D3D Ohio v18.02
- 1 Build
- 2 Basics
- 3 CAD
- 4 BOM
- 5 Video
- 6 Packing
- 7 Development
- 8 Development Log
- 8.1 3/10/2019
- 8.2 4/5/2019
- 8.3 2/26/2019
- 8.4 10/31/2018
- 8.5 9/8/2018 - 9/29/2018
- 8.6 9/8/2018
- 8.7 8/4/2018
- 8.8 7/17/2018 to 7/29/2018
- 8.9 6/01/2018 to 7/16/2018
- 8.10 5/27/2018 to 6/01/2018
- 8.11 5/27/2018
- 8.12 5/20/2018
- 9 See Also
- 10 Useful Links
New build link: https://docs.google.com/presentation/d/1pHYTWzezWWFUROGH39EBYXs0np-FJfRLAAreQBTMF2g/edit?usp=sharing
[**********NOTE**************] the below slide will be removed when the above link is filled with data.
Extruder teardown and build
D3D extruder build
Photos of build: https://photos.app.goo.gl/P3TpbyrDfRtszzoX6
Issues and notes:
- Needed to file down 3d printed rod for bearing idler.
- drilled out several areas.
Tools found to be helpful:
- Picks(dental size)
- drill and bit to finish holes.
- punch, hammer and vice to lightly set in square nuts (my holes were a bit small)
- hobby knife set for finishing holes. a plain razor blade is also good. WEAR PROTECTIVE GLOVES AND ALWAYS CUT AWAY FROM SELF
-ADD HERE 1. List of steps, and parts needed per step. 2. Starting list of required, and helpful tools 3. with pictures, grab shots of caliper measurements often and whenever appropriate.
- A variation of the D3D 3D Plastic FDM Printer that has a 12 inch print bed, Made with a PVC frame
Most recent Render: http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/File:D3D_OHIO_18.01_V0.3_WIP.fcstd
- Sensor - 8 mm sensing - 18 mm diameter - 
Users Prusa I3 Extuder module Prusa I3 MK2 here. the replication of this module used in the D3D ohio v18.02 is here: https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/D3D_Extruder_v1807 https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/D3D_Extruder
The intention of this section is to show the most up-to-date CAD module visually as it is developed. Versus the development log, this will attempt to show the "best" work or "Stable" versions
V1.0.0 Latest version uploaded.
-Uses short idler. 500mm steel rods. allows for an extra inch on x and y axis.
V0.3 DONE - This will be a rendering with 1" PVC tube and corners, 12" bed and a http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/File:Prusa_i3_mk2_extruder_adapted.fcstd extruder changed for what is currently present in V0.2
This file has been uploaded as is, currently we just have some part movement and a 12" bed
12" bed. check calcs for measurements. File:D3D OHIO 18.01 V0.3 WIP.fcstd
[WIP NEEDS DONE}
-Inital startup -finishing wiring
manual link: https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/3D_Printer_Manual
continuing firmware checkout. I want to identify how the 3RD extruder is used as the 2nd Y axis, and where the pins ECT are for the auto leveling and start / stopping the heated bed relay. Made the firmware for this machine a repo. likely this will be a tradition for any new machine. https://github.com/takacsjd/D3D_OH_V18092_FIRMWARE/tree/6a337459e5666f0cdebbab2521d0190e26b20dab
Random ideas and thoughts
- Why not always print at a 90 or slightly less steep angle? would't stuff still stick? would it really even sag? no worries about needed two Y steppers in this case and way easy to knock off prints.
Finding the board pins file based on board definition
Configuration.h ln 140:BOARD_RAMPS_14_EFB)
which in boards.h sets to a value of 43
#define BOARD_RAMPS_14_EFB 43 // RAMPS 1.4 (Power outputs: Hotend, Fan, Bed)
so then i think I now need pins.h lol...
#elif MB(RAMPS_14_EEB) ln64 #define IS_RAMPS_EEB #include "pins_RAMPS.h"
SO FINALLY our pins file is pins_RAMPS.h
//define digital pin 4 for the filament runout sensor. Use the RAMPS 1.4 digital input 4 on the servos connector #define FIL_RUNOUT_PIN 4
2nd Y axis
Configuration_adv.h starting on line 258
// Dual Y Steppers // Uncomment this option to drive two Y axis motors. // The next unused E driver will be assigned to the second Y stepper. #define Y_DUAL_STEPPER_DRIVERS #if ENABLED(Y_DUAL_STEPPER_DRIVERS) // Set true if the two Y motors need to rotate in opposite directions #define INVERT_Y2_VS_Y_DIR true #endif
Heater relay pins
Auto level sensor input pin
// // Limit Switches // #define X_MIN_PIN 3 #ifndef X_MAX_PIN #define X_MAX_PIN 2 #endif #define Y_MIN_PIN 14 #define Y_MAX_PIN 15 #define Z_MIN_PIN 18 #define Z_MAX_PIN 19
// // Z Probe (when not Z_MIN_PIN) // #ifndef Z_MIN_PROBE_PIN #define Z_MIN_PROBE_PIN 32 #endif
Editing firmware. here, I'll capture where changes are within files (they are hard to navigate) This should also help others who have to reconfig marlin. I think it is a GREAT and critical practice for these files to be read in entirety and understood though. good comments in there.
