CEB Press/Manufacturing Instructions/Frame with main cylinder

Warning: The documentation for the CEB Press is undergoing a thorough overhaul. CAD models and written directions are presently obsolete. For more information, see Talk:CEB_Press#Documentation_overhaul_in_progress. When the models, specifications and text on this article have been thoroughly reviewed, updated when necessary, and confirmed as whole and accurate, this warning may be removed.

Tools Required

• Torch
• Hole Punch
• Mag Drill
• 1/2” Allen Wrench

Materials Required

Steel

• 6” Heavy (7/16”) U-Channel- 274 1/2”
  • A- (53” for Monster)(43" for normal) (2); Vertical Members
  • B- 20 3/4” (4); Horizontal Members
  • C- 28 3/4” (2); Drawer Members
  • D- (13” for Monster)(9" for normal)(2); Spacers
• For the "Monster" CEB: 6" Light (1/4") U-Channel-41.5"; Cylinder support: 20 3/4" (2)
  • For the normal CEB: 2"x2"x1/4" Angle: 41.5"; Cylinder support: 20 3/4" (2)
• 2"x2"x1/4" Angle: 23"; Dirt Blockers: 6” (2), Cylinder suport: 5.75" (2)
• 1 1/2” DOM Roundstock: 12”; Cylinder Pin: 8 1/2”, Press Foot Filler: 3 1/2”
• 1 1/2” Inter Diameter DOM Tubing: 2 1/2"; Pin Receptors:1 1/4” (2)
• 1”x4” Plate: Lower Press Foot: 10” (1)
• 1”x6” Plate: Upper Press Foot: 12” (1)
• 3” U-Channel: 1.5” (2); Cylinder Spacers
• 1” Pipe: 1.5” (2); Cylinder Spacers
• 1/4”x1” Flatbar: (13” for Monster)(9" for normal) (1); Magnet holder
• 3/8” Rebar: 3.5” (2); Sensor Holder
  • For Optional “Jig”: 6”x12” Tubing: 52”

Nuts and Bolts

• 3/4”x1.5” Bolts (28)
• 3/4” x 2.5” Bolts (6)
• 3/4” Steel Nuts (9)
• 3/4” Galvanized Nuts (40)
• 3/4” Threaded Rod: (20.75” normal ceb) (35.75" monster ceb)
  • Magnet holder: 1.25"
  • Sensor holders: 3.5" (2)
  • Thin cylinder support bolts: 6.25" (2)
  • Monster CEB only: Drawer adjuster bolts: 3.75" (4)

Hydraulics

• 5”x12” 3000 PSI Hydraulic cylinder Buy (1)(This is for the super CEB.)
• 5"x8" 3000 PSI Hydraulic cylinder (1) (This is for the normal CEB)
• 3/4” NPTM to 3/4” NPTM Hydraulic Coupler Elbow(2)
• 3/4” Female Quick Coupler (1)
• 3/4” Male Quick Coupler (1)

Diagrams

The holes in the horizontal members:

The holes in the drawer members:

The lower press foot:

The upper press foot:

(model not completely done)

Pre Assembly

The following can be done in any order, prior to assembly.

Prepare the horizontal members (B), vertical members (A) and the drawer members (C)

The horizontal members only need holes punched. The drawer members need holes punched, and nuts welded to them. The vertical members only need holes torched in them.

Punching

the punched holes

See the diagrams above for hole placement.

• In the horizontal members, the holes are all 3/4" diameter. The holes should be 7/8” in from open side, or 19" apart, and as close as you can get them to the wall of the U-channel(whats this approx? I think it's 1.25. It depends on your punch). There are 4 holes in each piece.
• See the diagrams for the vertical members hole locations, as they vary between the "normal" and "monster" CEB's. They will need to be mirror images, but only one vertical will have the sensor hole.
• In the drawer members, the holes are all 3/4" diameter. The holes should be 4 7/8” in from the long side, or 19" apart, and as close as you can get them to the wall of the U-Channel. There are 4 holes in each piece.

Torching

Vertical Members
The roller slots need to be torched. This is where the rollers bolt to the frame. See diagram.

• The center of them is located 9 5/16" away from the top of the machine, 2 inches in from one side of the U-Channel of the vertical members. This side must be the side which ejects the bricks. Label it so. Keep in mind the vertical members are mirror images of eachother, so don't make the same holes.
• They are to be 1.5" tall, and 5/8" wide.
• Grind away all slag.
  

