FeF Fuel Tank Farm: Difference between revisions

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**Plumbed ones simply need to be run every so often (to prevent rust/dry joints/stale water etc), and ensured they don’t freeze up if outdoors in the winter etx)
**Plumbed ones simply need to be run every so often (to prevent rust/dry joints/stale water etc), and ensured they don’t freeze up if outdoors in the winter etx)
*Finally a sink for handwashing/custodial use is a nice splurge as well, but not 100% needed if the garden hose outlet and/or emergency wash station are there
*Finally a sink for handwashing/custodial use is a nice splurge as well, but not 100% needed if the garden hose outlet and/or emergency wash station are there
=Initial Rough Plan BOM=
*Earthworks+Surveying Equipment
*X Kilos of [[Hydrophobic Concrete]] preferably,  some High Preformance or even rated portland mix would PROBABLY work though
**[[Hydrophobic Concrete]] MAY mean you don’t have to deal with [[Concrete Coatings]] for sealing as it would be “intrinsically sealed”
***Paint/Epoxy Coatings are a PAIN both in cost,  maintenance (paint chipping/flaking), and also generate Micro/Nanoplastic Pollution short of SOME coatings so really should be avoided if at all possible
**[[Concrete Masonry Units]] + [[Mortar]] sufficient to make that containment wall
***or POTENTIALLY a structural wall,  although a [[Pole Barn]] if sufficiently rated may be cheaper than a fully brick walled structure
==Tank Options==
===Cheap===
*Either IBC Totes or Drums etc + a [[Spill Containment Pallet]]
*Crappy and may require a LOT of these to get some proper storage capacity, but it COULD work + would save money up front
===Good===
*[[Turner Tanks]] or similar “basic” tanks
*May have to spend more money on Secondary Containment]] Capacity, depending on how that math goes
**ie if Brick Containment/Pad Area is cheap,  this may be the way to go,  if it’s expensive, the Better/Best Option may be more wise
*Ideally space them out such that workers can get all around the tank for inspection+cleaning any leaks etc
*Depending on Height,  room for Ladders,  Scissor Lifts, or Heavy Equipment etc may also be advisable
===Better===
*”Enhanced” IBC Totes like [[ISO Tanks]] or [[TransCube Tanks]] etc
*These are easily moved around,  and also have built in Secondary Containment]] thus BY ONLY CODE don’t even need anything else
**For quality of life + going above and beyond code though a Pad + Small Tertiary Containment would be very nice, as long as DFC+DFD is taken into account etc
===Best===
*Granted this only really applies to larger volumes but larger [[Above Ground Horizontal Storage Tanks]] or even larger (but small in diameter) [[Internal Floating Roof Above Ground Storage Tanks]] / [[External Roof Above Ground Storage Tanks]]
**If a “Center Sump” version is used these are VERY easy to clean/maintain
**Also if an IFR is used,  either Cable Based,  or Adjustable High/Low Leg Systems etc too
**Also at MINIMUM 2 Manways,  3-4 Preferred
**Again if splurging/doing it VERY nice,  Water and/or Air and/or Electricity (mainly water though) at at least one of these manways
**Also sufficient space such that a Manway can be easily accessed+worked on (ie not directly against a wall)
*TO AN EXTENT for larger tank farms Geotextile Barrier + Gravel Based Foundations+Containment Dykes are used
**While these are cheaper,  they are essentially the Gravel Roads of Tank Farms,
***Easy to make, but keeping them in working order gets more and more expensive
****During storms they can turn into mud pits
****Long term [[Foundation Settling]] and [[Pothole]] formation can occur
****Unlike Concrete,  cleaning is difficult.  You can pressure wash a concrete pad,  gravel can only really be raked out/added to
****Finally due to tires/boots/wind etc over time the gravel will scatter,  short of EVENTUAL (geological time scale essentially) erosion etc Concrete just ''stays put''
***The geotextile can also dry rot,  or become torn
*Finally if being ESPECIALLY proper, installing one or more [[Monitor Wells]] ,  and doing soil+water samples before construction could help show you are doing things right “ie soil was either not contaminated before, or X-contaminated,  and we kept it the same”
**Not “is that dirt oil contaminated due to crappy tank farm operation? leading to potential investigation/drama/bad pr etc


=Internal Links=
=Internal Links=

Latest revision as of 14:44, 30 April 2026

Basics

  • This page aims to outline the potential for a Tank Farm for Various Fuels at FeF

Nearest Fueling Station

  • If there is a fuel station nearby, it may not be worth the trouble!
    • Granted conversely, depending on amouts of Fuel used onsite, how far the nearest station is, and if the nearby ones don’t carry EFG , Diesel / Off-Road Diesel , or Propane etc it MAY make sense regardless

Bulk Fuel Delivery Rates

Missouri Legal Requirements

Missouri Department of Natural Resources

Missouri Department of Agriculture

  • MDOA
    • The MDOA Page Titled “Fuel Device Safety and Accuracy Program”
      • TLDR: Most likely Annual or Biannual Inspections + Proof of Insurance + Designs Shall Comply with National Fire Protection Association (NFPA) 30, 30A and NEC, 1996 Edition.
      • Also if SELLING fuel, when inspecting they also check you aren’t selling less than a gallon but charging for a gallon etc (not that would really apply to us, unless a pump gets old/uncalibrated maybe?)

