do front top garage module (for triple strap tiedown). Using already cut members. Most of the lumber was available, did not need to cut any.
  • 1 hr 7 minutes to do 3 modules, front garage top, simple. Blocking and bottom/top was already cut, I had to cut verticals. Adding cutting would add 5 minutes to time per module? See pictures. Simple modules have 9 members.
  • 50 minutes demo for one full simple 9' module build, including detailed quality control with unruly wood - during workshop.


Foundation

  • Total foundation time: 69 hrs. SLightly better than 500 sf - which would take 93 hours is scaled to this size.
    • Revisited total: 9.5+5+27+27.5=69 hr total from breaking ground for 1104 sf. 25% faster. ok.
  • Concrete summary calc from December- 27 prep, 15 pour prep (8 am till 1 with 3) + 6 hr pour (3 people 2 hrs until scree) + 5 hr floating in extremely slow drying time. Total concrete time = 53 hr. This was 1104 sf compared to 500 sf last time at 42 hours, so scaling is favorable: 1.7 times faster than the 500 sf.
  • Wed Dec 7 - 14 hrs (Savannah work, not Maysville foundation) Casey and Aidan on Bobcats from noon to 6, Aidan till 8 PM. I set up the site for 3 hours, talked to neighbors, packed up portopotty.
  • Pour - 27.5 hr
    • Tue Dec 6 - 19.5 hr till finish of pour with 3 people from 8 to 2:30 PM. Got gravel level, did poly, rebar, chairs, mudsill anchors recessed - then I until 8 PM floating and power trowel. Aidan was there outside of 2 hours cleaning up. Packing up trailer to travel to Savannah until 9 PM. Total work - 5 hrs power trowel, and 3 other (Aidan) + 2 hr packing. Total of 27.5 hr total concrete-related (not includes packing for Savannah).
  • Forming - 27 h
    • Mon Dec 5, 2022 - 12 hrs to plumbing, gravel spread. Insulation on forms. + 3 for Brent on plumbing etc.
    • Sun Dec 4, 2022 -12 hrs to forms largely done, minus entry to garage. Main excavation day?
  • House Layout: 5 hr
    • Friday Dec 2, 2022 - Laser level and evening high spots - about 25 minutes? Meter reading - . All together today - 5 hrs including selecting final location, calculating diagonals, figuring out foundation detail, starting micro excavator work. Bulk of time - deciding on proper location of house.
  • Grading - 9.5 hrs:
    • Thu Dec 1 -Smoothing - 1044.4 - 1045.5 - 1.1 hrs.
    • Dig time - 1042.1-1044.4 - 2.3 hrs. Finishing of bulk digging.
    • Dig time - 4.1 on Sunday. Bulk of the diggin. Key is to get into mindless flow, which is possible with ample soil, and is definitely easier if the soil is not rock hard like clay. 1038.0-1042.1
    • Scrape time for grass for 70x50 area - 2 hrs. Start hour meter = 1036.0

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