CEB Press/Manufacturing Instructions/Controller Box: Difference between revisions

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{{Template:CEB Press Manufacturing Instructions Navbox}}
The CEB Press's controller box houses the switches and electronics that are used to operate the hudraulics of the CEB Press and to process data from sensors on the machine.
{{Warning|The documentation for the CEB Press is undergoing a thorough overhaul.  CAD models and written directions are presently obsolete.  For more information, see [[Talk:CEB_Press#Documentation_overhaul_in_progress]].  When the models, specifications and text on this article have been thoroughly reviewed, updated when necessary, and confirmed as whole and accurate, this warning may be removed.}}


[[Image:ceb-controller.jpg|right]]
=Video=
 
 
== Tools Required ==
 
*Wire Cutters
*Soldering Iron Kit
*PC
*Hand Drill
*Wire Crimper Cutter
==Materials Required ==
 
{{Warning|At the moment there are two different styles of wiring displayed on this page. a transition to a milled circuit board is in prograss but not complete. please be aware of the mixed data}}
 
[[Image:Cutlerhammerbox.jpg|thumb]]
[[Image:Breakoutparts.jpg|thumb|Breakout Shield & Arduino]]
[[Image:Correctedboard.jpg|thumb|PWM Driver]]
 
*Outdoor Main Lug Box - 125Amp, 2Spaces, 4Circuits, 1Phase, 3Wire, 120/240VAC
*Extension Cord
*Alligator clips (2)
*Home wiring box [http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Navigation?storeId=10051&N=+90001+544955&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&cm_sp=d27-_-electrical-_-category_page-_-Electrical-_-electrical_essentials-_-plugs_outlets_cords-_-shop_now]
*Fuse holder - 30Amp Inline Mini Blade-Type [http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102783 Buy]
*12v quick connect plugs (5 pairs)
*Stranded 5A wire ?
*Spade terminals (10)
*Underground phone cable
*Potting compound [http://cgi.ebay.com/EPOXY-RESIN-CIRCUIT-BOARD-POTTING-COMPOUND-CASTING-48OZ-/310186942108?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4838951e9c Buy]
*PVC pipe
*PVC pipe cap
*Stranded Cat 5 cable
*Supermagnets (6) - N42 [http://www.gaussboys.com/ndfeb-magnets/D1203E-N42.html Buy]
*Arduino (Duemilanove) [http://www.amazon.com/Arduino-Duemilanove/dp/B001VK18HC Buy]
*MOSFET replacements (5) - Single 35A 70V 0.028Ω TO-220-3 [http://www.futureelectronics.com/en/technologies/semiconductors/analog/drivers/mosfet-igbt-drivers/Pages/3890498-VNP35N07-E.aspx Buy]  [http://octopart.com/partsearch/#search/requestData&q=VNP14NV04-E Buy]
*Hall Effect sensors (2) - US1881 TO-92 [http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=9312 Buy]
*3/8" V-groove bearings (4) [http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/V-Groove-Bearings/Kit8405 Buy]
*Molex connector [http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812198025&cm_re=molex-_-12-198-025-_-Product Buy] [http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10245&cs_id=1024501&p_id=1313&seq=1&format=1#largeimage Buy] [http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10245&cs_id=1024501&p_id=1316&seq=1&format=2 Buy]
 
 
 
'''Sub-project Materials'''
 
*Arduino breakout shield [http://store.makerbot.com/arduino-breakout-v1-4-pcb.html Buy Board] [http://www.reprap.org/wiki/Arduino_Breakout_1_4 Assembly instructions] (need link to digikey parts)
**NOTE: The board is no longer sold with components.  To order components see the "Electronic Components" on following page:
 
::[http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/CEB_Press/Bill_of_Materials Arduino Components]
 
*PWM Solenoid drivers (2) [http://store.makerbot.com/pwm-driver-v1-1-kit.html Buy Parts] [http://www.reprap.org/wiki/PWM_Driver_1_1 Assembly instructions]
 
