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=Introduction=
{{Category=Farm equipment}}
In order to provide eggs and [[chickens]] to [[Factor e Farm]] Dream Team 30, we will need to raise our chicken population from 24 to about 300 chickens in 2009. For this, we need to hatch the chickens in an incubator, as natural brooding does not do the trick. We are getting 8 eggs per day even now, and this should increase to about 20. At this rate, it would take us one month of hatching to increase our flock to the needed level. We should aim for an incubator with 48 egg capacity, and do about 5 hatching runs.


In order to provide eggs and chicken to [[Factor e Farm]] [[Dream Team 30]], we will need to raise our chicken population from 24 to about 300 chickens in 2009. For this, we need to hatch the chickens in an incubator, as natural brooding does not do the trick. We are getting 8 eggs per day even now, and this should increase to about 20. At this rate, it would take us one month of hatching to increase our flock to the needed level. We should aim for an incubator with 48 egg capacity, and do about 5 hatching runs.
[[Image:hexahatch.jpg|thumb]]
[[image:hexahatch_design_1_3d.jpg|thumb]]


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=Design Rationale=
=Design Rationale=


Naturally, hens take care of the eggs by turning them often and sitting on them to maintain the necessary conditions for hatching. The hatchability of eggs in this situation can be variable. Some hens can get 100% hatchability but this is not guaranteed.
Naturally, hens take care of the eggs by turning them often and sitting on them to maintain the necessary conditions for hatching. Most types of chickens have been bred for high egg production though, which means they have been bred to not "brood" as much, to not sit on eggs, because when they are brooding they won't lay any more eggs. Since most hens only brood under certain conditions then most of their eggs will never be warmed and protected until they hatch, and so an incubator is needed to hatch more eggs.  


An incubator keeps a large number of fertilized eggs safe and warm under ideal conditions until they hatch, ideally with a higher than normal hatchability percentage.  
Some types of chickens are more broody, since some breeds have been bred for looks and not egg production they will brood on any eggs they are given. There are hundreds of different breeds in the bantam size, and any that have a large fowl counterpart tend to have the same traits. So there are breeds of bantams that are good broodies, and breeds that are not. There are also many breeds of large fowl that make excellent broodies. So a natural route for hatching chickens is to have an egg producing hen to lay eggs and a broodie hen to brood them.
 
An incubator keeps a large number of fertilized eggs safe and warm under ideal conditions until they hatch, in place of brooding hens.


Chickens may be propagated readily from fertile eggs - so freerange chickens can be maintained in a healthy population even in presence of heavy losses to predators. A simple incubator should be available on any diversified farm. Natural chicken birth rates typically happen too late and too infrequently in the season for the chicken population to become self-sustaining. Freerange chickens, which do not require supplemental feeding - could be a great part of a community local food strategy.  
Chickens may be propagated readily from fertile eggs - so freerange chickens can be maintained in a healthy population even in presence of heavy losses to predators. A simple incubator should be available on any diversified farm. Natural chicken birth rates typically happen too late and too infrequently in the season for the chicken population to become self-sustaining. Freerange chickens, which do not require supplemental feeding - could be a great part of a community local food strategy.  


The important conditions under the hen are temperature, humidity, ventilation, and turning. The eggs need to be turned for circulation, or else the fluids just sit there.
The important conditions under the hen are temperature, humidity, ventilation, and turning. The eggs need to be turned because the embryo will become stuck to one side of the egg otherwise.


*[http://www.ext.vt.edu/pubs/poultry/factsheets/8.html Incubating Eggs Factsheet on what is needed to hatch successfully]
*http://pubs.ext.vt.edu/2902/2902-1090/2902-1090.pdf
*[[Incubating Eggs Factsheet]]


=Care of Hatching Eggs=
=Research=


<blockquote>
*http://www.extension.umn.edu/distribution/livestocksystems/DI0631.html
Before setting eggs in an incubator, you must obtain or produce quality fertile eggs from a well-managed, healthy flock which are fed properly balanced diets.
*http://www.ogpbb.com/accessories/incubation-guide/hatching-a-chicken-egg.html - "''The small end of the egg should be lower than the large end of the egg when set in the incubator. An embryo orients during incubation so that the head develops toward the large end of the egg where the air cell is located. A chick's head can orient away from the air cell of the egg if the small end is higher than the large end during incubation. An embryo oriented in the wrong direction will not hatch.''"


