CEB Press/Manufacturing Instructions/Controller Box: Difference between revisions

From Open Source Ecology
Jump to navigation Jump to search
(+warning)
No edit summary
 
(60 intermediate revisions by 4 users not shown)
Line 1: Line 1:
{{Template:CEB Press Manufacturing Instructions Navbox}}
The CEB Press's controller box houses the switches and electronics that are used to operate the hudraulics of the CEB Press and to process data from sensors on the machine.
{{Warning|The documentation for the CEB Press is undergoing a thorough overhaul.  CAD models and written directions are presently obsolete.  For more information, see [[Talk:CEB_Press#Documentation_overhaul_in_progress]].  When the models, specifications and text on this article have been thoroughly reviewed, updated when necessary, and confirmed as whole and accurate, this warning may be removed.}}


[[Image:ceb-controller.jpg|right]]
=Video=
 
 
== Tools Required ==
 
*Wire Cutters
*Soldering Iron Kit
*PC
*Hand Drill
*Wire Crimper Cutter
==Materials Required ==
 
{{Warning|At the moment there are two different styles of wiring displayed on this page. a transition to a milled circuit board is in prograss but not complete. please be aware of the mixed data}}
 
[[Image:Cutlerhammerbox.jpg|thumb]]
[[Image:Breakoutparts.jpg|thumb|Breakout Shield & Arduino]]
[[Image:Correctedboard.jpg|thumb|PWM Driver]]
 
*Outdoor Main Lug Box - 125Amp, 2Spaces, 4Circuits, 1Phase, 3Wire, 120/240VAC
*Extension Cord
*Alligator clips (2)
*Home wiring box [http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Navigation?storeId=10051&N=+90001+544955&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&cm_sp=d27-_-electrical-_-category_page-_-Electrical-_-electrical_essentials-_-plugs_outlets_cords-_-shop_now]
*Fuse holder - 30Amp Inline Mini Blade-Type [http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102783 Buy]
*12v quick connect plugs (5 pairs)
*Stranded 5A wire ?
*Spade terminals (10)
*Underground phone cable
*Potting compound [http://cgi.ebay.com/EPOXY-RESIN-CIRCUIT-BOARD-POTTING-COMPOUND-CASTING-48OZ-/310186942108?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4838951e9c Buy]
*PVC pipe
*PVC pipe cap
*Stranded Cat 5 cable
*Supermagnets (6) - N42 [http://www.gaussboys.com/ndfeb-magnets/D1203E-N42.html Buy]
*Arduino (Duemilanove) [http://www.amazon.com/Arduino-Duemilanove/dp/B001VK18HC Buy]
*MOSFET replacements (5) - Single 35A 70V 0.028Ω TO-220-3 [http://www.futureelectronics.com/en/technologies/semiconductors/analog/drivers/mosfet-igbt-drivers/Pages/3890498-VNP35N07-E.aspx Buy]  [http://octopart.com/partsearch/#search/requestData&q=VNP14NV04-E Buy]
*Hall Effect sensors (2) - US1881 TO-92 [http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=9312 Buy]
*3/8" V-groove bearings (4) [http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/V-Groove-Bearings/Kit8405 Buy]
*Molex connector [http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812198025&cm_re=molex-_-12-198-025-_-Product Buy] [http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10245&cs_id=1024501&p_id=1313&seq=1&format=1#largeimage Buy] [http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10245&cs_id=1024501&p_id=1316&seq=1&format=2 Buy]
 
 
 
'''Sub-project Materials'''
 
*Arduino breakout shield [http://store.makerbot.com/arduino-breakout-v1-4-pcb.html Buy Board] [http://www.reprap.org/wiki/Arduino_Breakout_1_4 Assembly instructions] (need link to digikey parts)
**NOTE: The board is no longer sold with components.  To order components see the "Electronic Components" on following page:
 
::[http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/CEB_Press/Bill_of_Materials Arduino Components]
 
*PWM Solenoid drivers (2) [http://store.makerbot.com/pwm-driver-v1-1-kit.html Buy Parts] [http://www.reprap.org/wiki/PWM_Driver_1_1 Assembly instructions]
 
*[[CEB_Press/Manufacturing_Instructions/Detroit_Fab_Lab_Solenoid_Driver|Solenoid Driver]]
 