*[[CEB_Press/Manufacturing_Instructions/Detroit_Fab_Lab_Solenoid_Driver|Solenoid Driver]]
 
*[[CEB_Press/Manufacturing_Instructions/Sensor_Unit|Sensors]]
 
== Diagrams ==
[[Image:controllerbox.jpg|400px]]
[[Image:Ceb-controllerbox-small.png‎]]
 
*[https://docs.google.com/drawings/edit?id=1Gyv9hAaBZEX9v2RqlvqABIL2TwA2QJOKixl63OoM93o&hl=en google doc drawing of wire diagram (working on it)]


<html>
<html>
<img src="https://docs.google.com/drawings/pub?id=1Gyv9hAaBZEX9v2RqlvqABIL2TwA2QJOKixl63OoM93o&amp;w=480&amp;h=360">
<iframe src="https://player.vimeo.com/video/33885023?title=0&amp;byline=0&amp;portrait=0" width="400" height="225" frameborder="0" webkitAllowFullScreen allowFullScreen></iframe>
</html>
</html>


<html><embed src="http://blip.tv/play/AYHmjUcA" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" width="400" height="400" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true"></embed></html>
=Tools=
 
==Wiring Instructions==
 
The CEB controller involves the following wiring:
*Battery power cord/Fuse/Switch
*Arduino/Breakout Board/Solenoid Driver sandwich
*Circuit board power – solenoid driver and Arduino power connections
*Sensor connections
*Solenoid driver power outputs to solenoids
*Solenoid connections
Note: Reversing the polarity on the power input to the solenoid driver has been shown to fry the solenoid driver board. Other damage may also occur by incorrect connection.
 
 
 
===Battery Power===
[[Image:batteryconnection.jpg|thumb|Fig. 1. Battery connection.]]
[[Image:cebcontroller.jpg|thumb|Fig. 2. CEB controller v2.0 (2011).]]
[[Image:solenoidvalve.jpg|thumb|Fig. 3. Hydraulic solenoid valve.]]
[[Image:alligatorclips.jpg|thumb|Fig. 4. Alligator clips.]]
[[Image:safetydisconnect.jpg|thumb|Fig. 5. Safety disconnect.]]
[[Image:powerswitch.jpg|thumb|Fig. 6. Main power switch.]]
[[Image:terminalstrip.jpg|thumb|Fig. 7. Terminal strip inside the controller box.]]
[[Image:safetyfuse.jpg|thumb|Fig. 8. 10 amp safety fuse.]]
[[Image:arduinolayer.jpg|thumb|Fig. 9. Arduino on bottom.]]
[[Image:breakoutboard.jpg|thumb|Fig. 10. Breakout board.]]
[[Image:driverboard.jpg|thumb|Fig. 11. Solenoid driver board.]]
[[Image:pinlineup.jpg|thumb|Fig. 12. Lining up of pins.]]
[[Image:driverschematic.png|thumb|Fig. 13. Circuit schematic of driver board.]]
[[Image:Drivertraces.png|thumb|Fig. 13b. Traces schematic of driver board.]]
[[Image:testcode.jpg|thumb|Fig. 14.Controller testing GUI.]]
 
The [[Power Cube]] battery, or any other 12V source (Fig. 1), provides electrical power to drive the CEB controller (Fig. 2) and hydraulic solenoid valves (Fig. 3). Alligator clips (Fig. 4) are used to make the connection. The white lead in the power cord is the positive terminal, and the black lead is the negative terminal. This polarity matters.
 
The battery power cable connects to the controller via a safety disconnect (video in last year's CEB documentation) - which are 2 plugs plugged into each other (Fig. 5). Once battery power is connected, the main power switch (Fig. 6) turns on the power to the controller, where the controller feeds power to the solenoids. Inside the controller, a terminal strip (Fig. 7) is used for the ground (black) and positive connections to the circuit boards. A fuse (Fig. 8) should be located between the main power switch and the positive terminal.
 
===Circuit Boards===
 
Three circuit boards are used in the controller. They are plugged one on top of the next in a sandwich configuration. The spacer on the bottom is a standard household electrical outlet, which insulates the circuit boards from the controller box.
 