So, in marlin I set these max limits. 304.8 reflects this printers true 12" travel distance from home (pressing the endstop switches)
// Travel limits after homing (units are in mm)
- define X_MIN_POS 0 //odd, I guess they have it as an option that the printer could move a negative distance after homing or somthing?
- define Y_MIN_POS 0
- define Z_MIN_POS 0
- define Y_MAX_POS 304 SORRY! 304-This is an INT datatype... cant put the exact 304.8 >_< so... lol... ill have a bit less that
- define X_MAX_POS 304
- define Z_MAX_POS 304
//=========================================================================== //============================ Auto Bed Leveling ============================ //=========================================================================== This is the title to search for... the Arduino IDE does not have line numbers? I used #Define auto_Bed_leveling linear
which wants front back left and right bed positions... // Set the boundaries for probing (where the probe can reach).
- define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 20 //changed from 20 in Marlin v18.07 to 40
- define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 160 //changed from 140 in Marlin v18.07
- define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 40 //changed from 20 in Marlin v18.07 to 40
- define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION 150
No clue what UNITS this is... mm? maybe will need to set each to 304mm ==12" ??
We will see once I test movement - I think I will have to fix somthing here.
From Sara's manual @https://docs.google.com/presentation/d/1Jng33ox5_ZXnTE244ZYxwuZSTqdk4DktIJxZbDOjls8/edit#slide=id.g42f7455050_1_0 If you want to make changes in Marlin - generally you will only modify Marlin through two files: configuration.h Configure Marlin for your specific 3D Printer design Set probing pattern / probing area Just read it. Has good comments. configuration_adv.h Advanced configuration specific to your 3D Printer design In our case, the second extruder motor was converted to Y-Right axis Baby stepping activated to enable real-time first layer adjustment You can additionally override certain settings defined by Marlin in the start/end GCODE in Cura. See configuration.h file for: steps/motor Activate lcd screen Set probing pattern Sets grid points for varying bed sizes
Currently using grid that’s 2x2 for 8in bed For big bed: change from 200inches to 1000inches Bed size: limits where it can travel OSE Cura: Expert Settings vs. “Quick Print” Settings .ini is where you change the temperature, nozzle size, and all printing parameters Set bed size in Cura in Machine Settings LCD Screen Z-offset Go to Control-> Motion -> Z Probe offset to change the z offset You can modify the Z offset on the fly with Tune -> Z Babystepping Sample motion: you can move x y and z axes Prepare, auto-homing, moving axes Disable Steppers Lets you move motors around M85 through he CURA command line does the same thing EEPROM The memory on the Arduino You can save and load settings to EEPROM via the LCD screen
-more cable assyms for main body. -wire for Y Axis are merged together, as only one plug on the control board.
tested x, y and z axis by using LCD controller, can move all axis by using the prepare-->Move axis feature.
looking to wire the rest of the endstops, leveling sensor, heated bed thermistor heating element and fans.
referencing this for leveling sensor setup. https://www.instructables.com/id/Enable-Auto-Leveling-for-your-3D-Printer-Marlin-Fi/
9/8/2018 - 9/29/2018
9/8 to 9/29 All axis mounted to printer.
9/29 Making cable assymblies for motors. I have 217k 40281 motors by Minebea motor company. the connectors to the motors are not terminated. the motors ordered have 6 wires. blue, orange, blue, blue, orange, blue. noting that on the stepper driver, we have 4 contact points... 1a 1b 2a 2b
So, making my cable assyms I'll have to check a data sheet.
https://www.eminebea.com/en/product/rotary/steppingmotor/hybrid/standard/17pm-k.shtml is the wiring diagram. looks like 17PM-k402-P4V is a better identifier to look this guy up. Always try all numbers when looking for data sheets! PHASE A Abar COM B Bbar COM PIN NO. 4 5 6 3 2 1
Refrencing the CAD picture on the DS (Data Sheet) Pins are identified with the shaft pointing towards you, right to left 6 5 4 3 2 1
I'm uncertain with these unipolar motors if I'm going to have to accomidate the common pin...
so, the orange wires are each coil's other side.