*[[CEB_Press/Manufacturing_Instructions/Sensor_Unit|Sensors]]
 
== Diagrams ==
[[Image:controllerbox.jpg|400px]]
 
*need a diagram of the wires
*[https://docs.google.com/drawings/edit?id=1Gyv9hAaBZEX9v2RqlvqABIL2TwA2QJOKixl63OoM93o&hl=en google doc drawing of wire diagram (working on it)]


<html>
<html>
<img src="https://docs.google.com/drawings/pub?id=1Gyv9hAaBZEX9v2RqlvqABIL2TwA2QJOKixl63OoM93o&amp;w=480&amp;h=360">
<iframe src="https://player.vimeo.com/video/33885023?title=0&amp;byline=0&amp;portrait=0" width="400" height="225" frameborder="0" webkitAllowFullScreen allowFullScreen></iframe>
</html>
</html>


<html><embed src="http://blip.tv/play/AYHmjUcA" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" width="400" height="400" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true"></embed></html>
=Tools=


==Wiring Instructions==
*Straight Pattern Tin Snips


The CEB controller involves the following wiring:
*Wire Strippers Compatible with 18 and 22 Gauge
*Battery power cord/Fuse/Switch
*Arduino/Breakout Board/Solenoid Driver sandwich
*Circuit board power – solenoid driver and Arduino power connections
*Sensor connections
*Solenoid driver power outputs to solenoids
*Solenoid connections
Note: Reversing the polarity on the power input to the solenoid driver has been shown to fry the solenoid driver board. Other damage may also occur by incorrect connection.


*Crimpers


*2.3mm Flathead Screwdriver


===Battery Power===
*Screwdriver with Number 2 Philips Bit
[[Image:batteryconnection.jpg|thumb|Fig. 1. Battery connection.]]
[[Image:cebcontroller.jpg|thumb|Fig. 2. CEB controller v2.0 (2011).]]
[[Image:solenoidvalve.jpg|thumb|Fig. 3. Hydraulic solenoid valve.]]
[[Image:alligatorclips.jpg|thumb|Fig. 4. Alligator clips.]]
[[Image:safetydisconnect.jpg|thumb|Fig. 5. Safety disconnect.]]
[[Image:powerswitch.jpg|thumb|Fig. 6. Main power switch.]]
[[Image:terminalstrip.jpg|thumb|Fig. 7. Terminal strip inside the controller box.]]
[[Image:safetyfuse.jpg|thumb|Fig. 8. 10 amp safety fuse.]]
[[Image:arduinolayer.jpg|thumb|Fig. 9. Arduino on bottom.]]
[[Image:breakoutboard.jpg|thumb|Fig. 10. Breakout board.]]
[[Image:driverboard.jpg|thumb|Fig. 11. Solenoid driver board.]]
[[Image:pinlineup.jpg|thumb|Fig. 12. Lining up of pins.]]
[[Image:driverschematic.png|thumb|Fig. 13. Circuit schematic of driver board.]]
[[Image:Drivertraces.png|thumb|Fig. 13b. Traces schematic of driver board.]]
[[Image:testcode.jpg|thumb|Fig. 14.Controller testing GUI.]]


The [[Power Cube]] battery, or any other 12V source (Fig. 1), provides electrical power to drive the CEB controller (Fig. 2) and hydraulic solenoid valves (Fig. 3). Alligator clips (Fig. 4) are used to make the connection. The white lead in the power cord is the positive terminal, and the black lead is the negative terminal. This polarity matters.
*Needlenose Pliers


The battery power cable connects to the controller via a safety disconnect (video in last year's CEB documentation) - which are 2 plugs plugged into each other (Fig. 5). Once battery power is connected, the main power switch (Fig. 6) turns on the power to the controller, where the controller feeds power to the solenoids. Inside the controller, a terminal strip (Fig. 7) is used for the ground (black) and positive connections to the circuit boards. A fuse (Fig. 8) should be located between the main power switch and the positive terminal.
*Measuring Tape


===Circuit Boards===
=Materials=


Three circuit boards are used in the controller. They are plugged one on top of the next in a sandwich configuration. The spacer on the bottom is a standard household electrical outlet, which insulates the circuit boards from the controller box.
*Case


