CEB Press/Manufacturing Instructions/Controller Box: Difference between revisions

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== Tools Required ==
The CEB Press's controller box houses the switches and electronics that are used to operate the hudraulics of the CEB Press and to process data from sensors on the machine.


*Wire Cutters
=Video=


== Materials Required ==
<html>
[[Image:Cutlerhammerbox.jpg|thumb]]
<iframe src="https://player.vimeo.com/video/33885023?title=0&amp;byline=0&amp;portrait=0" width="400" height="225" frameborder="0" webkitAllowFullScreen allowFullScreen></iframe>
</html>


*Outdoor Main Lug Box - 125Amp, 2Spaces, 4Circuits, 1Phase, 3Wire, 120/240VAC
=Tools=
*Extension Cord
*Alligator clips (2)
*House wiring box [http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Navigation?storeId=10051&N=+90001+544955&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&cm_sp=d27-_-electrical-_-category_page-_-Electrical-_-electrical_essentials-_-plugs_outlets_cords-_-shop_now]
*Fuse holder
*12v quick connect plugs (5 pairs)
*Stranded 5A wire
*Spade terminals (10)
*Underground phone cable
*Potting compound
*PVC pipe
*PVC pipe cap
*Stranded Cat 5 cable
*Supermagnets (5)


*Straight Pattern Tin Snips


*Wire Strippers Compatible with 18 and 22 Gauge


== Diagrams ==
*Crimpers
[[Image:controllerbox.jpg|400px]]


*need a diagram of the wires
*2.3mm Flathead Screwdriver


== Fabrication Steps ==
*Screwdriver with Number 2 Philips Bit


*Needlenose Pliers


*Measuring Tape


=Materials=


*Case


== (Temporary) Quoted Text from [[FeF_Liberator_Fabrication]] ==
[http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/CEB_Press/Manufacturing_Instructions/Case Assembly Instructions]


*[2] Sensor Units


Source the electronics. Here is a diagram of the controller box
[http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/CEB_Press/Manufacturing_Instructions/Sensor_Unit Assembly Instructions]


[[Image:controllerbox.jpg]]
*Solenoid Driver v2


Here is the complete controller installed:
[http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/CEB_Press/Manufacturing_Instructions/Detroit_Fab_Lab_Solenoid_Driver_v2 Assembly Instructions]


[[Image:controllerboxinstalled.jpg|400px]]
*18 Gauge Red Wire


[[Image:cutlerhammerbox.jpg|thumb|Electronics Box]]
*18 Gauge Black Wire
[[Image:elctronicsbox.jpg|thumb|Electronics Box]]


Gross Electronics:
*Ring Insulated Connector with Small Hole for 10-12 Gauge


*Electronics Box - local hardware store
*[14] Ring Insulated Connectors for 10-12 Gauge
*Extension Cord
**Or house wiring with [http://www.harborfreight.com/125-volt-15-amp-female-plug-connector-93687.html Female Plug] and [http://www.harborfreight.com/125-volt-15-amp-male-plug-93686.html Male Plug].
*2 alligator clips for battery connection - auto parts store
*House wiring box (blue box in picture above below the Arduino Shield - hardware store
*Fuse holder - car parts store
*12v quick connect plugs - 5 pairs - for quick-coupling to solenoids out of controller box - car parts store
*Stranded 5A wire for solenoid connections
*Spade terminals (10) for connection to solenoid terminals
*Underground phone cable - makes very tough connectors for sensors
*Potting compound
*PVC pipe - with 1 end capped
*Stranded Cat 5 wire for sensor connections
*[5] Supermagnets -  


Microelectronics:
*[6] Ring Insulated Connectors for 14-16 Gauge


*[2] Hall Effect Sensors - Sparkfun
=Steps=
*[1] Arduino shield kit - Makerbot
*[1] Arduino - Makerbot
*[2] RepRap PWM Driver Boards


Components for PWM Driver Boards
*Mount the solenoid driver on top of the Arduino microcontroller.