D3D drilling rig for 1" PVC. File here: printing this today to use tommrow? [File:1Inch PVC D3D HoleJig2013.stl]
-worked on drilling and mountings for D3D PVC. testing cuts and cutting methods with .5" scrap them moving to 1" pipes. https://photos.app.goo.gl/Km166hmZpXR9EKHQ9
-updated calcs with screw sizes found and other details. https://photos.app.goo.gl/PjMYwAJp2ibobuVW6
7/17/2018 to 7/29/2018
- All parts for D3D extruder have been ordered and arrived.
- Recieved a Prusa I3 that WORKS and can now PRINT.
- took printer to a company hackathon and demonstrated the Universal axis. Measured and ordered screws that will work for mounting the axis to .5" and 1" PVC pipes
6/01/2018 to 7/16/2018
Attempted to get mark 8 extruder functional this failed. during this time, ordered extuder parts from Steven (OSE).
The arrived parts did not fit my specific J-head hot end.
Was refered to this BOM https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1WNRJfb56ilHlIcdcz5cS92sy0QnUK5MiNVzNW1Jf7Lc/edit#gid=0
and this part https://www.ebay.com/itm/DUAL-E3D-V6-J-head-Direct-Hotend-Kit-1-75-12V-All-Metal-Throats-Hot-End-USA-/292208050774?hash=item4408f50256:g:MkEAAOSwKJRZicAS which provided a secure fit once purchased.
Currently waiting on family fianicial situation to improve with a recent layoff, then Will grab the rest of the componets needed (MISC screws and other parts) may also get a ali-express order of the parts as they are affordable, but take longer to get here.
5/27/2018 to 6/01/2018
Hiatus due to day job - commission a sewer lift station
- Finish belt routing
- more electronics work
- Axis mounting on frame
- Research on how rods are used to hold up the z axis?
Summary: Routed the tension belts for uAxis's... started setting up electronics
Some issues and questions:
- How do I do the heated bed? Sil. Pad under alum, then plastic printing sheet attached to alum?
- Found some instruction here: http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/D3D_PVC_pipe_8in_bed and here:
- Issues today getting a print from old printer with newest ordered J-Head and Mark-8 extruder from Geeetech... jammed and removing jam with acetone.
-Where can I just buy a working extruder for now? I need to print or grab a printed version of our adopted extruder.
Ideas and innovations Had and idea for a magnetic adaptor for frame mounting Could I make a device that is PVC printed that allows the D3D frame to grab on to a PVC fitting with magnets?
- Would be Two clamshells, perhaps the interior features would be jagged, or sprayed with spray rubber.
- Perm. magnets at either end for grip.
- One of the clam-shells would have a place for a screw to pass compleatly though
- would make the frame a small bit bigger. would be nice to have this Grab onto the PVC versus drilling though it
To get this up to date, the CAD is rendered.
Today, I am assymbuling the printer. I have 4 of the Universal Axis Units built, but only have the timing belt in one of them.
GOAL: From today, I am going to try and cut the PVC pipes.
11:30 From the D3D frame gen, I have a pipe length of precisely 493.546mm that's 19.43094488"... so, I'll rationalize this down to 19 1/25" because then, you can push the pipe in so it totally snugly grabs around the corner fitting. I'll see how this cut works.
all cuts took a half hour. I like this fit. ! Pictures as soon as I get my file server up again... Update 5/20 picture of build at this time:
Found a Basis for a render http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/File:Medium_Size_Version_12_in.FCStd
I have a great deal to learn in Freecad on more adv. assym work. Such as how There are parameters for assymblies, and there is a linked parameter for rod lenght between the Right and left Y universal axis so you can change lenght in one spot. super cool.
- 3d Printing Techniques
- Open Source Digital Fabrication Construction Set
- D3D 1612 Product Manual
- Here is a note on the simplified model - https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=38&v=Epit8c9zp8Q
- here are the simplified models we will build this off of past v0.3:http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/D3D_CNC_Circuit_Mill
- D3D v18.02 BOM
- http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/D3D_Part_Library#Assembly_Index - This is all of our D3D assy. modules so far.
- http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/File:Prusa_i3_mk2_extruder_adapted.fcstd Extruder we will use
- http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/D3D_Instructional_videos_for_April,_29th,2017_Workshop << helpful instructions for temporary ref.