3D Printer Shipping Followup
Contents
1/22
Hi Robert, Shipping your printer Monday - congratulations on buying the most collaborative printer in the world, and I hope we can collaborate on 3D printer lumber. When the package arrives- please identify this inventory of parts:
You will need to get M2, M2.5, M3, M6 hex keys to assemble.
You can view the STLs and FreeCAD files downloadable at https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/D3D_Pro_v20.07 All our docs on the printer are linked from this page. The printer has been tested extensively and burned in - and is ready to run. Think about it as collaborative build. I can help you effectively if you take pictures throughout the build. You are welcome to set up an account on our wiki - and start a Work Log so you can log your build there. See about work logs:
https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/Daily_Log_of_Tasks
For the build, main instructions are here:
But I just suggest you use the pictures at
for guidance - which is from the built version to the kit parts.
You'll probably need the wiring instructions:
And then the startup procedures at
We switched to a halogen bulb heater from the former nichrome version, which means you don't have to build the heater element yourself as in former versions. See https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TH2Bgi7SXSY - you could use 2 halogens in series for D3D Pro, which makes 250W. I am finding this heater is very efficient - I suspect 250W will probably equal 500W of nichrome because of the better heat transfer. The bed still has insulation. Halogens lay on top, not touching the metal top. Thermistor should be located away from direct heat of the halogens.
We do need to update the final build manual all in one place. You can help if you provide feedback on which parts need further explanation. Note that we are adding a high temp build chamber for true industrial grade printing, so the ecosystem is in active development.
First, check you have all the parts. The above links are part of the build manual. We have 2 manuals: Build Guide, and Production Guide. The former is for builders like yourself. The latter is for people who want to produce these kits, which you are welcome to do for fun or profit. The Production Guides are started, and are found at the overall development templates at:
https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/D3D_Pro_v20.07
Some notes:
OSE Linux Inside - entire software suite from FreeCAD to Cura, and Arduino Environment. But if you are on Linux, we suggest you use the old version of Cura, which is optimized if you are on Linux - download this - https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/Lulzbot_Cura_Appimage
Kit Notes:
The parts included get to a working printer. Once you have it - you can print all plastic parts to make more copies of the printer. There are exciting deep-level parts of the build: you can build the heat bed, and extruder - from scratch. This gives you direct experience in important parts of the printer. Nobody else builds their own extruder that I know of.
Quality Control: If all parts are in working order - this means after you build it and do the connections - you will be able to print on your first try. If you did everything right...
Printing - once you get set up and running - print more parts for another D3D machine and give it to a friend. Note that the exact same technology (8 mm Universal Axis) - https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/Universal_CNC_Axis - applies so you can build a printer with up to an 18" bed - our D3D Pro 3 that looks like this:
https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/D3D_v20.04.27
Any larger than that, you can print the parts, but you will have to use larger rods, such as 1" rods. This is described on the Universal Axis wiki page: https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/Universal_CNC_Axis
Once you inventory your parts - and have the tools on hand - you are ready to build. We have tons of other documentation - just ask and I can answer any questions that you may have. Please feel free to post to the OSE Workshops FB group:
https://www.facebook.com/groups/398759490316633/
We are looking for others to print parts, and we'll buy them from you - so once you set up your personal microfactory - keep that in mind as an option. We publish all our enterprise blueprints such as the Production Manual, so you are free to go into enterprise as well.
Thanks for supporting our project, happy building, and let me know if you have any questions. It will take perseverance to do this - but rest assured that if you go through to completion - you'll be amazed at what you have accomplished.
Let me know when/if you'd like to meet and to discuss any questions - I'm here to help and I hope you learn a lot building the printer. Don't be shy about asking questions - there is so much information that one could learn with the build.
Thanks, Marcin
8/18/21
Pro -
When the package arrives- please identify this inventory of parts:
_________________________________
The checks are what's included. X marks some tools you'll have to provide. You'll want a heat gun if you have to soften parts, cordless drill and 1/8 and 1/4 inch drill bits for cleaning parts, knife for cleaning parts, soldering iron.
You can view the STLs and FreeCAD files downloadable at https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/D3D_Pro_v20.07 The printer comes in a state where you need to upload the firmware, https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/D3D_Pro_v20.07_Software
More instructions are here - https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/3D_Printer_Manual#Software
Think about it as collaborative build. I can help you effectively if you take pictures throughout the build. You are welcome to set up an account on our wiki - and start a Work Log so you can log your build there. See about work logs:
https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/Daily_Log_of_Tasks
For the build, main instructions are here:
To build the extruder -
This is the extruder we use on all machines, including Universal. You can also take a look at the Universal build manual for more hints on the axis system build - the axis system is the same on all machines, with adaptations - but the concept is always the same.
