Ikea Lack Enclosure
Contents
Basics
- This is a version of a 3D Printer Enclosure that uses Ikea Lack tables as the main framing element
- Various designs use different 3D Printed brackets, and are set up for different filament storage workflows
- This page aims to document existing Open Source Designs, Derive the best setup, and make a BOM (also maybe document User: Eric 's Build Progress)
A Design Posted to the website Printables by "X" Titled "X"
Existing Open Source Designs
Table Connection Only
Table Reinforcement
- Due to Ikea Lack tables being made from low grade Engineered Wood Products to reduce weight and cost, they aren't very rigid
- This is compounded by the sole connection being dual sided bolts in a drilled but not tapped hole
- Thus Reinforcements and Alternative Joinery can be of use
- Designs:
Filament Guides/Ports + FDM Filament Drybox Mounting
- A Design Posted to the website Printables by "AcE Krystal" Titled "Improved MMU Filament Guide for LACK IKEA table"
- The MMU is notoriously finicky, so other systems (or just normal single filament printing) shouldn't need this, but regardless having a slit rather than a fixed hole does seem to make sense due to the x axis travel moving that vertical line where the filament should optimally be
- If using an upper level for FDM Filament Storage a hole and filament guide will be needed
Window/Door Assembly
- A Design Posted to the website Printables by "Mordiev" Titled "Double Stack IKEA LACK Enclosure V2 (works w/ MMU2s)"
- A Design Posted to the website Printables by "Dominik Císař" Titled "Original Prusa i3 MK3 ENCLOSURE -Ikea Lack table - Prusa Research"
- This is the ORIGINAL Design all others are forked from/based on
- A Design Posted to the website Printables by "Inglord" Titled "Prusa i3 MK3 Corner ENCLOSURE - Ikea LACK table"
- Novel in that lays the printer across the diagonal, making more efficient use of the internal volume of the table in theory (also would make for a very aesthetically appealing print farm! )
Misc
Table Legs
- A Design Posted to the website Printables by "Strankler" Titled "IKEA-LACK adjustable foot"
- Allows for Leveling the Enclosure (Although as per the Upside Down Printing Positon (FDM 3D Printer) , and [that video by Maker's Muse with a printer working hanging from a Ratchet Strap ] most modern printers are quite resilient in regards to issues like this
Build by User: Eric
Planning
- Not much on it as of now, but i did make a Google Slide Document on This for a vBOM and other related things
What i currently have:
- 1x Prusa MK3s+ Printer (No modifications, stock spoolholder in original position)
- 1x Sunlu Filidryer S2
- 2x Ikea Lack Tables
- Filament (Need to decide on color used throughout, probably Black Polyterra PLA, although that white marble may work (and not have issues of looking "off" vs the paint on the table) (although going for black or some random color also has that advantage) (also as long as it is all the same color aesthetics don't matter too much, i just don't want chaotic me running out of a color mid-project and using another color; i have yet to adopt the Half Full is Empty Model and have a spare spool of each and buy a new one each time i use the spare)
General Plan
- I want a 1 Wide, 3 Tall, and 2 Deep Enclosure
- Due to the Prusa MK3S+ being a Bedslinger i want that to have plenty of room to do it's thing, and have the Wire Wrap have plenty of room and so on so that is why i want 2x deep
- Also could add a camera and Octoprint and all that later without feeling "cramped"
- Due to the Prusa MK3S+ being a Bedslinger i want that to have plenty of room to do it's thing, and have the Wire Wrap have plenty of room and so on so that is why i want 2x deep
- The "Floors" will be:
- The lower one being just table legs and/or storage (potentially one of those Square Yellow Cat Litter Buckets with lids that i use to store waste filament + basic tools)
- The Shelf with the Printer (and later on a camera + light strip + raspberry pi etc)
- Either a FDM Filament Dry Box, but probably just printing directly from my Sunlu Filidryer S2 thing
- Then the top "shelf" basically being a roof
- I may do these in Phases
Phases
Phase 0
- What i'm doing now
- No Enclosure, Using the Filidryer S2 then removing the filament, putting it on the stock spoolholder, printing what i need to then best case scenario put it back in daily, or more likely "print until it gets bad" / swap colors often
Phase 0.5
- I built the first table, set the printer on it, same configuration as Phase 0 and tried a benchy
- It (and/or a curious cat in a 1min or so point of me not guarding the printer) Caused a Layer Shift so as of now back to Phase 0
Phase 1
- Use the by Titled "Ikea Lack Table Storage Shelves" Brackets by "815 Design" and make "floor 1" and place printer on that
- Gets it off of other tables/the floor and gives it it's own "nook"
- Calculations:
- Needs:
- 2x Ikea Lack Tables (Good on That)
- 4x Middle Pieces (None Printed Yet)
- 8x Corner Pieces (None Printed Yet)
- "Grip Fast® #12 x 3/4" Combo Drive Zinc Pan Head Sheet Metal Screws" were the exact ones used
- Online Menards Link
- Home Depot (what we have down here in florida) doesn't have the exact brand, but these should work:
- 8 Pack Galvanized ( ~2 USD)
- 50 Pack Galvanized ( ~9 USD )
- Reading further and the hol;e may be 9mm so use #14?
- Quote: From Rudel @Rudel_19548 "Update: The holes on the printed parts are indeed 9mm as you listed in the instructions. However, the #12 pan head screws are just over 10mm wide. Ended up using #14x3/4 screws for the center holes on the corner pieces with the pre drilled Ikea holes. #8x3/4 pan head sheet metal screws perfectly fit everywhere else!" - January 1, 2023
- Needs: