D3D v18.07
Hint: Same as D3D v18.06 but with Prusa i3 MK2 extruder and 8 mm distance sensor
Hint: Needs update on build pictures from Google Photos
Contents
Development Template
Code Notes
- Turned on EEPROM in latest version so that we can save the Z offset settings between runs, as Z offset can drift slowly. This keeps the updated version of offset in place.
CAD
- Updated file with sensor holder moved down - https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/File:Extruder_modification.fcstd
BOM
- Same as D3D_v18.06_BOM - main
- Extruder BOM - D3D_Extruder#BOM - v18.07 - proven.
Build
Extruder Build
Cut List
Wires
- 8" for positive power to heat bed MOSFET, 9" for negative
Shakedown Checklist
Prior to Turn-On
- Do not plug the 3D printer into a wall outlet yet. Verify power plug to power supply is Line, Neutral, Ground - in that order. The ground is the green wire. Either polarity of the L and N wires will work, but the correct convention is white wire for Line and black wire for Neutral.
- Plug in RAMPS green plug to - + - + in that order from the left of green plug looking at the control panel.
- Verify that the LCD is plugged in correctly - plug 1 and 2 as labeled
- Plug in USB cable to computer
- When USB cable is plugged in, LCD lights up saying OSE D3D Printer ready. This assumes the firmware is already on the controller board.
- Check the thermistor on the extruder. Plugging the white thermistor wire into the control board should produce the temperature reading on the LCD. Unplugged shows zero temperature, and shorted shows max temperature. Temperature should be around room temperature for both the extruder and the heated bed, in C.
- Check that all the adjustment screws on the RAMPS board are facing down, otherwise turning power on can burn them out.
- Plug in
- Verify axis motion
- Verify all printing parameters - G_Codes#Status_Codes
- Make sure print profile (.ini file) is correct)
Data Collection
Jul 26, 2018
Proposed Solution for Smooth Motion with Soft Rods
- Oil-filled bushings. See 8 mm Rods.
- Lubrication - for heat and speed
- Speed optimization - set max speed for fast travel so when going above 400%, we don't exceed a fast value such as 200mm/sec.
- Set travel speed to no more than print speed - to optimize for fast printing where travel is only a small part of a print - and we care more about rod longevity based on lifetime design goals.
Jul 24, 2018
- Bottom layer speed increased from 20 to 40
- Top/bottom speed increased from 15 to 25
- Amazing quality results at 125%, going up
- Min and max speed of fan set to 100
- Set up SD card support as at RepRap Discount Smart Controller
- After running at 400%, 8 mm 12L14 ultra machinable rods are getting pitted. The left connector for stepper motors burned out - I suspect it was the added resistance of moving the motors that drew extra current for a meltdown. Then about 10 minutes into the print, the print would stop - motors stalling slowly to a dead stop. Then the temperature error set once motors stopped moving. Essentially, power to the board stopped when the plug melted.
Future Work
- Live height adjustment in Marlin - tune first layer until exactness after bed level correction