  1. Keep the nest full of clean, dry litter. Collect the eggs early in the morning and frequently during the day to prevent excessive chilling or heating of the eggs.
==Natural hatching==
*http://www.agnet.org/library/pt/2003007/


  2. DO NOT wash eggs unless necessary. If it is necessary to wash eggs always use a damp cloth with water warmer than the egg. This causes the egg to sweat the dirt out of the pores. Never use water cooler than the egg. Also, do not soak the eggs in water. If the egg is allowed to soak in water for a period of time, the temperature difference can equalize and bacteria has a greater chance of entering through the pores.
==Resource Map==
*http://blog.opensourceecology.org/?p=553


      Be sure eggs are dry before storing. Never place damp or wet eggs in a styrofoam carton for storage.
==General Info==
*http://www.ext.vt.edu/pubs/poultry/factsheets/8.html
*http://www.associatedcontent.com/article/308949/how_to_hatch_your_own_chicks_from_eggs.html?cat=53


  3. Store the clean fertile eggs in an area which is kept at 55°- 60°F and 70-75% humidity. Never store eggs at temperatures about 75°F and at humidities lower than 40%. These conditions can decrease hatchability dramatically in a very short period of time.
==Links==
*http://www.bantychicken.com/cgi-bin/bantychickenwiki.pl?Hatching
*http://windward.org/notes/notes69/opalyn6906.htm


      Slant or turn the fertile eggs daily while they are being stored. Store the eggs small end down and slanted at 30-45 degrees. Putting a piece of 2" x 4" under one end of the carton or storage container and changing it to the other end daily works well.
==Other Designs==
*http://www.msstate.edu/dept/poultry/avianemb.htm
**http://www.msstate.edu/dept/poultry/faq-ans1.htm
*[http://www.mixph.com/2007/07/constructing-a-plywood-incubator.html?cp=1 Constructing a Plywood Incubator] - Pictures and BOM. No description. Has an apparently manual egg turner. No motor or timer. Has thermostat with simple wiring diagram.
*http://msucares.com/poultry/reproductions/poultry_make_incubator.html
*http://www.extension.umn.edu/distribution/livestocksystems/DI0631.html
*http://www.backyardchickens.com/LC-howto.html
*http://www.motherearthnews.com/Do-It-Yourself/1982-03-01/Build-Your-Own-Incubator.aspx


      Do not store eggs for more than 10-14 days. After 14 days of storage, hatchability begins to decline significantly.
===Sketchup 3D Warehouse===


  4. Just before setting the eggs, allow them to warm to room temperature (70-80°F) and remove any cracked eggs.  
*https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model.html?id=d8fc20c1680d46c239753ca9ea638d2d
</blockquote>
*https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model.html?id=afef4c80a98b9e518ec5ef93a548cffb
*https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model.html?id=ub290dcfb-6949-4a2f-9b68-ca2a11ffd505


=Incubation=
==Industry Standards==
*http://www.fredsfinefowl.com/incubatordemonstrations.html
*http://www.epinions.com/review/GQF_1502_Sportsman_Incubator_epi/content_421826039428
*http://www.epinions.com/pets/sec_~dyn_nav/submitted_form_~ultrafinder/ultrafinder_submitted_~+Go+/search_vertical_~all/pp_~2?search_string=incubator#dyn_nav
*http://sciencekit.com/automatic-incubator/p/IG0021724/
*http://www.google.com/products?q=AUTOMATIC+INCUBATOR&hl=en


<blockquote>
===Brinsea Octagon===
Four factors are of major importance in incubating eggs artificially: temperature, humidity, ventilation and turning. Of these factors, temperature is the most critical. However, humidity tends to be overlooked and causes many hatching problems. Extensive research has shown that the optimum incubator temperature is 100°F when relative humidity is 60 percent. Concentrations of oxygen should be above 20 percent, carbon dioxide should be below 0.5 percent, and air movement past the egg should be 12 cubic feet per minute.
*http://www.brinsea.com/customerservice/instructions.html