The bottom board is the Arduino (Fig. 9). The Arduino Breakout Board (Fig. 10) sits on top of the Arduino. The circuit-milled Solenoid Driver Board (Fig. 11) sits on top of the Breakout Board. The pins on each of the 3 boards line up (Fig. 12).
 
===Circuit Board Bill of Materials===
 
The circuit schematic of the Solenoid Driver Board is shown in Fig. 13, and the Bill of Materials here - [[File:driverbom.odt]]. This is care of Blair Evans of the Detroit Fab Lab.


==Circuit Power==
*Straight Pattern Tin Snips


The Arduino and the Solenoid driver must be powered by 12V from the battery. For the Arduino, the connection is made via the Breakout Board. 12V from the battery must be connected to Vin on the shield (bottom right of Shield in Fig.10), and ground must be connected as well. Use the terminals above the Vin.
*Wire Strippers Compatible with 18 and 22 Gauge
Power must be connected directly to the solenoid driver board via the terminals in the upper left of Fig. 15. The + terminal is 12V, and the – terminal is the battery ground.


===Sensor Construction===
*Crimpers


A four wire telephone cable is used to connect to the hall effects sensor.  Only three of the exposed wires are used; orange, blue/white, and blue.  These wires are soldered to the three prongs of the hall effects sensor in order from left to right; orange, blue/white, and blue.  Small shrink wrap should be applied to the wires prior to soldering, and then slid into place to cover the leads to prevent short circuiting.
*2.3mm Flathead Screwdriver


Slide the sensor into a small piece of pvc tube 3.5 inches long.  The pvc will be filled with a potting compound to encapsulate the sensor.  Tightly wrap electrical tape around the wire exiting the pvc tube, creating a seal to hold in the potting compound.  Clamp the pvc vertically with the wire protruding from the bottom and fill the inside of the pvc with the potting compound.
*Screwdriver with Number 2 Philips Bit


<html>
*Needlenose Pliers
<iframe src="https://player.vimeo.com/video/29466230?title=0&amp;byline=0&amp;portrait=0" width="400" height="225" frameborder="0" webkitAllowFullScreen allowFullScreen></iframe>
</html>


===Sensor Connections===
*Measuring Tape


The sensor connections are color coded: blue is the sensor input, blue/white is ground, and orange is 5V.
=Materials=


When looking at the Hall Effect Senor chip (now encapsulated) from the front (front is the side with the writing), the left pin is 5V (orange), the middle pin is ground (blue/white), and the right pin is the sensor input (blue). The pull-up resistor (10k on the Detroit Fab Lab  solenoid driver board, already included on the driver board) is connected between the 5V and sensor input terminals.
*Case


To connect the sensors, use the terminals on the breakout board to make the connections. '''Use the Analog 0 (A0) and Analog 1 (A1) pins on the breakout board to connect to the main cylinder and secondary cylinder sensor inputs, respectively.''' Note: the 3rd sensor (soil shaker) is optional, and it will not be used here. Connect the sensor 5V connections to the corresponding terminals on the breakout board, and connect the grounds to the corresponding breakout board terminals as well. The sensor connections should look like that shown in Fig. 16.
[http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/CEB_Press/Manufacturing_Instructions/Case Assembly Instructions]