More information on the heatbed is here:
https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/120V_heater_pad#Halogen_As_Heater To build the Universal Controller - see this page and make sure you convert RAMPS to 24V as shown here: https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/Universal_Controller#Converting_RAMPS_to_24V See video at https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/Universal_Controller#Build_Video We switched to a halogen bulb heater from the former nichrome version, which means you don't have to build the heater element yourself as in former versions. See https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TH2Bgi7SXSY - you could use 2 halogens in series for D3D Pro, which makes 250W. I am finding this heater is very efficient - I suspect 250W will probably equal 500W of nichrome because of the better heat transfer. The bed still has insulation. Halogens lay on top, not touching the metal top. Thermistor should be located away from direct heat of the halogens.
We do need to update the final build manual all in one place. You can help if you provide feedback on which parts need further explanation. Note that we are adding a high temp build chamber for true industrial grade printing, so the ecosystem is in active development.
First, check you have all the parts. The above links are part of the build manual. We have 2 manuals: Build Guide, and Production Guide. The former is for builders like yourself. The latter is for people who want to produce these kits, which you are welcome to do for fun or profit. The Production Guides are started, and are found at the overall development templates at:
https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/D3D_Pro_v20.07
Some notes:
OSE Linux Inside - entire software suite from FreeCAD to Cura, and Arduino Environment. But if you are on Linux, we suggest you use the old version of Cura, which is optimized if you are on Linux - download this - https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/Lulzbot_Cura_Appimage
Build notes: 1. Spray paint the frame and heater box before building - you can get a 99 cent can of black spray paint on the bottom shelf of hardware stores in their paint section.
2. Heed the frame hints at [1] so you can get a perfect frame - there's an art to it.
Kit Notes:
We printed this with large nozzles - 1.2 mm - so you will see that the prints are ugly and haven't been cleaned. This is cosmetic only, though I did use new filament which doesn't appear to be as good. But we favor stronger parts over better looks. Cleaning up prints with a knife or razor is useful. So is reaming out with 3 mm, 6 mm, and 8 mm drill bits. The looks are just a cosmetic thing - they don't affect how the machine works. Just make sure all belt holes, screw holes, etc are clear as in the Build Guide. Note also that some of the green filament was crap quality, so if any of your parts break, let me know, and we can send a replacement. The parts included get to a working printer. There are exciting deep-level parts of the build: you build the heat bed, and extruder - from scratch. This gives you direct experience in important parts of the printer. Nobody else builds their own extruder. Note on the frame - use a wood block with hammer to punch the steel angle into the corners, or use a rubber mallet. Quality Control: If all parts are in working order - this means after you build it and do the connections - you will be able to print on your first try. If you did everything right...
Printing - once you get set up and running - print more parts for another D3D machine and give it to a friend. Note that the exact same technology (8 mm Universal Axis) - https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/Universal_CNC_Axis - applies so you can build a printer with up to an 18" bed - our D3D Pro 3 that looks like this:
https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/D3D_v20.04.27
Any larger than that, you can print the parts, but you will have to use larger rods, such as 1" rods. This is described on the Universal Axis wiki page.
Once you inventory your parts - and have the tools on hand - you are ready to build. We have tons of other documentation - just ask and I can answer any questions that you may have. Please feel free to post to the OSE Workshops FB group:
https://www.facebook.com/groups/398759490316633/
We are looking for others to print parts, and we'll buy them from you - so once you set up your personal microfactory - keep that in mind as an option. We publish all our enterprise blueprints such as the Production Manual, so you are free to go into enterprise as well.
Thanks for supporting our project, happy building, and let me know if you have any questions. It will take perseverance to do this - but rest assured that if you go through to completion - you'll be amazed at what you have accomplished.
Note also that a copy of OSE Linux v2 comes with the kit. You can use Cura and FreeCAD on it, but I would download Lulzbot Cura. Let me know when/if you'd like to meet and to discuss any questions - I'm here to help and I hope you learn a lot building the printer. Don't be shy about asking questions - there is so much information that one could learn with the build.
Thanks, Marcin
6/21/21 - Pro
Hi Emilio, Please find your tracking number, just shared with you.
