CEB Press/Manufacturing Instructions/Main Frame Preparation: Difference between revisions

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==Nuts and Bolts==
==Nuts and Bolts==
Note: we suggest using steel nuts, because these will be welded, and the galvanized nuts release toxic gases when welded. You can use galvanized instead if necessary, but its not recommended.
Note: we suggest using steel nuts, because these will be welded, and the galvanized nuts release toxic gases when welded. You can use galvanized instead if necessary, but its not recommended.
*3/4" Steel Nuts (6)
*3/4" Steel Nuts (6 normal CEB, 10 monster CEB)
**Drawer members: (2)
**Drawer members: (2)
**Wide cylinder supports: (2)
**Wide cylinder supports: (2)
**Thin cylinder supports: (2)
**Thin cylinder supports: (2)
**Monster CEB only: (4) Drawer adjuster bolts
*3/4" Galvanized Nuts (9)
**Magnet holder (1)
**Drawer adjusters (4)
**Sensor holders (2)
**Wide cylinder supports (2)
*3/4” Threaded Rod: (20.75” total normal ceb) (35.75" total monster ceb)
*3/4” Threaded Rod: (20.75” total normal ceb) (35.75" total monster ceb)
**Magnet holder: 1.25" (1)
**Magnet holder: 1.25" (1)
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**Thin cylinder support bolts: 6.25" (2)
**Thin cylinder support bolts: 6.25" (2)
**Monster CEB only: Drawer adjuster bolts: 3.75" (4)
**Monster CEB only: Drawer adjuster bolts: 3.75" (4)
*3/4"x2.5" Bolts (Normal CEB: 6, Monster: 2)
**Wide cylinder supports: (2)
**Normal only: Drawer adjuster bolts (4)


=Diagrams=
=Diagrams=
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*Weld 3/4" nuts to the outside of the U channel where the holes are torched.
*Weld 3/4" nuts to the outside of the U channel where the holes are torched.
**Weld it with a bolt coming thru the other side so it protects the threads and so you know the nut won't get off center.
**Weld it with a bolt coming thru the other side so it protects the threads and so you know the nut won't get off center.
*Grind away any spatter between the bolts. <br/>
'''Monster only: Adjustment bolts'''
*Make (4) 3/4" x 3.5" bolts using 3.75" threaded rod and steel nuts. See [[Making Bolts]].
===Assembly===
[[Image:adjustmentnut.jpg|thumb|Adjustment bolt and nut configuration]]
*For the '''Drawer Members''', Put the nuts and bolts in thru the U-channel and welded nut, as shown in the image.


==Prepare the wide cylinder supports==
==Prepare the wide cylinder supports==
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#Place a steel nut over the hole and insure it is clear for a bolt and flush.
#Place a steel nut over the hole and insure it is clear for a bolt and flush.
#Weld the nut in place.
#Weld the nut in place.
#Put a galvanized nut on a 3/4"x2.5" bolt and thread through the welded nut on each side.


==Prepare the thin cylinder supports==
==Prepare the thin cylinder supports==
[[Image:thinsupports.jpg|thumb|The thin cylinder supports.]]
[[Image:thinsupports.jpg|thumb|The thin cylinder supports.]]
*Weld some 3/4" ID pipe (3/4" to 1") to the 3" U-channel, in the center. 4-8 good tacks is sufficient.
*Weld some 3/4" ID pipe (3/4" to 1") to the 3" U-channel, in the center. 4-8 good tacks is sufficient.
*Make some 6" long 3/4" bolts, by using a nut and 6.25" of threaded rod. See [[Making Bolts]].
*Make 2 6" long 3/4" bolts, by using a nut and 6.25" of threaded rod. See [[Making Bolts]].


