User:Dorkmo/Builds/CircularKnitic

Attempting to build a OSE CircularKnitic v18.03 machine. Updating the design files along the way.

BOM

Tools

• 5.5 end wrench - grainger
• 2.5 Hex driver L - grainger
• 2.5 Hex screw driver - grainger

Nuts & Bolts

• M3 x 25 - Fastenal
• M3 x 20 - Fastenal
• M3 x 12 - Fastenal
• M3 x 10 - Fastenal
• Square Nuts M3 - Fastenal

• M2 x 12 - Fastenal
• M2 Nuts

Bearings

• NTN Bearing MiSUMi or NSK Bearing MiSUMi

Electronics

• https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Cosel/PBA75F-12-N?qs=7%252b9h8EK%252bkyuJ0545jeaWQA%3D%3D
  • https://www.alliedelec.com/product/altech-corp/ps-7512/70075527/
• https://store.arduino.cc/usa/arduino-motor-shield-rev3
  • https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Arduino/A000079?qs=sGAEpiMZZMsyTxkJnMM1W05qedAfM53YGil6u%2F3w8qE%3D
• https://store.arduino.cc/usa/arduino-uno-rev3

Stepper - PKP243D08A2 - Oriental Motor

Build Log

March 2, 2019

• I had these motors for something else and decided to use them, but i think they might be overkill

  PKP246D15A2

  • Arduino Motor Shield seems to be overheating when connected to one, acting sporadically
  • Steppers are rated at 1.5amp per phase, Motor Shield rated at 2amp per channel, but no active cooling
  • As a stopgap solution i stacked 4 Motor Shields, and pointed a fan at the stack.
    • ran 1 phase off of each of the two bi-polar motors on its own motor shield
  • Seems to be able to run continously now

• While running, it seems that occasionally a loop will not come up to the top of the needle as it moves down
  • This causes the loop to prevent the latch from opening, then it seems to skip the next loop
  • Not sure if this is being caused by the loose cit of c2 and c3, or that p4 needs to be adjusted
    • in turn if p4 needs to adjust i think the travel of the needle pushdown will also need to inscrease
  • In the video below you can see a few places where the output looks pinched

February 28, 2019

• Got steppers running
  • using the arduino motor driver, i dont think it can microstep so its a bit jerky it seems
  • probably could slow down a little
  • also noticing that the gap between the cut plates and the wall could be smaller
• Casted on for the first time
  • did pretty good for a few rounds but started to miss a few needles
  • the thread bunched up on the yarn holders, i think more weight is needed to pull down
• tried using a series of paperclips to attach weights. used a cordless drill as a weight
  • seemed to work, but diameter seems to shrink as it lowers, need to maintain width
  • will test different layouts

February 23, 2019

• Got most of the mechanical parts assembled
• Still need to build a weight and paperclip system to pull down
• ended up using 1x1" square aluminum tubing for base support, seems pretty good
• Need to figure out stepper driver setup
  • Using arduino and a sparkfun AutoDriver

February 19, 2019

• Got parts in from 3Dhubs and Sculpteo. Everything looks good.
• Should get bearings and bolts later this week.

• Discovered an obvious bug with the current design.
  • Needle unable to slide easily into slots
  • Thankfully can twist into position on this print. Will use. But also tweak design for future prints.
  • Need to raise/trim the top of groove on p3, or cut into base a little bit

February 15, 2019

• I mistakenly assumed 5x10x4 metric bearings (MR105) would be easy to find
  • I already ordered 3D prints so im married to this size for now
  • McMaster only carries expensive stainless version of this size
  • Some available on amazon but they all seem dodgy, will save for last resort
  • Will contact local bearing shop to see if they can order in

https://www.mcmaster.com/7804k106

https://bearingfinder.ntnamericas.com/item/deep-groove-ball-bearings/single-row-radial-ball-bearings/wbc5-10zz

https://www.amazon.com/Metal-Shielded-Bearings-5x10x4-MR105-ZZ/dp/B00F4M17X8

https://us.misumi-ec.com/vona2/detail/221000531116/?HissuCode=MR105

• Went ahead and ordered from MiSUMi

February 10, 2019

• Ordred 3D printed parts from 3Dhubs.com
  • very little control over print settings
  • Possible that parts will have sizing issues without being able to measure between prints

Febraury 9, 2019

• ordered laser cut parts from Sculpteo.com
  • Their maximum thickness available is 1/8" or ~3.175mm.
  • This is thinner than the original machine's 5mm and 6mm parts
  • Taking a chance and hoping this wont be a problem structurally

January 2019

• tweaked variables so that laser cut parts will fit within 380mm width.
  • This seems to be an industry standard for smaller plastic stock sheets?

December 2018

• Got design in working order, begin cleaning up issues/bugs

November 2018

• Contacted Mar from CirularKnitic
• Retstarted design work

May 27, 2018

• going to make the outside diameter for p3 about 1,000mm so that it will fit within 4 feet.
• The "Mountain" part didnt like being generated for a largr diameter machine. going to have to go back a tweak a couple things.
• looking at polycarbonate prices, seems steel is almost the same price per volume.
  • will probably be easier to find a steel plate laser cutter machine shop
  • thinking im going to use steel where they used polycarbonate sheets.

May 22, 2018

• getting close to finishing up variable formulas that need to be calculated based on needle dimensions
• part3 "p3" rendering incorrectly.
  • diameter not expanding to accomidate more needles

May 1, 2018

• Recieved needles in the mail
• used digital calipers to take measurements
  • Documented here OSE_CircularKnitic_v18.03#CKneedleVars-KH260.scad

April 2018

ordered some needles from this hong kong website http://shop.sckmcl.com.hk/product_info.php?products_id=136

• KH260 for Brother Knitting Machine Main Bed Needles 413426001

• might try using 360 needles. sounds like a nice number to shoot for.