The bottom board is the Arduino (Fig. 9). The Arduino Breakout Board (Fig. 10) sits on top of the Arduino. The circuit-milled Solenoid Driver Board (Fig. 11) sits on top of the Breakout Board. The pins on each of the 3 boards line up (Fig. 12).
[http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/CEB_Press/Manufacturing_Instructions/Case Assembly Instructions]


===Circuit Board Bill of Materials===
*[2] Sensor Units


The circuit schematic of the Solenoid Driver Board is shown in Fig. 13, and the Bill of Materials here - [[File:driverbom.odt]]. This is care of Blair Evans of the Detroit Fab Lab.
[http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/CEB_Press/Manufacturing_Instructions/Sensor_Unit Assembly Instructions]


==Circuit Power==
*Solenoid Driver v2


The Arduino and the Solenoid driver must be powered by 12V from the battery. For the Arduino, the connection is made via the Breakout Board. 12V from the battery must be connected to Vin on the shield (bottom right of Shield in Fig.10), and ground must be connected as well. Use the terminals above the Vin.
[http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/CEB_Press/Manufacturing_Instructions/Detroit_Fab_Lab_Solenoid_Driver_v2 Assembly Instructions]
Power must be connected directly to the solenoid driver board via the terminals in the upper left of Fig. 15. The + terminal is 12V, and the – terminal is the battery ground.  


===Sensor Construction===
*18 Gauge Red Wire


A four wire telephone cable is used to connect to the hall effects sensor.  Only three of the exposed wires are used; orange, blue/white, and blue.  These wires are soldered to the three prongs of the hall effects sensor in order from left to right; orange, blue/white, and blue.  Small shrink wrap should be applied to the wires prior to soldering, and then slid into place to cover the leads to prevent short circuiting.
*18 Gauge Black Wire


Slide the sensor into a small piece of pvc tube 3.5 inches long.  The pvc will be filled with a potting compound to encapsulate the sensor.  Tightly wrap electrical tape around the wire exiting the pvc tube, creating a seal to hold in the potting compound.  Clamp the pvc vertically with the wire protruding from the bottom and fill the inside of the pvc with the potting compound.
*Ring Insulated Connector with Small Hole for 10-12 Gauge


<html>
*[14] Ring Insulated Connectors for 10-12 Gauge
<iframe src="https://player.vimeo.com/video/29466230?title=0&amp;byline=0&amp;portrait=0" width="400" height="225" frameborder="0" webkitAllowFullScreen allowFullScreen></iframe>
</html>


===Sensor Connections===
*[6] Ring Insulated Connectors for 14-16 Gauge


The sensor connections are color coded: blue is the sensor input, blue/white is ground, and orange is 5V.
=Steps=


When looking at the Hall Effect Senor chip (now encapsulated) from the front (front is the side with the writing), the left pin is 5V (orange), the middle pin is ground (blue/white), and the right pin is the sensor input (blue). The pull-up resistor (10k on the Detroit Fab Lab  solenoid driver board, already included on the driver board) is connected between the 5V and sensor input terminals.
*Mount the solenoid driver on top of the Arduino microcontroller.


To connect the sensors, use the terminals on the breakout board to make the connections. '''Use the Analog 0 (A0) and Analog 1 (A1) pins on the breakout board to connect to the main cylinder and secondary cylinder sensor inputs, respectively.''' Note: the 3rd sensor (soil shaker) is optional, and it will not be used here. Connect the sensor 5V connections to the corresponding terminals on the breakout board, and connect the grounds to the corresponding breakout board terminals as well. The sensor connections should look like that shown in Fig. 16.
*Using the tin snips, cut 6 pieces of 20cm black wire, 2 pieces of 20cm red wire, 5 pieces of 1.5m black wire, and 1 piece of 1.5m red wire.


== Testing from Zero==
*Using the wire strippers at 22 gauge, strip half a centimetre at one end of the 6 pieces of 20cm black wire and 1 piece of 20cm red wire.