When the package arrives- please identify this inventory of printed parts: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1okayrxF-uVJiSDgpTKp-yPTPYMZDgEwuufDb-oHJ9xQ/edit#gid=1610216226
You can view the STLs by importing into FreeCAD or view p5. in the manual. The printer comes in a state where you need to upload the firmware, https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/D3D_Pro_v20.07_Software More instructions are here - https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/3D_Printer_Manual#Software The inventory is this for parts -
Think about it as collaborative build. I can help you effectively if you take pictures throughout the build. You are welcome to set up an account on our wiki - and start a Work Log so you can log your build there. See about work logs:
https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/Daily_Log_of_Tasks
For the build, main instructions are here:
To build the extruder -
This is the extruder we use on all machines, including Universal. You can also take a look at the Universal build manual for more hints on the axis system build - the axis system is the same on all machines, with adaptations - but the concept is always the same.
More information on the heatbed is here:
https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/120V_heater_pad#Halogen_As_Heater
We switched to a halogen bulb heater from the former nichrome version, which means you don't have to build the heater element yourself as in former versions. See https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TH2Bgi7SXSY - you could use 2 halogens in series for D3D Pro, which makes 250W. I am finding this heater is very efficient - I suspect 250W will probably equal 500W of nichrome because of the better heat transfer.
The heatbed is the same concept as the Universal - steel shell, filler, + nichrome wire - so you can use the Universal guide for additional support material.
We do need to update the final build manual all in one place. You can help if you provide feedback on which parts need further explanation. Note that we are adding a high temp build chamber for true industrial grade printing, so the ecosystem is in active development.
First, check you have all the parts. The above links are part of the build manual. We have 2 manuals: Build Guide, and Production Guide. The former is for builders like yourself. The latter is for people who want to produce these kits, which you are welcome to do for fun or profit. The Production Guides are started, and are found at the overall development templates at:
https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/D3D_Pro_v20.07
Some notes:
OSE Linux Inside - entire software suite from FreeCAD to Cura, and Arduino Environment. But if you are on Linux, we suggest you use the old version of Cura, which is optimized if you are on Linux - download this - https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/Lulzbot_Cura_Appimage
Build notes: 1. Spray paint the frame and heater box before building - you can get a 99 cent can of black spray paint on the bottom shelf of hardware stores in their paint section.
2. Heed the frame hints at [2] so you can get a perfect frame - there's an art to it.
Kit Notes:
We printed this with large nozzles - 1.2 mm - so you will see that the prints are ugly and haven't been cleaned. This is cosmetic only, though I did use new filament which doesn't appear to be as good. But we favor stronger parts over better looks. Cleaning up prints with a knife or razor is useful. So is reaming out with 3 mm, 6 mm, and 8 mm drill bits. The looks are just a cosmetic thing - they don't affect how the machine works. Just make sure all belt holes, screw holes, etc are clear as in the Build Guide. Note also that some of the green filament was crap quality, so if any of your parts break, let me know, and we can send a replacement. The parts included get to a working printer. There are exciting deep-level parts of the build: you build the heat bed, and extruder - from scratch. This gives you direct experience in important parts of the printer. Nobody else builds their own extruder. Note on the frame - use a wood block with hammer to punch the steel angle into the corners, or use a rubber mallet. Quality Control: If all parts are in working order - this means after you build it and do the connections - you will be able to print on your first try. If you did everything right...
Printing - once you get set up and running - print more parts for another D3D machine and give it to a friend. Note that the exact same technology (8 mm Universal Axis) - https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/Universal_CNC_Axis - applies so you can build a printer with up to an 18" bed - our D3D Pro 3 that looks like this:
https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/D3D_v20.04.27
Any larger than that, you can print the parts, but you will have to use larger rods, such as 1" rods. This is described on the Universal Axis wiki page.
Once you inventory your parts - and have the tools on hand - you are ready to build. We have tons of other documentation - just ask and I can answer any questions that you may have. Please feel free to post to the OSE Workshops FB group:
https://www.facebook.com/groups/398759490316633/
We are looking for others to print parts, and we'll buy them from you - so once you set up your personal microfactory - keep that in mind as an option. We publish all our enterprise blueprints such as the Production Manual, so you are free to go into enterprise as well.
Thanks for supporting our project, happy building, and let me know if you have any questions. It will take perseverance to do this - but rest assured that if you go through to completion - you'll be amazed at what you have accomplished.