There are two types of incubators commonly used:
==Materials==
*foil backed rigid insulation board looks like what we want
*Celotex is a company that makes foil backed rigid insulation board in the UK
*http://building.dow.com/na/en/products/insulation/tuffr.htm TUFF-R


  1. Forced-air incubators which have a built in fan to circulate the air.
==Past Work==
  2. Still-air incubators which have no fans, so the air is allowed to stratify.
See [[Open Source Chicken Incubator]]
 
*'''Critique of past work''' - manual turning of eggs at least 3 times per day becomes a chore for an integrated human.
      The forced-air incubator should be set at 99-99.5°F and 60-65% relative humidity (83-88°F wet bulb). The advantage of the forced-air incubator is that it is easier to maintain humidity at a constant level because of air circulation.
 
      Still air incubators are smaller and air flow is harder to manage. Set still-air incubators at 100 to 101°F at egg height. This is important since the air stratifies in these incubators. There can be as much as a 5° difference in temperature from the top to the bottom of some of the still-air incubators. Humidity should be 60-65% (80-90° wet bulb) during incubation and 70-75% (92-97° wet bulb) at hatching time. It is very easy to overheat the eggs in still-air incubators and difficult to maintain proper humidity.
</blockquote>
 
=Temperature=
 
<blockquote>
During the warm-up period, the temperature should be adjusted to hold a constant 101°F for still air, 99°- 100°F for forced air. To obtain reliable readings, the bulb of the thermometer should be at the same height as the tops of the eggs and away from the source of heat. Using two thermometers is a good idea to ensure you are getting an accurate reading.
 
Incubator temperature should be maintained between 99° and 100°F. The acceptable range is 97° to 102°F. Mortality is seen if the temperature drops below 96°F or rises above 103°F for a number of hours. If the temperature stays at either extreme for several days, the eggs may not hatch. Overheating is more critical than underheating. Running the incubator at 105°F for 15 minutes will seriously affect the embryos, while running it at 95° for 3 or 4 hours will only slow the chick's metabolic rate.
 
An incubator should be operated in a location free from drafts and direct sunlight. An incubator should also be operated for several hours with water placed in a pan to stabilize its internal atmosphere before fertile eggs are set. Do not adjust the heat upward during the first 48 hours after eggs are set. This practice cooks many eggs. The eggs will take time to warm to incubator temperature and many times in small incubators the incubator temperature will drop below 98°F for the first 6-8 hours or until the egg warms to 99°-100°F.
</blockquote>
 
 
=Humidity=
 
<blockquote>
The relative humidity of the air within an incubator should be about 60 percent. During the last 3 days (the hatching period) the relative humidity should be nearer 65-70 percent. (Too much moisture in the incubator prevents normal evaporation and results in a decreased hatch, but excessive moisture is seldom a problem in small incubators.) Too little moisture results in excessive evaporation, causing chicks to stick to the shell, remain in the pipped shells, and sometimes hatch crippled.
 
The relative humidity in the incubator can also be varied by changing the size of the water pan or by putting a sponge in the pan to increase the evaporative surface. The pan should be checked regularly while the incubator is in use to be sure that there is always an adequate amount of water. Adding additional water pans to small still-air incubators is also helpful to increase humidity.
 
During the hatching period, the humidity in the incubator may be increased by using an atomizer to spray a small amount of water into the ventilating holes. (This is especially helpful when duck or goose eggs are hatching.)
 
Whenever you add water to an incubator, it should be about the same temperature as the incubator so you do not stress the eggs or the incubator. A good test is to add water just warm to the touch.
 
Using a wet-bulb thermometer is also a good way for determining relative humidity. The wet-bulb thermometer measures the evaporative cooling effect. If the wet and dry bulb read the same temperature, you would have 100 percent humidity. The greater the evaporation taking place, the lower the temperature reading on the wet-bulb thermometer and the larger the spread will be between the wet- and dry-bulb readings.
 
To make a wet-bulb thermometer, just add a cotton wick to the end of a thermometer. Then place the tail of the wick in water. The cotton then absorbs the water. As the water evaporates from the cotton it causes a cooling effect on the thermometer.
 
The table below (Relative Humidity) will enable you to calculate relative humidity using readings from a wet- bulb thermometer and the incubator thermometer.
 