*Arduino Testing - Preparation
*Using the wire strippers at 18 gauge, strip a centimetre at the other ends of the 6 pieces of 20cm black wire and the 1 piece of 20cm red wire, as well as both ends of the other 1 piece of 20cm red wire, the 5 pieces of 1.5m black wire, and the 1 piece of 1.5m red wire.
*Note: For this testing procedure, you will need a computer with Arduino software, Python and pyserial loaded.
# Solder 100 Ohm resistors to the negative (short) ends of three LEDs.
# Connect the Positive ends of the LEDs to Ports 11, 12 and 13 of the Breakout Shield
# Connect the resistor ends to GND port of the Breakout Shield
# Double-check the connections!
# Connect the Arduino to the Computer using a USB Cable
# Download [[Arduino Environment]]
# Open the Arduino Environment
##Double click on executable text file in Ubuntu
##Select the board that you are using (Duemilanove 328) under Tools / Board.
# Select the Appropriate Serial Connection under Tools / Serial Ports.
##Troubleshooting - if Tools / Serial Ports is blanked out, connect Arduino board
##Generally, the appropriate serial connection will be the number of the lowest unused USB port starting at 0.
# Download the <html><a href = "http://openpario.mime.oregonstate.edu/documents/1250">CEB_Testing_Program.pde</a></html>
# Open the CEB Testing program in last step in the Arduino program by going to File / Open...
##Note: if the above file is not in its own folder, Arduino Environment will create a folder in Ubuntu
# Load the CEB Testing Program into the Arduino using the Upload Button in File / Upload to I/O Board
# Download the Python-based <html><a href = "https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&pid=explorer&chrome=true&srcid=0B2ZOu2AF-TF5MTgzMjM1MjgtYzQwMS00ODQ5LTlkMTgtYjg3YmI1NzRkNmY0&hl=en_US">Arduino Testing Program</a></html>
# Open the Python-based <html><a href = "https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&pid=explorer&chrome=true&srcid=0B2ZOu2AF-TF5MTgzMjM1MjgtYzQwMS00ODQ5LTlkMTgtYjg3YmI1NzRkNmY0&hl=en_US">Arduino Testing Program</a></html>
##Run python code in Terminal - python CEB_Testing.py
##You may need to install python-imaging, python-imaging-tk, python-serial, arduino and avrdude in Linux to make it work
##Try this command in Debian-Based Linux Distros such as Ubuntu: sudo apt-get install python-imaging python-imaging-tk python-serial arduino avrdude
##You may need to install <html><a href = "http://arduino.cc/en/Main/Software">Arduino for Windows</a>,&nbsp;<a href = "http://www.pythonware.com/products/pil/">PIL</a> and <a href = "http://pypi.python.org/pypi/pyserial"> Pyserial</a> if you are using Windows.</html>
##If you are using a Mac, I have no idea what you'll have to do.
# Connect to the Arduino using the GUI button
#'''Arduino - Testing''' - Click the Blink Test Button to Check if the Arduino is working.  LED 13 should blink on and off.
# Click the Sensor Test Button.  The Arduino’s sensors should cause LEDs 11, 12 and 13 to blink on and off in the presence of the magnets.
# Click the MOSFET Testing Buttons.  The green LEDs on the MOSFET should blink on and off accordingly.
#'''Solenoid Connections'''  - Cut five 2’ pieces of 16-gauge black wire and five 2’ pieces of 16-gauge red wire.
# Strip ¼” off each of the five black and five red wires.
# Tin the ends of each of the wires.
# Attach black wires to each of the negative terminals of the MOSFET connectors on the Detroit Fab-Lab board.
# Attach red wires to each of the positive terminals of the MOSFET connectors on the Detroit Fab-Lab Board.
# Run the black and red wires through an available hole in the Electronics Box.(Should we use the left-side hole for this???)
# When all wires have been checked, tighten each of the cable clamps.
#'''Solenoid Testing''' - Remove the bridge connector between the Common Ports of each solenoid unit.
# Connect each of the five red-black solenoid wire pairs to terminals in the solenoids.  Black wires should attach to the Common ports and Red Wires to the Solenoid a and Solenoid b Ports
# Double-check the connections!
# Test the Solenoids with the Python-based CEB Press Testing program.


===Notes===
*Using the crimper, crimp the 10 to 12 gauge ring insulated connector at one of the 1 centimetre stripped ends of the 6 pieces of 20cm black wire, the 2 pieces of 20cm red wire, the 5 pieces of 1.5m black wire, and the 1 piece of 1.5m red wire.
Also crimp the 10 to 12 gauge small hole ring insulated connector at the remaining 1cm end of the 20cm red wire and crimp the 14 to 16 gauge ring connector to the remaining 1cm ends of the 5 pieces of 1.5m black wire and 1 piece of 1.5m red wire.