Local Service Providers

Bulk Fuel Suppliers

  • For the Fuel Itself

AN Petroleum

Moffit Services

  • Moffit Services’ Main Website
  • Website had some obnoxious popups, but may be a “bigger fish” / better in that way and/or cheaper?
  • They also show they offer the following: (at least pre-asking if YOUR LOCATION can get all those options without an “out in the boonies fee” lol)
  • Also mention “ Drive your productivity with Mobil Diesel Efficient™ fuel”
    • This is essentially the same rationale behind TopTier Gasoline but for Diesel
      • MAY be a proprietary brand though, unlike TopTier which is moreso a “Qualify, Apply, and MAYBE pay a royalty” Trademark Certification type deal?

World Kinect

Environmental Services

  • For Tank Cleanings/Water Draws, Spill Response, and Cleaning Before any Confined Space Entry work by other Contractors and/or Before Road Transport for Repair/Decommissioning
  • They MIGHT be able to do “Compliance Inspections” if that is needed, AND can’t / shouldn’t be done internally
    • ie getting a piece of paper from a third party may look nicer for regulators etc than an internal “oh SURE we checked it + it’s fine!”

Specialized Tank Cleaning/Inspection/Repair/Painting etc

  • Ie not a “blind” Clean In Place Tool such as a Gamma Jet / Butterworth etc, but essentially the Industrial Equivalent of Lacroscopic Surgery
  • Also (especially smaller) Environmental Services companies may not do mechanical repairs themselves
    • They may be able to sub-contract on their own though, so this route is worth asking about as well

Potential Options

Good

Better

  • Same as good plus:

Best

Capacity

Initial Setup Cost Rough Plan

  • This section aims to determine what the cost would be OUTSIDE of the operating costs of buying fuel/insurance/inspection etc
  • This also for this study rules out the use of fuel delivery business financed-loans / “fuel farm as a service” stuff etc

Legal Fees

  • If relevant local lawyer fees for getting all paperwork setup+kosher+maybe talking with contractors etc

Surveying/Basic Earthworks

  • Could maybe be OSE/OBI Internal Work
  • Just Leveling the Site Out, MAYBE using a Stone Picker, Rotary Cultivating+Compacting if we’re feeling fancy

Concrete Slab + CMU Containment Wall (and Optional Building/Roof Over/Around Said Pad

  • This would be for the Secondary Containment/Tertiary Containment, depending on what tank style is used
  • To an extent making it into a roofed Warehouse / Pole Barn would be nicer to prevent Sun Damage / Reduce Evaporative Losses, and TO AN EXTENT keep leaves/dust and dirt (and simply rainwater too) out of the containment
    • More up front cost, but less/no time spent cleaning leaves out of containment, no need for/less use of Sump Pumps for rainwater removal, etc
    • All in all upfront cost yes, but WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAY nicer in the end (as long as DFC / DFD is still taken into account)

Roads+Sidewalk Into/Around Said Building

  • Ideally there would be a Perimeter Sidewalk around said containment wall+pad (as well as numerous Containment Wall Stairs (ideally one or more on each side)
  • A “Parallel Loading Dock” / Road Shaped Driveway Parallel to the Tank Farm / “Hose Switchboard” Leading to Said Tanks, and/or an “A-Shaped Driveway” / “Y-Shaped Driveway” would be ideal as well
    • This should also act as a temporary Containment Pad for Fuel Delivery Trucks
  • A Covered Roof for Inclement Weather on this would be a nice to have, although not as essential as over the tank farm itself.
    • Ideally there is a sump for rainwater, a slope that allows for easy drainage of said rainwater to the sump (and/or DFC in the event of spills; Design for Spill Cleanup etc)
      • If electing to use a Sump Pump for removal of rainwater, a roof (and landscaping choices) can help reduce leaves/debris accumulation in this
        • To an extent though, Maximum Height would be a factor due to the large trucks pulling into the area

Electrical

  • At LEAST 120v Power to the Tank Farm Switchboard Pump and/or Sump Pumps etc
  • Ideally having Outlets out there for incidentals AND having an Engineered Ground with a high quality Grounding Post would be ideal for Fuel Transfer Trucks + Incidentals such as Grounding and Bonding a Pneumatically Driven Exhaust Fan etc when doing CSE Work