Incubator Temperature Wet Bulb Readings
100°F
101°F
102°F
81.3
82.2
83.0
83.3
84.2
85.0
85.3
86.2
87.0
87.3
88.2
89.0
89.0
90.0
91.0
90.7
91.7
92.7
Percent Relative
Humidity 45% 50% 55% 60% 65% 70%
(From Egg to Chick, Northeast State Cooperative Extension Service)
</blockquote>
 
=Ventilation=
 
<blockquote>
The best hatching results are obtained with normal atmospheric air, which usually contains 20-21 percent oxygen. It is difficult to provide too much oxygen, but a deficiency is possible. Make sure that the ventilation holes are adjusted to allow a normal exchange of air.
 
This is critical on home-made incubators. It is possible to suffocate the eggs and chicks in an air-tight container. However, excessive ventilation removes humidity and makes it difficult to heat incubators properly.
</blockquote>
 
=Turning=
 
<blockquote>
Eggs set on their sides must be rotated 1/2 turn at least 3 times daily. Eggs set with the air cell end up should be tilted in the opposite direction 3 times daily. This keeps the embryo centered in the egg and prevents it from sticking to the shell membrane. If hand turning, to insure proper turning, mark each side of the egg with a pencil. Put an "x" on one side and an "o" on the opposite side.
 
Stop turning the eggs for the last three (3) days of the incubation cycle (at 18 days for chickens, 25 days for waterfowl, etc.) and do not open the incubator until the hatch is completed to insure that a desirable hatching humidity is maintained.
</blockquote>


=Hatch Time=


<blockquote>
==Research Summary==
Do not help the chicks from the shell at hatching time. If it doesn't hatch, there is usually a good reason. Also, prematurely helping the chick hatch could cripple or infect the chick. Humidity is critical at hatching time. Don't allow your curiosity to damage your hatch.
*There is a lack of adequate design. University references have no automatic incubator designs. Mother Earth News is the only one with automatic turning, and the mechanism there is unnecessarily complex.
*Infuriated with such nonsense, Marcin proposes HexaHatch.


As soon as the chicks are dry and fluffy or 6 to 12 hours after hatching, remove the chicks from the incubator. It is good practice to remove all the chicks at once and destroy any late hatching eggs. Hatching time can be hereditary and you can control the uniformity of hatching by culling late hatchers. If you keep every chick which hatches late, in a few years each hatch could last 4 days or longer.
=Design=
</blockquote>




==Humidity and Temperature==
*Humidity - $6 analog hygrometer at Amazon -[http://www.amazon.com/CigarsEtc-Analog-Hygrometer/dp/B0007VWEQA/ref=pd_bbs_sr_2?ie=UTF8&s=hpc&qid=1236570651&sr=8-2 1]
*Temperature - two thermometers
*Thermostat and lightbulb for temperature control


=Sanitation of Incubator and Equipment=


=Design Proposals=


<blockquote>
==Cabinet==
No matter what type of incubation you use, it is important that you thoroughly clean and disinfect the incubator before and after you use it. It is just as important that the incubation room and egg storage area are kept equally clean. The lack of sanitation will decrease hatchability.


Immediately after each hatch, thoroughly clean and disinfect all hatching trays, water pans and the floor of the hatcher. Scrape off all egg shells and adhering dirt. Wipe clean surfaces thoroughly with a cloth dampened in quaternary ammonium, chlorox or other disinfectant solution.
===3 Shelf Tilt===
</blockquote>


Design with three shelves for trays with 36 eggs.


=Incubation Period=
[[File:Ose-eggincubator-20160409-1.skp]]


One of the miracles of nature is the transformation of the egg into the chick. In a brief three weeks of incubation, a fully developed chick grows from a single cell and emerges from a seemingly lifeless egg.
[[OSE Egg Incubator 2016]]


Incubation Periods (species and days required to hatch)
=Design 1 - HexaHatch Revolution=
Chicken (21)
Ducks (28)