Here are errors upon running the Python script and upon trying to upload the CEB Testing Program to the arduino:
*Using the screwdriver with the number 2 philips bit, connect the small ring end of the 20cm red wire to the remaining power switch terminal.


[[Image:conttesterrors.jpg|500px]]
*Insert the large ring end of the 6 1.5m wires through the bottom-middle hole of the lug box.


== Fabrication Steps ==
*Using the screwdriver with the number 2 philips bit, connect the large ring end of the 1.5m red wire, the remaining ring end of the switch-connected 20cm red wire, and the ring end of the other 20cm red wire to the bottom-left screw of the terminal platform.


*Assemble entire Control Box
*Connect the large ring end of the 5 1.5m black wires and the ring end of 5 20cm black wires to the top 5 screws of the terminal platform. Then connect the ring end of the remaining 20cm black wire to the bottom-right screw of the terminal platform.
**Blue spacer box - Arduino attached on top with 2 small screws. Slightly slanted attachment to make screw holes fit on blue spacer box
**Terminal in electrical outlet box cut in half on metal cutoff saw to create + and - terminals
**Plastic mount on bottom of electrical box was shaved to allow 2 solenoid drivers to fit


Attach the Sensors
*Using the flathead screwdriver, connect the half centimetre ends of the 6 pieces of 20cm black wire to the lower terminal of the 5 mosfet terminal blocks, and the left terminal of the power terminal block. Note that the mosfet connections from left to right on the terminal platform should go from bottom to top on the solenoid driver. Also connect the half centimetre end of the 1 piece of 20cm red wire to the right terminal of the power terminal block.


#Feed the CAT-5 ends of the sensor cables through either the power cable hole or the right side hole of the Electronics Box.
*Insert the 2 sensor units by their wire end into the right-bottom hole of the lug box.
#Attach the '''orange ends''' of the sensor wires to '''GND terminals on the Breakout Shield'''.
#Attach the '''blue ends''' of the sensor wires to the '''5V terminals''' on the Breakout Shield.
#Attach the '''blue-white ends''' of the sensor wires to '''terminals A0, A1 and A'''2 on the Breakout Shield.


==Previous Testing Procedure==
*Using the flathead screwdriver, connect the bluewhite wires, orange wires, and blue wires into the top, middle, and bottom terminal blocks, respectively, on the right side of the solenoid driver.


*Test Arduino on laptop - for example by [http://www.arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/Blink blinking Channel 13 output on Duemilanove].
*Using the screwdriver with the number 2 philips bit, screw-tighten the wire clamp at the right-bottom hole of the lug box.
 
*Test sensors by passing magnets over them. See this sample code.
**[http://www.sparkfun.com/datasheets/Components/General/Hall-US1881EUA.pdf Data Sheet]
**Supply voltage is 5V from the Arduino breakout shield
**The pins are +,-, OUT reading from top (printed / smaller face)
**The output is "Open Drain" - this means you need a "pull up" resistor on the output (10K connected to +)
**This model is "latching" which means it turns on from one pole, and off by the other, remembering its state in the meantime.
 
Controller checklist (ie, So you don't burn your components, check these):
 
#Arduino powers on with USB cord? Check.
#Arduino works - ex. blink Channel 13 with an LED? Check. Atmega 328 Duemilanove - on Ubuntu 10.04.
#Controller main power switch light red when battery is connected and switch is turned on? Check.
#With Molex connectors disconnected, 12V appears at pins 1 and 2?
#With Molex connectors plugged into solenoid driver boards, main power switch turns the drivers on?
#Arduino powers on with battery supply after flipping main switch on?
#Solenoid drivers are turned on with main switch?
#Solenoids turn all of their MOSFETS as seen via indicator lights?
#Solenoids can cycle the solenoid valves?
C
 
 
 
*Test solenoid valves by attaching power to battery and running this sample code for 2 solenoid channels.
**Note we can reduce 3 solenoid channels to 2 by running both the shaker motor and the drawer cylinder from the same channel - the shaker is activated at every stroke of the drawer, as there is ample hydraulic fluid flow available in that part of the overall CEB operation cycle.
 