==Prepare the magnet holder==
==Prepare the magnet holder==
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#Shield the threaded rod (1.25") from spatter by putting 2 nuts on it.
#Shield the threaded rod (1.25") from spatter by putting 2 nuts on it.
#Prop up the 1/4"x1"x(13" for monster)(9" for normal) flatbar so it's level with the center of the threaded rod, ensuring they are parallel.
#Prop up the 1/4"x1"x(13" for monster)(9" for normal) flatbar so it's level with the center of the threaded rod, ensuring they are parallel.
#Weld the two together and remove the nuts. Be careful that it doesn't warp out of square.
#Weld the two together and remove one nut, leaving one in place. Be careful that it doesn't warp out of square.


==Prepare the sensor holders==
==Prepare the sensor holders==
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*For normal, weld 3.5" of rebar to 3.5" of threaded rod at a right angle, taking care to protect the threads from spatter. See image on right.
*For normal, weld 3.5" of rebar to 3.5" of threaded rod at a right angle, taking care to protect the threads from spatter. See image on right.
*For monster, make one sensor holder like above, and one as shown on the left.
*For monster, make one sensor holder like above, and one as shown on the left.
Thread a galvanized nut onto each.

Revision as of 17:43, 18 October 2011

Warning.png Warning: The documentation for the CEB Press is undergoing a thorough overhaul. CAD models and written directions are presently obsolete. For more information, see Talk:CEB_Press#Documentation_overhaul_in_progress. When the models, specifications and text on this article have been thoroughly reviewed, updated when necessary, and confirmed as whole and accurate, this warning may be removed.

The following steps can be done in any order before beginning the assembly of the main frame.

Tools Required

  • Welder
  • Torch
  • Punch with 3/4" dies
  • Angle Grinder
  • Big square
  • Speed square

Materials Required

Steel

  • 6” Heavy (7/16”) U-Channel- (246.5" Monster CEB) (226.5" Normal CEB)
    • A- (53” for Monster)(43" for normal) (2); Vertical Members
    • B- 20 3/4” (4); Horizontal Members
    • C- 28 3/4” (2); Drawer Members
  • For the "Monster" CEB: 6" Light (1/4") U-Channel: 41.5" total; Wide cylinder support horizontal: 20 3/4" (2)
    • For the normal CEB: 2"x2"x1/4" Angle: 41.5"; Wide cylinder support horizontal: 20 3/4" (2)
  • 2"x2"x1/4": 11.5"; Wide cylinder support verticals: 5.75" (2)
  • 3” U-Channel: 3" total: 1.5” (2); Thin cylinder Spacers
  • 1” Pipe: 3" total: 1.5” (2); Thin cylinder Spacers
  • 1/4”x1” Flatbar: (13” for Monster)(9" for normal) (1); Magnet holder
  • 3/8” Rebar: 7" total: 3.5” (2); Sensor Holders

Nuts and Bolts

Note: we suggest using steel nuts, because these will be welded, and the galvanized nuts release toxic gases when welded. You can use galvanized instead if necessary, but its not recommended.

  • 3/4" Steel Nuts (6 normal CEB, 10 monster CEB)
    • Drawer members: (2)
    • Wide cylinder supports: (2)
    • Thin cylinder supports: (2)
    • Monster CEB only: (4) Drawer adjuster bolts
  • 3/4" Galvanized Nuts (9)
    • Magnet holder (1)
    • Drawer adjusters (4)
    • Sensor holders (2)
    • Wide cylinder supports (2)
  • 3/4” Threaded Rod: (20.75” total normal ceb) (35.75" total monster ceb)
    • Magnet holder: 1.25" (1)
    • Sensor holders: 3.5" (2)
    • Thin cylinder support bolts: 6.25" (2)
    • Monster CEB only: Drawer adjuster bolts: 3.75" (4)
  • 3/4"x2.5" Bolts (Normal CEB: 6, Monster: 2)
    • Wide cylinder supports: (2)
    • Normal only: Drawer adjuster bolts (4)


Diagrams

The holes in the horizontal members:
Horizontalholes.png
The holes in the drawer members:
Drawerholes.png

Monsterverticals.gif
Normalverticals.gif
Nutplacement.png

Fabrication Instructions

Prepare the horizontal members (B), vertical members (A) and the drawer members (C)

The horizontal members only need holes punched. The drawer members need holes punched, and nuts welded to them. The vertical members only need holes torched in them.