Note also that a copy of OSE Linux v2 comes with the kit. You can use Cura and FreeCAD on it, but I would download Lulzbot Cura. Let me know when/if you'd like to meet and to discuss any questions - I'm here to help and I hope you learn a lot building the printer. Don't be shy about asking questions - there is so much information that one could learn with the build.
Thanks, Marcin
6/5/21 - Universal
Hi David, Shipped yesterday. Sorry about the lateness- we've been flooded with applications for the OSE Apprenticeship - actually a good problem to have. And yes, I did notice that your name was twice in the shipping form, sorry about that. And if you frequent any university - please print out and hang our Apprenticeship flyer, downloadable at the top of the last link.
The inventory is this for 3DP parts is here - https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1OA2ZM1tbFEbF3kf0n-KD_k2eF35UTF90NZLEFf0-ML0/edit#gid=190401196 Note the 2 items crossed out.
We have since upgraded to halogen light heaters - no fabrication required. Since halogens are 85% heat - they make an easy, effective, fast heater. Seehttps://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/120V_heater_pad#Halogen_As_Heater That's an education in itself about the halogens - I'm wondering why nobody else is doing this because it's the most effective solution I've seen.
Do you have a soldering iron or do you want us to send you one? There will be just a few minor things to solder.
I need to send you the halogen holders and endstops from Amazon - I ran out of them. Let me know if you want me to send the soldering iron as well If you wouldn't mind - please print out the inventory, and check off each item. If you can then take a picture of that, it would help me make sure that you found everything and I can address any issues later on in your build. Think about it as collaborative build. I can help you effectively if you take pictures throughout the build.
You are welcome to set up an account on our wiki - and start a Work Log so you can log your build there. See about work logs: https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/Daily_Log_of_Tasks
For the build, main instructions are here:https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/D3D_Universal_v20.07_Build_Instructions I saw you have been looking at them, so you should be ahead of the game.
This is the extruder we use on all machines, including Universal + Pro. More information on the heatbed with nichrome is here so you will appreciate why we don't build this way any more:https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/120V_Heatbed
We do need to update the final build manual. You can help if you provide feedback on which parts need further explanation. First, check you have all the parts. The above links are part of the build manual. We have 2 manuals: Build Guide, and Production Guide. The former is for builders like yourself. The latter is for people who want to produce these kits, which you are welcome to do for fun or profit. The Production Guides are started, and are found at the overall development templates at:https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/D3D_Pro_v20.07 https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/D3D_Universal_v20.07
Some notes: OSE Linux Inside - entire software suite from FreeCAD to Cura, and Arduino Environment. I recommend you download this Appimage for old Lulzbot Cura - https://forum.lulzbot.com/t/i-created-a-linux-appimage-for-cura-21-08-for-old-tazs/22506- the new Cura is just really bad for our purposes.
Build notes: 1. Spray paint the conduit if you like - you can get a 99 cent can of black spray paint on the bottom shelf of hardware stores in their paint section. 2. If parts are not straight or don't fit - use a heat gun. You have to clean the parts, they are straight off the printer. 3. Use a wooden base to screw in the 3D printed base. While the printer will work, it will be wobbly without a wood base. I use a 2x12 piece of lumber. Spray paint it black for the OSE look.
Kit Notes:
We printed this with large nozzles - 1.2 mm - so you will see that the prints are ugly and haven't been cleaned. This is cosmetic only, though I did use new filament which doesn't appear to be as good. But we favor stronger parts over better looks. Cleaning up prints with a knife or razor is useful. So is reaming out with 3 mm, 6 mm, and 8 mm drill bits. The looks are just a cosmetic thing - they don't affect how the machine works. Just make sure all belt holes, screw holes, etc are clear as in the Build Guide.
The parts included get to a working printer. There are exciting deep-level parts of the build: you build the heat bed, and extruder - from scratch. This gives you direct experience in heater element design/build, and extruder design/build.
You will be able to print on your first try. If you did everything right...
Printing - once you get set up and running - print more parts for another D3D machine and give it to a friend. Note that the exact same technology (8 mm Universal Axis) - https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/Universal_CNC_Axis - applies so you can build a printer with up to an 18" bed - our D3D Pro 3 that looks like this: https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/D3D_v20.04.27 You can print parts for it with the Universal 2. But you'd need to break the base into parts if you wanted to print another Universal 2.