== Testing from Zero==
*[2] Sensor Units


*Arduino Testing - Preparation
[http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/CEB_Press/Manufacturing_Instructions/Sensor_Unit Assembly Instructions]
*Note: For this testing procedure, you will need a computer with Arduino software, Python and pyserial loaded.
# Solder 100 Ohm resistors to the negative (short) ends of three LEDs.
# Connect the Positive ends of the LEDs to Ports 11, 12 and 13 of the Breakout Shield
# Connect the resistor ends to GND port of the Breakout Shield
# Double-check the connections!
# Connect the Arduino to the Computer using a USB Cable
# Download [[Arduino Environment]]
# Open the Arduino Environment
##Double click on executable text file in Ubuntu
##Select the board that you are using (Duemilanove 328) under Tools / Board.
# Select the Appropriate Serial Connection under Tools / Serial Ports.
##Troubleshooting - if Tools / Serial Ports is blanked out, connect Arduino board
##Generally, the appropriate serial connection will be the number of the lowest unused USB port starting at 0.
# Download the <html><a href = "http://openpario.mime.oregonstate.edu/documents/1250">CEB_Testing_Program.pde</a></html>
# Open the CEB Testing program in last step in the Arduino program by going to File / Open...
##Note: if the above file is not in its own folder, Arduino Environment will create a folder in Ubuntu
# Load the CEB Testing Program into the Arduino using the Upload Button in File / Upload to I/O Board
# Download the Python-based <html><a href = "https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&pid=explorer&chrome=true&srcid=0B2ZOu2AF-TF5MTgzMjM1MjgtYzQwMS00ODQ5LTlkMTgtYjg3YmI1NzRkNmY0&hl=en_US">Arduino Testing Program</a></html>
# Open the Python-based <html><a href = "https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&pid=explorer&chrome=true&srcid=0B2ZOu2AF-TF5MTgzMjM1MjgtYzQwMS00ODQ5LTlkMTgtYjg3YmI1NzRkNmY0&hl=en_US">Arduino Testing Program</a></html>
##Run python code in Terminal - python CEB_Testing.py
##You may need to install python-imaging, python-imaging-tk, python-serial, arduino and avrdude in Linux to make it work
##Try this command in Debian-Based Linux Distros such as Ubuntu: sudo apt-get install python-imaging python-imaging-tk python-serial arduino avrdude
##You may need to install <html><a href = "http://arduino.cc/en/Main/Software">Arduino for Windows</a>,&nbsp;<a href = "http://www.pythonware.com/products/pil/">PIL</a> and <a href = "http://pypi.python.org/pypi/pyserial"> Pyserial</a> if you are using Windows.</html>
##If you are using a Mac, I have no idea what you'll have to do.
# Connect to the Arduino using the GUI button
#'''Arduino - Testing''' - Click the Blink Test Button to Check if the Arduino is working.  LED 13 should blink on and off.
# Click the Sensor Test Button.  The Arduino’s sensors should cause LEDs 11, 12 and 13 to blink on and off in the presence of the magnets.
# Click the MOSFET Testing Buttons.  The green LEDs on the MOSFET should blink on and off accordingly.
#'''Solenoid Connections'''  - Cut five 2’ pieces of 16-gauge black wire and five 2’ pieces of 16-gauge red wire.
# Strip ¼” off each of the five black and five red wires.
# Tin the ends of each of the wires.
# Attach black wires to each of the negative terminals of the MOSFET connectors on the Detroit Fab-Lab board.
# Attach red wires to each of the positive terminals of the MOSFET connectors on the Detroit Fab-Lab Board.
# Run the black and red wires through an available hole in the Electronics Box.(Should we use the left-side hole for this???)
# When all wires have been checked, tighten each of the cable clamps.
#'''Solenoid Testing''' - Remove the bridge connector between the Common Ports of each solenoid unit.
# Connect each of the five red-black solenoid wire pairs to terminals in the solenoids.  Black wires should attach to the Common ports and Red Wires to the Solenoid a and Solenoid b Ports
# Double-check the connections!
# Test the Solenoids with the Python-based CEB Press Testing program.