Drawer Members

• Torch holes for 3/4" bolts as shown in the diagram.
• Grind away the slag.

Welding

Preparing to weld the adjustment nuts

Drawer Members

• Weld 3/4" nuts to the outside of the U channel where the holes are torched.
  • Weld it with a bolt coming thru the other side so it protects the threads and so you know the nut won't get off center.

Prepare the main cylinder

Prepare the press feet

The lower press foot

The upper press foot

1. Mark and magdrill 13/16" holes in 1"x4"x10" plate for the lower press foot. They should be centered shortways, and 1" from the edge to the center of the holes long ways. See the diagram in the diagrams section.
2. Place this centered on the 1"x6"x12" upper press plate and transfer punch the hole locations. Mag-drill these holes, again 13/16".
3. Torch out a 4 1/4" x 2 3/4" rectangular hole in the lower press plate. Grind it smooth.
4. Cut two 2.5" pieces of 3/4" threaded rod.

Warning: The upper press foot NEEDS to be 12" across at the top of it (the side without the bolts sticking up) or there will be "fuzzy edges" on your bricks. See the quality control section on this page for more info.

5. Plug weld the threaded rod into the upper press plate, so that the threaded rod is about 1/4" deep in the plate. Fill the hole with weld, then grind it flush.

Attach them to the cylinder

1. Expand the cylinder so the shaft is fully extended.
   • You can do this either by attaching a hydraulic hose between the ports, and pulling it manually (Requires a lot of muscle!) or by attaching it to some sort of hydraulic motor (We use our power cubes) and using a valve to do it.
   • You should attach quick-couplers to the cylinder for the fabrication process, so later steps like stretching the frame will be easier (you will hard-wire everything later). Attach an the elbow to each port with a quick coupler, one will be male, and the other female. It doesn't matter which.
   • The Prince brand cylinder uses a really large allen wrench for their plugs. If you can't find one, you can make one like we did. media:allentool.jpg
2. Weld a 3.5" piece of 1.5" DOM roundstock inside of the tubing at the end of the shaft.

Warning: Take care that the top of the shaft doesn't get hot; there is a rubber seal between that and the cylinder that will melt and cause leaking if you're not careful. If it starts getting warm, dunk the shaft in water to cool it down.

3. Stand the cylinder up vertically and support it using some sort of rope so it is as close to square vertically as possible. Another option is to prop it up using some sort of solid stand.
   

   The cylinder standing
   .
4. Place the tubing at the end of the shaft inside of the hole in the lower press foot.
5. Insure the cylinder is square to the plate in all directions. See video.

   Hint: Since there is a lip on the cylinder, its hard to tell if its square unless you use two squares, one on the lip and against the other one which rests on the table

5. Tack the lower press foot from all dimensions.
6. Insure the cylinder is still square with it, if not, remove the tacks and fix it.
7. Weld the two together on the top. There will need to be at least 2 layers of weld.

   Warning: Dunk this frequently, even if the shaft is not getting hot! The plate will warp upwards and cause you lots of woe (trust me) if you do not.

8. Gather some press foot support pieces. We used scrap 1" plate torchings, but anything close to a 1"x1"x2.5" piece will do.
9. Weld these as close as you can to the tubing and the press plate
   

   the press foot supports
10. Lower the hanging cylinder and flip it upside down.
11. Fill in the bottom side of it with welds. This will require many layers of welds and many dunks to cool it.
12. Grind it flush with the rest of the plate. A few spots where the welds are below the surface is OK, but the majority of the surface should be level.
13. Put the upper press foot into the lower one and tighten nuts onto the threaded rod.
14. Stand the cylinder up again and insure the press plate is still square with the cylinder.
    • If its not, you'll need to add shims between the two press plates until they are square with the cylinder

Weld the magnet holder nut in place

Where to weld the magnet holder nut

• Weld the nut in the corner of the lower press plate, as shown. This should be on the opposite side of the ports of the cylinder, flush with the press foot, and as near to the corner as you can get it. It can even hang off a bit. Make sure you protect the threads.