Punching

the punched holes

See the diagrams above for hole placement.

  • In the horizontal members, the holes are all 3/4" diameter. The holes should be 7/8” in from open side, or 19" apart, and as close as you can get them to the wall of the U-channel(whats this approx? I think it's 1.25. It depends on your punch). There are 4 holes in each piece.
  • See the diagrams for the vertical members hole locations, as they vary between the "normal" and "monster" CEB's. They will need to be mirror images, but only one vertical will have the sensor hole.
  • In the drawer members, the holes are all 3/4" diameter. The holes should be 4 7/8” in from the long side, or 19" apart, and as close as you can get them to the wall of the U-Channel. There are 4 holes in each piece.

Torching

Vertical Members
The roller slots need to be torched. This is where the rollers bolt to the frame. See diagram.

  • The center of them is located 9 5/16" away from the top of the machine, 2 inches in from one side of the U-Channel of the vertical members. This side must be the side which ejects the bricks. Label it so. Keep in mind the vertical members are mirror images of eachother, so don't make the same holes.
  • They are to be 1.5" tall, and 5/8" wide.
  • Grind away all slag.

Drawer Members

  • Torch holes for 3/4" bolts as shown in the diagram.
  • Grind away the slag.

Welding

Preparing to weld the adjustment nuts

Drawer Members

  • Weld 3/4" nuts to the outside of the U channel where the holes are torched.
    • Weld it with a bolt coming thru the other side so it protects the threads and so you know the nut won't get off center.
  • Grind away any spatter between the bolts.

Monster only: Adjustment bolts

  • Make (4) 3/4" x 3.5" bolts using 3.75" threaded rod and steel nuts. See Making Bolts.

Assembly

File:Adjustmentnut.jpg
Adjustment bolt and nut configuration
  • For the Drawer Members, Put the nuts and bolts in thru the U-channel and welded nut, as shown in the image.

Prepare the wide cylinder supports

The "monster" wide cylinder supports
The "normal" wide cylinder supports
  1. For the "Monster CEB," punch 3/4" holes in the thin U-Channel in the same manner as with the horizontal members (19" apart, 3/4" diameter)
    • For the "Normal CEB," torch 3/4" holes in the angle for the cylinder supports in the same manner as with the horizontal members.(19" apart, 3/4" diameter)
  2. Weld the 2"x2" angle (5.75") centered and squared on one side of the U-Channel.
  3. Torch a hole (3/4" for "normal") (1" for "monster") away from the end of the 2"x2" for a 3/4" bolt and grind it clean.
  4. Place a steel nut over the hole and insure it is clear for a bolt and flush.
  5. Weld the nut in place.
  6. Put a galvanized nut on a 3/4"x2.5" bolt and thread through the welded nut on each side.

Prepare the thin cylinder supports

The thin cylinder supports.
  • Weld some 3/4" ID pipe (3/4" to 1") to the 3" U-channel, in the center. 4-8 good tacks is sufficient.
  • Make 2 6" long 3/4" bolts, by using a nut and 6.25" of threaded rod. See Making Bolts.

Prepare the magnet holder

The magnet holder
  1. Shield the threaded rod (1.25") from spatter by putting 2 nuts on it.
  2. Prop up the 1/4"x1"x(13" for monster)(9" for normal) flatbar so it's level with the center of the threaded rod, ensuring they are parallel.
  3. Weld the two together and remove one nut, leaving one in place. Be careful that it doesn't warp out of square.

Prepare the sensor holders

The normal sensor holders
The monster sensor holder

You will need one later which attaches to the arms, so it's suggested you make two. Its also included in the above materials.

  • For normal, weld 3.5" of rebar to 3.5" of threaded rod at a right angle, taking care to protect the threads from spatter. See image on right.
  • For monster, make one sensor holder like above, and one as shown on the left.

Thread a galvanized nut onto each.