Any larger than that, you can print the parts, but you will have to use larger rods, such as 1" rods. This is described on the Universal Axis wiki page. Once you inventory your parts - and have the tools on hand - you are ready to build. We have tons of other documentation - just ask and I can answer any questions that you may have. Please feel free to post to the OSE Workshops FB group:https://www.facebook.com/groups/398759490316633/
We are looking for others to print parts, and we'll buy them from you - so once you set up your personal microfactory - keep that in mind as an option. We publish all our enterprise blueprints such as the Production Manual, so you are free to go into enterprise as well.
Thanks for supporting our project, happy building, and let me know if you have any questions. It will take perseverance to do this - but rest assured that if you go through to completion - you'll be amazed at what you have accomplished. Note also that a copy of OSE Linux v2 comes with the kit. Let me know when/if you'd like to meet and to discuss any questions - I'm here to help. Thanks, Marcin
3/26/21
You should have received your printer. It has an SD card inside, with a sample print file that you should print as your first test print. It's a tall columnar rectangle of 1 cm side. The controller and all electronics have been tested and work. The software is already installed on the controller.
The inventory is this for 3DP parts -
If you wouldn't mind - please print out the inventory, and check off each item. If you can then take a picture of that, it would help me make sure that you found everything and I can address any issues later on in your build. Think about it as collaborative build. I can help you effectively if you take pictures throughout the build. You are welcome to set up an account on our wiki - and start a Work Log so you can log your build there. See about work logs:
https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/Daily_Log_of_Tasks
For the build, main instructions are here:
To build the extruder -
This is the extruder we use on all machines, including Universal. You can also take a look at the Universal build manual for more hints on the axis system build - the axis system is the same on all machines, with adaptations - but the concept is always the same.
More information on the heatbed is here:
https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/120V_Heatbed PS. If you find the nichrome heater too challenging, you can do a halogen bulb heater, which means you don't have to build the heater element yourself. See https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TH2Bgi7SXSY - you could use 2 halogens in series for D3D Pro, which makes 250W. I am finding this heater is very efficient - I suspect 250W will probably equal 500W of nichrome because of the better heat transfer.
The heatbed is the same concept as the Universal - steel shell, filler, + nichrome wire - so you can use the Universal guide for additional support material.
We do need to update the final build manual all in one place. You can help if you provide feedback on which parts need further explanation. Note that we are adding a high temp build chamber for true industrial grade printing, so the ecosystem is in active development.
First, check you have all the parts. The above links are part of the build manual. We have 2 manuals: Build Guide, and Production Guide. The former is for builders like yourself. The latter is for people who want to produce these kits, which you are welcome to do for fun or profit. The Production Guides are started, and are found at the overall development templates at:
https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/D3D_Pro_v20.07
https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/D3D_Universal_v20.07
Some notes:
OSE Linux Inside - entire software suite from FreeCAD to Cura, and Arduino Environment.
Build notes: 1. Spray paint the frame and heater box before building - you can get a 99 cent can of black spray paint on the bottom shelf of hardware stores in their paint section.
2. Heed the frame hints at [3] so you can get a perfect frame - there's an art to it.
3. For the heater element - once you wind the nichrome around the inner fiberglass sleeve core - you are ready to thread it through the outer fiberglass sleeve. Watch out: you can poke right out of the sleeve with the inner element because the fiberglass sleeve is loosely braided. Thus, attach the feeding end of the inner nichrome element to a very blunt object with tape such as electrical tape - such as the round cap of a sharpie marker - so when you feed the nichrome through, it will not poke out of the sides of the fiberglass sleeve.
Kit Notes:
We printed this with large nozzles - 1.2 mm - so you will see that the prints are ugly and haven't been cleaned. This is cosmetic only, though I did use new filament which doesn't appear to be as good. But we favor stronger parts over better looks. Cleaning up prints with a knife or razor is useful. So is reaming out with 3 mm, 6 mm, and 8 mm drill bits. The looks are just a cosmetic thing - they don't affect how the machine works. Just make sure all belt holes, screw holes, etc are clear as in the Build Guide. The parts included get to a working printer. There are exciting deep-level parts of the build: you build the heat bed, and extruder - from scratch. This gives you direct experience in heater element design/build, and extruder design/build.
Note on the frame - use a wood block with hammer to punch the steel angle into the corners, or use a rubber mallet. Quality Control: All parts have been verified. The controller and all electronics are in full working order - tested, firmware uploaded, ready to run. An SD card is in the LCD screen already. This means after you build it and do the connections - you will be able to print on your first try. If you did everything right...