Hexahatch is a simple, compact, low cost, scalable design incubator with automatic turning via a [http://surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2009030918341572&item=5-1583&catname=electric $10 gear motor].
[[Image:hexahatchgearmotor.jpg|thumb]]
[[Image:hexahatch.jpg|thumb]]
==Design Rationale==
*Uses simple on-off wall timer, set for 3 turning sessions per day, 15 minutes long
*Gear motor plugs in directly to timer
*Gear motor is coupled directly to turning shaft
*Symmetry is utilized for low turning torque requirement
*3" PVC tube (schedule 20) is used for egg holding, arranged in hexagonal pattern
*Inner PVC tube holds turning axle
*Bearings hold axle at ends
*48 egg capacity
*Thermostat operates a 15W light bulb for heat
*2" styrofoam insulation is used around box
*OSB is used as a case
*Small fan removes temperature stratification along vertical direction
*Tub of water is found at bottom for humidity
*Incubator opens from the end
*Small air hole is found towards bottom
*Approximate 1x1.5x2 foot box
*Max 60 egg capacity


=General Info=
==Design==
http://www.associatedcontent.com/article/308949/how_to_hatch_your_own_chicks_from_eggs.html?cat=53
[[file:hexahatch_design_1.blend]]
[[image:hexahatchdesign1.jpg|thumb]]
[[image:hexahatch_design_1_3d.jpg|thumb]]


==Bill of Materials==
*Wall timer, $8
*[http://surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2009030918341572&item=5-1583&catname=electricGear Motor with 1/4" shaft], $10
*[http://surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2009040314172137&item=1-2693&catname=powerTrans 1/4" coupler $4]
*1/4" threaded rod $3
*1/4" nuts, x 6
*16" of 4", schedule 20 PVC pipe, x 6
*18" of 4", schedule 20 PVC pipe
**$8
*4" PVC caps, x 2 $5
*Thermostat, 90-130F range, $10
*Light socket and bulb, $5
*Spare power cords
*2 metal bushings, $2
*fan
*2x4" lumber, 7" long for light fixture, 13" for egg holder posts, 20" to support posts.


=Designs=
*2" insulation, 14 square feet, $7
*http://www.msstate.edu/dept/poultry/avianemb.htm
**20x15" x 2 for front/back
**http://www.msstate.edu/dept/poultry/faq-ans1.htm
**20x27" x 2 for sides
*http://www.mixph.com/2007/07/constructing-a-plywood-incubator.html?cp=1
**23x15" x 2 for top/bottom
*http://msucares.com/poultry/reproductions/poultry_make_incubator.html
*http://www.extension.umn.edu/distribution/livestocksystems/DI0631.html
*http://www.backyardchickens.com/LC-howto.html
*http://www.motherearthnews.com/Do-It-Yourself/1982-03-01/Build-Your-Own-Incubator.aspx


*OSB shell, $3
**20x27", x 4 for top/bottom/sides
**20x21", x 2 for front/back
***3000 square inches out of 8x4' 4608 sq/in OSB sheet


=Links=
Total: about $70
*http://www.bantychicken.com/cgi-bin/bantychickenwiki.pl?Hatching
*http://www.ext.vt.edu/pubs/poultry/factsheets/8.html
 
 
=Past Work=
See [[Open Source Chicken Incubator]]


==Implementation==
[[image:hexahatch_construction_cut_drill_pipes.jpg|thumb]]
[[image:hexahatch_construction_egg_holders_assembled.jpg|thumb]]
[[image:Hexahatch_construction_cut_pipes.jpg|thumb]]


