Revision as of 19:25, 2 April 2022

Status of Completion

Relatively comprehensive video, with tub-shower pre-plumbed so none of its drain detail is shown:

Or, see how inefficient it gets for a larger house - 6000 sf of concrete after rough plumbing - 150 yards - like 18 trucks/ Shows stressing of foundation cables [3]. Including copper pipe water service.

Waste and water pressure testing - plugging all holes - showing different plugs , [4].

The washing machine box - trim cover at end is adjusted to thickness of sheathing [5]

Good one which shows what the inspector actually does - but this is not rough plumbing - just house plumbing inspection for home valuation purposes - [6]

DWV - 5 psi air or water. See that valve holds. 0.1 psi graded valve.
- How do you stop the bath tub overflow? Drain should close, but overflow
Each trap protected by vent
See cleanout requirements.
Ford Fitting for water supply line if supply line connection is inside the house.
125 Water pressure test required
Vacuum breakers on hose outlets
Supply water line fill is inspected prior to covering
Approved grounding system for water supply line?
Tracer wire for water supply from meter to foundation
Toilet clearance 15" from sides and 12" from back
Nail plates for vent pipe - if you have sheathing above vents.
Tape for joints in vents must be UL 181 listed. [7]
Exterior wall water lines must be freeze protected. [8]
Max 32" between PEX line supports. [9]. Attach so that water hammer does not end up making noise.
Backflow preventer from street sewer.
Tubs are level - so you simplify the trim work necessary around it [10]
Toilet 12.5" from framing, or 12 from wall. [11]
Caulk around toilet and bath?
Functional water flow test - [12]
2 parts vinegar + 1 part baking soda as alt to Drano [13]

If tub is preinstalled, how to close overflow? The over flow I capped off by making a plate to screw on and used a piece of mouse pad as a gasket. [14]
- If tub is on second floor, its overflow can be the high water mark, so there is no need to close it. This would not apply if testing with air.
For rough-in, the easiest approach to tub in our case (it doesn't fit through doors, so must be pre-located. Pre-located does not mean it has to be pre-plumbed. So leave the drain kit off - just make sure it is possible to install it _after_ the trap is installed.
Assumes that trap doesn't have to be in for rough plumbing - just rough drain for tub. [15]

Water Heater - Since it is a fixture [16] - a water heater is installed in the finish phase [17]
Water heater is often installed at rough plumbing phase [18]

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+=Status of Completion=
+*Connection to water and sewer is made for the rough-in plumbing phase. [https://www.kulksplumbing.com/rough-in-plumbing-vs-finish-plumbing/#:~:text=During%20The%20Rough%20In%20Plumbing%20Phase%3A&text=Drain%20lines%20and%20water%20supply,a%20primary%20structure%20is%20completed.]
 =Detailed Checklist=
 https://mybuildingpermit.com/sites/default/files/inline-files/IC_Residential_Plumbing-Rough-In_Final.pdf