Printing - once you get set up and running - print more parts for another D3D machine and give it to a friend. Note that the exact same technology (8 mm Universal Axis) - https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/Universal_CNC_Axis - applies so you can build a printer with up to an 18" bed - our D3D Pro 3 that looks like this:
https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/D3D_v20.04.27
Any larger than that, you can print the parts, but you will have to use larger rods, such as 1" rods. This is described on the Universal Axis wiki page.
Once you inventory your parts - and have the tools on hand - you are ready to build. We have tons of other documentation - just ask and I can answer any questions that you may have. Please feel free to post to the OSE Workshops FB group:
https://www.facebook.com/groups/398759490316633/
We are looking for others to print parts, and we'll buy them from you - so once you set up your personal microfactory - keep that in mind as an option. We publish all our enterprise blueprints such as the Production Manual, so you are free to go into enterprise as well.
Thanks for supporting our project, happy building, and let me know if you have any questions. It will take perseverance to do this - but rest assured that if you go through to completion - you'll be amazed at what you have accomplished.
Note also that a copy of OSE Linux v2 comes with the kit. You can use Cura and FreeCAD on it. Let me know when/if you'd like to meet and to discuss any questions - I'm here to help.
Thanks, Marcin
Pro 3/21
You should have received your printer. It has an SD card inside, with a sample print file that you should print as your first test print. It's a tall columnar rectangle of 1 cm side. The controller and all electronics have been tested and work. The software is already installed on the controller.
The inventory is this for 3DP parts -
If you wouldn't mind - please print out the inventory, and check off each item. If you can then take a picture of that, it would help me make sure that you found everything and I can address any issues later on in your build. Think about it as collaborative build. I can help you effectively if you take pictures throughout the build. You are welcome to set up an account on our wiki - and start a Work Log so you can log your build there. See about work logs:
https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/Daily_Log_of_Tasks
For the build, main instructions are here:
To build the extruder -
This is the extruder we use on all machines, including Universal. You can also take a look at the Universal build manual for more hints on the axis system build - the axis system is the same on all machines, with adaptations - but the concept is always the same.
More information on the heatbed is here:
https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/120V_Heatbed
The heatbed is the same concept as the Universal - steel shell, filler, + nichrome wire - so you can use the Universal guide for additional support material.
PS. If you find the nichrome heater too challenging, you can do a halogen bulb heater, which means you don't have to build the heater element yourself. See https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TH2Bgi7SXSY - you could use 2 halogens in series for D3D Pro, which makes 250W. I am finding this heater is very efficient - I suspect 250W will probably equal 500W of nichrome because of the better heat transfer.
We do need to update the final build manual all in one place. You can help if you provide feedback on which parts need further explanation. Note that we are adding a high temp build chamber for true industrial grade printing, so the ecosystem is in active development.
First, check you have all the parts. The above links are part of the build manual. We have 2 manuals: Build Guide, and Production Guide. The former is for builders like yourself. The latter is for people who want to produce these kits, which you are welcome to do for fun or profit. The Production Guides are started, and are found at the overall development templates at:
https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/D3D_Pro_v20.07
https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/D3D_Universal_v20.07
Some notes:
OSE Linux Inside - entire software suite from FreeCAD to Cura, and Arduino Environment.
Build notes:
1. bend the panel out with a heat gun. Spray paint the frame and heater box before building - you can get a 99 cent can of black spray paint on the bottom shelf of hardware stores in their paint section.
2. Heed the frame hints at [4] so you can get a perfect frame - there's an art to it.
3. For the heater element - once you wind the nichrome around the inner fiberglass sleeve core - you are ready to thread it through the outer fiberglass sleeve. Watch out: you can poke right out of the sleeve with the inner element because the fiberglass sleeve is loosely braided. Thus, attach the feeding end of the inner nichrome element to a very blunt object with tape such as electrical tape - such as the round cap of a sharpie marker - so when you feed the nichrome through, it will not poke out of the sides of the fiberglass sleeve.
Kit Notes:
We printed this with large nozzles - 1.2 mm - so you will see that the prints are ugly. But we favor stronger parts over better looks. Cleaning up prints with a knife or razor is useful. So is reaming out with 3 mm, 6 mm, and 8 mm drill bits. The looks are just a cosmetic thing - they don't affect how the machine works. Just make sure all belt holes, screw holes, etc are clear as in the Build Guide. We had issues printing in freezing weather - our printshop is not heated currently - so some prints are really bad but they should all work fine - it's cosmetic. You can clean up with knife and razor.