*[1] '''Replacement MOSFETS''' -
*Using the tin snips, cut 6 pieces of 20cm black wire, 2 pieces of 20cm red wire, 5 pieces of 1.5m black wire, and 1 piece of 1.5m red wire.
*[]


=Step 3=
*Using the wire strippers at 22 gauge, strip half a centimetre at one end of the 6 pieces of 20cm black wire and 1 piece of 20cm red wire.


Shopping list for items which are shipped:
*Using the wire strippers at 18 gauge, strip a centimetre at the other ends of the 6 pieces of 20cm black wire and the 1 piece of 20cm red wire, as well as both ends of the other 1 piece of 20cm red wire, the 5 pieces of 1.5m black wire, and the 1 piece of 1.5m red wire.


*<span style="color:green">[1] Arduino breakout shield - [http://store.makerbot.com/arduino-breakout-shield-v1-4-kit.html $25], Makerbot
*Using the crimper, crimp the 10 to 12 gauge ring insulated connector at one of the 1 centimetre stripped ends of the 6 pieces of 20cm black wire, the 2 pieces of 20cm red wire, the 5 pieces of 1.5m black wire, and the 1 piece of 1.5m red wire.
[[Image:Breakoutparts.jpg|thumb|Arduino breakout shield components. Solder green parts (left in picture) last, after the black pieces (bottom in picture).]]
Also crimp the 10 to 12 gauge small hole ring insulated connector at the remaining 1cm end of the 20cm red wire and crimp the 14 to 16 gauge ring connector to the remaining 1cm ends of the 5 pieces of 1.5m black wire and 1 piece of 1.5m red wire.
**Assembly instructions - [http://www.reprap.org/wiki/Arduino_Breakout_1_4]
*<span style="color:green">[1] Arduino (Duemilanove) - [http://store.makerbot.com/arduino.html $30], Makerbot
*<span style="color:green">[2] Solenoid drivers -[http://store.makerbot.com/pwm-driver-v1-1-kit.html $13 ea.], Makerbot
**Assembly instructions - [http://www.reprap.org/wiki/PWM_Driver_1_1].
**total cost with shipping - $88.25
*<span style="color:green">[4] MOSFET replacements [http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?13,41238,41255,quote=1 (see discussion)] for solenoid drivers, VNP35N07-E - [http://www.futureelectronics.com/en/technologies/semiconductors/analog/drivers/mosfet-igbt-drivers/Pages/3890498-VNP35N07-E.aspx $3.34], Future Electronics (if not available, search at Octopart) (grate shaker is automated, no sensors needed for it)
**Notes: The cheaper version recommended by Nophead from RepRap was this [http://octopart.com/partsearch/#search/requestData&q=VNP14NV04-E]. See [http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?13,41238,41255,quote=1 discussion].
**Total $25.70 (for 5)
*<span style="color:green">[2] Hall Effect sensors - [http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=9312 $0.95 ea], Sparkfun
**Total $9.16 (for 5)
*<span style="color:green">[4] 3/8" V-groove bearings - [http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/V-Groove-Bearings/Kit8405 $7.77 ea], VXB
**Total $42.47
*<span style="color:green">[6] Supermagnets - [http://www.gaussboys.com/ndfeb-magnets/D1203E-N42.html $0.48], Gaussboys
**Total $11.11 (for 12)


Grand total for electronics, magnets, and bearings - $176.69
*Using the screwdriver with the number 2 philips bit, connect the small ring end of the 20cm red wire to the remaining power switch terminal.