===Notes===
*Solenoid Driver v2


Here are errors upon running the Python script and upon trying to upload the CEB Testing Program to the arduino:
[http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/CEB_Press/Manufacturing_Instructions/Detroit_Fab_Lab_Solenoid_Driver_v2 Assembly Instructions]


[[Image:conttesterrors.jpg|500px]]
*18 Gauge Red Wire


= Fabrication Steps =
*18 Gauge Black Wire


*Assemble entire Control Box
*Ring Insulated Connector with Small Hole for 10-12 Gauge
**Blue spacer box - Arduino attached on top with 2 small screws. Slightly slanted attachment to make screw holes fit on blue spacer box
**Terminal in electrical outlet box cut in half on metal cutoff saw to create + and - terminals


== Controller Box Preparation ==
*[14] Ring Insulated Connectors for 10-12 Gauge


== Soldering of LEDs & 100-Ohm Resistor==
*[6] Ring Insulated Connectors for 14-16 Gauge


<html>
=Steps=
<iframe src="https://player.vimeo.com/video/30576131?title=0&amp;byline=0&amp;portrait=0" width="500" height="281" frameborder="0" webkitAllowFullScreen allowFullScreen></iframe>
</html>


Part of the assembly of the CEB Press Controller Box requires two LEDs, each soldered to an 100-Ohm resistor.  You will need:
*Mount the solenoid driver on top of the Arduino microcontroller.
* a soldering iron
* a soldering stand
* pliers
* a spool of soldering wire
* a wet paper towel
* 2 100-ohm resistors
* 2 light emitting diodes (LEDs)
* a multimeter.


#LEDs have two wires or "leads", distinguishable by the lengths of the wires. The positive wire, which is longer, will be connected to a positive terminal while the shorter, negative wire will connect to the 100-Ohms resistor.  
*Using the tin snips, cut 6 pieces of 20cm black wire, 2 pieces of 20cm red wire, 5 pieces of 1.5m black wire, and 1 piece of 1.5m red wire.


Using a pair of pliers, bend the tip of the negative wire into a small hook.
*Using the wire strippers at 22 gauge, strip half a centimetre at one end of the 6 pieces of 20cm black wire and 1 piece of 20cm red wire.


#Make another hook in one of the two wires of the 100-Ohms resistor, and hook the LED and resistor wires together by those hooks. Use the pair of pliers to mash the hooks together; this will help make the process of soldering these two components together much easier.
*Using the wire strippers at 18 gauge, strip a centimetre at the other ends of the 6 pieces of 20cm black wire and the 1 piece of 20cm red wire, as well as both ends of the other 1 piece of 20cm red wire, the 5 pieces of 1.5m black wire, and the 1 piece of 1.5m red wire.


During and after soldering, use pliers to handle the wires, as they will be too hot to touch. Electronic components, especially LEDs, can incur damage from too much heat, so you will need to solder quickly.
*Using the crimper, crimp the 10 to 12 gauge ring insulated connector at one of the 1 centimetre stripped ends of the 6 pieces of 20cm black wire, the 2 pieces of 20cm red wire, the 5 pieces of 1.5m black wire, and the 1 piece of 1.5m red wire.
Also crimp the 10 to 12 gauge small hole ring insulated connector at the remaining 1cm end of the 20cm red wire and crimp the 14 to 16 gauge ring connector to the remaining 1cm ends of the 5 pieces of 1.5m black wire and 1 piece of 1.5m red wire.


#Wipe the tip of the soldering iron after it has heated to clean the surface of any oxides that might infringe the thermal energy transfer process.
*Using the screwdriver with the number 2 philips bit, connect the small ring end of the 20cm red wire to the remaining power switch terminal.


#Set up your solder spool so that the end of the solder wire is bent up. "Tin" the soldering iron by touching the tip of the iron to the end of the soldering wire, just enough to get a small bead of molten solder at the tip of the soldering iron.  
*Insert the large ring end of the 6 1.5m wires through the bottom-middle hole of the lug box.


#To heat the joint between the resister and the LED, grip the LED side of the wire with pliers, and touch the wires to the soldering iron near the joint. Then quickly touch the joint to the soldering wire.  If the joint is hot enough, the solder will melt readily and draw up into the joint, absorbing into a bead.  
*Using the screwdriver with the number 2 philips bit, connect the large ring end of the 1.5m red wire, the remaining ring end of the switch-connected 20cm red wire, and the ring end of the other 20cm red wire to the bottom-left screw of the terminal platform.


