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Overview

See Power_Cube_Fabrication_Procedure for initial steps.

Work in progress by Tom Griffing, August 13, 2011: File:Powercube.odt

Power Cube

Port from ODT

Power Cube Version 4

Contents Table of Contents Power Cube 1 Contents 2 Introduction 3 Bill Of Materials 4 Discrete parts 4 Steel 5 Subassembly Fabrication 6 Assembly 8 User Guide 15

Introduction

The Power Cube is an universal, self-contained power unit that consists of an engine coupled to a hydraulic pump for providing power in the form of hydraulic fluid at high pressure. It connects via quick couplers and quick-connect hydraulic hoses to devices such as:

 LifeTrac ◦ <image>  Microtrac ◦ <image>  Bulldozer ◦ <image>  Open Source Car (OSCar) ◦ <image>

This document provides information for building and using a Power Cube as part of the Open Source Ecology (OSE) project.

Bill Of Materials

Edit spreadsheet

Subassembly Fabrication

Many of the items listed in the Bill Of Materials require preparation before use in assembly of the Power Cube. This includes drilling and cutting steel up to 3/8” in thickness. These are the parts for assembling a Power Cube.

1. Engine mounts
a) ¼” x 8” x 12” Plate
b) ¼” x 8” x 9” Plate
<image>
c) ¼” x 2” x 2” x 8” Angle
d) ¼” x 2” x 2” x 29” Angle
<image>
2. Hydraulic pump mount
a) ¼” x 8” x 8” Plate
<image>
3. Quick attach mounts
a) [2] 3/8” x 4” x 27” Plates
<image>
4. Fuel tank
a) [2] ¼” x 4” x 8” Plates
<image>
b) ¼” x 2” x 24” Plate
<image>
c) 4” x 8” x 14 ½” Tube
<image>
8 5. Oil Cooler Mount
a) [2] ¼” x 2” x 24” Plates
b) [2] ¼” x 2” x 22” Plates
c) [2] ¼” x 2” x 1” Plates
<image>
6. Key Switches and Choke
a) [3] 1/8” x 2” x 2” x 2” Angle
<image>
7. Electrical cables
Note: The connectors can be purchased from an auto parts store – be aware that they usually require a crimper to attach to the cables. Alternatively, 3/8” copper tubing can be used in 1 ½” long pieces instead. Strip 1 ½” insulation from the cable, fully insert fully into 1 ½” copper tube, flatten end with a hammer and drill hole.
a) [2] 11” 1 gauge
b) 8 ½” 1 gauge

8. Battery Mount
a) [2] ¼” x 2” x 2” x 4 3/4” Angle
b) [2] ¼” x 2” x 5/8” Plate
<image>
9. Hydraulic reservoir
a) [2] ¼” x 6” x 12”
b) 6” x 12” x 27 ½” Tube
c) 2” x 2 ¼” x 1/8” Tube
<image>

Assembly

Power Cube assembly requires all the parts listed in the Bill Of Materials to be available and prepared as detailed in the “Fabrication” section (above). Assembly requires a welder (electric or torch) capable of welding metal 3/8” thick.

Optional: Jig for frame assembly

The welding “jig” in the image below is helpful to insure square angles while assembling the Power Cube. Materials List ¼” x 2” x 2” Angle Iron: 14' ½" Rebar: 7' 2”

Cut List Type Length Dimensions Quantity Color

Angle 22" ¼” x 2 x 2" 2 (red)
Angle 26" ¼” x 2” x 2” 2 (yellow)
Angle 29" ¼” x 2" x 2 2 (green)
Rebar 30.5" ½" 1
Rebar 27" ½" 2

Jig Assembly (optional)

The jig is an optional piece of fabrication equipment that can be very useful to have should you be creating several power cubes concurrently. The materials for the cube are assembled in the jig in half sections and tacked and welded in place.

Materials List

Total Length 14' Angle (2"x1/4") 7'2" Rebar (1/2")

Cut List

Type	Length	Dimensions	Quantity	Color
Angle	22"	(2"x1/4")	2	(red)
Angle	26"	(2"x1/4")	2	(yellow)
Angle	29"	(2"x1/4")	2	(green)
Rebar	30.5"	(1/2")	1
Rebar	27"	(1/2")	2

Assembly of the Jig is fairly straight forward. Tack and weld the pieces in place.

Be sure to note the overlapping order and the notch made at the bottom of the 1'10 1/4" piece (red). Torch holes in the corners below the frame as seen above. This allows room for the welding torch to get to the PowerCube while welding.

Also note that the corners are offset 3/4" (1/2" measured on the interior), to give room for the cube to sit snugly in the frame (and a convenient gap for welding the corners.)

Tack weld the two shorter rebar sections at roughly a 45 degree angle on the sides. Add a long rebar section to span the gap. Precision is not as important with these, they are more there for stability.

With any luck, you'll have your jig, ready to crank out Power Cubes with!

Jig Fully Assembled.

Frame

a) Top / Bottom Rectangles

Position two ¼” x 2” x 2” x 29” pieces angle iron on top of two 27” angle pieces as shown below. Check that all joints are square, then tack and weld joints.

b) With one welded rectangle on the bottom, position the 24” pieces outside corner joints as shown below. Check that the angles are square, then tack and weld.

c) Position the second rectangle as shown below, then tack and weld. Inspect all corners to verify secure welds.

3. Gas tank

All welds assembling the tank must be quality welds, as they must not leak. Be careful not to “over weld” the tank to the mount.

a) Clean the inside of the ¼” x 4” x 8” tube and the two ¼” x 4” x 8” plates – anything left on these surfaces will end up in the gasoline and could clog the engine when started. Tack and weld the plates on each end of the tube, taking care to orient the top plate with the filler hole as shown in the diagram below.
<image>
b) Weld the ¾” tank flange to the smaller hole.
<image>
c) Perform a “soap bubble” test on the tank. Securely cover the larger hole (use something like strong tape), pressurize the tank using the smaller hole and cover the tank surface with soapy water. Look closely for new bubbles, mark any leaks and re-weld securely. Repeat soap bubble test if re-welded.
d) Tack and weld the gas tank mount (¼” x 2” x 24” plate) to the frame.
e) Tack and weld the gas tank to the gas tank mount as shown below.

4. Hydraulic tank