Prepare the wide cylinder supports

The "monster" wide cylinder supports

The "normal" wide cylinder supports

1. For the "Monster CEB," punch 3/4" holes in the thin U-Channel in the same manner as with the horizontal members (19" apart, 3/4" diameter)
   • For the "Normal CEB," torch 3/4" holes in the angle for the cylinder supports in the same manner as with the horizontal members.(19" apart, 3/4" diameter)
2. Weld the 2"x2" angle (5.75") centered and squared on one side of the U-Channel.
3. Torch a hole (3/4" for "normal") (1" for "monster") away from the end of the 2"x2" for a 3/4" bolt and grind it clean.
4. Place a steel nut over the hole and insure it is clear for a bolt and flush.
5. Weld the nut in place.

Prepare the thin cylinder supports

The thin cylinder supports.

• Weld some 3/4" ID pipe (3/4" to 1") to the 3" U-channel, in the center. 4-8 good tacks is sufficient.
• Make some 6" long 3/4" bolts, by using a nut and 6.25" of threaded rod. See Making Bolts.

Prepare the magnet holder

The magnet holder

1. Shield the threaded rod (1.25") from spatter by putting 2 nuts on it.
2. Prop up the 1/4"x1"x(13" for monster)(9" for normal) flatbar so it's level with the center of the threaded rod, ensuring they are parallel.
3. Weld the two together and remove the nuts. Be careful that it doesn't warp out of square.

Prepare the sensor holders

The normal sensor holders

The monster sensor holder

You will need one later which attaches to the arms, so it's suggested you make two. Its also included in the above materials.

• For normal, weld 3.5" of rebar to 3.5" of threaded rod at a right angle, taking care to protect the threads from spatter. See image on right.
• For monster, make one sensor holder like above, and one as shown on the left.

Assembly

Step 1: Mag Drill Holes in Verticals.

C-Clamp the vertical pieces to the jig as shown.

Where to clamp the horizontals

The verticals clamped in place with a horizontal clamped to them

Marking the location of the edge of the horizontal member on each side.

1. Gather materials for the “Jig”; this means 6”x12” tubing (52”) and any extra heavy U Channel. If you don't have any laying around, you can use one drawer member, and one spacer on each side.
2. Clamp the vertical pieces to the "Jig" on each end, with extra U channel in between the tubing and the vertical pieces. See the diagram on the right. Insure the two verticals are flush at the top end (the one with the roller slots). The slots and the thin cylinder support holes will need to align in the proper places with the cylinder later.
3. Clamp one horizontal member at each end of the jig. Make sure it is flush with the ends of the verticals.
   • Ensure they are square with the jig by using a large square
   • Clamp using 1 or 2 vise grips on either side.
4. Transfer Punch thru the holes on the horizontal members (B).

Hint: It really helps to label each piece before taking it apart, so that if you end up unbolting the piece later, you'll know exactly where it goes and in what orientation. Mark which side will be the top of the machine.

5. Mark where the edge of the horizontal member is in relation to the vertical members on the vertical member. Use a square to mark the same location on the opposite side. Do this on all four locations. See image.
6. Remove the horizontal members.
7. Use a Mag-Drill to drill 3/4" holes in each spot you transfer punched.
8. Flip the jig over so you have access to drill the other holes. See video for help.
9. Align the other horizontal members with the marks you previously made, and insure once more that they are square.
   • If it is on the mark on each side, but not square, just get it as close as you can to the marks while insuring it is square.
10. Clamp the members in place.
11. Transfer punch them.
12. Remove them.
13. Mag Drill them.
14. Unclamp the verticals from the jig.

Step 2: Assemble top/bottom

Assembling the frame. Note: In this photo, the horizontal isn't flush with the verticals. They should actually all be ending at the same spot

1. Loosely bolt the crossmembers on one side in place.
2. Square them up with the verticals using a large square.
   • If they're not lining up properly square it up on what you labeled top first and tighten those bolts. Then square out the other side and torch out any spots prohibiting the bolts from going thru.
3. Tighten all of those bolts.
4. Flip over the frame.
5. Loosely bolt the crossmembers on this side and square them. Insure the members on the other side are level with this one.
6. Tighten these bolts.