The parts included get to a working printer. There are exciting deep-level parts of the build: you build the heat bed, and extruder - from scratch. This gives you direct experience in heater element design/build, and extruder design/build.
Note on the frame - use a wood block with hammer to punch the steel angle into the corners, or use a rubber mallet. Quality Control: All parts have been verified. The controller and all electronics are in full working order - tested, firmware uploaded, ready to run. An SD card is in the LCD screen already. This means after you build it and do the connections - you will be able to print on your first try. If you did everything right...
Printing - once you get set up and running - print more parts for another D3D machine and give it to a friend. Note that the exact same technology (8 mm Universal Axis) - https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/Universal_CNC_Axis - applies so you can build a printer with up to an 18" bed - our D3D Pro 3 that looks like this:
https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/D3D_v20.04.27
Any larger than that, you can print the parts, but you will have to use larger rods, such as 1" rods. This is described on the Universal Axis wiki page.
Once you inventory your parts - and have the tools on hand - you are ready to build. We have tons of other documentation - just ask and I can answer any questions that you may have. Please feel free to post to the OSE Workshops FB group:
https://www.facebook.com/groups/398759490316633/
We are looking for others to print parts, and we'll buy them from you - so once you set up your personal microfactory - keep that in mind as an option. We publish all our enterprise blueprints such as the Production Manual, so you are free to go into enterprise as well.
Thanks for supporting our project, happy building, and let me know if you have any questions. It will take perseverance to do this - but rest assured that if you go through to completion - you'll be amazed at what you have accomplished.
Note also that a copy of OSE Linux v2 comes with the kit. You can use Cura and FreeCAD on it. Let me know when/if you'd like to meet and to discuss any questions.
Thanks, Marcin
Pro 2/21
You should have received your printer. It has an SD card inside, with a sample print file that you should print as your first test print. It's a tall columnar rectangle of 1 cm side. The controller and all electronics have been tested and work. The software is already installed on the controller.
The inventory is this for 3DP parts -
If you wouldn't mind - please print out the inventory, and check off each item. If you can then take a picture of that, it would help me make sure that you found everything and I can address any issues later on in your build. Think about it as collaborative build. I can help you effectively if you take pictures throughout the build. You are welcome to set up an account on our wiki - and start a Work Log so you can log your build there. See about work logs:
https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/Daily_Log_of_Tasks
For the build, main instructions are here:
To build the extruder -
This is the extruder we use on all machines, inclusing Universal. You can also take a look at the Universal build manual for more hints on the axis system build - the axis system is the same on all machines, with adaptations - but the concept is always the same.
More information on the heatbed is here:
https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/120V_Heatbed
The heatbed is the same concept as the Universal - steel shell, filler, + nichrome wire - so you can use the Universal guide for additional support material.
We do need to update the final build manual all in one place. You can help if you provide feedback on which parts need further explanation. Note that we are adding a high temp build chamber for true industrial grade printing, so the ecosystem is in active development.
First, check you have all the parts. The above links are part of the build manual. We have 2 manuals: Build Guide, and Production Guide. The former is for builders like yourself. The latter is for people who want to produce these kits, which you are welcome to do for fun or profit. The Production Guides are started, and are found at the overall development templates at:
https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/D3D_Pro_v20.07
https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/D3D_Universal_v20.07
Some notes:
OSE Linux Inside - entire software suite from FreeCAD to Cura, and Arduino Environment.
Build notes - bend the panel out with a heat gun. Spray paint the frame and heater box before building - you can get a 99 cent can of blcak spray paint on the bottom shelf of hardware stores in their paint section.
We printed this with large nozzles - 1.2 mm - so you will see that the prints are ugly. But we favor stronger parts over better looks. Cleaning up prints with a knife or razor is useful. So is reaming out with 3 mm, 6 mm, and 8 mm drill bits. The looks are just a cosmetic thing - they don't affect how the machine works. Just make sure all belt holes, screw holes, etc are clear as in the Build Guide. We had issues printing in freezing weather - our printshop is not heated currently - so some prints are really bad but they should all work fine - it's cosmetic. You can clean up with knife and razor.
The parts included get to a working printer. There are exciting deep-level parts of the build: you build the heat bed, and extruder - from scratch. This gives you direct experience in heater element design/build, and extruder design/build.