*<span style="color:green">[1] Potting Compound - [http://cgi.ebay.com/EPOXY-RESIN-CIRCUIT-BOARD-POTTING-COMPOUND-CASTING-48OZ-/310186942108?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4838951e9c $22 for 48 oz], Polymer Composites
*Insert the large ring end of the 6 1.5m wires through the bottom-middle hole of the lug box.
*Molex connector for powering solenoid drivers - [http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102783]
*[1] Fuse holder - [http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102783]


=Step 4=
*Using the screwdriver with the number 2 philips bit, connect the large ring end of the 1.5m red wire, the remaining ring end of the switch-connected 20cm red wire, and the ring end of the other 20cm red wire to the bottom-left screw of the terminal platform.
Put together control box and test sensors


*Assemble entire Control Box
*Connect the large ring end of the 5 1.5m black wires and the ring end of 5 20cm black wires to the top 5 screws of the terminal platform. Then connect the ring end of the remaining 20cm black wire to the bottom-right screw of the terminal platform.
**Blue spacer box - Arduino attached on top with 2 small screws. Slightly slanted attachment to make screw holes fit on blue spacer box
**Terminal in electrical outlet box cut in half on metal cutoff saw to create + and - terminals
**Plastic mount on bottom of electrical box was shaved to allow 2 solenoid drivers to fit


*Test Arduino on laptop - for example by [http://www.arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/Blink blinking Channel 13 output on Duemilanove].
*Using the flathead screwdriver, connect the half centimetre ends of the 6 pieces of 20cm black wire to the lower terminal of the 5 mosfet terminal blocks, and the left terminal of the power terminal block. Note that the mosfet connections from left to right on the terminal platform should go from bottom to top on the solenoid driver. Also connect the half centimetre end of the 1 piece of 20cm red wire to the right terminal of the power terminal block.


*Test sensors by passing magnets over them. See this sample code.
*Insert the 2 sensor units by their wire end into the right-bottom hole of the lug box.
**[http://www.sparkfun.com/datasheets/Components/General/Hall-US1881EUA.pdf Data Sheet]
**Supply voltage is 5V from the Arduino breakout shield
**The pins are +,-, OUT reading from top (printed / smaller face)
**The output is "Open Drain" - this means you need a "pull up" resistor on the output (10K connected to +)
**This model is "latching" which means it turns on from one pole, and off by the other, remembering its state in the meantime.


Controller checklist (ie, So you don't burn your components, check these):
*Using the flathead screwdriver, connect the bluewhite wires, orange wires, and blue wires into the top, middle, and bottom terminal blocks, respectively, on the right side of the solenoid driver.


#Arduino powers on with USB cord? Check.
*Using the screwdriver with the number 2 philips bit, screw-tighten the wire clamp at the right-bottom hole of the lug box.
#Arduino works - ex. blink Channel 13 with an LED? Check. Atmega 328 Duemilanove - on Ubuntu 10.04.
#Controller main power switch light red when battery is connected and switch is turned on? Check.
#With Molex connectors disconnected, 12V appears at pins 1 and 2?
#With Molex connectors plugged into solenoid driver boards, main power switch turns the drivers on?
#Arduino powers on with battery supply after flipping main switch on?
#Solenoid drivers are turned on with main switch?
#Solenoids turn all of their MOSFETS as seen via indicator lights?
#Solenoids can cycle the solenoid valves?
C


=Step 5=
==Previous Versions==


*Test solenoid valves by attaching power to battery and running this sample code for 2 solenoid channels.
*[[CEB Press/Manufacturing Instructions/Controller Box/Automation Prototype II|CEB Press Automation Prototype II]]
**Note we can reduce 3 solenoid channels to 2 by running both the shaker motor and the drawer cylinder from the same channel - the shaker is activated at every stroke of the drawer, as there is ample hydraulic fluid flow available in that part of the overall CEB operation cycle.
*[[CEB Press/Manufacturing Instructions/Controller Box/Arduino Control of CEB Prototype 2|Arduino Control of CEB Prototype 2]]
*[[CEB Press/Manufacturing Instructions/Controller Box/FeF Liberator Controller|FeF Liberator Controller]]
 
==Future Versions==
*[[CEB Controller Box]]
 
[[Category: CEB Press]]
[[Category:CEB Press Fabrication]]
 
==See Also==
*[[Terminal Block]] - replacing screw platform in these instructions
*[[CEB_Press/Pictures_of_Newest_Controller|Pictures of Newest Controller]] - these pictures are of a controller box that is newer than the one described here

Latest revision as of 02:20, 17 February 2017

The CEB Press's controller box houses the switches and electronics that are used to operate the hudraulics of the CEB Press and to process data from sensors on the machine.