#Replace the iron on its stand, and set down the resistor/LED to allow the solder to cool. The soldered joint should have a silvery luster, which indicates a good solder.
*Connect the large ring end of the 5 1.5m black wires and the ring end of 5 20cm black wires to the top 5 screws of the terminal platform. Then connect the ring end of the remaining 20cm black wire to the bottom-right screw of the terminal platform.


#Repeat this process on the second resistor/LED pair, then clean the tip of the soldering iron by wiping it on the wet towel. Tin the tip to prevent oxide formation on the tip during non-operation, and then unplug your soldering iron to let it cool on the soldering stand.
*Using the flathead screwdriver, connect the half centimetre ends of the 6 pieces of 20cm black wire to the lower terminal of the 5 mosfet terminal blocks, and the left terminal of the power terminal block. Note that the mosfet connections from left to right on the terminal platform should go from bottom to top on the solenoid driver. Also connect the half centimetre end of the 1 piece of 20cm red wire to the right terminal of the power terminal block.


#Give the wires and their solder some time to cool. Once cooled, test the resistance of the joints with a multimeter; they should have zero or almost zero resistance.
*Insert the 2 sensor units by their wire end into the right-bottom hole of the lug box.


*Using the flathead screwdriver, connect the bluewhite wires, orange wires, and blue wires into the top, middle, and bottom terminal blocks, respectively, on the right side of the solenoid driver.


This completes the soldering of the 2 LED & resistor pairs for the CEB Press Controller Box.
*Using the screwdriver with the number 2 philips bit, screw-tighten the wire clamp at the right-bottom hole of the lug box.
 
== Installation of the Controller Board, Breakout Board, & Solenoid Driver Board into the Controller Box
The main components of the controller box are an electrical enclosure with an Arduino microcontroller board, an Arduino breakout board, and a solenoid driver board. You will need:
 
 
#To begin, clear the mounting platform by gently bending away all of the wiring.
 
Next, place the microcontroller on the blue mounting box, and the breakout board atop the microcontroller, matching the breakout board's male pins to the microcontroller's female pins. The "tops" of the boards should be aligned to the left of the control box. Center the boards to leave as much room as possible around the breakout board. Remove the breakout board while holding the microcontroller in place, and mark screw locations on opposite corners. Remove the microcontroller, and carefully drill the top hole at the mark. Attach the microcontroller with one screw and mark the second hole again for accuracy. Remove the board and drill the second hole. Then attach the microcontroller with small screws. Be careful not to screw the board in too tightly, or the board may bend or crack.
 
Next, mount the breakout board onto the microcontroller. To accommodate the microcontroller's USB port and power jack, some pins on the breakout board must be removed. Snip the third, fourth and fifth pins from the left and the third and fourth pins from the right on the underside of the bottom of the breakout board. Then gently install the breakout board atop the microcontroller.
 
Next, connect the power wire from the control box to the breakout board. Use a precision screwdriver to unscrew the terminal labelled "V in" located second from the right on the top terminal block of the breakout board. Attach the red positive voltage wire from the control box to this terminal. Insert the wire and screw the terminal back down while continuing to hold the wire until it is secured.
 
Connect the black ground wire to the leftmost ground terminal (GND) at the bottom of the breakout board. Connect the two orange ground wires to the two "GND" terminals that are 5th and 6th from the left of the top terminal block. Connect the two blue sensor positive voltage wires to the two "5V" terminals that are the 5th and 6th terminals from the right of the top terminal block.
 
Connect the two sensor signal wires, which are white with blue stripes, to the "A0" and "A1" terminals which are the 7th and 8th terminals from the top of the right terminal block. Make a note of which wire goes to A0 and which wire goes to A1, as they are different sensors. The sensor that wires into A0 is for the primary hydraulic cylinder and the sensor that wires into A1 is for the secondary hydraulic cylinder.
 
Now connect the two soldered LED/resistor pairs to the breakout board one at a time. The procedure to soldering these is explained in a separate video. Bend the wires on each end to facilitate the connection. Connect the LED end into terminal blocks 12 and 13, which are the second and third lowermost terminals of the right terminal block. Connect the resistor end to any of the ground terminals on the bottom terminal block.
 