Note on the frame - use a wood block with hammer to punch the steel angle into the corners, or use a rubber mallet. Quality Control: All parts have been verified. The controller and all electronics are in full working order - tested, firmware uploaded, ready to run. An SD card is in the LCD screen already. This means after you build it and do the connections - you will be able to print on your first try. If you did everything right...
Printing - once you get set up and running - print more parts for another D3D machine and give it to a friend. Note that the exact same technology (8 mm Universal Axis) - https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/Universal_CNC_Axis - applies so you can build a printer with up to an 18" bed - our D3D Pro 3 that looks like this:
https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/D3D_v20.04.27
Any larger than that, you can print the parts, but you will have to use larger rods, such as 1" rods. This is described on the Universal Axis wiki page.
Once you inventory your parts - and have the tools on hand - you are ready to build. We have tons of other documentation - just ask and I can answer any questions that you may have. Please feel free to post to the OSE Workshops FB group:
https://www.facebook.com/groups/398759490316633/
We are looking for others to print parts, and we'll buy them from you - so once you set up your personal microfactory - keep that in mind as an option. We publish all our enterprise blueprints such as the Production Manual, so you are free to go into enterprise as well.
Thanks for supporting our project, happy building, and let me know if you have any questions. It will take perseverance to do this - but rest assured that if you go through to completion - you'll be amazed at what you have accomplished.
Note also that a copy of OSE Linux v2 comes with the kit. You can use Cura and FreeCAD on it. Let me know when/if you'd like to meet and to discuss any questions.
Thanks, Marcin
Universal
Hi __,
Printer should arrive ________. Please see tracking number - attached. The package is packed like this - https://docs.google.com/presentation/d/1tLpmYaehK0-LlIoNx980HyQBJrH-aTxUnT3pAx37nAg/edit#slide=id.g74b4fc63a8_0_0
The inventory is shown on the page after, so check you have all the parts. The above link is part of the production manual. We have 2 manuals: Build Guide, and Production Guide. The former is for builders like yourself. The latter is for people who want to produce these kits, which you are welcome to do for fun or profit.
Some notes:
We printed this with large nozzles - 1.2 mm - so you will see that the prints are ugly. But we favor stronger parts over better looks. Cleaning up prints with a knife or razor is useful. So is reaming out with 3 mm, 6 mm, and 8 mm drill bits. The looks are just a cosmetic thing - they don't affect how the machine works. Just make sure all belt holes, screw holes, etc are clear as in the Build Guide.
The Build Instructions are here - https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/D3D_Universal_v20.07_Build_Instructions Page 3 of the main build guide shows what tools are needed. Make sure you have these prior to starting. The parts included get to a working printer. There are exciting deep-level parts of the build: you build the heat bed, and extruder - from scratch. This gives you direct experience in heater element design/build, and extruder design/build.
Special notes: the printer benefits from screwing the base into a board. By itself, the base, after all parts are added - is heavy and will twist. There are 8 screws included - so find any board or surface and screw down the printer for better results.
Quality Control: All parts have been verified. The controller and all electronics are in full working order - tested, firmware uploaded, ready to run. An SD card is in the LCD screen already. This means after you build it and do the connections - you will be able to print on your first try. If you did everything right...
Printing - once you get set up and running - print more parts for another D3D Universal and give it to a friend, or print parts for the larger D3D Pro with this printer:
https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/D3D_Pro
Note that the exact same technology (8 mm Universal Axis) - https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/Universal_CNC_Axis - applies so you can build a printer with up to an 18" bed - our D3D Pro 3 that looks like this:
https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/D3D_v20.04.27
Any larger than that, you can print the parts, but you will have to use larger rods, such as 1" rods. This is described on the Universal Axis wiki page.
Once you inventory your parts - and have the tools on hand - you are ready to build. We have tons of other documentation - just ask and I can answer any questions that you may have. Please feel free to post to the OSE Workshops FB group: https://www.facebook.com/groups/398759490316633/
We are looking for others to print parts, and we'll buy them from you - so once you set up your personal microfactory - keep that in mind as an option. We publish all our enterprise blueprints such as the Production Manual, so you are free to go into enterprise as well.
Thanks for supporting our project, happy building, and let me know if you have any questions. It will take persevearance to do this - but rest assured that if you go through to completion - you'll be amazed at what you have accomplished.
Thanks, Marcin