[[Category:OSA]]
#Assemble egg holders
##[[File:Hexahatch_construction_cut_pipes.jpg|Cut plastic pipe sections.]] [http://openfarmtech.org/images/thumb/d/da/Safety_goggles.JPG/120px-Safety_goggles.JPG Wear safety goggles when cutting].
##Cut notches for stoppers. Drill 1/4" holes in middle of pipe caps.
##Attach 16" pipes to 18" pipe with bolts.
##Attach pipe caps to 18" pipe.
##Put threaded rod through pipe cap holes, put nuts on both ends loosely. Leave one end sticking out further.
##Cut out the insulation and OSB pieces.
##Assemble the bottom and back insulation and OSB. Pre-drill holes and attach with screws.
##Drill about 1" hole in the OSB and insulation for the motor on the back about 11-1/2" from the bottom and 10" from the sides.
##Wire and attach the light fixture to the 2x4.
##Attach the light fixture 2x4 post to the OSB.
#Attach the egg holders.
##Attach the bushings to the 2x4"s.
##Drill holes in the 13" long 2x4"s and metal bushings. The hole for the 1/4" threaded rod should be about 2-1/4" from the top.
##Attach the thermostat to the front 2x4".
##Put the long end of the egg holder shaft through the rear 2x4" bushing.
##Attach the coupler to the threaded rod end.
##Attach the coupler to the motor.
##Attach the motor to the back OSB.
##Attach the rear 2x4 post to the OSB.
##Adjust the nuts on the threaded rod to hold the pipe caps tightly, so that the egg holders turn with the rod.
##Put the front 2x4 post with the threaded rod through the bushing and attach the front 2x4 to the OSB. The motor should be able to turn the egg holders now.
##Wire the light to connect to the thermostat.
#Assemble the box.
##Assemble the rest of the insulation box.
##Assemble the OSB around the insulation. Attach with screws. Leave one end open.
##Drill holes in the side for the air intake and wires, and in the top for the fan.
##Attach the fan.

Latest revision as of 21:55, 11 April 2016

Main > Food and Agriculture > Farm equipment

In order to provide eggs and chickens to Factor e Farm Dream Team 30, we will need to raise our chicken population from 24 to about 300 chickens in 2009. For this, we need to hatch the chickens in an incubator, as natural brooding does not do the trick. We are getting 8 eggs per day even now, and this should increase to about 20. At this rate, it would take us one month of hatching to increase our flock to the needed level. We should aim for an incubator with 48 egg capacity, and do about 5 hatching runs.

Hexahatch.jpg
Hexahatch design 1 3d.jpg

Design Rationale

Naturally, hens take care of the eggs by turning them often and sitting on them to maintain the necessary conditions for hatching. Most types of chickens have been bred for high egg production though, which means they have been bred to not "brood" as much, to not sit on eggs, because when they are brooding they won't lay any more eggs. Since most hens only brood under certain conditions then most of their eggs will never be warmed and protected until they hatch, and so an incubator is needed to hatch more eggs.

Some types of chickens are more broody, since some breeds have been bred for looks and not egg production they will brood on any eggs they are given. There are hundreds of different breeds in the bantam size, and any that have a large fowl counterpart tend to have the same traits. So there are breeds of bantams that are good broodies, and breeds that are not. There are also many breeds of large fowl that make excellent broodies. So a natural route for hatching chickens is to have an egg producing hen to lay eggs and a broodie hen to brood them.

An incubator keeps a large number of fertilized eggs safe and warm under ideal conditions until they hatch, in place of brooding hens.

Chickens may be propagated readily from fertile eggs - so freerange chickens can be maintained in a healthy population even in presence of heavy losses to predators. A simple incubator should be available on any diversified farm. Natural chicken birth rates typically happen too late and too infrequently in the season for the chicken population to become self-sustaining. Freerange chickens, which do not require supplemental feeding - could be a great part of a community local food strategy.

The important conditions under the hen are temperature, humidity, ventilation, and turning. The eggs need to be turned because the embryo will become stuck to one side of the egg otherwise.

Research

Natural hatching

Resource Map

General Info

Links

Other Designs

Sketchup 3D Warehouse

Industry Standards

Brinsea Octagon

Materials

Past Work

See Open Source Chicken Incubator

  • Critique of past work - manual turning of eggs at least 3 times per day becomes a chore for an integrated human.


Research Summary

  • There is a lack of adequate design. University references have no automatic incubator designs. Mother Earth News is the only one with automatic turning, and the mechanism there is unnecessarily complex.
  • Infuriated with such nonsense, Marcin proposes HexaHatch.

Design

Humidity and Temperature

  • Humidity - $6 analog hygrometer at Amazon -1
  • Temperature - two thermometers
  • Thermostat and lightbulb for temperature control


Design Proposals

Cabinet

3 Shelf Tilt

Design with three shelves for trays with 36 eggs.

File:Ose-eggincubator-20160409-1.skp

OSE Egg Incubator 2016

Design 1 - HexaHatch Revolution

Hexahatch is a simple, compact, low cost, scalable design incubator with automatic turning via a $10 gear motor.