Video

Tools

  • Straight Pattern Tin Snips
  • Wire Strippers Compatible with 18 and 22 Gauge
  • Crimpers
  • 2.3mm Flathead Screwdriver
  • Screwdriver with Number 2 Philips Bit
  • Needlenose Pliers
  • Measuring Tape

Materials

  • Case

Assembly Instructions

  • [2] Sensor Units

Assembly Instructions

  • Solenoid Driver v2

Assembly Instructions

  • 18 Gauge Red Wire
  • 18 Gauge Black Wire
  • Ring Insulated Connector with Small Hole for 10-12 Gauge
  • [14] Ring Insulated Connectors for 10-12 Gauge
  • [6] Ring Insulated Connectors for 14-16 Gauge

Steps

  • Mount the solenoid driver on top of the Arduino microcontroller.
  • Using the tin snips, cut 6 pieces of 20cm black wire, 2 pieces of 20cm red wire, 5 pieces of 1.5m black wire, and 1 piece of 1.5m red wire.
  • Using the wire strippers at 22 gauge, strip half a centimetre at one end of the 6 pieces of 20cm black wire and 1 piece of 20cm red wire.
  • Using the wire strippers at 18 gauge, strip a centimetre at the other ends of the 6 pieces of 20cm black wire and the 1 piece of 20cm red wire, as well as both ends of the other 1 piece of 20cm red wire, the 5 pieces of 1.5m black wire, and the 1 piece of 1.5m red wire.
  • Using the crimper, crimp the 10 to 12 gauge ring insulated connector at one of the 1 centimetre stripped ends of the 6 pieces of 20cm black wire, the 2 pieces of 20cm red wire, the 5 pieces of 1.5m black wire, and the 1 piece of 1.5m red wire.

Also crimp the 10 to 12 gauge small hole ring insulated connector at the remaining 1cm end of the 20cm red wire and crimp the 14 to 16 gauge ring connector to the remaining 1cm ends of the 5 pieces of 1.5m black wire and 1 piece of 1.5m red wire.

  • Using the screwdriver with the number 2 philips bit, connect the small ring end of the 20cm red wire to the remaining power switch terminal.
  • Insert the large ring end of the 6 1.5m wires through the bottom-middle hole of the lug box.
  • Using the screwdriver with the number 2 philips bit, connect the large ring end of the 1.5m red wire, the remaining ring end of the switch-connected 20cm red wire, and the ring end of the other 20cm red wire to the bottom-left screw of the terminal platform.
  • Connect the large ring end of the 5 1.5m black wires and the ring end of 5 20cm black wires to the top 5 screws of the terminal platform. Then connect the ring end of the remaining 20cm black wire to the bottom-right screw of the terminal platform.
  • Using the flathead screwdriver, connect the half centimetre ends of the 6 pieces of 20cm black wire to the lower terminal of the 5 mosfet terminal blocks, and the left terminal of the power terminal block. Note that the mosfet connections from left to right on the terminal platform should go from bottom to top on the solenoid driver. Also connect the half centimetre end of the 1 piece of 20cm red wire to the right terminal of the power terminal block.
  • Insert the 2 sensor units by their wire end into the right-bottom hole of the lug box.
  • Using the flathead screwdriver, connect the bluewhite wires, orange wires, and blue wires into the top, middle, and bottom terminal blocks, respectively, on the right side of the solenoid driver.
  • Using the screwdriver with the number 2 philips bit, screw-tighten the wire clamp at the right-bottom hole of the lug box.

Previous Versions

Future Versions

See Also

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