----
 
other pages with info that should end up on this page


==Previous Versions==
==Previous Versions==
Line 242: Line 87:
[[Category: CEB Press]]
[[Category: CEB Press]]
[[Category:CEB Press Fabrication]]
[[Category:CEB Press Fabrication]]
==See Also==
*[[Terminal Block]] - replacing screw platform in these instructions
*[[CEB_Press/Pictures_of_Newest_Controller|Pictures of Newest Controller]] - these pictures are of a controller box that is newer than the one described here

Latest revision as of 02:20, 17 February 2017

The CEB Press's controller box houses the switches and electronics that are used to operate the hudraulics of the CEB Press and to process data from sensors on the machine.

Video

Tools

  • Straight Pattern Tin Snips
  • Wire Strippers Compatible with 18 and 22 Gauge
  • Crimpers
  • 2.3mm Flathead Screwdriver
  • Screwdriver with Number 2 Philips Bit
  • Needlenose Pliers
  • Measuring Tape

Materials

  • Case

Assembly Instructions

  • [2] Sensor Units

Assembly Instructions

  • Solenoid Driver v2

Assembly Instructions

  • 18 Gauge Red Wire
  • 18 Gauge Black Wire
  • Ring Insulated Connector with Small Hole for 10-12 Gauge
  • [14] Ring Insulated Connectors for 10-12 Gauge
  • [6] Ring Insulated Connectors for 14-16 Gauge

Steps

  • Mount the solenoid driver on top of the Arduino microcontroller.
  • Using the tin snips, cut 6 pieces of 20cm black wire, 2 pieces of 20cm red wire, 5 pieces of 1.5m black wire, and 1 piece of 1.5m red wire.
  • Using the wire strippers at 22 gauge, strip half a centimetre at one end of the 6 pieces of 20cm black wire and 1 piece of 20cm red wire.
  • Using the wire strippers at 18 gauge, strip a centimetre at the other ends of the 6 pieces of 20cm black wire and the 1 piece of 20cm red wire, as well as both ends of the other 1 piece of 20cm red wire, the 5 pieces of 1.5m black wire, and the 1 piece of 1.5m red wire.
  • Using the crimper, crimp the 10 to 12 gauge ring insulated connector at one of the 1 centimetre stripped ends of the 6 pieces of 20cm black wire, the 2 pieces of 20cm red wire, the 5 pieces of 1.5m black wire, and the 1 piece of 1.5m red wire.

Also crimp the 10 to 12 gauge small hole ring insulated connector at the remaining 1cm end of the 20cm red wire and crimp the 14 to 16 gauge ring connector to the remaining 1cm ends of the 5 pieces of 1.5m black wire and 1 piece of 1.5m red wire.

  • Using the screwdriver with the number 2 philips bit, connect the small ring end of the 20cm red wire to the remaining power switch terminal.
  • Insert the large ring end of the 6 1.5m wires through the bottom-middle hole of the lug box.
  • Using the screwdriver with the number 2 philips bit, connect the large ring end of the 1.5m red wire, the remaining ring end of the switch-connected 20cm red wire, and the ring end of the other 20cm red wire to the bottom-left screw of the terminal platform.
  • Connect the large ring end of the 5 1.5m black wires and the ring end of 5 20cm black wires to the top 5 screws of the terminal platform. Then connect the ring end of the remaining 20cm black wire to the bottom-right screw of the terminal platform.
  • Using the flathead screwdriver, connect the half centimetre ends of the 6 pieces of 20cm black wire to the lower terminal of the 5 mosfet terminal blocks, and the left terminal of the power terminal block. Note that the mosfet connections from left to right on the terminal platform should go from bottom to top on the solenoid driver. Also connect the half centimetre end of the 1 piece of 20cm red wire to the right terminal of the power terminal block.
  • Insert the 2 sensor units by their wire end into the right-bottom hole of the lug box.
  • Using the flathead screwdriver, connect the bluewhite wires, orange wires, and blue wires into the top, middle, and bottom terminal blocks, respectively, on the right side of the solenoid driver.
  • Using the screwdriver with the number 2 philips bit, screw-tighten the wire clamp at the right-bottom hole of the lug box.

Previous Versions

Future Versions

See Also