D3D v20.04.27 Build Instructions

Z Axis

1. Assemble idler side.
2. Mount idler side on bottom of frame, right next to corner piece, with nuts next to frame.
3. Assemble carriage side.
4. Open idler side, keeping it mounted on frame. This will allow fitting of axis to it.
5. Mount motor side on rods, keep loose.
6. Fit motor side to frame, hanging it on the top of the frame, and adjusting rod lengths so they are slightly above the working surface.
7. Take off axis, mount motor, tighten motor side fully.
8. Mount motor side on frame, and in idler.
9. Close the idler side.
10. One axis mounted. Now mount 3 more.

Series Z Motor Wiring

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Heater

Tight weave is standard for sleeve. Loose still works:

1. Materials: 3 mm sleeve, 5' (inner); 6 mm sleeve, 4' (outer); [2] 6" pieces of 3 mm sleeve; [2] 4" pieces of fence wire; [2] 24" pieces of 200C wire
2. Wrap 14' heater core on 5' of inner small (3 mm) fiberglass sleeve. Use a drill to make this snappy: start the nichrome wind, electrical tape over the start to protect from breaking, and grab in drill chuck. attach other end to free-spinning rotor using electrical tape. Start wrapping by holding the wire down with your hand as the fiberglass spins.
3. Cut 4" fence wire transition pieces, wrap 1" of ends of nichrome core around them. Make a small hook for strengthening physical connection,then solder. Solder probably melts out, so you're probably relying on the mechanical wrap and hook. Note if you use fence wire, sand it down to get rid of oxides so solder can attach.
4. Feed the 3 mm inner heater core through the 6 mm outer sleeve
5. Cut 6" of ga 18 200C wire
6. Strip 200C wire on both sides, tape (electrical) to prevent fraying (stripping first appears to work better, otherwise it's too difficult to strip is tape is already there)
7. Tin 2 ends of high T wire.
8. Cut 6" 3 mm tight woven fiberglass sleeve (covers ends of 4' long heater element (core + shroud)
9. solder end of high T wire to fence wire intermediate (note intermediate piece is used so the copper does not oxidize at heat - it's a buffer/insulator so that connection to copper doesn't corrode.
10. Once soldered, slip the 6" of 3mm fiberglass sleeve over the high T wire, and into the larger sleeve, so the current-carrying wire is insulated fully over the fence wire.

Bed Surface

1. Using 9" wide rolls of 3M double sided tape - apply them to the 18" bed, 2 next to each other
2. Cut PEI to 18.25" long from 24" stock, cut another strip 6"x18.25 (extra quarter inch as stock is over 24"
3. Peel protective coat from one side of PEI
4. Stick 12x18 PEI on, transverse to the double-sided tape
5. Stick on the 6", with the factory edge adjacent to the one that's already attached.

Controller

1. Mount GFCI, pinch power wire using the nutcatcher and bolt. Ground is on top of GFCI.
2. Mount Power Supply. Send its output power wires under board through nearby hole.
3. Mount RAMPS. Thread Z wires and 5V power through screen hole.
4. Mount LCD. Send the ribbon cables through LCD hole and elongated hole by SSR
5. Mount SSR. Use double zip tie if SSR has a mounting slot instead of hole
6. Plug in main power plug. Wires are 6", 6", and 10".

Links

• D3D v20.04.27