Pneumatics

Fire Suppression + Fire Extinguisher Equipment

  • Might need Fire Monitors + Fire Hydrants / a Central Fire Suppression Foam System for larger tank farms
  • Most likely though Rated Fire Extinguishers + Placards / No Smoking or Open Light Signs + MAYBE A Wheeled Fire Extinguisher etc may be sufficient
  • Also MAYBE a Fire Alarm System
    • This could PROBABLY be DIY, but if need be Pye-Barker or some similar contractor could be used
      • It’s all basically 120/240/Low Voltage work, main issue would be getting the proper gear to install (ie what Home Depot or Menards has vs what they or a supply house has!), and the aforementioned “insurance likes someone else’s signature” bits)

Plumbing

  • Simple PVC or PEX based Cold Water for an Emergency Eyewash and Emergency Shower station
  • Also a garden hose hookup for incidentals
    • If feeling fancy having an outlet not more than 5 feet or so from each Manway on large tanks would be VERY nice to reduce long hose runs etc
      • This is also much harder to add later, but the cost of PVC etc while doing the construction/concrete and all that
    • The other fancy option kind of ties in with Firefighting but using Chicago Hose / Fire Hydrant style plumbing+outlets
      • Worst case scenario you neck it down+use a garden hose, but if you need TONS of water you have it
  • Alternately Self Contained Emergency Eyewash Stations / Self Contained Emergency Showers DO exist, but they have to be Op-Checked + Maintained When Expired etc more once setup than their plumbed counterparts
    • Plumbed ones simply need to be run every so often (to prevent rust/dry joints/stale water etc), and ensured they don’t freeze up if outdoors in the winter etx)
  • Finally a sink for handwashing/custodial use is a nice splurge as well, but not 100% needed if the garden hose outlet and/or emergency wash station are there

Initial Rough Plan BOM

  • Earthworks+Surveying Equipment
  • X Kilos of Hydrophobic Concrete preferably, some High Preformance or even rated portland mix would PROBABLY work though
    • Hydrophobic Concrete MAY mean you don’t have to deal with Concrete Coatings for sealing as it would be “intrinsically sealed”
      • Paint/Epoxy Coatings are a PAIN both in cost, maintenance (paint chipping/flaking), and also generate Micro/Nanoplastic Pollution short of SOME coatings so really should be avoided if at all possible
    • Concrete Masonry Units + Mortar sufficient to make that containment wall
      • or POTENTIALLY a structural wall, although a Pole Barn if sufficiently rated may be cheaper than a fully brick walled structure

Tank Options

Cheap

  • Either IBC Totes or Drums etc + a Spill Containment Pallet
  • Crappy and may require a LOT of these to get some proper storage capacity, but it COULD work + would save money up front

Good

  • Turner Tanks or similar “basic” tanks
  • May have to spend more money on Secondary Containment]] Capacity, depending on how that math goes
    • ie if Brick Containment/Pad Area is cheap, this may be the way to go, if it’s expensive, the Better/Best Option may be more wise
  • Ideally space them out such that workers can get all around the tank for inspection+cleaning any leaks etc
  • Depending on Height, room for Ladders, Scissor Lifts, or Heavy Equipment etc may also be advisable

Better

  • ”Enhanced” IBC Totes like ISO Tanks or TransCube Tanks etc
  • These are easily moved around, and also have built in Secondary Containment]] thus BY ONLY CODE don’t even need anything else
    • For quality of life + going above and beyond code though a Pad + Small Tertiary Containment would be very nice, as long as DFC+DFD is taken into account etc

Best

  • Granted this only really applies to larger volumes but larger Above Ground Horizontal Storage Tanks or even larger (but small in diameter) Internal Floating Roof Above Ground Storage Tanks / External Roof Above Ground Storage Tanks
    • If a “Center Sump” version is used these are VERY easy to clean/maintain
    • Also if an IFR is used, either Cable Based, or Adjustable High/Low Leg Systems etc too
    • Also at MINIMUM 2 Manways, 3-4 Preferred
    • Again if splurging/doing it VERY nice, Water and/or Air and/or Electricity (mainly water though) at at least one of these manways
    • Also sufficient space such that a Manway can be easily accessed+worked on (ie not directly against a wall)
  • TO AN EXTENT for larger tank farms Geotextile Barrier + Gravel Based Foundations+Containment Dykes are used
    • While these are cheaper, they are essentially the Gravel Roads of Tank Farms,
      • Easy to make, but keeping them in working order gets more and more expensive
        • During storms they can turn into mud pits
        • Long term Foundation Settling and Pothole formation can occur
        • Unlike Concrete, cleaning is difficult. You can pressure wash a concrete pad, gravel can only really be raked out/added to
        • Finally due to tires/boots/wind etc over time the gravel will scatter, short of EVENTUAL (geological time scale essentially) erosion etc Concrete just stays put
      • The geotextile can also dry rot, or become torn
  • Finally if being ESPECIALLY proper, installing one or more Monitor Wells , and doing soil+water samples before construction could help show you are doing things right “ie soil was either not contaminated before, or X-contaminated, and we kept it the same”
    • Not “is that dirt oil contaminated due to crappy tank farm operation? leading to potential investigation/drama/bad pr etc

Internal Links

External Links

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