Dry vs “Wet” Compressed Air

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Revision as of 14:52, 16 December 2025 by Eric (talk | contribs) (Saved Progress Mid-Long Edit)
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Basics

Considerations

Preface

  • As stated previously, this page aims to largely cover Oil Sealed/Lubricated Piston Based Compressors
  • As the air exits most of these it contains Oil Mist and Water Vapor
  • The Oil Mist isn’t the WORST for most things, but can be problematic for some uses, in particular Supplied Air Respirators etc
  • The Water Vapor can introduce some issues in terms of Long Term Storage use, or especially later when it cools and forms condensate (which can lead to Vapor Lock / Steam Hammer type issues and other issues of a system intended to be Single Phase Flow becoming Two Phase Flow )

Oil Mist

Water Vapor

  • Drying can be done BEFORE compression, or after
  • As of this edit, this page will largely focus on Post-Compression Water Vapor Removal (although feel free to add more info!)

Post-Compression Water Vapor Removal

  • Several systems are possible, but mainly:
    • Silica Gel (or other Desiccant ) Canisters
    • Condensation Based Systems
    • Hybrid systems can also be used, where a primitive condenser is used to “take some of the load off” of the desiccant

Being able to use “standard” air

  • Due to the complexity/bulk, as well as COST of the systems, especially for (High Level) Drying, selecting and designing systems+procedures such that they can tolerate usage of unprocessed “straight out of the compressor” air is beneficial
  • Furthermore from a Design for Component Failure / Anti-Fragility perspective, there may even be some advantage to having ALL compressed air lines be plumed in a way that can handle operation in a “wet” mode

Compressed Air Plumbing (Wet vs Dry)

  • A well designed compressed air tank will have a a Design for Cleaning -esque Cone Bottom Tank and a fitting allowing some means of drainage
    • A 90 Degree Fitting and a simple Ball Valve can suffice
      • This is a very loud process, and also typically sends a stream of (Potentially Rusty) PCW spewing (especially if it hasn’t been drained in a while) so AT MINIMUM having to face away from the operator, and having them wear safety glasses+hearing protection CAN WORK
        • It should also be in an area where the PCW can be allowed to evaporate off (such as a concrete pad/inside etc, Rags/Oil Adsorbent Pads can also be used)
        • Ideally though, some sort of Compressed Air Tank Vent Muffler would be used, and the PCW would be separated + sealed
    • Automatic Compressed Air Tank Drains CAN be used
      • Main issues are:
        • Unless they have a pre-vent alarm/notification etc, it can catch people off guard (Although proper HAZCOM / a mention in the Sight Specific Safety Orientation (for all (new) workers, and any contractors ) could alleviate this, along with the aforementioned Muffler
        • A more subtle one is the role Routine Manual Draining has in terms of incidentally adding a Visual Inspection / “Look, Smell, Listen” check to things. Automated systems are convenient yes, but also can allow for forgetting of systems that would be better observed/maintained
          • Simply opening a ball valve (especially if it is designed in an Accesible Manner, ie Large Handle Ball Valve, not too close to the floor/covered in dirt etc) isn’t TOO HARD of a task too, so the need for automation isn’t that great (unless the site would be without people for long stretches of time)

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