Mount the solenoid driver board onto the breakout board. This driver board will be oriented such that the five terminal blocks that go to the solenoids are on the right side facing right, and the power terminal points down.
 
Connect the ground to the solenoid driver board. Take a piece of stranded 18-gauge wire long enough to reach from the bottom-left ground terminals of the breakout board to the solenoid driver negative power terminal. Strip a quarter inch off both ends of the wire, tin the ends of the wire with a soldering iron, and connect.
 
Note that the power terminal block has both ground and +12V connections, and if you reverse this polarity, you will burn out the driver board.
 
Now connect the power to the solenoid driver board.Take a piece of red 18-gauge wire long enough to reach from the V in terminal on the breakout board to the solenoid driver positive power terminal. Strip a quarter inch off both ends of the wire, tin the ends, and connect.
 
There are 5 connections going to the hydraulic valve of the CEB press.  These are labeled 1-5. Strip 1/4" from the ends of each wire, tin the ends, and install them into the negative solenoid terminals. Start with 5 at the top and go down sequentially. It may be necessary to trim off a few strands of the ends of the wires to get them to fit in the terminals, but do not cut any more than necessary.
 
Finally, ensure that the terminal block screws are firmly fastened to the connected wires and that the microcontroller, breakout, and solenoid driver boards are firmly mounted together.
 
This completes the installation of the controller board, breakout board, and solenoid driver board into the  Controller Box. In other videos, you can see how the controller box was prepared, and how the controller box integrates with the mechanical part of the CEB press. For more information on the CEB Press, please visit the Open Source Ecology Wiki.
 
 
 
Attach the Sensors
 
#Feed the CAT-5 ends of the sensor cables through either the power cable hole or the right side hole of the Electronics Box.
#Attach the '''orange ends''' of the sensor wires to '''GND terminals on the Breakout Shield'''.
#Attach the '''blue ends''' of the sensor wires to the '''5V terminals''' on the Breakout Shield.
#Attach the '''blue-white ends''' of the sensor wires to '''terminals A0, A1 and A'''2 on the Breakout Shield.
 
==Previous Testing Procedure==
 
*Test Arduino on laptop - for example by [http://www.arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/Blink blinking Channel 13 output on Duemilanove].
 
*Test sensors by passing magnets over them. See this sample code.
**[http://www.sparkfun.com/datasheets/Components/General/Hall-US1881EUA.pdf Data Sheet]
**Supply voltage is 5V from the Arduino breakout shield
**The pins are +,-, OUT reading from top (printed / smaller face)
**The output is "Open Drain" - this means you need a "pull up" resistor on the output (10K connected to +)
**This model is "latching" which means it turns on from one pole, and off by the other, remembering its state in the meantime.
 
Controller checklist (ie, So you don't burn your components, check these):
 
#Arduino powers on with USB cord? Check.
#Arduino works - ex. blink Channel 13 with an LED? Check. Atmega 328 Duemilanove - on Ubuntu 10.04.
#Controller main power switch light red when battery is connected and switch is turned on? Check.
#With Molex connectors disconnected, 12V appears at pins 1 and 2?
#With Molex connectors plugged into solenoid driver boards, main power switch turns the drivers on?
#Arduino powers on with battery supply after flipping main switch on?
#Solenoid drivers are turned on with main switch?
#Solenoids turn all of their MOSFETS as seen via indicator lights?
#Solenoids can cycle the solenoid valves?
C
 
 
 
*Test solenoid valves by attaching power to battery and running this sample code for 2 solenoid channels.
**Note we can reduce 3 solenoid channels to 2 by running both the shaker motor and the drawer cylinder from the same channel - the shaker is activated at every stroke of the drawer, as there is ample hydraulic fluid flow available in that part of the overall CEB operation cycle.
 