Step 3: Mag-Drill the holes for the wide cylinder supports and drawer members

Clamping the drawer members in their proper location for monster CEB

1. Clamp the drawer member centered, (5" for standard CEB, 7" for the "super" CEB) from the upper cross member. The drawer slots should be on this side, not opposite. Make sure the nuts are facing where the drawer was, look at the picture.
2. Clamp the wide cylinder support directly below it. Make sure you mark where each one goes.
3. Transfer punch thru those holes.
4. Mag-Drill 1" holes at these centers.
5. Flip the frame over and do the same thing on the other side.

Step 4: Tack the spacers

Where to tack the spacers

The spacers clamped to weld

Note: You are only tacking them because when you stretch the frame, it may "move" their location. The spacers need to be contacting the drawer when you are pressing bricks, or the top edges of the bricks will be "fuzzy." See the quality control section for more info.

1. With the frame laid down, and one of the drawer members in place, place the spacers (U-channel, 13" for monster and 9" for normal) on each side. The end of them is to be "d" (7 1/16" for monster)(5 1/16" for normal) away from the upper cross member. Look at the diagram./
2. Insure they are parallel with the U-channel and C-clamp in two places for each.
3. Tack them on this side in 3 spots. You may need to grind this off later, so make sure the tacks aren't longer than 1/4" or so.
4. Flip over the frame and tack the other side.

Step 5: Weld the dirt blockers

The dirt blockers.

1. Put the dirt blockers in place, between the vertical members, so the bottom side of them is about 1/8" above the bottom of the upper crossmembers.
2. Weld the portion inside of the vertical members, taking care to not weld it to the crossmembers.

Step 6: Fit the main cylinder

For more info, see the video. Also, there's a page on Make Projects that has more photos with the same instructions.

1. Lay the frame down, with all of the crossmembers and drawer members in place except the upper crossmember and drawer member which are facing up.
2. Place the assembled cylinder lying down so that the press feet are between the spacers.
   • The cylinder needs to be fully extended for this step. See "Attach them to the cylinder" earlier on this page for how to do this.
   • You need to insure that the vertical height is correct, and that the cylinder is centered. The top of the upper press foot should be (4 3/4" for the regular CEB, and 6 3/4" for the "super" CEB) away from the bottom of the upper crossmembers.

Hint: To make sure the cylinder is centered, use a speed square pressed against the cylinder, and a tape measure to the vertical members as shown.

3. Add a 1/8" spacer (big washers work great) under the cylinder, where it contacts the lower crossmember. This insures the cylinder is centered vertically.
4. Use spray paint to mark the location of the tubing on the crossmember.
5. Place the other upper crossmember in place, putting bolts thru the holes.
6. Use spray paint to mark the location of the tubing on the crossmember.
7. Remove this member and move the cylinder out of the way of the other.
8. Place one of the DOM tubing pieces in the center of each of the sprayed marks and spray paint around this to mark where you will torch.
9. Torch around the outside of the ring left by the DOM tubing.
10. Insure the tubing will go thru each hole. If not, retorch it. Grind off the slag.
11. Lay the cylinder back down and replace the top crossmember. Place the tubing in the torched holes.
12. Insure the pin will go thru the tubing and the cylinder. If not, retorch the holes so that it will.
13. With the pin held in, weld the tubing on the top in place (Youll want to tack it in many places before welding around it.). Then tack it as best you can on the back by hanging the frame off of the table and overhead welding.
14. Remove cylinder and pin, as well as the two crossmembers.
15. Fully weld the tubing on both sides. Jump around a lot to minimize any warping on the tube. Block the insides of the tubing so no spatter goes inside.
16. Replace the crossmembers and the cylinder. Insure the pin still fits and hammer it thru.

Step 7: Fit the thin cylinder spacers

The cylinder spacer installed

1. Verify that the hole for the cylinder spacers is at the right height.
   • Do so by putting the 6" bolts thru those holes and putting the spacer onto it. It should fit on the lip of the cylinder as shown.
   • If not, torch out where needs to be changed.
2. Weld the nuts for them in place on the inside of the frame. Protect the threads.

Step 8: Stretch the frame

See the video.

Where to position the drawer for stretching.

Note: you need a hydraulic pump for this step.