Hexahatchgearmotor.jpg
Hexahatch.jpg

Design Rationale

  • Uses simple on-off wall timer, set for 3 turning sessions per day, 15 minutes long
  • Gear motor plugs in directly to timer
  • Gear motor is coupled directly to turning shaft
  • Symmetry is utilized for low turning torque requirement
  • 3" PVC tube (schedule 20) is used for egg holding, arranged in hexagonal pattern
  • Inner PVC tube holds turning axle
  • Bearings hold axle at ends
  • 48 egg capacity
  • Thermostat operates a 15W light bulb for heat
  • 2" styrofoam insulation is used around box
  • OSB is used as a case
  • Small fan removes temperature stratification along vertical direction
  • Tub of water is found at bottom for humidity
  • Incubator opens from the end
  • Small air hole is found towards bottom
  • Approximate 1x1.5x2 foot box
  • Max 60 egg capacity

Design

File:Hexahatch design 1.blend

Hexahatchdesign1.jpg
Hexahatch design 1 3d.jpg

Bill of Materials

  • Wall timer, $8
  • Motor with 1/4" shaft, $10
  • 1/4" coupler $4
  • 1/4" threaded rod $3
  • 1/4" nuts, x 6
  • 16" of 4", schedule 20 PVC pipe, x 6
  • 18" of 4", schedule 20 PVC pipe
    • $8
  • 4" PVC caps, x 2 $5
  • Thermostat, 90-130F range, $10
  • Light socket and bulb, $5
  • Spare power cords
  • 2 metal bushings, $2
  • fan
  • 2x4" lumber, 7" long for light fixture, 13" for egg holder posts, 20" to support posts.
  • 2" insulation, 14 square feet, $7
    • 20x15" x 2 for front/back
    • 20x27" x 2 for sides
    • 23x15" x 2 for top/bottom
  • OSB shell, $3
    • 20x27", x 4 for top/bottom/sides
    • 20x21", x 2 for front/back
      • 3000 square inches out of 8x4' 4608 sq/in OSB sheet

Total: about $70

Implementation

Hexahatch construction cut drill pipes.jpg
Hexahatch construction egg holders assembled.jpg
Hexahatch construction cut pipes.jpg
  1. Assemble egg holders
    1. Cut plastic pipe sections. Wear safety goggles when cutting.
    2. Cut notches for stoppers. Drill 1/4" holes in middle of pipe caps.
    3. Attach 16" pipes to 18" pipe with bolts.
    4. Attach pipe caps to 18" pipe.
    5. Put threaded rod through pipe cap holes, put nuts on both ends loosely. Leave one end sticking out further.
    6. Cut out the insulation and OSB pieces.
    7. Assemble the bottom and back insulation and OSB. Pre-drill holes and attach with screws.
    8. Drill about 1" hole in the OSB and insulation for the motor on the back about 11-1/2" from the bottom and 10" from the sides.
    9. Wire and attach the light fixture to the 2x4.
    10. Attach the light fixture 2x4 post to the OSB.
  2. Attach the egg holders.
    1. Attach the bushings to the 2x4"s.
    2. Drill holes in the 13" long 2x4"s and metal bushings. The hole for the 1/4" threaded rod should be about 2-1/4" from the top.
    3. Attach the thermostat to the front 2x4".
    4. Put the long end of the egg holder shaft through the rear 2x4" bushing.
    5. Attach the coupler to the threaded rod end.
    6. Attach the coupler to the motor.
    7. Attach the motor to the back OSB.
    8. Attach the rear 2x4 post to the OSB.
    9. Adjust the nuts on the threaded rod to hold the pipe caps tightly, so that the egg holders turn with the rod.
    10. Put the front 2x4 post with the threaded rod through the bushing and attach the front 2x4 to the OSB. The motor should be able to turn the egg holders now.
    11. Wire the light to connect to the thermostat.
  3. Assemble the box.
    1. Assemble the rest of the insulation box.
    2. Assemble the OSB around the insulation. Attach with screws. Leave one end open.
    3. Drill holes in the side for the air intake and wires, and in the top for the fan.
    4. Attach the fan.
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