----
 
other pages with info that should end up on this page


==Previous Versions==
==Previous Versions==
Line 316: Line 87:
[[Category: CEB Press]]
[[Category: CEB Press]]
[[Category:CEB Press Fabrication]]
[[Category:CEB Press Fabrication]]
==See Also==
*[[Terminal Block]] - replacing screw platform in these instructions
*[[CEB_Press/Pictures_of_Newest_Controller|Pictures of Newest Controller]] - these pictures are of a controller box that is newer than the one described here

Latest revision as of 02:20, 17 February 2017

The CEB Press's controller box houses the switches and electronics that are used to operate the hudraulics of the CEB Press and to process data from sensors on the machine.

Video

Tools

  • Straight Pattern Tin Snips
  • Wire Strippers Compatible with 18 and 22 Gauge
  • Crimpers
  • 2.3mm Flathead Screwdriver
  • Screwdriver with Number 2 Philips Bit
  • Needlenose Pliers
  • Measuring Tape

Materials

  • Case

Assembly Instructions

  • [2] Sensor Units

Assembly Instructions

  • Solenoid Driver v2

Assembly Instructions

  • 18 Gauge Red Wire
  • 18 Gauge Black Wire
  • Ring Insulated Connector with Small Hole for 10-12 Gauge
  • [14] Ring Insulated Connectors for 10-12 Gauge
  • [6] Ring Insulated Connectors for 14-16 Gauge

Steps

  • Mount the solenoid driver on top of the Arduino microcontroller.
  • Using the tin snips, cut 6 pieces of 20cm black wire, 2 pieces of 20cm red wire, 5 pieces of 1.5m black wire, and 1 piece of 1.5m red wire.
  • Using the wire strippers at 22 gauge, strip half a centimetre at one end of the 6 pieces of 20cm black wire and 1 piece of 20cm red wire.
  • Using the wire strippers at 18 gauge, strip a centimetre at the other ends of the 6 pieces of 20cm black wire and the 1 piece of 20cm red wire, as well as both ends of the other 1 piece of 20cm red wire, the 5 pieces of 1.5m black wire, and the 1 piece of 1.5m red wire.
  • Using the crimper, crimp the 10 to 12 gauge ring insulated connector at one of the 1 centimetre stripped ends of the 6 pieces of 20cm black wire, the 2 pieces of 20cm red wire, the 5 pieces of 1.5m black wire, and the 1 piece of 1.5m red wire.

Also crimp the 10 to 12 gauge small hole ring insulated connector at the remaining 1cm end of the 20cm red wire and crimp the 14 to 16 gauge ring connector to the remaining 1cm ends of the 5 pieces of 1.5m black wire and 1 piece of 1.5m red wire.

  • Using the screwdriver with the number 2 philips bit, connect the small ring end of the 20cm red wire to the remaining power switch terminal.
  • Insert the large ring end of the 6 1.5m wires through the bottom-middle hole of the lug box.
  • Using the screwdriver with the number 2 philips bit, connect the large ring end of the 1.5m red wire, the remaining ring end of the switch-connected 20cm red wire, and the ring end of the other 20cm red wire to the bottom-left screw of the terminal platform.
  • Connect the large ring end of the 5 1.5m black wires and the ring end of 5 20cm black wires to the top 5 screws of the terminal platform. Then connect the ring end of the remaining 20cm black wire to the bottom-right screw of the terminal platform.
  • Using the flathead screwdriver, connect the half centimetre ends of the 6 pieces of 20cm black wire to the lower terminal of the 5 mosfet terminal blocks, and the left terminal of the power terminal block. Note that the mosfet connections from left to right on the terminal platform should go from bottom to top on the solenoid driver. Also connect the half centimetre end of the 1 piece of 20cm red wire to the right terminal of the power terminal block.
  • Insert the 2 sensor units by their wire end into the right-bottom hole of the lug box.
  • Using the flathead screwdriver, connect the bluewhite wires, orange wires, and blue wires into the top, middle, and bottom terminal blocks, respectively, on the right side of the solenoid driver.
  • Using the screwdriver with the number 2 philips bit, screw-tighten the wire clamp at the right-bottom hole of the lug box.

Previous Versions

Future Versions

See Also

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