1. Attach the cylinder to a hydraulic pump or power cube and contract the cylinder at least 1".
2. Stand up the frame so the press feet are facing down.
3. Insert the Soil loading drawer on top of the horizontal members so that the press plate is facing the press feet.
   • If the drawer doesn't fit because of the spacers, you welded them too close. Grind them off and weld them a little higher.
4. Position the drawer so that the press plate will be fully contacted by the press feet.
5. Bolt the drawer members on snugly.
6. Use the pump to expand the cylinder as much as possible. The pump will likely stall out.
7. If the pump stalls, turn it back on and expand it fully once more.
8. Expand at least 3 times.
9. Contract it, so you can weld the spacers in. Then detach from the pump.
   

Observations

1. Remove the drawer members
2. Look where the spacers are near the drawer. The spacers should be very close to the drawer.(less than 1/32"). See quality control below if you wonder why.
   • If they are too far, grind off the welds and position them so they are contacting the drawer. Yet again, make sure they are perfectly square with the verticals.
3. Replace one drawer member and lay the frame back down on top of this drawer member.

Step 9: Weld the spacers

Where to weld on the interior

1. Protect the drawer member on the bottom and the press foot so that when you weld, spatter won't stick. You could use some piece of metal or a nonflammable cloth.
2. On the inside, bottom edge, weld the interior of the spacer inwards as far as you can. This should be an inch or more. Do this in all 4 corners accessable from this side of the frame. See the photo.
3. Weld the top 100%.
4. Grind the top weld flush with the U-channel.
5. Loosely bolt the other drawer member in place.
6. Flip over the frame.
7. Remove the other drawer member, and repeat steps 1-5.

Step 10:Fit the drawer members

How to place in the roller guides

placing a cardboard shim

1. Install the Roller guides as shown in the illustration. One side should have a 1/2" spacer, and the other should have a 3/8" spacer plate. Tighten the bolt snug, but so that it can still move up and down.
2. Replace the drawer as if you're going to stretch the cylinder again. Consult the photo above.
   • Make sure the drawer members are loose to do so. You may need to hold them upwards as you push the drawer in.
   • Make sure the rails slide on the roller guides. You can check by putting bolts thru the nuts and making sure they have a lot of contact with the roller guides.
3. Adjust the drawer members horizontally so the roller adjustment nuts welded to them are centered on the roller guides.
4. Finger tighten the bolts on the drawer members, as they are sitting on top of the drawer.
5. Try to slide the drawer in and out.
   • If the drawer gets stuck somewhere, investigate and find where it's hitting.
   • You'll probably need to loosen one of the drawer members and move it up a bit. This can be done uniformly using cardboard shims. See photo.
     • Place the shim between the drawer and the crossmember. Tighten the bolts again. Remove the shims by "jiggling" the drawer.
   • If it's hitting a spacer, grind down the spacer.
   • If the drawer itself is prohibitive in some spots, it wasn't grinded evenly. grind down the high spots.
6. Once the drawer is properly adjusted, tighten these bolts all the way.

Step 11:Install the remaining pieces

Installing magnet holder.

The cylinder spacer installed

1. Install the magnet holder onto the press foot. Make sure it's got an extra nut on it so you can lock its position. The flatbar needs to be parallel with the verticals. Lock it down with the nut.
2. Install the thin cylinder supports by screwing the bolt in with an extra nut on it as shown, and placing the u-channel against the cylinder. Get both of them snug so the cylinder is centered with pressure on each side. Tighten down the nut to lock it.
3. Install the sensor holder so the end of it (the furthest part from bolt) is overlapping the path of the magnet holder.
4. Bolt the wide cylinder supports to the frame. Put a 2" bolt with an extra nut thru the nuts on the top of the supports. Tighten these down so the cylinder is centered with pressure on each side. Tighten down the nut to lock it.

Step 12:Tighten all bolts

• Go back thru the frame and make sure all of the bolts are tight (except the roller guide bolts, that will be done later.)

Step 13: Weld the leg holders to the frame.

Where to weld the leg holders

Position them on the upper horizontal member on the non-ejector side(Opposite side of roller guide holes. Weld them to the horizontal members. Insure they are square in all directions.

Quality Control

• The press foot must fit tightly within the compression chamber. Otherwise, the corners of bricks will not be clean as soil escapes from the compression chamber.
• The compression chamber side spacers need to be even with the other sides of the chamber
• Main cylinder adjusters cannot push against the cylinder in their native position. They are used to adjust the cylinder by the action of the bolt.
• Here is a discussion: